Read this Construction Manual first. This manual provides ...mosquitobiteplanes.com/sundog/SDG_50_1A_Web.pdf · • 5 Chanel programable radio (. com) • Receiver Blanket/bubble-wrap

Read this Construction Manual first. This manual provides important building and safety/warning information that must

be read and understood before using this product.

IMpoRTanT: As the manufacturer, we provide a high-quality product for modellers to build. The completed construction of this kit will not result in a product ready for flight. The modeller must install additional equipment and materials [not supplied] if flight is intended. Any process, operation or action performed by any modeller/person(s) is not within the control of the manufacturer, therefore no liability shall be assumed nor accepted by the manufacturer. The modeller/person(s) building this kit is solely responsible for the quality of the construction. By no means, implied or otherwise, is the manufacturer responsible for the safe construction nor the use made of this kit; that is the sole responsibility of the builder. Any modeller/person(s) not willing to accept all liability associated with this product must return the whole kit in unused condition to the place of purchase. Building this kit in part or whole will bind the modeller/person(s) to the agreement of these terms.

Because Building Should be Fun

All Contents © Copyright 2016. SDG-50-1.0A

SunDog Construction Manual MosquitoBite Planes

A Word About SAfety

2

a Word about Safety• This Product is a highly engineered kit that requires the modeller to follow exact instructions to complete the kit

properly. Failure to follow the instructions provided may result in damage to the kit, persons and/or property. Take your time building this kit. Attention to detail is required when completing each section.

• Do not modify this kit beyond its designed specifications.

• Use quality components when installing radio equipment. Do not use damaged or modified servo/radio equipment.

• Be sure that all components of the model are secured and configured in a safe manner.

• Note: As the manufacturer, we provide a high-quality product for modellers to build. The result of the modeller competing this kit does not constitute a product ready for flight, only a platform. The modeller building this kit is solely responsible for the quality of the construction. By no means, implied or otherwise, is the manufacturer responsible for the safe construction nor the use made of this kit; that is the sole responsibility of the builder.

Read all pages of this Construction Manual completely before unpacking/building this kit.

Critical TerminologyNote the terms used in this manual:“Dry-fit” This always means to put pieces

together without using any glue at all. “CA” This is referring to CA glue (Cyanoacrylate)“Glue” To completely bond noted pieces with

wood glue only. Using CA glue in place of wood glue is not recommended (too brittle).

“Sheeting” Use of wide ⅛" balsa or 1⁄16" balsa as specified.

“Covering” This always means the outer skin (i.e. Ultracote, MonoKote, Solarfilm etc.).

Orientation:References are from the perspective of the pilot. Port = Left, Starboard = Right, Aft = Rear, Forward = Front, Deck = Floor.

ContentS

MosquitoBite Planes SunDog Construction Manual 3

Shopping ListThis list is for the items that will aid the build process. The builder should have these items, or something comparable to achieve the same result.

• Battery Straps - 2

• 420—450W Motor

• 60A ESC

• 3S 2200 Battery

• Servos: HS-322HD (x2), HS-225MG (x2)

• 5 Chanel programable radio (www.hitecrcd.com)

• Receiver Blanket/bubble-wrap

• 3” Foam Wheels - 3

• Small elastics - 2

• Ultracote/Oracover covering

• 11x5 Propeller

• 2.25” Spinner

• Glue: Thin CA, Type-2 wood glue (2002 GF from Lee Valley Tools is recommended. www.leevalley.com)

ContentsA Word About Safety . . . . . . . . . 2

Critical Terminology . . . . . . . . . 2

Shopping List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Helpful Tools/Aids . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Pre-assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

The Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5The Wing Cage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Main Spar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8RIBS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Rear Spar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Wingtips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Sheeting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Trailing Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Covering The Wing . . . . . . . . . . 18Aileron Hinge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Wing Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25V-Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Hatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33The Main Landing Gear . . . . . . . . . . .35Wing Saddle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Motor Mounts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Speed Controller (ESC) . . . . . . . . . . 40Control Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41V-tail Control Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . .43

Nose Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Covering Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Helpful Tools/aids• Pencil

• Hobby Knife (X-Acto blades)

• Long Straight Edge (ruler...)

