mOthEr rOck Mail Archive, September 1997 - August 1998

mOthEr rOck Mail Archives mOthEr rOck Magazine debuted mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California, in September 1997. mOthEr rOck Mail was distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wanted it, at irregular intervals.

By the time the publication was killed off in late August, 1998, mOthEr rOck Mail was read by nearly 1,000 climbers in Southern California and beyond. While the E-mail newsletter is no longer published, you can still browse past issues of mOthEr rOck Mail…if you really want to. Believe it or not, there’s still some useful information in these, more than a decade later.

[Note that original mailing addresses, email addresses, and web addresses are not necessarily still valid. In other words, don’t send a check for a guidebook listed in these emails.]

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #97-01, 06-Sep-97 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________

News and information about climbing in Southern California

____________________ Issue #97-01 ____________________

06-Sep-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail! CACTUS PRICKS TO PLAY AT SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — Just one more reason why you should participate. HIGH DESERT UPDATE — Access still denied. NEW GUIDEBOOK AVAILABLE — A guide to new and obscure areas and routes at 12 locations in Southern California.

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail, a new E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about climbing in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. Questions? Comments? Have some news of information you’d like to share with the community? Would you like to be removed from this list? Just want to tell us what a great idea this is, and how much you like it? If so, send E-mail to [email protected]

CACTUS PRICKS TO PLAY AT SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST

The Joshua Tree-based Cactus Pricks, everybody’s favorite climbing band, have signed on to play the 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest on October 4th, 1997. The climbing contest and trash clean-up will take place from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with free dinner for all participants at 6:00 p.m. The Cactus Pricks are scheduled to hit the stage at 7:30 p.m.

Meanwhile, preparations continue for what promises to be THE Southern California climbing event of the year. After the Forest Service initially denied the permit and the Boulderfest was cancelled, the Rim of the World Climbing Club swung into action and convinced the Forest Service that climbers do much more good than bad for the area.

More than 100 new routes have gone up at Snow Valley in the last several months, and many of them will be in the Contest Guide this year. Participants will also have an opportunity to score extra “points” for trash collected.

If you have not already visited the Official 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest Web site, make sure to check it out:

==> http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf/index.html

If you are thinking about registering, please don’t delay! The deadline for entries is September 27th, 1997. Anyone wishing to register after this date will have to do it on-site at 9:00 a.m. the day of the event, and it will cost them an extra $10.

mOthEr rOck Magazine will send you a copy of the entry form. Simply send a self addressed, stamped envelope to:

mOthEr rOck Magazine P.O. Box 7951 Redlands, CA 92375-1151

HIGH DESERT UPDATE

The standoff in the High Desert continues. Randy Vogel recently updated mOthEr rOck with the latest news. “I spoke to one of owner several weeks ago. He has been unable to put together a plan that will allow him to charge for climbing, yet avoid liability. He is exploring several different ideas, but nothing is certain.”

Meanwhile, there are plenty of places to climb, so don’t crash the place and encourage the owners of the property to continue with their outrageous plans to charge for climbing. As Randy said, “The more time the area is closed and the owners realize that nobody is rushing forward to shower them with money to save this area, the better. As fun as the area is, it is really not that important of an area regionally. When more moderate routes are put up at New Jack City, most attention will shift to it.” Plus, there are many climbs still open in the High Desert Area that do not lie on private property. And a few miles away lies Margaritaville, with even more routes than High Desert…

NEW GUIDEBOOK AVAILABLE

mOthEr rOck Press recently released “The Best of mOthEr rOck, Volume 1″–a guide to new and obscure areas and routes at 12 locations in Southern California. The information is collected from past issues of mOthEr rOck magazine, and is generally available nowhere else.

The guide includes information about Wheeler Gorge Narrows, Potrero John Wall, Lower San Ysidro Canyon, The Fire Crags, Old L.A. Zoo, Falling Rock Canyon, Mormon Rocks, Box Springs, Mentone Boulders, Palm Springs Domes, DMZ, Shady Cove, and new routes at Joshua Tree. The information was contributed by Reese Martin, Fritz Lowrey, Matt Artz, Brandon Thau, Aaron Rough, Steve Parker, and Chris Miller.

http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf/index.html

The guide has been available since late August, and is priced at only $6 including shipping (U.S.). To order your copy, send $6 to

mOthEr rOck Press P.O. Box 7951 Redlands, CA 92375-1151


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-02 ____________________

14-Sep-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-02! HUECO WHO? — The Happy Boulders teaser topo on-line. SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — Fill out the on-line entry form NOW! SECRET PHOTO — Your first glimpse at a new area we’ll cover in more detail in a future issue of mOthEr rOck magazine. FINALLY! — New guide to Box Springs sport climbing available. REI NORTHRIDGE — Beginner climbing contest Nov. 15th. THE ROCK GYM — Crash their first anniversary party on Sept. 26th.

INTRODUCTION Welcome to the second issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, a new E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 600 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail! Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like to be removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to: [email protected] HUECO WHO? The Happy Boulders, near Bishop, California, have been talked about for years, but never like they have recently. The upcoming guidebook to the area, currently being prepared by Vertical Brain Publications, promises to be a big seller, and give the area the exposure it deserves. Meanwhile, for those (like mOthEr rOck) who can’t wait, Fish and Vertical Brain are giving us a teaser on the Web. Point your browser to the following URL, where they’ve posted topos and route information for the huge “Paco the Weasel Boulder” at The Happy Boulders.

mailto:[email protected]

==> http://www.climbnet.com/fish/sbm.html SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — FILL OUT THE ENTRY FORM! The 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest is coming up fast–it will take place on October 4th, 1997. The climbing contest and trash clean-up will take place from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with free dinner for all participants at 6:00 p.m. Everybody’s favorite climbing band, the Cactus Pricks, are scheduled to hit the stage at 7:30 p.m. You can pick an entry form up at local climbing shops, or fill out the handy on-line entry form that follows: ——————————————————— E N T R Y F O R M Must be completely filled in and accompanied by payment to ensure entry.

Name:____________________________ Address:__________________________ City:_____________________________ State:________ ZIP Code:____________ Home Phone #(____) ____-________ Daytime Phone #(____) ____-________ Date of Birth _____/_____/19____

Gender (circle one): Male Female Shirt Size (circle one): S M L XL

Mail Completed Form with $40 Payment Before Sept. 27th, 1997 to:

ROWCC P.O. Box 3283 Blue Jay, CA 92317 ——————————————————— What’s Snow Valley like? Visit the Official 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest Web site and check out the photo gallery: ==> http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf/index.html The Web site has not been updated for a while, but within the next few days will be updated to include directions, a tentative schedule of events, age categories, and much more.

http://www.climbnet.com/fish/sbm.html

http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf/index.html

SECRET PHOTO — FIRST GLIMPSE AT NEW SO CAL AREA Another mOthEr rOck exclusive! Point your Web browser at the following URL, and get your first glimpse at a new hard-core sport climbing area being developed in So Cal: ==> http://members.aol.com/motherrock/secretphoto.html We can’t tell you much, but we will tell you that in addition to the route in the way-cool photo (5.13c) and a number of other high numbers routes, there are also routes there for moderate climbers–for example, a 5.10a/b with 3 bolts, a 5.10c/d with 4 bolts, a few more in the 5.9 to 5.10b range, and a wall with several 5.8 to 5.10 toprope routes. As soon as the area is completed, the developers have promised a topo…so look for it exclusively in mOthEr rOck magazine some time in the next few months! In the mean time, don’t ask, we’re sworn to secrecy, no matter how much beer you try to bribe us with…even if it is the kind we like (see the Brew of the Month articles in past issues if you want to know what kind of beer not to try to bribe us with). FINALLY! — NEW GUIDE TO BOX SPRINGS AVAILABLE First announced in May 1997, mOthEr rOck’s Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide by Aaron Rough is finally here! mOthEr rOck’s face is a little red because of the delay, but the end product was well worth the wait. Special thanks to those folks who ordered the guide a couple of months ago, and waited patiently for the final guide to be completed. This great new area is going to be real popular this Fall when it starts to cool down. Located a few miles away from Mt. Rubidoux and the University of California-Riverside, the area features about 40 routes, with more in development. It’s a 10-15 minute approach, and there’s a little bit of everything–bouldering, trad lead, TR, two-pitch climbs. But the biggest attraction will be the variety of short, moderate bolted lines. The main wall features 26 routes, most of them bolted lines about 25-35 feet long, and the majority of problems in the 5.9 to 5.10d range. If you’re a moderate climber who likes short sport routes, it’s the ideal place to hone your sport climbing skills this Fall/Winter/Spring. The guide is available only from mOthEr rOck right now, but may be coming to a local climbing shop near you some time soon (check out Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree in a few days, and other shops soon too). The guide is priced at only $6 including shipping (U.S.). To order your copy today, send $6 to: mOthEr rOck P.O. Box 7951 Redlands, CA 92375-1151 REI NORTHRIDGE — BEGINNER CLIMBING CONTEST

http://members.aol.com/motherrock/secretphoto.html

REI has their 6th annual beginners climbing competition coming up on November 15th. It’s geared for a climber whose onsight level is no higher than 5.11a. There will be lots of climbing and lots of prizes, as usual. REI Northridge 6th Annual Climbing Competition When: Sat Nov 15th Where: REI Northridge What: A low-key climbing competition designed to bring climbers together and have lots of fun. Your onsight level cannot be higher than 5.11a Cost: $25.00 before Oct. 25th, $35.00 on or after the 25th. For more info call 818-709-5021, or E-mail [email protected] THE ROCK GYM — FIRST ANNIVERSARY PARTY It is hard to believe, but THE ROCK GYM in Long Beach has already been open for more than a year and is still growing strong. It’s time to celebrate (only 56 days late). So on September 26th, from 7:00 p.m. until everyone goes home, THE ROCK GYM will be hosting a night of events and activities. Plans for the evening include: -Demos by Industry Manufacturers -Mini Comp -Door Prizes -Free Food -LIVE MUSIC by The Hutchinsons -Gear Swap…bring your old gear! While you’re at the party, be sure to check out the NEW 35 degree training wall and Campus Board. For more information, call THE ROCK GYM at 562-983-5500, or E-mail them at [email protected].




______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-03 ____________________

23-Sep-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-03! THE EASTERN SIERRA — Does it Get Any Better than This? ALL ALONG THE WATCHTOWER — Sequoia National Park CASTLE ROCK SPIRES — New Off-Width Route VOODOO DOME — New Trail Planned SELF RESCUE COURSE OFFERED — October 11th-12th, 1997 EASTERN SIERRA BOULDERING GUIDE — Coming Along MIXED UP — New Route at Corte Madera 1997 SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — There’s Still Time to Enter!

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the third issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, a new E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 600 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail! Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like to be removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to: [email protected] THE EASTERN SIERRA — mOthEr rOck Road Trip mOthEr rOckers Geoff Wade, Reese Martin, and Matt Artz just returned from three days in the Eastern Sierra…and boy are our arms tired! Rick’s Rocks, Tall Boys, the fabulous Clark Canyon, and the classic Buttermilks all lived up to the amazing reputation of the Eastern Sierra. The weather was great–low 20’s at night with ideal temperatures in the day. And here’s a little beta to make your trip even better than ours: when in Bishop, avoid the Hot Turkey Sandwich at the Bishop Grill…what exactly made that gravy


fluorescent yellow, anyway???? ALL ALONG THE WATCHTOWER — Sequoia National Park In early September, on the Watch Tower in Sequoia National Park, Richard Leversee, Scott Cosgrove, and Jim Zellers attempted to finish ”Stopwatch,” a route started in 1986 by Leversee, Carl McConachie, and Jay Smith. The route starts on the Northeast Arete (the Gallen Rowell Route, V 5.8 A3) and follows the first two pitches. It goes for two pitches independently at 5.11 and comes to what Leversee described as a “thin, flared, flakey 5.13+ horror story of a crack,” and they decided to bag any further effort at going higher. The four pitches of climbing that lead up the unclimbable obstacle are “very good,” however, and have sturdy 3/8 inch bolt anchors for rappel to the ground. CASTLE ROCK SPIRES — New Off-Width Route In June, Richard Leversee, Kevin Daniels, and Dave Nettle braved the four hour pump through difficult trail finding, ticks, and monster Poison Oak that leads to the Castle Rock Spires, in the Sequoia National Park. They established a new 5.10c R off-width route on the North face of the Fin. Leversee noted that they used sixty meter ropes, and said that the route is nowhere near the quality of the routes on the West face or those on the spire itself. The route starts at the East edge of the arete that devides the North face from the East, and every pitch is wide. To descend, use Silver Lining. Reference: Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia Kings Canyon. (Contributed by Patrick Paul) VOODOO DOME — New Trail Planned The Southern Sierra Climbers’ Association is currently putting together a plan with the Forest Service to build a new trail from the Lewis Camp road to the massive Voodoo Dome at the East end of the Needles. The trail will facilitate easier access to the dome while reducing the erosion and impact on plant life that climber use is currently having on the area. A future volunteer work party is planned. (Contributed by Patrick Paul) SELF RESCUE COURSE OFFERED — October 11th-12th, 1997 A Taste For Adventure, based in Bishop in the Eastern Sierra, is teaching a self rescue course the weekend of October 11-12, 1997. The course is very comprehensive, covering belay escape, ascending/descending ropes, rapping with an injured person, and haul systems. The cost is $135, which doesn’t include lodging or food. Class size will be around six. For more information, E-mail Todd Vogel ([email protected]). EASTERN SIERRA BOULDERING GUIDE — Coming Along Vertical Brain’s new Eastside Bouldering Guide is going well. Mick Ryan is documenting the Volcanic Tablelands, which includes the Happy Boulders (aka Boulder Farm), and Tommy Klinefelter is doing the Buttermilk Country–which includes a lot more than just the Peabodys. Mick and Tommy are jointly covering the Mammoth area.


Tommy has an embryonic bouldering page up on the Web; check it out at ==> http://www.bouldering.com MIXED UP — New Route at Corte Madera Ted Doughty from down San Diego way has written an article about a new multi-pitch route at Corte Madera for the next issue of mOthEr rOck magazine. Called Mixed Up, the route is 5.10, A2+. Look for it in Issue #9, which will automatically be mailed to paid subscribers around November 1st, 1997. 1997 SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — THERE’S STILL TIME! There’s still time to enter the So Cal Climbing event of the year–the 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest–but the deadline is coming up fast. So do the smart thing and fill out the handy on-line entry form that follows: ——————————————————— E N T R Y F O R M Must be completely filled in and accompanied by payment to ensure entry.

Name:____________________________ Address:__________________________ City:_____________________________ State:________ ZIP Code:____________ Home Phone #(____) ____-________ Daytime Phone #(____) ____-________ Date of Birth _____/_____/19____

Gender (circle one): Male Female Shirt Size (circle one): S M L XL

Mail Completed Form with $40 Payment Before Sept. 27th, 1997 to:

ROWCC P.O. Box 3283 Blue Jay, CA 92317 ——————————————————— Remember, the event will take place on October 4th, 1997. The climbing contest and trash clean-up will take place from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with free dinner for all participants at 6:00 p.m. Everybody’s favorite climbing band, the Cactus Pricks, are scheduled to hit the stage at 7:30 p.m.

For directions and other information, be sure to visit the official 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest Web site at ==> http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf

http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-04 ____________________

29-Sep-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-04! HANGAR 18 — New Climbing Gym in Upland Opening Soon! KINGS CANYON — New Long Route on Bubbs Creek Wall. MILL CREEK BOULDER — New Boulder With 25+ Routes. RIM OF THE WORLD CLIMBING CLUB — Group Site in Joshua Tree. 1997 SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — Directions!

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, a new E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 600 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail!

Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like to be removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to [email protected]

HANGAR 18 — New Climbing Gym in Upland !

Local climbers are busy building a new climbing gym in the Upland area, and it’s scheduled to open on January 1st, 1998. Called “Hangar 18,” the gym will feature a huge bouldering/training area. More details will follow soon in a future issue of mOthEr rOck Mail….

KINGS CANYON — New Route on Bubbs Creek Wall

Brandon Thau and Dave Nettle just got back from an eight day trip into Kings Canyon with pack mules and big wall gear. They established a new route on Bubbs Creek Wall,


one of the big three walls in the Sierras. The new route is called Samarai Warriors, V 5.11- A1. It uses the first two pitches of Crystal Bonzai, the next two and a half pitches of Samarai Wind, and then goes independent to the top. One pendulum and 10-12 bathooks are required. It’s 14 pitches, with a 200 foot rope mandatory. The first half is awesome, improbable crack climbing, and the second part is a little bit of bathooking and face climbing. The first ascent took four days, and two nights in a portaledge. Brandon says it’s definately one of the better routes he’s done in the backcountry, and a unique route for the Sierras.

MILL CREEK BOULDER — 25+ Routes

There’s a new boulder in town, and it’s chock full-o-routes. Located in the Mill Creek Wash a few miles away from the Mentone Boulders at the base of the San Bernardino Mountains, this boulder has been developed for a couple of years, but is only now getting a little bit of attention.

It’s only one boulder, but it’s big, it’s pretty tall, and holds a variety of different types of routes. Intermediate faces, hard overhanging gymnastic routes, and easier tall slabby routes. A strange conglomerate rock type that even features a few pockets here and there.

To get there, ask around…or subscribe to mOthEr rOck magazine, because we’ll have a topo and directions in Issue #9 (November/December 1997).

RIM OF THE WORLD CLIMBING CLUB — Joshua Tree in November

The Rim of the World Climbing Club (ROWCC) has reserved a group site in Joshua Tree in November. ROWCC members can look forward to three days of climbing, fun, and lies around the campfire.

