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Pallet Adirondack Chairby jkratman on December 12, 2009

Table of Contents

Pallet Adirondack Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   Pallet Adirondack Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 1:   The low-down on pallets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 2:   What to look for . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 3:   Where to look for them . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 4:   Be careful! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 5:   Tools you'll need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 6:   How to break them down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 7:   How to break them down, continued. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 8:   Detach the board from the middle stringer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 9:   The payoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 10:   Measure and mark the rear legs/seat stringers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 11:   Measure and mark the arm rests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 12:   Measure and mark bottom backrest rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 13:   Measure and mark top backrest rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 14:   Measure and mark armrest brackets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 15:   Cut out the top and bottom brackets, rear legs/seat stringers, armrest brackets, and the armrests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 16:   Measure and cut the front legs/front crosspiece/front seat slat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 17:   Cut rear crosspiece . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 18:   Measure and cut the rear back support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 19:   Cut (9) 1.75" seat slats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 20:   Measure and cut the chair back slats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 21:   Cut the fan tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 22:   Cut the fantail, continued. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 23:   Cut the fantail, continued. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 24:   The end result . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Step 25:   Let's assemble this thing already! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Step 26:   Connect front leg, rear back support, and seat stringer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Step 27:   Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the front leg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Step 28:   Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the rear back support. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Step 29:   Assemble the opposite seat stringer/frontleg/backrest support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Step 30:   Connect rear crosspiece. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Step 31:   Connect rear crosspiece, continued. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Step 32:   Connect front crosspiece . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

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Step 33:   Connect the bottom backrest rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Step 34:   Connect the top backrest rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Step 35:   Attach armrest brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Step 36:   Attach the 20" front seat slat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Step 37:   Attach center backrest slat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Step 38:   Attach the edge back slats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Step 39:   Attach the remaining back slats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Step 40:   Attach the (9) seat slats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Step 41:   Route the edges of the armrests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Step 42:   Attach the armrests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Step 43:   Attach the armrests, continued . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Step 44:   Attach the armrests, continued . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Step 45:   Attach the armrest, continued . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Step 46:   Time to finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

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Intro:  Pallet Adirondack Chair

Here's a fun way to reuse wood.  Make this Adirondack chair from shipping pallets or other reclaimed lumber. 

Step 1: The low-down on pallets

Pallets come in many shapes and styles.  They're made from lots of different types of wood.  They are readily available for free.

In fact, most companies pay people to take them away.

But there's a catch: pallets aren't easy to take apart.  They're also usually not made of very good lumber. If you use them for projects, you're going to spend A LOT oftime dismantling them and you're not going to get much from a single pallet.

If you're expecting perfection, than pallet lumber may not be right for you.  You can try salvaging used material from places like craigslist.  I collected an impressiveamount of wood for my other pallet instructable, the Pallet Playhouse.

If you're not interested in turning a pallet into something else or trucking around the nation looking for free stuff, substitute the pallet wood for some nice cedar or pressuretreated wood.  I made a PT set in a similar pattern that's held up for 11+ years of direct exposed to the elements.  They're still perfectly sound.  You won't get that kind ofperformance from pallet wood. 

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Step 2: What to look for

I get my pallets from my employer.  They throw them away, into a dumpster if I don't get to them first.  They pay to have the dumpster emptied, of course, so they're morethan happy to give me as many as I want.

Only about one in ten of the pallets I came across were the kind I wanted.   I tried to find ones that were brand-new, roughly 48" x 35", and were constructed of  (3)notched 2'x4's connected by 3/4" inch nominal boards (commonly called "one by" lumber.)  Usually, one side is rough sawn and the other is finished.  All of them wereheat treated (marked "HT") and held together by nearly indestructible spiral nails.

After I posted my first pallet project to Instructables, a lot of people commented about the dangers of pesticide-treated pallets.  For the record:  I only use ISPM 15certified pallets.  That means that the pallets are inspected, and certified to be either heat-treated (marked HT) or fumigated with Methyl Bromide (marked BM).  It alsostates that the pallet must be marked with either the HT or MB stamps.

I only use new, HT-marked pallets that were used solely to ship paper.  I would not recommend using any pallet that is not plainly marked, but then again, it's a freecountry.

Step 3: Where to look for them

Pallets are everywhere.  As I mentioned, I get mine from my workplace, but thousands of other businesses are constantly looking for someone to take them away.  I'vegotten them from supermarkets,  restaurants, and office buildings.  I've had a number of people recommend carpet companies, furniture stores or outlets, andatv/snowmobile dealers. 

