My Sudan Year

7/27/2019 My Sudan Year

1/406Publ

icDomain,Google-digitized

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athitrust.org/access_

use#pd-google

My Sudan year, by E. S. Stevens ...

Drower, E. S. Lady, (Ethel Stefana), 1879-

New York, G. H. Doran co. [1913]

http://hdl.handle.net/2027/mdp.39015058540223

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T H E MO U NT A N O F G O D . T H E EA RT H EN

. A ND T H E L O N G E N GA G EM E NT

L L U T RA T O N

O M PA N

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14/406

b oo i s a v er y s im p le o n e.

startlingfac tsor

an itmaypossiblycontain

udgments. tisbutan

ouristor firesidetraveller

andc harmofthe udan

tatisticsandBlue

ostpeople butanacc ount

fles,andcharacteristics

tentionofanidle

mapicture ofthecountry

actswouldmerelyblur.

stersof Englishmen

the udanmayf indin

heirthoughts,acoloured

giningsofthe livesand

ey areinterested,


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15/406

N

witha viewtothe

istobelongthanw ith

havenotspentasummer

omeneverdo. Thee pression

en, therefore, f iguratively .

ethisopportunityof than ing

epedmeinc ollec tingin-

sBewley,Mr.T.W.

y m es , D . . O . , M r. t a nl e y

t r uv e .


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o c ia l h a rt o um . 2 4

49

of al lC o lo ur s . . 4

9

a n 92

n gs a n d i n ge r s . . 99

ac . . . 1 15

d B ac ( c on t in u ed ) . 1 32

a nd B ac . 14

u dd a nd B ac . 15 7

a nd B ac . 1 71

d B ac , , . 1 8


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d an d Ba c ( c on t in u ed ) . 1 98



aboutthePeoplewho

.2 3

bas. . . 259

d t he m i le u p er i or 2 8 1

o o 2 90


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T RAT O N

r. . .. rontispiece

lothesatO mdurman. . 1

sintheEarlyMorning, O mdurman35

hazal)50

ntheirTribute. . . 58

man70

veinO mdurman. .. . 92

mdurman. . . . 95

llV illagenearMvolo. . 110

uldingHuts. . . . 124

ding tation. . . . 138

osti143

ters, Hillet-A bbas. . . 144

sh od a) 1 0

1 2

singtheNa amRiver. . 1 4

ohTrees,Bahr-el-Zeraf .181


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LU TR AT O N

3

d C ut betweentheBahr-

Gebel...188

190

dile192

dfor uddite. . . . 195

hief... .198

eridi200

ingWaterf romtheUpperCourse

8

al213

ureoftheNuerW arrior..21

dbythetwoNuggers. . 232

ti o n of t h e u d an . . . 2 34

Din asatMelut.. ..240

hiteNile, nearMelut. . 250

e 25 4

lls2 2

ingB read280

Nile290


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of1910, af termyreturn

stcameintoindirec t

. nL ondon c hanc edto

Anglo-Egyptian udan,

bac inEnglandaf ter

of themshowedmea

e c ellentphotographsof

urningtheseover, formed

elandwhic hc oulde -

nthesemenevenwhile

eaveit.Unmeasured

savageswho,li eMr.

Britons,consideredrespecta-

edbyacoatingofclay

graphsandtalesof

onandbroughta


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egreynessof awet

shmenabusedthe

mettheEnglishmanwho

wereli eboysata

oliday readyto

erablehole butad-

ttherewasnothingli e

er settledowninEng-

y,untiltheyears should

wroteinhissorrow,that

hem.

rmed,was,afterthe

suddenlyfulfilled.Early

too passageonthe

er-LloydsteamerPrinz

airo, where arranged

ssrs. Coo ' sriver-c raf t

chplybetweenthe

an,andthenceonto

one, ifheisnottiedfor

in Egyptmorethan

heoldhigh-roadof

yonwhichmengo

asanddahabiyahsafter

hitesails areeverspread


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verc argoes ourney ingup

t er syouli ea

ecenturyintoanother,

sha esyou, itma es

minablyhotitpre-

ropicswhileyouare

L ondonfog. TheNile

ougentlyonitsbroad

re.Thehistoryof ten

elfbeforeyouas youpass

tercity,templeafter

nthaste.Thevery

hastimetomirrorthe

brownhouses,thedomes

comelinessofPhilae,

u imbel,thelimpid

set. tisaspec tac leof

atyouareneversated.

aduallyacclimatisedasyou

ecoolnessofCairoforthe

etropicalheatof Assuan,

ntothegoldendeserts

ofC ancer,wherethe

rsinthes yofnights, and


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tandpurefromits

ba edwastes.

thmorepersonality

d. tsverynamec alls

ndor, theghostsofmighty

edc enturies. tevo es

ceofthePharaohsand

he shadowyhistories

ueens thelovesof

ndthehappierpassion

enderNefert-tari,the

ns thewomanwhoheldhis

her littlehandtillher

edrestinthebarrenmoun-

rfumeand humanity

ydidthousandsofyears

oriestoo,forthe

efto hartoumpassed

ourneysouthwardsto

alfaonthesamewater-

ance,when itchener

ma ersintothe udan,

tlelineforward.These

hought

tilysincethedaysof


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eevenswroteinhiswonder-

ch e ne r t o h a rt o um . E v er y -

danreadsthatboo , forit

he annihilationofthe

visionasno other

veryclangof the

tleof thesteamengines

dhisdescriptionof the

aysrunalongeverydusty

sc lan upanddown

heworldli eC hic agoina

ngloosein thestreets

sontheirwayto the

poundofthe town

estal ofthosetimes.

risoners, menwholed

meoftheMahdi,and

mir O smanDigna,a

tly-spo enoldgentleman,

essinhis mien.

apeac efulplac eenough,

ean-builthousesalong

ueandhospital,anda

rlesssmellyanddirty


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R

town. ouwander

dbuy udanesebeadsand

chantwhodozesata

at,somehow,thereis

outthisplace.The

morepaternal,the

tisa subtlesomething

e atlast inthe

faismerelythememory

sidethatstationwomen

openbas ets,inwhich

hcommoditiesasnative

at,biscuit-li eringsof

ame,fatgreenmelons,

ammams.Thefourth-class

urse buyfromthese

wenty-fourhours our-

waiting,thewhitedesert

eepouttheblistering

st half-hourhas

colourandlife.Thereis

thehouseholdofan

southhehimselfas

nscanma ehim,the


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iththePyramidsintheir

teface-veils.Theyare

n.Theresits an

ance,surroundedbyall

himagood-temperedsi -

c fac eonegrin, his

rizontalgashestoshowhis

fendis Egyptian

officialsinirreproachable

ats. ondergoesa c ottish

a iinc losec onferenc ew ith

ondisa clusterthatmight

ngham,ladiesontheir

derdaintyparasolswith

nglishofficialsandasub-

mleave.

ilwaystationofc harac ter,

tourists, ma ethattwenty-

iththeideaof spendingonly

d.Mostofthepassengers

ofwor orsport, in

romthosetheyleft

ymight bepreparingto

otheMiddleAges.The

toprovidethetransport.


