PatternMaker General sewing instructionsleenas.com/PDF/PDF_En/sewing.pdfneck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc. These eases are not given in

General sewing instructions .............................................................................................................................1

Sewing instructions for women's garments .................................................................................................23

Sewing instructions for Rain Cape................................................................................................................30

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's topcoat ........................................................................................34

Sewing instructions for maternity and nursing garments .........................................................................39

PatternMaker Sewing projects: Jacket with removable sleeves ...............................................................50

PatternMaker Sewing projects Two tunics....................................................................................................53

Sewing instructions for women's lingerie.....................................................................................................59

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's panties........................................................................................75

PatternMaker Sewing projects Bra without underwire ................................................................................83

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's Camisole .....................................................................................89

PatternMaker Sewing projects Sewing pajamas ..........................................................................................98

Sewing instructions for men's garments ...................................................................................................105

Sewing instructions for children's garments .............................................................................................112

PatternMaker Sewing projects Baby's tailcoat ..........................................................................................120

Pattern collection for newborn babies ........................................................................................................122

PatternMaker

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General sewing instructionsCopyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää

NEW!Latest update in these instructionsMay 24th, 2001Third sewing technique for a shirt sleeve cuff placket: A placket with overlap (shirt placket)Click here

Preshrinking the fabricWhen you buy your fabric, ask how much it will shrink when washed. In all cases, when the fabric iswashable and when you are not sure that the fabric won't shrink, it is safe to wash and iron it before cutting. Don't forget to preshrink lining as well.

HINT : If you do not want to preshrink the fabric you can check the amount the fabric shrinkshorizontally and vertically by wetting and ironing a small piece of it and resize your patternsaccordingly using the PatternMaker editing tools.

To get instructions of how to calculate the needed scaling factor, refer to the sewinginstructions for women's lingerie. Scaling patterns is a frequent task for garments sewn ofelastic fabrics.

Cutting the pattern piecesCut pattern pieces on folded fabric, right side of the fabric folded inwards. Make the necessary marks on thefabric with chalk or pencil.

If the fabric is plaid, striped or checkered, align the hem lines at the same point on the repeating pattern. Forsleeves, the repeating pattern should match where the bottom of the armscye and bottom of sleeve capmeet. Vertical centerline of sleeve should be placed at a vertical stripe or at center of a plaid square. Jacket,blouse and dress front center should be placed the same way.

Transfer notch marks from your pattern to the fabric by cutting snips (depth 0.5 mm /1/8") into seamallowances. When joining garment pieces, place corresponding notch marks in the two pieces together.

HINT: If the fabric is slippery spread out newspaper between the fabric and the table. It willkeep the fabric in place when you cut the garment pieces from it. Be sure not to let theprinting ink from the newspaper to stain your fabric. If this would be the case use anotherpaper.

HINT : Do not use pins to attach the patterns to the fabric. Use Scotch tape in stead. Positionthe tape pieces half on the fabric and half on the patterns where you want to and cut throughthe tapes. Normally you do not have to remove the tape pieces after cutting, the pieceswhich are on the patterns do not hurt them and the pieces on the fabric are outside thegarment pieces.

InterfacingCut and iron interfacing to under collars, facings, waist bands, slit facings, blouse and shirt button extensionsand sleeve cuffs. Using interfacing at jacket's hem seam allowance makes get a neat hem.

If you sew a patch pocket and don't line it, attach interfacing to it also.

Always trim interfacing to eliminate the seam allowances

Cutting the liningCut lining along with garment patterns without space for facings (but remember to add seam allowances) andhem seam allowances. Do not cut lining for collars. Lining fabric usually is not as elastic as garment fabric,

General sewing instructions

so cut it with about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) wider seam allowances than for the garment pieces.

BastingUse the longest possible machine stitches for basting. It is quick and the stitches can easily be removed.

HINT : In some cases you can use two−sided fusible interfacing for basting purposes. If youneed to keep two garment pieces on top of each other and prevent them from shifting whenyou sew − like pocket on the garment, put small pieces of two−sided fusible interfacing underthe pocket piece and iron the pocket lightly. After you have sewn the pocket in place, removethe interfacing between the pocket and the garment.

Finishing the garmentYou will get the best result if you always press seams and darts as you sew. First iron seams or darts flatwithout turning them to either direction. Then press them towards center, side seam towards front. Two−piece sleeve seams are both pressed towards shoulder mark. Use a steam iron. If you press seamsfrom right side of the fabric, use pressing cloth if necessary.

Edgestitching gives a well−finished look to garment, but only if it is straight and even. Long stitches of 1/4inch (4−5 mm) look best in edgestitching. Sew edgestitching only after you have ironed the seam.

To tame facings at garment edges use technique understitching. It prevents the seamlines from showing onthe outside of the garment and keep the seam allowances in the desired position. Refer to explanations ofused terminology at the end of these instructions.

About easePatterns cannot be drawn exactly according to your body measurements because you could not move in thefinished garment. Also fashion determines how much ease there is in certain garments. Jackets, dressesand blouses, for example, are rather tight−fitting and body hugging nowadays. A few years ago, jacketsused to be boxy and straight.

The amount of ease calculated for PatternMaker patterns is moderate, according to prevailing fashion.

Ease for basic patterns (Basic bodice and Pants) is predetermined and cannot be changed. They areclose−fitting garments with only the needed fitting ease added.

If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut body or pants pieces vertically in two and moveparts apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired result. There is an exercises of how todo this in Exercise 9 in the Tutorial, also available on this website. Don't add or decrease anything to side,armscye or sleeve seams. This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add ease to a jacket tochange it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease version jacket. Pants and skirt can be enlarged also byadding space to (only) side seams.

The basic bodice is to be used as a basis for your own designs and you have to add the needed ease forfitting and style yourself. Basic bodice is not to be used as is for any garment. It will fit like "a secondskin."

The ladies' shirt also has a predetermined ease which cannot be changed. It is a garment similar to a men'sdress shirt with dropped sleeve caps. If you want to sew a more fitted shirt, use blouse macro and leavedarts unsewn.

Other garment patterns have three ease choices: Minimum, Normal and Maximum

You should always make your first garment with normal ease. This is good for most cases. It containsenough wearing ease as well as the ease needed for garment design. Don't add anything to your bodymeasurements − the program calculates the needed eases. Garment patterns drawn with PatternMakermacros are ready to be sewn as they are.

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#exercise9

#exercise9

Here are some ideas of how to use other than normal ease

Minimum ease:

• garments of very thin fabrics• close−fitting garments and evening dresses• garments made of elastic fabrics • closely fitting sleeveless dresses• underwear

Maximum ease:

• garments of thick fabrics• jackets of thick wool fabrics for outdoors use • garments for leisure use • loose−fitting garments like (tunics, T−shirts, sweaters etc.) outer garments to be worn over other

garments

You might want your garments to have more ease or less ease than normally used. Once you are familiarwith the patterns the macros create, you can use maximum or minimum according to your wishes. Bytesting different eases, you will learn to use them for many purposes.

You should not change your actual body measurements in order to increase or decrease ease. It won'twork. You don't know all the measurements which have to be changed or cannot change them as theprogram calculates some measurements for you.

Ease chart

In the following table you'll find the ease applied to women's basic macros.

Ease is normally described by giving it at bust circumference. There is also ease at other places such as atneck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc. These eases are not givenin the table below but the differences correspond to bust ease.

• Basic bodice: Bust +3.25in/8 cm• Skirt: Normal hip +1.5in/+4cm, Minimum hip +0.75in/+2 cm, Maximum hip +2.5in/+6• Pants: Waist +0 cm , Abdomen and hip +1.5in/4 cm • Pullover: Minimum, bust −0.75in/2 cm, Normal, bust +0in/0 cm, Maximum, bust +3.25in/8 cm • Blouse: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm • Shirt: Bust +6.25in/16 cm• Jacket: Minimum, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Normal, bust +5.5in/14 cm, Maximum, bust +6.25in/16 cm • Dress: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +7.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm

Shoulder padsSpace for shoulder pads is included in most of the patterns. Pullover is designed without shoulder pads.

HINT : If you want to add shoulder pads to garments which do not have space for them, raiseshoulder tip at front and back 0.5−1 cm / 1/4−1/2" and lengthen shoulder with sameamount. Also raise the top of the sleeve cap with same amount you raised the shoulder tip.

Bound edge

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Here is an easy way to sew a professional looking bound edges to neck openings,sleeve cuffs and hems of casual garments as well as to lingerie and outdoor garments.In the example illustrated here the edging is sewn to the neck opening of a sweater

Cut a strip of fabric 4 times as wide as the desired finished width of the edging and approximately as long asthe edge to which it is to be connected. In the picture the finished width of the edging is 1 cm. So the width ofthe fabric strip in this case is 4 cm.

Fold the fabric strip lengthwise in two, wrong side inside, and iron. Sew it to thewrong side of the neck opening raw edges matching. Stretch the edging a bit whensewing.

Start sewing 5 cm from the CB of the neck opening and leave another 1 cm of edging free (for the CB seamof the edging). Stop sewing 5 cm from the CB of the neckline and leave 1 cm for seam allowance. Sew theCB seam of the edging. Fold the edging in two at the CB of the neck as elsewhere and sew the rest of theconnection seam.

Trim seam allowance to half. Open the seam well by iron theedging and the seam allowances away from each other. Turnthe edging around the edge to the right side of the garmentalong the stitch line. Be sure not to leave the stitch line visibleat the right side of the garment. Edgestitch along the foldededge. Sew slowly. Only even edgings with straight stitch linesare neat.

If you find it difficult to sew such a narrow edging − especially if your fabric is thick − you can try cutting thefabric strip a bit wider, for instance 6 times of the desired finished width of the edging (in the examplegarment it would be 6 cm. It is easier to turn a wider edging around the edge and the connection seam canbe left well inside of the garment. In the sample garment the fabric strip for the edging at the neck opening is4 cm and at the sleeve cuffs 6 cm.

Attaching zipper to pants or skirtSew seam to the point where zipper begins and continue zipper's full length with basting (picture 1). Pressthe seam open. Remove basting stitches. Mark front (or back) centerline with basting.

Fold one seam allowance of zipper placket at about 1/4 inch (0.5 cm) distance from front (or back) centerline)(picture 2a). Sew one zipper edge under the extended seam allowance (picture 2b).

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Close zipper placket temporarily with pins on right side of garment (picture 3).

On wrong side pin other zipper edge flat on seam allowance (picture 4). Make certain that the zipper isstraight and lies flat at an even distance from edges of seam allowance.

Remove pins from right side. Sew from wrong side through all thicknesses, across bottom (picture 4) and upthe pinned edge of zipper near zipper teeth.

If you want to, you can sew a second row of stitches one presser foot's distance from the first one picture 5). If you are making jeans or other pants that need to be very strong, strengthen bottom of zipper placket withtight zigzag (barrack) on right side.

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If you want to create a LESS NOTICEABLE ZIPPER PLACKET, sew zipper directly onto garment seam,placing zipper upside down on a basted seam on wrong side of garment. The distance between the seamand the zipper stitching is the width of the presser foot. Basting is removed after sewing. This kind of azipper is good for a dress back seam and is also widely used in skirts.

Attaching waistband to skirt or pants

Overlock edges of waistband. Fold waistband lengthwise, right side in and press. Unfold waistband andsew its one horizontal edge to garment, right sides together (Picture 1). Space for button and buttonholeextends beyond center front mark at each end of the band. Garment's waist should always be slightly largerthan waistband. Easestitch garment waist to fit waistband.

Fold waistband lengthwise, right side in, and sew across one end (buttonhole end) and the distance forbuttonhole (distance between arrows in Picture 2). Trim corners and turn waistband right side out.

Press seam allowance upwards (it will be inside waistband when finished). Turn the buttonhole end of thewaist band right side out. Fold seam allowance of the other end of the waistband in about 5 cm / 2" from end(Picture 3). Leave rest of waistband seam allowance flat. Stitch on ditch on the right side of garment. Sewbuttonhole starting from CB mark of the pattern. Sew on button.

Sewing back slit to skirt or dress

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Overlock back center seam. Baste seam for zipper (Picture 1a), sew back center seam between zipper andslit, and baste folding line for slit (Picture 1b). Press seam open. Cut seam allowance diagonally at upper endof slit (Picture 2).

Fold vertical seam allowance of one half of slit inside, and edgestitch (Picture 3). Press flat (Picture 4). Foldother half of slit (along right side of back centerline) inwards and sew across bottom at hemline (Picture 5).

Turn slit out to its correct position. Strengthen top of slit with horizontal or diagonal stitch line thorough allthicknesses on right side (Picture 6).

Cut an opening for the back slit at the back hem of the lining as in picture 7.

Sewing a button placket

Iron interfacing to vertical half of the wrong side of the button placket.

Turn the front edge seam allowance of the placket of the right front piece in and baste ( Picture 1a ).Overlock the front and the bottom edges of the placket of the left front piece.

Put garment front pieces on top of each other right sides together and sew the front CF seam from hem towhere the button placket begins Picture 1b ).

Fold the button placket of the right front piece along the fold line marked on the patterns right side in and sew

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the across the bottom edge from the fold to the center front . Cut seam allowance diagonally. ( Picture 2 ) Pin the top edge of the button placket. Fold the placket of the left front piece along the fold line right sideinside. Pin the top of the placket.

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the neck facing and sew the shoulderseams of the facing.

Place the neck facing to the neck opening on top of the button placket. Sew the neck facing to the neckopening with distance of seam allowance from the edge. Cut clips to the round parts of the seam allowances.Understitch through the facing and the seam allowance.

Turn button placket right side out and sew along the basted placket seam allowance. Place the button placketof the right front piece on top of the button placket of the left front piece (the left front piece is inside thegarment). Sew across the bottom of the button placket on the right side of the garment. ( Picture 3 )

Fasten buttons and sew button holes.

Sewing a shirt collar with standFold the seam allowances of the button extensions to wrong side and iron. Fold button plackets right sideagainst right side along the fold line marked in the patterns and sew along bottom ends.

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Turn button extensions right side out. Iron and sew along folded seam allowances (Picture 1).

Iron interfacing to both collar and collar stand pieces (Picture 2a).

Sew round the collar, cut corners of seam allowances and turn the collar right side out. Iron and edgestitchalong the outer edge of the collar (Picture 2b).

Fold seam allowance of one collar stand to the wrong side, baste and iron. Sandwich collar between thecollar stand pieces raw edges matching and sew through all thicknesses (Picture 3). Cut the corners of theseam allowance and turn the collar to its right position (Picture 4). Iron.

Place the right side of the collar stand (with the unfolded seam allowance) against the wrong side of theblouse neck and attach the collar to the blouse neck opening. Turn seam allowances inside the collar. Pin theother edge of the collar stand (with the folded seam allowance) to its final position and sew near edge of thefolded seam allowance.

Sew buttons and buttonholes on the CF−line of the button extension and the collar stand.

Another technique

Another way to attach the collar is described in the drawing to the left (Picture 5).

Fold the button extension of the blouse right side against right side. Unlike in the instructions above, do notfold the seam allowance of the collar stand. Sandwich collar between the folded button extension and theblouse . Sew the collar stand to the neck opening of the blouse. Overlock the seam allowance with seamsteror with zigzag.

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Stitch button extensions across bottom edges. Turn button extensions and collar out and sew along foldedseam allowance edge.

This technique of sewing the collar to the neck opening is not as neat as when sewing the seam allowanceinside the seam. Usually the inside of the garment neck is, however, not in sight, so it does not matter.

Sew buttons and buttonholes on the CF−line of the button extension and the collar stand.

A third technique worth while trying

Fold and sew button extension according to above instructions.

Prepare the collar and sandwich it inside the collar stand pieces as above. Leave raw edges of collar standflat. Place right side of the collar stand to the wrong side of the neckline raw edges even. Sew along theneckline (Picture 6a).

Fold collar stand pieces right side against right side encasing collar and neckline edge inside. Sew along rawedges for distance of about 2.5−5 cm / 1−2" from the end of the collar stand (Picture 6b).

Trim seam allowance to reduce bulk at the end of the collar stand. Then turn the collar and the collar standright side out. Fold the rest of the seam allowance of the collar stand in and topstitch along the outer edge ofthe collar stand.

Sewing and attaching a blouse collar

For the collar, cut 2 pieces of fabric and 1 piece of interfacing. Iron interfacing to under collar. The under collar piece is on the inside, hidden by the upper piece, when the garment is completed.

Fold button placket inwards along fold line and sew along bottom and top ends from fold line to front center. Cut seam allowances diagonally at point where seam ends, so that button placket can be turned right sideout.

Turn bottom seam allowance of under collar inside, baste and iron (Picture, a). Place collar pieces with rightsides together and sew along edges (Picture, b).Trim seam allowances and cut corners. Turn right sideout. Sew raw edge of upper collar to shell's neck from front center to front center, collar's right side againstblouse's wring side. Press seam allowance upwards and pin basted edge of under collar on top of previousseam. Sew. Edgestitch if wanted.

Sewing and attaching a hood

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The hood piece in the pattern makes one half of the hood. Cut 4 pieces, 2 of garment fabric and 2 of liningfabric. The lining pieces can also be of same or similar fabric, if desired.

The openings for the drawstring are sewn like small buttonholes at right side of hood 3/4 inch (2 cm) fromfront edge and 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) from bottom edge (Picture 1a ). To strengthen button holes, ironinterfacing to wrong side of fabric before sewing button holes.

Sew both outer pieces together, right sides together (Picture 1b). Do the same with the lining pieces. Snipthe seam allowance along the curved section at back of hood at intervals of about 3/4 inch or 2 cm (Picture2).

Turn neck seam allowance of hood lining inwards and baste. Place lining and hood right sides together andsew along front edges (Picture 3 ). Turn hood right side out.

Sew hood to neck of shell,right sides together, from center front to center front. Press seam upwards andpin the basted edge of hood lining onto seam. Sew near edge.

Sew a 3/4 inch (2 cm) wide tube for strings at front edge (Picture 4).

Sewing and attaching cuffs to sleeves

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Iron interfacing on sleeve cuffs. Fold seam allowance to the wrong side at one long edge of the cuff. Basteand iron. Fold the cuff pieces horizontally into two. Sew along short edges. Cut corners of the seamallowances and turn the cuffs right sides out. Iron.

Fold in seam allowance of one long edge of sleeve cuff and baste (Picture 1).

Fold cuffs horizontally in two, right sides inside, and sewalong ends (Picture 2 ). Note that seam allowance of oneedge has been folded in, but the other is unfolded, so theedges don't meet. Cut seam allowance diagonally atcorners and turn cuffs right side out.

Cut slits at ends of sleeves and overlock edges. Turn seam allowances inside and edgestitch on right side(Picture 3). Fold slit with right side inside and sew a small triangle at the bottom of the slit (Picture 4).

Fold ease of sleeve ends into soft pleats near split. Sew raw edges of cuffs to sleeve ends with right sideof cuff against wrong side of sleeve. Turn seam allowance inside cuffs and press. Pin basted edge of cuffonto previous seam and edgestitch from right side.

Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons.

Another technique: sewing a bound slitBound slit is best suited to sleeve hems but it can also be used to sew a slit to front or back neck opening, orto side slits of tunic hem.

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Mark the height of the slit to the wrong side of the garment with pencil (Picture 1 a and b). Machine bastealong the lines to transfer the markings to the right side of the garment.

Cut two bias strips of fabric three times as wide as you want the binding strips of the slit to be. Place them onboth sides of the machine basted line right side under to the right side of the garment 0.3 cm / 1/8" from theline (Picture 2).

Sew 0.7 cm / 1/4" from the basted vertical line (Picture 2, c−d and e−f).

