Rock Climbing Rock Climbing Rock Climbing is inherently
dangerous!! Proper safety technique is mandatory!!Rock ClimbingRock
Climbing
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TYPES OF CLIMBING: 1. BOULDERING: Climbing on large rocks
without ropes. Dont climb higher than you want to fall.
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2. SOLOING: (AKA: High Balling) Like bouldering, but you go a
lot higher. If you fall, you die!! The Ascent of Alex Honnold More
Alex Honnold
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3. TOP ROPING: Rope is anchored to a tree or boulder at the top
of the cliff. Very safe if done properly!!! Belayer pulls up the
slack when the climber goes up.
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4. LEAD CLIMBING: Both the climber and the rope start at the
bottom. As the climber goes up, he/she places Protection and
connects the rope to it. * Climber will fall Twice the distance
from the last protection.
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Two Categories of Lead Climbing: A. Sport. Preset bolts &
anchors B. TRAD. Traditional. You set nuts, bolts as you
ascend.
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5. Deep Water Soloing
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6. Aid Climbing : Need equipment to climb. Usually no hand/foot
holds.
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7. MOUNTAINEERING: Combination of winter camping and rock
climbing. Usually hike for a while, but eventually climb snow/ice
cliffs.
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8. RAPELLING: A self belay down a climb.
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Rock Climbing Equipment: Strength measured in Kilo Newton 1 KN
= 225 lbs
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1. HARNESS: DIAPER: Fits around legs and waist. Thumbs Check!!
BUCKLE MUST BE DOUBLED BACK /OR PREDOUBLED BACK!!! 20 KN
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2. ROPE: Dynamic!!! It stretches. KERN MANTLE: Inner nylon core
with nylon mesh. 30 KN
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ROPE CARE: 1.NEVER STEP ON ROPE. 2. NEVER LEAVE IN THE SUN. 3.
KEEP AWAY FROM PETROLEUM PRODUCTS. 4. AVOID NYLON ON NYLON. 5.USE
PROPER REPEL AND BELAY TECHNIQUE.
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3. TUBULAR WEBBING : Used for anchoring top rope and belayer.
Used to make slings, and swami belts. 18 KN
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WATER KNOT USED TO TIE TWO ENDS OF WEBBING TOGETHER TO MAKE A
LOOP. USED FOR AND ANCHOR OR SWAMI BELT.
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Daisy Chain: The proper way to store webbing.
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4. CARABINERS: Large metal clips used to attach rope, harness.
23 KN A. O Shaped: Weight in middle: B. D Shaped: Strongest, Weight
on edge C. Locking: Locking gate prevents it from opening up.
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5. FRICTION DEVICES: Used to prevent a rapid decent of the
climber. (used by the belayer). 1. TUBULAR: Most common(two holes):
Pyramid, ATC, Tango. 2. FIGURE EIGHT: Belaying or repelling 3.
BELAY PLATE / STICHT PLATE: Good for two ropes 4. LOCK: Gri
Gri
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6. PROTECTION: A device that is placed in a crack which
provides an anchor or attachment. (aka; Chocks, Friends) A) CHOCKS:
(aka: Nuts, Stopper)
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B) FRIENDS: Cam device expands in a crack to provide an
anchor.
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7. FOOTWEAR: A). SHOES: Very uncomfortable, made for climbing,
not walking. * RAND: Sticky rubber. Grips rocks well.
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B). BOOTS: For Mountaineering. Stiff soles, insulated. Crampons
for traction on glacier.
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RATING CLIMBS: Based on the most difficult pitch of the climb.
YDS: Yosemite Decimal System: CLASS 1: Walking. no special
equipment or technique CLASS 2: Rolling hills. CLASS 3. CLIMBING:
Steep hill, slide down. SCRAMBLING CLASS 4: EXPOSED CLIMBING: A
fall could be fatal. A rope and belay are advisable.
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CLASS 5: DIFFICULT FREE CLIMBING: Protection, anchors are
needed for the leader. 5.0 Very easy. 5.5 - 5.6 Average
difficultly. 5.10 Very difficult. Need talent or skill to climb.
5.14 Youre awesome if you can climb it. CLASS 6: AIDED CLIMBING:
The rope and anchors are used for assistance in moving upward.
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TIE -INS: CLIMBING ROPE SHOULD USE A FIGURE 8 KNOT FOLLOWED
BACK TO TIE INTO THE HARNESS. NO CARABINERS SHOULD BE USED FOR THE
CLIMBER.
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How to BELAY!! The most important part of Rock Climbing!!!
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Brake hand palm down.
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TBUS Take Brake Under Slide
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Now are we ready to Climb???
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NO! Must do a 5 Point Check (Funnel: Start wide) ClimberBelayer
Harness Above hips? Yup. Harness Above hips? Back up Belayer Looks
Good.
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Verbal & Visual Check (Funnel) ClimberBelayer Doubled Back?
Yes, RU Doubled Back? Back up Belayer Hey, Make sure you check the
leg loops!!!
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HARD POINTS Where the rope is tiedand the carabineer is
attached ClimberBelayer Yup, ropes is tied into the proper point
HARD POINTS Back up Belayer Looks Good.
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Figure 8 knot / beaner locked? ClimberBelayer Lets see your
knot. 2,4,6,8, perfect 10 Carabineer locked? Back up Belayer Your
guys rock!!
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ATC check ClimberBelayer Rope inside carabineer Lets see your
belay device Back up Belayer
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NOW ARE WE READY TO CLIMB???
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NO!!! VERBAL CONTRACT ClimberBelayer Please sign the dotted
line before I climb!!! Lets just have a verbal contract.
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Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer On Belay? Belay On. (I will
not let go of the rope until you tell me to )
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Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer Ready to Climb. Climb On.