The Rim of the World Climbing Club was founded in 1989 and is dedicated to preserving climbing resources in the San Bernardino Mountains. ROWCC Club members are very active in local access issues and development of new climbing resources. The ROWCC is probably best known as the sponsor of the Snow Valley Boulderfest and Trash Clean-Up, and uses proceeds from such events to support climbing causes throughout the San Bernardino Mountains. The ROWCC sponsors outings for members at least once a month, where they rent a group campsite and members stay for free. Recent ROWCC outings have included Owens River Gorge, Zion, Keller Peak, Southern Yosemite, Courtright Reservoir, The Palisades, and Malibu Creek. The ROWCC also publishes a bi-monthly newsletter called “What’s the Beta.” For more information about becoming a member of the ROWCC, please write to: ROWCC, P.O. Box 3283, Blue Jay, CA 92317.

1997 SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — DIRECTIONS

The deadline for pre-registration for the 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest has passed…but there is still space available for on-site registration the day of the event!

To get there, from Interstate 10, drive north on Route 30, then north on State Highway 330 towards Running Springs. From Running Springs, take Highway 18 east approximately five miles to Snow Valley Ski Resort. Registration will take place at the Snow Valley Ski Resort main lodge. Remember, the event will take place on October 4th, 1997. The climbing contest and trash clean-up will take place from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with free dinner for all participants at 6:00 p.m. Everybody’s favorite climbing band, the Cactus Pricks, are scheduled to hit the stage at 7:30 p.m. The bar will be open, Tom Evans will be giving a slide show, and rumor has it that Snow Valley Ski Resort recently built an artificial climbing wall on the premises….

***** IF YOU ARE NOT PRE-REGISTERED BUT ARE GOING TO ***** ***** REGISTER ON SITE, PLEASE BE THERE BY 9:00 A.M. ON ***** ***** SATURDAY MORNING *****

For camping and other information, be sure to visit the official 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest Web site at

==> http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf

mOthEr rOck will of course be on hand for the event…some of us will be climbing, some of us will be judging, and hopefully at least one of us will be taking photos and gathering information for a big article on the Boulderfest in the November/December issue of mOthEr rOck magazine.

http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #97-05, 12-Oct-97 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-05 ____________________

12-Oct-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-05! 1997 SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — What a Day! SOUTH BAY — Indoor Bouldering Cave HANGAR 18 — More on the New Climbing Gym in Upland! KINGS CANYON — Moderate Topropes

INTRODUCTION


Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like your name to be added to or removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to: [email protected]

1997 SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — What a Day!

After many months of planning and hard work, the 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest came off without a hitch on Saturday, October 4th, 1997. 77 climbers had pre-registered, and another 25 to 30 registered on-site, bringing the total to more than 100! Add to that the 25 or more volunteers, and the countless friends and family who came along just to watch, and there were a lot of people up there!

Participants were given a high-quality guidebook with maps and detailed beta for each of the 272 problems. Trails were well-marked, and each boulder featured an orange cone with the numbers of the problems posted on it. Each clump of boulders had a full-time

volunteer nearby, who had been trained on the specifics of each problem. Four wandering judges, who were familiar with every problem in the entire guidebook, were available by radio to resolve any issues. By 10 a.m., the contestants had left the Snow Valley Ski Resort parking lot, and got there first glimpse of the boulders–Area #1, the Little Green Valley Boulders. Many folks started climbing here, while others, to avoid the crowds, went further back to The Block, The Brain, or over to Snow Valley West, to areas like The Incognito Boulders, The Jalapeno Cracks, and The Anthill Boulders.

As they day wore on, muscles became sore, the rough Snow Valley rock took its toll on fingers and knees, and people gradually began to filter out to the outlying areas like Call of the West and The Vampire Boulder. By the time the horn sounded at 4 p.m., everyone was spent, but they were all still smiling.

16-year-old Matt Hoch took first place in the Male division with 4,260 points, and 21-year-old Lisa Rands topped the Female division with 1,330 points. Jon Gibson won the coveted Crackmaster award with 620 points just on crack problems, barely edging out Brandon Thau, who had 615 points on crack problems.

The party after the event was a lot of fun. We watched climbing videos at the bar, cheered on the winners at the awards ceremony, and danced to the music played by the Cactus Pricks. It was a long day, but everyone seemed to be saying the same thing: it was an AWESOME event, and they’d be back for sure next year.

And speaking of next year, the Rim of the World Climbing Club is already putting together plans for the 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest! The goals: more people, more organized, and even more fun than this year. Stay tuned: mOthEr rOck will give you all the details as they become available!

NEW BOULDERING CAVE IN THE SOUTH BAY

There’s a small bouldering cave on the Palos Verdes Peninsula. Operated by Dapplegray Gymnastics, it features a variety of vertical and traverse routes. It’s a great place for a quick workout if you don’t have time to get to one of the larger gyms in the SouthBay. The address is 3011 Palos Verdes Drive North, in Rolling Hills Estates. Their phone number is 310-377-2799, and the gym is owned and operated by Carl Cruz. (Contributed by Fred Willis)

HANGAR 18 — New Climbing Gym in Upland !

While at the Snow Valley Boulderfest last weekend, mOthEr rOck got a chance to talk to Zack Shields, co-owner of Hangar 18, the new climbing gym in Upland scheduled to open on January 1st, 1998. The gym will feature more than 10,000 square feet of textured climbing surface, with two massive lead caves, steep sport climbs up to 60 feet tall, an assortment of cracks, and tons of bouldering designed by hard core boulderers like Zack.

Conveniently located across the street from a Metrolink station, Hangar 18 will also feature a fully stocked pro shop, equipment rentals, classes, and private instruction. Hangar 18 is offering no initiation fee for the first 100 members. For more information, call the Hangar 18 hotline at 909-931-5991.

KINGS CANYON — Moderate Topropes

This summer, Amy Lobsinger and her brother Josh climbed two terrific routes at Roaring River Falls in Cedar Grove, Kings Canyon National Park. This area is not in the guidebook, but offered them two great climbs. They toproped off a tree, then rapelled down right beside the waterfall (on the opposite side of the river from the tourist viewing area). The first climb is probably 5.9-, and is awesome because of the surroundings as well as the aspects of the climb. A little to the right of the 5.9- is an arete that is probably 5.6. The climbs are beautiful, easily accessible, and great for beginners! Look for a photo of Amy on the arete route in the next issues of mOthEr rOck magazine. (Contributed by Amy Lobsinger)

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #97-06, 04-Nov-97 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-06 ____________________

04-Nov-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-06! STONEY POINT CLEANUP — Sunday, November 9th! JOSHUA TREE — On-Line Climbing Database! SUBSCRIBE TO MOTHER ROCK MAGAZINE — Issue #9 (Nov./Dec. 1997) is NOW AVAILABLE! MOTHER ROCK WEB SITE — Update on the Way! MOTHER ROCK PRESS — New Guidebooks Coming Soon!

INTRODUCTION



STONEY POINT CLEANUP — Sunday, November 9th

Los Angeles, California. Home to 3,536,891 people. Also home to one of the most famous climbing areas in the country: Stoney Point.

After decades of providing excellent rock climbing for thousands of local climbers, Stoney Point has taken a beating. UCLA Outdoor Adventures would like to help us all give back to the earth, to help lighten the depth of the footprints, and to save this land for thousands more.


Please join us on Sunday, November 9th, 1997, starting at 9 a.m. The day will be filled a guest speaker; picking up trash, bottles, and glass; constructing a central trail from the 118; possible trail reclamation; Five.Ten climbing shoe demo; giveaways; and refreshments.

John Long, one of Stoney’s first great climbers, will be there to share his wisdom and history. Five.Ten will keep everyone entertained with a shoe demo. And numerous sponsors share our concerns and have agreed to offer extensive support for this event in the form of giveaways and refreshments. Sponsors include mOthEr rOck Magazine, Five.Ten, JRAT, Black Diamond, The Access Fund, Adventure 16, Rockreation, Patagonia, Climbing Magazine, Rock & Ice Magazine, Royal Robbins Outdoor Clothing, Powerbar, and Gatorade.

For more information, please call 310-206-1252.

JOSHUA TREE — On-Line Climbing Database!

Charles Foster has developed a very popular database of almost 1,000 Joshua Tree routes that can be queried by rating, location, name, and type (crack vs. face, etc.). He also has included notes on camping at Joshua Tree, and an interactive weather forecast interface. It can all be found at

=====>>>>> http://www.flash.net/~cfoster2/climbing/trad.html

http://www.flash.net/%7Ecfoster2/climbing/trad.html


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-07 ____________________

09-Nov-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-07! JOSHUA TREE — Draft Management Plan Released JOSHUA TREE — The Season Begins! BLACK MOUNATIN — A Productive Visit BOX SPRINGS — More New Routes on the Way! SNOW VALLEY — 1997 Boulderfest Aftermath

INTRODUCTION



JOSHUA TREE — Draft Management Plan Released

The National Park Service released the Joshua Tree Draft Management Plan on November 1st. A number of points in this draft plan are troublesome. All new and replacement bolting is proposed to be banned in all Wilderness Areas (Wonderland, Saddle Rocks, Geology Tour Road, Split Rocks, OZ, Queen Mountain, etc.) Existing routes with bolts would eventually be “eliminated” through attrition. In non-wilderness areas, new routes with bolts will be allowed by permit only (a 3-6 month approval process)! Colored chalk (which stains the rock) would be mandated!


In the Draft Plan, horses are allowed to travel cross-country through corridors in the wilderness, but bolting is declared illegal under the Wilderness Act. This is something no other National Park Service unit has ever determined or even though to be a reasonable interpretation of the Wilderness Act. (Note: in Yosemite, all bolts are in Wilderness areas).

Three public meetings are scheduled. In addition to writing to the park to get a copy of the Draft Plan, CLIMBERS SHOULD PLAN ON PACKING THESE PUBLIC HEARINGS AND SPEAKING OUT! The first meeting is November 20th, 1997 at the Santa Monica National Recreation Area headquarters in Agoura Hills. Other hearings are scheduled for December in Palm Desert, and January in Joshua Tree. IT IS VITAL THAT WE GET THE WORD OUT! PACK THE MEETINGS! CALL AND WRITE ABOUT THE DRAFT PLAN! (Contributed by Randy Vogel/The Access Fund) JOSHUA TREE — The Season Begins! Speaking of Josh, the season has begun. mOthEr rOck talked to Chris Miller at Nomad Ventures on Friday. Chris said the things are picking up out there, and the weather is ideal–shorts and t-shirt weather, not too hot, and not too cold. Get out there! BLACK MOUNATIN — A Productive Visit Last week, Wills Young and James March had a productive visit to Black Mountain. Wills and James both put up a couple of hard problems, and found many futuristic lines. Mr. Young got the second ascents of many of the new lines Mr. March put up, including “Little Shanghai,” V7/8, an ultra-classic double-sided arete, and the campusy, dynamic “Up, Up, and Away,” V6, both in new areas of the Boulder Basin Campground. (Contributed by James March) BOX SPRINGS — More New Routes on the Way! Things are looking REALLY good out at Box Springs near Riverside–the weather is finally cooling off, making climbing possible again, and several new routes have gone up. Box Springs guidebook author Aaron Rough discovered a new wall about a week ago. At about 40 to 50 feet tall and vertical to slightly overhung, it promises to be the best wall to date in the area. At least 6 new lines have been identified, one being a fantastic 40 foot finger to hand crack. In other Box Springs news, several new routes are going up on the Main Wall, and Matt Hoch is reportedly working on a project on the AIDS Wall that is going to be VERY hard. (Contributed by Aaron Rough)

SNOW VALLEY — 1997 Boulderfest Aftermath It’s been five weeks since the successful 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest was held, and it’s already snowed at least twice at Snow Valley since then…but that hasn’t stopped climbing and development. Yesterday at Snow Valley, it was a little chilly in the shade, but generally great weather for climbing. On most recent days, the weather has been perfect in the middle of the day, with temperatures dropping into the low 50’s to high 40’s in the late afternoon. Several new areas have been discovered since the Boulderfest, and many areas are seeing new development. More than 50 new problems have been established there in the last five weeks–the majority being moderates, on previously overlooked boulders in the popular Parking Lot Boulders, Anthill Boulders, and East Side Pebbles areas of Snow Valley West.


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-08 ____________________

23-Nov-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-08! SURVEY — Best So Cal Finger Crack? EL NINO — New Route on Moro Rock CLIMBER’S ALERT — Restrictions Proposed for Joshua Tree MOTHER ROCK WEB SITE — FINALLY Updated! GREATOUTDOORS.COM — New Web Site for “Lifestyle Sports” GEOCITIES — Free Web Sites for Climbers! MOTHER ROCK PRESS — Five Local Guidebooks Currently Available

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, a new E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 700 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail! Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like your name to be added to or removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to: [email protected]

mOthEr rOck SURVEY — Best So Cal Finger Crack?

mOthEr rOck is writing an article on the Best Finger Crack in So Cal, for an upcoming issue of the magazine. What’s your favorite finger crack? E-mail us with the following information, and we may just quote you in the article! Route: _______________________ Location: _____________________ Rating: ______ Why you think it’s the best: ________________________________


______________________________________________________ Your Name: _____________________

EL NINO — New Route on Moro Rock

A couple of weeks ago, Brandon Thau, Grant Gardner, and Jody Pennycook put up El Nino, V 5.10 A.3+ on Moro Rock. They spent four days and three nights on portaledges on the route, averaging two pitches a day without drilling any bolts or rivets except for the belays. Every one of the first five pitches was overhung. It follows a very steep natural line to the right of Full Metal Jacket on Moro Rock. The crux pitch required ten beaks, copperheads, and only two or three pieces that would hold a short fall. It’s definitely the most difficult aid route in Sequioa National Park, and Brandon ventures to say one of the most difficult grade Vs in California outside of Yosemite. The rating of A3+ is extremely conservative. The exciting part of the story is that the first ascent party got hit by a storm about 300 feet from the top. They had to make a bivy in the dark, in a portaledge. All three of them squeezed on a double portaledge for twelve hours as six inches of snow fell. They made the summit dash in the morning when the storm subsided for a few hours. CLIMBER’S ALERT — Restrictions Proposed for Joshua Tree Following is more information on the situation in Joshua Tree, which was also mentioned in the last issue of mOthEr rOck Mail. The National Park Service is poised to release the Draft Backcountry Management Plan for Joshua Tree National Park, one of the world’s finest climbing areas. This plan is grossly biased against climbers, and includes unprecedented restrictions on climbing. The Access Fund urges all climbers to attend public hearings on the plan, and to submit written comments insisting that the Park Service treat climbing in an objective manner and follow its own guidelines for recreation management. Under the new management plan, all new bolting — and replacement of existing bolts — would be prohibited in Joshua Tree wilderness. The Park Service has suggested that if existing bolts become unsafe, they will remove them rather than allow them to be replaced. The Park Service’s stated goal is that all bolted routes will eventually become unsafe and unclimbable. Thus bolting would be illegal in the entire Wonderland of Rocks, the Split Rocks area, Saddle Rocks, Oz, Queen Mountain, the Geology Tour Road, and numerous other popular climbing areas. The new, Draconian restrictions don’t stop there. Installation of new bolts in other zones will be allowed only by formal permit from the NPS, after a review and approval from the “Bolting Advisory Subcommittee,” which takes a minimum of six months. New routes could be established only if they are more than ten feet from an existing route. White chalk would be prohibited; only “earth tone colored” chalk will be allowed. However, colored chalk has already been proven to cause more noticeable and lasting

resources impacts than white chalk. All slings must be removed from rappel/belay stations. The new Joshua Tree plan reflects the influence of a few extremists from the environmental community in Southern California, who have conspired with Joshua Tree officials to “get climbing under control” at Joshua Tree. This mindset conveniently ignores the Park Service’s own planning guidance, which states that before restrictions are imposed on established uses, there should be (1) an inventory of critical resources and their condition, or (2) a determination that an emergency threat to critical resources exists. Neither of these actions were completed. The limited evaluations of the climbing environment that were performed showed that climbing has caused minimal impacts at Joshua Tree! WHAT YOU CAN DO (1) Attend one or more of the public hearings on the Joshua Tree Backcountry Management Plan. Call all your climbing friends and get them to show up, too. It’s very important that climbers demonstrate to the Park Service that the new plan is unacceptable to the climbing community. The dates of the remaining two public hearings are: December 11, 1997 College of the Desert, Palm Desert, CA January 16, 1998 Joshua Tree Community Center, Joshua Tree, CA All meetings will begin at 6 p.m., and end no later than 9 p.m. (2) Write a letter to the Park Service commenting on the draft plan. State your opposition to restrictions which are not based on quantified measurements of resource impacts. Climbers should continue to be responsible for their own safety, and the new plan makes it impossible for climbers to assume this responsibility. Ask why climbers are not permitted new “primitive opportunities” like equestrians and hikers. Remind the Park Service that bolts have been placed in Joshua Tree backcountry for more than forty years, and this use has had no adverse effect on wilderness designation. No other unit of the National Park System has ever interpreted the Wilderness Act to prohibit bolts in wilderness. Wilderness managers have the discretionary authority to allow bolts, if these tools are determined to be necessary for a wilderness climbing experience. Ask the Park Service to complete a study which analyzes whether bolts are, in fact, necessary for a diverse wilderness climbing experience at Joshua Tree. To request a copy of the Joshua Tree Backcountry Management Plan, contact: Ernest Quintana Park Superintendent Joshua Tree National Park

74485 National Park Drive Twentynine Palms, CA 92277-3597 or call: 760-367-5500 For more information, contact the Access Fund at 303-545-6772. Or email us at [email protected]. MOTHER ROCK WEB SITE — FINALLY Updated! After months of inactivity, the mOthEr rOck Web site is back with an entirely new look!