Cut an opening along the basted line (Picture 3g) and diagonally at the corners (Picture 3h and i). Be carefulnot to cut the binding strips.

Press the binding strips and the seam allowances toward the slit. Turn 1/3 of the long edges of the bindingstrips in and wrap the bindings around the raw edges of the slit (Picture 4).

Fold back the wrong side of the garment to expose the triangle at the end of the slit opening and sew acrossthe end to the slit catching both binding strips (Picture 5j−k).

Do final ironing and attach cuffs or collar or whatever you need to attach to this place of your garment.

Third sewing technique: cuff placket with overlap (shirt placket)

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Shirt placket is finished with two separate pieces of fabric to create a wider lap.

First construct the underlap. Cut a 8 x 10 cm piece of fabric (picture 1). Fold the piece into two as in thepicture, right side out. Fold one vertical seam allowance (1 cm) in and press (picture 2).

Then make the overlap. Cut 8 x 10 cm piece fabric (picture 3). Fold the piece into two wrong side out. Sewalong top as in picture 4. Trim seam allowance and turn overlap right side out. Fold one vertical seamallowance (1 cm) in and press.

Mark placket on the right side of the sleeve cuff(picture 6).

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Pin underlap on the left side of marked placket and overlap on the right side of the placket as in picture 7.Edges meet at the center of the placket. Sew along the marked vertical sides of the placket, stop at corners.

Cut along the center of the placket and vertically at the top corners as in picture 8. Fold and press seamallowances inside underlap and overlap and the top triangular piece to the wrong side of the sleeve upwards.

Fold laps to right position, underlap to the wrongside of the sleeve cuff and overlap to the rightside of the sleeve cuff and edgestitch laps fromthe right side (picture 9). Topstitch the top part ofthe overlap through all thicknesses

Sewing pockets

There are darts at the upper part of the pocket bag and lining of pants. There are similar darts at the pants'waist.

HINT : If wanted, the darts can be moved from the top to the bottom of the pocket pieces. Cut the pocketpatterns vertically from the dart apex to and across the bottom edge of the pocket pieces ( picture, a) andpivot the pieces to close the darts at the top edge of the pockets (picture, b) and to open them at the bottomedge of the pockets.

Patch pockets

Cut the pocket pieces according to Picture 1: Pocket height is marked in the picture. Add 5 cm/2" of height tothe pocket pattern for self−facing and iron interfacing to it as in the picture. This part of the pocket top will beturned inside when the pocket is complete. If the fabric is very thin or elastic, iron interfacing to wrong side ofwhole pocket. Always trim interfacing to eliminate the seam allowance to avoid bulk.

Cut pocket lining 10cm/4" lower than the pocket piece. Cut the lining pieces also otherwise slightly smaller(0.3cm / 1/8") than the pocket piece so that the seams will not show when the pockets are complete. Whensewing the lining to the pocket seams, slightly stretch the lining.

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Sew lining to the top of the pocket piece as in picture 2 leaving anopening for turning the pocket (picture 2 a−b). Fold pocket and liningright sides together raw edges matching and sew along sides andbottom. Notch seam allowances at intervals of about 1cm / 1/2" at therounded curves of the pocket and trim corners diagonally. Turn thepocket right side out and slip stitch the opening closed.

Topstitch pocket mouth at a distance of 4cm / 1 1/2" from the top edge (Picture 3a).

Attach the pockets to the garment.

HINT : Machine baste the pockets in place diagonally from corner to corner (Picture 3b). When sewing thepocket to the garment push the pocket away from the seam and stitch along the edges of the lining. That waythe seam does not show on the right side when the pocket has been sewn to the garment.

Pocket with flap

NOTE: The method used here to attach flap, welt and buttonhole pockets is called windowpaneopening method. It is one of the easiest ways to sew this kind of pockets successfully.

Cut 4 pieces of pocket flaps. Iron interfacing to two of them. Sew flaps two and twotogether right sides inside along sides and bottom edges. Notch seam allowances atintervals of about 1 cm / 1/2 " at the bottom curves. Turn flaps right sides out, openseams well, iron and edgestitch along sides and bottom.

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Mark the the pocket opening to the wrong side of the garment with pen. Machine baste along the markedlines to transfer the marking to the right side of the garment (Picture 2 a). Iron a 5cm/2" wide strip ofinterfacing to the wrong side of the garment at the pocket opening line.

Place pocket flap upside down raw edges along the pocket opening line (Picture 2 b).

Cut 2 copies of pocket bag (garment fabric) and 2 copies of pocket linings (liningfabric) 10cm/4" wider than the pocket opening and two times as high as you wantto pocket to be. Pin pocket bag upwards right side against right side on the pocketmouth line and the lining downwards right side against on top of the pocket flap onthe pocket mouth as in picture 3 and sew a rectangle around the pocket mouthline (Picture 3 a).

Cut through center of rectangle and diagonally at the ends (Picture 3 b). Cut only the garment fabric, do notcut the flap.

Turn the pocket bag, the lining and the flap through the opening to the wrong side of the garment and fingerpress the seams well. On wrong side of the garment Understitch the seams of the opening, first the longsides and then the short sides.

Press the rectangle area from the wrong side. Turn the pocket bag downwards edges matching the lining.Sew and overlock sides and bottom of the pocket bag.

Turn the flap to its correct position and topstitch at width of presser foot from the top of the flap (Picture 4).

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Pocket with welt

Sew pocket with welt according to instructions for pocket with flap. Place the welt, however, upside downfrom the pocket opening line downwards (Picture 1a) and turn it upwards when ready (Picture 2 ).

Buttonhole pockets (Bound pockets)

Cut two pieces of pocket bags from garment fabric and two pieces of pocket linings from lining fabric. Markthe pocket opening to the wrong side of the garment with pen.

Pin pocket lining on the garment (Picture 1a). Sew arectangle around the opening line on the wrong side. Cutthrough center of rectangle and diagonally at the ends(Picture 1b ).

Turn the lining through the opening to the wrong side of the garment and finger press the seams well. Onwrong side of the garment understitch the seams of the opening, first the long sides and then the short sides(Picture 2).

Cut 4 pieces of pocket binding strips. Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of them. Fold them lengthwise in two(Picture 3a) and zigzag two and two together like in the picture (Picture 3b).

Place the binding strips under the pocketopening rectangle and edge stitch along theedges of the rectangle. (Picture 3c). Press therectangle and the binding strips from wrongside.

HINT : Try fuse−basting to keep the pocket binding strips in place when you sew around the rectangle.Fuse−basting is explained above .

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#fusebasting

#fusebasting

Place pocket bag under the pocket lining raw edges matching. Sew and overlock bottom edges of the pocket(Picture 4a).Pin sides (Picture 4a) and center front (Picture 4c) of the pocket. These will be attached to sideand zipper seams later. Unravel the zigzag stitches from the pocket binding strings and do the final pressing.

HINT : There is a handy device for sewing buttonhole (double welt) pockets. Clotilde's sewing notions catalogoffers a Double Welt Pocket Maker. It is fairly simple to use and with it it's easy to sew narrow and even weltsfor double welt pocket. I bought mine in a Fabric shop in Seattle − the name of which I have forgotten − butas far as I remember it correctly the price for this device was about US$ 30.

The device is sold with clear instructions.

Hip pockets

Cut the pocket corner off the pants front piece (Picture 1) Cut two pieces of pocket bags and two pieces ofpocket linings. Place pocket lining on the right side of the front piece pocket mouths matching. Sew alongpocket mouth(Picture 2), turn pocket lining to the wrong side of the garment (Picture 3) and iron.

Edgestitch pocket mouth (Picture 4). Place pocket bag under pocket lining raw edges matching. Sew andoverlock the bottom edges of the pockets (Picture 5a). Pin side (Picture 4b) and CF−edges (Picture 5c) of thepocket to the garment. These edges will be attached to garment seams when sewn.

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Side pockets

Cut 2 copies of pocket bags from garment fabric and 2 copies of pocket lining from lining fabric pieces forpockets.

Place pocket lining piece on the garment, right sides together. Sew along pocket mouth (Picture 1a−b). Cut seam allowance at the ends of pocket mouth. Turn pocket lining to the wrong side of the garment andtopstitch pocket mouth Picture 2).

Place pocket bag piece under the pocket lining raw edges matching (Picture 3). Sew and overlock along thecurved outer edges. Pocket back piece is attached to side seam when sides are sewn. Use care not tocatch the finished edge of pocket mouth in the side seam.

Press the pocket toward the front of the garment and side seams toward the back. If you want to create avery durable pocket mouth for this kind o a pocket, bartack both ends of the pocket opening.

Terminology used

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Edgestitching

Edgestitching is used to finish the garment edges, such as edges of collars, jacket lapels, shirt buttonplackets etc. Change a straight stitch for edgestitching foot to your sewing machine and sew near the foldededge or seamline. Use 3−4 mm stitch length. Long stitch length looks better than short. If you do not have anedgestitch foot, use a zigzag foot and reset the needle so it is on the extreme right−hand side.

Topstitching

Topstitching is used to strengthening or embellishing garments details such as pocket mouths, facings,princess seams etc..

HINT: If you want the topstitching to have a padded or quilted look, try sandwiching a layer offlannel or fleece between the garment and the facing.

HINT : In some couture sewing books it is recommended that the top stitching is completedearly in the construction process i.e. before facings and linings are applied. In that way thereis less bulk and fewer layers of fabric to control. This is worth trying.

HINT: If you want to emphasize the lines of topstitching or edgestitching, sew with twothreads in the needle or with twin−needle.

Understitching

Understitching is a single line of stitching to seam allowance close to the seam line preventing facings andlinings from rolling to the outside of a garment.

After having sewn the facing or the lining to your garment, grade and clip the seam allowances with thegarment's allowance wider than the facing's, then press the allowances to lie flat toward the lining or thefacing. On the facing straight−stitch close to the seamline through all thicknesses. Use your fingertips to feelalong the seamline in front of the presser foot to ensure that the seam allowances lie flat and to one side.

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Understitching is good idea to be applied when sewing a window pane pocket openings. Understitching thepocket facing makes the opening crisp and accurate.

Easestitching

Easestitching is used in seams where the edges to be joined are not equally long. This kind of a situation ise.g. easing the sleeve cap to fit to the armscye. Sew easestitching with distance of seam allowance from theedge i.e. along the seam line. Sew easestitching using the 4−5 mm stitch length i.e. long but not the longestpossible. You notice that the fabric is automatically eased as you sew. You can intensify the easing bytightening the strain of the upper thread of the sewing machine.

Usually the waist band is somewhat shorter than the waist of the garment. Sew easestitching to the garmentwaist before attaching the waist band to it. Sew the easestitching with distance of seam allowance from theedge i.e. along the seam line. If the garment has a lining, sew the easestitching through the garment and thelining.

Easestitching can also be used to join seams which curve to different directions e.g. the princess seams ofthe bodice. Sew easestitching to one of the seams with distance of seam allowance from the edge. Place thepieces together and sew along the easestitch.

Easestitching can also make it easier to attach a collar to the neck opening of the garment. Sew easestitchingwith distance of seam allowance from the edge to the neck opening of the garment. Place the collar and thegarment together and sew along the easestitch.

Scandinavian expertice

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Sewing instructions for women's garmentsCopyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää

SEWING SKIRTCut waist band on fold.

Sew front and back darts (Picture 1a).Iron them towards center front and back. Sewcenter back seam between the zipper and the back slit. Baste seams of zipper andback placket. Sew back slit according to general sewing instructions (Picture 2b)attach zipper according to general sewing instructions (Picture 2c). Sew andoverlock side seams (Picture 2d).

Fold seam allowances of the slit of the lining inwards and edgestitch (Picture 3e).

Overlock back seam. Baste back seam from top to where the end of the zipper will be,and sew from there to slit hole (Picture3f). Press back seam open and removezipper−basting stitches. Edgestitch zipper slit.

Fold waist darts of the lining to form soft pleats and pin (Picture 3g). Sew andoverlock side seams of the lining. Fold seam allowance for hem inside twice andsew. Make sure that the lining will be about an inch (a couple of centimeters) shorterthan the skirt when both are done.

Place lining inside skirt and pin at waist, wrong side against wrong side and side seamsmatching. Easestitch waist with normal seam allowance, using your machine's longeststitches to attach lining to skirt. Tighten or loosen waist easestitching so thatwaistband fits to skirt waist. The result should have no gathers or wrinkles. Attach

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waist band according to general sewing instructions . Fold skirt hem allowance andblindstitch with machine or by hand. Sew buttonhole and attach button.

SEWING PANTS Cut waist band on fold.

Sew front and back darts (Picture 1a). If you are sewing a pleated version, fold frontpleats soft and pin or baste them at top. Sew and overlock back center seam withelastic stitching, if possible (Picture 1b). Overlock front center seam and edges ofzipper placket (Picture 1a) Sew front center seam from inside seam to where zipperplacket begins (Picture 1d). attach zipper according to general sewing instructions .

Cut front piece pocket corner off, don't forget to add seam allowance. Put a reinforcingstrip of non−elastic fabric (not included in pattern) into the seam to prevent pocketmouth from stretching during use. Place under pocket (lining) along slacks frontpiece's pocket line, right sides together, and sew. Turn under pocket (lining) insideand edgestitch pocket mouth (Picture 1e). Sew another row of stitches at presserfoot's width from the first row of stitches.

Place pocket corner pieces under pocket lining with round edges matching (Picture 2f). Sew and overlock them together, leaving pocket mouth open (Picture 2g ).

Place front and back sections of slacks on top of each other, right sides together. Sewand overlock side seams (Picture 3h ). Sew and overlock leg seams from cuff to cuff(Picture 3i).

attach waistband according to general sewing instructions . Fold cuff seamallowances inwards and blindstitch with machine or by hand.

If you want to put a lining in the slacks, cut lining pieces using the slacks patterns andsew them without pockets. attach lining to slacks at waistband seam when attachingwaistband. Handsew lining at edges of zipper placket. You can also line only thefront pieces of slacks. Or sew facing to front pieces only at knee for a distance ofabout 10 cm up and down from knee. attach lining to seams when sewing the seams.

SEWING PULLOVER

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Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams (Picture 1). Iron interfacing to front andback neck facings. Sew and overlock shoulder seams of neck facing (Picture 2). Place neck facing on pullover, neck right sides together, and sew with normal seamallowance (Picture 3). Notch seam allowances at intervals of about 3/4 inch. Turnfacing inside pullover and press. Edgestitch from right side, or sew only throughgarment and facing seam allowances near fold line. attach facing to shoulder seamsby hand with small stitches.

Easestitch sleeve caps along seam line. Sew and overlock sleeve seams (Picture 4).

Turn sleeve right side out and pullover wrong side out. Place sleeve inside pullover(right sides together) so that sleeve shoulder mark matches with pullover shoulderseam and sleeve seam matches with pullover side seam (Picture 5). Pull ends ofease stitching along sleeve cap to adjust ease. Sew along ease stitching and overlocksleeve to pullover. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap (some fabricstolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit. There should be nowrinkles at cap seams when done.

Fold hem and sleeve cuff allowances inside and sew with twin needle on right side ofpullover (Picture 6). Cut excess fabric from inside near stitch line.

SEWING DRESS Sew and overlock vertical seams at front and back pieces. Overlock back centerseam (use at least 3/4 inch or 2 cm seam allowance to leave room to attach zipper).Sew back seam from neck to zipper, baste for length of zipper, sew seam to back slitand baste along length of slit.

Sew slit according to general sewing instructions . attach invisible zipper according togeneral sewing instructions .

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Continue according to instructions for sewing blouse. Blindstitch hem and sleeveends, however, with machine or by hand.

SEWING BLOUSE

Fold front edge's seam allowances (1 cm) inwards and baste (Picture 1). Fold again,but now with right side inside along button extension fold line and stitch buttonextension across top and bottom edges (Picture 2).

If you are going to sew convertible collar to blouse, stitch top end from fold only tocenter front, and cut seam allowance diagonally there. Turn button extension to thewrong side of the blouse and sew along folded edge of seam allowance on wrong side.

Sew and overlock front dividing seams (Picture 3). Sew back shoulder and waist darts(Picture 4). Sew and overlock shoulder seams.

attach collar according to general sewing instructions . Sew convertible collarbeginning from front center, and shirt collar with band beginning from edge of buttonextension (fold).

Sew and overlock side seams.

Cut sleeve slits at sleeve ends. Overlock slit edges, turn inwards and edgestitch.Continue to attach the sleeve cuffs according to general sewing instructions

Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance and continue sewing andattaching the sleeves according to sewing instructions of pullover above. Sew andattach sleeve cuffs according to general sewing instructions .

Fold hem allowance twice and sew. Sew buttonholes and buttons on center front andsleeve cuffs.

SEWING SHIRT(see picture for blouse) Sew according to sewing instructions for blouse. Shirt,however, does not have front dividing seams or back darts.

SEWING JACKET Iron fusible interfacing to under collar, front and back facings, sleeve cap and buttonplackets, upper part of the front and back pieces, hem seam allowance and pocketflaps (Picture 1a).

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Cut upper collar 0.5 cm larger atouter edge than under collar. Thiswill help collar to turn in to itsproper position.

Use the pattern pieces as a guide in cutting lining pieces. Note that as in the illustration(Picture 4a), you need to add a pleat extension to the back lining. This extension isnot given in the pattern.

Sew and overlock front princess seams (Picture 1b). Sew pockets to front piecesaccording your styling preferences (see general instructions ). Sew and overlock allother vertical seams of the shell ( Picture 1c ). Edgestitch if desired.

Sew upper and under collar together at edges, right sides together,(Picture 2a). Trim seams and cut seam allowance at corners. Turncollar right side out and press. Edgestitch if desired. Sew collar tojacket's neck collar with center back matching jacket back centerseam and collar edges matching notch marks at lapels (Picture 2b).

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Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance with thelongest stitch of your sewing machine (Picture 3a). Sew sleeve underseams of the (Picture 3b). This is the seam that will go between armand body when the jacket is worn. Sew sleeve upper seams fromtop to where button placket begins (Picture 3c), and from therearound placket at distance of normal seam allowance (Picture 3c). Baste placket fold line (Picture 3d). Fold sleeve cuffs' seam allowanceinside and sew with invisible stitches. If you are sure that the length ofthe sleeves is correct, sew buttons to sleeve button plackets throughall thicknesses of material.

Turn sleeve right side out and jacket wrong side out. Place sleeve inside jacket (rightside against right side) so that sleeve shoulder mark matches with jacket shoulderseam and seam between the two sleeve pieces matches with jacket side seam. Pull oneasestitching in sleeve cap to adjust cap ease. Sew and overlock sleeve cap tojacket. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate moreease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit. There should be as much ease aspossible but no wrinkles at cap seams when done.

To get instructions of how to use a facing at sleeve head to make a perfectly shapedsleeve cap, please read exercise 24 in the tutorial.

Cut extra width to upper part of lining's back (Picture 4a).

Sew and overlock all vertical seams of the lining right sides together (Picture 5a). Zigzag back neck facing to the neck of back lining with lining's wrong side againstlinings right side (Picture 5b). Fold hem inside twice and sew (Picture 5c).

Attach jacket's front facing to lining's front edges, right sides together (Picture 5d )Overlock.

Sew and attach sleeves to lining as you did to jacket.

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#exercise24

#exercise24

To join jacket and lining, place them on top of each other,right sides together. Put collar between jacket and lining.

• Start at point marked with number 1 and sew continuously as follows, refer to Picture 6:

• cross front facing hem (2),

• along one front edge (3),

• along lapel edges (4) and

• front neckline edges (5),

• along back neckline (6)

• and then the same way along the other front edge (7−8) and

• finally across other front facing hem. Stop at point marked with number 9.

