Here Comes the HotstepperHe has always delved deep into heritage to come up with designs rooted in the past yet aligned to the present. And so when he says that the essence of Indian dressing rests in traditional styles as visible in the heartlands of rural India, it is no surprise. This “Master of Fabric and Fantasy” is working to introduce a line of bags, and a collection of shoes is on the anvil. He talks to S&A about what the fashion industry is crying for and of course allows a peek into his personal style of dressing.

My Plans for Indian FashionMy plans are to start doing bags and footwear. In fact, we are already in the process of crafting a collection of bags with my friends, who are selling at my stores. I'd like to do more bags and some shoes from Italy.

My Targets By 2020I'd like to be selling in about 40 different cities. I'd like to own about 250 stores. And I'd like to have the common man wearing my clothes, bags and shoes.

My StyleStyle is forever. It is a very strong sense of individuality which expresses itself in almost everything that you do. It is an inherent part of you, irreplaceable and forever.

If I Could Change Some Things in the Fashion BusinessThe taxation system is extremely difficult to work with. It's not the amount of money that you're investing, it's the process which is very cumbersome. I hope the government realises that the fashion industry is not making money and that it (government) is making it almost imposssible for us to exist. The second thing I would like to change, is the retail spaces which are extremely expensive. The government should start supporting the fashion industry. Other countries have done it everywhere but India has a government which has not really backed Indian fashion. Thirdly, the government needs to subsidise the fashion industry – it needs to be sponsored, needs to be looked after and nurtured by the ministry of textiles. And it need not be on an individual level, it could be on a mass level where there could be revival of khadi and other textiles of Indian origin.

Footwear FundasI am not much into Indian footwear brands. I personally do not like them much. However, I buy a lot of beachwear from the flea markets of Goa. For me wearing sandals, chappals and beachwear is wonderful. I also like kolhapuri chappals and buy them from Delhi's Janpath market. I love wearing juttis and buy them from all over Rajasthan and Gujarat.

My Casual DaywearI mostly wear Tod's, and also moccasins or loafers.

For Formal OccasionsI like to wear black shoes or very dark brown shoes for formal occasions . The black shoes I usually sport are in the category of what you would call formal tie-ups and these could be brands like Corneliani. I also like shoes from Gucci. And then there are exquisite black shoes from Tom Ford.

Accessories – My StyleI don't really accessorise myself much. I am not into jewellery. Apart from watches and shoes, the only other accessory that I wear is a scarf. When it comes to wristwear, Breitling and some watches by Omega and Tag Heuer make the cut. If you would like to go over the top then I like Franck Muller. The scarves could be by any Indian textile company or they could be Hermes.

Wallet LoverI don't use wallets. I don't carry any cash. I only carry credit cards which I like to keep in my money book by Louis Vuitton.

Pocket Fundas – My Accessory ExpenseI spend lots and lots of money on shoes as that's the only accessory that I buy.

footnote Rohit Bal

100 SHOES & ACCESSORIES / july 2012

Shopping HubsWithin the country, I like to shop at some of the designer stores, at the DLF Emporio in Delhi, at Diesel and I also love Zara and Paul Smith. I think one can wear Zara everyday. Then there are some designers like Rajesh Pratap Singh (if his clothes fit me, because normally they are a little big!) from whom I like to buy. The other one is Abraham & Thakore who also make some of the most beautiful clothes. Outside India, Milan is my favourite shopping destination. And of course the flea markets. They are all over Europe.

Eyewear FundasI wear only Rayban. I am an out-and-out a Rayban person. They are the nicest and they make everyone look nice.

My Fave Wardrobe PieceIt is perhaps the first Breitling watch that I bought in 1982 or 1983. I cherish it a lot because it was bought with a lot of love. It was very expensive and I didn't have that kind of money, but I saved and saved and bought it.

Footwear – Now and ThenThe change in Indian footwear fashion has been immense since the time I launched. We have progressed from an almost non-existent shoe society to a society obsessed with shoes. We have gone from non-availability to an overkill, not only in terms of the international brands which have come into the country but also domestic brands which have been laying emphasis on shoes as a category and have positioned it as the most important single accessory for both men and women.

Indian Footwear – My ColourI can't pinpoint one particular colour because our country is all colour. There is no specific colour that I would like to mention because I can envision almost every colour and shade in Indian footwear. But typically, shoes in gold and silver have always been popular. Besides, champagne is a colour which I also think is very popular.

Indian Accessory – My DesignThe accessories available today are not up to the mark. The only thing that I would recommend is traditional Indian jewellery, be it for men or women. For women, I'd like to recommend some beautiful head ornaments which are not worn anymore. Another

accessory which looks pretty is the paraandi. For men, it could be minakaari or enamel-work cufflinks and brooches.

Celebrities I Love Working WithThat would be definitely Arjun Rampal. Everything that one does looks amazing on him. I just did his couture for the 65th Cannes Film Festival. He looked spectacular. He has been on my ramp show for so many times and each time I think it has to be Arjun Rampal.

Celebrities I'd Like to Dress UpIt would be Johnny Depp and Ashton Kutcher among the male stars. Among the women, it has to be Jennifer Aniston.

Three Indian Footwear Designers I have WornI have worn Rajesh Pratap Singh sandals and that is it.

If I Could Change Three Things in IndiaI would ban all synthetic fabrics. I would ban polyester and nylon because they are not meant for the Indian climate, and besides they are not good to look at. I would want everyone to wear pure khadi, organic cotton, muslin, linen. Second thing I would like to change is pretentious urban dressing. I think the pure beauty of clothing and accessorisation lies in the authenticity of our rural India. If everyone dresses like the rural Indians, we would be the best dressed nation in the world. We have tried to imbibe this hideous modern, western culture and we are trying to destroy the beauty of Indian rural costumes. I'd like to definitely change that. The third thing I'd like to change is the general Indian attitude. The attitude of the basic Indian person is not inclined towards fashion. Even if it is inclined, it is either too much or too less. I'd like to bring in a balance and tell people “Be Indian. Being Indian is beautiful”.

Indian Designerwear TodayI would sum it up as a cottage industry. It has not grown beyond that.

Indian Designerwear by 2020To be honest, I don’t know. But I am hoping, on a global scale, that Indian fashion could become a big global brand and also definitely become more organised. Finally, I'd hope that the Indian fashion industry makes some money.

As told to Bhavya Misra

101july 2012 / SHOES & ACCESSORIES