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MV orion | cruise review

75C R U I S E I N T E R N A T I O N A L

MagicalMelanesia

Papua New Guinea is a wild, untamed land full of sorcery, magic and bizarre rites and practices. Some tribes are yet to see their first white face.

Take this scene, add the luxurious expedition ship MV Orion, and you too will fall under the spell

Words and pictures RodeRick eime

cruise review | MV orion

76 C R U I S E I N T E R N A T I O N A L 77C R U I S E I N T E R N A T I O N A L

fFergusson Island, a prehistoric landscape of boiling lakes and the site of the famous Dei Dei hot springs, is just one of the numerous excursions we enjoyed during the expedition ship MV Orion’s 11-night “Highland Cultures” cruise along the “spine” of Papua New Guinea’s mainland. Located between the tropical north coast of Australia and the Indonesian archipelago, Papua New Guinea, or PNG as it’s known, is a mysterious, mountainous land of tropical landscapes and amazing coastal scenery.

“Gonna gonna bobbowarna!” That’s ‘good morning’ in the local language of the Dobu Islanders in the D’Entrecasteaux Group just north of Milne Bay, a dialect that’s just one of over 700 native languages in this incomprehensibly diverse country. “Please!” implores Justin Friend, our larger-than-life expedition leader, “when we get to the springs, stay on the paths. Do not go wandering.” Justin’s pleas may sound melodramatic, but the Dei Dei hot springs are more than just hot – they’re boiling! There’s a local myth that tells of three boys who decided to go for a dip in the crystal clear waters, but were cooked the minute they plunged in.

Magic and myth abound throughout Papua New Guinea and especially within the matrilineal societies of the D’Entrecasteaux Group where it is believed the women are the source of all magic. What little the men have is closely guarded in sacred ‘blokes only’ rituals. Perhaps this explains why the spirit of the hot springs

is called ‘Seuseulina’. The locals believe that after a lovers tiff, this beautiful woman threw herself into the boiling spring, and now, if you toss in rocks and call her name, the geyser spirit will erupt in anger. We all shouted as the rocks flew – it took a few goes, but the geyser sure did erupt!

It’s events like this that put the adventure into adventure cruising and why Papua New Guinea, Australia’s nearest international neighbour (just 150km across the Torres Strait) is rapidly emerging as an exciting and enriching expedition cruise destination. The 106-passenger Orion, conversely, puts the ‘cruise’ in adventure cruising.

Orion is a luxurious expedition vessel, built for all climates (including ice) and fully stabilised. Passengers are accommodated in 53 plush suites and staterooms, surrounded by polished brass and contemporary artworks. But beyond the mere spick-and-span, MV Orion’s superb dining consists of a nightly degustation menu designed by award-winning Serge Dansereau of Sydney’s Bathers Pavilion. Other vessels in the region can’t compete for facilities: a gym, sauna, library, salon, boutique, medical clinic, fine dining room and at least three bars. There’s entertainment with a musical duo, and a programme of lectures and briefings in the theatre to complement the regular excursions that are the highlight of this itinerary. One of these is a short charter flight to Goroka in the highlands to see the 8

Papua new guinea, australia’s nearest international

neighbour is rapidly emerging as an exciting

and enriching expedition cruise destination

ACCOMMODATIONthe standard of the 31 suites and 22 staterooms has earned orion the ranking of the world’s second most luxurious ship of its kind in the berlitz cruise guides. my deck 4 junior suite was almost 220 sq ft and mid-range of the six categories, and included a small lounge. all suites and staterooms have private facilities.

? WhO TrAvels?predominantly australian couples, 50+ in age, but internationals – mainly from the us and the uk – are increasing. You’ll need a certain level of fitness and mobility to make the most of the excursions.

$ CUrreNCYaustralian dollars are used on board with exchange for local png kina available at reasonable rates.

eshOppINgcarvings and shell jewellery are common purchases. in the sepik region especially, the carvings are magnificent and much sought-after by collectors.

ZClIMATecruises to png take place in march and april, when the weather is warm, humid and has occasional light showers. the months of december and january are just too wet and very hot.

geTTINg ArOUNDmost shore transportation is pre-organised with carefully chosen local minibus operators. taxis are only available in the few larger towns, otherwise walking is popular. travelling alone in port moresby is not recommended, and in the little villages it’s best to have a local guide who can introduce you as you wander around.

PREVIOUS PAGE Dobu Island, part of the D’Entrecasteaux Islands. THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT Colourful local wildlife. BELOW A remote island village in the Solomon Sea. BOTTOM, CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT Men of Tami Island perform a sacred dance; villages wade out to greet arrivals; Zodiacs go ashore for excursions; an offering of green coconut juice.