Cut seam allowance at starting point of lapels and neck seam at intervals of 3/4 inch (2cm). Cut corners diagonally. Turn lining inside jacket. Open seams and press well. Edgestitch if desired.

Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons. Do final pressing.


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Sewing instructions for Rain CapeIn the table are the sizes available for the rain cape patterns. Sizes are on differentlayers of the drawing. Close the sizes (layers) you do not need, arrange patterns forprinting and print.

Buying macros and pattern collections Download/install the rain cape patterns.

To install you need a password. You get the password when you buy the patterncollection. The price of the pattern collection is 12,61 (US$ 12)

Men XS−S M−L XL−2XL 3XL−4XL

WomenS−M L−XL 2XL−3XL 4XL−5XL

Chest 89−98(35"−381/2"")

97−112 (38"−44")

117−132 (46"−52")

137−142(54"−56")

Waist 66−76 (26"−30")

81−97 (32"−38")

102−117 (40"−46")

122−137(48"−54")

Hips 94−103(37"−401/2"")

99−112 (39"−44")

114−127 (45"−50")

130−14251"−56")

GeneralThe top part of the cape is double. The inner parts of the front and back tops (= lining)are made from fleece or flannel or other breathing fabric. The yoke on top is made fromraincoat fabric or other watertight fabric. It is attached to the hood's neck seam and tothe armscyes and is left open at hem The meaning of this construction is to secureventilation in the garment.

If you want to make an impressive and colorful cape, cut the pieces from fabrics ofdifferent colors, plain or patterned.

Seam allowances and seamsAdd 1,5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances to the seams which are topstitched and 1 cm(3/8") wide seam allowances to other seams. Add 5 cm (2") wide seam allowances tothe bottom edges of the yoke. If the fabric is raveling, finish the seams with zigzag orwith serger. Topstitch the seams from the right side of the garment at a distance of thepresser foot from the edge. Use 0,5−0,6 cm (1/8−1/4") stitch length. If you want tomake the seams decorative, use thread of contrasting color.

Sewing instructions for Rain Cape

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#rain_cape

DrawstringsRead hints of how to make drawstrings from the sewing instructions for thelingerie shoulder straps.

PocketsOn the front piece there is a big patch pocket and two flap pockets. You do not need tosew both, if you don't want to.

Add 3−4 cm (1 1/2") wide seam allowance to the vertical edges of the patch pocket and1 cm (3/8") wide seam allowances to the other edges. Iron the seam allowances of thevertical and the bottom edges of the patch pocket to the wrong side and topstitch at topfor pocket mouths according to the picture. Prepare pocket flaps.

Sew the pocket to the front piece along the vertical and the bottom edges. Sandwichpocket flaps to their places. Leave the pocket mouths and the top edge of the pocketopen. Sandwich the pocket top edge between the front lining and the front piece whensewing this seam.

Read sewing instructions for flap pockets in the general sewing instructions. Hideopenings for flap pocket mouths under the flaps.

SEWING ORDERHood1. Attach the hood center piece to the hood side pieces.Topstitch the seams. Sew buttonholes to the front edges of thehood according to the marks in the patterns for drawstrings.2. Cut the hood peak in two copies from the garment fabricwith seam allowances and one copy of cardboard or plasticwithout seam allowance. Sew the peaks together right side

against right side. Turn the peak right side out, put the cardboard/plastic piece inside itand topstitch the front edge of the peak. Baste the inner edge of the peak. Baste thepeak to the center of the hood front right side against right side.

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#pocket_with_flap

#pocket_with_flap

Attaching the hood to the yoke3. Attach the hood to the neck openingof the yoke right side against right side. Ifyou want a neat seam, cover it with biastape.

4. Fold the hem seam allowance of the yoke to the wrong side and topstitch from theright side of the yoke.

Attaching the hood facing to the lining5. Sew the top seam of the hood facing right side against right side. 6. Sew the bottom edge of the hood facing to the neck opening of the front lining.7. Fold the seam allowance of the front lining in and baste.

8. Pin the front lining and the hood facing attached to it under the yoke and the hoodattached to it right side against right side and CF−edges matching. Leave the zipperedges between the CF edges. Sew along the CF−edges and around the hood frontedge. Turn the hood and the yoke right side out. Topstitch the hood front edge and thezipper edges. Sew another line of stitches to form a casing for the drawstrings leavingthe buttonholes in the middle of the casing.

9. Sew the pockets to the front piece. 10. Sew the bottom edge of the lining on top of thefront piece (under the yoke in the picture). 11. Attach the back lining to the back piece (underthe yoke in the picture).12. Sew the shoulder seams of the lining (under theyoke in the picture). 13. Sew the rest of the neck opening of the lining tothe yoke neck seam.

Bottom edges of front and back pieces14. Finish the bottom edges of the front and the back pieces with separate strips offabric. Read instructions in the general sewing instructions.

Sleeves15. Baste the armscye edges of the front and the back lining to the armscye edges of

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the yoke.16. Attach the sleeves to the armscyes. Topstitch seams. Sew sleeve seams. Sewsleeve cuff seams. Fold them in two wrong side in and sew them to the sleeve endsright side against right side. Topstitch the seam.17. Cut 2 pieces of elastic, each 10 cm (4") long. Sew them as loops in the sleeve cuffseam according to the picture. You can slip your thumbs in these loops to keep yoursleeves from rolling up for example when you ride a bicycle. Topstitch cuff seams. Foldhalf of the cuffs on top of the right side of the sleeves.

Snaps18. Hit no−sew−snaps to the armpit of the cape front and back pieces according to thepicture.19. Prepare the tamps and attach them to the back piece, middle way from the snapsand the hem as in the picture. Hit no−sew−snaps to their outer ends and correspondingcounter snaps to the front piece. With the tamps you can secure that the cape hemdoes not open in wind.


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PatternMaker Sewing projects

Women's topcoatCopyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää

Sewing instruction pages: General | Ladies' garments | Ladies'_lingerie |Maternity and nursing garments | Men's garments | Children's garments

Use PatternMaker ladies' coat/robe macro to draft patterns to this coat. In themacro there are options for two kinds of hoods, normal and integrated. Seepicture.

Iron interfacing to coat's front and back facings,under collar and pocket flaps. It is also good toiron interfacing to coat's hem seam allowance.When cutting the collar pieces, cut upper collarabout 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) bigger at the neckedge. This forces the collar to turn down to its

correct position when it is done.

Only vertical coat seams need to be overlocked. Collar, shoulder and sleeveseams do not need to be overlocked as they will be inside the lining. Press allseams after sewing and overlocking them.

Cut a seam at the linings CB and add extra width to the seam, to form apleat.

Sew pocket flaps together along the outer edge right side to right side.(Picture 1A). Clip seam allowances at corners. Turn flaps right side out andiron. Edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edges.

Sew pockets to the front pieces. Mark the pocket mouth line on the frontpattern pieces by machine basting. Place pocket flap on the line raw edgestowards side seam. Place one pocket bag on top of the flap and the otheropposite it on the pocket mouth line. (Picture 1B).

Sew a rectangle around the pocket mouth line, sewing through all thicknesses.(Picture 1C). Cut along the line and diagonally at the ends at the corners.Push pocket bags to the wrong side of the garment and press. Turn pocket flapto its right position and press. Attach the flap ends to the garment along the

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's topcoat

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edgestitching, sewing through all thicknesses.

If you need more instructions of how to sew pockets, refer to the generalsewing instructions on this site.

Sew the coat's shoulder and side seams. (Picture 2A).

Prepare collar. Sew under collar and top collar together right side to right side.Clip at corners and turn right side out and iron. (Picture 2B). Machine bastethe raw edges of the collar (neck seam) together.

Place collar on the coat's neckline, with right side of under collar against thecoat's right side. Match collar shoulder mark with the coat's shoulder seam.Machine baste the collar to the coat's neck from lapel corner (Picture 2C,point c) to other lapel corner. Clip the seam allowance at the lapel corners.

Prepare sleeves. Sew sleeve elbow darts and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves tothe armscyes. Easestitch sleeve cap, allowing a seam allowance of 1/4 inch(1/2 cm). Turn sleeves right side out and coat wrong side out. Place sleevesinside coat (right side against right side) so that sleeves' shoulder marks matchwith the coat's shoulder seams. Insert sleeves by sewing along easestiches Adjust ease by pulling on the stitching in the ease cap. If there tends to be toomuch ease at sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do),you can adjust this by placing sleeves lower at the armpit. There should be asmuch ease as possible, but no wrinkles at cap seams, when done.

HINT: In the design tutorial there are instructions of how to usea facing in sleeve cap to helps to get nicely formed sleeveheads. Click here .

Prepare lining. Sew the side and the back seams of the lining. Fold the lining's

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hem seam allowance twice in and sew. Sew front facings to the lining frontedges and back neck facing on top of the right side of the lining's back neck.Sew lining's shoulder seams. Sew lining's sleeves and sew the sleeves to thelining.

To join the jacket and the lining, place the lining on top of the coat with rightside against right side. Leave collar in between and upside down. (Picture2D). Sew a continuous seam as follows: across hem of front facing, along one front edge, around neck to other front edge and finally across hem of otherfront facing. Clip seam allowance at at neck seam at about 1 inch (2 cm)intervals. Cut corners diagonally (including the corner atthe front of hem) andturn the lining inside the jacket. Open seams well and press. Edgestitchalong the front edges and around the collar at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) fromthe edges.

If you sew a hood to your coat, attach it to the the coat the same way youattach the collar. You can sew the coat with hood with or without collar. Thelatter one is sewn the same way a shawl collar is sewn.

If you choose to sew a normal or adetachable hood, cut the hoodpieces in 4 copies. If you usedifferent fabric to the hood lining, cut2 hood pieces from the coat fabricand 2 from lining fabric. Sew theback seam of the hood, hood piecesright side aganst right side (Picture3A). Sew the back seam of thelining the same way. Place the lininginside the hood, right side againstright side and sew along front edge(Picture 3B). Turn hood right sideout, open seams, press and

edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edge. Baste the neck edgesof the hood together. Attach the hood to the coat the same way you attach thecollar. You can sew both the collar and the hood to your coat.

If you want to sew a detachable hood, sew its neck seam from the wrong side− before turning the hood right side out. Leave an opening for turning the hoodright side out. Close the opening with hand stitches. Then press andedgestitch. Sew buttonholes to the neck edge of the hood and buttons to thecoat neck (Picture 3B). Or use snaps. If you use zipper as the fastener, sewone half of it to the coat neck seam under the collar and the other half to thehood neck seam.

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If you choose the integrated hood, sewthe coat's shoulder (Picture 4A, a) andside seams (Picture 4A, b) and the backseam of the hood (Picture 4A, d−g). Cutthe seam allowance at the shoulder/neckcorner of the coat (Picture 4A, arrow)and sew the hood neck (Picture 4A, c)to the coat neck (Picture 4A, g). Cutclips to the seam allowances withintervals of about 1" (2 cm).

Prepare the lining as for coat with collar and attach the front facing with theintegrated hood to the front edges of the lining (Picture 4B ). Sew shoulderseam. Cut seam allowance at the shoulder/neck corner. Sew the back seam ofthe hood and sew the hood neck to the coat neck in the lining as in the coat.Cut clips to the seam allowances. Press coat and lining. Put them right sideagains right side and sew accross the hem of one facing and around front andhood edges and accross the hem of the other front facing. Turn the coat rightside out, open seams and press. Edgestitch front edge at a distance of 3/4"(1.5 cm) from the edge.

Fold sleeve cuff seam allowances in and sew with invisible stitches. Attach thelining to the sleeve ends. Sew hem with invisible stitches. Sew buttons andbuttonholes.

Sew belt loops and attach them on side seamsaccording to the marks in the patterns. Sew belt. Cutbelt double from coat fabric on fold and single fromquilted lining fabric. Fold the belt lengthwise into two,right side in, place lining on top of it and sew accrossthe ends and along the long side. Leave an openingfor turning the belt right side out. Turn the belt rightside out and close the opening with hand stitches.Edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from theedges.

Sew button holes in front edge of one front piece according to marks in thepatterns, only 2 button holes (look at the drawing). Sew buttons on top of other2 button holes in this same front piece. Sew 2 button holes to the other frontpiece, only 2 buttons.

Do the final pressing.

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Sewing instructions for maternity and nursing garments

Copyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki,

Järvenpää

Also refer to sewing instructions for Women's Vol. 1 macros and general sewing instructions

You can sew most of the garments in the maternity macro collection by following theapplicable sewing instructions for Women's Vol. 1 macros. On this page we giveinstructions to sew details which are not covered in the Women's garment instructions.For some details we refer to the general sewing instructions page .

Not−pregnant optionIn most of the maternity macros there is a"not−pregnant−option". In garments meant for pregnantwomen extra ease has been added − not only to the waistcircumference − but to front height , too. Otherwise the fronthem would rise higher than the rest of the hem.

The amount of eased added to the front height is determined by an average value, andmay not work in all situations. Therefore, it is important that you check that the hem isparallel to the floor all around the garment when fitting the garment on.

If you use the garment after your pregnancy, shorten the hem at the front, if needed.

The bottom edges of the pockets have to be parallel to the hem. Therefore, do notfasten the pockets until you are sure that front height is OK and you can align pocketsaccording to it.

Hint : If you are sewing a garment for a person who is not pregnant, but has a round ortilted abdomen, choose "pregnant−option" and check that the hem is parallel to thefloor when you try the garment on the subject. Straighten the front hem if needed.


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MeasuringWaist circumference is not asked in the maternity macros. These garments have aloose waist construction.

The macro estimates the waist circumference of maternity pants and skirt accordingto the hip circumference measurement, and the necessary amount of extra ease isadded. In the dialog box, therefore, the amount of added front height and width isasked. The default values are 3cm/1.25" and 6cm/2.5" per pattern piece (i.e. 1/2 of thefront piece). So, for example, 6cm/2.5" of added front width means that the estimatedpattern waist circumference has been increased by 12cm/5".

You can change these measurements according to the phase of your pregnancy orwhen sewing garments for a person with a round or tilted abdomen. To be sure thatthese values are OK, measure the abdomen circumference of the front and backpatterns, multiply the measurement by 2 (because the patterns are 1/2 patterns).Compare this value to the circumference measurement of your abdomen. Rememberthat there is a handy measuring tool (Draw/Dim) in the PatternMaker editing toolswhich you can use to measure the patterns on screen.

The circumference of theabdomen of the patterns mustbe 2−4cm/0.75−1.5" more thanthe abdomen circumference ofyour body. If you need toincrease or decrease the theamount of added ease on theabdomen level, change theadded front width value in themeasurements dialog box. If youneed to add only a little (lessthan 5 cm/2"), don't change theadded height value. If you needadded width of more than5cm/2" (in addition to the default6 cm/2.5"), change the addedfront height value so that it is1/3−1/4 of the added front width

value. Do the fine adjustment when fitting the garment on.

If you are not pregnant...

You can type "0" (zero) as the added front width and/or height value. The resultwill then be patterns for normal pants or skirt. If you are not pregnant but have around or tilted abdomen and you want to have extra ease at the abdomen areaof the garment, check the correct amount of added front width and/or height bymeasuring the patterns and your body. Start with an added front width of "0" (zero)and added front height of 3cm/1.25". Measure the patterns and your body andchange these values until you are satisfied with the abdomen width and height ofthe pattern.

Note ! Do not add anything to the body measurements when typing them inthe measurements dialog box. The macro adds the needed moving and designease amounts on top of the body measurements.

When wearing the pants and the skirt you can adjust their waist using thehook−and−loop tape construction at the waistband.

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Dress with bow

Sew darts of the front bodice. Iron.

Continue sewing the bow and fasten it to the bottom edge of the front bodice. If you areusing lightweight fabric, iron interfacing to the wrong side of the bow pieces (Picture 1).

Fold the bow piece in half lengthwise, right sides together. ( Picture 2a ). Sew shortedges of the bow. Leave the long edge raw. Turn the bow right side out, open theseams well and iron. Fold the bow fastening band in half lengthwise, right sidestogether, and sew the long edge ( Picture 2b ).

Leave the short edges raw. Turn the band right side out, open seams well and iron.Center the seam of the band (= this will be the bottom side of band).

Position one short edge of the band at the center ofthe bottom edge of the front bodice, with the seam ofthe band upwards. Fasten the band to the frontbodice with a horizontal seam ( Picture 3a ).

Place the bow on top of the fasteningband and sew the raw edges to thefront bodice. ( Picture 3b ). Fold thebow according to the picture and turnthe fastening band down. Sew theother short edge of the fasteningband to the front bodice. ( Picture3c ).

Fold and baste the pleats of the front hem piece. Put the front bodice and hem pieceson top of each other right side of the pieces together. Sew the seam fastening frontbodice to front hem.

Continue according to the sewing instructions for the dress in the Women's Vol. 1Macro Collection.

Maternity pants and skirtYou can sew the pants and the skirts either with a plain front or with a separateembedded front (abdomen) piece. Use stretchy elastic fabric for the embedded frontpiece. If the fabric is very thin, cut it on double fabric.

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Pants, embedded abdomen piece

Cut the embedded abdomen piece of elastic fabric on fold without a CF seam. Put thepattern on the fabric so that the elasticity of the fabric is horizontal. Cut the bottompieces of the pants normally. Sew and overlock the joining seam of the abdomen pieceand the front bottom piece. Continue according to instructions below.

Skirt, embedded abdomen piece

Cut the embedded abdomen piece and the bottom piece of the front skirt of elasticfabric on fold without a CF seam. Put the pattern of the abdomen piece on the fabric sothat the elasticity of the fabric is horizontal. Cut the bottom pieces of the skirt normally.Sew and overlock the joining seam of the abdomen piece and the front bottom piece.Continue according to instructions below.

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband. Overlock the edges of the waistband and the pocket pieces.

Put front pieces of the pants on top of each other right sides together. Sew andoverlock the CF seam. ( Picture 1a ). Iron.

Match the pocket facings to the pocket mouths of the front pants, right sides together.Sew and overlock pocket mouth. ( Picture 1b ). Use a fabric tape cut from the selvageof the fabric in the pocket mouth seam. It will prevent pocket mouth from stretchingwhen the pants are worn. Iron.

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Turn pocket facings to the wrong side of the pants and edgestitch pocket mouths withone or two rows of stitches. ( Picture 2a ). Iron.

Sew waistband to the front pants: put it on the top edge of the pants, right sidestogether, and sew. Iron seam allowances upwards (towards the waist band). Foldwaistband in half lengthwise and sew the short edges of the waistband. Turn the waistband right side out; fold seam allowances of the waist band inside it and edgestitchalong all edges. ( Picture 2b ). Iron.

Place pocket bags on top of pocket facings right sides together (Picture 3a ).

Sew and overlock the round edges of the pocket facings and pocket bags between thearrows in the picture. Leave the rest of the seam unsewn. ( Picture 3b ). Iron thepocket bags.

Place the back pieces of the pants on top of each other, right sides together, and sewthe CB seam of the pants. Picture 4a ). Iron.

Place front and back pants on top of each other right sides together ( Picture 4b ).

Sew and overlock side seams ( Picture 5a ). Sew and overlock the inside leg seams ofthe pants continuously from cuff to cuff ( Picture 5b ).

Overlock the top edges of back pants and pocket bags. Fold into casings according tomarks in the patterns( Picture 6 ). Sew casing along the pants' waist line. Iron. Threadelastic to the casing and fasten it with vertical stitch lines at the ends of the casings.

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Sew pieces of hook−and−loop tape (Velcro) to the ends of the elastic edges ( Picture 7a ) and to the wrong side of the front waistband ( Picture 7 b ).

If you want to, sew trimming buttons to the right side ends of the front waistband (Picture 8 ).