• Elastics (small x 2)

• Balsa Stripper

• Dremel Tool: - Large Cutting Disks - 1⁄16" Drill Bit - 5⁄64" Drill Bit

• Hobby/Rail Saw (fine tooth)

• Sanding Block

• Masking Tape

• High Wattage Soldering Iron (75W – 100W)

• 1/4—20 TAP

• 2-56 DIE: Cutting threads in Rods

• Small Clamps (~8)

WaRnInG: Do not attempt to build this kit if there are missing pages from this construction manual - including covers.


Pre-ASSembly

4

pre-assemblyBefore starting, some parts need to be pre-assembled. Assemble with wood glue the items shown here.

Ensure this is done on a flat surface. Use a steel rule as a guide ensuring the spars have a perfectly straight alignment.

Main Wing Spar (X2)Rear Wing Spar (X2)

the Wing


The WingAileronsBuild both ailerons at the same time to prevent making two left ailerons. Insert Aileron Ribs into the Aileron Spar. Do not use glue yet.

note: Be sure to align the 1/16" ply Control Rib into the Aileron Spar.

Fit the assembly over the Lower Aileron Skin.

Glue Ribs to the lower skin with CA, while on a flat surface.

Sand the trailing edge of the lower skin to a point so that the top skin will make even contact along the trailing edge.

FIG 1 FIG 2

FIG 3

Aileron SparControl Rib

Lower Aileron Skin

Aileron Rib


the Wing

6

Spread Ribs Appart

1

2

3

First install the Upper Aileron Skin onto the aileron assembly (no glue yet).

Flip the aileron assembly over. Glue trailing edge of the top skin using CA. Apply slight pressure to prevent warping. Then glue the remaining edges.

Sand the trailing edge to match the profile shown in Figure 5.

FIG 4

FIG 5

FIG 6a

The Wing CAgeFollow the sequence in the following diagrams. Familiarize yourself with each component before you commence assembling and gluing with wood glue.

Lower Aileron Skin (assembly upside-down)

Upper Aileron Skin

Rib a

the Wing


Spread Ribs Appart

1

2

3 Spread Ribs Appart

1

2

3

FIG 6B

FIG 7

Spar DoublerMove up and forward to lock.

Main SparMove up to lock.

FIG 6C


the Wing

8

MAin spArInstall with wood glue the Main Spar by inserting into the Wing Cage from below (Figure 6C). Be sure the Main Spar is perfectly aligned. Clamp and allow to fully cure before proceeding.

riBsRibs are labelled, A through G. Dry-fit all ribs into the top of the Main Spar. Rib A is part of the Wing Cage, making Rib G the last rib at the wingtip. Do not apply glue at this point.

note: Be gentle, as tolerances are extremely tight.

G

F

E

D

C

B

A

Riblet

Wingtip Rib

Riblet

the Wing


Install both Servo Trays between Rib C and Rib D on each side of the wing. You’ll have to spread the ribs apart to fit the trays in. See Figure 8.

note: Do not glue yet.

FIG 8

In order to install sticks along the wing leading edge (D-Tube), we will use the Rear Spar as a spacer-guide to hold the ribs in place.

Gently fit the slots of the Rear Spar into the leading edge of each rib. See Figure 9.

Install the 5 sticks (3/16" balsa). Note that some sticks are trimmed short at Rib C. See Figure 10.

Install a stick (3/16" balsa) along the top and bottom of the main spar. Note that the sticks join at the wing centre. Trim each to length after installing.

Glue (CA) the sticks along the wing leading edge. Be careful not to glue the Rear Spar.

Once all sticks are glued (and cured), remove Rear Spar from leading edge.

FIG 9

FIG 10


the Wing

10

Bolt Plate

Rear SparDoubler

Spread Ribs Appart

1

2

3

FIG 11

FIG 12

note: The following sequence will need to be done quickly, as glue will cure quickly from the first step.

Figure 11 shows both ribs (Rib A) will need to be spread apart in order to insert the rear plate. See Figure 11. Glue & install the Rear Plate.

Glue in the Rear Spar Doubler. Only glue the edges connected to Ribs A and A. See Figure 11.

Glue and install the Bolt Plate.

