Natural Dying F09

8/14/2019 Natural Dying F09

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natural

T H E C O M P L E T E G U I D E T O

dyeingfabric,yarn,andfiber

Techniques and recipes for dyeingfabrics, yarns, and fibers at home

EVA LAMBERT&TRACY KENDALL


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also known as Turkey Red, Madder has

been in use for over 5000 years. It is the

rich brick red color that forms the

background of many Turkish kelims and

carpets. But it can also produce brightcarmine reds, purplish reds, orange reds,

and deep brown reds. A truly versatile and

reliable dyestuff.

Root or powderIt is the chopped root of a two- or

three-year-old plant that is most

commonly used; powdered madder

will tend to give brownish tones.

When using madder, the dyebath

should not be boiled as this

will release more yellow.

The mixture must be

heated very slowly, and

should not go beyond a

gentle simmer to get the

brightest red tones.

Place your chopped roots

into the dyebath.

Cover with water and

leave to soak for at least

24 hours to ensure the

madder releases the

maximum color into

the water.

Carefully add the woolen

yarn, pre-mordanted with

alum, into the dyebath.

Dyeing with Madder

Techniques

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Water quali tyThe harder the water, the better the

color. So the story goes, two women

from the same Turkish village were

given the same madder roots to dye

yarn to make carpets. One produced

a slightly blueish red; the other a

brownish red. Confused, the women

went to their supplier who was equally

baffled, until he realized that the

women, although from the same

village, had drawn their water from

two different wells.

It also depends on where, and how, the

madder was grown. As with the water,

the more chalky the soil, the better. So

check with your supplier to find the

source of your madder roots.

If you have soft water, you can try

adding chalk to get the more reddish

colors. During the 19th century in

the Outer Hebrides, urine was added

at the end of the dyeing process to

redden the color.

Ingredients used hereThe sequence below shows 1tsp. (5ml)

of ammonia, per 312oz. (100g) of yarn

to take some of the yellow out of the

red. Commercial madder from local

craft suppliers is probably only two

years old. Generally, the older root the

brighter the red. Eight-year-old roots

will give more purplish reds, but if you

want that youll probably have to grow

your own!

Add more water to

immerse the yarn so it can

move more freely in the

dyebath. This helps to

ensure consistent coloring.

Bring the dyebath slowly to the boil. Make

sure not to heat the liquid higher than 140F

(60C) as this will result in a yellowing of the

color. Keep the dyebath at this temperature

for at least one hourlonger if possible. Let

it cool overnight to allow the yarn to fully

absorb the color.

Take the yarn out of the

dyebath and rinse well,

until the water runs clear.

v SEE ALSO:

MORDANTING, PAGE 16

MIXING DYE BATHS, PAGE 84

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FlowersCollect your flowers on a dry day. Generally,the whole plant can be usedgather as if

making a bouquet so that the leaves and stem

can be included in the dye bath. Freshly picked

plants give a more intense color than driedjust as fresh herbs have a stronger taste than

dried ones.

v SEE ALSO:

PREPARING YOUR DYESTUFFS, PAGE 36

Collecting dyestuffs

yar

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Alcea sp. /HollyhockCollection:The different colored blossoms

can be used in one dye bath, but should be

picked in the summer when in full bloom and

used only when fresh.

Color obtained:A reasonable lightfast

range of orange yellows on animal fibers, but

will dye paler on vegetable fibers.

Anthemis tinctoria / CamomileCollection:Only the flower heads should be

collected in the summer and used when fresh.

Color obtained:A pleasing yellow when

used with alum, a bright yellow with the

addition of tin, a subdued greeny yellow

with iron, and a slightly browny yellow

with copper.

Cytisus scoparius / BroomCollection:For fresh use, collect during the

summer. Collect flowers only, as the stems

contain tannin which will brown your color.

For later use, dry whole sprigs, then strip off

the flowers and leaves and store in a jar out

of strong sunlight.

Color obtained:An excellent bright yellow

when used with alum and a lovely green

when overdyed with indigo.

Calluna vulgaris / HeatherCollection:For fresh use, collect the

flowering tips in late summer or early fall,

avoiding too much stem. For later use, cutdeeper, making small bundles to hang and dry.

Once dried, strip off the flowers and leaves

and store in a jar, out of strong sun light.