Sew the waist of the maternity skirt the same way. Sew the skirt otherwise according tothe sewing instructions of the skirt of the Women's Vol. 1 Macros .

Jacket or dress with pleatsFold and baste the pleats of front and back pieces. Sew the button extension accordingto the general sewing instructions . If you want to sew the jacket/dress which is open allthe way CF, cut the button extension all the way to the hem.

Hint : If you want to, sew a casing for elastic to the hem as in the picture. Thread thecasing with draw string. To make the draw string, use a length of elastic with fabric atthe ends. This way the hem is more flexible.

Salsa jacket or dressSet your machine to the longest stitch length, and baste alongthe top edge of the salsa pieces. Baste again 0.5cm/0.25" fromthe first basting line, inside the seam allowance. Gather thestitches until the edge corresponds to the edge to which it willbe joined.

Sew upper salsa pieces to front and back top parts. Sew the bottom salsa pieces to thehems of the upper salsa pieces. Overlock the joining seams.

Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams of the jacket/dress. Sew and overlock thesleeve seams. Join the sleeves to the armscyes of the garment.

If you sew a flat collar for the garment (refer to the green dress in the picture), cut twocopies of it (upper and bottom collars). Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the bottomcollar. Put upper and bottom collars on top of each other, right sides together, and sewthe outer edge of the collar. Clip the seam allowance along the round edges of thecollar. Turn the collar right side out, open seams well and iron. Edgestitch the collar ifyou want to.

Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of the neck facings. Sew the shoulder seams of the

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facings. Overlock outer edges of the facings. Open seams well and iron.

Fold in the seam allowance of the button extensions. Baste. Fold button extensionsalong the fold line marked in the patterns on top of the right side of the garment. Sewacross bottom edges of the button extensions with distance of the hem seamallowance from the edge. Overlock the hem.

Place collar on top of the neck opening of the front bodice and the button extensionbottom collar against the right side of the garment. Place the neck facing on top of thecollar right side down and sew through all thicknesses at distance of seam allowancefrom the edge of the neck opening. Clips the seam allowances at intervals of about2cm/.75". Finger−press the seam open, understitch through the facing and the collarand the seam allowance. Iron.

Tip: Understitch through the seam allowances of the facing and collar (for instructionsplease refer to general sewing instructions ).

If you sew the garment without a collar, finish the neck opening with the facing, usinginstructions above.

Turn the button extensions to their right positions and fasten them to the front piecesalong the basted edge. Iron. Fasten buttons and sew button holes. Edgestitch the neckopening and the button extension, if you want to. Sew hem with blind stitches of thesewing machine.

nursing garments in general

In the nursing garments there usually are two−layered fronts: inner and outer. In mostcases vertical nursing openings are in the inner fronts. The outer front lies loose on theinner front and is fastened to the shoulder seams and to the armscyes. It hides thenursing openings.

Hint : If you want to sew a " normal version" of a nursing garment (with no nursingopenings), sew the edges of the nursing opening together, forming a seam.

Nursing shirt

Cut an extension to the breast feeding opening according to marks on the patterns i.e.about 5cm/2" downwards from the breast apex ( a−b in picture 1 ). Fold the hem seamallowances of the outer front pieces inwards twice and sew. Place the outer frontpieces on top of the inner front pieces (the edges of the nursing openings side by side)and baste along front edges, neck openings, shoulders, armscyes and side seams.Picture 2.

Iron interfacing to half of the wrong side of the button extension. Place button extension

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on top of the front pieces right sides together. Sew. Picture 3. Fold in and baste seamallowance from the other long edge of the button extension. Iron the seam allowancetowards the button extension.

Fold the button extension lengthwise in twoalong the fold line marked in the patterns wrongside in and sew across bottom edge of thebutton extension with distance of the hem seamallowance from the edge. Overlock the hem.Fold the button extension right side out and sewalong the basted seam allowance edge.

Tip: Finish the edges of the nursing openings with separate strips of fabric e.g.according to the bound slit instructions in the general sewing instructions .

Sew the rest of the shirt according to the sewing instructions of the shirt of the women'svol. 1 macros .

Nursing bodyshirt

Fold ribbings in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and mark the 1/2−points of themwith pins. Mark in the same way the 1/2−points of the edges of the front pieces. Pinribbings to the corresponding edges of the garment raw edges and marking pinsmatching. ( Picture 1 ) Sew.

Finger press the seam allowances away from the ribbing and sew through the garmentand the seam allowance with double needle on the right side of the garment near thejoining seam of the ribbing. ( Picture 1a ) Cut away excess seam allowance from thewrong side of the garment.

Pin the top (outer front) and the bottom front (inner front) pieces on top of each otherwith the wrong side of the top front piece against the right side of the bottom frontpiece. Baste along armscyes and side seams. ( Picture 2 ) Handle the front piecesfrom this point on as a single piece.

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Sew and overlock the shoulder and the side seams.

Iron interfacing on the wrong side of the neck facing. Sew andoverlock the shoulder seams of the facing. Overlock the outeredge of the facing. Pin the facing on the garment neck openingrights sides together and sew it to the garment at a distance ofthe seam allowance from the edge. ( Picture 3 ) .

Clip seam allowances at intervals of about 2cm/.75". Fingerpress the seam open,understitch through the facing and the seam allowance. Iron carefully. Sew andoverlock the sleeve seams. Sew sleeves to the armscyes of the garment.

Turn a seam allowance of 3−5cm/1.25−2" from the sleeve ends andfrom the hem. Sew with double needle on the right side of thegarment. ( Picture 4 ) Cut away the excess seam allowance fromthe wrong side of the garment.

Hint : You can sew a short top to be used as underwear or sport garment using thepattern of outer front. Cut Back piece to same length. Finish neck opening, armscyesand hem with ribbings. Use the ease option of "minimum".

Nursing dress

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Sew and overlock the joining seams of the front hem pieces. Turn the seam allowancesof the front top pieces in and sew according to the picture. ( Picture 1 ) Place andbaste front top pieces on top of each other according to marks in the patterns.

Sew and overlock the joining seam of the front top and hem pieces. ( Picture 2 ). Iron.

Sew and overlock the joining seams of the back hem pieces. Leave the CB seamunsewn for the time being. Sew the shoulder darts of the back pieces and join the backtop pieces to the back hem pieces. Iron. Overlock the edges of the CB seam. Sew CBseam from hem to a distance of approximately 20cm/8" from the waist marksdownwards (to the hip level). Baste the rest of the CB seam. Iron the seam open.Fasten zipper to the top (= basted) part of the CB seam. Unravel the basting stitches.(Picture 3 ).

Place front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Sew andoverlock the shoulder and the side seams. When sewing the shoulder seams place the

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edges of the nursing openings on front piece side by side. ( Picture 4 ).

Prepare the outer top as follows. Sew hemmings to the CBedges of the outer back. Sew and overlock the side seamsof the outer top. Sew hem seam allowances of the top. (Picture 5 ). Iron.

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the neck facing. Sew shoulder seams of the neckfacing. Overlock the outer edge of the neck facing. Iron.

Pin outer top piece on top of the inner top piece, matching neck openings andarmscyes. Position neck facing at the neck opening, right sides together. Sew atdistance of the seam allowance from edge. ( Picture 6 ). Sew understitching throughthe facing and the seam allowances and turn the facing inside the garment.

Fasten facing with hand stitches to the zipper tapesand to the shoulder seams at the wrong side of thegarment. Leave the outer back pieces loose on theinner back piece. Do not sew them to the CB seam.

If you sew long sleeves with flounce, sew and overlock the joining seam of the flouncepiece and the sleeve. Sew and overlock the sleeve seams from cuff to armpit. ( Picture7 ). Fasten sleeves to armscyes through outer and inner tops.


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PatternMaker Sewing projects:

Jacket with removable sleevesTypes of fastenersIf you want to sew a jacket with removable sleeves, there are many alternatives. Asfasteners you can use

1) zippers2) buttons3) no−sew snaps4) fabric− or leather−covered snaps5) snap tape6) hook−and−loop tape (Velcro)

Preparing the armscyes

Armscye facings

The sleeves can be fastened to the armscyes without no changes in the shell pieces.The fasteners can be hidden (picture 1) or visible (picture 2). In these designalternatives the armscyes are finished with facings. Facing must be topstitched −unless you use zippers and the lapped application as suggested below − to keep thesleeves in place when fastened under the facings.

How to draft facings to the armscys and the sleeve caps using the editing tools ofPatternmaker is described in Exercise 24 in the Design Tutorial: "Drafting facings".

When using zippers as fasteners, use the lapped application to hide the zipper underthe lap. This method is described in "Attaching zipper to pants or skirt" in the GeneralSewing instructions. Topstitch the lap with hand stitching, machine blind stitching orplain maching stitching.

Armscye with a flange or a pleat

The fasteners can be hidden under a flange (picture 3) or pleat (picture 4).

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Alter the front pattern pieces according to the pictures to the left.

Preparing the sleeve capAlways sew the side seam of the shell and the sleeve seams before attachingfasteners or facings to them.

If you use zipper you can attach it directly to the sleeve cap. Use added seamallowance (picture 5A) to be able to place the zipper 0.5−1 cm outwards from theoriginal sleeve cap seam line.

After having sewn one edge of the zipper to thesleeve cap, close the zipper and position the sleeveunder the armscye matching armscye edge and theoriginal sleeve cap seam. Baste or pin the otheredge of the zipper to its place. Topstitch it from theright side of the armscye. The zipper will be hiddenunder the zipper lap.

Another way is to sew a facing to the sleeve cap and sandwich the zipper between thesleeve cap and the facing (picture 5B).

The third alternative is to sew another armscye facing and to attach sleeve to it asyou would sew the sleeve to the garment armscye (picture 5C). Sandwitch zipperbetween the sleeve and the facing. If you use buttons, snaps or pieces ofhook−and−loop tape, sew them to the facing sewn to the sleeves and the the counterparts to the armscye facings.

Whichever alternative you choose you have to secure that the sleeve cap ease ispreserved. Here is a good method to handle the cap ease.

Cap easeWhen using the dropped sleeve design there is no need to use ease in the sleeve cap.If you use a fitted sleeve cap design you have to secure that the sleeve cap ease ispreserved.

Here is a good method to handle thecap ease. Cut a 5 cm/2" wide bias fabricstrip or from a stretchy fabric. Fold it intwo and sew to the sleeve head as inthe photo at the distance of the seamallowance from the edge stretching thestrip as much as possible when sewing.

The strip will gather the sleeve cap and is very easy to handle when sewing sleeves tothe garment. The strip also gives the needed support to the sleeve cap and gives it anice, round shape. When attaching a zipper to the sleeve cap − or the sleeve to thearmscye − stitch to the ditch i.e. along the earlier stitch line.


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Two tunicsUse knit, jersey or other stretchy fabric.

Sew the seams with serger or with medium long narrow, zigzag stitches. Trim andoverlock seam allowances if using zigzag. Sew hem and sleeve cuffs with doubleneedle and trim seam allowances from the wrong side of the garment.

Tunic with flared hem and chimney collar

Preparing the patterns

Use the blouse macro in PatternMaker ladies' vol. 1 macro collection.

PatternMaker Sewing projects Two tunics

Cut away button extension and front facing. Increase width of neck opening with 2 cm(3/4") and lower neck opening at the front with 3 cm (1 1/4"). Draft 6 hem flare piecesaccording to the drawing from waist to hem, width at the hem 20 cm (7 3/4").

Draft pattern for collar according to drawing, height 40 cm (15 3/4"), width same as thecircumference of the neck opening of the garment. Remember to add seam allowances.

Sewing the collar

Iron interfacing to collar piece as in the photo and sew button holes for draw string.

Sew the vertical seam of the collar (raw edges in the picture) right side against rightside. Iron seam. Turn collar right side out and fold into finished height. (The height ofthe collar piece is 40 cm (15 3/4") and finished height 20 cm). Sew a 3 cm (1 1/4")wide casing for the draw string at the top edge of the collar. machine baste along thebottom edge.

Sewing the draw strings

Cut a 5 cm (2") wide fabric strip. Fold it lengthwise into two right side inside and sewthe long edge. Trim seam allowance if needed. Clip one end of the draw string as in thepicture and slip safety pin trough the clipping. Turn the draw string right side out usingthe pin. Slip the draw string into the casing.

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Sewing the tunic

Hint: Use multicolored fabric to the shell and monochrome fabric or fabric of contratingcolor to the collar, the flare pieces and the skirt as in the sample garments.

Sew one hem flare piece to both edges of the center front piece from waist to hem.Sew front side pieces to front center piece. Sew hem flare pieces to the sides of thefront side pieces. Sew one hem flare piece to both edges of the center back piece fromwaist to hem. Sew back side pieces to back center piece.

Sew side and shoulder seams. Sew collar into neck opening. Sew the sleeve seamsand hem the sleeve cuffs. Attach sleeves into armscyes. Hem the tunic.

Sew a matching skirt

If you want to sew a matching long skirt with draw string at the hem, cut one straightpiece for it, width according to your hip circumference + 10 cm (4") ease and lengthaccording to the desired skirt length. Add 2 x 4 cm (2 x 1.5") + seam allowance to thetop edge of the skirt for waist elastic and 2 x 3 cm (2 x 1") + seam allowance to thebottom edge of the skirt for a casing for draw string. Another alternative is to use theskirt macro in the ladies' vol. 1 macro collection. There is an option for elastic waist.

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the skirt hem CF where you intend to sew thebutton holes for the draw string. Replace at least half of the draw string with elastic tomake sure that the hem stretches enough when you walk.

Tunic with pleats at back hem

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Preparing the patterns

Use the shirt macro in the ladies' vol. 1 macros.

Cut away button extension and front facing. Increase the width of the neck openingwith 1cm (1/2") and lower neck opening at the front with 3 cm (2 1/4") or as much asyou want to.

Cut the patterns and draft the pattern for the pleated back hem piece according to thedrawing.

Sewing the tunic

Topstitch all the seams except of the side, shoulder and sleeve seams with doubleneedle immediately you have sewn (and ironed) the seam. Iron again aftertopstitching. Sew the hem and sleeve cuffs with double needle and trim excess fabricfrom the wrong side.

Sew the lower front pieces together right side against right side. Sew the horizontalseam of the front piece right against right. Sew side seams. Hem this part of the tunic.

Hem the back pleat piece. Fold, iron and edgestitch the pleats. Machine baste at thetop edge. Attach the pleat piece to the CB top piece right side against right side.

Sew the vertical back seam. Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams.Attachsleeves to the shell.

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Read instructions in the general sewing instructions of how to sew a neat boundedge to the neck opening and sleeve cuffs.


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Sewing instructions for women's lingerieCopyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää, Finland

TerminologyPlease refer to picture to get acquainted with the terminology used.

Nowadays most bras are made with underwires. They are of metal or plastic and areinserted into casings at bottom edge of the cups. If you cannot find underwires in yourfabric shop, you can use used ones from an old bra. Sometimes you can find bras atvery low prices at sales or in discount stores. If so, it might be worthwhile buying verycheap bras just for their underwires and − why not − shoulder straps.

Women with a prominent bust are recommended to sew classic bras withoutunderwires.

Sewing instructions for women's lingerie

Sewing lingerieTo sew your own lingerie to your personal measurements is most rewarding. Withmodern sewing machines and sergers it is also easy and quick. With luxurious fabrics,beautiful laces, lace appliqués and light lingerie elastics, you can make beautifullingerie that is all your own.

PatternMaker Macro Lingerie can be sewn of elastic or non−elastic fabrics. Uselightweight, easy−care fabrics of cotton, silk or synthetic fiber content, in either knit orwovens. Buy fabric enough for a test garment. Sometimes you may need to make acouple of test garments before you master the sewing and measuring techniques.

Scaling patterns to account for stretching in the fabric

One of the best features of PatternMaker Macro Patterns for Lingerie is the fact thatpatterns can be reduced in size to account for stretching in the fabric. You will need tocalculate the stretching factors for the fabric you use. Examine how much the fabricstretches horizontally and vertically and let the program resize the patterns accordingly.There is a Dialog Box for this purpose in the PatternMaker Lingerie Macro. You areasked to give Horizontal and Vertical Scaling Factors.

To determine the factors for a particular fabric, stretchthe fabric and measure its elasticity. Fold piece offabric in two and stretch it separately in height andwidth along a ruler. "Height" is the direction that will bevertical when you put the pattern on the fabric, and"width" is the horizontal direction. Measureunstretched and stretched width and height of thefabric. The Scaling Factor needed is calculated bydividing the measurement of the unstretched fabric bythe measurement of the stretched fabric. Stretchmoderately, as the fabric would stretch on your body.

Example:

If the unstretched width and height of the fabric is 40 cm and the stretched width of thefabric is 50 cm and height 45 cm

Horizontal Scaling Factor is 40/50=0.8 andvertical Scaling Factor is 40/45 = 0.9

In other words, if the fabric is stretches 20%, the scaling factor is 0.8.

The Lingerie Macro does not reduce patterns for bra cups, bra front center triangle andbody front center piece, nor does it reduce corset patterns. These parts should bemade of a non−elastic fabric. If you sew them of elastic material, make them doublethickness or line or cover them with non−elastic fabric or lace.

Hint : When sewing normal, short bra, always use a vertical scaling factor of "1". It isbetter not to reduce height of bra back panels even if the fabric is somewhat elastic inheight.

Hint : If you want the patterns to exactly match your body measurements, use defaultscaling factors "1". It is also possible to use scaling factors greater than "1". In thiscase, the patterns are drawn larger than your body measurements i.e. the patterns willhave ease. This might be necessary if you use the waist length bra patterns to sew anevening top of non−elastic fabric, for instance.

If you sew lingerie entirely of non−elastic fabric, you have to use scaling factors thatare greater than "1". How much "ease" you have to add, is a question of the model and

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the fabric used. If you are not familiar with adding ease to patterns, it is better to useelastic fabrics.

The Lingerie Macro lets you decide whether your Basic Bodice (Sloper) that is thebasis for all the patterns is drawn along with lingerie pattern pieces. Use this as areference to see how the pieces fit the sloper pattern. By doing so you will see howlingerie patterns are drawn in relation to basic bodice. The Lingerie Macro drafts theBasic Bodice patterns with normal ease i.e. bust circumference ease 8 cm (3.2").

Please notice also, that patterns Basic Bodice are not reduced in scale even if you usescaling factors smaller than 1. Therefore, if you want to experiment how lingeriepatterns are drawn in relation to basic bodice patterns, use scaling factors of 1.

MATERIALS AND NOTIONSYou can order lingerie fabrics and acessories through Internet, here you have oneaddress http://www.sewsassy.com/ .

In addition to the fabric you will need:

BRA:

• narrow lingerie elastic for finishing top and bottom edges of bra back panels 2hooks of two−row hook−and−eye tape for back closing bra underwires, whichcome in sizes according to measurements taken under breasts (70, 75, 80 cmetc.)

• elastic tube band for casings for underwires, or alternatively, 2 cm wide biasbinding tape basted lengthwise in two

• band for shoulder straps (optional; you can also make shoulder straps from brafabrics)

• shoulder strap adjustment clips (optional)

WAIST LENGTH BRA:

• same accessories as for bra above except for hook−and−eye tape• a zipper which opens from both ends, or accessories for another kind of front

closing• bra ribs (bones) or rigid plastic/nylon tape sold for this purpose to stiffen bra

vertical seams. Measure the needed amount of tape from pattern.

