Private Brands Knit Minimum Construction Standards - … · Private Brands Knit Minimum Construction Standards ... Private Brands Knit Minimum Construction Standards ... -Non Garment

Private Brands Knit Minimum Construction Standards

Listed items are minimum requirement for all private brands unless otherwise specified in the specification construction details by TD

Knit Construction Standards 10-2015.doc

1

How to use these Construction Standards: -Product Safety Standards list additional requirements to meet CPSC and FTC requirements. Please see Performance Testing – Softlines – Apparel & Apparel Accessories on www.connection.kohls.com -Defect Classification is listed separately. Please see Quality Assurance – Defect Classification on www.connection.kohls.com -Pattern Matching Guidelines are listed separately on www.connection.kohls.com -Underlined words have definitions/pictures in the Apparel Dictionary on www.connection.kohls.com under Private Brand’s tab/Technical Design -Standards followed by code (A-1, B-1, etc) have diagrams in the Construction Standard Appendix. -Construction standards are updated twice a year – before Spring/Summer costing season and before Fall/Holiday costing season. When starting a costing season, vendors should always check www.connection.kohls.com for latest version of Construction Standards and check this summary page for updates. Summary of Changes – NOTE PLEASE SEE FOLLOWING PAGES FOR FULL DETAILS October 2015 – Highlighted changes are effective Fall / Holiday 2016 Costing Page 5, SECTION E-Trims/Findings: Removed information for setting Invisible Zippers and updated appendix.




2

SECTION A-Thread: Thread types sizes may vary based on fabric characteristics and weight and are subject to approval by TD. Seams must meet Kohl’s strength and appearance requirements. See Preferred Supplier List for Sourcing requirements. General Apparel/Sportswear: Needle/Bobbin Thread Quality: -Non Garment wash/Garment wash for softness/shrinkage only: Spun Polyester -Chemical or Abrasive Garment Wash for appearance/color change: Poly wrap/Poly core (unless Cotton wrap/Poly core is specified for wash down appearance) Looper Thread Quality: Spun Polyester or texturized polyester Minimum thread size given – size up to next Tex size if not available for thread quality required. Needle/Bobbin Thread size: Looper Thread Size:

70-200g/m2 = Tex 21 Tex 18 140-270g/m2 = Tex 27 Tex 21 270-340g/m2 = Tex 40 Tex 27 Spun Poly 270-340g/m2 = Tex 40 Tex 35 Textured Poly

Buttonhole Thread: Required on all functional knit plackets Needle/Bobbin=Poly wrap/Poly Core Tex 24 Tight fitting garments designed for Power Stretch, Compression, or with > 7% Spandex: Needle/Bobbin = Poly wrap/poly core Tex 24, Looper = Texturized Polyester Tex 24 Sewn-on Metal Trims –(Ex. buttons, snaps, hook/eye): Poly wrap/Poly core. Must use Lockstitch if machine sewn

Beading/Sequins: Poly wrap/poly core. Tex size as specified

Shank Button Sew Thread Quality: 70-200g/m2: Poly wrap/polycore, Tex24-30 200-340g/m2: Poly wrap/polycore Tex40

Internal Thread Color: Must be DTM ground unless otherwise specified. Contrast color is subject to design approval.

SECTION B-SPI Requirements: General Sewing =10-12 SPI Neck openings, Empire Seams, Hems that fit tight against body/dressform =12-14 SPI Tight Fitting garments designed for Power Stretch, Compression, or > 7% Spandex = 14-16 SPI Elastic Openings = 16-18 SPI Elastic Relaxed Ball point needles only Multiple needle topstitching: must be parallel unless otherwise specified. Example – 2N pocket set – no cross-over of inside stitchline allowed at corners.

SECTION C-Seam Requirements: General Seams Mock Safety Stitch (ISO 512) or 2N 4 Thread Overedge (ISO 514). Flatseam (ISO 606 or ISO 607) fabric must be caught in 2 needles – Required for compression or tight fitting

garments. (C-2) No raw edges, open, or twisted seams. Ends of stitches must be secured at start and stop with 3-4 stitch back-tack, overlapping ½”, Coverseam/coverstitch – Ends of stitching must be secured with SN line tack if not enclosed in a seam. Line tack

width = topstitch width. Circular Finish-(C-3), Raw Edge Finish-(D-6) Ends of overedge seams must be SN tacked or have self-latched end. (C-1) No seams in binding or taping within neck seam or sleeve opening. Splicing in other external areas must be

inconspicuous and should not fall at CF or near neck opening of garment.