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ngto ourneyyeta

atswampyGardenof

hereclothesaredispensed

yare notgoingfor

sitcomesaboutthat

asanatmosphereof its

i eatintrumpet

of f, fallbac those

de,andthe trainmoves

cfan,aberth,awashing

din eachcompartment

ethe violet-tintedpane

past. tisonevast

own,variedhereandthere

andtherebyafewpalm

elegraphwires butit

barrennessspreadout

calsun toscorchfrom

rises onthehorizontill

,castinglongshadows

andboulder,andplaying

azzledvision.There

ofeveorcoverof chasing


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mperorandtyrant,set

nttobeblue. outire

yhasnothingto offer

atyourealisehow

e.Atsundownit

nopal, butitdidnottouc h

nstopsto waterat

epoutintothec oolnessof

offaery.Themoonsails

hes y , andthesandis

wandsilver.Acacias,

stavaultin whichthe

egreaterlight,brush

nthewaste,andthe

mysterywal sonthe

yis tellingsome

mountedthat,inthedays

nMilitaryRailwayinstead

entRailway,itwashere

aterandtothesurprise

convincedthenative

swithhim.H issecond

otso successful,butthe


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ealisedand thebrave

way.

eshedtoo thehornsounds,

bed.Theold traveller

hingyoupossess,and

atheisright, forin

nd violetpane,every-

edw ithsand. ourmouth

ou,your veryclothes

ac shoeshavebecome

ths. A tbara tationis

of theB attleof the

tthathistoricalplace,

outhin onlyofbaths.

orthyofthe name,

abathindeed.That

f theday. orthe

h thethermometer101

eepupaninterestinlife

sionale citement,such

pyramidsofMeroeagainst

arstang se c avating

eofwhitetents. ou

i uid. tisnotatempera-


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adfollowstheNile

ageafterbrownvillage

ousin intoatorpor.

on,youcrossthe

ewbridge,eighteen

eavisionofwhitehouses

of abigrailwaystation

gnalsandrowsofbrown

edat hartoumc apital


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theshapeof the udan,

on themap

faatthenorthandits

thesoutha district

nds uaremileswhich

provinceofMongalla

ouththeNileformsan

BlueNilewanderingup

um,andthemainstream,

ssourceinV ic toria

hee tremetipofour

of theWhiteNileliesthe

n,coveringanarealarger

weststillDarfur,whose

Dinar, loo sw ithmis-

tlyopenedbetweenEl

ordofan, andCostionthe

sibleto performintwenty-


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f rom hartoum, whic h,

formerlytwelvedays.

asy.This meansaD

owndomaina

d.

hingtheboundaries

gulardistrictofthe

nofswampandmalaria.

erofourf ishlieHalfa

inProv inc ereac hingthe

rnboundarybends

oses enaarProvince

allaProvince,which,

sestheL adoatthetail.

ption,buti tmayserve

yofthecountryfor

pt toconveyindiges-

of thewhole udan,

v inpointsout, iswellover

rabouttwo-thirdsof

pieceshorizontally,

hebottomof thefirst

ointwhereB lueNileand

yspea ing, itlieson


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nisontheopposite

of thestreams.

way,thattheNileflows

-stream meanssouth-

of theNileisthatit

sbroaderinsteadof

tssource,and,proud

arriesits largesseto

tthe helpoftribu-

ertprosperityof acity

dofLord itchener

alplan.H ousesseem

lionsformedintoneat

wordofc ommandtomarch

rthe desert.The

hereisanindescribable

amp,thatitslife isas

yoftents.Andthat

ytheperpetualbuglecalls

ic.

oemeas write. t

edintos uaresand

oras anumberofUnion

dalinform thebase, two


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ongtheB lueNile. O n

unitedbythenew

oumNorth,wherethe

ndstores,alsoasuburb

ted.

in hartoumisalong

nt treetisitsridic ulous

l sof lebba hsand

privatehousesandcare-

nesideandthe river

orth-westontheother.

aidsbringtheirchargesin

alongittouristsmounted

nthesuddenshadeandrespite

andbelowtheban lie,

whiteGovernment

rthon their ourney

abovethemthesa ya

g. A sa ya, forthose

ntrivancefordrawing

ating purposesby

byo en. Thesmallboy

ordozing. nthelatter

hisreminders,gradually

nddrowsetooin the


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AR

ofthesa yamaysoothe

onedge.Thereisa tale

ddenedbythenoise,

andbac sheeshsothathe

.Butthe ownerofthe

hanin uredc ountenanc e.

h e a s e d , f o r me t o n o w

or ingornot, nowthat

ghfareisV ictoria

trees,buttheseareas

uth. ustwhereV ic toria

hediveAvenue,stands

and dramaticmonu-

Gordon tatue. tis

. Troopspassitallday

broadentrancetothe

efoc usof thetown, this

an onacamel.The

minatesthecity,as

ofpatriotismand

utashortdistance

pearsweredippedin his

hrowaway itc henerand

atthereta ingof the


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cewasreadoverthe

boutthestatue.The

. O neoldblac woman,

Gordon shousehold,

rstogetherbecause,

edat her.O thers

move.AnEnglishman

estatue, whena udanese

medhimthatthe

tonthewhole, butthat

ht. I newhimwell,

hewasaswhiteasyou "

arose-bushisstill

d, plantedbyGordon s

pel,hisfavouritehymn,

tillsungaf terevensongon

spiritofamanwal edthe

surelythe greatand

rdonstal sabout

hartoumhappened

arden-partywasgiven

tLord itc hener. The


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fHisMa esty sGovern-

ofemployment,and

ashootingtripontheBlue

s, infac t, upinthe

ofsevenyears,forpleasure

nyearsbefore, hartoum

oundedheadfromthe

ofDervishrule,for

neinthe fiveyearsof

on,thattimewasmostly

tion. Nowthe udanhad

ofhealthygrowth,and

musthavebeen enor-

c henerthatwesawthat

urntbric -red,smiling,

olboy.His especialwish

u d u th a t wa s n o wn t o

ennaar,andsecurethe

nhourof thetimef i ed

ndleisuretoo,during

newbridgeat ostion

at alltheimprovements

engeadvicetoeveryone

iption,praisetothose


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eepthewholeplacebusy.

the presentBritish

stlydifferentnowfrom

itchenerandhis

whenthe Britishand

doncemoreonthe

d,searchingforthehelp

the odomapplesran

ns,andthePalacewas

builtedificepresents

andthere isacarpet

ghtbethelawnin front

Ranelagh. Thegardenis

oleandersinfull

,poinsianas,yellowtaco-

storrentsofbougain-

shadedbymimosa,acacias,

ngetreesanddown-

is anuarydaymade

ovidedcolour,andsodid

saycrowds,because,

ofcivilofficialsand

rmyofficerswereinter-


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eddressesandparasols,

ocalshei hsandleading

epttothemselves, and

rnf romtheO ldTestament.

oconversewiththem

ePalacestepswiththe

enrowsofcoal-blac giants

ateron,whileevery-

tothemar ueesfor

afteranotherdetachhim-

ng, neeldownata

,and repeathisevening

edMecca-wards.The

guresbroughtthe

efunctionbeforeoneas

ingtheafternoon.

es.Thosesameblac

edwithredto which

irdar sbodyguard, were

mmusthavefought

o.And,notso odd

ersthatthe udanis

ennowadays,itamused

dspipingforth c otch

s, w ithtrueCaledonian


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aptmusicians.Theregi-

dplay inharmony,and

edeverbeignorantof the

stheyare playedin

London.

ethene tmorningat

placeintheearlyhours.

cannotdo ustice.

fepouredoutintothe

mdurmansentits

oo.

e-groundwemet

menandhorsewomen,

utwithveiledfaces

rcarts,high officials

fonthesameoronfoot

na edbabies,raga-

dwhatnot.Aboveusa

nsopowerfulthatthe

thepureaircastclean-cut

sand.Andawide

edplain,bro enonly

milesaway,andastring

ngintothedistanceli e

heetofcardboard.The


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hedout inglittering

ennantsofthecavalry

nessli earowoftiny

accommodatedthe

deit stoodthemotor-

chenerpausedtospea

seconds,hishorseswitch-

y,beforehecantered

ssomeoneput ittersely,

, nosword, nogloves. But

seblin ing, twin ling

horses outonthefield

lengthofeach,one

man responsiblefor

aDesert.

trangelump of

oat. Manyandmanya

thatnotfar-distant

udanesenumberin

oinedourran saf terthe

mdurman.They

smilingfaces,brownand

nbe loyalfriends.The

ineswing,andit was

e. Menof f if ty loo ed


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scheerful.Most,how-

generation,upright

ghtbeproudto com-

f f icersthe halifa s

e.Atfirstitseemed

nof thismanaboveall

her sdestroyers,but

at itwasafine thing

vernmentdestroyedits

also.

membering.Thecavalry

eArabmountedinfantry

turbansand dar

donsmallAbyssinian

omtheMilitaryC ollege

ingandswayingforward

imsloo ingsobrightand

ssedandsaluted andthen

thunderofhoofs,a

ingofbridlechains.

ceagaintheglittering

was thesoundofshout-

o y a sh a " /

hedivialH ymnandthe

ndthepageantwasdone.


