My Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser (Thumper)

8/7/2019 My Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser (Thumper)

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If you made it to this web page, you most likely have already beenresearching the Bob Beck Protocol. If you have no knowledge ofelectronics and are wanting to build your own pulser, I recommendthoroughly going over Chris Gupta's Pulser page first and thencoming back here to fill in the blanks. Here I offer photographs andadditional information that may be of assistance to anyone wanting tobuild their own Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser.

Bob Beck Protocol Information: If you would like to learn more aboutRobert Beck and the Beck Protocol, you can view several GoogleVideos by clicking on the following Link - Beck Video . You can alsowatch the full Video below (1 hour 57 min). Beyond these videos,there is a wealth of information on the internet about the Bob BeckProtocol. In a nutshell however it implies a four process system

involving blood electrification, electromagnetic pulse, colloidal silverand ozonated water. If you are experiencing cancer, hiv, lupus,candida or one or more of a host of other ailments, it would be worthyour time to research this health process. Also, you can download theentire Bob Beck Lecture, "Take Back Your Power" (1MB PDF). I havesearched hi and low for this and finally found the complete document.Suppressed Medical Discovery:Dr. Robert C. Beck ( Cancer,AIDS, anything viral) - 1:56:59 - Aug 13,2006

Commercially Manufactured Bob Beck Devices: If you are looking fora quality blood electrifier at a fantastic price of only $70, click on thefollowing link (http://photoman.bizland.com/godzilla/details.htm). Ituses four 9V batteries. Other commercial models may use only asingle 9V battery but can cost up to $200. If you don't want to, or can'tbuild your own blood electrifier, this device should suffice nicely. I willsoon have a web page outlining instructions with photos, to assistthose who want to make their own blood electrifier. In the meantime,you can access the following web site for a schematic and parts list of

Bob Beck's original, improved Blood Electrifier and Colloidal SilverMaker

Sota Instruments manufactures and sells more advanced devicesranging from EM Pulsers to Ozonating devices and more.Also see Tools For Healing.


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My EM Pulser is based on Chris Gupta's circuit design. Chris Gupta'sPulser web site can be accessed by clicking on this link.

The information I provide on this web page is an account of what Ihave learned in the process of studying Beck devices and building myown units for my own experimentation purposes. I assume noresponsibility for anything one might do with the information providedon this web page. Please view any explanations as hypothetical andnot as instructions to be followed.

Electric Shock Hazard!This device uses 110V AC current and a bank of capacitors thatstores a significant charge. If this device is not built in a safe manor,there can be a risk of lethal electric shock. It would advisable for

individuals that are unfamiliar with electronics, to have someone likea TV repairman build this device for them. PLEASE PLEASEPLEASE be absolutely present, mindful and cautious when workingaround exposed capacitors and 110VAC current. As you will readbelow, even a shock by a single capacitor from a disposable camera,can be extremely unpleasant. A professor at Penn Engineeringjokingly recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In otherwords, keeping one hand in my pocket would prevent an electricshock from going across my heart!

Looking on the bright side however, Chris Gupta told me that manypeople have successfully built and are using this device based on hisschematic. I'm just asking those that are intending to build thismachine, to use safe practices when working around exposedcapacitors and hot electrical wires.

Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on ChrisGupta's Pulser web page.

Please take a close look at the photos below before reading on. As Idon't provide a lead-in, reviewing the images will help you tounderstand what I'm talking about.

All measurements are in Inches.

Plastic Box Outside Dimensions: approximately 2-3/8 X 4-1/4 X 7-3/8


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Using 1/2 inch #4 beveled machine screws I fastened a 1/8 inchplexiglas sub-floor to the bottom of the box in order to allow for theattachment of the Terminal Contact Bars and the home-made bracketfor the SCR. The sub-floor also provides an insulated suface for thecircuit components to be mounted to. Screws were counter sunk intothe outside-bottom of the plastic box and fastened on the inside witha lock washers and nuts. After all components were soldered andattached to the sub-floor, the sub-floor was then fastened to the endsof the four screws coming up from the bottom of the box and againfastened with nuts and lock washers.

Looking at Chris Gupta's EM Pulser circuit, keep in mind that theOn/Off switch is on the positive side of the circuit. The negative side

goes to the bulbs, 150V / 130uF capacitor and ultimately to theAnode of the SCR. In electrical circuits, generally it is always the hotlead (+) that is switched. I'm not really sure if input polarity makes adifference in this circuit, but that is how I did it.