Important: Be sure not to allow the Rear Spar Doubler to move out of position: Apply tape across the Rear Spar Doubler and the Bolt Plate to ensure alignment.

note: Figure 11 & 12 shown

without sticks or ribs for clarity.

the Wing


reAr spArInstall the rear spar into the ribs and glue with wood glue. To ensure alignment, install 3/16" balsa sticks along the top and bottom of the Rear Spar — use masking tape to secure the Rear Spar against each rib until cured.

A few final sticks need to be installed. These sticks are short: One is located under the trailing edge of Rib B, crosses under the Wing Cage to the other Rib B. The other

stick crosses the top of Rib C & Rib D only — just behind the wing servo (see Figure 10). This stick must not protrude above the rib edge, as that would force laminar separation, stalling the wing prematurely.

With sticks in place, use CA glue to secure all ribs, sticks, and spars. Be careful how you handle the wing while you glue, as unnecessary twisting will be locked into the wing.

Locate the 8 triangular Riblets and install 4 behind each side of the Rear Spar. Wick-in CA to glue. See Figure 13 & 14.

note: The last Riblet position is located next to Rib G.

FIG 13

FIG 14


the Wing

12

WingTipsSand the outer face of Rib G to ensure all sticks are flush.

Locate the 4 Wingtip Spars. Dry-fit each into the end of Rib G. Figure 15.

Install the Wingtip Rib into Rib G over the Wingtip Spars. Glue with CA once alignment is satisfactory. Figure 16.

FIG 15 FIG 16

sheeTingSheeting the wing is a simple process. The only consideration that’s needed, is to allow a small lip along Rib A so the centre sheeting has someplace to perch (both sheets sharing a rib).

Install 1/16" sheeting from the main spar to the leading edge (top). Glue with CA and trim the leading edge flush with the leading edge stick. See Figure 17. Perform the same procedure for the lower side of the D-tube.

Warning: Once the lower sheeting is applied, the D-Tube will be locked. Be absolutely sure the wing rests even on a flat surface. There’s no dihedral in this wing, so a large glass surface will allow you to see if any deflection has been introduced in the wing. The Main Spar has holes cut into it: This allows builders to glue parts of the leading edge sheeting, locking the D-Tube. The builder can then drip-in CA glue where each rib contacts the sheeting. All builders have their own sheeting method. However, it’s recommended the Main Spar edge is glued first, allowing the leading edge to stay open enough to insert CA with a fine nozzle.

Once D-Tube is completed, sand the leading edge round so that the leading edge 3/16" stick is almost exposed.

FIG 17

the Wing


Sheet upper and lower centre sections (between D-tubes). FIG 18

Install sheeting on the lower half of the trailing edge. Allow sheeting to overhang by 3/16" past the end point of the ribs. This sheeting covers from Rib C across to Rib C only, and does not extent past the Rear Spar. Glue with CA. See Figure 19.

Turn over the wing: Sand the trailing edge of the sheeting to match the top angle of the ribs. See Figure 20.

FIG 19

FIG 20


the Wing

14

After the lower sheeting has been installed, cut a piece of scrap sheeting to 7/16" X 2.5". Position this upright behind the Rear Spar stick (just behind the Bolt Plate). See Figure 21. Glue in with CA.

note: Items removed from drawing for clarity.

1/16" Balsa1/16" Balsa

FIG 21

Sheet the top half of the trailing edge with sheeting that extends 3/16" past the sheeting of the lower side. Glue with CA. Sand trailing edge of upper sheeting to match the profile shown in Figure 22.

FIG 22

the Wing


Using a knife, carefully cut a square opening in the sheeting between both Ribs A — over the bolt plate. The opening cannot extend further than the rear spar doubler or past the the scrap upright sheeting installed earlier. (Figure 23a & 23b)

Cut a piece of sheeting to fit between Rib C and Rib G at a width of 1⅛". (Figure 24)

Using a sanding block, profile one edge of the sheeting to match the angle of the riblets. See Figure 25. Install with CA.

FIG 23a FIG 23B

FIG 24

FIG 25


the Wing

16

Using a knife, cut an opening inline with the exit hole of the Rear Spar. See Figure 26 & 27.