BODYSUIT WITH BRA CUPS:

• same accessories as for bra above• 3 hooks from one−row hook−and−eye tape for crotch closing

CORSET:

• corset ribs (bones) or rigid plastic/nylon tape sold for this purpose to stiffencorset vertical seams (measure the needed amount of tape from pattern, butnote that tape is not inserted in the seam which goes over bust)

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• lace, embroidery and/or lace appliqués for corset top and bottom edgings• a zipper which opens from both ends or other kind of front closure• for an adjustable corset, button loop tape and draw string for back center seam

PANTIES:

• ingerie elastic for edges of leg openings • 2−3 cm wide elastic or elastic lace for waist

LACE, LACE APPLIQUÉS OR OTHER LINGERIEDECORATIONS:If you want to, you can decorate lingerie with lace. You can replace part of fabric withlace or lace fabric or you can use lace fabric to cover the lingerie fabric. Examineready−made lingerie for ideas. Before you do this, however, learn the basic techniquesfor sewing lingerie. Only after you are familiar with the basic techniques should you tryspecial techniques or materials.

Hint: If you want to sew a padded bra, use the bra cup patterns to cut padding from thinwadding or fleece. Line bra cups and place padding between bra fabric and lining. Cutbra cups a bit larger than the pattern so that the padding fits inside the bra.

You can also line only the padding and fasten it into the bottom seams of the cups. Inthis way − leaving the padding free at top edges of the cups − you give the paddingbetter form.

Hint: Try sewing bra cups of padded fabric and bra back panels of elastic fabricmatching the color of the padded fabric. It is quick and easy.

MeasuringFor Lingerie Macro you need same measurements as for other PatternMaker macros(refer to the Ladies’ macro manual for this) and a few additional measurements. Takethe additional measurements according to illustration hereunder. The easiest way totake the bra cup measurements is to put on a bra you already have that fits well andtake the measurements from it.

Have a set of the underwires that you will use available before you start measuringyourself, since the length of these is one of the measurements you will need.

If you take cup measurements directly from breast, put bra underwire under the breastand mark its end points (i.e. points A and B) with non−permanent ink on your skin.Mark point E on your skin also: it is directly above the breast apex, upwards to the pointwhere you want your bra’s top edge to be. This point is a design choice and you candetermine it yourself. These marks help you to take the right measurements.

Do not try to measure yourself − it does not work. Ask a friend to take themeasurements.

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MEASUREMENTS IN THE LINGERIE MACRO DIALOGBOX:

• Arc width (place underwire on table and measure horizontally from one end ofunderwire to the other)

• Breast width (place underwire under your breast and measure from one endof the underwire over bust apex to the other end of underwire)

• Width around breast top (as the previous one but not over bust apex butaround top of breast)

• Crotch height front (from CF waist vertically to center of your crotch)• Pants height front (from front waistline to edge of leg opening, measure

vertically at the midpoint of CF waist and side)• Crotch height back (from CB waist vertically to center of your crotch)• Pants height back (from back waistline to edge of leg opening under buttocks,

measure vertically at the midpoint of CB waist and side)

Bra with arc

Cup top height = from bust apex vertically to the point where the bra top edge iswanted to beCup bottom height = from bottom of breast vertically to bust apex

Bra without arc

Cup top height = from bust apex vertically to the point where the bra top edge iswanted to beCup bottom height = from bottom of breast vertically to bust apexBand height, side = desired band height at sideBand height, back = desired band height at CB

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Preparing the fabric, cutting and adding seamallowancesIf you are not sure that your fabric and laces won't shrink when washed, prewash andiron them to preshrink them.

Fold fabric in two. Cut the following pattern pieces on fold: bra center triangles/midriffpieces (2 each).

• bodysuit center front and center back pieces• corset center front and center back pieces

On the cup patterns there is a two−headed arrow. This is the grain line. Place thepattern on the fabric so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is parallel to this arrow.The cups will fit much better if the pieces are cut this way. If the fabric which you aregoing to use stretches in both directions, it usually stretches more in one direction. Insuch a case use this as the direction of the grain line.

The center triangles of the bra with underwire and the midriff piece of the bra withoutunderwire can be cut from a non−elastic fabric. If you cut these pieces from an elasticfabric, line or overlay the pieces with non−elastic fabric or lace.

Cut the body pieces of the waist bra and the bodysuit as well as the pieces for thecorset and the panties so that the fabric stretches horizontally.

The top pieces of the cups can also be cut from a non−elastic fabric or lace. If you linethe cups, use elastic lining fabric for the bottom pieces of the cups and cut it the samedirection you cut the cups.

Add 2 cm seam allowance to seams into which you are going to insert ribs (waistlength bra and corset vertical seams). Add 1 cm seam allowance to all other seams.Add to panties' top edge a seam allowance that equals the width of the waist elasticyou are using.

Sewing and overlocking

Seams

Best results are achieved when sewing seams with a serger. If you don't have a serger,sew seams with narrow zigzag. Use at least 3 mm long stitches. Stitches that are tooshort can break the fabric. If sewing the garment of non−elastic fabric with sewingmachine, trim seams to 6 mm and overlock seam allowances together with zigzag.Tricot and lace fabrics do not need overlocking.

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Lace appliqués and medallions

You can insert lace medallions and motifs cut from lace fabric on your lingerie. Usetransparent tape to position lace inserts on right side of the garment and stitch nearedge, through tape, using narrow zigzag and medium length. After fastening the lace,remove tape and cut the underlying fabric with sharp scissors.

Finishing edges

Edge finishes can be done in many ways depending on the characteristics of the edge.If you want to reduce length of edge (in leg openings for panties, for instance), useedge elastic or sew transparent elastic into the seam. Following techniques can beapplied for edge finishes:

1) Bound edge finishes : Cut seam allowance away from edges. Sew bias bindingtape on wrong side of the edge, turn it round edge to the right side of the garment andsew at edge.

2) Picot edge finishes : Overlock seam allowance of non−elastic fabric and turn it towrong side. Sew on right side with straight stitch near edge. If you are using elasticfabric, use seam allowance of 2−3 cm. Fold seam allowance inside and sew on rightside with overedge or blanket stitch along edge. Trim excess fabric away from finishededge close to stitching. Twin needle is also a good solution and gives a professionallook for this kind of edges.

A beautiful scalloped edging is achieved by using wide and long overedge stitch, andstitching so that right swing of the needle stitches over folded edge and the remainingstitches are on the fabric. Nice but easy wavy picot edging is sewn by using densezigzag over folded edge and stretching the fabric tight when sewing. Excess fabric istrimmed away from the seam after sewing.

3) Lace−trimmed edges : If the fabric is elastic, the lace must also be elastic. If youuse narrow edge lace, position the lace upside down on the fabric, right sides together,with straight edge of lace 1 cm (= seam allowance) from raw edge. Machine−basteelastic near edge. Turn lace to final position and turn seam allowance inside. Stitchwith 3−stitch zigzag on right side of the garment along edge of lace. Trim excess fabricfrom wrong side of garment.

If you use wide edge lace, tape lace in place, wrong side of lace against right side ofgarment, and zigzag over tape near edge of lace. Trim excess fabric from wrong sideof garment.

4) Elastic−trimmed edges : Machine baste elastic to the edge upside down, right sideagainst right side. Stretch elastic when basting. Turn elastic to its correct position oninside and topstitch on right side of the garment with 3−stitch zigzag stretching theelastic when zigzagging.

If the elastic is applied to an edge which will lie flat when complete (like edges of braback panels), it needs to be stretched only a little.

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If the elastic is applied to an edge which will be shrunk when complete (like panties' legopenings), stretch it a little more. Measure the length of elastics for this kind of edges(waist and leg openings) around your body. As a rule of thumb you can use thefollowing: length of the edge elastic is 2/3 of the length of the edge.

Hint : You can use regular narrow elastic to replace edge elastic. Machine baste it towrong side of the edge, stretching it while basting. When turning elastic and seamallowance to wrong side of the garment, and topstitching the edge with 3−stitch zigzagon right side of the garment, the elastic is left hidden inside seam allowance.

Waist elastic for panties is fastened in the following way. Divide elastic and garmentedge into fourths; mark both with pins. Pin elastic to fabric, wrong sides together andedge of elastic even with raw edge of fabric. Match pin marks. Machine baste close topicot edge, stretching while basting. Turn elastic to its final position inside the garmentand topstitch with 3−stitch zigzag along bottom edge of elastic. Elastic is hidden insidewaist seam allowance.

Sew lace appliqué or medallion at edge of garment in the following way. Finish edge ofgarment using one of the above−mentioned edge finishing techniques. Position lace,right side up, in its place on right side of the garment with transparent tape. For edgeswith elastic (like at panties' waist), stretch edge when taping the lace in place. Topstitchlace along its edges with narrow zigzag over tape. Finally, remove the tape and cutunderlying fabric away with sharp scissors.

Hint: You can use lace or lace fabric even in places where there originally is a seam.E.g. by substituting panties' side seam with lace, you get a garment without side seam.

Hint: Pieces of lace can be joined by sewing them together flat with narrow zigzagstitching. First position and tape them on top of each other, motifs matching. Best resultis achieved when the joining stitching is sewed along a motif. Finally, cut excess laceaway with sharp scissors near stitching.

Hint: If you fasten a broad lace at a curved edge of a garment, tape it to its place at theedge which will be longer in the ready garment. Clip the lace from other edge, followingmotifs, as necessary to overlap and flatten lace. Tape. Stitch along taped edge withnarrow zigzag. Stitch over clips through overlapped layers of lace, following motifs, withnarrow zigzag. Remove tapes and cut excess lace with sharp scissors near zigzags.

Hint: Lace edge with corners is done the following way. Position lace in place and fold itat corners. Tape and sew with narrow zigzag along edge and folds. Finally cut excesslace away with sharp scissors.

Shoulder strapsBand for shoulder straps is sold ready−made. Another option is to sew shoulder strapsof garment fabric. This might be necessary if you don't find band matching the color ofyour bra fabric. It is also much cheaper to sew shoulder straps of the lingerie fabricthan to use ready−made shoulder strap band. Use one of the following techniques:

1) Sew a tube strap of garment fabric (spaghetti shoulder straps). Cut fabric strip twiceas wide as the desired finished width plus seam allowance. Fold strip in halflengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along raw edges, stretching the fabric whilesewing. Trim seam allowances to 2−3 mm. Turn the strap right side out with a loopturner or a safety pin.

2) Beautiful, narrow shoulder straps are made of tricot in the following way: Cut 1−2cm wide tricot strip crosswise to the grain. Place strip right side up, stretch tightly tomake it roll and sew over it with wide zigzag, taking care not to catch fabric in stitches.

Hint: This technique can also be applied to sew draw strings for casual garments!

3) Flat 3−fold shoulder straps are sewn in the following way: Cut a fabric strip three

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times as wide as the desired finished width and fold it three times lengthwise, wrongside of the fabric inside. Sew along both edges with picot edge finish (explainedabove). If the strap is narrow you can use overlocking stitches or zigzag at center ofstrap. A twin needle can also be used. Cut potential excess fabric away from undersideof the strap.

Fasten shoulder straps in place with narrow tight zigzag stitching. Fasten shoulderstraps to back of the garment first and then find the right places for them at front ofgarment by trying garment on. A handy way to fasten shoulder straps is to use 3−stitchzigzag: lower the feed dog of your sewing machine down and stitch in place.

Test garmentSew a test garment first. This is necessary for learning the basic constructiontechniques. With a test garment you also ensure that you have taken themeasurements correctly and that you have used correct scaling factors for fabricelasticity when drawing the patterns. If the garment does not fit, change the scalingfactors you have used or take new measurements.

It is possible that you will have to do more than one test garment. This is the price youhave to pay to learn to sew lingerie. After you have learned and practiced yourtechniques, you can sew personal, well−fitting and beautiful lingerie quickly and at afraction of store prices for yourself, for your daughter, for your mother, or for yourfriends. You can also use the sewing techniques you have learned to sew swimmingsuits and action wear.

Hint: If you want to sew a bodysuit, start by sewing a bra with underwires. This will giveyou practice in the most important sewing techniques for elastic garments. After havingsewn bra, sew panties, which are easy and quick to sew. Then sew a waist length bra.By trying waist length bra and panties on, you can check that you have used correctscaling factors: bodysuit is a combination of waist length bra and panties. To be able tosew a comfortable and well−fitting bodysuit, its height measurements must be exact.Pay special attention to vertical scaling factor.

Sewing a bra

BRA WITH UNDERWIRE

The bra and slip in the picture have been sewn with Patternmaker lingerie patterns byThea Botter, the Dutch dealer of PatternMaker.

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Cut the bottom pieces of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is vertical.Cut the top piece of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is horizontal.(Refer to paragraph "Cutting and seam allowances" above. The top pieces of the cupscan also be cut from lace or lace fabric.

Cut center triangle on double fabric. Sew top and bottom edges of center trianglepieces, right sides together. Turn triangles right side out and edgestitch near edges. Ifyou want to fasten a decoration to center triangle, do it now.

Sew dividing seams for cups, right sides together. Topstitch seam on right side.

Finish bottom edges of bra back panels with elastic−trimming technique instructedabove. Stretch elastic only a little. (Back panels should lie flat when ready.)

Sew back panels to cups, rights sides together. Stretch back panels when sewing. Ifyou find it difficult to combine seams that curve in different directions, do as follows:First staystitch edge of back panels 1 cm (= seam allowance) from edges. Clip seamallowances at 1 cm intervals. Now it is much easier to combine the seams.

Finish top edges of back panels and cups continuously with elastic−trimmingtechnique. When doing this, turn seam where back panels meet cups towards inside ofcups.

Fasten center triangle to cup. Stretch center triangle when sewing.

Fold center triangle and one back panel on top of one cup, right sides together.Position tube tape or folded bias tape at bottom edge of cups. Leave 2 cm of tape overboth ends. Sew along inner edge of tube tape. Fold tape to wrong side of cup and sewalong other edge to form a casing for underwires. Sew casing to other cup in the sameway. Insert underwires into casings. To form stoppers in the casings, fold inwards andfasten ends of tape at both ends of casings.

Try the bra on to check that the circumference of the bra is correct and fasten pieces oftwo−row hook−and−eye tape to ends of back panels. If you want to provide shoulderstraps with shoulder strap adjustment clips, do it now. Look at your old bra to see howthis is done. Fasten shoulder straps first at back of bra and then by trying the bra on,find the correct points to fasten them to cups in front.

Another possible order of assembly is as follows: Finish center triangle as above.Finish top and bottom edges of back panels with edge elastic before you combine themto the cups. Finish top edges of cups with edge elastic or lace as well. Fasten centertriangle and back panels only now to cups. In this order of assembly, it is possible touse other material than edge elastic to finish top edges of cups, e.g. lace, embroideryor decoration tape. If you do so, sew transparent elastic at wrong side of top edges ofcups to prevent the edges from getting too loose.

BRA WITHOUT UNDERWIRE

Sew bra without underwire according to instructios of the bra sewing project on this site.

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sew_bra.html

sew_bra.html

WAIST−LENGTH BRA

Cut the bottom pieces of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is vertical.Cut the top piece of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is horizontal.(Refer to paragraph "Cutting and seam allowances" above. The top pieces of the cupscan also be cut from lace or lace fabric.

Sew halves of cups together, right side against right side. Topstitch seams on rightside.

Sew front, side and back seams of body, right sides together, with 2 cm seamallowances. Fold seam allowances towards center at front and at back, and towardsback at sides. Stitch seams from right side of the garment to form 1 cm wide casingsfor ribs/rib tape. Insert ribs/rib tape into the casings. Do not extend ribs/rib tapes overtop and bottom seam allowances. Topstitch rib tapes at both ends to prevent sharpends from tearing the fabric when you move.

Combine bra body piece to cups in front. Keep body piece stretched while sewing.Finish top edges of waist length bra with edge−elastic technique. Start and stopstitching at center front.

Sew tube tape/folded bias tape to wrong side of bottom edges of cups as with bra withunderwire. Insert underwires into casings. To form stoppers in casings, fold inwardsand fasten excess tape at both ends of casings.

Fasten a zipper or another kind of a closure (buttons and buttonholes, hooks and eyes,snaps) to center front. Fold inside seam allowance of bottom edge and edgestitch onright side with 3−stitch zigzag. Fasten shoulder straps first to back of bra and then trythe bra on, to find the correct attachment points in front, and attach.

Sewing pantiesPosition crotch pieces right side against right side and put front crotch between them.Sew. Fold front and back pieces of panties between the crotch pieces and sew crotchseam at front right sides together. Turn right side out.

Finish edges of leg openings with edge−elastic technique. Stretch elastic more in backthan in front. Sew side seams.

Cut a suitable waist elastic. Combine ends of elastic flat. Fasten waist elastic accordingto instructions above.

For more instructions and hints please refer to the Panties' Sewing Project on this site.

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sew_camisole.html

sew_camisole.html

Sewing a bodysuit / a swim suitCut the bottom pieces of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is vertical.Cut the top piece of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is horizontal.(Refer to paragraph "Cutting and seam allowances" above. The top pieces of the cupscan also be cut from lace or lace fabric.

Sew halves of cups together, right sides together. Sew vertical seams of body parts.Set crotch pieces right side against right side and lay back crotch piece of body partbetween them. Sew and turn right side out. Finish edges of leg openings with edgeelastic. Stretch elastic more at back. Combine cups to body piece at front (keep bodypiece stretched while sewing). Finish top edge of body piece and cups with edgeelastic. Start and end at side seam. Sew tube tape/folded bias tape to wrong side ofbottom edges of cups to form casings for underwires as for bra with underwires. Insertunderwires into casings. To form stoppers in casings, fold inwards and fasten excesstape to both ends of casings. Insert underwires into the casings.

Fasten hook−and−eye tape at crotch. Fasten shoulder straps first at back of bodysuitand then try the garment on, to find the correct attachment points in front, and attach.These garments do not have closures in front or in back. If you are making a swimmingsuit, don't sew hook−and−eye tape at crotch.

Hint: If you want to make a body or swim suit without cups, make a pattern bycombining patterns for basic bodice and panties. Use the basic bodice which is drawnwith Lingerie Macro (not the one from the Ladies’ macro kit), because it is without ease.Another possibility is to draw patterns combining patterns for panties and pullover(lpullov.mac) with minimum (= 0 cm) ease. If you use basic bodice, make dividingseams at front and back or reduce waist dart at side seams. With pullover macro youcan make pattern without dividing seams.

Sewing a corsetSew corset vertical seams with 2 cm seam allowances. Only the seam which goes overthe breast is sewn with 1 cm seam allowance. Fasten zipper or other closuremechanism (hooks, buttons) at front. Try the corset on. If you want it to be tighter, takeit in at side seams. Fold and iron seams at front and at back towards center and atsides towards back. Topstitch them to form 1 cm wide casings for ribs/rib tape. Insertribs/rib tape into the casings leaving top and bottom seam allowances free. Topstitchrib tapes at both ends to prevent sharp ends from tearing fabric when you move.

Finish top and bottom edges of corset with lace or embroidery. Make shoulder strapsusing corset fabric. Fasten them to top edge of corset. Fasten garters to corners offront bottom if you want to.

Hint: To make your corset adjustable, sew it with a back seam and fasten button looptape and draw strings into back seam. Draw string can be made from tricot with one ofthe shoulder strap techniques above.

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Designing bra cupsPatterns for bra cups can be designed in many ways. You can make different designsby moving dividing seams of cups to different places. Instead of sewing cups withhorizontal seams, you can sew vertical seams. The only restriction is that the dividingseam has to go through the bust apex. There is a notch mark at this point in basicpatterns for bra.

A bra with vertical dividing seams does not sit as well as a bra with horizontal dividingseams. In the case of horizontal dividing seams it it possible to cut the cup pieces indifferent directions with respect to the elasticity of the fabric. (Refer to paragraph"Cutting and seam allowances" above).

The top pieces of the cups can also be cut of lace or lace fabric. If you divide the cupsto more than two pieces, try to do it so that the pieces corresponding to the bottompiece of the basic cup can be cut with a vertical elasticity of the fabric.