PA P U A n E W G U I n E A

A U S T R A L I A

Coral Sea

the sepik rivermadang

kwato

rabaul

tami islands

cairns

d’entrecasteaux islands

Fergusson island

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‘mud men’ – fearsome warriors who cake their faces in mud to enhance their terrifying appearance.

The way local visits are conducted is a real credit to Orion. Local protocols are respected, customs followed, and all the members of the villages welcomed us with genuine and heartfelt hospitality – the sort that is disappearing in our busy cosmopolitan world.

Tami Island (near Finschhafen) and the village of Watam, near the mouth of the mighty Sepik River demonstrate a special bond between Orion and the local communities. To smooth the path, Justin (who speaks fluent pidgin) had previously submitted himself to a chief ’s initiation ceremony and photos of him dressed in the local regalia were gleefully waved about by his ‘new’ family, much to our amusement.

And Orion engages wholeheartedly in the humanitarian aspects of the journey too. Most vessels visiting Papua New Guinea leave valuable resources for the local communities such as school materials, books, medical supplies, clothing and hand tools. Orion’s managing director, Sarina Bratton, dedicated a new schoolhouse, built at Watam, exclusively from Orion corporate and passenger support.

Our itinerary culminated at the volcano-ravaged port of Rabaul. This was my third visit to Rabaul and despite a new covered market being built, little else had changed. The constant downpour of gritty volcanic ash from Mt Tavurvur offers little incentive to clean up, but here the WWII history, in the form of museums and memorials, is very enlightening.

Orion Expedition Cruises burst onto the local scene some four years ago – about the same time as rival operators, but was able to nudge ahead by virtue of the ship’s superior appointments and unchallenged ocean-going ability. She offers guests a level of luxury and on-board facilities in line with superior cruise ships, while still maintaining an expedition ‘persona’. Having said that, her size (100m) and tonnage (4000GRT) hinders her slightly and she is

We sAIleD WITh

OriOn ExpEditiOn CruisEsVessel MV OrionRating berlitz 4.5*duRation 11 nightsincludes all meals and ship facilities. some tours and activities at extra cost.to book Visit www.orionexpeditions.com

itineRaRY includesdaY 1 Depart CairnsdaY 2 At Seatime to explore the ship and introductory lectures.daY 3 Alotau, Milne Bayaccess to alotau township and the colourful markets. optional tours include WWii relics and history.

daY 4 Samarai and Kwato Islandstransfer ashore by Zodiac and then enjoy escorted walking tours of these historic islands.daY 5 D’Entrecasteaux Islands included tour to the dei dei Hot springs on Fergusson island.daY 6 Tufi Harbourone of png’s highlights.optional tours include trekking, diving and a village experience.daY 7 Tami Islandspend an excellent day with the villagers of this little community. Walk with orion’s botanist to inspect native produce gardens.

daY 8 Madangeither included, self-guided or optional tours in and around the town. diving on an intact b-25 bomber wreck in the harbour.daY 9 Sepik RiverFascinating village visit to Watam – perhaps the climax of the itinerary. Zodiac cruising around the mouth of the sepik.daY 10 At Sealectures and relaxation.daY 11 Rabaulincluded, self-guided or optional tours of this tropical port town, surrounded by six volcanoes.daY 12 Depart Rabaul to cairns airport.

orion engages wholeheartedly in the humanitarian aspects of the journey

ZClIMATethe cruise season begins in may, when it can still be cold and rainy. days are long (the ‘white nights’) in june and

july. temperatures can rise to 30ºc in st petersburg and moscow in august. late september is chilly.

FAR LEFT Trekking to the famous Dei Dei hot springs on Fergusson Island. LEFT A man from Tufi in a magnificent local headdress. BELOW Witnessing the boiling springs in action.

unable to fully navigate the river systems the smaller vessels can. A lot of the landings are ‘wet’, meaning you are transported from ship to shore (you may have to wade the last few steps) by rigid inflatable Zodiac boats. While certainly robust and versatile, the boats sit low in the water so you should be prepared for some spray.

If you’re planning a voyage to Papua New Guinea, and I hope you are, MV Orion offers a comfortable and luxurious shipboard experience. For me, a highlight was the simply spectacular dragon dance that was put on by the locals in the village of Watam.

,eATINg OUTmain meals are eaten on board, but some villages will offer traditional snacks like sago, yams, pineapple and banana, although these tend to be more demonstrations of hospitality as opposed to proper meals. green coconut juice is commonly offered to guests!