Note: I have since modified my pulser by adding three contact bars tostrengthen, simplify and clean-up the solder points for the 150V /130uF capacitor, two diodes and the resistor. I also added two morephoto-flash capacitors to the five shown in the diagram. According to

Chris Gupta's calculations the array of 7 capacitors now store about41 joules (Watt/Seconds) of energy and will produce a magneticpulse of around ~6,000 gauss from the surface of the coil.

I used 14 gage solid copper wire to and from the photo flashcapacitor buss to add strength and stability to the circuit components.

Implementing a Strain Relief : Strain reliefs are essential for electricalsafety. They prevent cables from being ripped out of a circuit in theevent an electrical device gets dropped or e.g., should someone trip

over an electrical chord. I did not have a strain relief when Iassembled my pulser. I plan on adding two strain reliefs, one for eachchord coming out of my device.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI): A GFCI is designed toinstantly interrupt the flow of electricity in the event of a short circuit,before it can become a danger. A short circuit is basically when


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electricity finds an alternate path to ground, instead of going throughthe intended circuit. A short circuit can happen within an electricaldevice, or it can happen through a person who has unknowinglyprovided a shorter electrical path to ground. I recommend using aGFCI in conjunction with this device. Probably the easiest way to dothis is to purchase an extension chord or a power strip that has aGFCI as part of the unit. Modern building codes in the United Statesrequire all kitchens, bathrooms and out-door circuits to have GFCIcircuit breakers or receptacles.

SCR: The SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) and has three contacts.In my device the SCR is mounted onto a home-made bracket toagain add more stability to the circuit components. The bracket forthe SCR and all other components of this device are mounted to an

insulative plexiglas sub-floor using 1/2 inch #4 standard machinescrews .

scr contacts

1.) Anode: The entire casing of the SCR, including the treadedportion and the threaded nut (when attached), is the Anode and isHOT when the unit is fired up. The SCR I used had an insulator toinsulate the Anode from a mounting bracket. Included with the

threaded nut and insulator, was also a metal ring which serves as theAnode solder point. See diagram and photo below.

2.) Gate: In Chris Gupta's circuit, the Gate of the SCR connects toone side of the Push-To-Make switch. On the SCR that I used, theGate was the shorter of the two solder points coming up from the topof the unit.

3.) Cathode: Again, on the SCR that I used, the Cathode was thelonger and thicker of the two solder points coming up from the top of

the unit. It connects to one lead of the coil.

Note: The other lead from the coil is soldered to the negative buss ofthe photo flash capacitor array. See schematic and Photos.

I used a 3/4 inch EMT (electrical conduit) mounting bracket tofabricate a U shaped bracket to mount the SCR to. First I pounded


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the bracket flat, and then bent and cut it to the desired shape. Thebracket was mounted to the sub-floor using one 3/8 inch #4 phillipsmachine screw, lock washer and nut. I had to shorten the length ofthe machine screw in order maximize the distance between the endof the screw and the bottom of the SCR. The bracket had to be shortenough to provide enough clearance for the box cover, but longenough to provide sufficient clear space for the bottom end of theSCR. See photo below. The SCR attaches to the bracket betweenthe two insulators. When the assembly is tightened, the insulatorprovides effective insulation for a metal bracket. I should perhapsmention that I drilled a hole into the top surface of the bracket thatwas large enough for the protrusion of the upper insulator to fitthrough. The lower insulating ring comes up underneath the bracketand is held in place by the Anode solder point ring and finally the nut.

See SCR diagram above.

I wired the ground wire to the housing of the Push-to Make switch asthis is the only metal component I touch during the operation of thePulser. I decided to use a plastic box over a metal one, becausethere is so much current flying around and I wanted reduce thechance of any short circuits. I also made sure that all of thecomponents were all sufficiently spaced apart from each other. Sincethere is a fair amount of current flying around this machine, Chris

Gupta recommended not to use a printed circuit board to build thisdevice. That is also why I opted to implement the use of an insulatedplexiglas sub-floor to mount all of the components to.

Bulbs and Lamp Holders : I used candelabra lamp holders as theytake up less space and are less bulky. Holes of the appropriate sizewere drilled into the top of the box about 1 inch in from the edges.The main thing here, is to make sure that the bulbs are not touchingwhen screwed into the sockets. My pulser makes use of two sphericalshaped 60W bulbs. The spherical bulbs were more aesthetically

pleasing to me than traditional candelabra bulbs. Should a bulb burnout, replace it before continued use. In Chris Gupta's design thebulbs act as current limiters and protect the SCR from short-circuiting.