I also see them up on craigslist all the time.

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Step 4: Be careful!

Working with power tools is dangerous, doubly so when working with pallets.  There are hidden nails, knots, warped boards, etc.  Use proper safety equipment, especiallyeye protection.  Don't use a power tool unless you're familiar with it. 

You could very easily get hurt, so proceed at your own risk.

Step 5: Tools you'll needTools/material you need, at minimum:

1) Hammer2) Crowbar/prybar3) Drill (cordless is best, but even a hand drill will work)4) Small bit for pilot holds (size depends on the screws you use)5) 3/8" Spade or forstner bit for counter sinks6) A saw of some sort-- I wouldn't try this without a circular saw, but hand saws would work..  A jig saw, band saw, and table saw would all help, too.7) Some sort of screw driver for your screws.  Power drills work best8) Wood glue9) Screws10) Wood putty11) 3-4 good pallets

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Step 6: How to break them down

I experimented with different methods, but I finally settled on this particular method of disassembling the pallets.

This is how I do it:

I start by cutting off the outside stringers (the 2x4's) with a skill saw. Watch out for nails!

Draw a straight line on each side as a guide to cut off the outside stringers.  A chalk line works well.

You'll want to set your depth at a fraction more than the 3/4 inch board.

After you cut along each outside stringer (not the middle!), flip the pallet over and do the same on the other side.

WARNING:  Pallets are usually made of the lumber that got rejected for other uses.  It's hard, often warped, has old broken nails embedded in it, and generally is just apain to work with.  Be careful. Wear goggles. Repetitive work breeds carelessness.  Trust me, I know.

Some other methods:

--Cut the nails with a sawzall.

--Use a pneumatic chisel

--Use a catspaw to dig the nails out (for certain pallets, this is easy.  For some, it's darn near impossible.)

Image Notes1. I lost a lot of time later because my cuts weren't square. Take extra time andmake sure they are close to square. It'll help later, trust me!

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Step 7: How to break them down, continued.

Use a hammer to knock the stinger off if it's stubborn.

Step 8: Detach the board from the middle stringer.

You'll be left with a bunch of 1X4's and 1X6's attached to the 2x4 in the center.

By rocking the 1x4's and the 1x6's back and forth, you can get the board off without totally destroying it.

There will still be quite a few ruined boards.  Good for the woodstove.

Pull or remove any nails left in the board and stack it to the side.  You may also want to grade your boards, based on knots, warping, bark, etc.  This will help later whenyou try to decide what to use for what job.

Step 9: The payoff

I usually get about (6) good 1x4's and (3) good 1x6's per pallet.  I also get a (3) 4' lengths of 2x4.

.

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Step 10: Measure and mark the rear legs/seat stringers

Using a 35" 1x6, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 5.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at thetop.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

You'll need two and you can use the first to trace out the second. 

REMEMBER!  If one side of the board is better than the other, to cut accordingly.  In other words, the stringers should be mirror (opposite) copies.  Pallet wood usuallyhas both a smooth and a rough side.

Step 11: Measure and mark the arm rests

Using a 32" 1x6, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 5.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at thetop.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

You'll need two and you can use the first to trace out the second. 

REMEMBER!  If one side of the board is better than the other, to cut accordingly.  In other words, the armrests should be mirror (opposite) copies.  Pallet wood usuallyhas both a smooth and a rough side.

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Step 12: Measure and mark bottom backrest rail

Using a 21.5" 1x4, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 3.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at thetop.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

Step 13: Measure and mark top backrest rail

Using a 22" 1x4, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 3.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at thetop.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

Step 14: Measure and mark armrest brackets.Cut out (2) armrest brackets.  Use the measurements below.

Step 15: Cut out the top and bottom brackets, rear legs/seat stringers, armrest brackets, and the armrests

Using your jigsaw (or a bandsaw if you have one), cut out each of the pieces.

You'll want to make sure you clamp them down securely. 

For the rear leg/seat stringers and the armrests, you'll need two each.  You can trace the first one after you cut it out to avoid having to draw the one inch grids again.

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Step 16: Measure and cut the front legs/front crosspiece/front seat slat

You'll need (4) 20" x 3.5" boards for (2) front legs, (1) front crosspiece, and (1) front seat slat.  You can cut these with a handsaw, a table saw, a circular saw-- whateveryou have.

