PHP Press Book 2016

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  • PHP Press Book 2016

  • 193style magazine

    t h e b e s t s h o p s

    d e g l i e f f e t t i , r o m a

    Quasi 40 anni fa la prima boutique. Non uno spazio tradizionale bens un concept store: A renderlo un luogo unico sono i nostri clienti.

    Un percorso guidato fra le migliori boutique italiane, che nasce dalla partnership tra le testate moda del gruppo Rcs (Style, Amica, Io Donna e il canale moda di Corriere.it) e The Best Shops (thebestshops.com), l'associazione nota anche come Camera Italiana Buyer Moda che raggruppa i pi prestigiosi multibrand italiani di moda d'alta gamma. Giacca, PHP Pihakapi. Sneakers, Carol Christian Poell. Giubbotto, Givenchy.

    tutto ebbe inizio a Roma nel 1979, al 79 di piazza Capranica, tra il Pantheon e Montecitorio quando Massimo Degli Effetti (foto sopra) trasform la piccola drapperia di famiglia in una boutique. C.P. Company, Massimo Osti, Adolfo Domnguez sono alcuni esempi di marchi che si potevano trovare in negozio: quando il prt--porter maschile rappresentava una scelta pioneristica Degli Effetti cera. Nessuno mi invitava

    alle sfilate, ma io mi infilavo lo stesso mescolandomi agli studenti confida. Il 1987 lanno della svolta: con larrivo di Jean Paul Gaultier la boutique diventa il punto di riferimento per il menswear italiano. Sul finire del secolo scorso viene concepito anche Neomillenium, spazio minimale creato con laiuto di Massimiliano Fuksas, che ospitava collezioni come quelle di Rick Owens e Carpe Diem by Maurizio Altieri. Nel 2009 questo viene sostituito da Apartment (lappartamento di fianco

    al negozio donna), spazio per eventi e showroom. Massimo Degli Effetti ha le idee molto chiare quando si tratta di dare consigli di stile. Qual il must dellautunno-inverno 2016/17? Di sicuro il velluto. Un colore su tutti: il bordeaux. Vietato il gilet. I miei clienti preferiscono gli stilisti giapponesi come Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garons, Matsuda e Issey Miyake. Perch non sono vittime del fashion: la personalit, legata al mondo dellarte e della cultura, fa del nostro spazio un luogo unico.

    autunno sul vellutodi davide blasigh - styling di giovanni de ruvo

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    1 6 o c t o b e r 2 0 1 6

    M a r i a n K e y e sM y f i r s t b r af i t t i n g a t 5 3

    K at e s p i c e rI s u r v i v e d t h e f i n a lp a r t y a t S p a c e

    h i g h s t r e e t s p e c i a l

    Y o u r g u I d e t o w h a t S h o t o n t h e h I g h S t r e e t n o ws h o p !l e t s

    STI16Y1GK_01_COVER.indd 1 10/7/2016 12:46:40 PM

  • harriet wears counterfeit zara: 30zara: 40

    3 3

    F a l s eE v e r y o n e k n ow s t h e h i g h s t r e e t a d a p t s l o o k sf r o m t h e c a t w a l k , b u t w h o k n e w t h a t h i g h - s t r e e tp i e c e s a r e a l s o b e i n g c o p i e d a n d s o l d a t e v e n

    c h e a p e r p r i c e s ? H a r r i e t E l t o n r e p o r t s

    e c o n o m y

    alk into any Zara store and, like most successful high-streetretailers, its borrowing from other designers is plain to see.Studded wrap-around ballet flats la Miu Miu, zip-up tracktops just like AW16 Marni, silky bombers like the Gucci onesslung over every fashion editors shoulder. In among them,I spotted and fell in love with a mustard-yellow fake-leatherbiker jacket for 40, remarkably similar to the yellow lambskinjacket by the emerging Italian brand Pihakapi, currently for saleon Farfetch.com for 900.

    When I couldnt find my size in any Zara store in London or online, I took toeBay to hunt down a second-hand one. More and more shoppers are lookingfor cult high-street items online, particularly since the internets obsessionwith #thatcoat: Zaras 70 blue and white print jacket, which became soubiquitous, it spawned its own Instagram account. And while many will havetrackeddown the sold-out piece from legitimate sources sellerswhoperhapsbought the wrong size, didnt like the style, or just wanted to clear out theirwardrobe others, like me, may have found themselves in a strange world ofhigh-street rip-offs.In the hunt formyyellow jacket,what I found on eBay didntmake immediate

    sense. Several international suppliers, mainly in China where a lot of Zaraproducts aremanufacturedwere selling the identical piece, labelled as brand-new Zara, but for less than the high-street price. One seller listed only Zaraitems, all at a fraction of the cost. Anavy folksy dress, for exampleadouble forVita Kins billowy kaftans was on sale for 30, 50% cheaper than the officialke

    vin

    dutt

    on

    designer original: 900

    STI16Y1GK_33_FAKE HIGH STREET.indd 33 07/10/2016 15:19:17

  • 3 5

    Zara piece (the originals by Vita Kin cost upwards of 1,200 atMatchesfashion.com). Another seller had a Zara top, dress andskirt, againat a50%discount.Other sellers listedevenmorebrands,such as brand-newAdidas andHunters, with prices just as slashed.Back on eBay, I clicked through on the cheapest Zara jacket