FIG 26 FIG 27

FIG 27

TrAiling edgeCut a strip of sheeting 1½" x 15⅜". Place strip over the top of the Rear Spar and the trailing edge of the sheeting installed in the previous step.You will need to cut a notch in the corner for Rib G. See Figure 28 & 29. Install with CA.

FIG 28

FIG 29

the Wing


Using a sanding block, sand the lower lip of the trailing edge to a point as shown in Figure 30.

FIG 30

Cut a strip of sheeting 5/16" wide, to fit between Rib C and Rib G. Glue over the lower edge of the Rear Spar. (Arrow A of Figure 31 )

Cut a section of ¼" triangle stick to the same length, and install with CA behind the lower Rear Spar. (Arrow B of Figure 31 ) Perform light sanding around all joints, as covering is the next step.

a

B

FIG 31


Covering the Wing

18

Covering The WingIt's not our policy to recommend or insist the builder use a particular product when building our models. That said, this situation is different. We ask the builder to use Ultracote/Oracover film. The properties of this covering are such that its mechanical strength and flexibility support the methods of construction and operation of this craft. Other covering products may compromise critical joins and skin properties specific to the function of this craft. Servos specified in this kit are matched according to mechanical loads and stresses imposed by the design of this craft. The builder may choose alternate equipment, so long as the torque specification is equal or greater than that specified in this kit.

Time to cover the ailerons. It’s best to cover each aileron with one piece of covering — with the joint along the Aileron Spar. Once covered, cut open the access area for the Control Rib.

Install the two wing servos [Hitec HS-225MG]. The servos only fit one way (with the wire aligned with the notch opening). Cut the supplied 2-56 threaded rod to 3¾". On the non-threaded side, solder a 2-56 Solder Link (provided). On the threaded side, install a 2-56 clevis (black). See Figure 32.

FIG 32

The covering scheme shown in this manual does not have to be followed by the builder. However, the light passing trough the transparent wing section lights up the Main Spar, making orientation very visible when flying under a cloudy sky. Because transparent covering looks better

tucked under solid coloured covering, it will need to be applied first. However, due to the Aileron hinge method used, covering must be applied to the trailing edge of the wing first. To clarify this arrangement, creating the aileron hinge will now be discussed.

Covering the Wing


Aileron hingeFor maximum durability and performance, the aileron hinge is made of Ultracote. The principal of this type of hinge requires two sections of covering to seal the hinge point between the wing and the aileron. The two layers of covering (over and under the joint) touch in the middle. When this happens, the hinge becomes air-tight, extremely strong, and very durable. For this to work, the hinge cannot contact bare wood. The hinge must be applied after the wing and ailerons are fully covered. For this reason, the example shown here (using a transparent section) required a portion of the wing to be covered first. While this seems simple, we will want to avoid cutting open the covering if a servo adjustment is needed. Therefore, the wing is only partially covered — allowing full access to the servo while the hinge is installed.

In the following images, you will see the transparent covering applied to just the Rear Spar. Solid covering was then applied over the trailing edge of the wing — overlapping the transparent covering to give a very clean appearance.

Using masking tape, secure each aileron along the trailing edge (without the servo control rods installed in the wing). There must be ~1mm gap between the aileron and the trailing edge of the wing. Using a knife, cut two sections of covering 1" deep and equal in width to that of the aileron.

Apply the top strip of covering over the joint — avoiding the masking tape. Once the Aileron is supported by the strip, remove the masking tape and complete the ironing process.

FIG 33

FIG 34


Covering the Wing

20

Flip the wing over and apply the second strip of covering. Be sure you are able to see the 1mm bulge of covering along the joint — you want to make sure contact between both strips takes place along the full width of the hinge.

FIG 35

FIG 36Once complete, connect the Aileron control rod to the Control Rib of the Aileron and the Servo.

Temporarily connect your radio to the servo and set the rest position of the servo arm at 90˚ to the Control Rod. Be sure to use clevis keepers or heat-shrink tubing to secure the links.

Once the aileron can function without adjustment, cover the remaining wing.

note: The upper stick over the Aileron servo is there to provide a service window. If a servo needs to be replaced or adjusted, simply cut open the covering over the servo. This will allow you to apply only a small patch of covering afterwards.

