Selections # 24

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Show them how wellyou know themCustomize your gift with any product From C & F

With this very personal nature of beauty care in mind, C&F has created the hand picked gift box so you can offer your loved ones something you know they will truly appreciate. The special people in your life your friends, family and partner can experience the excitement of opening a box that has been composed especially for them.

Whether you know their favourite brands already, or whether you feel like matching their style with products from around the store, you can be sure youll get a smile when they discover the treats that await them in your tailored set of festive beauty indulgence, especially designed with only them in mind.

Every one of us has a unique beauty regime and we each have our own special ways of indulging ourselves. That gloriously rich cream that makes our skin feel radiant; that deepest red lipstick; that sweet smelling body scrub followed by an exquisite new body oil.

Those of us who understand what it is to really treat ourselves right have two or three products that we love to use together and that we buy for ourselves whenever we get the chance.

C&F is more than just a beauty retail store, this destination for all things beauty-related gives you a wide array of fragrances, skincare, make-up, hair care and body care products so you can show yourself and the people around you how special they are every single day.

As our busy lives demand more and more of our time, people are seeking those little moments of beauty care that give a sense of calm and well-being and restore the radiance of the body and complexion.

To meet todays changing beauty needs C&F brings you all the latest essentials and special treats for the modern man and woman to bring out their most beautiful sides as we head into the winter season.

In addition to shopping for an outstanding selection of beauty products shoppers can visit institutes to pamper themselves.

Zalka Highway I Metro Superstore - Ghazir I Hamra - Main Street I Beirut Souks - DT I Saida Mall I TSC Superstore - Jnah

The Hand Picked Gift box

For Your Loved Ones

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8Editor's Letter

Selections team and myself wish you a glittering New Year.

We feel like celebrating the season with lots of uplifting sparkle and brilliance so we have filled the coming pages with jewels to put a twinkle in your eye.

Diamonds are in the air with new records at Christies and Sothebys, along with the momentous new Cartier exhibition, in Paris, reminding us how jewellery brings a sense of occasion to our lives.

With illumination in mind, we look at the visionary Op Art of Julio Le Parc and the luminous design work of Michael Anastassiades, Andy Martin and Guillerme Torres, the last being this years architecture commission for Swarovski Crystal Palace, displayed recently at Design Miami.

Youll find crystals, metallics, colours and prints in our Accessories Focus, which is brimming with bags, shoes and details for both women and men. We couldnt leave out fashion completely of course, so we had fun imagining the dream style of every star sign woman, as a nod to what the zodiac may have in store for the year ahead.

Selections is happy to be expanding in 2014. We will increase from four to six issues per year and I am pleased to announce our presence in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. We are now available online, with the Selections app for iPad and Android tablets, plus every issue is now readable in full on the City News Publishing website.

I would like to thank our followers and supporters as without you we wouldnt be able to grow. A big thank you also goes to my team for bringing their energy and passion to Selections. May 2014 be full of brilliance, growth and positivity for all of us.

HAPPY NeW YeAr

Editors LEttEr

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l u x u r y l i f e s t y l e

f a s h i o n

LIFESTYLE NEWS

Damien Hirst & Miuccia Prada

Recycling with Herms

Record breaking diamonds

Dazzling winter jewellery

10 Top tech gadgets

The history of Faberg

Beauty maestro Serge Lutens

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44FASHION NEWS

Giambattista Valli's new book

Accessories Focus

Men's Accessories Trends

Superb shoes at Roger Vivier

Starsign style

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ABU DHAB I COURCHEVEL DUBA I GENEVA GSTAAD KUWAIT LONDON M IAMI MOSCOWNEW YORK PAR IS PORTO CERVO ROME S T BARTHELEMY S T MOR I TZ

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Publisher City News Privilege [email protected]

Editor in Chief Rima Nasser+961 3 852 [email protected]

EditorKasia Maciejowska

Managing EditorHelen Assaf

Responsible EditorDiala Koteich

Pictures EditorRowina Bou Harb

Additional photo editingGeorge Zouein

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ART & DESIGN NEWS

ART BEAT

Julio Le Parc

Swarovski Crystal Palace

Andy Martin Design

Michael Anastassiades

V&A Jameel Prize

Curated by Richard Koh

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96WORLD NEWS

Snowy escapes

Edition Hotels by Ian Schrager

Leila Alaoui's guide to Marrakech

Stargazing hotspots

Hand Picked

Oh so Tokyo

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is now enriched with layar, which l inks you

to digital content via your smartphone.

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Big Bang Fluo. Chronograph adorned with 430 black

diamonds, totaling 2.3 carats, and 36 pink sapphires. Fluorescent pink indexes.

Black rubber and python strap. Limited edition of 250 pieces.

www.hublot.com twitter.com/hublot facebook.com/hublot

HUBLOT BOUTIQUEBeirut Souks, Gold Souks Sector

Downtown Beirut - Lebanon.Phone: +961 (1) 999 891 Fax: +961 (1) 999 892

Mobile: +961 (78) 843 853

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{ Qatar Leads in Luxury } With 57,000 millionaires and 4,000 with fortunes worth more than $10million it is hardly surprising to learn that Qatar has become the worlds fastest growing luxury market. The facts have been stated in a new report Global Luxury Hotspots from the market research firm Ledbury Research. Qatar owns the luxury London store Harrods and has majority stakes in Valentino among many other things; there are even rumours that the country will soon be launching its own luxury brand and boutiques around the world. Last year it was Thailand taking all the glory for spending while this year in second and third place respectively were the UAE and Saudi Arabia. It seems nothing quite says luxury like an oil rich nation.