You'll save yourself a lot of heartache if you remember to label these pieces.  Use a pencil to write "front leg" on two of them and "front cross" on the third, etc.  Make itsmall-- you'll be finishing the chair later and the pencil marks will probably show through.

Step 17: Cut rear crosspieceCut (1) 18.5" x 3.5"  rear crosspiece.

Step 18: Measure and cut the rear back support

You'll need (2) rear back supports.

Get a 1x4 and measure 26" on one side, 23" on the other.  Draw a line between the two and cut.

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Step 19: Cut (9) 1.75" seat slatsRip a 3.5" inch board down the middle to get (2) 1.75" seat slats.  Cut the length to 20".

Drill pilot holes and countersink on each end of the slat.  The pilot hole should be with 3/4" of the slat's end. In practice, you can simply "eye it" so that you get as close tothe edge as possible without allowing the countersink hole to ruin the board.

You'll need (9) slats.

Step 20: Measure and cut the chair back slatsYou'll need (7) chair back slats.  These are tapered cuts.  I made a simple (yet dangerous) taper jig out a sheet of masonite and a few smaller pieces of wood.

You can simply mark the board from the measurements below and use a circular saw to rip the taper.

I marked the length approximately; this is a good place to use some of your less than perfect boards.  Anywhere from 34"-36" should do fine.  As you'll see later, we'regoing to trim the tops to make the fan shape at the top of the chair.

Image Notes1. taper jig

Step 21: Cut the fan tailTo cut the fan tail, lay the back slats together like in the picture shown.  Use a board to line up the bottom edge.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 22: Cut the fantail, continued.Tie a pencil to a couple of feet of string (or use a ring at the end of the string like I did.)

Use your thumb to hold one end of the string in the middle of the center board at the bottom.  Use the pencil to etch an arc into the top edge of the boards.  Obviously, ifyour boards are different lengths, use the shorter ones at the edge and the bigger ones in the center.

After you draw the arc, number the boards with a pencil so you know what order they go into later.

Step 23: Cut the fantail, continued.Use your jigsaw to trim off the end of the boards.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 24: The end resultYou should end up with something like this. 

Step 25: Let's assemble this thing already!The moment you've been waiting for.  Let's put it together.

Step 26: Connect front leg, rear back support, and seat stringerOn a flat surface, arrange the front leg, rear back support, and seat stringer as shown.

Remember,  if your boards are smooth on one side and rough on the other, male sure the "good" side is facing out.  In this picture, you're looking at the rough side, ie, the"inside".

PLEASE NOTE: The front leg is UNDER the seat stringer.  The back support is OVER the seat stringer.

Use a board or the table edge to line up the pieces on the bottom.  Measure the distance between the front leg and the rear back support on top and the bottom to makesure it's reasonably straight.  Mark the leg and support locations with a pencil.

Part of the fun of using pallet wood is all the little adjustments you have to make to account for warped wood, etc.  Enjoy!  :-)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 27: Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the front leg.Drill two staggered pilot holes through the top piece and halfway through the lower board.  Use the 3/8" bit to countersink the holes.  Spread a generous amount of gluebetween the two pieces and attach with 1" wood screws.

Tip:  Sometimes pallet wood is especially soft.  Set the drill's torque as low as possible to avoid stripping out the pilot hole.

Step 28: Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the rear back support.Don't forget the glue.  Make sure that the back support is evenly spaced (about 21") from both the top of the front leg and the bottom.

I've seen similar designs that incorporate a carriage bolt, washer, and a nut here, instead of two screws.  Definitely a stronger way to go!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 29: Assemble the opposite seat stringer/frontleg/backrest supportPlace your finished seat stringer/frontleg/backrest support flat on your workspace.  Use it to line up the opposite assembly.  Remember, these should be a mirror image(opposite).

Mark board locations, drill, countersink, glue and screw.

Step 30: Connect rear crosspiece.Take your (1) 18.5" x 3.5" rear crosspiece and attach it to the seat stringer/rear back support as shown in the photo.

Measure one inch from the top of the seat stringer so you'll know where to attach it on the other side.  Don't forget to drill, countersink, and glue.  You may want to markand trace where you want your screw holes (see picture 2 & 3)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 31: Connect rear crosspiece, continued.Mark and measure your other front leg, seat stringer, and back support to attach the rear crosspiece.

Try to connect it in precisely the same spot as you did on the other side. 

Did I mention not to forget the glue?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 32: Connect front crosspieceConnecting the front crosspiece is easier thean the rear one.  Mark and measure the center of each front leg beneath the seat stringer.  Hold the crosspiece up so ittouches the seat stringer and attach to the front leg with glue and screws.