The leads of the Aileron Servos are to follow a circular opening in each rib (along the bottom of the Main Spar). Standard length servo leads will allow you enough wire to reach the openings at the centre of the wing. It’s recommended that both servo leads are tied together either with shrink tubing or a zip-tie.

fuSelAge


FuselageTAilLocate the two ruddervators as well as the upper and lower laser-cut sheeting for them. See Figure 37.

There’s a difference between the upper and lower sheeting: the upper sheeting has a curved inner profile. Be careful not to make two left ruddervators.

Using wood glue, glue the upper and lower skins to the ruddervators. See Figure 38.

note: Be careful not to get glue on the areas where sheeting is not contacting. Do not glue the Ruddervators together.

Once sheeting has been applied, stack both ruddervators with flat and even pressure on them to prevent curling as they dry (pile books on them for 1 hour).

FIG 37

FIG 38


fuSelAge

22

This section will proceed very quickly. It’s

recommended you follow the fuselage assembly

process without glue first as a way to familiarize

yourself with the assembly sequence.

Disassemble and start again with glue.

Using the recommended glue (2002GF) assembly must go quickly as this glue sets in just 15min. Many of the formers require “lifting” to join with the next former, therefore quick hands will prevent the glue from setting before all fuselage formers are in place.

Glue F1B with nose gear plates. Figure 39 & 40.

Glue this assembly into the fuselage side wall. Figure 41.

FIG 39

FIG 40

FIG 41

fuSelAge


Glue lower magnet plate and Servo Tray into F2.

F2 is symmetrical, so it doesn’t matter which side you choose.

note: Pay attention to the orientation of the

magnet plate and the Servo Tray. These are

non-symmetrical Follow orientation in Figure 43.

FIG 42

FIG 43

FIG 44Glue this assembly into the fuselage while installing the Battery Tray. See Figure 44.

note: The orientation of the non-symmetrical

Battery Tray.

Battery Tray


fuSelAge

24

note: Quickly do the following without interruption.

Glue in the receiver tray into F2 and the Fuselage wall. (Figure 45)

Glue F3 behind the receiver tray, along with the Fuse Plate into F3, then into the fuselage wall before F3 cures. (Figure 46)

Glue F4 & F5 into the Fuse Plate and then into the fuselage wall before the Fuse Plate cures. (Figure 47)

Dryfit the second fuselage wall into place to allow all parts to cure straight. Place very large books over the side of the Fuselage: insuring even cure.

FIG 45

FIG 46

FIG 47

It will become apparent how often

it’s required to lift the previous part

away form the fuselage wall in order to

insert the next part.

Once the fuselage assembly has cured, remove the temporary fuselage wall and reapply with wood glue.

fuSelAge


Wing supporTSee Figure 48 & 49 to assemble the Wing Foot: wood glue.

Glue the Wing Foot into the forward side of F4. (Figure 50)

FIG 48

FIG 50

FIG 49


fuSelAge

26

Assemble and glue the sheeting bracket by following this photo sequence. (Figures 51 & 52)

Glue the sheeting bracket assembly into the back of F5. (Figure 53)

FIG 51

FIG 52

FIG 53

fuSelAge


Locate and install the Cable Guide under the Receiver Tray. See Figure 54.

When all fuselage parts have cured, glue and install the Tail Brace (3 pieces). See Figures 55 & 56.

FIG 54

FIG 55

FIG 56

Cable Guide


fuSelAge

28

Turn the fuselage over. Locate and glue in the F5 Baseplate. See Figure 57. FIG 57

V-TAilLocate the 2 ruddervators previously sheeted.

Apply ample glue along the tabbed edge (a) of both Ruddervators and along the edges connecting to F6 (B).

Join the two ruddervators with F6. Sit the tail on its trailing edge and make sure F6 is fully seated. Use masking tape to maintain compression on both ruddervators while curing. See Figure 58.

Once cured, sand the leading to a round profile, and the trailing edges to a pointed profile shown in Figure 59.

