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Sao Miguel: An enchanting island for whale-
watching and horsing around
Animal magic in the Azores: Sao Miguel is anenchanting island for whale-watching and horsingaround
By Laura PowellUpdated: 14:03, 9 March 2011
Sea-sickness tablets swallowed; waterproofs on. We stumble into a glorified dinghy, straddle aninflatable bench and cling on for dear life.
‘Everyone ready?’ asks Skipper. Well, no. Not really. Then we’re off, accelerating from 0-to-50knots as fast as you can scream: ‘SOS!’
Twenty minutes later, the boat is tossing around black Atlantic waves and the island is a greensmudge on the horizon.
Tranquil: The Sete Cidades Lakes on the island of Sao Miguel in the Azores offer breath-takingviews
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Locals call it ‘Green Island’, but it’s actually Sao Miguel and is the largest and most populous ofthe nine Azorean Islands.
It’s somewhere north-east of Bermuda, west of Lisbon, too eastern to squeeze on a NorthAmerican map, and probably too far into the Atlantic to appear on a European one (even thoughthe Azores is technically a Portuguese archipelago) — and four hours by plane from London.
Until the early 15th century — when Portuguese families emigrated there with sheep and goats intow — Sao Miguel was a Robinson Crusoe-type outpost. Early sailors en route to the New Worldused it as a stepping stone, but today its population is 140,000 — plus one cow to every person.
Relaxing: With a population of only 140,000 (and one cow per person), Sao Miguel is great toexplore
I’d never heard of it, but I still signed up for a riding holiday in the Azores. It is also a whale-watching hub — which is why I ended up bobbing on a motorised dinghy with 14 excited whale-watchers and an awful lot of sea-sickness.
First, Skipper doled out anatomical diagrams of whales (to distinguish a blue from a beaked, forexample) and said we ‘might’ see one.
He didn’t warn us about the spray that would blast our faces, how our bottoms would ache as theboat mounted each colossal swell, or how our eyes would level with the waves one second, cloudsthe next.
My 60-something neighbour clutches his stomach. ‘Are you OK?’ asks Skipper. ‘No, I’m not,’comes the reply.
Then, half-an-hour out, some of us find our sea legs. The radio crackles, Skipper swerves left,then stops. ‘Over there! Whale!’ Twelve heads turn (all except two sickly men). I look, too. Surelyno whale can be worth the nausea?
Thirty-five yards from the boat is a waterfall of spray. Then a hulk of smooth grey blubber breaksthe surface. Adrenaline pumps. You can hear involuntary gushes and sighs. ‘Wow!’ I breathe, inspite of myself. It is worth it.
This is the first of three breathtaking encounters with mother and calf sperm whales off the coast
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of Sao Miguel — and the beginning of a love affair with an island that seems never to have grownup.
Picture the Scottish Highlands, wind back the clock 70 years, warm the temperature to 20c andyou’re starting to get the feel for time-warped Sao Miguel.
Narrow paths weave between wildflower fields and stone ruins of what were once chocolate-boxhouses. Tea plantations of orange pekoe (an aromatic black tea) sprawl over hills — they alsogrow pineapples and sugar beet.
Farmers (more than half the population works the land) drag hand-operated milking machinesafter cows, while less wealthy goat farmers live in corrugated metal shacks in fields.
The air is thick with the smell of eucalyptus. Which all begins to explain why Sao Miguel is bestexplored lazily on horseback.
Lazing saddles: The perfect way to explore the Sete Cidades lakes
I was staying at Quinta da Terca, a guesthouse-stable with 33 horses in Livramento, a forestyparish in Sao Miguel’s capital, Ponta Delgada. Horses and holiday-makers are paired carefully bySwedish owner Christina de Laval, who doubles as head chef.
Meals are good quality rustic fare: spiced broths, exquisite steak au poivre and cinnamon tartsfor supper; frittatas and rainbow-bright salads for lunch, served in a converted stable withvintage car memorabilia tacked to the walls.
Fifteen hours of horseriding are programmed into my week. My seven fellow holidaymakers, allhardened riders, are partnered with nimble horses while, as a novice (I’d never even sat on ahorse before), I am given chubby, docile Chicco.
After learning to tack up (clumsily) and balance (precariously) on Chicco, we follow guide Lise toMata Santa (Holy Wood), named after an old woman who is said to have fled here to escape herviolent husband, and survived on vegetation, while concocting love potions from plants.
Lise points out her tomb surrounded by wild red peonies. I try not to topple off Chicco.
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Inspirational: The two turquoise lakes can be travelled around on horseback
By day six, wobbling becomes trotting. I’m partnered with leaner, speedier Thor, and Lise thinksI’m ready to canter.
‘Why is he named after the God of Thunder?’ I ask. She grins. I cling on to Thor’s mane, positionmy legs and yell: ‘Gallop!’
Three gallops later, I’m ready to join the other holidaymakers for a day-long hack in SeteCidades, an area defined by a huge volcanic crater, with twin turquoise lakes at its centre. Aphotograph of the view here is what inspired my trip.
The ride stretches around the cliffs, down to the lake where lunch is served on tables set withflowers.
Between rides, tour guide Ricardo shuttles me to landmarks such as Furnas Valley, a volcaniccrater with bubbling hot springs, and a botanical garden with a huge thermal mud-brown spring.
At lunch we sample cozido, a local casserole made by steaming vegetables (yams, carrots,cabbage) and meat (chicken, beef, blood sausage) in huge earthen pots underground for sevenhours. Some apparently say the eggy sulphur smell lingers, but I found cozido delicious.
Final stop is Nossa Senhora da Paz, a tiny whitewashed chapel perched atop a hill, reached by atiled staircase.
The story goes that when an earthquake destroyed nearby Vila Franca do Campo in 1522, all thatwas left of the church was a tiny Virgin Mary doll, which is enshrined in a cabinet outside thischapel.
From here, the view is endless turquoise Atlantic. Half of you wants to shout from the hilltops,but the other half wants to keep this secret Peter Pan island just that.
Travel facts
In The Saddle (01299 272 997, inthesaddle.com) has seven nights at Quinta da Terca from
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£814pp taking the Learn To Ride Week programme.
Price includes transfers, full-board accommodation, drinks with dinner, 15 hours of ridingtuition and non-riding excursions (sata.pt).
Flights from London Gatwick to Ponta Delguda from £293. Whale-watching (bluetalassa.com).
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