3

SECTION D-Construction: Neckline/Placket/Shoulder/Side Seams: Bound necklines to close at wearer’s left shoulder. Bound finishes & flat hems must be line tacked towards the back. Tack length=binding width (D-1) Binding/Taping ends must be tucked under and have 2-3 stitch back-tack. Seam must be entirely covered by

taping/binding and not visible along edges. (D-2) Neck Join Seam: 3 Thread Overedge (ISO 504) Placket closure: Men’s & Boy’s overlap wearer’s left over right. Women’s & Girl’s overlap wearer’s right over left. Children’s Zip Plackets – refer to Kohls safety requirements for facing between zipper teeth and body Shoulder seams must be reinforced with clear elastic tape and set to the back seam allowance. Sleeve/Bottom Hem: Hems must be circular finished unless otherwise specified. Blind hems can be 2TH overedge (ISO 503) or Single thread Blindstitched (ISO 103)-follow specification. Rib trim seam must align with body seam. Rib should be circular set unless sleeve opening is too small or rib height

too wide to allow for circular construction. (D-3) Vents/slits must be clean finished and reinforced as specified. (D-4) Binding or taping must be continuous piece Raw Edge hems at side/underarm seams must be tacked or backstitched at bottom of raw edge so stitching cannot

unravel. (D-6) Coverstitch/Coverseam circular hem must overlap ½” at side/underarm seam location with SN line tack sewn over

side/underarm seam securing all thread ends. Line tack width = topstitch width (C-3) Pockets: Pocket openings must be reinforced as specified. (D-7) Pocketing and bags must not have raw edges.

Styling Features: Shirring must be evenly distributed. Elastic Openings: should be stitched with chainstitch ISO 401 Two-fer styles with camisoles: Camisole must be attached to shell at shoulder seam with thread chain loop or

clear stretch tape as specified.(D-8) Adjustable straps – must be line tacked or bartacked at O-rings & slider using a 28-stitch tacking machine. Heat

cut edges must be clean finished so they are not against the skin. (D-9) Waistband: All Chainstitch (ISO 401) must be secured with a lockstitch (ISO 301) at start/stop with a minimum of 2-3 back

stitches or bartack. Half back elastic must be clean finished on inside waistband at sideseam.

Binding on Newborn/Infant Openings: Binding Width for Snaps: Inside edge of binding is 1/16” wider than outside edge so snaps are set on an even

surface. (D-17) Both side seams on bodysuits are line tacked towards the back leg opening. Linings: • Tops: -Lining must be secured at shoulder seam, underarm, hood if applicable with a floating fabric tack. • Bottoms: -Lining must be secured at crotch point with a floating tack. -Free-hanging linings are additionally secured at inseam/outseam with floating tacks above bottom hem. Buttonholes: Buttonholes on single ply fabric for drawstrings must have interlining backing – all functional buttonholes must be on 2 ply of fabric.




4

SECTION E-Trims/Findings: Interlining/Backing, Elastic, Metal Fasteners and Zipper Suppliers: See Preferred Supplier List for Sourcing requirements. Internal Component Trim Color: (Elastic, Interlinings, reinforcement tapes, shoulder pads, etc) White for light colors, Black or Gray for dark colors. Heat Cut Edges: No ‘hot wire’ heat cut edges against skin. Heat cut ends are permitted if they are enclosed. Heat sonic edges are subject to approval. Elastic: Full Elastic openings must be set circular. Lapped join seam placed at CB/Underarm. Tunnel Elastic must be vertically tacked to tunnel at CB/Underarm (or other location as specified) to prevent twisting

of elastic inside tunnel. Zippers: Metal zippers for tops and outerwear at center front must have auto lock sliders. Coil zippers for tops and outerwear at center front must have auto lock or semi auto lock sliders. Metal zippers for bottoms at waist opening must have auto-lock or semi-auto lock sliders. Coil zippers for bottoms at waist opening must have auto lock sliders. Separating Only: Must be left hand insert, right hand pull. Separating Only: Reinforce zipper box/pin with Line tack or Bartack sewn on a 28 -stitch tacking machine.

(E-1) Zippers with Metal claw top / bottom stops are only allowed if stops are not exposed.