The new site includes the following features: - details on how to subscribe to mOthEr rOck magazine - sample magazine articles (one or two from each issue) - details on how to subscribe to mOthEr rOck Mail - an archive of all past “issues” of mOthEr rOck Mail - information on ordering back issues and guidebooks - background information on the people who bring you mOthEr rOck - and coming soon, a cool new gallery of climbing photos Make sure to check it out! =====>>>>> http://members.aol.com/motherrock GREATOUTDOORS.COM — New Web Site for “Lifestyle Sports” GreatOutdoors.com offers original Web-only content about outdoor gear, travel, technique, nutrition, and fitness for outdoor adventure sports and expeditions. Users will find a wealth of original programming, live competition coverage, environmental news, live updates from explorers in the far reaches of the globe, and detailed reviews of new gear. Features of GreatOutdoors.com include: * Coverage of skiing, snowboarding, mountain biking, cycling, hiking, surfing, windsurfing, kayaking, rock climbing, fly-fishing, and triathlons. * Weather information from sources such as NOAA and the U.S. Geological Survey including snow reports, river levels, and coastal tide, wind and wave data. * Exclusive RealAudio coverage of FIS World Cup skiing. * VeloNews coverage of international cycling classics like the Tour de France, Giro d’Italia, and Paris-Roubaix combined with OLN video of the events. * Same-day updates from major events on the triathlon schedule will be provided by Inside Triathlon, along with reports from top duathlons and the growing number of mountain bike triathlons. * Outdoor equipment reviews and information from offbeat veteran gearheads Bob


http://members.aol.com/motherrock

Woodward, Jackson Hogan, and Paul Kirwin at “gearOrama”. * OLN Adventure Quest expeditions, with live components, directly from the four corners of the world. =====>>>>> http://GreatOutdoors.com GEOCITIES — Free Web Sites for Climbers! GeoCities has been giving people free Web pages for about three years, and recently surpassed the one million mark. GeoCities recently opened a new “neighborhood” called Pipeline for junkies of “extreme” sports, including climbing and paintball. Check it out, whether it’s to see what other climbers are doing on the Web, or to stake your claim on the Internet and put up your own climbing Web page! =====>>>>> http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/ MOTHER ROCK PRESS — Five Local Guidebooks Currently Available More than “just” a magazine, mOthEr rOck has been publishing a series of mini-guidebooks for more than a year. The following guidebooks are currently available, at the prices listed. All prices include postage. Send your order with payment to mOthEr rOck, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151. Sorry, prices are not valid outside of the U.S. The Best of mOthEr rOck , Volume 1. This guide to new and obscure areas and routes covers 12 locations around Southern California. Includes information about Wheeler Gorge Narrows, Potrero John Wall, Lower San Ysidro Canyon, The Fire Crags, Old L.A. Zoo, Falling Rock Canyon, Mormon Rocks, Box Springs, Mentone Boulders, Palm Springs Domes, DMZ, Shady Cove, and new routes at Joshua Tree. The information was contributed by Reese Martin, Fritz Lowrey, Matt Artz, Brandon Thau, Aaron Rough, Steve Parker, and Chris Miller. 8.5″ by 5.5″, bound, 34 pages. Only $6.00 postpaid in the U.S. mOthEr rOck Magazine’s Turtle Rock Bouldering Guide. By Matt Artz. The most comprehensive guide available to the mega-classic Real Hidden Valley/Turtle Rock bouldering area in Joshua Tree National Park. This book contains detailed information on 64 boulder problems, many of which are not listed by Mari Gingery, Randy Vogel, and Craig Fry in their otherwise excellent guidebooks. Lots of photos and topos. 8.5″ by 5.5″, bound, 44 pages. Only $8.00 postpaid in the U.S. mOthEr rOck Magazine’s Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide. By Aaron Rough. Check out this hot new sport climbing area only minutes away from Mt. Rubidoux! The guide also includes some trad, multi-pitch, and bouldering routes. Photos and topo. 8.5″ by 5.5″, bound, 24 pages. Only $6.00 postpaid in the U.S. mOthEr rOck Magazine’s Guide to the 1984 California Bouldering Contest. Own this essential piece of California climbing history, and get some Mt. Rubidoux route information not found in any of the current guidebooks. 8.5″ by 5.5″, bound, 28 pages.

http://greatoutdoors.com/

http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/

Only $5.00 postpaid in the U.S. mOthEr rOck Magazine’s Mini-Guide to Iris Slab. By Matt Artz. The perfect companion on your next visit to this classic Eastern Sierra beginner/intermediate climbing destination. 70 to 80 foot slab and crack climbs from 5.4 to 5.10c! Photos and topo. 8.5″ by 5.5″, bound, 12 pages. Only $3.00 postpaid in the U.S.

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #97-09, 25-Nov-97 from the mOthEr rOck archives… ______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-09 ____________________

25-Nov-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-09! CENTRAL GULLEY — New Mountaineering Route on Mt. Thompson RockandGroove.com — Online Climbing Magazine and Webstore BISHOPS PEAK — Access Update YOSEMITE — Public Comment Needed BLACK MOUNTAIN — New Boulder Problems JOSHUA TREE — Public Hearing in Beverly Hills RESULTS — REI Northridge Climbing Competition SICK BIRD — New Route at Big Chief, Truckee River Canyon

INTRODUCTION Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 700 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail! Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like your name to be added to or removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to: [email protected] CENTRAL GULLEY — New Mountaineering Route on Mt. Thompson On October 5th, 1997, Alois Smrz did a solo first ascent of a new route on Mt. Thompson in the Sierras. The middle of the trio of ice gullies on the north face of Mt. Thompson, the Central Gulley route is 1,000 feet at about 65 degrees, and rated WI III 5.6/5.7. It took Smrz more than two and a half hours to climb the gulley. “For a pair of climbers, with a good selection of ice and rock gear, it might represent a great day in the mountains,” says Smrz. “To climb it solo, you will need solid technical ability, stamina, and judgment.” Added Smrz, “The terrain in these gullies forced me into some of the best ice climbing I have ever done in the mountains.” (from Cliff Notes, the newsletter of the Southern


California Mountaineers Association, Number 121, December 1997). RockandGroove.com — Online Climbing Magazine and Webstore Rock and Groove is an online climbing magazine and webstore. The magazine strives to offer the most up to date climbing information including news, articles, interviews, reviews, techniques, etc. The webstore caters to climbers and has one of the largest selections of climbing related products. Highlights include: *Interviews with Chris Sharma, Yuji Hirayama, Lynn Hill *Beginner Section with complete glossary *Video Review and Video Clips *Animated Dyno Technique *Roc Doc and Gear Guru *A webstore selling everything from gear to videos to plastic to books by mOthEr rOck. Check it out today! =====>>>>> www.rockandgroove.com BISHOPS PEAK — Access Update The City of San Luis Obispo has a negotiated a price of $895,000 for the acquisition of the land which holds Bishop Peak. The City has applied for two grants: a $100,000 grant from the Environmental Enhancement Mitigation Fund, and a separate $350,000 grant from the State Coastal Conservancy. The City has already received word on the award of the $100,000 grant from the Environmental Enhancement Mitigation Fund. The fate of the Coastal Conservancy Grant will be decided on December 15th, 1997. The remainder of the funds will come from existing city open space funding, and $50,000 to $100,000 from private donations. The goal is to raise the $50,000 to $100,000 dollars needed by the City to complete the deal. To date they have raised more than $43,000 for this purpose. The funds raised by the Sierra Club are to aid the City of San Luis Obispo or other agencies to acquire real property at Bishop Peak. As a rule, the Sierra Club is not allowed to hold title for real property. The lands purchased must remain in open space held in perpetuity and provide passive recreation for hiking and rock climbing. (Contributed by Matt Pollard) YOSEMITE — Public Comment Needed Public comment is needed on the Draft Yosemite Valley Implementation Plan Supplemental Environmental Impact Statement. Please read and comment on the plan before January 23rd,1998. To submit comments or for more information, go to this

http://www.rockandgroove.com/

National Park Service Web site: =====>>>>> http://www.nps.gov/planning/yosemite/vip/com.htm If you’re in Yosemite, plan to go on a walk through of areas that will be affected with the National Park Service. These walks are scheduled every Wednesday and Saturday at 9:00 a.m. from November 26th, 1997 through January 21st, 1998. Meet at the visitor center; the walks last approximately three hours. For copies of the Valley Implementation Plan, write to the Public Information Office, Yosemite National Park, P.O. Box 577, Yosemite, CA 95389; or call 209-372-0261. JOSHUA TREE — Public Hearing in Beverly Hills Regarding the proposed climbing restrictions for Joshua Tree National Park, there will be an additional public hearing at 6:00 p.m. on December 2nd, 1997 at the William O. Douglas Outdoor Classroom in Franklin Canyon Park in Beverly Hills. This has the potential for drawing the largest crowd of all the meeting locations. BLACK MOUNTAIN — New Boulder Problems James March, Arnoud D’Kint, Reed Bartlet, Greg Loh, Matt Hoch, and Lisa Rands recently spent a productive day at Black Mountain. The mOthEr rOck-sponsored Matt Hoch was particularly prolific that day, putting up several new problems, including a delightful new V1 arete problem; a V5 dynamic line; a hard problem that involves a long dyno off a big edge to a thin sloping topout; and another V5 crank. There’s also a new project, a low dyno from a flake, that Jibe Tribout has been on, calling it a possible V11… For more on the latest happenings at Black Mountain, look for James March’s article in Issue #10 (January/February 1998) of mOthEr rOck magazine, which should hit the streets around January 1st, 1998. RESULTS — REI Northridge Climbing Competition Following are the results of the REI Northridge 6th annual climbing competition, which was held November 15th, 1997: Place - Name - Points (Out of 160) 1st Lee Haus 160 1st Katie Purtill 160 3rd Keith Rabbin 113 4th Jeremy Taylor 109 5th John Fodor 106 6th David Taylor 85 7th Scott Cushing 81 8th Dan Frame 80 8th Jesse De Jesus 80

http://www.nps.gov/planning/yosemite/vip/com.htm

10th William Pratt 79 10th Francis Lee 79 10th Rebecca Schnaible 79 13th Celina Gorre 76 13th David Hulting 76 13th Eric Hoffman 76 16th Mark Duran 72 16th Jennifer Adams 72 18th Catherine Chalecki 70 18th Greg Malone 70 20th John Park 68 20th Grayson Schaffer 68 22nd Chris Yorks 66 23rd Steve Sanchez 62 24th David Habib 58 25th Makiko Hirose 57 26th Cory Fowler 55 27th Danny Moore 54

SICK BIRD — New Route at Big Chief, Truckee River Canyon

Sick Bird, 5.10, is a new route put up by Steve Wright in September of 1997 at Big Chief in Truckee River Canyon. The route is five bolts long and is on the right side of the Light Depravation Buttress; it tops out at the anchors of the 5.8 climb next to it.

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #97-10, 08-Dec-97 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #97-10 ____________________ 08-Dec-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-10! JOSHUA TREE — Report on First Public Meeting JOSHUA TREE — Advice if You Plan to Testify BISHOPS PEAK — Latest Access News ECHO CLIFFS — New Sport Routes BOX SPRINGS — New Routes; Bolts Chopped PARTNERS WANTED — A New Service from mOthEr rOck Mail

INTRODUCTION Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 700 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail! Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like your name to be added to or removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to [email protected] JOSHUA TREE — Report on First Public Meeting The first of three public meetings on the Draft Joshua Tree Backcountry Management Plan was held December 2nd, 1997 in Beverly Hills. The audience of about 40 was mostly climbers and a few mountain bikers. Why would these climbers skip their regular evening workout to attend this public meeting? The answer is simple. The Park Service plan proposes to prohibit any new or REPLACEMENT fixed anchors in Joshua Tree wilderness, which is almost 80% of the Park. As bolts go bad, they couldn’t be replaced under the plan. Within just a few years many routes in Joshua Tree backcountry could become unsafe.


Joshua Tree draws climbers from all over the globe. It is an amazing and unique place. For climbing to continue we must be able to place and replace bolts. Without solid anchors we cannot GET DOWN from climbs safely. Climbers should not have to risk being hurt or killed by bad bolts. This is just part of the message that climbers gave to Ernie Quintana, the superintendent of Joshua Tree National Park, at the informal public meeting. Supervisor Quintana told the audience that climbing at Joshua Tree is getting out of control. Climbers cannot expect the NPS to take a hands off approach. He asked climbers to offer specific proposals on what should be done instead of banning bolts. Members of the audience asked “why a plan which says how important climbing is at J-Tree, but will limit climbing?” Ernie agreed. “Climbing must be managed. Many visitors find bolts and fixed slings to be offensive and damaging to the wilderness experience.” Reese Martin summed up most of the audience’s feelings: “On page 36 of the Plan it states that ‘The permanent installation of bolts detracts from wilderness.’ I strongly dispute this assertion! Where does the Wilderness Act say that we cannot use a minimum tool for climbing? No other national park has ever considered bolts to be ‘anti-Wilderness Act.’ The argument that bolts are prohibited by the Wilderness Act is not a viable course of action. “Climbers are willing to compromise on wilderness issues. Climbers want to minimize their impacts. I support reasonable raptor, prehistoric art, and crack cleaning restrictions. I support the ban on power drills in Joshua Tree Wilderness. It makes sense to minimize and camouflage anchors. Chipping and gluing is anathema to climbing and wilderness values and I support continued prohibitions on this activity. We will work with you on these issues. As to bolts–climbers will compromise only on the DEGREE of USE. Use of fixed anchors must be allowed to continue in Joshua Tree Wilderness.” The NPS will conduct two more meetings on the plan. They will be there to listen with an open mind. However, written comments are the only ones that will have any influence on the decision makers. Address your comments to:

Ernest Quintana, Park Superintentent Joshua Tree National Park 74485 National Park Drive Twentynine Palms, CA 92277-3597 Call (760) 367-5500 to request a copy of the plan. E-mail comments to: [email protected]

All comments must be submitted before January 30th, 1998. The next two workshops will be held from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. at the following locations:


• December 11th, 1997: St. Margaret’s Episcopal Church, Palm Desert • January 16th, 1997: Joshua Tree Community Center, Joshua Tree

Maps to these meetings are posted on the Access Fund Web site: =====>>>>> www.outdoorlink.com/accessfund/joshuatree.html

Please plan to attend one of the next two meetings.

JOSHUA TREE — Advice if You Plan to Testify

For those of you who will be testifying at either of the remaining two public meetings or writing letters on the Joshua Tree Backcountry Management Plan, here is some wise counsel from Sam Davidson on how to get your points across to the National Park Service (NPS):

One thing to keep in mind: if EVERYONE sounds angry, then the NPS will just tune you out. It’s helpful to have anecdotes to tell that pertain to your objections, that is, to describe actual climbing situations you’ve been in (or can IMAGINE having been in) that speak to the need for climbers to be able to place and replace bolts. - Emphasize the need to GET DOWN safely. - Ask the NPS to explain why J-Tree proposes to adopt this position (bolts are anti-Wilderness Act) when no other National Park has ever done so. What about consistency of management? Did they even TALK to Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and other parks with plenty of wilderness climbing? Lastly, we know Quintana thinks he is caught between extremes: the Joan Taylors on one hand, and the unwilling-to-compromise climbers on the other. Let’s let him know that we ARE willing to compromise on the wilderness issues, and maybe even suggest alternative management approaches. The argument that bolts are prohibited by the Wilderness Act can’t be a viable approach unless the NPS has determined by objective evaluation that climbing in J-Tree wilderness never requires the use of bolts — if you’re going to allow climbing in wilderness, you have to allow at least some degree of fixed anchor use. Where we are willing to compromise is on this DEGREE OF USE. BISHOPS PEAK — Latest Access News The purchase of Bishops Peak in San Luis Obispo has passed the final political hurdle. Negotiations with the land owner, Ray Bunnell, started in early 1995. On December 2nd, 1997, the San Luis Obispo City Council unanimously approved the purchase of 108 acres of open space on the summit and upper elevations of the peak. The total cost of the land is $895,000, but actual acquisition will depend on the approval by the state Coastal Conservancy Commission of a $350,000 grant for purchase. Mayor Settle will be advocating the purchase at a meeting of the Commission in San Diego on Friday the 5th of December. Representatives from the offices of Assemblyman Tom

http://www.outdoorlink.com/accessfund/joshuatree.html

Bordonaro and Sen. Jack O’Connell will also be present. Of the $895,000 purchase price, the City will contribute $200,000 fromit’s general fund and the state Habitat Conservation Fund will contribute $100,000. The local Sierra Club contributed $45,000 toward the cause, and $200,000 will come from other sources. Natural resource manager Neil Havlik is now investigating those other sources. One possible origin of funding could be the allocation of general fund money that has been set aside for future years. The Access Fund is also contributing to the purchase. On October 18, 1997, the Access Fund Board of Directors approved a $5,000.00 Preservation Grant for the acquisition of Bishops Peak. These funds will be released prior to the closing date on the property acquisition (Spring 1998). Since its incorporation as a non-profit organization in 1990, the Access Fund has provided nearly $1,000,000 for climber conservation and education projects across the United States. The city has tentative plans to allow public access and is planning on extending some existing trails for the hikers and climbers who use the area illegally. Although the area is privately owned, it has been a popular hiking and climbing spot for community members for years. (Contributed by Matt Pollard) ECHO CLIFFS — New Sport Routes A number of new routes have been going up at Echo Cliffs in the Santa Monica Mountains. Here’s a brief sampling: * Ruckus,” 5.13c/d. This route starts on “Kamikaze” and climbs that route to its 4th bolt, where it then climbs up and left to the last bolt of “The Gimp.” 7 bolts to a shared double shut anchor with “The Gimp.” * “The Brute,” 5.13a. This short power route features long moves to positive pockets. 4 bolts to a double shut anchor. * “Brutal Bypass,” 5.12c. This route starts just to the right of “The Brute” and climbs awkward pocket moves to a large shelf before joining that route at its fourth bolt. 4 bolts to a shared double shut anchor with “The Brute.” Look for a new guidebook covering these and other sport climbs in the Santa Monica Mountains to be published by January of 1998. Stay tuned to mOthEr rOck Mail for details! BOX SPRINGS — New Routes; Bolts Chopped When Aaron Rough, author of the Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide, walked up to the base of the main wall last Sunday, he knew something was up. “I walked right up to the base of ‘Melts in Your Mouth,’ and immediately noticed the bolts had been chopped.” “Melts in Your Mouth” was never anyone’s favorite climbs at Box Springs, being the only “manufactured” route in the area. “It was a piece of shit route anyways, and I knew it was just a matter of time before it was chopped,” Aaron said. He had hoped, however,

that the people who chopped the bolts would first consult with either him or the first ascent party. “I don’t object to the fact that it was chopped; someone felt they wanted to make a strong statement about not letting manufactured routes go in at Box Springs. But I strongly object to the way the chopping was done. The proper way to make a statement would be to chop the bolts, fill the bolt holes, and also fill the drilled pockets. Whoever chopped the bolts didn’t bother to clean anything up, and has created an ugly mess now.” His spirit not affected by this latest action, Aaron is currently developing two new walls at Box Springs that promise to offer some of the most spectacular climbing in the area. Elsewhere, a number of new moderate boulder problems are currently being developed at Box Springs. Many other bolted routes are going up as well. Look for a list of new routes and boulder problems on the mOthEr rOck Web site some time in January 1998. When the information is available, it will also be included as an insert to the Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide. Climbers who previously purchased the guidebook will also be able to request a copy of the insert by mail. PARTNERS WANTED — A New Service from mOthEr rOck Mail Since we started over a year and a half ago, mOthEr rOck has been getting a lot of E-mail from climbers looking for partners. So we’ve decided to add a regular feature to mOthEr rOck Mail for this purpose. If you’re looking for a partner in So Cal, E-mail the info to [email protected], and we’ll put it in the next issue of this E-mail newsletter. Good luck! * Brooks Ayola–I live in Woodland Hills, just down the street from Stoney Point. My skill level is pretty low–I have lead once, a 5.8 at Red Rocks, but I want to get better. I am a commercial photographer who can also take pictures of my climbing partners. If you’re interested, E-mail me at [email protected]