A

B

FIG 58 FIG 59

Baseplate

fuSelAge


FIG 60

Upper Fuse Sheet

Lower Fuse Sheet

F5 Positon F6 Positon

Locate the Upper and Lower Fuse Sheets. Dry-fit these and the Ruddervator assembly into place. (Figure 60)

Examine the Fuse Wall edges shown in Figure 60. These edges require sanding at an angle (dotted line) to support the sheeting between the Fuse Sheets, and the Fuse Wall.

Remove dry-fit assembly and sand just the Fuse Wall edges as shown in Figure 61 using a palm sander.

(Figure 61 shown with tail assembly installed for clarity)

Edge Sanding Angle (Dotted)

Sanded Edges

Lower Fuse Sheet

Lower Fuse Sheet

F6

F6

FIG 61


fuSelAge

30

Locate light plywood washer and glue it with CA, over the hole of the upper fuse sheet. (Figure 62)

Using wood glue, install the upper and lower fuse sheets and the Ruddervator assembly. Be sure the plywood washer faces inside the fuse.

Once cured, sand the edges of the upper and lower fuse sheets as shown in Figures 63, 64 & 65.

FIG 62

FIG 65

FIG 63 FIG 64

fuSelAge


Locate the two lower tail skins and glue only along the edge that will connect to the Ruddervator (Use CA glue). Place fuselage upside down over a large flat surface. If the fuselage does not sit flat, apply twisting pressure while

gluing the remaining edges of the lower tail skin with CA. Repeat for second lower tail skin.

note: Be sure to carve an opening at the end of the Lower Tail Skin to

allow the second Skin through. See Figure 67.

Lower Tail Skin

Upper Tail SkinUpper Wedge Tail Skin

FIG 67

FIG 66


fuSelAge

32

Once the lower tail skins are in place, sand the joints to create a straight edge as shown in Figure 68.

Locate the two upper tail skins. Before installing them, note that the trailing edge of each upper tail skin must be sanded to a point in order to mate correctly with the other. See Figure 69.

Once sanded, install with CA glue along the ruddervator first. Use a knife to apply pressure to the back of the skin — pushing it against the curved sheeting of the ruddervator. (Figure 70)

Sand Inside Edge

FIG 68

FIG 69

FIG 70

fuSelAge


Close remaining gaps with the laser-cut Upper Wedge Tail Skins. (Figure 71)

FIG 71

hATChLocate the 5 parts shown in Figure 72.

Dry-fit the 5 parts to become familiar with the sequence of the assembly. Test fit the assembly by inserting into the fuselage. I may become apparent that glue between joints of the fuselage prevent the hatch free movement. Use a knife to remove excess glue blocking the hatch movement.

Assemble with wood glue all parts to match Figure 73. The assembly will be placed into the fuselage to allow accurate alignment while curing. Be careful not to allow glue to contact the fuselage.

Once the hatch has cured, remove it from the fuselage using a knife.

FIG 72

FIG 73


fuSelAge

34

Locate the 4 supplied magnets (in an envelope).

Install 2 magnets into the Magnet Plate of the fuselage. See Figure 74.

Be sure the magnets are perfectly flush. Apply CA glue to the magnets to lock them into place. Allow time for the CA to completely cure.

Place the last 2 magnets over the first 2 ensuring correct polarity. See Figure 75.

Install the Hatch over the magnets. Using needle-nose pliers, force the hatch down by squeezing both magnet plates together — pushing the magnets into the hatch.

Remove hatch containing the magnets and apply CA glue.

pro Tip: It’s good practice to have one set

of magnets protrude slightly. When the hatch

is covered, it may prevent the magnets from

making full contact.

FIG 74

FIG 75

fuSelAge


Locate the two laser-cut square sheets of 3/32" balsa. Glue them over the top of the Hatch with CA. See Figure 76.

Once cured, you can test fit the Hatch in the Fuselage. If it’s found that slight binding prevents the Hatch from easy movement, lightly sand areas of the hatch until the Hatch “snaps” in with ease.

FIG 76

The MAin lAnding geArThe following sequence requires quick assembly while gluing.

Locate the 3 parts shown in Figure 77. With the fuselage upside down, Glue Parts A & B into the lower side of the Servo Tray. These can only fit one way.

Glue Part C into the Fuse Floor as shown in Figure 78.