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O C I AL H A RTO U M

stof thenightsof theyearit

outofdoors. n

outon theroof,wherea

nyou,withanearthen

ch. ntheso-called

b isplacedintheveran-

ou liewatchingthe

as yofvastc learness, or

icofthetropicalmoon

oufallasleep.An

beathand, forthenight

edawn. ouc anbe

ofcauses:bythelight

glinginthe barrac s,

ngpast,or bythe

eatherthongs onawoodenframe.No

dfewEuropeans,as itisverycomfortable.


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O C I A L H A RT O UM 25

anbulbulinthetac omas

oc urtainaboutyou, for

officersofhealth has

rtoummos uito. More

erisfined50piastresif a

epremises. Themos uito

hereforeallstagnant

fin,orremoved. n

, wherepeopleusedtostand

ertoberidof thetorment

thantriumph.

or of thesanitary

oneofthe healthiest

stountiringvigilance.

esconstantpersonal

verefficientthenative

cethereisacaseof

seisdoggedlyhunted

n1909therewere

e BritishBarrac s.

thetime,andleaving

ordedintheReportfor 1910was7per

apopulationof 0, 000nativesandEuro-


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AR

arrac s. Thesepools

vaeofanophelinemos uitoes

malariawithit found

ated.Butas soonas

helarvaemadetheir

heofficerofhealth

nirrigatedfieldonthe

utthenativeinspector

ent.H owever,asanitary

mselfdevelopedmalaria.

adeathoroughsearch,

rvaeinthe channelsthat

nastheywere treated,

ofmalaria.

ternalwariswaged

s determinedas

nagainstthe halifa. This

hartoum, andine -

otsomeoftheinoculated

ighthavec osthimhis

odowntothePasteur

reatment. H appily , noev il

ome,ofthefirmof

e,hasendowedthe

esearc hLaboratories at


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ereawartothe deathis

eswhichhavemade

nthegraveofthe white

siesofthewic ed

acillusarebeingstudied

iosyncrasiesofthe

or arepublished,and

beingrenderedtothe

ne.

mwhichmos uitoes

wayswarmenoughto

maybea c oldsnap

ctuallyat 0degrees

, that, forthe udan, and

aughtyconstructionof

eawa ened, nevertheless,

forin hartoumthe

e houses,andevenbuild

rp,andfly inandout

thefurnituretoloo at

teyes,asif theyhad

.The udanesesparrow

gishsparrow , andnot

snotso dingy,how-

e bulbultowhich


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soneofthemostfamiliar

mheisalmostasbig

randblac -headed

eery,ifnotvery

ithimpunityat hartoum.

deepwellsatB urri, andis

dendayswomencarriers

aboutwithwater-s ins

eprec iousli uid, but

ytaps,water-carts,

tains,atwhichvessels

ayment.

ssibletogetmutton,

dunlimitedchic en,

Thelarderc anbevaried

orvenisononoccasions.

entiful,butmuddyandcoarse

tercanbeobtainedfrom

atc ertaintimesof the

eEnglishdairyproducts,

ensive. V egetablesarenot

salmostprecious. t

ostofthevegetables


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r otheroftheGree

oo saree c ellentatsauces

possibletorecognise

urrypowderisdearto

sheartbutitissometimes

aincivilianwasbac

gtrip,yetwasinformed

w as n o m ea t . W h a t "

waboutthatgazelle "

t h e co o , t h e ga z el l e ha s

avenocurrypowder "

onthewholecleanly,but

gis anuncleananimal,

protest.O nehouse-

antspittingdevoutly

rebringingit into

oftenBerberinesatribe

, onthewhole, e -

ldomin them,and

notalwaysfindher

hingthatgoeswrong

otheDevil.Bishop

dayhis boy c ame

Devilisinthehouse.


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op, thatisvery interesting

c oo f romthetou

ning.

ntedtheB ishop, puzzled.

thecameoutof thec oo

e do "

boardandbro eaplate

a r .

B ishop.

h e a m s u pp o se h e

h e di d "

useholderwastold

evilhadbro enhis

tlast, hec ried, Well,

mehec omestogointo

an d b re a h i s pl a te s ,

onisnotmerelyan

se thenativeservantreally

possessedac oo who

ausedhimtobubble

heotherservants


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enhewaspossessed,but

reventhiscoo ing.

c ellentdinnerofseveral

hile,butthe disheswere

edfellow-servantsthrough

uld ventureintothe

mewhatprimitive.

Bshopof hartoumshared

heB ishop, oneof

,undertoo togetthe

andlabouredhardat

ethoughthemight

herwaysas well,and

ofsuc himprov ingsub ec ts

styandstraight-dealing.

gentlyandappreciatively.

yourwordsarethewords

t r ut h .

ottoharpontheethic al

thatheintendedto

egarden.The gardener

shewouldbuildit. S un-

theBishop, andmud

ropermortar " B e-


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sive. Thegardener

ttroubleyou now

e eptatthePublic

, af terdar , youand "

uf f ragis, bytheway, was

arrier:hewasfoundwounded

dyatthebattleinwhic h

rtoum,thatistosay,

tothe endofMarch

arties,agarden-partyor

anas,picnicsandpolo.

argeascaleas thoseof

hill-stationin ndia,

gementtowriteagainst

enthetouristinvasionis

asantlac ofswagger

ts theLevantineele-

ed,womendonotover-

t possesspony-cartsor

waledsli eturbaned

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ontheunpretentiousass,


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odiscoursescheerfully

eyboyalongsidein

d c ots, tothetouristand

abledon ey istheta i

stlysaddledw ithastirrup-

withadyedsheeps in,

e,andthefareis a

theaf ternoon. ou

ddinghisnec or ic ing

thedon eyboytugs

houldgowithblood-

eyboyisa barefoot

nagedanythingfrom

geshischargealongwith

ndsli e ' llteachyou

ta cc a to A r r " i n h is t h ro a t.

allbeastscanterortrot

avytheirload.O n

onditionedlittlebeasts,

gofangels,butit isas

nandseeif therearesaddle

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shighestnoteto the

e Arabstellagood

nimalswerefirstcreated,

muchoftheirtime

ir lady-lovesthat

. nhisanger, A llah

verbeany moreshe-

hedon eyslif tedtheir

ldnotendurethe

a e , s to p , s a id h e , a n d

h a ve s a id " T h e d on e y s

uttothis daythey

esamemanner.

ss tennislawnsin

erycarefulwatering,

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oprecious),butinthe

an. The ourney ismade

sboat, the Elf in, onc e

twasdiscoveredwhen

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itssec ondinc arnationit

c anma eit, butitis

spasthistory. O n the

durman, don eysand

aiting,andeveryone

e casemaybe,andthe

hemazeofone-storied

sO mdurman,forthe

ourtothe leftwill

theMahdi stombthat

ands andthenover

hedervishesmadetheir

ologroundis visiblefrom

e, andthe udanese n-

TheGirlintheTrain

veneverasmuchasset

es,andtosit through

ausetheireyestostart

w ithastonishment. t

urlinghambutforthe

stead, thesandhasbeen

of theseason, andthe

he nfantryforthe

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AR

poniesandswinging

sdownswelteringly , the

rcoffeeorlemonadein

ileacrowdofeager

colourswatchthe

hebarrier.Theirteeth

r eyesglistenintheir

es.Therearelittlegirls,

ntoatleasttwohun-

heads,andgreasedwith

Departmentshavewon,

ubbeddownbyattentive

wonationalanthems,

pwitha horse-auction,

ngane c ellentauc tioneer.

c ountryarebro enbya

odisposedof hasfallen

lycontented,mounts

hisc onveyanc e.

thista esplaceonthe

eenyearsago,within

f thechildrenwho

war-drumsbeatthe ehad.

averageEnglishmanas


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haracteristicofhim,is

isneverdisturbedby

eeatshisfood,plays

ymnson undays, no

willprobablydothe

e uivalent, inthene t

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61/406

eanepigramaboutthe

sedneatly theimpres-

mers. Apparently,

isrunforthebenef itof the

nobility . H emight

penseof theEgyptian

hebittercontentionof

ro.Thesecondaccusa-

teron. B uttothef irst

answeredthat,though

haristocracydocome

rtainlynotfor amusement.

circumstancesallow,

unf laggingw illanden-

ourready-to-stri e

mottowouldseemtobe,

ntoyourwor .