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____________________ Issue #97-11 ____________________

10-Dec-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-11! EASTERN SIERRA UPDATE SNOW VALLEY — 1998 Boulderfest Announcement SAFETY FIRST — Upcoming Avalanche Course

INTRODUCTION Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 700 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail! Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like your name to be added to or removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to [email protected] SNOW VALLEY — 1998 Boulderfest Announcement Back by popular demand, the Rim of the World Climbing Club is pleased to announce the 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest. More boulder problems, more climbers, and more fun than ever before! The date for the 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest has been etched in stone, so to speak. Please mark your calendars now for Saturday, September 26th, 1998. Stay tuned to mOthEr rOck Mail for more details as they become available. EASTERN SIERRA UPDATE Ice climbers are off to an early start, with the Lee Vining cliffs offering leadable routes


on the center flow and good top roping elsewhere. June Lake’s Horsetail Falls isn’t there yet, but the flows right next to the winter road closure are top rope-able. For ice 5 minutes from the car, they’re not bad… Human waste disposal has become a problem in Lee Vining Canyon with the increase in activity in the past few years, so local guides have teamed up to provide (pay for) outhouses at the Lee Vining parking area. A pack-your-waste system is being implemented for those calls of nature away from the parking area (who hasn’t felt the tightening of the gut as the ice comes into view up the canyon…). This system will utilize the tried and true plastic bag system. Bags are available at the outhouses; used bags can be disposed of in the trash barrel next to the outhouses. No other garbage in the garbage can please, as the entire contents will later end up in the June Lake waste treatment facility. Plastic and all. Backcountry skiers have been blessed with an early start too this season. Much of the backcountry between Mammoth and June is in fine shape with 3 to 5 feet of fluff. One more storm ought to see the rest of the Eastside off to a fine start. And with skiing comes avalanche hazard; though the snow is relatively shallow, numerous avalanches have been observed. With the cold, clear weather last week, and the recent storms and wind, we’re sure to see more slopes slide in the near future. Current (12/9) spots to watch out for are east facing slopes above 8500′ that have been wind loaded. A buried hoar layer is adding to the instability. The Buttermilk boulders are currently inaccesable due to snow. This could last the winter but rarely is the road blocked for more than six weeks in a season. The Boulder Farm is open and can be surprisingly warm on a sunny day. (Contributed by Todd Vogel). SAFETY FIRST — Upcoming Avalanche Course A Taste For Adventure, a guide service based out of Bishop, California, is offering an avalanche course coming up on Saturday and Sunday, December 27th and 28th, 1997. The avalanche course is a comprehensive field-based seminar. The cost is $125, which does not include food or lodging but does include lots of hands-on instruction. For more information, contact A Taste For Adventure at 760-873-8526, or by E-mail at [email protected].



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____________________ Issue #97-12 ____________________

14-Dec-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-12! JOSHUA TREE — A Different View on Bolts in the Wilderness JOSHUA TREE — Is Climbing Really “Out of Control”??? BARDINI BOULDERS — New On-Line Guide YOSEMITE BOULDERING — On-Line Guide Available SANTA ANA RIVER — Glue-Ups Removed STONEY POINT — Clean-Up A Huge Success! SAN LUIS OBISPO — Updated Guidebook Available NEW JACK CITY — Update in the Works BOX SPRINGS — Guidebook Available at Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree ROPEGUN — Available at Selected Retail Outlets EXPEDITION NEWS — When So Cal is Not Enough!

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 700 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail!

Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like your name to be added to (or removed from) this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to:[email protected]

JOSHUA TREE — A Different View on Bolts in the Wilderness

In all the climber response to the intent of the National Park Service to ban bolts in Wilderness areas at Joshua Tree, it’s important to remember that not all climbers agree on this issue….

After Issue #97-10, mOthEr rOck received the following E-mail: “As a long time (but mostly retired) climber, at first I felt the normal sympathies concerning the bolt situation at Joshua Tree. However, after some thought, I really don’t care about your problems. If God didn’t put a tree at the top to anchor from, or make a crack or two to put a SLCD in, who gives you the right to modify what God has made, and what we, the public, own. You don’t have to risk your lives on bad bolts. Climb somewhere else, or quit climbing. I doubt that you would come to the defense of people wanting to rampage through the park with four-wheelers, or of people wanting to make a fire anywhere they wanted. Are climbers’ “rights” superior to others? I’ll answer that: NO.”

Even if you don’t agree with this statement–which probably describes the vast majority of people reading it–think about it for a moment.

And speaking of bolts in the Joshua Tree wilderness….while bouldering in Joshua Tree yesterday afternoon, mOthEr rOck discovered a very interesting statement on page 3 of Mari Gingery’s 1993 book, “Joshua Tree Bouldering”:

“Several regulations have been imposed by the park service which apply specifically to climbers. Among the currently existing rules for climbers are: 1) no bolting of any kind is allowed in the designated wilderness areas of the Monument, including replacement of existing bolts.”

If anyone knows the story behind this–was this an error in the guidebook, or an old policy which they’re trying to bring back for a second time–please E-mail us at [email protected].

JOSHUA TREE — Is Climbing Really “Out of Control”???

In Issue #97-10, mOthEr rOck reported that Ernie Quintana, the superintendent of Joshua Tree National Park, stated that “climbing at Joshua Tree is getting out of control.” Needless to say, this has raised quite a few eyebrows in the climbing community…

mOthEr rOck asked Reese Martin, who was there at the meeting in Beverly Hills where Quintana reportedly made this statement, for an elaboration. Does the NPS really believe climbing is getting out of control in the Park? Can they quantify this statement? Did they make an objective determination on this issue themselves, or is this information being spoon fed to them from another user group?

“The ‘out of control’ statement should wake folks up to how poorly informed Ernie Quintana & the Park Service are,” Reese said. “A certain small group of noisy folks who claim to love wilderness, but really just don’t like climbing and want climbers out of ‘their’ Joshua Tree, have gotten the ear of the Park planners and Supervisor Quintana and convinced them it’s out of control. I was told by one of these folks that the simple act of climbing on rocks offended his wilderness values. These people are members of the

National Parks and Conservation Association & the Sierra Club; although they tried to represent themselves as the official club position, they have been told to back off, since the Sierra club is officially supportive of climbing and will soon take an official position supporting fixed anchors in wilderness areas.”

Again, can the park Service quantify this statement?

“No,” Reese said. “When asked specifically, they said they had no objective data, nor had they done any studies. It’s their perception. Ernie said things like there are ‘too many bolts,’ ‘everywhere you look there are climbers on the rocks,’ etc. Nothing quantitative.

“The anti-climbing folks are adamant that there should be no bolts in wilderness. Joan Taylor (who is not a climber) told me ‘bolts rape the rock,’ and ‘bolts aren’t needed for any climb.’ These folks do not like climbers, PERIOD. They are not up for a compromise.”

Reese also had this advice for those people who are going to testify at the one remaining public hearing (January 16th, 1997, at the Joshua Tree Community Center) or write letters or E-mail to Quintana:

“Be sure to ask Ernie exactly what he means when he says ‘climbing is out of control,’ and what data and studies does he have to back up that statement. The Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) (prepared for the proposed Management Plan) is incredibly weak; no analysis is given at all to back up their conclusion that bolts detract from wilderness.”

BARDINI BOULDERS — New On-Line Guide

The Peabody Boulders, also known as The Buttermilks, are well known as a classic bouldering area in the Eastern Sierra. But if you’ve ever been there, you’ve probably noticed that there seems to be tons more rock around. If only there was a guide to some of the other stuff like Sherman Acres, the Bardini Boulders, and other little-known spots…

Thanks to our friends at www.bouldering.com, we’ll soon have the beta on new areas like this. Be sure to check out their first installment: an on-line guide to the Bardini Boulders! =====>>>>> www.bouldering.com/mappage.htm

YOSEMITE BOULDERING — On-Line Guide Available

Kevin Thaw and our friends at Rock & Ice magazine have published a new comprehensive guide to Yosemite bouldering on the Web. Check it out, print out your own copy, and start planning your next trip!

=====>>>>> www.rockandice.com/cliffnotes/tripping/guides/yboulder/yotitle.html

http://www.bouldering.com/mappage.htm

http://www.rockandice.com/cliffnotes/tripping/guides/yboulder/yotitle.html

SANTA ANA RIVER — Glue-Ups Removed

A source tipped us off to the removal of holds under the 57 Freeway Wall and the Santa Ana River Bed. Locals say that for a free artificial wall, it was a great place to keep in shape. The holds were removed about two months ago, with no word from anyone on why. The routes to the top are still intact, with the roof aid accessible still with a little ingenuity.

In other glue-up news, mOthEr rOck has also heard the Whitewater glue-ups on the road to Palm Springs were also removed several months ago…

Why all the recent choppings of glue-up routes in the Southland? Most say it’s probably just Caltrans (and other agencies) worried about liability, like it has been in the past. But there is one particularly nasty rumor circulating, that a fringe element at some local climbing gyms may be responsible–that is, destroying the local training areas in order to increase patronage at the gyms. At this point, however, this is just a nasty rumor, and mOthEr rOck has seen no evidence to support this claim.

STONEY POINT — Clean-Up A Huge Success!

From our friends at UCLA Outdoor Adventures, news that the Stoney Point clean-up that took place in Chatsworth on November 9th, 1997 was an enormous success.

Approximately 125 people attended to help pick up trash. Several truck loads of trash and recyclables were collected, and trash around Stoney Point was a scarcity for the first time in years.

Along with a shoe demo, there was a raffle, and free energy bars and drinks for all clean-up participants. mOthEr rOck was proud to help sponsor this event. While the cleaning of Stoney Point will be an ongoing process, this event was a step in the right direction. On an encouraging note, UCLA Outdoor Adventures has already talked with many excited participants who are interested in helping to make this an annual event.

SAN LUIS OBISPO — Updated Guidebook Available

The newest addition to the Mobius family of guidebooks is a guide to San Luis Obispo County. The book is a comprehensive guide to sport and traditional climbing in the San Luis Obispo (Central Coast) area. The guide includes information on climbing at Bishop Peak, Cerro Romualdo, Cabrillo Peak, Wagon Caves, Big Sur Coast, and Owl Tor.

The guide, called California Central Coast Climbing: San Luis Obispo, by Tom Slater, is 84 pages long and retails for $12.95. Mobius can take direct orders, but would prefer that climbers look for the guidebook at their local retailer (REI, Sport Chalet, Nomad, A16, etc.)

For more info, contact Mobius by E-mail at [email protected], or by phone at 626-441-9029. And look for a review of the guide in a future issue of mOthEr rOck Magazine.

NEW JACK CITY — Update in the Works

Mobuis will soon make available an update to their New Jack City guidebook. It will be in the form of an insert in the existing guidebook. The update will include information on more moderate routes as well as routes on new crags.

For more info, contact Mobius by E-mail at [email protected], or by phone at 626-441-9029.

BOX SPRINGS — Guidebook Available at Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree

mOthEr rOck’s Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide is now available at Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree.

ROPEGUN — Available at Selected Retail Outlets

Ropegun products are now available at Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree, REI Carson, REI San Dimas, REI Mission Viejo, and REI Northridge.

EXPEDITION NEWS — When So Cal is Not Enough!

Join the Team! - EXPEDITION NEWS is the monthly review of significant expeditions, research projects, and newsworthy adventures from around the world. Learn which corporate sponsors consistently fund expeditions, and how media coverage is capturing the imagination of millions. 12 monthly issues for US$36; international postal rate: $US46. For a free sample issue contact: Jeff Blumenfeld, editor/publisher, Expedition News, 397 Post Rd., Suite 202, Darien, CT 06820; Tel.: 203-656-3300; E-mail: [email protected]; Web: www.microship.com/expedition_news.


http://www.microship.com/expedition_news

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #97-13, 18 Dec-97 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

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____________________ Issue #97-13 ____________________

18 Dec-97

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #97-13! JOSHUA TREE — Background on the Bolting Ban HAPPY BOULDERS — Guide in the December Issue of Rock & Ice JOSHUA TREE — More Views on Bolts in the Wilderness STONEY POINT — Clean-Up is an Ongoing Process JOSHUA TREE — Report on the Palm Desert Meeting

INTRODUCTION


Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like your name to be added to (or removed from) this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to: [email protected]

JOSHUA TREE — Background on the Bolting Ban

In Issue #97-12, mOthEr rOck quoted the following from Mari Gingery’s 1993 book, “Joshua Tree Bouldering”:

“Several regulations have been imposed by the park service which apply specifically to climbers. Among the currently existing rules for climbers are: 1) no bolting of any kind is allowed in the designated wilderness areas of the Monument, including replacement of existing bolts.”

We got a couple of E-mails on the subject; the following sums it up:


“This policy has been in existence since mid-1993. The ban was placed while an environmental impact study was done by two Colorado-based Universities. The results were fairly inconclusive and a weak justification for continuing the ban was put forth. It has been widely ignored by many new route activists and there have been bolt replacements done as well.

“It’s strange that the perception is that the ban was off for a while, but it has never been lifted, just not enforced.”

More:

“The passage of the Wilderness Act forced the park administration to adopt a new management plan. Bolting is part of that management plan, so the park administration placed a moratorium on new bolting and replacement of bolts in wilderness areas. It has taken nearly five years for the plan to be produced. Also, as bolting is not mentioned specifically in the Wilderness Act, there has been no precedent in the interpretation of how bolts fit (or do not fit) into wilderness. That is what the big ruckus is all about: Does the Wilderness Act permit the use of fixed anchors in the wilderness (i.e., are fixed anchors part of wilderness)?”

HAPPY BOULDERS — Guide in the December Issue of Rock & Ice

The photocopied flier some of you may have been lucky enough to pick up was a start, and the recent teaser on the Fish site (the topo for the Paco the Weasel Boulder) was enough to make the hard-core boulderer foam at the mouth. Then, there’s the cover of the December 15, 1997 issue of climbing. And finally, a guide! Our friends at www.bouldering.com tell us to look for a guide to the Happy Boulders in the Eastern Sierra in the December Issue of Rock & Ice.

JOSHUA TREE — More Views on Bolts in the Wilderness

To say the proposed Joshua Tree bolting regulations have stirred up some emotion in the So Cal climbing community would be an understatement. Following are four E-mails mOthEr rOck recently received on the subject.

#1:

“Please count me among the climbers who agree with the email you published in the beginning of (the last) issue. If a route requires permanent bolts, you shouldn’t be climbing it in the first place. Damaging rock with bolts is no less of a crime than bolting the giant sequoias or redwoods. Climbers’ “rights” to practice their sport in protected areas end at the point of causing any harm to the land or ecosystem. Forget the ridiculous “safety” argument. If you feel a route requires bolts for safety, don’t climb it.”

#2:

http://www.bouldering.com/

“People who describe things in terms of “rights” are usually fools. Hopefully your semi-retired climber is a young fool and not an old one. To equate placement of bolts with 4-wheeling through the area is foolish. Bolting of the type in the High Desert probably isn’t appropriate at Joshua Tree. However, the impact of bolting is certainly less than that of large numbers of people walking about. I’m sure the real aim of this latest threat is to limit the number of people visiting the park.”

#3:

“To those who claim that defacing pristine stone by bolters is an unfair comparison with the damage and annoyance caused by some other users, I say they miss the point. Their only rational argument by differentiating is one of degree. However, it is an undeniable fact that bolting damages stone and annoys others. To argue that bolters’ damage to nature and their disturbance of others is acceptable is an argument in self-interest.”

#4:

“As an active climber who has never, and probably will never put up a new route or even a new bolt, my interests are primarily in retaining the right to maintain what climbs, bolts, and fixed anchors are already there. I’d prefer not to have a ban on new routes, as I feel exploration and risk-taking are fundamental to the spirit that made America, but I would accept this as a fallback to losing the right to maintain what is already there at Josh.”

STONEY POINT — Clean-Up is an Ongoing Process

After our article about the success of the Stoney Point Clean-up in issue #97-12, mOthEr rOck got the following reminder by E-mail:

“While the clean-up was in fact a huge success, there is still a lot of old trash, and new trash is already appearing (we cleaned up a bunch of broken beer bottles from Hot Tuna yesterday). Climbers could easily take it upon themselves to take out a bag (size of your own choice) of trash each time they are at Stoney.”