Note: Keep in mind that the bulbs do get hot if you are using thepulser for several minutes at a time.


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Inductor Coil: If you want to go the easy way like me, and don't wantto go through the hassle of building your own coil, one can purchasedfrom Madisound Speaker Components, Inc. This link will take you tothe correct page on their web site. You are wanting the Sidewinder2.5 mH 16AWG Air Core Inductor Coil. It costs only $14.30.

Note: The AMS coil that is listed in numerous Beck texts as analternative to building your own, is no longer manufactured.

Photo Flash Capacitors: The ability of a capacitor to store a charge ismeasured in 'Farads'. Most capacitors are labeled in Micro Farads(uF). The photo-flash capacitors you see in the tray below, all camefrom one run to a local drug store that does photo processing. Theyare all from an assortment of disposable flash cameras and range

from 80uF - 160uF. On this occasion I hit the jackpot as the camerarecycle bin was full. I could have selected twice as many. Differentcamera manufactures and even cameras from the same company willoften have caps of different ratings, ranging anywhere from 330V80uF - 330V 160uF, and on occasion even higher. Larger capacitorswith higher voltage and uF ratings can store more energy. Whenhooked up in parallel the uF ratings are cumulative. Two capacitorsrated at 330V 80uF hooked up in parallel, will have a combined ratingof 330V 160uF. When hooked up in series, it is the voltage rating that

increases. The same two capacitors hooked up in series would havea combined rating of 660V 80uF. Note how the capacitance is NOTadditive when hooking capacitors up in series. For more informationon hooking capacitors up in series click on this link.

Chris Gupta offers the following general rule of thumb aboutcapacitors hooked together in a parallel configuration: The voltageflowing through a set of capacitors in parallel, should not exceed thevoltage of the lowest rated capacitor. For example if you connect a330V 80uF capacitor and a 150V 80uF capacitor together in parallel,

the combined voltage rating of the two will be 150V.

Capacitor Ratings From Various Cameras I Have OpenedAll 330VKodak Power Flash: 120uF & 160uF (two slightly different models)Kodak Zoom: 100uF & 120uFKodak FunSaver: 120uF


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Polaroid Fun Shooter: 80uFFuji QuickSnap Flash: Unknown, but guess 100uFFuji QuickSnap Flash 1000: Unknown, but guess 160uFStudio 35: 80uF Observing Chris Gupta's circuit design, you see thathis schematic calls for one 150V 130uF capacitor just past the twobulbs. All of the caps I have removed from disposable cameras are allrated at 330V. According to Chris Gupta, it is OK to use a 330Vcapacitor in this location. Hypothetically, if one were using 330V 80uFcaps to build a pulser, one might consider using two 80uF capshooked together in parallel to bring the combined uF rating up to160uF. Likewise for the capacitor array; if all one had was 80uF capsto build a pulser with, one might want to add capacitors to the array inorder to reach the 650 combined uF (micro farads) called for in ChrisGupta's design. In this case one might consider using 8 - 9, 80uF

capacitors in the pulser construction, providing a combined rating of640uF and 720uF respectively.

To be consistent in my pulser design, I used all identical caps fromFuji cameras for the 5 (and now 7) capacitors in my array (seeimages below). There are two basic designs in Fuji disposablecameras. One uses a larger cap than the other. Because the caps inFuji cameras are not labeled, I had no way to tell for sure, what thecombined uF rating is for the capacitor array in my pulser. I came

across a source on the internet, that gave me a clue that thecapacitors in my pulser may have a rating of 160uF, as the capacitorsFuji uses, seem to be either 100uF or 160uF. Since I used the largerof the two capacitors in my design, I can assume that the caps in mypulser are 330V 160uF. If this is the case then the capacitor array inmy pulser has a combined rating of 330V 1120uF (160uF X 7 =1120uF).

The negative terminal of electrolytic capacitors is marked by a striperunning down the side. Two 5-contact, Terminal Contact Bars were

used to solder the photo flash capacitors to. As the capacitors needto be connected in parallel, each Terminal Contact Bar has a piece of14 gage copper wire soldered at each contact across the span of thebar to unify all contacts. The Negative pole of each capacitor issoldered to one contact of the terminal contact bar and the same forthe positive side of the capacitors. Be sure the screw mounts arefacing toward the outside. Once the capacitors were soldered in


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place, I marked the hole locations on the plexiglas sub-floor anddrilled the holes. The assembly was then fastened to the sub floorwith 1/2 inch #4 phillips machine screws, lock washers and nuts. Seeimages below.