Sewing a half slip using basic skirt macroSew half slip of elastic lingerie fabric. Use Ladies’ skirt macro (lskirt.mac) to producepatterns for it. Use skirt front piece as pattern for front and back piece. Omit darts. Sewside seams, fasten waist elastic and hem lace with above instructions.

Sewing under pants with legs using basic pants' macro

Use basic pants macro lpants.mac. Give circumference of cuffs a suitable value for thispurpose (24−28 cm). Mirror front or back piece and position pattern pieces side by sideat side seams as illustrated in the picture. Reduce front and back by an amount equalto the darts and side curve (take this out of the front and back center seams) and drawnew pattern along existing points.

Reduce patterns according to elasticity of the fabric. Use PatternMaker command Edit− Resize to shrink the entire pattern. In the illustration, a horizontal scaling factor of 0.7and a vertical scaling factor of 0.9 have been used. These factors would be used for afabric that stretches 30% horizontally and 10% vertically. Shorten panties to suit yourpurposes.

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This pattern can also be used for leggings or bike shorts.

Cut waist with seam allowance equal to the width of waist elastic and cuffs with 5 cmseam allowance. Sew front center and back center seams, right sides together. Sewcrotch seam from cuff to cuff. Fasten waist elastic according to instructions above. Foldcuff seam allowances inside and topstitch from right side with twin needle at distance of3 cm from picot edge. Cut excess fabric away from wrong side of the cuffs.

Sewing a full slip or acamisole using corsetpattern

Add ease to corset front and back pieces, 1.5 to 2 cm per piece, leaving space atcenter of the pieces as illustrated in picture. Cut front side panels from breast apex toside seam (use Edit − Cut command) and rotate breast dart closed (use Edit − Rotate).Draw new patterns according to picture: raise front bust corner 5 cm and slope sideseams so as to leave 2 cm extra ease at front and back hip. Continue to the desiredlength. Make bottom corners round.

The amount of ease needed depends on the fabric used. If the garment is too loose,take it in at side seams or draw new patterns with less ease at center of the pieces.

Sew side seams. Finish top edge with one of the edge finishing techniques above.Fasten lace appliqués or embroidery if desired. Make and fasten shoulder straps.Fasten lace at hem according to above instructions.

For more instructions and hints please refer to the Camisole Sewing Project on this site.

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sew_camisole.html

sew_camisole.html

Sewing a teddy usingpatterns for corset andpanties

Draw patterns for a teddy using patterns for corset and panties. Top part of teddy issame as top part of full slip. Add vertical ease of 3 cm at waist. Position panties' patternat this distance from waist. Cut front and back pieces of panties vertically and positionthe pieces matching front/back center and side seams. Leg side seam starts fromupper hip level (abdomen).

Add a seam at waist by cutting this piece in two. Do not forget to add seam allowanceat waist seam.

Sew front darts of top piece. Sew side seams of top and bottom pieces. Combine top tobottom at waist. Sew transparent elastic into the waist seam. Finish top edge andedges of leg openings with one of the edge finishing techniques above.

Finish front and back crotch seams with bias tape or satin tape and fasten hooks orsnaps in it, or use hook−and−eye tape. Fasten lace appliqués or embroidery if desired.Make and fasten shoulder straps.

RECOMMENDED READINGThe following books can be recommended as excellent sewing books for lingerie.Sewing techniques are explained carefully with text and color photos. The books alsogive a lot of ideas for making and decorating lingerie.

• Kerstin Martensson: Sewing Lingerie (Kwik−Sew's) ISBN 0−913212−14−8

• Kerstin Martensson: Swim & action wear (Kwik−Sew's) ISBN 0−913212−18−0

• Singer Sewing Reference Library: Sewing Lingerie ISBN 0−86537−261−2

If you cannot find these books at your local bookstore, you can order them from eitherof these exellent Internet book stores :

• http://www.amazon.com (USA) or• http://www.bookshop.co.uk (UK)

Fabrics and accessoriesYou can get lingerie fabrics and accessories through Internet , here you have acouple of addresses:

Spandex House

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http://amazon.com

http://amazon.com

http://www.bookshop.co.uk

http://www.bookshop.co.uk

http://www.spandexhouse.com/


SewSassyClotildeNancy's NotionsFabric.com


www.leenas.com



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http://www.clotilde.com

http://www.nancysnotions.com


http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/index.html


index.html

sew_general.html

sew_general.html

sew_lady.html

sew_lingerie.html

sew_maternity.html

sew_maternity.html

sew_men.html

sew_child.html

sew_child.html



Women's pantiesFor sewing instructions for PatternMaker macro collection for women's lingerie, clickhere .

If you do not have the patternsIf you do not have patterns for panties to your own measurements or do not ownPatternMaker women's lingerie macro collection , miniature patterns in S, M, L andXL sizes are provided here.

Click here to see and print the miniature patterns.

Copy and resize the patterns to pattern paper. Please note the grid size of 5X5 cm(2X2").

Important! The patters include seam allowances of 0,7cm(1/4"). Waist allowance is 4 cm ( 1.5" ).

Important! Use elastic fabric to the panties sewn with these patterns.

Body measurements used in thepatterns

Hip circumference

S 91 cm 36"

M 101 cm 40"

L 112 cm 44"

XL 122 cm 48"

Using this link you can download the patterns in full size as a PatternMaker file . Withyour PatternMaker you can print the patterns in full size and erase the sizes you do notneed.

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's panties

sew_lingerie.html

sew_lingerie.html

macros_lingerie.gif

macros_lingerie.gif

digit_housut.gif

digit_housut.gif

panties SMLXL.zip

panties SMLXL.zip

If you do not have any PatternMaker program, you can download the freeware versionfree of charge from the website of PatternMaker Software . With the free programversion you can print the patterns.

If you have PatternMaker Home , you can change the patterns using PatternMakerCAD−tools.

General sewing instructions for lingerie

Seams

Sew the seams with medium zigzag stitch and medium stitch length. The seams donot need to be overlocked, if you do not want to, because lingerie jersey does not ravel.If you own a serger , sew seams with it.

Seam allowances

Important! Please note that the miniature patterns include seam allowances of0,7cm (1/4"). Waist allowance is 4 cm ( 1.5" ). These seam allowances are also in thepatterns dowloaded from this page as a PatternMaker file.

When cutting the garment pieces add a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance . After havingsewn the seams trim them to their half width.

Waist

If you use stretch lace to finish the waist of the panties, add to the waist of thepanties seam allowance equal to the width of the lace. If you use elastic to finish thewaist , add a seam allowance equal to double width of the elastic + seam allowance.The best width for waist elastic is 1.5−3 cm (1/2" − 1").

Cut the crotch piece of the panties in two, one from natural fiber fabric, e.g. fromcotton knit. It will be on the inside of the panties and feels much better against yourbody than fabrics made of synthetic fibers.

1. Applyinglace inserts

Plan the placement of the lace inserts on the pants front. Experiment the best positionof lace motifs. If you use symmetrical lace inserts, place also the motifs symmetrically.Tape lace in place and stitch along edges through tape with narrow zigzag. Removetape. Cut away fabric under the lace.

Note! Because you are using stretchy fabric to the panties also the laces have to bestretchy. That way the lace will behave in the same way as the fabric when the pantiesare worn.

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http://www.patternmaker.com

http://www.patternmaker.com

2. Sewing the crotchSandwich the front piece of the panties between the crotch pieces right sides togetherand sew with narrow zigzag through the three fabric layers. ( Picture 1 ) Trim seamallowance close to stitches. Roll the front and the back pieces of the panties inside thecrotch pieces as in the photos and sew the back seam of the crotch through all layers

Trim seam allowances and turn the crotch right side out.

3. Basting elastics to the leg openingsMachine baste the elastics to the wrong side of the leg openings. Stretch the elasticlightly as you sew. Special pressing feet can be bought for applying elastic togarments.

You'll soon learn, however, tostretch the elasticappropriately even without aspecial pressing foot. Theaim is not to stretch theelastic too taut. The legopenings have been draftedaccording to yourmeasurements. Without anedge elastic the leg openingswould, however, flutterwithout control.

Sew a couple of tests to find out how much to stretch the elastic to get the desiredamount of gathering. Baste the elastic close to edge to wrong side of a piece of fabric.Turn the fabric and the elastic once in and stitch on top of it on right side with3−stitch zigzag . Examine the amount of gathering. In the photo to the left there is toomuch gathering in the first half of the test (1) , in the second half of the test (2) theamount of the gathering is good. The need to stretch the elastic depends of thestretchability of the elastic you are using.

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Compare the test result with ready−made lingerie and try toachieve a similar result. But make the comparison only afteryou have sewn the 3−stitch zigzag on the elastic on right sideof the fabric and trimmed away the excess seam allowance onwrong side of the fabric.

Note! It is important that the elastics are equally long in both leg openings .Therefore, after having basted the elastic to the first leg opening, measure the length ofthe elastic and cut an equally long elastic for the other leg opening.

An alternative is to cut two pieces of elastic longenough to feel good when fitted around the subjectsthigh at the place where the panties leg opening willbe and to pin the elastics to the leg openings withequal intervals before basting them to their places.

When sewing the sample garment I have used No HandsElastic Wizard which I have ordered from Clotilde's WebShop where it costs US$ 28. If you want to get there, pleaseclick here .

4. Sewing side seamsSew the side seams of the panties and if needed, trim the seam allowances.

5. Finishing the leg openingsTurn the seam allowances of the leg openings with elastics to the wrong side of thegarment and sew on top of the elastics on the right side with 3−stitch zigzag. Stretchlightly when sewing but don't pull. Trim away the excess seam allowance on the wrongside of the garment.

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http://www.clotilde.com/cl/product_group.asp?listtype=search&searchterm=elastic&dept_name=Search+Result%3A+elastic&g_id=107483

http://www.clotilde.com/cl/product_group.asp?listtype=search&searchterm=elastic&dept_name=Search+Result%3A+elastic&g_id=107483

You do not need to remove thebasting stitches from the legopenings. They will break whenyou wear the panties and willvanish by themselves.

6. Applying stretchy lace to the waistIn the sample garment stretchy lace has been used to finish the waist. Baste it rightside up on right side of the garment waist. Match the scalloped edge to the raw edge ofthe panties waist (you do remember that you have cut to the panties waist a seamallowance corresponding to the width of the stretchy lace).

Baste along the inner edge of the lace around the waist.Overlap lace ends leaving excess length. Stretch the lacewhen basting. Using narrow zigzag stitch across the inneredge of the lace from right side through all layers. Trim awayexcess allowance on the wrong side of the garment.

Using narrow zigzag stitch through the overlapped layers of lace. Follow motif ifpossible. Trim away excess lace from both sides of the garment.

If you use waist elastic to finish the waist, baste it to thewrong side of the waist. Match the top edge of the elastic tothe raw edge of the panties waist. Leave seam allowanceover. Stretch when basting. Fold the elastic to the wrong sideof the garment. Sew on the right side of the garment throughthe inner edge of the elastic with 3−stitch zigzag. Trim awayexcess fabric on the wrong side of the garment.

More design ideas for panties

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Applying lace to edge of garment

You can cut one or more motifs from lace fabric to decorate the edges of the garmentas in the photos below. First finish the edge with elastic. Then tape the lace motif ontop of the edge and sew with narrow zigzag along the edges of the lace motif. Finally,trim away fabric (and the edge elastic) under the lace motif on the wrong side.

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Applying lace in the middle of the garment

You can apply a lace appliqué also in the middle of the garment. Tape it on the fabric,zigzag along the edges and trim away fabric under the lace on the wrong side of thegarment.

Hint: Consider applying lace appliqués also to other garments than lingerie garments,e.g. to front, collar or cuff of a blouse.

Applying lace on top of a seam

You can even apply lace on top of a seam in which case you can replace the seamwith lace. Sew the seam and, if necessary overlock it. Tape the lace on top of theseam, zigzag along edges and trim away fabric (inclusive seam) under the lace on thewrong side.

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Apply lace insert at hem

Apply lace on top of the hem seam. Fold hem allowanceto the wrong side of the garment. Baste. Tape lace on topof the basted edge. Using narrow zigzag sew along theedges of the lace. Trim away fabric under the lace on thewrong side of the garment.

See also ...There also is a PatternMaker sewing project for a matching camisole.

You'll get instructions of how to draft the patterns using the basic bodice patterns as astarting point. Detailed sewing instructions with photos will be provided.

Click here or use the link at the top of the page.

A couple of Internet addressesIf you have difficulties in getting fabrics and notions for lingerie, please refer to thefollowing websites

Spandex HouseSewSassyFull Sassy Pattern Boutique ClotildeNancy's NotionsFabric.com


www.leenas.com


General sewing instructions Ladies' garments Ladies'_lingerie Maternity and nursing garments Men's garments Children's garments

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Bra without underwire

Following the instructions in this sewing project you sew bra without underwire. Thiskind of a bra can be nearly as tight−fitting as a bra with underwire, but it is much easierto sew. Furthermore, you do not need to get the underwires which might be difficult.

PatternsThe patterns for a bra without underwire can be drafted with the measurements of thebasic sloper and a couple of additional measurements which are easy to take. For brawith underwire much more measurements are needed and they are not always veryeasy to take.

If you do not have bra patterns nor do you own thePatternMaker lingerie macro collection, you can orderpersonal bra patterns at only US$ 10. If you want toorder the patterns, please contact me by email. Thepatterns will be delivered to you as PatternMaker filesby email. You can print the patterns with PatternMaker− if you do not own it you can get the free demoversion from this site.

If you have PatternMaker Home or one of the other CAD versions of the program, youcan use the patterns just like you would use any other PatternMaker patterns. You canalter them, join them to other PatternMaker patterns etc. You could − for example − jointhe bra patterns to the patterns of panties to get patterns for a bodysuit (more aboutthis below).

You get the cups in two versions, horizontal and vertical cut. You can later on makenew cup designs using these basic patterns. To read more about the cup designs,please refer to the sewing instructions page for lingerie on this site.

PatternMaker Sewing projects Bra without underwire

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NotionsAs closures you can in stead of the hook−and−eye tape use zipper, buttons, Velcro orplastic closures sold for swimwear bikini tops. The closures can be applied to the backor to the front of the bra according to your wishes.

As fabric you can use normal lingerie tricot orjersey. I suggest you use elastic fabric. Part ofthe cup can be sewn of stretchy lace or lacefabric. You can apply decorations, such as abow, flower or lace appliqués. For ideas refer tothe sewing projects for camisole and panties onthis site. To get a firm band, the midriff partshould always be sewn of double fabric.

Note! To be able to sew a test garment, always buy extra fabric. The notions can bedetached from the test garment and used for the final garment.

Furthermore you need lingerie edge elastic. When you buy it, check that it restoresthe original length after stretching it. There are a lot of bad quality elastic available.Consider an alternative to use elastic of contrasting color, that might be the onlydecoration needed for your bra. You can also use normal narrow elastic and sew itunder the edge of the garment. If you use lace or lace fabric for some parts of the bra,it usually is advisable to strengthen its edge with transparent elastic (Framilon). Readmore about edge elastics and the techniques to attaching them in the sewinginstructions for lingerie on this site.

If you want to sew padded bra choose the horizontal cutting option for the cup andsew the bottom half of the cup of double fabric. You can the bottom of the cup or theentire cup and you can add padding between the lining and the bra, if you want to. Thesimpliest way of making padded bra is to cut the cups from padded fabric.

Ready made band is sold for shoulder straps. You can also make the shoulder strapsyourself. For ideas and sewing techniques, please refer to the sewing instructions forlingerie on this site.

Hint: Using two spaghetti shoulder straps for both sides of the bra may look nice. Toget instructions of how to sew spaghetti shoulder straps, please refer to the sewingproject for camisole and the sewing instructions for lingerie on this site. You can alsosew a fabric tube and insert elastic into it. Stretch the elastic inside the tube andtopstitch the tube with 3 stitch or narrow, medium long zigzag e.g. from the distance ofthe presser foot from both edges.

Always sew a test garmentSewing bra is much easier than you ever have thought.Nevertheless, always sew a test garment first. It isnecessary to check the fitting of the patterns and the scalingfactors used to reduce the patterns in size. If you are notused to sew lingerie, sewing a test garment also lets youexercise the sewing techniques.

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If the test garment does not fit well, check which pattern pieces have to be changedand how much. Be critical. The aim is to get Very Good Bra Patterns for you to be usedin many sewing projects. In the picture to the left you see a test garment. Even if thebra feels all right when worn by the subject and could be used as such, the fitting is notoptimal and the patterns need to be changed accordingly.

After having got good bra patterns for your figure you will be able to sew luxurious brawith perfect fit in a couple of hours. After you have learned the sewing techniques itmay be worth while investing in more expensive fabrics and laces. And once you haveused bra sewn to your own measurements, you never again want to wear anythingelse. This is especially true with women who have a prominent bust and who needextra support for it but find it difficult to get well−fitting ready made bra.

CuttingIf you choose the horizontal cut option for the cups, cut the bottom pieces so that thedirection of stretch of the fabric is horizontal. Cut the top piece of the cup so that thedirection of stretch of the fabric is vertical. The top pieces of the cups can also be cutfrom lace or lace fabric. If you make the entire cup of lace, consider lining it with elasticgauze sold for this purpose (e.g. under trade mark Spandex).

Cut the midriff pieces in two copies of elastic fabric.

SewingSew the seams with narrow (1−1.5 mm), medium long (2−3 mm) zigzag or serger. Trimseam allowances near stitches if necessary. Use 3 stitch zigzag or narrow (1−1,5 mm),medium long (2−3 mm) zigzag to topstitch.

Always machine baste the seams first. After you see that the seam is all right you canfinish it with zigzag. It is almost impossible to unravel zigzag neatly. You do not need tounravel the machine basting stitches, they will break when you use the garment andwear away.

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Sew the midriff pieces together atbottom edge (picture 1A) and atfront center top edge (picture 1B),right side against right side. Turnthe piece right side out andtopstitch with 3−stitch zigzag alongthese edges.

Sew dividing seam of cups (picture 1C) and topstitch. Be careful not to stretch theseams when topstitching. Loosen the pressure of the presser foot a bit if necessary.

If you apply bones to the bra band, sew casings for them to the midriff piece accordingto markings on the patterns − or to places where you want to have them. You can drawguiding lines to the wrong side of the bra band with pencil (picture 2A). The marks willvanish when the bra is washed for the first time.

You can buy webbed plastic with caps called Rigilene for the boning purpose (picture2B).

The boning must end 1/2" to 3/4" fromeach end of the finished seams. (picture2C). Topstitch Rigilene with 3 stitchzigzag on the right side of the garment.Bartack at both ends to make sure thatthe band does not move in the casingwhen the garment is worn. The ends ofRigilene tape are very sharp and canbreak the fabric. Caps are thereforerecommended.

Finish top edges of cups with edge elastics from the CF end of thecup dividing seam (if horizontal cutting) or from the mark in thepattern (if vertical cutting) to the place where shoulder straps arefastened (marked in the patterns) (picture 3A). For applying edgeelastic please refer to the sewing instructions for lingerie on thissite.

Fasten cups to midriff piece (picture 3B), matching notches on cup seams to midriffpiece. Stretch midriff piece when sewing. If you want the seam to be very neat you cancover it with bias tape. If you want to do that, sew the unfolded bias tape into the seammatching raw edges, trim seam allowance, fold bias tape on top of the seam and

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edgestitch along other edge (folded). Sew very carefully, the stitch line must stay atsame distance from and parallel to the cup seam (picture to the right).

Finish bottom edges of back panels with edge elastics. Sew back panels to cup/midriffpart (picture 3C) and finish seam allowances with bias tape if you want to.