JOSHUA TREE — Report on the Palm Desert Meeting

Rob Stauder reports:

“I went to the meeting in Palm Desert last Wednesday, representing the Rim of the World Climbing Club with Brad Singer, Travis McElvany, Mike Rigney, and Matt McGunigle. Climbers were represented by about 10 or 12 of us. There were no more than 25 people there.

“The point the climbers contributed was that the moratorium has made routes unsafe. Many old bolts have not been allowed to be replaced and have become dangerous. Bolting and replacing of bolts has only been allowed within 200 feet of the road (some say 200 yards). Hence, bolts have now become more visible.

“The park administration is considering two basic options:

“1. Maximum Protection–no new bolts, no replacement bolts, and existing bolts would be removed.

“2. Minimal protection–bolts allowed anywhere.

“There is a third option, something like a no change is status quo–no bolting nor replacement of bolts in the wilderness.

“The Friends of Joshua Tree is the local organization taking the lead on ensuring access. Their position is one of compromise: Only allow maintenance of bolts in wilderness. But as not all the park is wilderness, it would only effect bolting in the wilderness.”

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #98-01, 06-Jan-98 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

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____________________ Issue #98-01 ____________________

06-Jan-98

HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM ALL OF US AT MOTHER ROCK!!!!!!!!!

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-01! BISHOPS PEAK — Access Preserved! FRUSTRATION CREEK — Two New Routes JOSHUA TREE — The Wilderness Bolting Story

INTRODUCTION



BISHOPS PEAK — Access Preserved!

Merry Christmas mOthEr rOckErs–I was just in San Luis Obispo, and get this: the City just gave us a nice Christmas gift–Bishop’s Peak!

The cost of the purchase: $895,000.

The 108-acre purchase is adjacent to the land already preserved as open space on the east, west and south side of the peak, forming a 350 acre mountain park and guaranteeing public access to the 1,559 foot peak. The new purchase includes the peak’s rocky north face, which includes the routes that are most popular with climbers.


The city spent $400,000 of its own cash. $100,000 came from the state Habitat Conservation Fund; $350,000 from the Coastal Conservancy; and $45,000 from the Sierra Club’s Morro Preservation Fund. The Access Fund donated money to the Sierra Club for the purchase.

The City open an escrow account last week, and if all goes well, the City should be the official owner by March 2, 1998.

The property owner, Ray Bunnell, also sold the right to build 4 of 17units the County had approved for housing. He no longer can build homes on the ridge on the north side of the peak, but he can build 13 units on the 170 acres he retains at the foot of the mountain. (Contributed by Matthew Pollard).

FRUSTRATION CREEK — Two New Routes

Brandon Thau reports two new routes at Frustration Creek:

1) Right next to the road under a tree there is a fun crack climb (it still needs to be cleaned a little more) called “Frankincense,” 5.8. It needs a set of TCUs and maybe a nut or two.

2) The route to the right is “Myrrh,” 5.11-. This route has five bolts, and is kind of tricky; just remember to lieback the right edge. It’s hard to get a good stance to clip the second bolt, but there are some cool moves on the route.

What’s that you say? Where the heck is Frustration Creek?

It’s a new sport climbing area near Forest Falls in the San Bernardino Mountains. Stay tuned to mOthEr rOck for more details; we’ll most likely be publishing a topo/mini-guide in the spring.

JOSHUA TREE — The Wilderness Bolting Story

The use of fixed anchors in designated wilderness in the BLM, National Forests, and Park Service is legal, and has NEVER been illegal. Fixed anchors have been placed and used in wilderness for decades, and have NEVER been considered by land managers or Congress to cause significant impacts to wilderness resources or character.

The 1993 Joshua Tree Climbing Management plan restricted placement and replacement of fixed anchors in Joshua Tree wilderness areas. This interim ban was illegally imposed and has not been enforced.

The use of power drills in wilderness is illegal.

Some wilderness managers have suggested that fixed anchors are generally prohibited by the Wilderness Act of 1964, and therefore cannot be permitted in wilderness areas.

However, no court has ruled on this issue, and fixed anchors have traditionally been treated and are more properly understood in the context of the Act as “imprint’s of man’s work [which are] substantially unnoticeable.” (Wilderness Act, section 1(c)) Fixed anchors have been placed and used in wilderness for decades, and have NEVER been considered by land managers or Congress to cause significant impacts to wilderness resources or character. Under the Wilderness Act, wilderness managers can use or place equipment needed for visitor safety and/or environmental protection themselves, or they can allow wilderness users to place it. Even if fixed anchors were determined to be a “non-conforming use” of wilderness, wilderness managers have the discretionary authority to allow this use if it is “necessary to meet minimum requirements for the administration of the [wilderness] area.” (Wilderness Act, section 4(a)).

The numerous existing routes with fixed anchors in Joshua Tree National Monument did not prevent the area from being designated as wilderness in 1976.

The 1993 Joshua Tree Climbing Management Plan contained an interim ban on bolting (new & replacement fixed anchors) in Joshua Tree wilderness. No ban was imposed on Joshua Tree non-wilderness. The 1993 plan required that the Park conduct a study to determine impacts of fixed anchors in wilderness. These studies are still pending.

The bolt ban in the 1993 plan is illegal. The Park Service failed to follow it’s own procedures (36 CFR 1.5(b) & (c) Closures and Public Use Limits).The Park never made the required findings to impose the ban. The superintendent has publicly acknowledged that federal procedures were not followed. This is why I suspect the Park has never enforced the ban. (Contributed by Reese Martin)

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #98-02, 03-Feb-98 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #98-02 ____________________

03-Feb-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-02! JOSHUA TREE — Comment Period Extended S.O.S. — Save Our Sierra! SNOW VALLEY — 1998 Boulderfest Scheduled CAMARILLO GROVE BOULDER — Access Issue SANTA MONICAS — Trail Troubles PETER CROFT — Slide Show HIGH DESERT — Still Closed BOBBI BENSMAN — Climbing Clinics WHITNEY PORTAL — A Climber’s Stackware Guide

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by nearly 800 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail!


JOSHUA TREE — Comment Period Extended

The Joshua Tree Wilderness Plan comment period has been extended from January 30th to February 28th, 1998. You still have a chance to express your opinion about this important issue to the National Park Service. Write your letter today!


To see the position of the Access Fund on the proposed bolting ban in Joshua Tree, check out: www.outdoorlink.com/accessfund/joshuatree.html

SNOW VALLEY — 1998 Boulderfest Scheduled

Back by popular demand, the Rim of the World Climbing Club (ROWCC) is pleased to announce the 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest. More boulder problems, more climbers, and more fun than ever before!

The date for the 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest has been tentatively rescheduled due to a conflict with Public Lands Appreciation Day. ROWCC has applied for a permit with the Forest Service to hold the Boulderfest on Saturday, October 3rd, 1998. Stay tuned to mOthEr rOck Mail for more details as they become available.

Speaking of Snow Valley…if you have not already checked out the latest issue of Climbing Magazine, DO IT NOW!

S.O.S. — Save Our Sierra!

The Forest Service is currently preparing a management plan for the wilderness areas of the High Sierra (the John Muir, Ansel Adams, Dinkey Lake, and Monarch Wilderness) and is seeking public input. The Forest Service preferred alternative will significantly change the backcountry experience for climbers, mountaineers, and other users. Some trails may be eliminated, campfires will be prohibited in some areas, etc.

To express your opinion on the proposed management plan, you can send a letter to: Forest Supervisor Sierra National Forest 1600 Tollhouse Road Clovis, CA 93611-0532 Attn: Wilderness Direction Comments

CAMARILLO GROVE BOULDER — Access Issue

Apparently someone recently cut down a fair amount of brush around the Camarillo Grove Boulder. This boulder is on private property, and previous to this incident the landowner has been ignoring boulderers who trespass. However, the chopping of brush has raised the climber tresspass issue with the landowners. The Access Fund is currently working on this case. Meanwhile, people, please–don’t ruin it for everyone; respect the rights of property owners.

SANTA MONICAS — Trail Troubles

Unfortunately, mOthEr rOck has heard that some climbers have been using the old short cut trail to access some of the new sport climbing crags in the Santa Monicas. It was use

of this trail that got the attention of the National Park Service and lead to the original closure of the area. Please, if you climb in the Santa Monicas, stay on the Access Fund trail from Split Rock, and other approved trails. We don’t want to see this area closed again.

PETER CROFT — Slide Show

February 11th at 8:00 p.m., Peter Croft, one of the world’s most recognized rock climbers, will discuss his various climbing styles and how they are influenced by the seasons. Peter is at the forefront of rock climbing, soloing, and speedclimbing. One of his most recognized achievements is climbing Half Dome and El Capitan in a day. This is a rare opportunity to meet one of the most accomplished climbers of our time. For more information, call The Rock Gym in Long Beach at 562-983-5500.

HIGH DESERT — Still Closed

Despite more recent rumors, the High Desert (Cemetery area only) remains closed and the owner has not yet opened the area. However, the owner has apparently expressed the intention to open the area and have climbers sign liability waivers. The Access Fund is on the case, and we at mOthEr rOck will let you know as soon as we hear any good news about High Desert. Meanwhile, at this point any people climbing in the Cemetery area are trespassing, a situation which does not help getting the area open again.

BOBBI BENSMAN — Climbing Clinics

February 17th or 18th, from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., Bobbi Bensman will be holding climbing clinics at The Rock Gym in Long Beach. Bobbi will work with you on technique, training, and injury prevention. All abilities are welcome, but reservations are required. For more information, call The Rock Gym at 562-983-5500.

WHITNEY PORTAL — A Climber’s Stackware Guide

Robs Muir recently recreated an old (circa 1990) Macintosh HyperCard stack and recoded it for the Web. This is a great guide to technical rock climbs around Whitney Portal. And best of all, it’s free! Check it out at: www.cusd.claremont.edu/~rmuir/whitney_portal/Whitney_Portal.html

http://www.cusd.claremont.edu/%7Ermuir/whitney_portal/Whitney_Portal.html


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____________________ Issue #98-03 ____________________

05-Feb-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-03! PHOENIX BOULDERING CONTEST — Register Now! HIGH DESERT — More Info, But Still Not Open…

INTRODUCTION



PHOENIX BOULDERING CONTEST — Register Now!

The Phoenix Bouldering Contest has come back for its 16th and FINAL year. The longest running and largest rock climbing competition/festival in the world will once again happen in Central Arizona over the weekend of the 3rd, 4th, and 5th of April, 1998. Registration starts on Friday, April 3rd; Contest day is Saturday, April 4th, with Sunday the 5th as the rain-out and clean up day.

Location: Oak Flat Campground, approximately 4 miles east of Superior, Arizona on US 60. (one and half hours drive east of Phoenix, Arizona)


For Additional Information: Call the Phoenix Rock Gym (602) 921-8322 or visit us on the web at: www.rocknroad.com/pbc

Entry Fees: Pre-Registration: $45 (If postmarked by 3/27/98) On-Sight Registration: $55 - ONLY IF SPOTS ARE AVAILABLE!!! Please call for availability after 3/27. (No refunds under any circumstances!!!) Limited to 550 entries - payment by check or money order only – make payable to Phoenix Bouldering Contest

Campground Information: Due to the large numbers of people & cars this event draws, the PBC and US Forest Service will place limitations on the availability of campsites and parking within the main campground. These limitations are designed to minimize traffic congestion and reduce the impact on the Oak Flats Campground. No Contestant and/or spectator vehicle will be allowed in the main campground area!!! No contestant or spectator camping will be allowed in the main campground area (including walk-in). We will direct you to campsites as you arrive.#2 All contestants and spectators will be expected to comply with the PBC’s regulations governing camping (e.g. no campfires, no vehicles off-road, etc.) These regulations, including a map will be distributed as you arrive. Please keep our relationship with the U.S. Forest Service a good one!

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS (TENTATIVE)

FRIDAY APRIL 3, 1998 Noon - 10pm MANDATORY CHECK-IN (on-sight registration, if available) 8 a.m. - 12 noon Vendor Setup 1 p.m. Vendor booths open (Great Deals!!!) 7:00 p.m. Clinics & other entertainment TBA 10:00 p.m. Quiet Please!!!

SATURDAY APRIL 4 6:00 a.m. Wake-Up call 7:00 a.m. MANDATORY general announcements for all competitors! 7:45 a.m. All competitors to starting area 8:00 a.m. Contest Begins 2:00 p.m. Contest Ends 3:00 p.m. Elite Artificial Wall comp Begins (Wall by Entreprises) All contestant scorecards must be turned in at stage. 6:00 p.m. Elite comp ends 6:30 p.m. Access Fund Auction 7:30 p.m. Awards Ceremony 9:00 p.m. BIG PARTY, Live music…

http://www.rocknroad.com/pbc

SUNDAY APRIL 5 (Scheduled Rain Date) 9:00 a.m. FREE pancake breakfast by: TRANGO 10:00 a.m. Campground Clean-up - PLEASE PITCH-IN!!!

CATEGORIES:

One category exists: Age. The PBC will enter all contestants into their appropriate age category within the gender and locale divisions. Age groups are: 13 & under, 14-19, 20-29, 30-39, 40-49, 50 & over. Bring Photo ID to verify age. When the scores are tabulated, the top 10 overall men and women will be awarded the top 10 PBC prizes. Remaining contestants will be ranked in their Age Group and awarded prizes based on rank.

ALL REGISTRANTS SHOULD BRING: WATER!!!! Shoes, Harness, Tape, Chalk, Sun block, & a BELAY DEVICE. All registrants must read and sign a Phoenix Bouldering Contest Waiver of Liability form at check-in. Minors (under 18) should contact the Phoenix Rock Gym (602) 921-8322 and have a waiver sent to them. Minors checking in on-sight must have a parent or legal guardian to sign the waiver. ALL CONTESTANT SPOTS ARE NON-TRANSFERABLE

Required by all: A VALID PHOTO ID (to verify age for the correct competition category). To expedite check-in please send a copy of the ID with your payment and registration form. SEND COMPLETED FORMS, with payment to PHOENIX BOULDERING CONTEST

HIGH DESERT — More Info, But Still Not Open…

Sean Stodelle reports on his recent conversations with the landowner out at High Desert:

“I have spoken to the land owner, and he explained what he wants to do regarding the area. The issue about the liability waivers is being addressed. He was trying to come up with a way to ensure that ALL parties would have a release waiver signed and on file. I mentioned to him about the way that Smith Rock runs their climbing/waiver issues: Each vehicle that comes into the park, climbing or not, MUST pay for a parking pass. This is only $3.00 and has the waiver on the back.

“The owner is also planning on having overnight camping, restrooms, etc. It was also mentioned that there may even be an annual pass option. Many will complain, but keep in mind that this is PRIVATE land. He had previously mentioned about charging for parking, so the $3.00 fee saves time by including the waiver on the back of the parking pass.

“The issue here is LIABILITY, not trespassing or making money for the owner, although it does help him out, with the maintenance costs for any facilities he builds.

“Note, not all climber’s at the Cemetery are trespassing, as the landowner has given PERSONAL permission to several people to climb. However, anyone else climbing here can, and will be fined or arrested.

“If we all work together, and respect what has been set forth thus far, perhaps we will ALL be enjoying this great area again real soon.”


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____________________ Issue #98-04 ____________________

09-Feb-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-04! SANTA MONICA MTNS — New Guidebook Available Next Week ACCESS FUND — Letter Writing Nights/Membership Drives SO CAL SANDSTONE — A Gentle Reminder PARTNERS WANTED

INTRODUCTION



SANTA MONICA MTNS — New Guidebook Available Next Week

The long-awaited new guidebook “mOthEr rOck’s Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas” by Louie Anderson is in final production and should be available next week. This guide covers more than 90 climbs at the Echo Cliffs and The Bluff areas in the Santa Monica Mountains.

Ask for the guide in the next month at a climbing shop near you, or to order it now, send a check or money order for $7.95 to mOthEr rOck

ACCESS FUND — Letter Writing Nights/Membership Drives


Reese Martin from The Access Fund will be holding two letter writing nights and Access Fund membership drives at a couple of climbing gyms in Los Angeles. He will answer your questions on the proposed Joshua Tree Backcountry Management Plan and The Access Fund, and help people write letters to the National Park Service to comment on the Plan. Those who write letters or join The Access Fund will participate in a raffle; booty includes T-shirts, hats, guidebooks, calendars, 1 month free memberships at the gyms, biners, chalk bags, etc.

The nights are:

Tuesday, February 17 — Rockreation on La Grange in West L.A. 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. (310) 207-7199

Thursday, February 19 — L.A. Rock Gym, 4926 W. Rosecrans, in Hawthorne 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. (310) 973-3388.

Scarpa will be doing a shoe demo at the gym the same night.

SO CAL SANDSTONE — A Gentle Reminder

With all the recent rains So Cal has been hammered with, it’s a good time to remember that our local sandstones, limestones, and breccia (as in the Santa Monica Mountains) have soaked up a lot of water during the rains and the stone has become extremely weak. This is especially true of the sandstone. In order for the stone to fully dry out and return to its original strength, it will need from a few days to a few weeks, depending on how much sun the rock gets, the temperature, and humidity. It is surprisingly easy to accidentally break holds and pull off flakes when the rock is in this condition. Holds can easily crumble under less than full body weight.

In the past, some climbers have significantly changed some of the problems at Stoney Point by climbing on them went they were wet. In addition, bolts have popped out of wet sandstone under body weight. At Malibu Creek, water was seen weeping out of a bolt hole for a couple of days after a big storm. The whole Ghetto area can weep out of pockets & cracks.

PARTNERS WANTED

If you’re looking for a partner in So Cal, E-mail the info to [email protected], and we’ll put it in the next issue of this E-mail newsletter. Good luck!

