Nathalie Vinning - Discover Africa Mag

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africa

Issue 5 Summer 2010 £3.50

GhanaWelcome to West Africa’s friendliest destination

‘AKWAABA’

Summer 2010 Discover Africa 3

ContentsPg 4 Opinion

Tourism Under Neglect

Pg 5 Profile

An Uncertain Future

Pg 6-7 OpportunitiesVolunteering

Pg 8 Feature

The Land Before Time

Pg 9 Feature

Cape Coast

Pg 10 Review

Asanka Locals

Pg 11 TechnicalPlan Your Trip

Pg 5

Pg 8

Pg 4


OpinionTourism Under Neglect

Sick and unhappy, a chimp huddles in the corner of its cage at Kumasi Zoo

A filthy, polluted beach lies just metres from Cape Coast’s historic castle

Ghana boasts an abundance of tourist spots, but before it is able to establish itself as West Africa’s hottest tourist destination, it first needs to maintain these to a higher standard.After visiting Kumasi zoo for example, I couldn’t help thinking that the capture of the animals was just plain cruel. The zoo claims to give those animals with no chance “one last chance.” However, after seeing the animals myself, I would strongly disagree with this statement.The cages are cramped and many of the animals are either sick or deeply distressed. One chimp was so perturbed he began pelting guests with fruit and excrement when they got near his cage.The zoo is a valuable asset as it does save many animals from possible extinction and it is both educational and fascinating. However, it requires drastic improvement; the cages need to be

expanded and more needs to be spent on the general health of the animals.It is a similar story of neglect in Cape Coast, where its picturesque beaches have become little more than a dumping ground for the towns waste. Plastic bags, bottles, flip-flops, toothbrushes and excrement litter the sand, which is not only unsightly it poses an obvious health risk. Considering the major tourist attractions boasted by Cape Coast in the form of its historic slave castles, which Obama visited on his tour of Ghana last year, it is unclear why such little attention has been paid to the maintenance of this area. Ghana has the potential to become a booming tourist success, but first the authorities need to concentrate their efforts on improving and maintaining its attractions.


An Uncertain FutureInterview

As the Government impose harsh new regulations on hawk-ers and street ven-dors this month, we spoke to Ras Levit, an established shop keeper in Osu to find out what it would mean for him.

“Obruni! Welcome to my kingdom.” These words were

accompanied by a complicated hndshake as I was led into a small room smothered in carvings, paintings, exquisite cloth and much more.A simple “wow” was all I could muster. Ras Levit grinned, before clearing space on a chair and assuring that I should be the one to sit whilst he crouched in front of me. Levit has owned his shop in Osu for nearly

ten years now and it is quite literally his life.“If I lost this shop, I would lose everything. It is my home, my livlihood, my all. It is my reason for waking up in the morning.” he proclaimed passionately whilst adjusting some wooden elephants in the corner.The reason why Levit’s future has been plunged into uncertainity is the Government and their new regulations which they intend to implement at the end of the month.“They are clueless,” he sighed.“They sit in their nice offices and drive around their fancy cars, preaching about how much they care about the people and how everything they do is for the people. It’s nonsence. All they care about is lining their back pockets. The system in Ghana is so corrupt, and it’s us that suffer.”The Government plan to slowly clear the streets of hawkers and street vendors, wich they claim are causing disruption and congestion. They will start by relocating

them to one of the market areas in Accra, and their eventual plan is to construct another indoor mall in their place.“Although the Government have cleverly disguised their plan by using the word relocate; if Ihad to leave Osu, I might as well close my shop.” Levit explained.“Osu is a key tourist area and I can pick up a lot of trade here. Not only that, I have built up a relationship with the people here. They are like family. Everyone knows Ras Levit’s shop.”As he said this, we were interrupted by two Ghanaians who entered the shop and spoke animatedly with Levit for a few minutes. There was a lot of pointing and back slapping. I smiled where appropriate. After they had gone Levit told me he had to go and collect some supplies so I thanked him for his time.He insisted that I come and visit him again before I left Ghana and handed me a small wooden carving.“This is for you,” he smiled.


VolunteeringAre you tired of the same boring routine?Do you want to do something amazing with your summer this year?Then why not chose to do a volunteering programme with the worlds leading organisation, Projects Abroad.