Color obtained:A good olive yellow when

used fresh with alum. More of a mustard

yellow when used dried.

Caltha palustris / MarigoldCollection:Collect as if making a bouquet,

including the stems. Can be dried by hanging

in bunches outside on a clear windless day, or

indoors in a warm room.

Color obtained:A bright brassy yellow,

which is lightfast on animal fibers. A pale

yellow when dyed on linen or cotton. Not

suitable for vegetable fibers.

Daucus carota /Queen Anns lace, Wild carrot

Collection:Collect in late spring or summer

as if for a bouquet, when in bloom. Should

only be used fresh.

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Color obtained:A range of fast yellows

depending on quantity usedthe more you

use, the brighter the color. On vegetable

fibers the shades are lighter.

Filipendula ulmaria /Meadowsweet, Queen of the meadow

Collection: As for a bouquet in late spring or

early summerbefore the frothy flowers

begin to turn brown. Can be dried for later

use but the colors obtained will be paler.

Color obtained:A greenish yellow with

alum, which when overdyed with indigo can

give a slightly aqua green.

Galium boreale /Ladies bedstraw

Collection:Collect the whole plant as if

making a bouquet, in the summer. Can be

dried, but the color is best when used fresh.

Color obtained: With alum-mordanted yarn,

a golden yellow; with the addition of a pinch

of tin, a bright gold; mordanted with copper,

a light olive; and with iron, a medium

olive green.

Solidago sp. / Golden rodCollection:The whole plant is collected in

the summer, as if for a bouquet. Since the

plant can grow to 6ft (2m) tall, it must be cut

into reasonably-sized pieces to use fresh. The

best dyes are obtained by using only the

blossoms and as little of the stem as

possible. For later use, dry in bouquet bundles

and then separate the blossoms.

Color obtained: A yellow gold with alum,

but a much brighter gold when tin is added tothe dye bath. Greenish shades with copper or

iron. Lightfastness is good.

Tanacetum vulgare /Tansy, Bachelor buttons

Collection:Collect in the late summer,

before the yellow buttons turn brown. Cut the

stems just below the flowering heads but

with enough stem so they can be hung to dry

for later use if desired.

Color obtained: A bright greeny yellow with

alum, but a darker moss green with iron.

Taraxacum officinale &erythrospermum / DandelionCollection: For the best color, only the

flower heads should be collected, and collect

in as late in the season as possible. The

whole plantleaves and blossomscan be

used but the color will be different.

Color obtained: With only the flower heads,

a clear yellow; with both leaves and flower

heads, a more beige color. Softly spun cotton

will take the dye, but other vegetable fiberswill not.

Ulex sp. / GorseCollection:This is a very prickly shrub, so

take care. Collect the flowers only during

summer. They can be dried for later use.

Color obtained:A good clear yellow when

used with alum.

Storing Flowers

If you wish to use your collected plants at a

later date, hang them in small bunches to dry in

the sun (protected from moisture and high

winds) or in a conservatory. Store in jars or

boxes, away from direct sunlight.

Estimating Amounts

If you used 100% of dyestuff in your original

recipe then once dried, the amount of dyestuff

should, as a general rule, be decreased by 50%

as your fresh plants contain water. The colors

may not be as bright as when you use the

flowers fresh.

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General method1

Place the safflower petals in a saucepan, cover with hotwater, and bring to the boil.

2 Simmer for 30 minutes. Cool in the saucepan.

3 Strain the dye water through panty hose. Place the panty

hose with the safflower petals inside in a dye vat. Add

enough warm water to allow free movement of the fabric

below the water.

4 Wet the fabric and add it to the dye vat. Slowly bring to

the boil over 20 to 30 minutes. Simmer for 60 to 90 minutes.5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces pick up the

dye color evenly, but make sure that the fabric remains

underneath the water surface at all times.

6 During the dyeing you can check the color of the fabric by

rinsing under running cold tap water and then squeezing

tightly dry.

7 When you have the color you require, rinse well in warm

water and then wash in warm water using a pH-neutral soap.

Rinse well again in warm water and air dry.

Recipes

Safflower(Carthamus tinctorius)

Safflower dye will turn silk yellow

and cotton red. The dye was

originally used to dye the cotton

tape used for legal documents, hence

the expression red tape.

