PRODUCT HEALTH AT A GLANCE - · PDF filePRODUCT HEALTH AT A GLANCE ... Fiber Composition * Composition Tolerances Colour ... Chemical Classification According to CTW Categories

INDITEX

PRODUCT HEALTH AT A GLANCE

10th Ekoteks SymposiumIstanbul, May 3rd 2017

INDITEX

“Picking”Program

R&DCollaborations

Ready To Manufacture (RTM)

Green To Wear (GTW)

RCAAudits

INDITEX Product Health Programs Throughout Its Supply Chain

The List by

INDITEX

Product Health and Safety

INDITEX

Product health standard: Based on the most restringent product health legislations wordwide.

Regulates and/or restricts different families of chemicals (19) or parameters (6) related to theuse of chemical products in all INDITEX productions with the aim of protecting customers´shealth.

Arilamines

* Dyestuffs* Pigments

Formaldehyde

* Chemicals forPrinting

Heavy Metals

* Buttons* Zippers

FiberComposition

* CompositionTolerances

ColourFastness

pH

* AuxiliaryProducts

INDITEX Product Health Standard: Introduction to Clear To Wear (CTW)


INDITEX

RawMaterials

Spinning

Weaving

Wet

processesStitching

Final Article

INDITEX Product Health Standard: Clear To Wear (CTW) Scope


BEFORE Production Pre-Production Program

DURING Production “Picking” ProgramRCA Audits

AFTER Production Control at distribution centres

Same implementation level in all INDITEX brands

INDITEX

INDITEX Product Health Programs: REACTIVE Programs


INDITEX

INDITEX Product Health Programs: REACTIVE Programs: During Production

Production

Start

Production

End

41.880 “Picking” Visits675.817 Tests

“Picking” Program

DESCRIPTION:• Individual chemical risks allocation for every single

article produced by INDITEX.

• Random sampling of a determine number of samples

once production reaches a specific level and shipment

to local lab.

OBJECTIVE:Early detection of potential CTW no compliances before

production is finished and sent to INDITEX.


INDITEX

DESCRIPTION:

Technical audits carried out by experts in textile/leather sector once a detection/CTW no compliance is detected

by Picking project

OBJETIVE:

To determine the source of the detection/CTW no compliance to prevent it in the future

365 RCA Audits > 2.500 Chemicals Tested

INDITEX Product Health and Safety Programs: REACTIVE Projects

Issues To Be Checked:

Facility capacity

Machinary available

Manufacturing process

Manufacturing process récipe

Chemical products involved

Outcomes:

Analytical results of the Chemicals involved

Conclusions about the source of the problem

Recommendations

Root Cause Analysis (RCA) Audits

INDITEX

Sustainability and Product Health & Safety Programs: Proactive Programs

DESCRIPTION:

Investment in different programs to improve the technical capabilities of the supply chain and consequenly, its

sustainability by the reduction of:

• CTW non compliances:

o Due to the comsumption of more resources (raw materials, energy, chemicals, etc.)

o Due to production rejections

• Manufacturing costs

• Manufacturing times

PROACTIVE

Programs REACTIVE

Programs

INDITEX


R&DCollaborations


Green To Wear (GTW)

RCAAudits


The List by

INDITEX


INDITEX

The List by INDITEX: Introduction

DESCRIPTION:

First comprehensive register of

chemical products used in textile

and leather manufacturing

processes classified by their

degree of CTW compliance.

OBJECTIVE:

Supervise and improve quality of

chemical products used during

textile/leather manufacturing

processes along with the

chemical industry.

MOTIVATION:

INDITEX epidemiological studies shown that most of CTW non compliances are related to the use of bad quality dyestuffs

and auxiliaries during articles production.


CTW Categories

Chemical Classification According to CTW Categories

Codes Description

(A) Can be used

(B) Can be used but application needs to be tested

(C) Cannot be used

CTW Non Compliance Description

(1) Formaldehyde

(2) Heavy Metals

(3) Chromium

(4) Arylamines (azo dyes)

Chemicals Family

INDITEX

The List by INDITEX: Description (I)

PARTICIPANT

INDITEX

(1) Formaldehyde

(2) Heavy Metals

(3) Chromium

(4) Arylamines (azo dyes)

(5) Chlorophenols

(6) Phthalates

(7) Fluorocarbons

(8) Others

The List by INDITEX: Description (II)

PARTICIPANT

I Edition (11/13) II Edition (01/15) III Edition (03/17)

10 new companies

Total: 22 companies

15 Requests 64 Requests 50+ Requests


INDITEX

The List by INDITEX: Evolution

Key Parameters 1st Edition 2nd Edition 3rd Edition

Companies Involved 10 15 22

Chemical Products Included 4,224 8,258 Approx. 20 ,000

Number of Tests Performed 1,774 8,289 Approx. 32,000

Chemicals classified as “B” or “C” 710 (17 %) 1,548 (19 %) Approx. 6,800 (34 %)

INDITEX

The List by INDITEX: Commitments of Participants

• Elimination/progresive reduction of regulated substances

• Assumption of finalcial penalties

• Removal of non complaint lots from the market

• Acceptance of audits to their production sites on a regular basis

Reactive25%

Disperse20%

Vat10%

Direct10%

Acid5%

Others30%

Global Estimation of DyestuffsDistribution

• 40-45 % of reactive dyestuffs are based on blackreactive 5.