Finally, finish the top edges of the back panels (leaving the shoulder straps betweenthe elastic and the back panel) and the cups top edges not yet finished with edgeelastic (picture 3D). Leave excess elastic at the cup corners.

Fasten hook−and−eye tape or other kind of closures to the ends of the back panels(picture 4). Put the bra on and check the correct length of the shoulder straps bypinning them to their places at the top edges of the cups. Fasten shoulder straps to thecups with two horizontal stitch lines. Fold the excess elastic you left at the cup cornersunder the shoulder straps.

Hint: When you are sewing a test garment, sew the hook−and−eye tape and theshoulder straps lightly to their places with normal sewing machine stitches and use thebra for a couple of days. After you have noticed that the bra feels comfortable,strengthen the fastening with zigzag. If you find it necessary to change the length or theplace of the shoulder straps or the length of the bra band, you can still do it easily.Hook−and−eye tape and ready made shoulder straps also are too expensive to bethrown away with a useless test garment.

Hint: Shoulder straps may stretch in use and therefore I recommend that you applyadjusting mechanism to the shoulder straps (picture 5). Look at your old bra to seehow the mechanism is applied to the shoulder strap. The easiest way to fasten therings to the cups is to fold the extra elastic left at the bra top edge to the wrong sideand put the ring in between. Fasten the elastic to the cup with two horizontal stitch lines.

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Other ideas to use bra patterns

Lengthen the bra band to waist and join the patterns to the patterns of panties. You'llget patterns for a bodysuit. If you do not have the pant patterns you can use theminiature patterns included in the panties' sewing project on this site or order themfrom me. Make a hook−and−eye fastening construction at the crotch of the pants − thatway you do not need to undress the entire bodysuit when you pop in the ladies' room.

Sew a waist length bra of e.g. denim and use it under a jacket as a summer top. Orsew it of festive fabric and use it with a long or a short evening skirt, maybe with abolero.

Lingerie fabrics and notions from the InternetIf you have difficulties in getting fabrics and notions for lingerie, please refer to thefollowing websites

Spandex HouseSewSassyClotildeNancy's NotionsFabric.com

From SewSassy you can buy bra underwire cut to length according to you needs .They also sell a suberb Microfiber fabric for lingerie at a price of US$ 5.98 per yd.This 4−way stretch fabric feels and looks like pre−war silk stockings and ideal for homesewn lingerie. There are 4 colors available: chestnut brown, soft wine. parchment andplum. One of them is beige (parchment), others are quite dark.


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Women's Camisole

PatternsDraft patterns for camisole using women's basic bodice as basis. Choose the dartoption to side seam.

These patterns can only be used for camisoles sewn of elastic fabrics. If you aregoing to sew the camisole of non−elastic fabric, use ladies' blouse macro where youcan choose among three ease categories.

Seams

Sew the seams with medium zigzag stitch and medium stitch length. The seams donot need to be overlocked, if you do not want to, because lingerie jersey does not ravel.If you own a serger , sew seams with it.

Seam allowancesWhen cutting the garment pieces add a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance . After havingsewn the seams trim them to their half width.

EdgingsTop edge of camisole: Cut 5 cm (2") wide binding strip from knit fabric crosswisegrain. Machine baste the strip to the right side of the of the garment right sides

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's Camisole

together. Match raw edges. Sew through shoulder straps on back. Start at one frontcorner and stop at the other front corner. Leave some extra length at the beginning andthe end of the binding.

Fold binding over the edge to the wrong side of the garment. Sew with 3−step zigzagon the right side along the edge. Trim away excess fabric on the wrong side of theedge. Fold excess length of the binding at the front corners to the wrong side of thegarment.

Hem: You can finish the hem the same way you finished the top edges. Stretch bindingless than at top. Overlap the binding on one side seam.

Another technique: A very neat edge binding is sewn in the following way. Fold a 2"wide binding strip lengthwise into two wrong side in and sew it to the wrong side of thegarment's edge, raw edges matching. Use 1/2" wide seam allowance. Trim seamallowance. Fold binding around the edge to the right side of the garment along stitchline and edgestitch along the folded edge. Refer to the drawing below.

If you want to binding to reduce the edge, stretch the binding when applying it. If thebinding must stretch a lot, you can edtestitch it with 3−stitch zigzag. You can sew theedgestitching entirely on the binding or only half of it on the binding.

If the fabric used to the edge binding is not elastic enough, sew transparentelastic into the seam.

Hint: You can use contrasting colour fabric to the binding strip.

There are instructions of how to sew a neat bound edging also in the general sewinginstructions.

Lace decorationsUse narrow zigzag stitches and shorter than medium stitch length when sewinglaces and lace appliqués to lingerie. Use Magic transparent tape to hold the lace orthe appliqués on the fabric, stitch close to the edges of the lace and finally trim awayfabric on the wrong side of the garment under the lace or the appliqué. Apply lace to agarment piece before sewing it to another garment piece.

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Applying lace to corners

When applying lace to corners of lingerie garments fold the lace according to picture.Place lace right side up on the right side of the garment. Match the scalloped edge ofthe lace to the raw edge of the garment.

Use pins in corners to shape the lace. Using narrow zigzag stitches sew along theinner edge of the lace through tape. Trim away the fabric under the lace on the wrongside of the garment. Finally, stitch across the corners through layers of lace. Removetape. Trim away excess lace in the corners.

Applying lace to curves

Place the lace on the fabric right sides facing. Match the scalloped edge of the lace tothe raw edge of the garment.

Make clips to the lace from the inner edge, following motifs if possible. Overlap andflatten the lace. Tape or pin to place.

Using narrow zigzag and stitch along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Trimaway the fabric under the lace. Zigzag through overlapped layers of lace, follow motifsif possible. Remove tape. Trim away excess lace close to stitches.

Mittered slit opening

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Place the lace wrong side up on the right side of the garment. Fold it according topicture. Use pins in corners to shape the lace. Using narrow zigzag stitches sew alongthe inner edge of the lace through tape. Remove tape.

Trim away the fabric under the lace on the wrong side of the garment. Trim awayexcess lace in the corner on the wrong side. If you want to, continue using lace at thehem, refer to the picture.

Sewing instructions for camisole

1. Apply lace to top edge of front piece

Fold front piece of the camisole along CF line. Fold lace in half right sides together andplace on the CF−line of the top edge of the front piece. Match scalloped edges of thelace to raw edges of camisole. Cut lace along CF line leaving 0.7 cm (1/4") seamallowance. Using narrow zigzag sew the CF seam of the lace.

Another technique is illustrated in the drawing above.

Unfold front piece and lace. Tape lace on the top edge of thegarment matching scalloped edge of lace to raw edge of camisole.Sew along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Remove tape.Cut away fabric under the lace near stitches.

2. Sew bust darts

Sew bust darts with zigzag or serger. Trim seam allowances near stitches.

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3. Sew side seams

Sew side seams of the garment. Trim seam allowances. Fold hem allowance to thewrong side of the garment and sew from right side with 3−stitch zigzag and trim seamallowance.

4. Sew shoulder straps

Cut a fabric strip twice as wide as you want the shoulder strap to be + seam allowance.Fold the strip in half lengthwise wrong side up and sew the seam with narrow zigzag orserger. Trim seam allowance if necessary near stitches.

The easiest way to turn the tube is to use an ordinary hair pin. Cut a small hole on foldabout 1.5 cm (1/4") from one end. Insert the pin through the hole and into the tube as inthe picture. Guide the hair pin through the strap to the other end. Trim the end whereyou cut the hole.

5. Finish top edges

Remove seam allowance from the top edges of the front and the back piece of thecamisole.

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Pin shoulder straps to their places on the back piece.

Cut 5 cm (2") wide binding strip from knit fabric crosswise grain. Machine baste thestrip to the right side of the of the garment right sides together. Match raw edges. Sewthrough shoulder straps on back. Start at one front corner and stop at the other frontcorner. Leave some extra length at the beginning and the end of the binding.

Fold binding over the edge to the wrong side of the garment. Sew with 3−step zigzagon the right side along the edge. Trim away excess fabric on the wrong side of theedge. Fold excess length of the binding at the front corners to the wrong side of thegarment.

6. Attach shoulder straps to front corners

Pin the shoulder straps to the wrong side of the front corners under the folded edgebinding and try the camisole on. Adjust the length if necessary. Sew two vertical rowsof narrow zigzag stitches across the right side of the the front corners through thestraps. Trim excess shoulder straps if necessary.

6. Sew hem

Sew binding to the hem the same way you finished the top edges. Stretch bindinglightly when sewing. Overlap the binding on one side seam.

7. Sew slits

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Sew mittered slits with lace to bottom of side seams. Fold lace according to the photos,tape in place and sew with narrow zigzag along the inner edge of the lace. Leave extralength for the lace hem allowance. Trim away fabric under the lace and extra lace oncorners. Fold lace seam allowance to the wrong side and zigzag on right side.

Another design ideaCut one or more motifs of lace fabric to decorate the edges of the garment as in theother camisole. First finish the edge with a binding strip. Then tape the lace motif ontop of the edge and sew with narrow zigzag along the inner edges of the lace motif.Finally, trim away fabric (and the edge binding) under the lace motif on the wrong side.

Shape the top edge of the camisole if necessary to match the shape of the lace.

Apply a lace motif to the hem, too, like in the sample garment.

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If the lace is very soft or slack, sew clear elastic to the wrong side of the top edge of thelace. First machine baste it to the wrong side of the lace. Stretch the elastic whenbasing. Then zigzag on the right side on the elastic.

If the binding fabric is not elastic enough, you can apply invisible elastic in the bindingseam.

A couple of Internet addressesIf you have difficulties in getting fabrics and notions for lingerie, please refer to thefollowing websites

Spandex HouseSewSassyClotildeNancy's NotionsFabric.com

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www.leenas.com



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Sewing pajamasHere you get instructions of how this garment was designed and sewn. I used tricot asthe fabric but the garment has enough ease to be sewn of non−elastic fabric as well. Ofcourse, this model could also can be used as a T−shirt−shorts−combination, if youwant to.

The design of this garment is a very simple one. I only used two−color fabrics strips tofinish the neck opening, sleeve ends and leg ends. For the sleeves I used fabric ofcontrasting color.

Which patterns to use?Use the women's basic macros for pants and shirt. Make thealterations to the patterns according to the picture. Thealterations can be done manually after you have printed thepatterns or using PM editing tools before printing, whichevermethod you feel more comfortable.

The pants were cut to knee length and the legs made 4 cm (1.6") wider on both sidesof the knee. At the crotch height the legs were made 3 cm (1.2") wider at side seams.The waistband for an elastic waist construction was cut to the top edge of the pants.Leave darts, pockets and zipper facing off.

For the top part of the pajamas the shirt macro was used. The neck opening was cut toV−shape, refer to the picture. The button extension was left off.

Alternatively you can use the jacket or the dress and the pants macros included in thewomen's second macro collection (picture below). The L2−jacket and the L2−dressmacros have (among other things) options for V−shape neck and dropped sleeve. Imade the top part rather long, 40 cm (15.5") from waist to hem because I like to hidemy non−existing waist in long and straight tops. If you use the shirt macro where thelength of the garment cannot be typed in, please check the length and if you want to,make the garment longer or shorter by moving the hem vertices.

Remove the back shoulder dart as in the picture.

The L2−pants.mac has an option for (normal, tight and) wide legs as well as an optionfor elastic waist so the legs of these patterns do not need any widening at the hip andat the waist (picture below). These options are also included in the women'ssupermacro for pants . If you have that macro, you can use it.

PatternMaker Sewing projects Sewing pajamas

SewingThe only decoration in this garment are the neck opening and the hems finished with atwo−colored fabric stripe made from the fabric used for the garment.

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To make the two−colored fabric stripe, I have cut strips from the turquoise fabric inwidth of 5 cm (2") and from the white fabric in width of 3 cm (1.2"). I love to use therotary cutter and mat for this kind of works. It makes it easy to cut strips that are exactlyof the width you want to.

Join the strips to a long continuous strip sewing them together with narrow seamallowances. Iron the seams. Machine−baste these strips together folded lengthwise intwo and the raw edges matching (picture below).

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I found it easier first to iron the wider strip in two and then basting the narrower strip toit folding the narrower strip when basting.

As a result you get a two−colored fabric strip to be used for the finishing of the edges ofthe garment.

After having sewn one shoulder seam sew the two−colored strip to the neck opening.After having done this clip the seam allowance at the neck opening at the V−neckcorner. Sew a small dart at the V−neck corner.

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I used a serger to connect the stripe to the neck opening. If you don't have a serger,sew the strip to the neck opening with a sewing machine using a narrow zigzag−stitchand overlock the seam with wider zigzack. After having fastened the stripe to the neckopening sew the other shoulder seam.

Sew the stripe to the sleeve ends correspondingly and fasten the sleeves to thearmscyes. Sew one sleeve seam and one side seam continuously from sleeve end tohem. Fasten the two−colored stripe to the hem. Then sew the other sleeve seam andside seam.

Fold the seam allowances of all two−colored stripes inside and topstitch the garmentfrom the right side using a double needle (picture below).

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Sew front and back crotch seams and both side seams of the pants. Fasten thetwo−colored stripe to the leg ends and topstitch with double needle from the right sideof the garment. Then sew the inside seams of the legs continuously from one leg endto the other.

Fold in the casing for the elastic at the top of the pants and fasten it with double needleon the right side. Cut away the excess seam allowance from the wrong side (picturebelow). Leave a small opening for threading the elastic. Thread the elastic and closethe opening for the elastic.

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Sewing instructions for men's garmentsCopyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää

Sewing instructions:

MeasurementsMeasuring and fitting are generally simpler for men's wear than for ladies'garments. Body shapes are simpler, fit is looser and there are fewermeasurements. See the measurement chart for the measurements you will usefor the men's macros. We suggest you make a fitting muslin at least whensewing the first jacket or vest. If you don't, you can provide for alterationsafter the garment is complete by adding extra seam allowance.

Ease

We do not include an ease chart for the men's garments because it is usuallynot necessary to make many ease adjustments for men's garments.Remember that the macros automatically add fitting and styling ease.

General Sewing instructionsAll the basic instructions for making and sewing patterns from macros are onthe general sewing instructions page. The instructions on this page containadditional information you need to sew the men's macro set. Pants can besewn according to sewing instructions for ladies' pants.

Sewing a shirt

Iron interfacing on button extension. Fold seam allowance at front edgesinwards 1/2 inch (1 cm) and baste (Picture 1). Fold again with right side offabric inside, along button extension fold lines. Stitch button extensionsacross bottom edges (Picture 2). Turn button extensions out and sew alongfolded seam allowance edge on wrong side of fabric.

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Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons.

If you sew breast pockets to the shirt, iron interfacing to breast pockets. Foldseam allowances inwards and topstitch pocket mouth. Sew pocket in place,edgestitching it simultaneously.

Fold the back piece pleat according to marks and baste. Place yoke piecesright side against right side and sandwich the back piece between the yokepieces (Picture 3) . Sew through all thicknesses. Open the seam and iron.

Fold the back piece between the yoke pieces. Then fold the front piecesbetween the yoke pieces, wrong sides of the yoke pieces out (Picture 4). (It isa bit tight, but you can manage). Sew along the front shoulder edges of theyoke through all thicknesses. Turn the pieces to their right position and iron.Edgestitch the seams.

Join sleeves to shell, right sides together (Picture 5). Overlock and iron theseam allowances towards the shell. Edgestitch the seams.

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Sew sleeve seam and side seam continuously from sleeve cuff to shell hem(Picture 6) . Overlock and iron.

Use general instructions to attach collar and sleeve cuffs. Fold hemallowance twice and sew. Sew buttonholes. Sew buttons on button extensionand on collar stand.

SEWING A JACKETWhen cutting the pieces, do not add seam allowance to pocket mouth.

Iron interfacing to jacket's front facing and back neck. Interfacing is alsoironed to under collar and pocket welts or flaps. If you want the jacket to bevery "stiff," iron interfacing to jacket's front piece as well. It is also good to ironinterfacing to jacket's hem − set it in just beyond the hem seam allowance.

Only vertical body seams need to be overlocked. Collar, shoulder and sleeveseams do not need to be overlocked. Press all seams after sewing andoverlocking them.

Add extra width for a pleat to the back lining piece (Picture 1).

Sew front waist dart (Picture 2a). Stitch pocket mouth edges together withtemporary zigzag stitches (Picture 2b). To strengthen pocket mouth, ironinterfacing to its wrong side (Picture 2c). Do the same with the section ofpocket mouth on the side panel (Picture 2d). Sew front piece to side panel,

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right sides of material together.

How to sew pockets is instructed in the general sewing instructions . The kindof pocket openings to use, and exactly where to place them, are stylingdecisions for you to make. If you sew a patch pocket at hip, place it so that itcovers the zigzagged pocket mouth. Attach welt, buttonhole or flap pocketonto zigzagged pocket mouth .

Sew back pieces to front/side piece and back seam, right side against right side.

The sleeves come in two pieces, top and bottom. Place bottom piece on top of uppersleeve, right side against right side, and sew from corner of sleeve cap to where buttonplacket begins (Picture 3a). Continue from there basting along the button placket foldline (Picture 3b). Then sew around button placket (Picture 3c). Press button placketunder upper sleeve and remove basting. Fold inside and press seam allowance atcuff. Check that length of sleeves is correct, then sew buttons on button placket. Sewthem through all layers of fabric. Buttonholes are optional.

Easestitch sleeve cap, allowing a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) (Picture 3d−e ).Sew front seam of sleeves. Turn sleeves right side out and jacket wrong side out. Place sleeves inside jacket (right side against right side) so that sleeves' shouldermarks match with jacket shoulder seams. Insert sleeves by sewing along easestiches Adjust ease by pulling on the stitching in the ease cap. Sew sleeve cap to jacket. Ifthere tends to be too much ease at sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease thanothers do), you can adjust this by placing sleeves lower at armpit. There should be asmuch ease as possible, but no wrinkles at cap seams, when done.

HINT: In the advanced tutorial I give instructions of how to use a facing in sleeve capwhich helps to get nicely formed sleeve heads.. Click here .

When cutting collar pieces, cut upper collar about 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) bigger at outeredges. This forces the collar to turn down to its correct position when it is done. Place under collar on upper collar, right side against right side, and sew along edgesPicture 4). Trim seam allowances and cut corners before turning the collar right sideout. Turn collar right side out and press. Edgestitch.

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Place collar on jacket neckline, with right side of under collar piece against jacket's rightside. Sew from shoulder (Picture 5a) to lapel corner (Picture 5b). Cut jacket's neckseam allowance at corner (Picture 5c).

Now turn jacket's lapel under the collar and sew from lapel corner to lapel notchmark (Picture c−d). After having sewn both ends of collar to lapels, attach the rest ofthe collar to jacket's back neck. If you have difficulties in this (collar will be a bit longerthan neck), first Easestich jacket neck at distance of normal seam allowance.

The entire lining is assembled separately as follows, then attached to the rest of thejacket as a unit. Sew lining's back seam at edge. Baste extra width along back centerseam to make a soft pleat. Iron the pleat, then remove the basted stitches.

Sew front pieces of lining to side panels and front/side pieces to back piece. Fold hemof lining in twice and sew. The lining should be an inch or so (about 2 cm) shorterthan the jacket when done. attach jacket's front facing to lining's front edges, right sideagainst right side. Sew shoulder seams. Attach sleeves to lining as you did withjacket shell.