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62/406

isapttoimagine,after

whichhehashadaremar -

lplay,becausehemeets

mentsof rela ation. f

epshiseyesandearsopen,

willbeundeceivedand

ntry isrunforanyone s

ploitedintheinterests

enthedifficulttas

drulingitwith ustice

udantheonlyholdthe

enativesis theirbelief,

,thattheEnglishmanwill

animpartialhand, anddo

ndalleviatedisaster

yforta ingpainsthat

ius. tis, infac t, asuc c &s

eralsenseof thephrase.

onstopillage,slaughter,

sease,thepaternal

ncomehometotheir

.TheEnglishmanis

his fussyideasabout

fusingbribes, butitis


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63/406

blessingsinitswa e.

e,thatbeforetherainscome

,thedownfallissupposed

elandonwhichthe

nghiscircuitof in-

setcropsaccordingly.

fA llahispleasedwiththe

to showthathisfeetare

el-Ghazalaboutan

therofstealinghis cattle.

nedtotheplaintiff,whowas

itness thenhehad

rehimandas edhim

nce.Theoldmanarose.

h e c ri e d. C o m e a wa y, m y

othsides "

mtheAnnualReports

ehumanthanmostBlue

beillustrativeof the

ytheEnglishinspector.

tenbullsf romB . , another

erhiscattle,whereupon


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64/406

ieflycomposedofA. s

ute,andA.fully ac-

uttheC ourt,while

ouldbe returnedtoB.,

nishmenttoA.,butsince

oubleandris ofstealing

derivenobenefit

eponeofthestolen bulls

ct wasthattherewas

udgesbuthad, atsome

temptedtosteala

se uentlynotonewho

herefore,itiseasily

r,whocausedrestorationof

also finedthethief,is

,andprobablyconscience-

romtheReportof theUpper

ainindividualpro-

i f h e co u ld w r it e a c ha r m

ctofma inghiswife,

dless,bearhimchildren.

rm,andin courseoftime

otherofason butwhen

husbandtofulf ilhispartof the

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65/406

nwishedtosuethehusband

ewhatdisappointed

ecouldwriteacharm

amiracle,therewasno

ursetothecourtsto

hehusband. Report

nc e.)

alfaProvincefor

heactingGovernor,tells

omanc hargedw iththe

attac ingherfrom

wingwaterfromthe

eevidence,hesaid,

uredhusbanddidnot

much.Thoughdeeply

favouritewifewhohad

otan iousforthec on-

nt beingthat,having

ventstryto eepthe

enoneremembers

videdforeverywife

r,butbytheprospective

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recattle-owners,have

pttoresentany inter-

aneyeforaneye and

inthe outhern udan

, a nd N u er s m a e a p o in t o f

pecthimofwithholding

ssionalrainma erswho

sofdrawingshowers.

illwizardsandwitches

ccusedisguilty, they

deal theyadminister

tedpersontogo into

f ire. f thesupposed

epoison,escapesthe

gbadlyburnt,heor she

Anothermethodis

Amanwillevenconsent

tivesifhebelievesthat

ft.Afterall,wewere

centuriesagoincivilised

eithis caretorespect

. ndealingw iththe

ribal codeisveryelaborate

efertotheselateron), for


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dsadefinitesystemof

his udgments.Manyof

agemightserveas

uropeaneugenistsand

fslowlyof theidea

ht.ThevenalEgyptian

sters,accustomedhimto

arningtota ehisplace

ylitigant.O ther

esometimetoroot

ey. orinstance,there

milartotheEnglishWor -

A c t. Thisisc onfounded

ticeinthenative mind,

fromin uries,thepetition

an srelativesas sfor

minformedthatitisdif f ic ult

hattheyare entitledto

ovetheirdependencyon

dthepaymentas a

oftheemployer,towipe

tedin hediveAvenue.

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oolroomsandmany

sareprovidedwith

o ,asinEngland,and a

riedintheL awCourts,

TherearetwoMohamme-

sC ourt(theC ourtof irst

ndC adi sC ourt(theC ourtof

strictC ourt,presided

tewith urisdic tionup

ilCourt, presidedoverbythe

hestcourtof the irst nstanc e.

mited urisdiction.The

sentintheC ourtof the

r, butitishopedshortly to

A ppealw iththree udges.

vernmentinspectors

gec iv ilc ases butc ivil

omtimetotimeinsome

delledmoreorless

andthemoreimportant

agistratesonthebench.

he officesoftheGovernor


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AR

ethreeciv il udgesand

icemagistrateandthree

hesmallordistrict

10is udgedbyan

uefeaturesinthelaw

omance. nthelong

ueredshade, as passed

of ews, inBiblicaldress,

gtotheir shouldersli e

m, waitingfortheirc aseto

emessengersinwhite

dsandforwardswiththat

snevere uivalentto

urfulelementinthe

usher,atall,powerful

erlytheslaveofthe

in, oncewealthymerchants,

wastoldthatthe

dssomeofhispaytohis

e wasalsoasoldier,

eginningofhisregimehe

ewitnesses

suchcasesasare

ar manyofthemagis-


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70/406

ndArabicsowellthat

hemannerofprocedure

e,sothata litigantcan

:awrittenpetition is

ytheplaintif f , andifhehas

rpaysthe fees.The

earingandtried.

nisatpresentaveryun-

ecommercialconditions

nownitwillbeuseless

endoneinEgypt. rom

edraftedto meetthe

ustice, andnodoubtthese

efuturedate.But

eptpacew iththec om-

rdinanceshavenot

ershavebeendrafted

nanceshavetobe

hartoum, andthewasteof

asridiculous,sometimes

edin andbadtemper. t

matterwillbeta enin

meeffortwill bemade

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71/406

he udanissimplythe

daptedtothec ountry. rom

mberofcivilcasesforthe

thetotalconvictionsin

triedbyNon- ummary

eathsentenc ewasc arriedout

olicein hartoum,all

telligence,and uarters

yearsagoby prison

dfor strangepurposes:

stingtoarrangesceneryfor

,thatafewcriminals

hemorestrenuouspieces

stpoliteandin-

hatitisfoundof inf inite

rshumanlyas wellas

ointerestli echildren,

ntoreason.Thereis

he udanaswellasin

mall percentageof

inalchargesarecriminals


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G

sefultothec ommunity ,

ationoflifeto

tocallhim. tshould

c arryoutthewor in

ispositionandheredity

and,it shouldnotdeprive

ercapabilities,ofthe

mforthe goodofall.

thelandofherheritage

,orrathersemi-

antmatter. H ereisa

eatBritain,Germany,

y , painandPortugalput

gofwhichEnglandhas

twill,supposingthat

tinfutureyearsa large

slies theresponsibility


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73/406

e.H owareweaccept-

senttheso-calledArab

criptsoftheNorthern

sof the outh, the hillu s,

yam-Nyamsandothers.

revariedthanthenationali-

ongue,customandre-

sonsof thosewhofell

mdurman,andthoseblac

esprovidedtheslave-

tc omprisestheslee and

dthehaughtyBaggara

calecouldnot be

euniform, butitmustbe

tothevariousidiosyn-

lac e. tmustbe

calidealapplicableto

arianorbigoted.

udanmay, thin ,

mainw iththesere uire-

eheretosurvey itas

nto loo attheresults.

olingthata boycan


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76/406

G51

uttab, orelementary

uttabsarescattered

butplacedonlyin

cationalrate,orta ,of

Theyareunderthedirect

murorpoliceofficial,

modifiedandadopted

vince,throughwhose

ncebetweenthehead-

heeducationalcentreat

ss,themastercommunica-

mamurforwardingthe

vincialOfficethrough

uttabapupillearnsto

mplearithmetic,

ndhisdutytowardshis

worn,andschoolwor

boyfromhelpinghis

attimeswhenheis

o sandmaterialsare

eeofcharge. onsof

arechargedafeeof

s tosay,oneshilling

donCollegeat hartoum,

ofdrygoods.