* Stephan Homerin–I’m a thirty-three year old Belgian climber who will be in California and Las Vegas in April. I’m looking for a partner. My climbing level is 5.11 to 5.12 sport. If you’re interested, E-mail me at [email protected]


mOthEr rOck MAIL, #98-05, 04-Mar-98 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #98-05 ____________________

04-Mar-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-05! SANTA MONICA MTNS — Trails Closed–Thanks, El Nino E.C. JOE — Life & Times at Southern Sierra High RANDY LEAVITT — Third Annual SSCA Slideshow SSCA — The Southern Sierra Climbers Association PEABODY BOULDERS — New Online Guide SANTA MONICA MTNS — New Guidebook Now Available JOSHUA TREE — Route Descriptions Available by E-mail ACCESS FUND — Regional Action Network EASTERN SIERRA — Happy Boulders Access PARTNERS REGISTRY — California Climbers Network

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals…but at least once or twice a month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by nearly 800 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail!


SANTA MONICA MTNS — Trails Closed–Thanks, El Nino

I’ve got some bad news: El Nino has devastated the trails in the Santa Monica Mountains N.R.A.


THE TRAILS TO ECHO CLIFFS AND BONEY BLUFF ARE CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.

I was on the phone this morning with a ranger at the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area. She told me that there have been widespread trail closures throughout the Santa Monica Mountains from erosion and flooding related to the recent El Nino deluges.

Of interest to climbers is the closure of the Mishe Mokwa trail and portions of the Backbone Ridge trail. The entire Mishe Mokwa trail is closed. The trail is washed out in several locations and will take a lot of work to fix. The Backbone Trail is closed just beyond the summit of Sandstone Peak.

Both trails are posted with closure signs and the N.P.S. is actively discouraging the public from using the trails & turning away hikers.

The Santa Monica N.R.A. Web site has the latest trail information: http://www.nps.gov/samo/

The NPS would like to coordinate with the Access Fund & other interested volunteers in doing some trail repair work once the threat of further rain is over and the area dries out. (Contributed by Reese Martin)

E.C. JOE — Life & Times at Southern Sierra High

Eddie ‘E.C.’ Joe, a native of Bakersfield, started rock climbing at local Kern Canyon crags in 1974. Since then, for Eddie climbing was never a hobby, but a lifestyle. He published the original ‘Stonemasher’ climbing guidebooks for both the Kern Slabs and the Needles areas in the early eighties. Eddie has climbed throughout California, works as a climbing equipment buyer/manager, instructs rock climbing, and guides climbs as well. Eddie has pioneered many of the Southern Sierra’s longest and most classic rock climbs. As a founding member of the Southern Sierra Climbers’ Association, Eddie has also helped work to keep climbing alive and well in the Southern Sierra.

Come join us for an evening tour of E.C. Joe’s Life & Times: Experiences in the Southern Sierra.

On Saturday, come out for an introductory rock climbing clinic, or just come out to demo the latest rock shoes!

Life & Times at Southern Sierra High Bigfoot Mountaineering Friday, March 20, 1998 - 8:00pm Gear Raffle!!! (one raffle entry w/each $5.00 donation) Free! Introductory Clinic/Demo at Kern Slabs. Bring Your Friends! Saturday, March 21, 1998 - 8:00am

http://www.nps.gov/samo/

RANDY LEAVITT — Third Annual SSCA Slideshow

On Saturday, June 13, renowned climber/adventurer Randy Leavitt will be the special presenter for the Third Annual SSCA Slideshow at the Ponderosa lodge, near the Needles of the Southern Sierra. This show will be a must see! The show will start at 8:30 p.m. Stay tuned for more details!

$ 5.00 Donation Requested

$15.00 Donation will get you a SSCA Membership

T-shirts will be available for, $10:00 or bring your own and we’ll screen it for a small fee. All donations are for the Southern Sierra Climber’s Association, a non-profit, pro-active climber advocacy group helping to preserve and improve our climbing areas. All of these program’s proceeds are used to improve and preserve our climbing areas in the Southern Sierra.

SSCA — The Southern Sierra Climbers Association

The Southern Sierra Climbers Association (SSCA) is a local conservation and advocacy organization which represents the interests of hundreds of rock and mountain climbers who access the Southern Sierra and other areas of Southern California every year. The mission of the SSCA is to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment. The SSCA wishes to work closely with land managers in order to solve problems, maintain and improve the climbing environment, and help educate the general public and other climbers on matters of scientific importance and safety.

For more information, write to:

Patrick Paul SSCA President 1180 E. Putnam Porterville, CA 93257 Or call 209-781-6524.

PEABODY BOULDERS — New Online Guide

Our friends at The Bouldering Domain have published a new online climbing guide to the classic Peabody Boulders at The Buttermilks in the Eastern Sierra. Check it out at: www.bouldering.com…and coming soon, they say, an online guide to the Volcanic Tablelands!

SANTA MONICA MTNS — New Guidebook Now Available

The long-awaited new guidebook “mOthEr rOck’s Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas” by Louie Anderson is now available! This guide covers more than 90 climbs at the Echo Cliffs and The Bluff areas in the Santa Monica Mountains.

The guide is currently available at LA Rock Gym, Nomad in Joshua Tree, and through Chessler Books. It will also be available at more climbing shops over the next several weeks.

Ask for the guide at a climbing shop near you, or if you really need to order it now, send a check or money order for $7.95 to mOthEr rOck.

JOSHUA TREE — Route Descriptions Available by E-mail

Over the last 20 years, I have climbed approximately 1,500 routes at Joshua Tree (far fewer than what Todd Gordon or Alan Bartlett have done, but still quite a lot). I have written up comments on more than 1,000 of those climbs–typically one to three sentences that describe the nature and quality of the climbing, the level of protection, and whether or not the climb gets morning sun. These comments are contained in a single Word file. I would be happy to E-mail a copy of this file to anyone. My E-mail address is [email protected]. I also have a (smaller) Word document giving comments on climbs at Suicide Rock, and am happy to send free copies of this document as well. (Contributed by Roger Linfield)

ACCESS FUND — Regional Action Network

The Access Fund’s Regional Coordinator Network is the cornerstone of our support for grassroots climber activism and is one of our primary resources utilized in keeping climbing areas open.

As trained experts in access issues, Regional Coordinators act as the principal liaisons in your area for representing climbers’ interests on both public and private lands. In addition, Regional Coordinators can provide expertise on a wealth of related subjects, from organizing conservation or trail-building projects to the acquisition of a threatened crag.

The volunteers who serve as Regional Coordinators are committed to providing climbers with solutions that will preserve America’s diverse climbing resources for future generations.

If you’ve got an access concern or know of a threatened crag in your region, contact your Regional Coordinator. It’s the first step to keeping our crags open!

California-Southern Region

Randy Vogel 24411 Ridge Route Dr, Ste 215


Laguna Hills, CA 92653 714/380-1516 (w) 714/768-0180 (f) [email protected]

and

Reese Martin 3147 Island View Dr Ventura, CA 93003 805/385-4808 (w) 805/487-7051 (f) [email protected]

California-San Diego Region

Mike Brown 525-163 W El Norte Parkway Escondido, CA 92026 619/743-2928 (h)

California-Northern Region

Paul Minault 1632 Cornell Avenue Berkeley, CA 94702 415/397-6152 (w) 415/788-5768 (f) 510/525-4281 (h) [email protected]

EASTERN SIERRA — Happy Boulders Access

The BLM is getting worried about the Happy Boulders. People, climbers mostly, continue to approach from above, and in doing so keep pushing the use roads farther and farther. BLM rangers have bothered to ask the folks at the local mountain shop to tell climbers to use the Chalk Bluff Road parking area as the main approach. This makes sense anyway: While it takes longer to walk in this way, the drive time is shorter. (Contributed by Todd Vogel)

PARTNERS REGISTRY — California Climbers Network

Looking for a partner? The California Climbers Network has an extensive partners registry on the Web at www.climbnet.com/ccn/partners/partners.html




http://www.climbnet.com/ccn/partners/partners.html


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #98-06 ____________________

10-Mar-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-06! HIGHWAY 33 — El Nino Landslide Closes Climbing Access SANTA MONICAS — More Info on Trail Closures BEYOND SO CAL — New World Record in the Slovak Republic

INTRODUCTION



HIGHWAY 33 — El Nino Landslide Closes Climbing Access

Highway 33 out of Ojai recently experienced a MASSIVE El Nino related landslide. The slide has covered almost 1/4 mile of the road beyond Matilija Springs Campground. Highway 33 is closed at the campground. This shuts down road access to Pine Mountain, Rose Valley, most of the upper Sespe & Sespe Gorge. Caltrans is talking like they may not get the road open till August! I suspect that’s awfully conservative; the last big slide only took a few weeks to clean up after the rains quit. Realistically, they’ll likely get it open in May/June. Actually that’s not too bad, since it takes till then anyway for the US Forest Service to open the gate on the Pine Mtn. road. Check the CALTRANS website http://www.dot.ca.gov/ for updates. (contributed by Reese Martin)

SANTA MONICAS — More Info on Trail Closures


http://www.dot.ca.gov/

Here’s an update on the trail closure situation in the Santa Monica Mountains:

* The closures of the Mishe Mokwa & Backbone Ridge trails in the SMMNRA have closed ALL legal climbing access to Echo Cliffs and Boney Bluff. Climbers who now go to the cliffs are violating the closures & trespassing. * A ranger I spoke with at the trailhead said they closed the trails to protect them from further damage (erosion) by hikers, not for safety reasons. This is a serious resource protection issue for the Park Service. Seasonal closures for resource/erosion protection are standard practice after wet winters in the SMMNRA. * The trails will not be re-opened until the soil dries out and they can be repaired. It is unclear as to when this will occur, or if they will re-open the trails before trail work is done. * I’ve spoken with a representative of the Santa Monica Trails Council, who said they plan to work on the Mishe Mokwa trail on June 29th, 1998. (If the trail stays closed till the end June there will be NO legal spring climbing season at Echo Cliffs or Boney Bluff). The representative said that if the Access Fund wants to work on the trail earlier, they will help us set it up. * The trails are not in all that bad of shape. They have some erosion, but are still there, with some minor slides. They are quite soft in places, but nowhere near as bad as the Park person on the phone led me to believe. To me the closure is an over-reaction by Park personnel and with little technical merit on the “Protecting the trail resource” arguments. * Parties of climbers are openly violating the trail closure. The rangers know it and are quite frustrated about climbers who are flaunting the closure signs. One ranger said that there was no real way to keep people out unless they station rangers at the trailheads.

This may become a real source of friction between climbers and Park management till things dry out, especially since Louie Anderson’s new guide has specific requests from Mike Maki of the Park Service in asking climbers to respect resource related closures.

I am concerned that most climbers will NOT voluntarily respect the closure once they find out the trail is in okay shape, or have driven to the trailhead.

The best course of action is to pro-actively work with Park management and The Santa Monica Trails Council to organize a trail-work party ASAP. (Contributed by Reese Martin)

BEYOND SO CAL — New World Record in the Slovak Republic

The Valley of Zadiel is one of the most outstanding spots of the Slovak Karst (in the Slovak Republic). The rocky gorge, 3 kilometres long and 400 metres deep, is famous not only for its natural beauty, but for its attractive climbable terrain as well.

In the second half of the last summer (20 - 24 August 1997), this silent valley became a destination of many cavers and mountain climbers from Slovakia and other foreign countries. The valley enticed many people to take part in a great event–named simply the

Superlong Tyrolean, which was organized by the Technical Committee of the Slovak Speleological Society (SSS).

The Superlong Tyrolean was an attempt to span the valley with the longest rope ever in the world. There had been a valley in the United States spanned with a rope before; however, the total length was “only” 260 metres. The Superlong Tyrolean in the Slovak Republic was 864.67 metres long. The father of the idea and one of the main organizers of the event was Gustav Stibranyi, a renowned personality among Slovak speleologists and the chairman of the Technical Committee of the SSS.

A successful realization of this courageous project required an experienced preparatory team which had been working strenuously for a year to make the necessary arrangements and solve all the possible problems, such as obtaining a permit from the Ministry of Environment as the Valley of Zadiel is a national nature reserve; finding a suitable rope; stretching the rope over the valley and anchoring it; securing all the strict measures required by environmentalists; and many more small but inevitable preparations.

Bridging the valley was carried out in three stages. The first rope made from dynema and 1.3 mm thick was stretched over the valley by a helicopter after a polyamide rope of the same thickness had failed. The third main rope, stretched by means of the second thin 5-millimetre-thick auxiliary rope, was a 12-millimetre-thick superstatic polyamide rope which was 909 metres long and weighed 90 kilograms. It was produced in the Czech Republic by LANEX Bolatice. It was anchored on one side of the gorge by a Danish ship winch, which served as a stress-free anchor. In spite of its loading capacity of 3,000 kilograms, it was being loaded only in the range between 600 and 700 kilograms during climbing, which was controlled by a digital dynamometer.

The traversing of the Superlong Tyrolean was acknowledged as the world record and registered in the Guinness Book of Records. For three days in August, more than 15,000 spectators watched 44 climbers in their experiment to overcome the valley at a height of 350 metres. The shortest recorded was 8 minutes and 31 seconds. Before traversing the valley, each climber had to earn the approval of the Committee by traversing a small 220-metre-long traverse stretched in the mouth of the valley. Finally, the Small Traverse, constructed the same way as the Superlong Tyrolean, was completed by 88 climbers. All the people who participated in the event considered it an extraordinary and rare experience. Therefore, I deeply believe that the documentary made about this event is going to be an interesting experience for those who may have a chance to see it at one of the mountain film festivals or anywhere else. (Contributed by Radko Donka).


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #98-07 ____________________

15-Mar-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-07! TURTLE ROCK — Orange County Bouldering Area Closed JOSHUA TREE — Update on Proposed Bolting Ban BANFF FILM FESTIVAL — Coming to a Theater Near You ROYAL ROBBINS — Celebrating the Art of Wandering

INTRODUCTION



TURTLE ROCK — Orange County Bouldering Area Closed

Turtle Rock, the small bouldering area in Orange County, is now off limits to climbing. A sign near the rock says that it has been closed to protect the rock itself, which is of significance to Native Americans.

The Access Fund is looking in to the closure, and mOthEr rOck will keep you posted on the outcome. Meanwhile, please respect this closure.

JOSHUA TREE — Update on Proposed Bolting Ban


The public comment period is over, but climbers can still exert some pressure on the Park Service. The best way to do this is to write to Congressman Jerry Lewis, US House of Representatives, Washington, D.C. 20215. Tell Lewis that the proposed ban on climbers’ safety equipment at Joshua Tree will have a profound, negative effect on public safety in the Park and on local businesses, which benefit from Joshua Tree’s status as the world’s most popular climbing area. Tell Lewis that you support reasonable restrictions which are REALLY necessary to protect Joshua Tree’s resources, but not restrictions based solely on opinions of NPS staff (as opposed to results of field studies) or subjective interpretation of existing guidance and regulations.

The Friends of Joshua Tree and The Access Fund have negotiated a joint statement with the Wilderness Society and the National Parks & Conservation Association that supports an alternative climbing policy for Joshua Tree. This statement preserves the freedom to place new fixed anchors in Joshua Tree Wilderness, although this activity would be restricted by permit and some sites (generally not of much interest to climbers) would be designated “No Fixed Anchor Zones.” We have submitted this to the Park Service as part of our comments on the Backcountry & Wilderness Management Plan. We will be meeting with Superintendent Quintana later this month to discuss. (Contributed by Sam Davidson, The Access Fund)

BANFF FILM FESTIVAL — Coming to a Theater Near You

Couldn’t make it up to Canada for the 22nd Annual Banff Festival of Mountain Films? Me neither. But we’re in luck: the Best of the Festival Tour is coming to town!

March 18th, 7:00 p.m. Aero Theater, 1328 Montana Ave., Santa Monica March 19th, 7:00 p.m. La Poloma Theater, Encinitas March 24th, 7:00 p.m. Robert E. Moore Theater, Orange Coast College, Costa Mesa March 25th, 7:00 p.m. Montezuma Hall, San Diego State University Tickets are $8.50 in advance, $9.50 at the door; $7.00 for students with valid I.D. Advance tickets are available at all Adventure 16 stores; SDSU’s box office will sell advanced tickets for the March 25th event only. Precluding a sell-out, tickets will be available at the door (all shows).

ROYAL ROBBINS — Celebrating the Art of Wandering

Join rock climbing legend Royal Robbins for an evening celebrating a life dedicated to climbing and other outdoor adventures. This is a free event sponsored by Adventure 16.

March 30th, 7:00 p.m. Adventure 16, San Diego store March 31st, 7:00 p.m.

Adventure 16, Orange County store April 1st, 7:00 p.m. Adventure 16, San Fernando Valley store April 2nd, 7:00 p.m. Adventure 16, West Los Angeles store


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #98-08 ____________________ 19-Mar-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-08! BANFF FILM FESTIVAL — Coming to Bishop HORSE FLATS — Conditions Are Great, Lots of New Activity DESPONDENTS — New Bouldering in the Eastern Sierra ENCHANTMENT RIDGE — Free Bouldering Guide for Loyal Subscribers! PALM SPRINGS — New Multi-Pitch Route E.C. JOE — Life & Times at Southern Sierra High

INTRODUCTION



BANFF FILM FESTIVAL — Coming to Bishop

Wilson’s Eastside Sports is sponsoring the Best of the Banff Festival in Bishop on March 27th and March 28th at 7 p.m. at the Bishop High School Auditorium. Tickets are availible at Wilsons in Bishop or the Booky Joint in Mammoth Lakes. The word is this years films are hot. Also appearing that weekend is the 11th annual Buttermilk Rock Shoe Demo, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at the Buttermilk Boulders. Participants include Five.Ten, Scarpa, La Sportiva, and Boreal. For more information, call Wilson’s Eastside Sports at 760-873-7520.

HORSE FLATS — Conditions Are Great, Lots of New Activity


The big news from So Cal is yes, conditions at Horse Flats are snow-free and awesome! The campground remains closed, so a brief walk from the road is required, adding a little more cardio to a great overall workout. Last week during our warm spell, I was running around shirtless while small patches of snow remained on the northern shady slopes. I put up a couple of new problems and worked on my endless projects.