Closures: Snaps/Buttons/Buttonholes Must be evenly spaced and centered on the width of plackets, cuffs, waistbands, and

inseams. Snaps/Buttons/BHs/Grommets must be reinforced on single plies of fabric. Reinforcements must be uniform size &

shape throughout garment. Childrens’/Adult Sportswear Buttons decorative or functional must be attached with a lock-stitch button-sew

machine. Shankless Buttons must be sewn with shank height suitable for fabric thickness (E-2) 4 Hole Buttons set with a minimum of 16 stitches. 2 Hole Buttons set with a minimum of 8 stitches. Shank Buttons set with a minimum of 8 stitches (vertically). (E-3) Wrapped Shank Buttons set with a minimum of 8 stitches (vertically) and 8 revolutions (horizontal wrapped). (E-3) Extra Buttons If required, 1 extra button per ligne included in specified location. Buttonholes: recommended minimum of 108 stitches; (304/404). Bungi/Elastic Drawcords:

- Drawcord ends sewn into seams: Cut end must be wrapped in fabric and tacked to cord ½” from cut end in two places 1/4” apart. Only fabric is sewn into seam. -Circular/Continuous drawcords: Overlap cut ends 1 1/4”, wrap fabric around cut ends. Tack fabric to cord in two places ¼” apart, ½” from cut ends. (E-6)

Interlining: Hand ironing is not acceptable. Testing must be conducted (by vendor) through interlining supplier’s lab prior to

production to ensure appropriate application. Submit test results to Kohl’s Technical Designer only if test fails or if requested by TD.




5

Padding: Embroidery: All embroidery must have suitable tear away or dissolvable backing and must be removed after application. Embroidery Thread must be polyester unless otherwise specified. Over-the-Back Embroidery Cover when specified by TD: Must use Vilene PD9333 / Chargeurs 2200/2201 with fusing

machines or Vilene PE9924 / Chargeurs 2209 with hand irons. PCC ‘CT6116’ can be used with fusing machine or hand iron. Fusible testing must be conducted by vendor through Chargeurs, PCC, or Vilene prior to production to ensure appropriate application.

Beading/Sequins: Must be knotted every 1” with thread floats no longer than 1” (Children’s 0 – 4T no longer than 3/8”: Children’s 4 –

20 no longer than 1/2"). Longer float lengths are subject to TD approval if garment is lined or backed with an appropriate fusible over the back cover.

SECTION F-Cutting: Cutting Direction: All components within the garment and multiple garments sold together as a set are cut in same direction. Napped fabrics:

2-way cut: all components within a garment and multiple garments sold together as a set are cut in same direction.

1-way cut: Top/Bottom sets sold as separates Uneven plaids/stripes:

2-way cut, all parts cut in same direction within a garment. 1 way prints: cut entire quantity in same direction.

02-10-2010

Construction Standards

Appendix

KNITS

Overedge seam

Btm edge of fabricSN Tack

Overedge seam

Btm edge of fabric SN Tack = Seam width

Overedge seam

Btm edge of fabric

Self-Latch: Chain-off is folded over edge of fabric before sewing.

Overedge Seam =Overedge- ISO 503, 504, 505, 514Mock-Safety Stitch - ISO 512Safety Stitch- ISO 515, 516 INTERIOR VIEW

OR OR

Overedgeseam

Btm edge of fabric

EXTERIOR VIEW

C-1. Overedge Seams - End finishing02-10-2010

02-10-2010

C-2. Flatlock Seam Requirements

Top View

Flatlock stitches:ISO 605 - 3Needle/ 5 Thread CoverstitchISO 607 - 4 Needle/ 6 Thread Coverstitch

CROSS-SECTION VIEW

Fabric edges of all layers must becaught by center 2 needles.

ISO 607

Fabric is lapped.

Fabric edges of all layers must becaught by center needle.

ISO 605

Fabric is lapped.

02-10-2010

Side View

Front View

C-3. Circular Coverstitch/Coverseam Tack

SN/LS line tack sewn over side/underarm seam securing all thread ends.

Start/stop stitching must overlap 1/2”-3/4”

SN/LS Line tack width = topstitch width

Circular Hem = Coverstitch - ISO 406, 407, or 602

D-1. Bound Finishes/Flat Hems 02-10-2010

Side View

Bound finishes and flat hems must be line

tacked towards the back

Tack Width = Binding/Hem Width

D-2. Binding/Taping - Finishing2-10-2010

Backtacked 2-3 stitches

Trim tucked under

Cross Sectional View

Trim should be fully turned under

No raw edge

Top View

D-3. Rib Trim - Seams02-10-2010

Interior View

Cuff seam must align with body seam

Circular (Preferred) Not Circular - (Use only whentrim height too wide or sleeveopening is too small)

Not Circular

Exterior View

Not Circular - (Use only whensleeve opening is too small)

Not CircularCircular (Preferred)

02-10-2010

D-4. Vents and Slits - Finishing

Exposed Mitered Clean finishedHidden Mitered

- Follow construction details sketch for styling details: Vent width, top of vent shape (miter or square), reinforcement visible or hidden.- Do not clip through side seam stitching- Reinforcement required at top of vent: Visible bartack or hidden line tack as specified.