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77/406

Mr. amesCurrie,

us,staff,and actual

linspectorsaresent

e indisaccessibleto

ionof the udan, anditis

edtodrawthemaway

rcropsor careoftheir

etheyoungergeneration

tiousthantheirelders.

inishedhisthree years

yschools,hegoesbac

ntage, averysmall

e primaryschools.

aboy istrainedfor

learnsadvancedre-

Arabic,alittlepractical

and-measuring.Atthe

urseintheprimaryschool,

uatelyaminorof fic ial

reamonth. Egyptians

sitions iftheyare

isheldattheprimary

swhoshowspecialability


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78/406

G53

edouttogoontothe

11thenumberof boysat

4,ofwhom57were

rimaryschoolsfrom

ndraftedwerethoseof

oys) O mdurman(30)

e r (9 ) H a l f a ( 2) a n d

yschool namely,

dssopic edoutof the

cateintotwosections.

orteaching,theother for

sectionistaughtin

achersforthe uttabs,

employoftheGordon

pretersandc ler s. The

oywhoenters the

ears course,andwhen

intothePublic Wor s,

therbranchesofpublic

ectionisgivenin

ctorsandboo sare

cellentasitis, has


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79/406

rabletendencies.The

narelargely Egyptian,

dthatsomeofthem,

anings,maynothave

eeffectupontheminds

o leavetheengineer-

nd,sometimesleave

heirboots, asoneEnglish

e.Thesetendencies,

ttothewise correction

,who havesurmounted

dealingwiththeproblem

noftheGordonC ollege

o f h e i h s . A sh e i h ,

rsonof standing,sothat

resentthebestArabblood

willfindone ofthe

ntelligentyouth, andtwoof

eachagedaboutnineteen.

seyouthsandtheirc om-

flowingrobes,sashes

nsuchamilieuas the

oms.Theirfatherslived

dfanaticalbarbarism


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80/406

G55

days.Thesetheirsons

whichdifferslittlefrom

y.Theyhavetheir

eirloc ers,theirsystem

alledalfus),their

Theyarelovable

eto anappealtotheir

on.AnEnglishmanwho

uarterstoldmethattheir

c e t w a s as e e n as t h at

blicschoolboy.

oughthe primary

dattheendof their

ecomecadis,ulemas,

ver, thatthesonsof those

athonthe slaughter-

votethemselvesentirely

tthesonsof thefighting

themselvestomild

sheerwasteofe c ellent

therefore,aMilitary

ordonC ollege,whichisa

dhurst. TheC adetsof the

alltheirliterarytraining


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82/406

G57

machine-runningand

l nowledge,anditis

r thepremises,toseethe

whichprevail.The

t,andhave,asa matterof

thewor of thenewCollege

nrailings,theelectric

ture. nadditionto

schoollearnhowto

reinstructedin re-

onesofthesystem.

romwhatonesawatGordon

dbeenthusiastic.The

oomtoclass-room he

, thewor shopshumming

blyimpressedbythe

nds(theGordonC ollege

entgameandoftenmeet

dbythe eeninterest

heirwor . fhe udged

ouldappearideal.But

ect,and itwouldbe

etobe withoutblemish.


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83/406

inmindduringour

notmatter tuppenc e,

thewelfareof the udan

eworldto beround

lcontinuetobe,

years,is thathemay

yisundevelopedfor

lbe formanyyears

the nativeteacher,

wor , istoproduc ethe

ndaGovernment

ofboy whoisornamental,

ryatthepresentstage

Thistendencywillhave

andtheprimary schools

ustasmanyboysasc an

ofessionalandcom-

oweverintelligentthe

ybe. Theindustrial

ent, butartisansmustnot

fagric ulture. tis

entthattheeducationratein

in durra.O necannot

ot bepossibletogive


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G59

educationaswell,similar

nalfarmsandsettlements

ouldbeplacedin

esameconditionsas

ops. ammorethan

uofmyignorance, butin

hoccursimmediatelyto

1910,publishedthis

swhic hbeardirectlyon

eportof theB erber

send,Governorofthe

headingof Educa-

t fearthatanumber

lsasameansofma ing

heirchildrenandeventu-

ts.. ..Underthis

thatthe eniorMedical

has indly furnishedme

e: Pupilsf romthese

dicale aminationasto

mployment,anditis

physi uesmostof them

provefromthe


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AR

resultofeduca-

n, GovernorofDongola

farthemostadvanc ed

nce.Lastyear recom-

heradvancement,

class. incethen,

ulyre-studiedthe uestion,

niteconclusionthatsuch

thereforenowwithdraw

on.Myreasonforthis

derthattheeducationof

ovinceshouldbecon-

oran,reading,writing,

ndgeographyofEgypt

ec hildrenbec omeover-

offoreignlanguages,

theywillrefuseto

life,andwillimagine

vernmenttofind them

thereforeamfirmly

hoolsshouldbe uttab

ngprimaryeduc ationtobe

.


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G 1

attheopeningof the

d itc henerurgedthe

ess andc autiousgoing

udan.Thesamewarn-

cativemeasures. n

gelse,itis necessaryto

ththetribes nownas

o u th . o r e du ca t io n ,

tteroffact,has never

ness,andneverwill.The

olabour and, shouldwe

a whiteman seducation,

curseinsteadofa

e uestionmustbe

mission schools.The

glo-Egyptian udanis

olidaysare ridays(the

,Bairam,C ourban

rophet sBirthday).

rnmentschools,there-

houldtherebeany

hristianityinsuch

ollege,theresult,as

sionaryspiritmust


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AR

sconfusionandill-

sonmissionariesare

theNorth,wherethe

ed, whileinthe outh,

eyaregivenafreehand.

ems and haveheard

remoresuccessfulat

heChristians, forthereason

nde plicitdirections

aremoreeasilycom-

rain.

otinanywaydis-

alwor ,andmission

untryhaveundoubtedly

tissometimescomplained

hristianconvertenters

becomesaMoslem,for

ousbeliefis interfered

theboy senvironment

encehisattitudeof

while,thatmenofthe

nariesandthe Austrian

aw illleaveamar for

chtheyhavedevoted


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G 3

ytheyaredoinga great

nthropology,fol lore,

dyofsuch peoplesas

u s, andtheothertribes

eand intimatecontact.


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F ALL C O LO U R "

nspringthewarm,

wnintoyournose,

ve alongoneofthe

um.Thetelegraphposts

uredhousesloo more

andprosaicinthe

sbrown,sun-ba ed

hesizeofalargeparish

ndenter.The interior

msdimafterthe sandy

hebody ofthehall,

rowsuponrows,are

dressedinwhitefroc s

fnothingasmuchas

theredtogetherfor

forthec omple ions


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F ALL C O LO U R " 5

eiseveryshadeofs in,

dingdownthrough

tthedimplesandbloom

est, abloomwhic h

hesatinsurfac eandte ture

mstresses eepthelittle

sittwhohasmade

rgoodbehaviourwhis-

wrigglinglittleperson,

tothatshyand solemn

eivesherguests.To-

camparereceivingthe

thismulti-coloured

herwithsomeofthe

ersandbrothers,wear-

eirfacescheerfulwith

ition,sitononesideof the

ntheother. tisthe

ay of theGirls c hoolof

hoolsinthe udan,and

Rufaa,isaGovernment

aremissionschools

atAtbara,andoneat

artoumisthelargest,


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E AR

ohundredpupils.There

ceor religioninthe

-sectarian,andevery

brownorwhite,is wel-

esimplestelementsof

ng,arithmetic,history,

ever,isonlytaught

a orityofchildrenlearn

ne, foreverychild

oustoshowof fbefore

therearerecitationsin

handArabicpart-

aloguebetweentwo

ning,inArabic.This

usapplausefromthefathers

educated and

omethingine pressiblyc omic

thingaboutfourorf ive

in le, littlestar, orsome

andoneyoungre-

hynessthatshe brea s

y,tobecomfortedand

artcomeseasily,almost

en.