One particular line is destined to be a Horse Flats classic. I call it “All This Time I Was an Actor,” V5. This problem is on big boulder behind the Pie Slice Rock. This boulder is a good one, on which I added other lines last year. The “Actor” problem takes on an undercut face via crimpy crystals. A long lunge to a miserable sloping edge is needed to rock over onto the face while pinching tiny embedded pebbles. Both Wills Young and Russel Erickson repeated it, finding a different sequence and dropping the grade from what I was sure must be at least V7.

The big flake sit start to “All This Time I Was an Actor” has gone ringing in at hard V8.

From this same flake is my super dyno project, “The Slicer”. The flake is huge, the footing desperate, and the distance to the next edge…well let’s just say Thailand is closer! From the stand-in this problem is called “Pumpkin Pie,” V3, delicious with a good cup of Joe. The shaded, slightly overhanging western side of this boulder is home to “By the Teeth of My Skin,” V6, a rising traverse along the barely featured lip, ending with an exhilarating mantle. Two scary new lines have also gone on the west side of this fine boulder. Both problems take tricky mantles to crimpy slabs over jagged manzanita bushes. Both are V3; the left corner (”Fix Bayonets, You’re Going Over the Top”) is the scariest because the manzanita has died and all that remains are the sharp branches arching skyward; the right side is called “Lion Heart.” The Pie Slice Area is up and coming!!

The Main Area has been getting further ticks as well, including a new low dyno that Wills added that goes off faint crimps on the left side of the B1 Traverse boulder. I’m not sure of the grade, but when I too repeat it I’ll give you an answer. The foot Wills uses to push off has me too cramped up, so I’m trying it in a different manner. Wills reckons it’s not as hard to stick as the “Blank Generation.”

The B1 Traverse Boulder is the well textured gem of the area, with loads of lines everywhere on it. In our search for complete manipulation, I explored some bold new territory on the southeast side. There is a good lunge off a sloping ledge that goes at V2. From this same ledge, I started with my hands crossed and reached for a sloping pinch out left. Over a totally ill drop zone I make a big swinging lunge to a big bucket up and left. The problem is hairball and somewhat silly, but it does now exist if only to further add to my big reach “legend.” “The Campus Hero,” V4?R, has yet to see a second…any takers?

The “Blank Generation,” which has yet to see a third ascent and has been repelling some strong climbers, is now checking in at a solid V10; the sit start may indeed be V11. I recently got the second ascent of Wills’ “Orange Flambe,” V7, in end-of-the-day epic

style, throwing for a sucker sloper and dangling off a left hand crimp…I refused to let go and went for it way off the deck. Well worth it. (contributed by James March)

DESPONDENTS — New Bouldering in the Eastern Sierra

Sick of all the hype regarding the Happy Boulders, and rumors about the Sad Boulders? Our friends at Fish have the solution: an on-line guide to the Despondent Boulders, yet another place to shred your tips in the volcanic tablelands near Bishop. Check it out at: http://members.aol.com/fishprods/main.html

ENCHANTMENT RIDGE — Free Bouldering Guide for Loyal Subscribers!

Be sure to check out Wills Young’s article on Pine Mountain in the latest issue of Climbing Magazine. And there’s even more than what he covers in his article. In fact, Enchantment Ridge boasts more than 120 problems. The next issue (#11) of mOthEr rOck magazine will have a special insert for our loyal subscribers–a detailed pull-out mini-guide to the approx. 120 problems at Enchantment Ridge, written by Reese Martin. This issue will be available in a few weeks. Subscribe now so you won’t miss a thing!

PALM SPRINGS — New Multi-Pitch Route

Mike Rigney, Rob Stauder, Bob Cable, and Brad Singer recently put up a new 4-pitch route at the Palm Springs Waterfall Slab. It goes at 5.10a, 5.10c, 5.7, and 5.4, with 23 bolts for protection. It follows a very prominent black streak up the center of the formation, and is accordingly named “La Vena Negra.” The crux is turning a roof on the second pitch. (Contributed by Brad Singer)

E.C. JOE — Life & Times at Southern Sierra High

(mOthEr rOck Mail announced the following event in the March 4th issue, but forgot to include the address. Here again is the announcement, this time including contact information for Bigfoot Mountaineering).

Eddie ‘E.C.’ Joe, a native of Bakersfield, started rock climbing at local Kern Canyon crags in 1974. Since then, for Eddie climbing was never a hobby, but a lifestyle. He published the original ‘Stonemasher’ climbing guidebooks for both the Kern Slabs and the Needles areas in the early eighties. Eddie has climbed throughout California, works as a climbing equipment buyer/manager, instructs rock climbing, and guides climbs as well. Eddie has pioneered many of the Southern Sierra’s longest and most classic rock climbs. As a founding member of the Southern Sierra Climbers’ Association, Eddie has also helped work to keep climbing alive and well in the Southern Sierra.

Come join us for an evening tour of E.C. Joe’s Life & Times: Experiences in the Southern Sierra.

http://members.aol.com/fishprods/main.html

On Saturday, come out for an introductory rock climbing clinic, or just come out to demo the latest rock shoes!

Life & Times at Southern Sierra High Friday, March 20, 1998 - 8:00pm Gear Raffle!!! (one raffle entry w/each $5.00 donation)

Bigfoot Mountaineering 2500 New Stine Road Bakersfield, CA 93309 Phone: 805-834-4314 Fax: 805-834-9287 E-mail: [email protected]

Free! Introductory Clinic/Demo at Kern Slabs. Bring Your Friends! Saturday, March 21, 1998 - 8:00am


mOthEr rOck MAIL, #98-09, 15-Apr-98 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________

News & information about climbing in and around Southern California ____________________ Issue #98-09 ____________________

15-Apr-98

In This Issue…

SAN LUIS OBISPO — Local Update PHOENIX BOULDERING CONTEST—Results COMING SOON — JCCA/BlueWater Junior Competition Series SANTA MONICAS — Trails Open SANTA MONICAS — Trail Work Party Scheduled PAUL PETZOLDT — 90th Birthday Celebration SUPERLONG TYROLEAN — Coming to Video LITTLE COTTONWOOD — Climbing in Danger BAY AREA COMPETITION — Touchstone’s US Invitational ACCESS FUND — 1998 Climber Rendezvous in Seattle

SAN LUIS OBISPO — Local Update

Owl’s Torr/Silly Rock/Mr. Lees/etc. is closed right now. According to Brandon Thau, the little stream is a raging torrent and washed out the access roads to the area. Give the area a few months to be re-graded.

Cal Poly ASI outings is having a gear sale this Friday & Saturday. Items on sale include kayaks, canoes, stoves, lanterns, sleeping bags, crampons, ice axes, tents, XC skis, paddles, bike paniers, dry bags, mega-mids, climbing shoes, helmets, ridgerests, and all sorts of outdoor stuff. Call 805 756-1287 for all of the juicy details. (Contributed by Matt Pollard).

PHOENIX BOULDERING CONTEST—Results

At least there was one thing everyone could agree on: the weather was great. Beyond that, there are a lot of diverse opinions we’ve been hearing about the 1998 Phoenix Bouldering Contest–mostly negative.

Congrats are in order to So Cal’s very own Wills Young, for taking first place in the event. Way to go, Wills!

Complete results have been on the Web for a while. Check them out at: www.rocknroad.com/pbc

COMING SOON — JCCA/BlueWater Junior Competition Series

Southwest Regional Events: - April 18, Palm Springs, CA. For info, call 760-320-6630. - May 2, Tempe, AZ. For info, call 602-902-0718. - May 16, Tucson, AZ. For info, call 520-882-5924. - May 30, Las Vegas, NV. For info, call 702-434-3388. - June 13, Los Angeles, CA. For info, call 310-973-3388. - July 11, Las Vegas, NV. For info, call 702-254-5604.

Regional Championship: - July 25, Long Beach, CA. For info, call 562-983-5500.

Northern California Regional Events: - April 4, Santa Cruz, CA. For info, call 408-454-9269. - April 18, Santa Rosa, CA. For info, call 707-573-1608. - May 2, San Rafael, CA. For info, call 415-485-6931. - May 16, Emeryville, CA. For info, call 415-485-6931. - May 30, San Francisco, CA. For info, call 415-485-6931. - June 20, Davis, CA. For info, call 530-757-2902. - July 11, Sand City, CA. For info, call 408-899-2595.

Regional Championship: - July 25, Rancho Cordova, CA. For info, call 916-638-4605.

SANTA MONICAS — Trails Open

THE TRAIL TO ECHO CLIFFS IS NOW OPEN. I learned today from the Woody Smit, the maintenance ranger for the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, that the Mishe Mokwa Trail is once again open to foot traffic. The Backbone Trail is also open.

For further info on other trails, the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area Web site has the latest trail information: www.nps.gov/samo/ (Contributed by Louie Anderson).

SANTA MONICAS — Trail Work Party Scheduled

We’ve scheduled a trail work party to fix up the damaged Mishe Mokwa trail in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area for Saturday, June 27, starting at 8 a.m. The National Park Service will supply some tools and supervision. Climbers will be doing this volunteer trail work as a cooperative effort of the Access Fund, Santa Monica Trails

http://www.rocknroad.com/pbc

http://www.nps.gov/samo/

Council, the Sierra Club, and the National Park Service. Stay tuned to mOthEr rOck for more details. (Contributed by Reese Martin).

PAUL PETZOLDT — 90th Birthday Celebration

This June 25th-27th, 1998, Grand Targhee Ski and Summer Resort will be hosting the 90th Birthday Festival for Paul Petzoldt, pioneer in climbing, mountaineering, and outdoor education. Petzoldt was the first person to offer guided climbing in Grand Teton National Park, as well as the founder of the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS).

The three-day event will include historical films, NOLS stories, and daily talks with Petzoldt himself. The celebration will also be an opportunity to meet with Petzoldt’s friends and colleagues, and other guest speakers who will share stories and accounts of his life and accomplishments. Anyone who has a story or personal contribution about Petzoldt is invited to participate during the festival.

The National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) and Grand Targhee Ski and Summer Resort are sponsoring the festival. Grand Targhee, located in Alta, WY, is a year-round resort offering lodging and seasonal activities in the Teton Region. People interested in attending the festival can contact Grand Targhee for lodging and meal information at 1-800-TARGHEE (827-4433).

SUPERLONG TYROLEAN — Coming to Video

(The following is an update to an item that appeared in mOthEr rOck Mail #98-06, 10-Mar-98, titled “BEYOND SO CAL — New World Record in the Slovak Republic.” A professional documentary film about the Superlong Tyrolean in the Slovak Republic has been produced. The film should be presented on the 20th Annual Mountainfilm in Telluride.

Can’t make it to Telluride? The video is 25 minutes long and costs U.S.$9 plus postage. For ordering information, E-mail [email protected].

LITTLE COTTONWOOD — Climbing in Danger

Climbing at Little Cottonwood in Utah is in trouble. The Mormon Church has decided to build a new meeting hall, and plans to use granite from Little Cottonwood Canyon for sentimental reasons. Other sources of granite are available, but the Church feels that using granite from the same area that the original temple rock was quarried from would provide a cultural tie to the past.

The problem is that the church owns and plans to demolish the Gate Buttress and Green Adjective Wall areas, the center and most popular portion of the Little Cottonwood climbing area. In order to do this, they need to get approval from the Salt Lake County Planning Commission. There is a lot of local opposition to this plan, as you can imagine.


Objections have been focused on the noise, dust, and traffic problems associated with the quarry, with secondary emphasis put on climbing issues.

Letters to the Planning Commission (Fax: 801-468-2169) would be most appreciated, especially those from out of state climbers pointing out the world class nature of Wasatch granite, how people are attracted from out of state to climb, how the climbing is a source of tourism, and the significance of that particular part of the Canyon. The Church has refused several offers from the Forest Service to do a land swap to turn that area into public land. Perhaps enough resistance to this plan could convince them to reconsider. Things are happening fast and it is important that comments come in quickly.

BAY AREA COMPETITION — Touchstone’s US Invitational

Touchstone’s US invitational!!! (Touchstone is the owner of Mission Cliffs, City Rock, and Class 5 gyms in the Bay Area.)

Touchstone is committing to AT LEAST the prize purse of a U.S. National. If sponsorship grows, Touchstone will be moving to invite International climbers as well.

There will be a red point route, an onsight route, and a “time pressure difficulty route”. Competitors overall finishing will be determined by placement on all three routes. Event will take place all on Saturday, November 14th, 1998.

Right now the plan is to invite seven women and seven men. During the week before, there will be an open round for three other people to qualify.

Sponsorship inquires, and other event information can be directed to Hans Florine at 510-376-1640.

Here comes the “Arco RockMaster of the U.S.”!

ACCESS FUND — 1998 Climber Rendezvous in Seattle

Seattle is a climber-crazed town. The glacier covered Cascade and Olympic Mountains are less than an one hour drive away. There is a huge weekend warrior climbing population, and climbing news often makes the front page of the Seattle Times. Seattle has been the crucible from which many of the most successful American alpinists in the past 60 years have emerged. Lightweights like Fred Beckey, Jim Whittaker, Jon Krakauer, Jim Wickwire, Pete Schoening, Steve Swenson, Todd Bibler, Brian Burdo, Russel Erickson, and Mark Bebie, to name just a few, came from the Seattle area.

Schedule of Events: Thursday, May 14, 1998 Access Fund Staff and Board arriving 8 p.m. Slideshow Patagonia-Seattle, 2100 First Avenue, Seattle, WA.

206-622-9700 Join Armando Menocal for spectacular portraits of the Himalayas and a moving discussion of Nepal’s leap from an isolated kingdom with its Shangri-La image to the world capital of adventure travel, and with it, a gritty 20th century reality: pollution, MTV, child labor, girl trafficking, expedition reporting in Vogue and Vanity Fair of celebrity-climbers, and the exploitation of “eco”-trekking and “cause” expeditions. Menocal, a longtime human rights and environmental activist, has climbed, lived, and worked in the Himalayas since 1979.

7 p.m. “An Evening with Jon Krakauer” at the University of Washington, Kane Hall room 130. Seats 700 people, donations accepted at the door. All proceeds will go directly to the Access Fund, and Jon will match all donations made that night.

Friday, May 15th, 1998, through Sunday, May 17th, 1998 Corporate Partners of the Access Fund will be hosting clinics, demonstrations, slideshows, poster signings, etc. at the REI store, 222 Yale Ave. North, Seattle. The tentative schedule is: Friday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday 11:00 a.m.-6 p.m.

Friday, May 15th, 1998 9 a.m. Access Fund Staff and Board to set up Basecamp on Terrace of REI. Basecamp will run 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday, Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Corporate Partner activities at REI

1 p.m. to 3 p.m. Meeting of legal committee to discuss potential litigation re: BLM Wilderness Regulations and the Forest Service’s actions in the Sawtooths. (Anyone other than legal committee members and officers who wish to attend should contact The Access Fund in advance in order that adequate space is reserved).

5:30 p.m. Access Fund Forum on local issues, headed by Board member and Regional Coordinator Andy Fitz. Held at REI meeting rooms.

7 p.m. to 1 a.m. Access Fund dinner at the Mountaineers building, 300 Third Ave. West, Seattle WA 98119.

Saturday, May 16th, 1998 8 a.m. to 5p.m. Access Fund Board Meeting, REI meeting rooms10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Corporate Partner activities8 p.m. slideshow at the Mountaineers with Conrad Anker of the North Face detailing his recent Antarctica expedition to Queen Maud Land; Doors open at 6:30 p.m. and we will have free beer!

9:30 p.m. Live memorabilia and gear auction

Sunday, May 17th, 1998 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. National Access Forum on user fees, REI store meeting room. Afternoon clean-up at Mt. Index town wall.

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #98-10, 01-June-98 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


01-June-98

In This Issue…

NEW JACK CITY – Update SNOW VALLEY — Forest Service Approves Permit for 1998 Boulderfest HORSE FLATS—Update THE INDIFFERENT BOULDERS — New High Mountain Bouldering MORE? — Yet Another New Bouldering Area Discovered MILL WASH – Update KELLER PEAK — Road Update RANDY LEAVITT — Twenty Years of Climbing ABOVE THE SMOGLINE — New Video Covers Climbing In and Around LA FRUSTRATION CREEK — New Route; Mini-Guide Coming MINI-GUIDE — Bouldering at Enlightenment Ridge MARGARITAVILLE — Public Apology

NEW JACK CITY – Update

Matt Hoch recently tore up the Road Side Crag at New Jack City. He either onsighted or redpointed within two tries most of the routes, including two 5.12b’s and a 5.12d.

New Jack Boulders–check out this hot new bouldering area. Many HARD problems on good rock. Looks to be about 40 -50 problems. More information will be made available soon.

Also, desert tortoises have been seen there near the climbing areas. Just to let everyone know, please don’t pick up or harass these guys. When you mess with them, they some times piss all of their stored up water out, and in the Mojave Desert this means almost certain death. So let’s give them a wide berth.

SNOW VALLEY — Forest Service Approves Permit for 1998 Boulderfest

The US Forest Service has given tentative approval of the permit requested by the Rim of the World Climbing Club (ROWCC) for the 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest and Trash Clean-up. The 1998 Boulderfest will be held on October 3rd, 1998. For more information, E-mail [email protected], or check out the ROWCC’s new Web site


at: http://www.geocities.com/~rowcc

Meanwhile, Issue #12 (May/June 1998) of mOthEr rOck magazine is at the printer right now, and will be mailed this week. It includes a special pull-out mini-guide to bouldering at Call of the West, one of the clumps of boulders up at Snow Valley.