To join jacket and lining, place the lining on top of the jacket with right side against rightside. Leave collar in between and upside down. Sew a continuous seam as follows:across hem of front facing, along one front edge, around neck to other front edge andfinally across other front facing. Leave jacket hem open. Snip seam allowance atstarting point of lapels and at neck seam at about 1 inch (2 cm) intervals. Cut cornersdiagonally (including at front of hem) so that you will be able to turn it right side out.. Turn lining inside jacket. Open seams well and press. Edgestitch. Attach lining tosleeve ends.

Sew hem with invisible stitches. Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons. Do the finalpressing.

SEWING VEST

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The following uses a rare and ingeniousway of lining a vest, which we have beenvery pleased with. The same method canbe used for lining ladies' and children'svests.

Vests are made with both a lining and a shell. For vests that are worn with a jacket,both shell and lining in back are usually made of lining material. Iron interfacing to frontfacing and to armscye facings.

Zigzag armscye facings onto linings, wrong side of facings against right side of thelining (Picture 3a).

Sew darts closed on front shell (Picture 1) and lining. Sew front facing to front liningright side against right side (Picture 2). Place front pieces onto linings, right sideagainst right side and sew armscye seams (Picture 3b). Leave side seam raw andsew bottom (Picture 3c) and front edges (Picture 3d). Leave shoulder seam raw. Turn front pieces right side out and press seams well. Edgestich armscyes, bottomand front.

Sew back darts closed on back shell and lining (Picture 4a). Sew back seam of backshell and lining (Picture 4b). Iron interfacing to back neck facing and armscye facings(Picture 5). Zigzag facings onto neck (Picture 6a) and to armscyes (Picture 6c) ofback lining, with their wrong side against lining's right side. Place back piece of shellonto back piece of lining, right sides together, and sew along hem (Picture 6c). Leaveall other seams raw. Turn back piece right side out and press hem seam well.

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Sandwich front pieces between back piece and back lining as follows: Place frontpieces between back piece and back lining. Right side of front piece is against rightside of back and right side of front lining is against right side of back lining. Pin sideand shoulder seams through all layers of fabric. Sew a continuous seam along sideseam (Picture 7a), back armscye (Picture 7b), shoulder (Picture 7c) and part of neck(Picture 7d). When you come to corners feel the place where front and back piecesmeet with your fingers and stop sewing exactly on that place (Picture 7e).

Sew other side seam, armscye, shoulder and part of neck same way. This way, yousew the front and back side seams and shoulder seams simultaneously. Sew otherside of the vest similarly. Leave part of neck unsewn, as instructed. It will form a holeat the back neck for turning the vest right side out.

Turn the vest right side out. Close hole at back neck by hand. Sew buttonholes. Sewon buttons. Edgestitch if desired. Do the final pressing.


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Sewing instructions for children's garmentsCopyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää

Sewing instructions: General | Ladies' garments | Ladies'_lingerieMaternity and nursing garments | Men's garments | Children's garments

MeasurementsIt's not usually necessary to take full measurements for baby clothes. Apicture instructing the measuring is included for cases when custom measurements arerequired.

First, the macro asks you to choose a standard size based on your baby's height. Youhave to choose a size even if you plan to type in custom measurements. Select thechoice that is closest to your subject's height. The next dialog box shows you thestandard measurements for that height. (Some of the macros have two dialog boxes formeasurements.) To accept these measurements, just click the "OK" button. If youwant to use custom measurements instead, enter the correct numbers and then click"OK".

EaseWe do not include an ease chart for the babies' garments because it should not benecessary to adjust ease much for babies' clothing. Baby clothes are deliberatelydesigned for a loose fit. Some macros give you a choice of "Normal" or "Wide" ease,and some select the ease automatically. Wide eases are for garments with very loosefit, or for outer garments that are to be worn over other clothes. Enter the correctmeasurements, and the macro will add the ease.

Sewing a T−shirt

Check that waist, neck and cuff ribbings are of suitable length. The correct lengthdepends on how elastic the ribbing fabric is.

Sew and overlock shoulder seams with right sides together (Picture 1).

Join sleeves to shell, right sides together (Picture 2). Overlock. Sew sleeve seamand side seam continuously from sleeve cuff to shell hem, right sides together (Picture3). Overlock..

Sewing instructions for children's garments

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Sew ends of waist ribbing together, to form a ring. Fold lengthwise in two, wrong side inside. Divide thecircumference of the ring into four equal parts andmark them with pins through both layers on the cutedges. Do the same with the bottom of the shell. Then pin together corresponding marks and stitch(Picture 4), stretching the ribbing to fit. Shell shouldbe inside out now, and the ribbing is inside it. Sewand overlock.

Attach neck and cuff ribbings in the same way.

Sewing a dress

The dress illustrated is constructed with a placket in front. Variations can use buttonsor a back closure (zipper or buttons). If you want to sew a collar on the dress, refer togeneral sewing instructions and leave out the neck facings.

Sew front center seam from hemline to where the button placket begins (Picture1a). Fold button placket right side inwards and sew bottom edge from fold to centerfront . Cut seam allowances diagonally here (Picture 1b).

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Iron interfacing to pocket pieces(Picture 1c). Turn seam allowancesinwards and baste. Topstitch top ofpocket. Sew pockets to their placeson front pieces simultaneouslyedgestitching them. The exactlocation of the pockets is a stylingdecision for you to make.

Sew and overlock shoulder seams (Picture 2a) and side seams (Picture 2b), rightsides together.

Easestitch sleeve cap with normal seam allowance (Picture 3a). Sew and overlocksleeve seams. Turn shell wrong side out and sleeves right side out. Place sleevesinside shell (Picture 3b) and match sleeve shoulder marks with shell's shoulder. Pullthe ends of the edgestitching threads to gather ease in. Sew and overlock.

Sew front and back neck facing pieces together at the shoulder(Picture 4). Place facing on neck of shell, right sides together. Fold front button placket, right side inwards, under the facing. Sew placket to facing. Snip seam allowances at 3/4 inch (2 cm)intervals and turn facing inwards. Edgestitch or stitch throughseam allowances only near seam. Strengthen bottom of buttonplacket with diagonal stitch line thorough all thicknesses on rightside

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Sew and attach sleeve cuffs according to general sewinginstructions . Fold hem allowance twice and sew. Sewbuttonholes. Sew on buttons.

Sewing a shirtFor the body of the shirt, follow the sewing instructions for man's shirt . Use general sewing instructions to attach collar and sleeve cuffs. Fold hem allowance twice andsew. Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons.

Sewing pantsSew center seam at crotch from leg to wherezipper placket begins (Picture 1a). Attachzipper according to general sewinginstructions . Place pocket lining on top ofpants pocket corner, right sides togetherPicture 1b), and sew along pocket mouth(Picture 1c).. Snip seam allowance atintervals of about 3/4 in (2 cm). Turn facinginside and topstitch pocket mouth twice.

Place pocket side body piece under pocket lining piece edges matching (Picture 2). Sew and overlock along round and bottom edges. Pocket side seams are attached tothe pants' side seam when sides are sewn.

Sew back waist dart. Sew center back seam, with elastic stitches if possible (Picture3).

Place front and back pants on top of each other, right sides together, and sew alongside seams (Picture 4a) and leg seams continuously from cuff to cuff (Picture 4b).

Fold front pleats soft and pin. Attach waist band according to general sewinginstructions .

Fold cuff seam allowances twice and sew. Sew button and buttonhole on waistband.

PANTS VARIATIONS:

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For pants with elastic waist band use pants'macro version 2, (bpants2.mac, cpants2.mac).Omit zipper and back darts. Sew ends of waistband together to form a ring. Overlock onelong edge and sew other edge to pants waist,right sides together. Press seam allowanceupwards. Fold waist band horizontally in twoand sew along previous seam line. Leave a holefor inserting a rubber band. After inserting arubber band close hole.

If you want to sew jeans (cjeans.mac, only for children over 2 years), sew and overlockback yoke's back seam and back pant's back center seam. Sew and overlock yoke topants, right sides together. Topstitch seam twice. Put decorative stitching, if desired, on back pockets now and then attach them. Topstitch leg seam (from cuff tocuff) twice. To be able to do this, sew side seams only after you have done this. Otherwise follow sewing instructions for normal pants above.

Sewing a sweater (see illustration for T−shirt)

Sew side pockets to front pieces according to general sewing instructions . For the body of the sweater, followthe instructions for T−shirt but do not attach ribbings.

Sew and attach hood according to general sewing instructions . Make smallbuttonholes in front piece, on both sides of center front and 2 − 1/2 inches (6 cm) frombottom edge. These are the holes for the drawstring. Strengthen buttonholes byironing interfacing to wrong side of fabric, then sew buttonholes. Fold hem allowanceinwards 1 − 1/2 inches (4 cm) and sew on right side with twin needle to form a tube fordrawstring.

Fold sleeve ends inwards and sew on right side with twin needle.

Sewing a vest with hood Overlock all edges of yoke pieces for shoulder and neckseams. Do the same with the front piece edges to whichyoke is to be joined. Fold button plackets of front yokeinwards along fold line. Fold front piece's yoke seamallowances inwards and baste (cut seam allowancediagonally at corners to allow it to fold). To strengthen thecorner to be cut, sew line of stitches around corners at widthof seam allowance from edge. Place yoke pieces are on topof each other so that their center fronts match (= buttonplackets on top of each other). Then place front piece on topof the yoke. Baste and sew yoke to front piece,simultaneously edgestitching it.

Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams of shell and armscye facings. Placefacings onto armscyes of shell, right sides together. Sew and overlock. Snip the

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seam allowances at 3/4 inch (2 cm) intervals. Turn facings inwards and edgestitch. Hand sew facings with small stitches to shell's shoulder and side seams.

Sew and attach hood according to general sewing instructions . Make smallbuttonholes in front piece, on both sides of center front and 2 − 1/2 inches (6 cm) frombottom edge. These are the holes for the drawstring. Strengthen buttonholes byironing interfacing to wrong side of fabric, then sew buttonholes. Fold hem allowanceinwards 1 − 1/2 inches (4 cm) and sew on right side with double needle to form a tubefor drawstring.

Sewing a bibsuit (overall)

Iron interfacing to outer half of the button plackets and pocket pieces.

Sew front center seam from leg seam to where button placket begins (Picture 1a ).Fold button placket right side inwards and sew bottom edge from fold to center front(Picture 1b). Cut seam allowance diagonally at center front(Picture 1c). Turn out. Place button plackets on top of each other, center fronts matching, and sew overbottom edge though all layers of fabric.

Turn the seam allowances of the pocket pieces inwards and baste (Picture 1d). Topstitch pocket mouths. Sew pockets to their places on front pieces, simultaneouslyedgestitching them.

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Sew back center seam, with elastic stitches if possible (Picture2).

Place front and back pieces on top of each other, rightsides together. Sew side seams (Picture 3a). Sewleg seam continuously from cuff to cuff (Picture 3b).

Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of the facings. Sew side seams of facings.

Fold button placket along folding line, right sides together (Picture 4a). Place facingson it on overall's neck, right sides together. Sew along top edges continuously fromcenter front, around shoulder strips and along armscyes to back shoulder strips etc.(Picture 4b).

Snip the seam allowance along the curved section at intervals of about 3/4 inch or 2cm. Cut corners of seam allowances. Turn facings and shoulder strips inside andedgestitch. Strengthen bottom of button placket with diagonal stitch lines thorough allthicknesses on right side (Picture 4c)

Sew buttonholes to back shoulder strips. Sew buttons on front shoulder strips.

Fold leg ends two times and sew.

If you sew an overall with sleeves follow the sewing instructions for T−shirt to sew top

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part of the overall. For patterns with hoods, attach hood according to general sewinginstructions . Attach sleeves according to instructions given for T−shirt.


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Baby's tailcoatThis is how Carolus got this fine tailcoat suit for his christening ceremony.

The suit has been designed and sewn by textile teacher Kirsi Kostamo ([email protected] ) at the Tuusula Community College, Finland usingPatternMaker babies' patterns .

The shirtThe shirt was sewn using the Babies' shirt patterns (bshirt.mac) to the waist length. Thepants were sewn to the hem of the shirt at the waist as explained below.

PatternMaker Sewing projects Baby's tailcoat

mailto:[email protected]

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The pants and the vest were combined to the shirt using the patterns of the babies' sleeveless suit(bbibsuit.mac). Into the combining seam of the shirt and the pants at the waist, a casingwas sewn and a rubber band was inserted in it. This helps the garment to sit better onthe baby.

For the vest only the front parts were sewn and its shoulder and side seams were sewninto the corresponding seams of the shirt.

The jacket was designed using the babies' shirt patterns (bshirt.mac) adding the collars, the lapelsand the tail to it. To get sufficient amount of ease to the tailcoat, the shirt patterns wereselected as one size bigger than would have been needed for Carolus. In thePatternMaker babies' macros the sizes can be chosen according to the height of thebaby from 68 to 98 cm, with 4 cm intervals.

FittingIt is very difficult to try the garment on a baby, so use another fitting garment of thebaby to check that the measurements of the garment will be all right.


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Pattern collection for newborn babies

Download pattern collectionTo buy and download the pattern collection please click here.

Sewing instructions, general

SeamsSew seams with narrowish medium long zigzag or with serger. Trim seam allowances ifnecessary.

FacingsOverlock the edges of the facings (sleepsuit bibs and body crotch) with zigzag or withserger. Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of the facings if necessary. Pin the facings inplace to the wrong side of the garment and attach when you sewing the bound edges.

Hems and casings for elasticsSew hems and waistline casings with double needle from right side of the garment.Trim seam allowances if necessary.

EdgingsFinish raw edges with bindings as follows. Cut 6 cm (2 3/8") wide strip from elasticfabric (same fabric as you use for the garment or other fabric) so that the fabricstretches horizontally. Fold the strip lengthwise in two wrong side in. Sew it to thewrong side of the edge with a seam allowance of 1 cm (1/4"). Stretch when sewing.Trim seam allowance. Turn the strip over the edge to the right side of the garment andedgestitch along the inner edge of the binding with double needle if available.


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Note! The edges stretch when the garment is used. So tauten them quite firmly whenattaching them to the garment. The best result is reached if Framilon (transparentelastic) is sewn along with the edge. First machine baste Framilon to the edge. Do notstretch. Framilon stretches enough when going under the presser foot.

The technique of bound edges is dealt with in the general sewing instructions.

Pattern sizesIn the babies'pattern collection there arepatterns for sleepsuit, body, two panties,pants with long and short legs, blouseand three caps as well as diaper covers.The patterns are in sizes 44−50−56−62cm, 17 3/8−19 3/4−22 1/16−24 3/8−263/4 in (the smallest size is for prematureinfant, see photo).Patterns for diapercovers are in sizes 50−56−62−68−74cm. 19 3/4−22 1/16−24 3/8−26 3/4−291/8 in.

Garment sewing instructions

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Sleepsuit1. Sew the foot tops and bottoms to the leg cuffs.2. Sew one side seam, continue around the foot and along the inside seam of the leg tothe place marked with number 2 in the picture. Sew the other side seam and legaccordingly starting from the point marked with number 2 in the picture.3. Sew the crotch piece to the opening at the suit crotch.4. Pin bib facings to the wrong sides of the bibs. Sew bound edges to the top edges ofthe sleepsuit.5. Sew buttons and buttonholes or pieces of Velcro to the bibs.

Body1. Sew side seams.2. Sew bound edges tothe top edges of thebody.3. Pin the crotchfacings to the wrongsides of the front andback crotches. Sewbound edges to thebottom edge of thebody.4. Pin the shoulders ofthe body on top of eachother according toshoulder marks on thepatterns. Sew boundedges to armholes.

Sew pieces of Velcro to front and back crotch.

Panties using the body patternsCut away the upper part of the body patterns. Add 1 1/2−2" of extra height to the topedge of the panties for waistline casing. Sew panties applying the body sewinginstructions.

Blouse using thebody patternsCut away the bottompart of the bodypatterns. Add 1 1/2−2"of length to the bottomedge of the blouse forhem allowance. Sewthe blouse applying thebody sewinginstructions. Sew sideseams, however, only

after you have sewn the sleeves flat to the sleeve openings. Sew side seams andsleeve seams as one process from the blouse hem to the sleeve cuff.

Please note that there are two versions of sleeves, one−piece and two−piece sleeve.The back piece of the two−piece sleeve is longer than the front piece. The cuff of thetwo−piece back sleeve is folded around the front sleeve cuff to form a "bag" for thebaby's hand. Alternatively the sleeve cuff can be left open folding the back sleeve cuffon top of the back sleeve.

Do as follows:1. Sew bound edges to the sleeve cuffs.2. Turn the cuff of the back sleeve according to the fold marks on the pattern right sidein.3. Place the front and the back pieces of the sleeve on top of each other right sidestogether and sew the center seam of the sleeve. Handle the sleeve from this on as it

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would be a one−piece sleeve. Other side of the back sleeve cuff fold is sewn along withthe sleeve inside seam.

Pants1. Sew the centerfront and backseams right sideagainst right side.2. Sew the crotchseam from leg cuff toleg cuff.3. Sew the waistband vertical seam.Fold the waist bandlengthwise into tworight side out andsew to the top edgeof the pants. Stretchthe waist band whensewing.

Turn the hem allowances of the leg cuffs inwards and sew with double needle from theright side of the garment.

Panties1. Cut open the round leg openings.Cut a seam from the leg openings tothe bottom of the side seams.2. Sew bound edges to the legopenings. Sew the seams cut fromthe leg openings to the bottom of theside seams as narrow as possiblefrom the wrong side of the panties. 3. Fold a waistline casing to the topedge of the panties and sew withdouble needle. Trim seam allowanceif necessary. Feed elastic into thecasing if necessary.

Diaper covers

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Cut the diaper covers double. Use fabricfor outdoor garments or other waterresistant fabric.

1. Place pieces on top of each other right side against right side. Sew along the frontand back edges. Turn the garment right side out and edgestitch front and back edges.2. Sew pieces of Velcro to the right side of the front edges and to the wrong side of theback edges according to marks on the patterns.3. Sew a casing for elastic to the top of the back pant through two layers of fabric. Feedelastic into the casing. Attach its ends with vertical stitch lines.4. Sew casings for elastic to the leg openings through two layers of fabric. Feed elasticto the casing and attach their ends with vertical stitch lines.5. Sew bound edge to the top edges of the pants front and back.

Caps

Sew this cap from elastic fabric only.

1. Join the top pieces of the cap two and two together. Then join the cap halves to eachother. 2. Sew the vertical seam of the cap band. Fold the band lengthwise into two wrong sidein and sew it to the bottom edge of the cap right side against right side. Stretch theband when sewing. Attach a decorative label or an application to the CF of the band.

Sew also this cap from elastic fabric only.

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1. Sew the side and the top seams of the cap.2. Overlock the bottom edge of the cap with zigzag or with serger. Fold thebottom half of the cap according to the marks on the pattern on top of thetop half of the cap and attach with a couple of invisible hand stitches to theside seams.

Turn the cap right side out and fold the bottom edge up. Attach a decorative label or anapplication to the cap. Bind knots to the top corners of the cap.

The third cap in the newborn babies' pattern collection can also be sewn of non−elasticfabric. Cut the pieces two times, one for the cap and one for the lining. If you do notuse ready−made band for the cap ties make them from the cap fabric. For instructionsplease refer to the instructions of how to make shoulder straps for lingerie.

1. Sew darts in the side sections of the cap and the lining.Attach the top/back sector of the cap to the side sectors.2. Place the cap and the lining within each other wrongsides together and machine baste the raw edges together.Put the cap ties in places between the cap and the edgebinding on the wrong side of the cap upside down. Sew abound edge to the raw edges of the cap. Finally, turn thecap ties downwards and attach with a few stitches to theedge binding.

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Documents

PatternMaker General sewing instructionsleenas.com/PDF/PDF_En/sewing.pdfneck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc. These eases are not given in