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F ALL C O LO U R " 7

ngsportogan

mentsareserved,andthe

erstroopoutagain,to

athomehowsplendidly

azlihasac uittedherself

t, thin swhatane -

abletoma eforher

eis ofmarriageable

youngwomencanloo

epupilswerechildren.

psittatthree married

cameandwentin their

youngwomanwhose

er,studying renchin

sc hoolandsaidthatshe

eEnglishc lasses, sothat

ateherselfinhisabsence.

eticinthiswoman s

beginningsofEnglish

her age,inorderthat

rned,mightfindthat she,

oreignlearning.

bandsofthebetter class

well-educatedwife,


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AR

ase.TheEnglishlady

chooltoldmethetale

repupils ofhers,and

thelightthatit casts

essoftheEgyptian.

cassian,theelder,amore

beingas intelligentas

oan ioustolearnwas

rparents toletherstay

earafterheryounger

rwasa nicegirl,but

essinteresting.Their

theeldergirl s uic ness,

hisyoungerdaughter,

centreduponhersister.

gyptianof f ic erina udanese

herandas edthehand

hefatheragreed,and

ented. hortlyafter-

merchantalsocameto

estthathewouldgive

nmarriage.The

ave ustpromisedher

hter,muchthe

gentof thetwo,


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97/406

lc allN andthe

ter,M.W henthe

eEgyptianandhis

eweddingchamber,the

rasN. Tremblingly,

thatshewasM and

dwasfuriousthat

solvedto sendherhome

eedaysofmarried

hathecouldofferto his

onsideredagreatdisgrace

oherownpeople.

erparents,andhas

onaccountofthe

er.W henremonstrated

edthatheli edthe

hewishedtorevenge

havingdeceived

aughterin hartoum

eroffact,is notnearly

oman s. Thew ifeof

andseldomgoesinto

labours, itistrue, but

eblac ersheis, theeasier


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101/406

haic bronzef igure andfor

t.

eryhighamongthe

esandpeoplesthatma e

durman,buthowever

blac daughtersofHam

delitytothosethey

gdaysanold udanese

inwhich wasstaying,

chwouldhaveeasily

asherwomanduchess,she

he beganoperations

wor inastateasnearly

conventionsallowed.

hingofher history.

andinthe halifa stime

dofarichmerchantin

ssessedofseveralwives.

m,andonebyonehis

poverty -stric en, he

forsa enhadnotWasna,

onlyaslave-woman,

mincomfortbyhertoil.

orherc are, buttoo it

e dayshecametomy


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F A LL C O LO U R " 7 8

yesandtoldherthat

hadtowor sohardto

riend. Y ourlifew illbe

essW asnawasincon-

erhearhimsaynowon

sthedayyougoto

hisplac eisveryempty "

otregardblac nessasa

otrary , shethin sawhite

utsheli estoborrow

tewomanallthe same.

rtingfor homeonhis

lona udaniBimbashi

ay b r in g y ou b a c ? "

r se l f ba c , E c e ll e nc y

oureturn, theyan-

ast moment,ashe

utherblac headout

c ellenc y , bringmebac ,

msiya(asunshade), she

gure.

gamyis,ofcourse,

ring theunhappiness

.Thefirstwifeoften

andifsheherselfis child-


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104/406


remanyhappy

nt,whoisloo edupon

ectioninnative har-

ewhichshowshowtact,

ofillogicalargument,will,

ddomestic arswhich

edindivorce.Acertain

asaveryprettyand

nehimmanychildren.

nC ollege themother

woman,ofwhomher

d. O nedaythisEnglish

h,sawthe littlewoman

sher.Greetings

hi swifestilllingered,

accordinglyenteredthe

sorderedcoffeetobe

hervisitorwasagitated,

tressed w illyounottellme

telydeniedthatany-

gitationrose atthe

ouareintrouble, per-

gently.


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AR

rvebro edown. H ave

maninyourhouse "

useisyours), repliedthe

butwhythen Has

y "

s hi s w i fe , b u t h a ve

hallnevergobac .

answer,andthewhole

overtheircoffee.As

ouldgatherfromthe

thadhappenedwasthat

ashingoutherhusband s

emonthebac ofac hair

ndprettypair,andthe

em,hadputthem on

sfather,wantingthe

eremissingand, losing

e,accusingherofhaving

n,ofbeing abadmana-

houseill, andsoon. The

ed,declaredshewould

.

g,whenherlistener,


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dah,beheldtheBimbashi

oad. hewentout.

din answertohergreeting

ifehaslef tthehouse, and

d, heishere come

matterout.

smoree c itedargu-

ef irst, andta inga

atawomanshouldbe

thehouse,andshould

einthefamily.H e

e stateofindignationwith

ofwhichthenativeisso

ay s a i n d hu s ba n d a

soon.

insilence,andadis-

hentheir eldestdaughter

sordered,andassoon

ene changed,the

rgument, untilitloo ed

.

tedhervoice,andsaid:

enagreatdeal, andnow

ou, B imbashi, may


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ouhavesaid, butthere

areverypleasedwith

dthat, insteadofgoingto

shecameto herEnglish

theawordto anyone.

A ndyoudidverywisely

ofcausing alam(tal )

rtoum. ouarepleased

has notproclaimed

hascomeinsteadto

dviceto bothisthis.

tellnooneaboutthismis-

ou,orgreatunhappiness

ngbeas before.Thus

hashappenedto-day.

advice.TheBimbashi

eforamantowal out

ewminuteslaterthewife

faceveils,andwent

ene ttimetheEnglish-

ereascontentedafamily


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endingfromthesteam

a w tw o me n t al i n g

proachedthem,and

ymanner,he liftedthe

sandhis forehead.

ordinaryindividual

ionandmediumheight.

andressandatarbush, li e

andagaudytie.

a s e d m yc o mp a ni o n.

i s o ne o f t he M a hd i s

tthe udan, itwould

aof sainthoodcould

manwhowasproved

falseboaststobea

sincrumbledruinsas


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110/406


111/406

ehousein which

devolvedinmuc hthe

w itsorigin, noonec ould

orwhenhedied,or

enthere. omeone

eenan appearance

ay,whiteflagswaved

dit petitioners,

othe palisadesand

tsastheydidso andan

ythetomband eptfullof

thatthirsty wayfarers

e. twasa holyplac e,

andperhapsthepietyof

dinrealitycreateda

boutthespot:who

ofamancalled Abd-

ancecausedbythemin

eenmadefamiliartothose

murderofMr. c ott-

owedswiftly,andAbd-

ndhanged buttherehave

fairs,which,hadthey

mptness,mighthave


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3

Abd-el- aderwasa

t othershavehad

n1910, at itiabinthe

mangavehimselfout

orMasterof theTimes, and

policesenttoseize him,

f thev illagewhohadbeen

ytheO fficerofthePolice.

alley sC ometalsopro-

itappeared,asitwas

ventsin thehistoryof

theunrestround inga,

ingMahdism,wasso

sdispatchedto uell

ordofannotlongagoa

outas aidnaEissa

afollowing,begantogive

ptlyputan endto,and

f theso-calledC hrist

naticsgaina hearing

sanargument.The

vertedatthepointof

werfulmissionary.

ofre-conversionisforce,


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114/406


115/406

AR

aintheB lueNilePro-

ed ustnow, onepoor

ianMissionC onvent

f . hewasterror-stric en

valofwhatshehad

halifa, andweptand

nunsoftheMissionand

sheroic esc ape, onec anread

B utheismodestenough

theendured. H ee -

hencapturedin

ainandagaintosay the

ally ta enof f tobe

ereadytodieforhisbelief.

sengerrodeup ona

nottobe illed, asthe

eunluc yto illapriest.

rememberedthetradition

mmed,flyingonedayfrom

eredbyaC hristianpriest,

sfollowersneverto

h r wa l de r w as t a e n b ac ,

u l, wherehisfanatic al

vesbythrustingtheir


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7

and abbingatthepoor

odywascoveredwith

ndroundthetu lli e

f-crazedwithe -

out thathewouldsay

orcedtomarry,and he

ngas abraid-ma er

ingthewaytomanufacture

aidtopiec esandma ing

epthimselfandother

ehadseveralchildren

hoarestillsupportedby

amelythathebro ehis

dto celebrateMass,

ofasceticismagain.

edif fic ultthan ather

assubse uenttoit, and

ohelpedtwonunstoescape

reasedthedanger.