Step 33: Connect the bottom backrest railYou cut two backrest rails earlier.  One is square the other is rounded. The bottom backrest rail is squarish.

Take the bottom backrest rail and lay it into the two grooves cut into the seat stringers.  Drill pilot holes, countersink, then glue into position.  Use (4) 1-inch wood screws.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 34: Connect the top backrest railTake the rounded, top back rest rail and mark it 2.5" from either side. The distance from each of your sides should be 18.5".  Drill and countersink two holes on each sideat you marks.

Position the backrest rail over the rear back supports and attach with glue and screws. 

You may have to squeeze the rear back supports gently together to get them plumb.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 35: Attach armrest bracketsMeasure and mark the center line of the top of the front leg.  Drill pilot holes, countersink, and attack the armrest brackets.   Make sure the top edge of the bracket is levelwith the top edge of the front leg. Repeat on the other side.

Step 36: Attach the 20" front seat slatGlue and screw on the front seat slat.  Drill pilot holes and countersink.

Image Notes1. Front seat slat

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 37: Attach center backrest slatFind and mark the center of the top and bottom back rail.

Drill and countersink a hole on the bottom of the slat, then attach to the bottom back rail.  Line up the top slat/rail, drill, countersink, and attach.

I would not use glue on the backslats-- you may want to move/adjust them later.

Step 38: Attach the edge back slatsAttach the first and seventh back slats to the bottom back rail.  You'll want to dry-fit the two armrests before you attach the back slats so you know you're leaving enoughroom to attach them.

After you connect the bottom of each slat, attach the top.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 39: Attach the remaining back slatsAttach the remaining slats in the same manner, spacing as evenly as possible.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 40: Attach the (9) seat slats.You'll want to dry fit all the slats first so you have an idea of how to space them.

This is a time consuming part.  You'll want to be really careful drilling the pilot holes into the seat stringer.  Be patient!  You don't want to blow it now.

Step 41: Route the edges of the armrestsThe end is in sight!

If you've got the means, I definitely recommend routing the edges of the armrests.

If not, you can skip to the next step.

Step 42: Attach the armrestsMeasure and mark 20" from the bottom of the rear back support.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 43: Attach the armrests, continuedMove the armrest into position.  The 20" mark should line up with the bottom edge of the armrest.

Use a screw to tack the armrest in place, or prop it up, or clamp it, whatever.  Just keep it in place.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 44: Attach the armrests, continuedDrill three pilot holes through the armrest and into the front leg and armrest bracket.  See the second picture for the pattern.  Countersink the pilot holes and fasten withscrews.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

Step 45: Attach the armrest, continuedTo attach the rear part of the armrest, drill two pilot holes and countersink.   Attach with two 1.25" screws.

I've seen similar designs that incorporate a carriage bolt, washer, and nut here, instead of two screws.  Definitely a stronger way to go!

Step 46: Time to finishGrab your wood putty and get to work.  Fill all the holes you can.

I like to wipe off the residual putty with a wet cloth while it's fresh.  Sanding it off can be a real pain and also ruin the way your stain or paint looks.

Then get to work sanding it down.  At the minimum, you'll need to lightly sand off the shiny glaze to allow stain penetration or paint adhesion.

I like to use a dark, semi-transparent exterior stain on this sort of thing.  It hides a lot of imperfections in the wood.  Of course, if you buy a nice cedar, you could get muchbetter results.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

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Comments

29 comments Add Comment

 gonzaloleal says:  Aug 25, 2010. 4:34 AM  REPLYvery good

 no1sangel1978 says:  May 27, 2010. 3:02 PM  REPLYRoughly how many pallets do you use per chair?

Thanks for the great project!

 jkratman says:  May 28, 2010. 7:58 AM  REPLYIt really depends on what condition the pallets are in.  If every board were perfect, it would only be one or two.

Usually, though, 50% of the boards are unusable.

Figure 4-5 pallets.

Good luck!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

 Twotim221 says:  Apr 13, 2010. 7:32 PM  REPLYNice chair. I like to make things out of pallets too-recently I made hanging chair out of a pallet and made an instructable about it. Some people commented tome that pallet wood is treated and can be bad for your health to work with. Have you heard anything like this? Someone even said that you shouldn't  touchit.

 jkratman says:  Apr 14, 2010. 8:09 AM  REPLYI saw your chair, it's pretty awesome.