And if that’s not enough, check out the new section of the mOthEr rOck Web site where we’re starting to post animations of boulder problems. So far, we’ve posted two: James march on “The Wall of Voodoo,” and Enrique Yaptenco on “Pineball.”

http://members.aol.com/motherrock/ani.html

HORSE FLATS—Update

A posse of strong climbers from Five.Ten visited Horse Flats a couple of weeks ago. Present were Chris Sharma and Tommy Cadwell, whom took little time in cranking off the testpiece “Blank Generation,” V10, from the sit start. This brings the tally of ascents to five (three using the sit start), with Matt Hoch claiming the third of the dyno via an unconventional dynamic hand matching on the top jug. Sharma and Caldwell also repeated the classics, “Sword of Damocles,” V8, and “Orange Flambe,” V7/8. Sharma got the second ascent of the scary “With All Due Respect,” V6, which he did by traversing left off the “Sword of Damocles” arete. Sharma also repeated a hard dyno that Wills Young put up on the left hand side of the “B1 Traverse”, and attempted a new line straight up and left through a blank overhang. Also tried with close but unsuccessful attempts was a new project on the Orange Flambe Boulder by the path, which is being referred to as a similar to “Karma” at Fontainbleu. James March added a couple of nice moderate lines on the back of the Fang Boulder (home of “Zack’s Roof Problem,” V5); these go around V3/4. March is also working on many hard projects at the “Flats.”

THE INDIFFERENT BOULDERS — New High Mountain Bouldering

All we can tell you is that the access is great, the elevation is high, and the boulders are extremely rough. Development is ongoing, and as of June 1st there were about 40 established problems, and 120 unclimbed projects. Until then, check out a couple pictures at:

http://members.aol.com/motherrock/indif.html

More photos will be posted soon, and as soon as some more of the lines get cleaned and climbed, we’ll publish a mini-guide in a future issue of mOthEr rOck magazine.

MORE? — Yet Another New Bouldering Area Discovered

http://members.aol.com/motherrock/ani.html

http://members.aol.com/motherrock/indif.html

Yet another bouldering area in the mountains has been found. This area is a little limited, but is definitely worth checking out. Super featured granite boulders with great landing. Many good steep, moderate jug hauls. More info to come…

Meanwhile, check out the picture:

http://members.aol.com/motherrock/newboulder.JPG

MILL WASH – Update

The sandstone boulders and crag in Mill Wash are seemingly impossible to get to due to the raging river. Aaron Rough recently walked about two miles up and down the banks and couldn’t find anywhere to cross. As soon as the river calms down, he’ll finish up the topos, and we’ll publish them some time this summer in mOthEr rOck magazine.

The Mill Wash Boulder–the big one we published a topo of several issues ago in mOthEr rOck magazine–now has a “No Trespassing” sign posted at the pull out. However, you can still approach the rock via the Mill Creek Road entrance.

KELLER PEAK — Road Update

As of last weekend, access to Keller Peak Road was on-again, off-again as the gate was sometimes open and sometimes closed. Even with the gate closed, you can still access the lower crags like Lord of the Flies and Dinosaur Rock by way of a short walk up the paved road, and the upper crags like the Hungover Wall (the crag commonly called “Keller Peak” in most local guidebooks) and Children’s Forest can be reached by mountain bike. We’ve heard reports of lots of debris on the road from the winter, but it appears that the road will be cleared and opened soon.

RANDY LEAVITT — Twenty Years of Climbing

Saturday, June 13, 8:30 p.m., presented by the Southern Sierra Climbers’ Association, at Pete Brewer’s Ponderosa Lodge, near the Needles of California. - Shoe Demo– 8:00 a.m. at the lodge - Live music starting at 6:00 p.m. - Raffle and Silent auction! - A $5:00 dollar donation is requested for each raffle ticket. - Buy three tickets and receive and SSCA membership. - T-shirts are $10:00, or bring your own and we’ll screen it for you for a nominal fee. - All proceeds go toward current and future projects of the SSCA

For more information call Rene Ardesch at 209-592-2419

ABOVE THE SMOGLINE — New Video Covers Climbing In and Around LA

http://members.aol.com/motherrock/newboulder.JPG

Finally, an action-packed climbing video shot completely around So Cal! Wills Young at the Swimming Hole, Troy Mayr at Mt. Williamson, Scott Cosgrove at Joshua Tree, and much, much more. See the review in Issue #12 of mOthEr rOck magazine, or contact Mad Grip Productions for more information or to order. Mad Grip Productions Tel.: 310-753-9363 E-mail: [email protected]

FRUSTRATION CREEK — New Route; Mini-Guide Coming

Frustration Creek now has a new route. It’s just right of the 10c/d. It’s an 8 bolt + anchors 11b called “Eco-Challenge” (FA: Aaron Rough). The rock is a little loose in some spots, but it is definitely worth checking out. Great continuous moves on vertical with two bulge cruxes. Two fat cold shut easy rap hangers on top. Try it!

Someone recently snaked the fixed rope to the Main Wall at Frustration. It now takes a wet psycho free solo to get up there. Trust me, it’s not fun with a pack and stick clip. But we hear that someone is planning on bolting a short approach pitch where the fixed line used to be. This would just make for a safer approach than the now-mandatory free solo to reach the upper walls.

Meanwhile, mOthEr rOck plans on publishing a mini-guide to Frustration Creek some time this summer. Stay tuned for more details.

MINI-GUIDE — Bouldering at Enlightenment Ridge

Issue #11 of mOthEr rOck magazine included a special pull-out mini-guide by Reese Martin, which covers about 120 boulder problems at Enlightenment Ridge out at Pine Mountain. All of our loyal subscribers got the mini-guide free along with Issue #11, and the mini-guide is getting rave reviews. If you didn’t get it, there are three ways you can still get the guide: - subscribe to mOthEr rOck magazine for $10, and we’ll send you the mini-guide to Enlightenment Ridge as well as Issues #11-16 - order the back issue of #11 for $3.00, and which includes the mini-guide to Enlightenment Ridge - order the mini-guide to Enlightenment Ridge by itself for $2.50

MARGARITAVILLE — Public Apology

Aaron Rough writes: “I caught some flack for recently posting directions to Margaritaville in mOthEr rOck and on the Internet’s rec.climbing. Public Apology: I’M SORRY, FIVE.TEN! Now that’s done. If you do go out there, please keep it clean, and pack out what you take in. This is the reason why no information has been published about the place, fear of trashing (just look at how bad the Cemetery at High Desert got in such a short time) and fear of overbolting (umm….ok….whatever…). Blatant Butt


Kissing To Follow! Everyone knows Five.Ten shoes are the best! I wouldn’t be caught dead in anything but Five.Ten shoes. In fact, I sleep in my Velcro Anasazis!”


______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


02-June-98

In This Issue…

CENTRAL COAST – Update MT. RUBIDOUX — Trash Clean-Up

CENTRAL COAST – Update

Usually this isn’t necessary, but due to our favorite new weather phenomenon, El Nino, it has become so. Trying to climb around here this winter has been worse than trying to get up something in Patagonia. Following are climbing conditions for the Central Coast as of June 1st, 1998.

* The Santa Barbara sandstone is still wet, even at exposed areas like The Fire Crags. If it stops raining now (it rained hard last week), I would give everything two weeks, and then it may be too hot. * The Green Dome currently has great conditions. Be aware that the snakes are out, so keep an eye out and make a lot of noise on the trail. During snake season, I see snakes here about half the time. * The Red Rock bouldering area on Paradise Road is basalt, and currently has perfect climbing conditions. Unfortunately, the road is closed because the creek is so high, and you must bike five miles to get there. The rangers say it may be closed through June, which is unprecedented. * Silly Rock (Owl Tor, etc) is still pretty wet. Mr. Lee’s is probably much drier, but the road is closed at the first creek crossing. It could open anytime, but everything will also be very hot soon. * The Seven Sisters (Bishop, Cerro Remoldo, etc.) crags near San Luis Obispo are fine. The rock is basalt and dries out much faster the sandstone. These areas are also subject to coastal breezes and have good conditions most of the summer. * The Wheeler Gorge (Matilija Narrows) is climbable but still fairly wet, and the creek is very high. Because the creek is so full, this area will remain tolerable through the summer. I’ve put up routes here on 100 degree days, but you’ll have to wait for fall for perfect conditions. * Highway 33 (Pine Mountain and Sespe) is still closed, and is projected to remain so until August 15th. * Conejo Mountain (Mystery Science Theater) must now be accessed through the park on

Powerline Rd. The area is O.K., but getting hot. Keep an eye out for snakes. You will see them here about 100% of the time in the summer. * The Santa Monicas are fine but getting hot. The trail along the base of Echo Cliffs is pretty overgrown, so you may want to pack some cutting utensils. The cave at Echo is in shade for most of the day, and has been very nice lately.

All in all, it’s been a good year to be injured. Hopefully, the projected La Nina currents will dry things out as predicted. (Contributed by Steve Edwards).

MT. RUBIDOUX — Trash Clean-Up

Local climbers are planning a Mt. Rubidoux Clean-up. Participants can help with will be graffiti removal, trash pickup, chalk removal, and removal of old slings from climbs. This event is planned for June 27th and 28th, starting at 8:00 a.m. Participants should plan on bringing gloves, brushes, trash bags, and water.

If you have any questions or comments, please contact Ron Clark at [email protected].



______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________

News & information about climbing in and around Southern California

____________________ Issue #98-12 ____________________

04-June-98

In This Issue…

ABOVE THE SMOGLINE — Preview Screening Sunday, June 7th HANGAR 18 — Upland Climbing Gym Now Open SANTA MONICAS — Trail Work Planned; New Routes KELLER PEAK — Road is Open, Crag is Dry

ABOVE THE SMOGLINE — Preview Screening Sunday, June 7th

Mad Grip Productions is hosting a screening of the new climbing video “Above the Smogline: Rock Climbing In and Around LA” this Sunday, June 7th, at 8 p.m. at the West LA Rockreation. For more information, E-mail [email protected] or call 310-753-9363.

Although not available in retail stores just yet, there are currently three ways you can get your hands on this video: - Direct from Mad Grip Productions. Call them at 310-753-9363. - If you prefer to use a credit card and/or a 1-800 number, you can order it from Chessler Books at 1-800-654-8502. - You can order it on the Web from the Rock and Groove site at http://www.rockandgroove.com

HANGAR 18 — Upland Climbing Gym Now Open

Hangar 18, the long-anticipated new climbing gym in Upland, is now open! Hangar 18 features more than 10,000 square feet of textured climbing surface, 60 foot high sport climbs, and tons of bouldering.

Hangar 18 is located in downtown Upland at 256 Stowell St. #A. From the 10 Freeway, go north on Euclid and East on Stowell. Hours are 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekends. For more information, call 909-931-5991.

SANTA MONICAS — Trail Work Planned; New Routes


http://www.rockandgroove.com/

An Echo Cliffs trail work party is planned for 8:30 a.m. Saturday the 27th of June, leaving from the Mishe Mokwa trailhead. It’s jointly sponsored by the National Park Service, Santa Monica Trails Council, the Access Fund, and interested climbers. The Park Service will supply tools & a trail work supervisor. Stay tuned to mOthEr rOck Mail for more details real soon!

Speaking of Echo Cliffs, at least three new routes were bolted and climbed last weekend out there. They go at 5.10b, 5.11d, and 5.12b. All are very good additions previously overlooked.

KELLER PEAK — Road is Open, Crag is Dry

As of Wednesday, June 3rd, Keller Peak Road was open. Although there is still a lot of sand on the road in spots, the larger debris has been cleared. The Forest Service is busy replacing the railing on the bridge, but in the meantime the bridge is still passable. The Hungover Wall is in good shape–the rock is dry, and although there are still some large patches of snow nearby, there’s no snow at the base of the crag.

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #98-13, 29-Aug-98 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________


____________________ Issue #98-13 ____________________

29-Aug-98

In This Issue…

INTRODUCTION — Welcome to mOthEr rOck Mail #98-13! SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — Fill out the on-line entry form NOW! SNOW VALLEY — Area Accommodations JOSHUA TREE — Second Annual ClimbSmart Event

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the latest issue of mOthEr rOck Mail, an E-mail based newsletter chock full of useful info about the climbing scene in Southern California. mOthEr rOck Mail is distributed by E-mail free of charge to anyone who wants it, at irregular intervals. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read by more than 1,000 climbers in Southern California, and that number is growing every day. Tell all of your friends about mOthEr rOck Mail!

Questions? Comments? Have some news or information you’d like to share with the So Cal climbing community? Would you like to be removed from this list? Just want to tell us about your last climb, and how much you liked it? If so, please send E-mail to: [email protected]

1998 SNOW VALLEY BOULDERFEST — FILL OUT THE ENTRY FORM!

The 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest is coming up fast–it will take place on October 3rd, 1998. The climbing contest and trash clean-up will take place from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with free dinner for all participants at 6:00 p.m.

You can pick an entry form up at local climbing shops, or fill out the handy on-line entry form that follows. If you’d like more information and an entry form to be mailed to you, please E-mail [email protected], and include your current mailing address.

1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest and Trash Clean-Up

E N T R Y F O R M



Must be completely filled in and accompanied by payment to ensure entry.

Name:____________________________ Address:__________________________ City:_____________________________ State:________ ZIP Code:____________ Home Phone #(____) ____-________ Daytime Phone #(____) ____-________ Date of Birth _____/_____/19____ E-mail Address: _______________ Gender (circle one): Male Female Shirt Size (circle one): S M L XL

Mail Completed Form with $40 Payment Before Sept. 25th, 1998 to ROWCC

SNOW VALLEY — Area Accommodations

If you’re thinking about staying over for the Snow Valley Boulderfest and camping isn’t your bag, here’s some information about area accommodations:

Giant Oaks Phone: 909-867-2231 Rates: start at $65.00/night Features: Newly remodeled, with small indoor pool and hot tub

Sherwood Arms Motel 909-867-2491 Rates: start at $59.00/night Features: Kitchenettes and fireplaces

Deep Creek Motel Phone: 909-867-2312 Rates: starts at $53.00/night

JOSHUA TREE — Second Annual ClimbSmart Event

The second annual ClimbSmart event, conceived and organized by Adventure 16, in conjunction with Black Diamond in support of the Access Fund, is coming up next month.

WHEN: Sat.-Sun., Sept. 19th-20th, 1998 (campsites are available for the evening of Friday, Sept. 18th, but no instruction is taking place that night)

WHERE: Joshua Tree National Park, Sheeps Pass group campground (all sites are reserved by Adventure 16 for this event; you must be a registered participant to camp there, and space is limited to first 100 people to register with a payment of $45).

WHAT: A two-day extravaganza of educational clinics/demos, entertainment, gear prizes, and food–all with the goal of having fun, gaining skills/knowledge to climb smarter/safer, and benefiting the Access Fund.

The entire $45 registration fee is donated to the Access Fund. For it, participants get: *1-yr. membership in the Access Fund *Free reserved camping at Joshua Tree–on a weekend yet! Unheard of! *Access to several free clinics/demos (last year’s included rescue skills, wilderness first aid, big-wall techniques, and an anchor-building demo–topics will be similar this year but are TBD) *One free raffle ticket (more available for $1 each, payable upon registration) toward the big giveaway of Black Diamond hardware & other stuff! *slide show under the stars on Saturday night *Free catered dinner by Edchada’s on Saturday night *Top guides teach the clinics. Jeff Cooper is AMGA-class (his rock climbing program for Adventure 16 is accredited); Linh Nguyen is a longtime guide and Black Diamond representative; Scott Cosgrove is an experienced guide and accomplished climber; there will be others. (Note: If participants are already Access Fund members, the fee is the same, it just becomes a donation to the cause.)

To get more information, *Visit Adventure 16 stores to pick up a copy of its publication, Footprints. Posters will be up in stores. *Posters will be in Solid Rock and Rockreation gyms. *Call Adventure16’s Outreach Coordinator at 619/283-2362, ext. 153.

THIS EVENT was really successful and fun last year. Fifty people came out for a beautiful, not-too-hot September weekend, learned a ton, told us they would come again, and we ranked in the year’s top 10 membership drives/fundraisers for the Access Fund.

mOthEr rOck MAIL, #98-14, 30-Aug-98 from the mOthEr rOck archives…

______________ m O t h E r r O c k M A I L ______________

News & information about climbing in and around

Southern California

____________________ Issue #98-14 ____________________

30-Aug-98

In This Issue…

MOTHER ROCK — An Announcement About the Future of mOthEr rOck

This is it.

After nearly three years, more than a dozen issues of the paper magazine, numerous E-mail newletters, and about ten guidebooks, mOthEr rOck is calling it quits.

Why?

It’s a lot of work, and I’m tired of pulling all nighters trying to get the next issue together. Plus, it interferes with precious climbing time.

mOthEr rOck no longer wants to be tied to the “six issues a year” schedule–or any other schedule for that matter–so we’ll no longer be accepting subscriptions. Existing subscribers will get the correct number of issues they paid for. Non-subscribers will be able to purchase single copies of new issues (and any accompanying mini-guides) individually. Issue #14 will come out shortly, and we’re committed to publishing issues #15 and #16. Beyond that, we’re not committing to anything–we’re going climbing.

Despite the well-meaning comments from many readers, we never had any intention to accept advertising, go full color, etc. mOthEr rOck was always meant to be a little underground rag, and we hope it always stays that way. What So Cal climbers don’t need is another climbing “fashion mag.” Over the three-year evolution of the mag, we’ve tried to take it in new directions and upgrade the quality, while still staying true to our roots.

It’s been a wild ride. Lots of hard work, and lots of fun. The best part was all the people we’ve met along the way. Reese Martin, James March, Max Armept, Wills Young, Aaron Rough, Louie Anderson, Chris Miller, and so many others that we better stop now before filling the whole page with one long list of names. While mOthEr rOck has only been on

the scene for a little while, it’s been the catalyst for a number of friendships that I have a feeling will last a lifetime.

If you have any questions about your subscription, please E-mail me at [email protected]. All comments are welcome….as long as you don’t try to talk me out of this!

Matt Artz editor, mOthEr rOck magazine 30 August, 1998


Documents

mOthEr rOck Mail Archive, September 1997 - August 1998