Over-Locked/Mock-Safety Stitched

HiddenLine Tack@ top of VentOpening

TAPED - INTERIOR VIEW

TAPEDEXTERIOR VIEW

SELF-TURNEXTERIOR VIEW

SELF-TURN - INTERIOR VIEW

Coverstitch seamBtm of fabric (raw edge finish)

SN Tack across all rows of needles

Seam Edge

Lockstitch ISO 301 = BackstitchChainstitch ISO 401 = SN Tack over end of stitching

Btm of fabric (raw edge finish)

Coverstitch seam

Bartack across all rows of needles

Btm of fabric (raw edge finish)

See Diagram ‘C-1 Overedge Seams - End Finishing’ if Side/Underarm Seam Construction =Overedge- ISO 503, 504, 505, 514Mock-Safety Stitch - ISO 512Safety Stitch- ISO 515, 516

Side/Underarm Seam Construction =Coverstitch - ISO 406, 407, 602, Lap Seam Coverstitch - ISO 605, 606,607

Side/Underarm Seam Construction =Lockstitch - ISO 301Chainstitch - ISO 401

INTERIOR VIEW INTERIOR VIEW INTERIOR VIEW

EXTERIOR VIEW EXTERIOR VIEW EXTERIOR VIEW

D-6. Raw Edge Hems - Side/Underarm Seam Finishing02-10-2010

D-7. Pocket Openings - Reinforcement02-10-2010

L-Tack Rectangular Triangular

Double NeedleTop-Stitch

Double Needle with Bartacks

Single Welt w/ SN/LS around perimeter & Line Tack at each end

Double Welt w/ SN/LS and Bartacks at each end

Turned Hem

Folded Edge

Raw Edge

Miter fold seam allowance and secure inside corner stitching

Turned Hem

Trim seam allowance at a 45 degree angle and secure

inside corner stitching.

Raw Edge

Inner corner pocket treatment - as specified by TD

02-10-2010

D-8. Cami Attachment to Shell

Thread Chain loopClear stretch tape loop

Two-fer styles withcamisoles:

Camisole is attached toshell at shoulder seamwith thread loop or clearstretch tape as specifiedby TD.

02/10/2010

D-9. Adjustable Straps-Tacking

AdjustableElasticStrap

INTERIOR VIEW

Fold cut end under and stitch ORinsert into binding seam.

No heat cut edges against skin

Bartack or Line Tack

Tack length =strap width

EXTERIOR VIEW

CROSS-SECTION OF ADJUSTABLE ELASTIC STRAP

CutEnd*

O-Ring

Adjustable Slider

CutEnd*Binding

Top Edge

Cut EndNo heat cut(against skin)

Tack CS

TackTack

DIAGRAM IS FOR EXAMPLE OF CUT END FINISH & STRAP TACKING ONLY:

Please follow sketch details on technical specification for actual strap construction.

OR

(LINE TACK)

(BARTACK)

TACKS must be sewn on 28 stitch tacking machine either set to bartack (zig-zag) or Line tack (straight) configuration.Sewing tacks on SN Lockstitch machine w/ backstitch is not acceptable tacking method.

* Enclosed cut ends can be heat cut if needed for fabrication

D-17. Binding Width for Snap Plackets02-10-2010

Inside edge of binding is 1/16” wider than the outside edgeso snaps are set on an even surface

CROSS-SECTION OF BINDING/SNAP PLACKET

Prong

Snap Socket or Stud

1/16”

BindingFabric Fabric

Snap Socket or Stud

Binding

Prong

Snap set on even surface

Snap set on un-even surface

Correct Incorrect

Outside(Face Side)

Inside Inside

Outside(Face Side)

E-1. Separating Zipper - Reinforcement02/10/2010

Bottom Edge

Zipper Teeth

Vertical Bartack (shown)or Line Tack,set parallel to zipper pin/box over Zipper TS

Allow 1/4” Gap between btm zipper & btm edge

Miter fold hem to expose zipper pinfor easy insertion into zipper box.