heconventalsowas

ortunateinmarryinga

eenanydaymar etingin

children,andismuch

hepresent uperior

,asuccessortoMother


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118/406

anditsghostswal

tomboftheMahdi

dneverhavebeen

nsignificantedifice.

avedisappeared

ashesscattered,and

wsdef initelywherethehead

l eepthesec retinv iolate.

bisnothingbutfourruined

heat-blencheds y,

urwayoveraheapof

Wal carefully,for

ousehere.Lizards,

littlewretches,whis

ch,andafewpoor

owedgrowthbeneath

ingsun,havestruc

al,theold storesand

wherethereisthedusty

piano, apathetic relic, and

hfirearmsfora few

alifa shouse, nopalace

hencomparedtothe


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utsandtu lswhichc om-

day. tisbuiltofmud

theroomsarealittlebigger,

dyouare shownthe

ithitstapsforc oldandhot

e yetaprincely

garatribesmanaccus-

dhardfare. tisin-

Englishmeninthe

osaythatthethic mud

nhotweather. Thereis

greatpray ings uare, the

edany touristconducted

canseethese, andre-people

yhauntedbyremi-

hauntedbytheliving.

outafoot. ouloo

e thatforaright hand

wereamputatedby

alifa.Therearemanyso

rner,wrappedina

womansitswith

gsun. H erreason

ependentuponalms.


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r indredallhavebeen

elfwaspassedinheryouth

her. heloo solder

ehasbeenfullofsomany

thatsheisstill alive.

oneof theliv ingghostsof

spaceofa fewyards,

ewrec sofwhic hthe

sperity,isfull,andmust

nturyhaspassed

glishhavewrought


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eascuriousanethno-

bedesired.Thereare

s aalis, haagis, B er-

illu s, Din as, Niam-Niams,

s, ews, Gree s, and

atedlineagethatthey

E pertscantellsome-

bal characteristics

mar sthreediagonal

inguishthe aali, three

igi, andfourscarsina

utthesewasms,or

waystobedependedon.

ntothe fleshwithsome

nrubbingingun-

swilldecoratetheirbodies

rman arabbit-warren


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124/406

yhuts orshelters.

enstill,thoughthe filth

gsof thepast,and

and fairlywidestreets

frubbish-heaps.But

herthanonestory and

oddconglomerationof

nylittleerectionsof

our cornersbyroughly

whosec ounteristheowner s

heretheartisanssit

earthenfloorinviewof

theseloo li ethedwellings

thanmen.But cleanli-

e BritishGovernment.

adon eydiedinthestreet,

ecamebones,andthe

Nowtheownerwould

andslowcamels,their

nttheirgreat pads

y,threadtheirpath

lecttheminor rubbish

mdurman, slatternas

nnowadays,andonthe

centabout thetown.


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of fryingoilandonions

hopswhere ebabsare

thereisthewholesome

et,whereheapsof

lletanddomesticcereals

helu uriousodourof the

eet-scentedgumsandsandal-

esubtlepleasuresofthe

heperfumesellerswho

ndfran incense,myrrh

withall,is thepungency

dust,whichisblown

sts,and findsitsway

yourc lothes. tis

ezecando,and howhot

lthetrades, asinmost

ratedonefromanother,

o , thetent-ma ersin

mmurorcotton-cloth

nother,and soon,

hantsandartificers.

tultifiescompetitioncon-

dlyagoodthing,though

utc hers sou , itc anbe


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129/406

AR

udanesebeauty or

lyandpatientlytooled:

thosewhohavea taste

Touristsfresh

oheartheverystones

" c annotmarvelenoughover

milestheygetinplenty

blac facesaroundthem,

ndobse uiousnessthat

abazaarinanEgyptian

reapparent,andone

he udanGovernmentfor

thatthereishardly

manwhocouldnottell

eitherenduredor

n thepastreignof

irofprosperityand

rman.Doubtless,were

ine tendedtocruelty

innocentwhogrins

lywouldstraightwayturn

pebutin restrainthe


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erousinO mdurman,

nw illpayapreposterous

ofgettingmarried

ysoftheMahdi.The

marriageisthatacertain

ebride sdowry, andis

,butby theprospective

shandedover toher

ndisusuallyspentin

herhalfcanbeclaimed

ddivorc esher. nthe

wingtothe e travagance

ingswerecarriedout,

ndedasdowriesbythe

aidens,theverypoor

heMahdi promptly

houldbef i edatone

nshillingsfora woman

sothat,althoughmarriage

c ommodity inthe udan

snotimpossible.But

eing madethatthe

A well-to-dolabouring

muc has 15to 30for

ytothesouthern


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133/406


134/406

G A ND I N GE R 1 01

eforsomemisdemeanour

earingthe punishment

udaneseta eapride

nching,weptand

ob e ar i t , ef f en d im " T h e

aalin,weresodisgusted

sgracethathe was

theycrowdedaround

ggedthathemightbef logged

madea songofmany

with cannotbearit,

f rain. TheB erberine, unableto

vatelytothecomposer

somemoneyifhe

git.H istormentor

ndpromisedtoc omply and

wassucceededby

fortunateBerberine s

nicallycelebratedthe

adbribedhim tocover

sc ollec tionisnotmade

gsof the udan. O ne

mewithsomerough

endownbyhim,and


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AR

tedafewrepresentative

estingfor topical

interest, fore ample, is

erWadelH abuba, the

murderofMr. cott-

edinaformerchapter,

ventuallycaughtand

DEL ADERWADEL

ven, HassanandH ussein,

hefaithsupportersfirm,

myestablishes

ni uities.

maybeimproved,

alinf idelsmayperish

feet. TheProphetw ith ohl-stained eyes

aturemedium

unsurpassed, wal shumbly:

erciful.Mypeople,

tprints B eyestrong, bebold

forthena edsword.

eprosperousareashamed,

mayatnewsofouruprising.

nceivedandponderedmydesign

or stablishingthefaith.

utify ingtheeyesw ithantimonyor ohlis

bs.Mohammedissupposedto have

thetwofrontupper teeth,andthisis


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of thoughtfulmindandmien,

tile inresource

s, Messiahtomyaid

B adr, handagandTebu .

e Prophetsfollowing,

dredhastensto ouraid.

, andw illnothesitate

fromfollowingmyfate.

adreadillaswell

H eavenintoH ell.

c t . o u a s i f t hi s i s so

tate: returntome, thengo

A tbestyouarec alledafool

restcomesnot,isthe rule.

withstrengthof swordandspear,

happens. willnotfear.

ngthemortaldown

mHeaven sc rown.

bscure,andhavebeen

sameorderof poemis

a, the ultanofDarfur.

ryit isnotwithout

egrotyrantofthe

pt er X V I I I ) .

tGod, andMahommedisH isA postle,


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138/406


e simple,butthose

st.Thefollowinglove

untofitsnaivete.The

inginthef irstpart her

astlines.

tpresence,

morningwafts

sofmylove:

ponmy breast.

ossip

assunreo edof .

c olour.

indred.

angerneverc easeT

voic eissweet1

thesleeperswa en,

waywewillflee

m a e m y p le a .

Mylove scontent, answer.

tsellwoodtogether.

e orabuseme

rlaf fec tedT

t dearthouarttomet

versharetheew ithme

th lovebutthee.