Palest cream

COTTON: ALUMMORDANTIngredients Safflower petals:

100200% to dry

weight of fabric

Silk fabric swatch

Alum mordant: At 8%

MethodFollow steps 17 of the general method

Soft pink

SILK: NO MORDANT

Ingredients Safflower petals:

100200% to dry

weight of fabric

Silk fabric swatch

MethodFollow steps 17 of the general method.

VARIATION: A different weight of cotton will give a

very different tone when dyed in this dye bath. See

background swatch number .

VARIATION: For a paler color, like the one in

background swatch number , remove the fabric

after 1520 minutes of simmering.

fab

ric

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Muted yellow

COTTON: NO

MORDANTIngredients Dried safflower:

50100% to dry

weight of fabric

Cotton fabric swatch

Washing soda

Vinegar

Method1Follow steps 17 of the general method.

2Make a new dye bath with the used

safflower petals in old tights. Add enough cold

water to allow free movement of the fabric

below the water. Add enough washing soda(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat

to 11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.

3Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution

(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the

cotton fabric.

4Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for

2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.

5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfacespick up the dye color evenly, but make sure that

the fabric remains underneath the water

surface at all times.

6 During the dyeing you can check the color of

the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap

water and then squeezing tightly dry.

7 When you have the color you require, rinse

well in warm water and then wash in warm

water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again

in warm water and air dry.

Hint of pink

SILK: NO MORDANT

Ingredients Safflower petals:

100200% to dry

weight of fabric

Cotton fabric swatch

Washing soda

Vinegar

Method1Follow steps 17 of the general method.

2Make a new dye bath with the used

safflower petals in old panty hose. Add enough

cold water to allow free movement of the fabric

below the water. Add enough washing soda

(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat to11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.

3Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution

(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the

cotton fabric.

4Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for

2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.

5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces

pick up the dye color evenly, but make sure thatthe fabric remains underneath the water

surface at all times.

6 During the dyeing you can check the color of

the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap

water and then squeezing tightly dry.

7 When you have the color you require, rinse

well in warm water and then wash in warm

water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again

in warm water and air dry.

VARIATION:For a deeper pink, leave the fabric in the

dye bath for a day or two. See background swatch

number .

VARIATION: Background swatch number was left

in this dye bath overnightnotice how it gives a

more intense color.

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naturalT H E C O M P L E T E G U I D E T O

dyeingfabric,yarn,andfiberJam-packed with naturaland foolproofdyeing techniques, The Complete Guide toNatural Dyeing Fabric, Yarn, and Fiber

is the

perfect dyeing source for an abundance of fiberartists wanting to dye the natural way.

Inside youll find:

Techniques for collecting and preparingdyestuffs.

Step-by-step sequences to explain differentways of applying natural colors to yarns and

textiles from batik dyeing to dip-dyeing.An extensive directory of recipes for dyeing with

madder, safflower, indigo, cochineal, alkanet,and many more, to create stunning natural colors.

Readers will also learn how different naturaldyes will affect the colors obtained on variousmediums, and how to work with mordants.

The Complete Guide to Natural Dyeing Fabric,Yarn, and Fiberis a comprehensive guide withcomplete instructions and plenty of dyeinginspiration to get creativethe natural way. Usingnatural dyes to create fabric, yarn, or fiber issimple, eco-friendly, and surprisingly affordable!

EVA LAMBERT was born in Germany, brought up in the UnitedStates, and now is a UK citizen living in Scotland. She opened theShilasdair shop on the Isle of Skye in 1998 and sells exclusivelynatural-dyed yarns. Eva has given talks, hosted workshops, andhas been the subject of various exhibitions in the UK. She has donehistorical dyeing for the Victoria and Albert Millennium Exhibition.

TRACY KENDALL has worked for 25 years at Central SaintMartinsLondons most prestigious art schoolteaching students

from Foundation to Post Graduate level how to design and printonto textiles. She has her own internationally successful designstudio producing hand silk-screened wallpapers which are exhibitedand sold throughout the world. She has previously published atextile dye recipe handbook, The Fabric and Yarn Dyers Handbook(Collins and Brown, 2003).

Paperback, 812" x 10", 144 pages400 photographsISBN 978-1-59668-181-1$24.95

Available February 2010

Documents

Natural Dying F09