FIG 77

FIG 78

C

C

Fuse Floor

AB

Position

A

B


fuSelAge

36

Coat the centre area of the Main Gear with ample wood glue. Insert the Main Gear into the slot behind Part B, and glue the Fuse Floor in (ensuring that Part C goes into the slot of the Main Gear).

Ample Wood Glue

Apply masking tape while curing to maintain pressure on the main landing gear joint. See Figure 80.

note: The Main Gear wire must be installed so

that the wires are pointing aft, not forward.

FIG 79

FIG 80

fuSelAge


Once the Fuse Floor has cured, install the wing into fuselage. This will require you to open up a hole in the sheeting under the Wing Bolt Plate.

Using a ¼-20 tap, cut a thread through the hole in the wing — into the Wing Foot. See Figure 81.

Install the supplied ¼-20 nylon bolt tightly.

Wing sAddleLocate the two Saddle Strips. Position a Saddle Strip over the wing against the Fuselage, ensuring no gap. See Figure 82.

Apply a single drop of CA to the front and to the back of the Saddle Strip, making sure not to glue the wing to the fuselage.

Remove the wing and apply ample CA glue to secure the Saddle Strips.

Once cured, sand both ends of each Saddle Strip to a point as shown in Figure 83.

FIG 81

FIG 82

FIG 83


equiPment

38

EquipmentserVosInstall the two main servos into the servo tray as shown in Figure 84.

Servo leads must exit through the port-side opening of servo tray into the upper opening of F2 (just under the magnet plate). See Figure 85.

note: It is strongly recommended that Hitec HS-322HD servos are used. These have gearing

construction that provides almost zero lash,

and material construction that will survive the

unique punishment this kit will receive. The zero

lash specification is required to manage the

critical positioning of the elevator.

FIG 84

FIG 85

equiPment


2

3

4

1

OptionalSpacer

OptionalSpacer

F1A

F1A

MoTor MounTsThere are two motor mounting options. Rear Mounted and Face Mounted. For the face mounting option, examine the assembly sequence below.

note: There are optional spacers for each mounting

type, extending the reach of the motor slightly.

Face Mount option


equiPment

40

2

3

4

1

OptionalSpacer

OptionalSpacer

F1A

F1A

Once the chosen motor mount is assembled, Install with wood glue and clamp. See Figure 86.

note: Any dried glue in the corners of F1B and the Fuse Sidewalls

will need to be cleaned out for proper installation of F1A.

FIG 86

speed ConTroller (esC)Install the ESC (60A) by threading in the signal wire first — through the side opening of the servo tray. Push the power connector up through the teardrop hole so the connector aligns with the shape of the opening. See Figure 87.

Install Battery straps into the battery tray with the buckles on the starboard side and tighten the straps.

Push the ESC all the way into the lower fuse opening and thread each motor lead through the crescent opening of the firewall. Connect the leads to the motor and temporarily connect the ESC to a receiver. Test to ensure the motor is turning in the correct direction: Switch any two leads to change the direction if needed.

Pull each lead into the fuse until the slack is taken up. Be sure to tuck the leads along the starboard side of the ESC Bay, as the steering arm for the Nose Gear will need operating room on the port side.

FIG 87

Rear Mount option

equiPment


ConTrol CABlesLocate supplied cable housing (yellow). Cut two pieces 11¾" long, and one piece 9" long. See Figure88.

Install the 9" cable housing into the middle opening of F3 and F4. The forward-end position should be ¼" back from F2. Secure with CA but do not apply glue to the cable guide (See Fig 91).

FIG 88

Connect two extension leads to the receiver. These will go to the wing. Connect the remaining ESC plus main servo leads to the receiver.

Wrap the receiver with a receiver blanket or bubble-wrap and install the receiver just behind F2 as shown in Figure 89 & 90. Secure the receiver using rubber bands as shown in Figure 91.

FIG 89 FIG 90

FIG 91 Do NOT Glue here


equiPment

42

Using the supplied cable, solder one end into a supplied solder-link. Trim the cable so that the total length (including the solder link) will be 11½".

Apply a thin coating of solder to the end of the cable (tinning), and slide the tinned end into the cable housing and connect the solder link to the V-tail servo (starboard servo).