• Black reactive 5 consumption is about 180,000 –200,000 Tons/year (12 % of total dyestuffsconsumption).

• All black reactive 5 contain 150 – 700 ppm pCA dueto elimination costs and difficulty.

• As a consequence of imposed productionimprovements, 2 of the participants has developedthe first black reactive 5 without pCA.

Dyestuff Global Consumption Estimation: 1.7 million tons


INDITEX

The List by INDITEX: Case Study: Black Reactive 5

OUTCOMES:

• To guarantee the compliance of “Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals” commitment.

• To prohibit the use of most polluting chemicals in Inditex productions.

• To improve quality of chemicals and waste waters by imposing continuos production

improvement to all participants.

• To lead chemical industry to improve their manufacturing processes and quality of their

products by creating chemicals risks awareness into the textile/leather sectors.

• To reduce product health international legislation non compliances in INDITEX and other

retailers productions.

• To ease selection of chemicals in order to save time and costs.


INDITEX

The List by INDITEX: Outcomes

• Inclusion of New Participants and Parameters

• Creation of a Specific Section for Sustainable Manufacturing Processes

• Indication of Sustainable Chemicals

• Online Version


INDITEX

The List by INDITEX: Future Initiatives

Focus Towards Sustainability…

INDITEX


R&DCollaborations


Green To Wear (GTW)

RCAAudits


The List by

INDITEX


DESCRIPTION:

Manufacturing code of mandatory compliance for all INDITEX direct suppliers and their wet processing mills.

RTM includes for the first time mandatory GMPs and recommended best practices which covers all stages of the

manufacturing process in order to ensure production traceability and CTW compliance.

INDITEX

Ready To Manufacture: Introduction

Raw Material Testing Finished

Product

Pretreatment Beam House

Tanning

Dyeing PrintingWashingCrusting

Finishing

Dyes, Pigments, Auxiliaries

Grey Yarn / Fabric ,Raw Hide/ Skin


INDITEX

Ready To Manufacture: Description

o Section 1 - Mill Staff

o Section 2 - General Warehouse Conditions

o Section 3 - Raw Materials Warehouse

o Section 4 - Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Warehouse

o Section 5 - Finished Goods Warehouse

o Section 6 - Work In Progress

INTERNAL STRUCTURE:

2 chapters:

• Direct suppliers and sub-suppliers:

• Mill included in the supply chain of direct suppliers or sub-suppliers:

OBJECTIVE:

To ensure full compliance of INDITEX product health

standard (CTW) and MRSL.

SCOPE:

Dyeing and printing mills, laundries and tanneries

within the supply chain of all INDITEX direct suppliers.

o Section 7 - Dyeing and Washing

o Section 8 - Printing

o Section 9 - Water Discharge Effluents

o Section 10 - Production and Chemicals Control

o Section 11 - CTW Management

o Annexes (templates and decision charts)

o Section 1 – Direct Supplier Staff o Section 2 – Traceability Documents


PARAMETERS CONTROLLED:

Arylamines; Formaldehyde; pH; Colour Fastness, Fiber Composition, PFCs and APEOs.

RTM IMPLEMENTATION AND VERIFICATION:

RTM implementation is checked by means of regular technical audits performed by nominated third parties service

providers.

In case RTM non compliance is found, a corrective action plan is provided and checked by means of follow-up audits.

INDITEX

Ready To Manufacture: Implementation and Verification

Type of Facility Audited/Trained % Improvement

Direct Suppliers 335 89 %

Mills 1,506 71 %

RTM COMMUNICATION:

RTM manufacturing code has been translated into 9 languages in order to improve distribution throughout the wet

processing mills of all direct suppliers involved.


• Increase of factories sustainability/reduction of environmental impact:

o Power, water and chemicals consumption.

o Waste waters and emissions.

• Reduction in manufacturing times and costs associated to article reprocessing.

• Optimization of chemicals inventory.

• Improvement in risk management.

• Increase profitability by reducing variations, wastes and defects/rejections.


Important: All RTM implementation benefits could be enjoyed by all retailers using the audited mill.

INDITEX

Ready To Manufacture: Implementation Benefits

INDITEXINDITEX

The List by INDITEX and Ready To Manufacture Connectionmanagement.. Applications Status for the III Editio


INDITEX


R&DCollaborations


Green To Wear (GTW)

RCAAudits


The List by

INDITEX


INDITEX

Latest R&D Collaborations: Introduction

Universities:

Technological Centers:

R&D Laboratories:

Chemical Manufacturers/Consultancy:

Supervising and Sectorial Organisms:


INDITEX


R&DCollaborations


Green To Wear (GTW)

RCAAudits


The List by

INDITEX


Where Are We Going To….?