Country Director, Tom Davis explains why Ghana is the obvious choice.

Akwaaba is the word that will accompany you in Ghana from the moment you step off the plane in the suffocating heat till you re-luctantly whisper a memory laden “Good-bye” when leaving this friendly country.Ghana will feel like an explosion, like a sensory overload; it will enchant you in a scary, but pleasant way. The host family will make you feel like you’re a Ghanaian. If you’re enthusiastic, proactive and creative, your work will give you all that you put in and more. And because we are here for you, all this is a promise.

Projects Abroad is the leading global organiser of overseas volunteer work placements. Our wide range of projects, including Teaching, Care, Conservation & Environment, Medicine & Healthcare, Sports, Community projects, Business, Law & Human Rights and Journalism, are designed specifically for the needs of the communities in which we work, whilst giving our volunteers the very best experience of volunteering abroad.


OpportunitiesFind out what it’s really like to be a Volunteer, with our exclusive Volunteer stories...

Looking back, it’s hard to believe how much my decision to do a Journalism placement in Ghana changed my life.During my time there I worked on two different newspapers, ‘The Ghanaian Times’ and ‘The National Trust’. One of the best things about doing work experience there was that from the moment I stepped off the plane, I was a working Journalist. It really was hands on. Living and working in Accra was an amazing experience, from figuring out the hand signals for the

My time in Ghana is a memory that will always stay with me, but my arrival was particularly vivid. As soon as I stepped off the plane, I was hit with a wave of humidity and heat that only a Ghanaian afternoon can provide. During the bus ride to my placement I was agog, and couldn’t take my eyes off the window as images of everyay life in Ghana streamed by: women in beautiful local dress, people carrying anything from water to baskets

JennHerseim-Journalism Sarah Mageean-Teachingbuses I needed to take to work, to jostling for a space at a busy press conference in the sweltering heat.Everything was new and different and I loved it.I returned home with so much more going for me than when I left. I had some real hands on Journalism experience, which made me stand out from the crowd. I also managed to experience a lot of travel whilst I was there, which was not only enjoyable, it gave me a real insight into the country.

of yams on their heads and free range goats and chickens roaming the streets.Even though life was so different to what I was used to, I settled in really quickly and soon felt more at home than I ever have before. The children I tought were great, they were friendly, attentive and desperate to learn. Everyone I met was willing to bend over backwards just to help me and I can safely say I have never met friendlier people. I cannot wait to return.


FeatureThe Land Before Time

If the pace of life in Accra ever gets too much, then simply head up North to discover a different pace of life and a land that time forgot.

There really couldn’t be a bigger ontrast between the Muslim North and the Christian South in Ghana. The South is busy, noisy, hectic, and sometimes just overwhelming. The North on the other hand is relaxed, traditional and peaceful.If you are feeling adventrous then take a bus from Accra. Make sure you schedule in a few stops though as the total journey is just short of 14 hours.

28 year old Aline Rejman, who has been working in Accra for the past month did just that.“I do love Accra, but sometimes it gets a bit much and there are so many fantastic things to see in the North that one day I decided I have to do it.I took a bus from Accra and stopped off in Kumasi to break up the journey. It was long and tiring, but completely worth it when I arrived. The first thing I visited was the ancient mosque at Larabanga. It was stunning and very moving.”The mosque is believed to be the oldest extant building in Ghana and local tradition has it that the mosque’s founder was

travelling through the region when he discovered the so-called mystic stone which lies on the outskirts of the town. He decided to throw his spear from there, and sleep wherever it landed. When he awoke there were foundations for a mosque, which he built.Aline said: “If you decide to stay in Larabanga, I would recommend the Salia Brothers Guesthouse. They are great and the real treat is having the chance to sleep under the stars on a mat-tress on their rooftop. From there you can also take motorbikes to Mole National Park, which is much more exhilirating than catching the bus.”

Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest wildlife sanctuary and home to over 90 mammal species and 344 bird species.As soon as you step through the wrought iron gates it feels like you could have just entered the step of Jurassic Park. It truely is a different world. The highlight is to see an elephant roaming the bush, 10 metres from where you are stood. But even if you don’t manage to see one, just the experience of walking through the peaceful grounds is satisfying enough.Don’t let the bus ride put you off, because the experience you have in the North really will be unforgettable.