INTERIOR VIEW

Zipper PinZipper Slider

Zipper Box

Bottom Edge

Zipper Teeth

INTERIOR VIEW

Zipper PinZipper Slider

Zipper Box

Tape/bindingset over zippertape edge

EXTERIOR VIEW

Line Tack (shown)or Vertical Bartack,set parallel to zipper pin/box over Zipper TS

EXAMPLE - COVERED SEPARATING ZIPPER W/ FOLD OVER HEM

EXAMPLE - EXPOSED SEPARATING ZIPPER W/ TAPED EDGES

EXTERIOR VIEW

Diagrams are examples only - follow sketch in technical specification for actual zipper construction.TACKS must be sewn on 28 stitch tacking machine either set to bartack (zig-zag) or Line tack (straight) configuration.Sewing tacks on SN Lockstitch machine w/ backstitch is not acceptable tacking method.

E-2. Shank Height Requirements02/10/2010

Thread Shank Height =Buttonhole Placket Height

Button

Buttonhole Placket

Button Placket

Button

E-3. Shank Button Sewing Requirements

Shank Button

ButtonShank

8 vertical stitches - MUSTbe separate stitches, not1 stitch with 8 plies of thread.

ALL HAND-SEWN BUTTONS:Knot after completing Vertical stitches

HAND-SEWN - BETTER/BEST ADULT OUTWEAR: Knot before2nd to last vertical stitch

HAND-SEWN SHANK BUTTON ATTACHMENT

ButtonholePlacket8 vertical stitches

Machine backstitchafter completing Vertical stitches

MACHINE-SEWN SHANK BUTTON ATTACHMENT

Shank Button

ButtonShank

ButtonholePlacket

Knot after completing horizontal wrap

HAND-SEWN - BETTER/BEST ADULT OUTWEAR: Knot before2nd to last horiztontal wrap

HAND-SEWN BUTTON/THREAD WRAP SHANK

Knot after completing Vertical stitches

2-Hole or 4-Hole Button

ButtonholePlacket

8 revolutions- MUST beseparate revolutions, not 1revolution with 8 plies of thread.

8 Revolutions

MACHINE-SEWN THREAD WRAP SHANK

Machine backstitchafter completing Horizontal wrap

2-Hole or 4-Hole Button

ButtonholePlacket

E-6. Bungi-Elastic Drawcords02-10-2010

Circular Tack:- Overlap bungi ends 1 1/4”- Wrap ends of bungi cord with fabric- Tack fabric to bungi cord - (2) tacks 1/4” apart and at least 1/2” fromcut end of bungi cord

Non-Circular Tack:- Wrap ends of bungi cord with fabric- Tack fabric to bungi cord - (2) tacks 1/4” apart and at least 1/2” fromcut end of bungi cord- Sew fabric end into seam

Non-Circular Tack to Facing:- Tack bungi cord to front facing/seam allowance - (2) tacks 1/4” apart and at least 1/2” fromcut end of bungi cord

Fabric scrap

1/2” 1/4”Cut end of bungi cord

Cut end of bungi cord

Fabric scrapCut end of bungi cord

1/2” 1/4”

Seam

Front facing edgeCut end of bungi cord

1/2” 1/4”

CF Seam View Inside Hem

Hem Bottom Edge

CROSS-SECTION OF:SCRIM APPLIED TO PREVENT PADDING FIBER PERCOLATIONTHROUGH LINING FABRICSTYLING APPLICATION: - Woven nylon/polyester Linings < 190T Thread count - Fleece, knit, or cotton linings w/ low thread count - Note if Shell fabric is also low thread count and is also non- coated, may also need to apply scrim layer between padding and shell fabric. - Needle punch, bonded, or hot plate surface finish padding may be exempt from scrim if mock-up passes 3 launderings with out fibers entangling or percolating through shell or lining.

FACE SIDE/SHELL FABRIC

QUILT LINES

4” MAXIMUM QUILT LINES

POLY FILL/PADDING

SCRIMLINING

CROSS-SECTION OF:SCRIM APPLIED TO PREVENT PADDING FIBER MIGRATIONSTYLING APPLICATION: - Garment Washed/Tumbled outerwear - Light weight/unstable polyfill - Needle punch, bonded, or hot plate surface finish padding may be exempt from scrim if mock-up passes 3 launderings with out fibers clumping/shredding.

CROSS-SECTION OF:SCRIM APPLIED TO PREVENT PADDING FIBER MIGRATIONSTYLING APPLICATION: - Garment with Non-quilted or Free hanging shell/lining - Provide stability to polyfill so that it stays in place inside of garment.


QUILT LINES


POLY FILL/PADDING

SCRIM

LINING


QUILT LINES


POLY FILL/PADDING

SCRIM

SCRIMLINING

E-7. Padding: Scrim Requirements02-10-2010

Documents

Private Brands Knit Minimum Construction Standards - … · Private Brands Knit Minimum Construction Standards ... Private Brands Knit Minimum Construction Standards ... -Non Garment