At this time, cover the V-tail Fuselage area & Ruddervators with Ultracote.

With the remaining cable, solder a solder-link onto one end. Trim cable to a total length of 14¾" (including the solder link). Repeat this step for the second V-tail control.

Tin the ends of both cables.

Using an X-acto knife, cut a lateral slit through the covering, opening the cable holes in the upper tail skin. See Figure 92.

Locate the remaining two cable housings and insert each into the hole for the cable holes. See Figure 93.

FIG 92

FIG 93

equiPment


V-TAil ConTrol surfACesUsing the supplied balsa elevator stock, cut two pieces, each 12" long. One end of each piece must be cut at 5˚ as shown in Figure 94. Cover each elevator with Ultracote, leaving the square end exposed.

Locate the V-tail control horns and glue each onto the exposed end of the elevators. Be sure not to make two left elevators. See Figure 95.

5˚

12"

Do not coverthis end

note: Read all steps in this procedure before

beginning the hinges.

This procedure is similar to that of the ailerons.

To make the V-tail hinges, cut four strips of Ultracote, 1" x 12".

Iron one strip along the trailing edge of the Ruddervator so that ½" of the covering is left hanging over the trailing edge. Position the V-tail control surface behind (touching) the trailing edge at an angle of approximately 50˚ (steep angle). See Figure 96.

Iron the loose covering over the control surface. Now deflect the control surface the opposite way and apply another 1"x12" strip of Ultracote in the same manner. The covering from both sides must touch each other in the middle.

FIG 94

FIG 95

FIG 96


equiPment

44

Using scrap balsa sticks, brace the V-tail control surfaces level as shown in Figure 97. Install the two 14¾" cables into their housings and connect them to the control horns with keepers attached.

FIG 97

Set the elevator servo to the neutral position. The unsoldered cables should converge as shown in Figure 98A.

Between F4 and F5, solder the three control cables to each other, as shown in Figure 98B. Once soldered, remove the braces from the control surfaces.

FIG 98B

FIG 98a

noSe geAr


nose GearInstall the supplied nose gear through the Fuselage Floor plate so that the spring coil is almost touching the plate. See Figure 99.

With a permanent marker, mark the point where the nose gear enters the battery bay. See Figure 100.

Cut the nose gear on mark.

FIG 99

FIG 100

FIG 101Locate supplied steering arm and trim it so that there are only two holes remaining. See Figure 101.


noSe geAr

46

Using the diagram below (actual size), bend a section of threaded rod to match. Use a solder link and a clevis at either end of this steering link.

Solder Link

Clevis

Remove the servo arm from the nose gear servo. Connect it to the clevis of the steering link.

Connect the steering arm to the solder link end. See Figure 102. Be sure the orientation of all parts match that of Figure 102.

Insert the steering link through the large opening of the battery bay floor so that the steering arm goes between both Nose Gear Plates.

Be sure the hole in the steering arm lines up with the holes in the nose gear plate.

Reinsert the nose gear and tighten the bolts using a hex key. See Figure 103.

FIG 102

FIG 103

actual Size

Covering noteS


Covering notesThe side fuselage covering does not touch the sides of the fuselage above the Saddle Strips. This area simply drapes over the area between the top edge of the Fuselage and the Saddle Strips.

The Hatch should contain a tab of covering to open with. Simply cut a strip of covering ½" wide 1½" long. Fold it in half, then iron it over the top trailing edge of the Hatch so that it sticks out. (See images on right)

The canopy is trimmed from a square section of clear lexan. Trim the canopy so that ¼" of flat lip surrounds the canopy bubble. Trace a tear-drop profile of the canopy onto paper and use it as a guide when cutting a section of black covering.

Apply the tear-drop section of black covering onto the fuselage and iron. To secure the canopy, trim a strip of ¼" covering ~ 14" long. Carefully iron the edges of the canopy using the strip of covering.

Alternatively, you can mask part of the canopy needing to remain clear, and paint the edge to match the fuselage. Then install the canopy using clear silicone sealer.

Tab

104 Malcolm St.Almonte, Ontario,

CanadaK0A 1A0

613-256-0008

© 2004-2016 MosquitoBite PlanesAll Rights Reserved

www.mosquitobiteplanes.com

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