FeatureCape Coast Castle

Natalie Rapperport speaks out about her faveourite tourist spot.

“At 26, I am currently on my 5th visit to Ghana as it is a place I have totally fallen in love with. One place that I return to time and time again, is Cape Coast Castle. It is without doubt my favourite tourist spot in the country. It is not just the stunning architecture I have fallen in love with, it is

the potency that the building holds. If you are lucky enough to get there when there are no other tourists, and you stand still long enough you can almost hear the eeriewispers of ancient slaves.It is worth getting a tour on your first visit, especially as it is included in the admission price. This gives you a much more in depth view and also ensures that you don’t miss

Factfile:

This World Heritage Site is reputed to have been one of the largest slave-holding sites in the world during the colonial era, where Ghanians were stored before being cramped into returning merchant ships and deported to a life of captive labour.

tier it is no more than eight metres square, with no windows and a door barely big enough for a child. The stone floor and walls of this room are covered in a patchwork of scratches where the slaves tried to claw through the walls as they were suffocating. I cried the first time I entered that room.I think this is a tourist site we all should see before we die.”

anything.Overlooking a rocky stretch of coast, I always feel that the white-washed building is far more attractive than a place with its history ought to be. However, once you get below ground into the dingy, claustrophobic dungeons it is a grim and sobering place indeed.One of the most horrific rooms in the castle is a small one located on the lower


Review

Asanka LocalsIf you would like to sample traditional African cusine at it’s finest, then a visit to Asanka Locals chop bar is a must.Asanka locals was first established in the late 90s, when the owner, Mr. Nidday decided to build on the success of his other restaurant, Redd Lobster.he opened his first branch in Madina, but soon opened a sister branch in Osu due to the booming success of his restaurant. There is an extensive menu of delicious dishes, which are freshly prepared by the kitchen staff daily.I was lucky enough to get a chance to look behind the scenes,

where I saw staff hard at work. The kitchen was neat and tidy and boasted a fusion of mouth-watering smells. the most popular dishes had been produced at the start of the day in bulk and were simmering on the stove ready to be served. On my visit I enjoyed Banku, which is made of fermented maize and Okro stew served with crab meat.The dish was extremely tasty and very filling. The only element I struggled with, was actually eating it. Traditionally such a dish would be eaten byhand, which was hard to get used to. The technique

involved tearing off a ball of Banku and scooping up some of the stew. This was made harder by the fact that I could only use my right hand. Traditionally Ghanaians use their right hand for eating and their left hand for the toilet.It is not just the food which will make your visit to Asanka Locals truely memorable, it is also the friendly staff and the traditional crafts on display in the restaurant.A lot of locals dine at Asanka, as well as a huge number of tourists, especially at the Osu branch. Rice balls are very popular on a Sunday, as this

is a traditional dish for that day, whilst Fufu is a bestseller throughout the week.Pascal Denakpo, the restaurants secretary said: “The success of Asanka has been overwhelming. None of us expected it.I am proud to work for such a successful restaurant and for a man who really knows what he is doing.”Mr Nidday has big plans for the future, including a possible relocation and expansion. However, he did not want to disclose any details at present, so watch this space. And in the mean time continue to enjoy Asanka Locals.


Plan your tripGetting there

Visas

Books

When to visit

Money

Health

Bradt’s ‘Ghana’ by Philip Briggs (4th edition 2007) is the most comprehen-sive guide dedicated to Ghana.

The following airlines all run scheduled flights to Accra: Ghana International Airlines, British Airways, Egypt Air, Emir-ates, Kenya Airways and KLM.

There isn’t really a best time to visit Ghana, however, humidity levels are a lot lower between October and April so the heat is more comfortable and there are fewer mosquitoes.

Proof of yellow fever is required for entry. Other vaccinations include tetanus, polio, diphtheria and hepatitis A.Ghana has a high risk of malaria, so ensure you have enough anti malarials.

All visitors to Ghana require a visa to enter the country. These must be applied for in advance from the Ghanian embassy and usually cost around £30.Check well in advance that your passport hasn’t expired as you may be refused entry if your passport is due to expire within six months of your departure date.

The local currency is Cedi and the exchange rate is £1=C1.88.

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Nathalie Vinning - Discover Africa Mag