Most often capacitors in spent disposable cameras will still have acharge and can shock you if touched. If you attempt to build your ownpulser, please be sure to always discharge capacitors beforeremoving them from a camera.

SHOCK HAZARD: If you disassemble a camera, be extremely carefulwhen removing the cover and handling components. Avoid touchingany of the circuitry until the capacitor has been discharged. I recentlygot shocked from a camera that had a 330V 80uF capacitor inside,

and it really hurt! The jolt went up my whole right arm and it tookabout a half an hour for my hand and arm to feel normal again.Capacitors are not to be taken lightly and should be considereddangerous and potentially life-threatening! Making a CapacitorDischarge Tool: One can make a capacitor discharge tool with twoinsulated alligator clips, about 16 inches of 14 gage stranded wireand a 10,000 ohm, wire-wound, 10 Watt resistor. Solder an insulatedalligator clip to either end of the insulated wire. Then cut the wireabout 7 inches from one end, and solder the resistor in place. Now

wrap the resistor and solder points with at least three layers ofELECTRICAL TAPE.

Discharging Capacitors: Carefully connect the alligator clips to thecapacitor terminals (one clip to each exposed terminal). The resistorwill drop the voltage down in a minute or so.


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Aboutthe Single Capacitor Just Past the Bulbs: Chris Gupta told me thatone can use the same Photo Flash Capacitor in this location, that iscalled for in the five capacitor array. As mentioned above, if one onlyhad 330V 80uF caps to work with, one might consider using two 80uF

caps hooked together in parallel to bring the combined uF rating up to160uF.

Diodes: Diodes are also directional and must be installed properly.Their primary function is to insure the flow of current is only in onedirection. This symbol diode diagram small is used to indicate a diodein a circuit diagram. Current flows from the cathode side to the anode


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side. If they are installed with the polarity reversed, your pulser willnot work. The stripe on any diode indicates the cathode side and thenegative pole.

Aboutflying fender washers: My washers don't fly up from the center of thecoil as with some other designs. Washers on my unit fly in line withthe sides of the coil. When experimenting with this, one needs to play

around with the magnetic field until one finds the right spot. Once Ifigured out the correct positioning for the washer, I was able to get a1-1/2 inch fender washer to soar about 40 inches into the air. Pretty

amazing!


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Starting my Pulser for the First

Time: I didn't know what to expect when I plugged the chord into theoutlet and pressed the on switch for the first time. The lights came onmomentarily and then went out. Chris Gupta told me this was normal.

Should you build your own machine based on this design, and afterturning the unit on, the lights come on and stay on, immediately turnthe machine off and troubleshoot your assembly! Also if the lightsdon't come on at all, then something is amiss as well. I had rubbergloves on when I pressed the push-to-make switch for the first time.

When pressing the push-to-make switch the lights shown brightly andI could hear a slight momentary sound from the wires in the coil.Again, Chris said this was normal. All was well and I had successfullybuilt my pulser. After repeated pulses, the coil will begin to get warm.This too is normal.

Note: Always press and instantly release the push-to-make switch.The circuit is designed for repeated but momentary bursts ofelectromagnetic pulses. Keeping the push-to-make switch depressedwill damage your pulser.

First time around, it took me about six hours to build this pulser. I'mguessing I will be able to make it three to four hours the next time.

Chris Gupta's EM Pulser Circuit


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Images of my Pulser Below

pulser image 2a


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Image below is of my modified pulser with 7 Photo-Flash Capacitors

Notice the additional 2 capacitors and the additional solder point bars.

When I discharged the capacitor array, it sounded like a firecrackergoing off in my ear and the tips of the 14 gage wire were slightlymelted. There was a noticeable difference in the discharge strengthof seven capacitors as compared to five. One does not want to getshocked by that! A jolt like that going across one's heart could belethal! - Please be careful and always discharge capacitors, even ifyou think they are not charged. Instructions to build a capacitor

discharge tool that will safely discharge a bank of capacitors isoutlined above. Image below is of my modified pulser with 7 Photo-Flash CapacitorsNotice the additional 2 capacitors and the additional solder point bars.


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Documents

My Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser (Thumper)