Take a look at step 2 of this instructable-- I talk a bit about pallet treatment, etc.

I'd say if you use common sense, you'll be fine.  I wouldn't want to handle MetylBromide treated pallets, but they should be clearly marked as such.

 roadzombie13 says:  Apr 1, 2010. 7:32 AM  REPLYWant longer planks?

Sometimes there is enough room  to use a reciprocating (sawzall) saw and cut the nails between the two pieces of wood.

 If not I use a breaker block, which is a scrap 2x4 with a 45 angle on it.

  Place the block on the backside of the plank, angle the point toward the nail Head; hit it  a few times to free up a gap.

The blade is thin so you can work it in with minimal damage. 

 You can cut all the nails this way even the center support. This will give longer planks to work with. 

If you don’t want the nail heads, just use a punch (old nail) tap the heads up and pull them out.

Note, I use junk old blades. 

 roadzombie13 says:  Apr 1, 2010. 7:17 AM  REPLYUse a speed square for your saw guide. The cut will be Square to the wood plank every time.

 digimancer says:  Mar 30, 2010. 1:56 PM  REPLY This is a pretty cool idea. I work in shipping and have access to tons of free pallets. I think i'm gonna grab a few every week and bring them home tostockpile up some scrap wood for this. I'm also gonna try to under engineer this a bit to see if I can reduce the need for jig saw cuts and use my chop sawand sander more. 

 jkratman says:  Mar 30, 2010. 3:21 PM  REPLYThanks!

You could certainly use the chop saw for the armrest supports.

The major pieces for the jigsaw are the armrests, the top and bottom seat rest brackets, and the seat stringer.  You might be able to do something withthe seat stringer, but I'm stumped on the rest of it.

The jigsaw isn't my favorite tool.  Wish I had a bandsaw.

Good luck.  I'd love to see how it works out.

 Speidumb says:  Mar 30, 2010. 10:09 AM  REPLY Great Instructable - Now I have to figure out how to haul pallets in my car.  

 LoneWolf says:  Mar 28, 2010. 12:38 PM  REPLYAdirondack as in Adirondack Mountains?

 gravguy says:  Mar 29, 2010. 5:41 PM  REPLYhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adirondack_chair

 LoneWolf says:  Mar 30, 2010. 7:43 AM  REPLYOh, thanks for the link.

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:21 AM  REPLYGood question.

I'm not sure....

http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Adirondack-Chair/

 LoneWolf says:  Mar 29, 2010. 12:33 PM  REPLYAw, now I'll never know :)

 valhallas_end says:  Mar 27, 2010. 9:16 PM  REPLYVery nice build, and well documented.  I've always liked Adirondack chairs - maybe I should check with my local hardware stores...friends that work theregrab pallets all the time for materials.

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:25 AM  REPLYThanks. 

Go for it! Let me know if any questions arise....

 ChrysN says:  Mar 27, 2010. 9:28 PM  REPLYNicely done!

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:24 AM  REPLYThank you!

 biker_trash_1340 says:  Mar 28, 2010. 4:51 AM  REPLYVery nice work, Need a few for my deck this summer. I'll have to start looking for some pallets this week.

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:24 AM  REPLYThanks.  Good luck!

 domestic_engineer says:  Mar 28, 2010. 5:43 AM  REPLYfantastic. can't wait to make this. Love your pallet playhouse too.

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:24 AM  REPLYHey, thanks a lot.  I was just out in my backyard checking out the playhouse.  We've gotten over a foot of rain in the last month and she's sinking.  I haveto jack it up and put in more blocks.

 thatoneguydavid says:  Mar 28, 2010. 10:33 AM  REPLYgreat instructable.  one idea to make things a bit easier.  try sanding the pieces after you cut them all out, but before assembly.  at that point you could useany size hand sander or belt sander with no problem.

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:23 AM  REPLYYou know, I think that every single time, but by that point I'm always too impatient.

You are right though.  Much easier.

 DIY Dave says:  Mar 28, 2010. 12:54 PM  REPLYgreat job

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:21 AM  REPLYThnaks!

 Jademadina says:  Mar 29, 2010. 4:53 AM  REPLYMy woodwork class had made this type of chair but it was made with white pine((treated) i never thought of pallets but not thankis to you I found an easierway.    This is brillant  thankyou.  10 out of 10.

 jkratman says:  Mar 29, 2010. 9:21 AM  REPLYThanks!

I'm not sure if it's easier, but sure is cheaper.