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E AR

eisapoemfullofmore

sc onfusedforWestern

olationswhichseem

RE S

abroadwithhead-ropeloosened

mien listenforhercalling,

esentmentpleasurebringspeace

he graceofhersupplemovement.

a.fsaywhyam thusinbondage

has flownfromthe uarterofUmrein,

smothertendsand watcheshisdesire,

newbythetears ofthewatcher.)

ew ithher thesummonsof friendship,

esofdetrac tors, happytheglamourofyouth.

elle,wanderinginthevalley

see, thereismybeloved

emanin, isdistantpeac ebeuponyou,

randshiningteeth, bluelipsl andgentle

,erectuponbeautifulfirmroundshoulders,

e andcushionedsoftnessofbosom

heedingthecryof yourlovers,

es,in yourhandsallgladnessandpleasure.

ericaldesignation.

elow hartoumontheWhiteNile.

veryletterhasanumericale uivalent

htymaymean atma, astheletterswhen

rlstattootheirlipsblue,


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e,hergracesbaffledescription,

ourse,her scentthanthegasis sweeter,

thehealingofherglances,

neyeardeathbetterthan partingwith

Nur. f f reeastheA nsarof ir a

shers in, f ragrantthebalmofherbreath

r-tippedastheherbagedown bytheriver.

e desert.Who oouldreplaceherT

elMadudi, wheregentlebreezesplay.

parestrungw ith ewelsthatnonec anbuy.

escort,in brightgoldarehis wagespaid.

daintily -clad, breath-giv ingEli ir

zizbeforethetarifa,

handstraightare theflowinglinesof

reasonable,norwayward.

ner.H owcompleteherdescriptiont

c , onthec urv inglineofhershoulders,

nofgold, asthemooninheavenherface.

gazelle,wanderinginthedesert

apableof beingpro-

sungto amonotonous

edarabou eh.W ith

ldinO mdurman. tisc alledgasis

picture ofaGree priestonthebottle.

hartoummadebyElNurel habir,

nof the halifawere nownasAnsar,

outadaynorthofDongola. O neof the

attleswasfoughthere,andtheAnsar

f romit.


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mandown,butthe

bro eandthemanwas

ne havenamed B oy s

sed,bylove amoverpowered,

stabofsteel, sometimesw ithblisterof f lame.

myhearthas uic enedandflowered

stohis love,shallnotminedo thesame

ay, fearofsc andalisherwhim

t, butforslumberdoesshecare.

hes C anamantheoceansw imT

women,yearerare,ye arerare

ermademec arrywaterf romthewell

ringsintheMangalafashionf :

bec onsme myheartbeginstoswell

llac hild, not now ingloveorpassion.

91stNight, AdventuresofBulu iya. There-

hoseli ehehadneverseen inhiswander-

wereinhueli easgold. Helandedand

onuntilit wasnightfall,whentheflowers

hegloomli estars. eeingthissight, he

suredlytheflowersofthislandare of

hesunand falltoearth,wherethewinds

terundertheroo sandbecomeali ir,

ndthereofma egold. " A l k sirmeans

sopher s tone.

shion,Le.atthetopof theear.


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AR

oral.O necanalmost

dsasonereadsit.

outhhaspossessedme.

c eofmydeartrustinglove.

holdherclaspedagainstmybreast

anaid, saveGodabove

oosedthefleecycloudsaloft,

stant,farapart,

irteeth, theirs insarefairandsof t,

lovermustdepart.

con uresbeforemyeyes

efromillthe youngsheeprove,

formil untoitsmotherhies,

utoneglancecravesmylove.

ght mustmyvigil eep,

restnorsolacefinds

c s, myc attleandmysheep,

thetormentofourminds

s,all nightawa e ' velain,

passalongmyway.

er, andsoughttoeasemypain.

earfulsheturnedaway.

dedinthecamelsongs.

thhershesaid C onsiderthat belong

tribalc ustomwouldnotpermithimto


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AC K 117

ooneeverhearsof them,

rac e.

hasbeengivento the

hasbeenwholly

ssiblethataserv icemay

nGermandiplomatist,

spired originatorofthe

oupfrom hartoum

doandbac c annotuse

ortrenders thee pense

efuellingstationsplaced

iteNile,youwillsee

oodplac edontheban ,

aproc esstowhichyou

fyou ourneysouth-

vantages indeed, itis

ood-fuelta esalong

oc c upiesagreatdealof

anditeatsup the

,itoccurredtothis

dthemassofweedbe

burning,thesudd,

ustaswellprovidethe

hichwereuseful accord-

rovalofthe udan


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157/406

AR

osee alittleofwild

ationof theNorthern

ing.

fdescribingthat

togiveitalmostasitstands

trivialitiesrecorded,

fancythattrivialities

atmosphereofa place

tmes andthisboo

factsasmuchas im-

ee peditionwasthe

y ustbelowthehigh

eNile, bythegardenof the

hichhappenstobeoneof

rtoum.TheDepartment

ovidinglabour,but

ffic.TheC ephalonia

thanaglorifiednugger,

n and, li ealltheup-

tendedbytwosatellites,

bottomednuggers,or

rd itwasnecessary

ythroughagroupofdon eys


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159/406

AR

ng,asonebyonethey

nifeorthecoo . When

mattheendofourtrip,

et, gazingatthes inof

.

comely udanigirls,

ardedtheirbluetobes

hartoumwellbehindus,

estofdraperiesabout

ereblac andshining

rebac ofonegirlasshe

itmighthaveservedas

eirhairwasbraided

rintohundredsoflittle

g toeachplait,andthe

aredwithgrease.

f reshbreeze, foritwas

mometerondec stand-

renheitintheshade. Past

he downstream,andat

dMoghrenPoint, whereone

sonry,theunfinished

ectedbyaformer

ralatthemeetingofthe

fthetwostreamsis


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165/406

E AR

p-streamatmidday.

of theengineasthe

e wheelofthereisin

droning songofa

uggerdraggedalongside,

hepaint.Thenatives

eban saretoofaraway

ng,andallyoucando

lsiesta.

ichisonehundred

m hartoum,theNile

ueimitselfit isonlya

tDueimin thatmagical

nthedogandthewolf.

eepingrosylittleclouds

puregreens y, while

in heavyclouds,and

madea whiteand

stheriver. hadows

etherafterthe long

C ephaloniacameto

shallowshoreaspossible,

rowaboardfromthe

tiveortwowadedto

whiteripplesabouttheir


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AC K 127

mil yshoreintothelittle

gainstthes y . A perfume

aitedtoseewhatwould

pervadingbreath of

-toldtale,stirredthe

sedtheromanceofthe

townbeforeus.

areofvoiceson the

of idlersDongolaw ifor

ytoconveyusacross

mwerestrippedtothe

ethatofHerc ules.

ysmiledup atus,and

rawnyandblac ,were

streortwowewere

roughthe water,across

wnonthesandyshore

ho nowitbyday-

ngeandbeautiful.

l eddownonew ide,

er,sweet-smellingand

egums,grain,incense,

e posedforsaleindeep

rass.Theshopswere


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AR

therea merchanthad

ina shamadanorglass

rdlynecessarywith

pli eagoldenlamp.

Afewwhite-clad

erinlowtoneswhere

es,andatonecorner

minoesassomeplayersin

theirpiec es. We en-

theincensethat per-

ot now ingwhatitwas

swerein vain.At

whosaton hisheels

hop, loo ingli ean

orydraperies,made

ehension and,vanishing

hbouringmudhouse,

ttleinscribed Ess

theresourc efulA bduap-

theL amp, weboughtwhat

i elumpsof inc ensethat

c hhasbeenplayedw ithby

dallmannerofgums

entstreetbroughtus


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AC K 181

dedfivewives,each

whoseinhabitants

asmanydisadvantages

ointofv iew . tisvery

mnmonths,called

therains haveswollen

hors. ordownthe

,bearingthemalignant

andthe hors, orbac -

tasbreeding-placesfor

th-givingnorthwind

hreemonthshavee ac ted


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AC K 133

ogaol " twasthis

ce,andthe comely

taunttheyoung

urmothersandgrand-

es,ourfathersandgrand-

edthem butyouare

ued,wouldcreepup

basor getbagged

withthe slavestoparade

duponasaspec iesof

basare uiteabletoget

ebelrunssheerdownina

edfeetfromedgeto

edtoc atchac oupleof

ewasafeudbetween

littleslavingraids,and

eendof theirspears,

rtheprecipice,tobe

harproc sbelow.

enshavewrestling

ssorandMrs. eligmann,

fntoma eethnological

eseconteststhough


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AR

dtobe spectators.

hatthetree-topsaround

seswhohadswarmedup

nersofthese wrestling

erin marriage.Men

agetovillage,the

redgreatmen.

ntdownthrough outhern

. H eapproac hedav illage,

andsatdownunder a

H ehadenteredinto

awhoc ouldtal A rabic ,

yofcamelsappeared.

pede.TheDin asof

camelbefore,andwere

them. twasalong

persuadedtoreturn and

enButlerBey,thin ing

iestabelowthe tree,

nothisluc ydayfor

seenapproaching,com-

nandboys,whosang a

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