    I could find30, plus 5 for postage added to cart and awaitedmy shipment. Twoweeks later it arrived from China, wrapped in acheap parcel bag. It certainly looked like the real deal: the Zaralogo stitched into the collar, paper tags with the price on, properzips in tissue paper, the right colour, the right cut, even the rightwashing instructions. In the office, nobody could tell thedifferencebetween mine and the real one and mine was still 5 cheaperthan the high street, despite being sent halfway across the world.Had it really fallen off the back of a lorry on its way out of the

    Zara factory, or did I now own a very good Chinese rip-off? I wentback online to dig around. I spotted Zaras name on fashion forumswhere consumers expressed concerns about authenticity. Thegeneral consensus was that they couldnt be fakes who wouldmake a copy of something thats so cheap anyway? They actuallymake fake Zara stuff? balked one user. I mean, I love Zara, butits not exactly Prada.eBay doesnt allow the sale of counterfeit objects, and has

    rigorous checks. Counterfeits are illegal and not welcome on anyof eBays sites, it says. eBay has consistently been the internetindustry leader in working to stop the online sale of counterfeitgoods, running several anti-counterfeit initiatives including theVerified Rights Owner [VeRO] programme.So how did mine slip through? I messaged the seller, posing as

    an innocent consumer, to find out how they managed to sell thejacket so cheaply.The reply was evasive: This is directly sent fromthe factory, so the package is like that and cheaper, thank you,and We get all our items direct frommanufacturing factories. They are all genuine.Hmm.My jacket came with all the right Zara

    tags and labels, but I soon discovered plentyof other listings for similar items that wereunbranded. When I messaged these sellers,they acknowledged their similarity, butdenied all links to Zara.This, it seems, is wherethe legal grey area arises. I spoke to CharlieAbrahams, senior vice-president at thebrand protection and anti-counterfeitingagency MarkMonitor, who said it wasentirely possible my jacket was made in thesame factory as the Zara original, as my sellerclaimed, but that, as it hadnt passed thebrandowners quality control, it is technicallya counterfeit, because it is sold with theintention to deceive or defraud.The unbranded Zara jackets may be made

    in the same factory, too; however, they dontget called counterfeits because theyre notclaiming to be Zara. This is why theyrerampant online in China and even easier tofind, according to Liz Flora, editor-in-chief

    of Jingdaily.com, which reports on the Chinese luxury market.She tells me that the popular trade website Alibaba has a record ofselling unbranded items. Although Jack Ma, its founder, hasacknowledged that steps must be taken to stop fake products, hehas also claimed they are better quality. I looked online andspotted my yellow jacket on Alibaba for just 13 a piece thoughyou have to buy a minimum of 500 and the Vita Kin-like dresswas there, too, advertised using Zaras photos. I checked otherwebsites and found similar unbranded jackets being sold bycertain sellers on Amazon and Chinese favourites Sheinside andRomwe, all using their own images and not Zaras.Some of the copycat manufacturers dont even see the original

    garmentAbrahams says they use Zaras photos to replicate outfitsbased wholly on the pictures. They even sometimes then use theZara images to sell the unbranded products (which Abrahams saysis intellectual property infringement) as buyers aremore convinced.None of this is good news for Zara, of course, as the grey

    market the sale of branded products through channelsunassociated with the brand can flood the market with muchcheaper pieces. I approached Zara about all of this. Does the brandknow? Does it care? It declined an interview, but emailed back aperfunctory response: To guarantee customers genuine productsthat uphold our stringent quality and production standards,Zara exclusively sells its products in Zara stores. Zara takes thenecessary action to protect our customers from purchasingcounterfeit products that might not offer the high standards behindthe original Zara brand.A quick check on eBay shows my seller is still in business eBay

    says it has not triggered anything suspicious on our system. Italso says that Zara has a team of people patrolling the auction site inan attempt to stop fraud, but they didnt flag my seller up as

    suspicious either. Alibaba still has tradersselling unbranded Zara copies in bulk forobvious reasons, searching by specific retailers(for example, Zara navy folk dress) wont takeyou to that item, but more literal, specificterms such as long-sleevedvelvetmaxidresswill. Once youve found one seller, you canclick through all thei