{ Limited edition nationaL GeoGraphic prints } Even if you dont fancy reading National Geographics lengthy articles on cowboys in the mid-west or tribeswomen in the Brazilian jungle, you can always be wooed by the magazines fantastic photos. Some of those iconic images have gone on sale through an online-only auction at Christies. Timeless: National Geographic as Celebrated by TASCHEN put up 125 images in an edition called National Geographic: Around the World in 125 Years. The limited edition prints were going for upwards of $500. Also available at the auction was the fifth copy of the limited edition TASCHEN book containing all the images, signed by 43 of the featured photographers, estimated to go for up to $15,000.

luxury lifestyle

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{ patek phiLippe record saLe } At a Christies auction of watches where the presale estimate was $15million, the total ended up at a whopping $43.9million within 24 hours. The record auction of watches in Geneva put up one particular auction item that boosted the total significantly - a 1957 Patek Philippe pink gold watch which sold for 2.2million to an anonymous bidder. The watch adjusts for leap years and is one of only six of its kind known to exist. Christies also sold a 1947 version of another Patek Philippe model known as a Duke Ellington for $1.6million. There are going to be some very well dressed wrists strutting their stuff this festive season.

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{ Girard-perreGauxs new bLood } Girard-Perregaux is the oldest Haute Horlogerie Maison in Switzerland and since being founded in 1791 it has nurtured young talent and trained up some of the worlds finest watchmakers. The brand recently held its Young Masters travel programme to highlight the industrys freshest faces and has taken craftsmen and women all over the world this year as part of its New Faces of Tradition tour. The watchmakers stopped off in New York, Paris, Beijing, Miami, Le Glacier dAletsch in the Alps, Sydney, and Shanghai. To learn more about the work of the next generation of watchmakers being produced by this famous brand visit thenewfaceoftradition.com.

{ dress Like diana } To wear a dress only three times might seem a little restrained to most commoners but for a princess it should come as no surprise. Three is the total number of times that Diana, the late Princess of Wales, apparently wore her fairytale gown that was just auctioned in London. The dress, made by David and Elizabeth Emanuel (the pair were also responsible for her wedding dress) was part of their 1986 Diahgilev-themed collection and went under the hammer at Kerry Taylor Auctions. This rather special frock is now worth over 50,000. The auction coincides with the worldwide release of Diana the movie, a portrait of the Princess of Wales, starring Naomi Watts.

{ computer Game hoteL } Microsoft France has transformed the Htel O in Paris into the Xbox One Hotel to coincide with their new product release. To mark the launch of a latest games console the hotel is offering guests an immersive experience in the world of the Xbox. Rooms are dedicated to particular games and the bar, which is open to the public, is offering cocktails inspired by games like Abyssum-Ryse with Guignolet kirsch and cumin liqueur. This innovative experiment in online-offline experiential hospitality wont be a permanent fixture so die-hard gamers in Paris before January should pop in.

{ another book for eLie } It seems that one book in one year isnt enough for the prolific haute couture designer as after his first book Elie Saab: Memory of Fashion was released earlier this year, Saab has collaborated on an Assouline publication, this time with Le Figaro journalist Janie Samet. Moving on from the previous book this will look into the development of the Saab brand from its genesis in a war torn early 1980s Beirut to the contemporary status of his ready-to-wear collections which are now stocked worldwide. The book will also include 200 archive images from the photographer Laziz Hamani and is available to order now.

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Damien Hirst and Miuccia Prada collaborate for charity in the Qatari desert

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with her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Thani, to bring a two-day pop-up juice bar to the desert.

Set beside a Bedouin tent, the tavern was a revival of Hirsts 1992 original restaurant and installation called Pharmacy in Notting Hill Gate, which closed its doors a decade ago. The eatery was re-envisioned as a dreamy juice bar, tucked away in the middle of the desert with two skeletons as regulars propping up the bar. This rehydrating mirage of

Q atars recent thirst for Hirst shows no sign of abating. To accompany Relics, the largest collection ever assembled of the British artists 25-year creative career, displayed at Dohas Al Riwaq Exhibition space

until 22nd January, Damien Hirst has moulded yet another astonishing idea. The provocative creator teamed up with the visionary Miuccia Prada, in collaboration

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art, fruit and fashion also housed a Prada Oasis shop installed in a traditional bayat shaar tent, made of sheeps wool and furnished with Pradas signature green velvet sofas.

Miuccia Pradas Italian flare and fashion brilliance, coupled with Hirsts morbid fascination for death, resulted in 20 fabulous little bug-themed bags that were displayed at the store. Made

from real insects trapped inside Plexiglas and adorned with sequins, feathers and crystal embroideries of various species. Frustratingly for anyone hoping to snap one up these limited-edition entomological purses sold out at a silent auction held last November in aid of Reach Out to Asia, an organization dedicated to improving childrens education in Asia and the Middle East.

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The clever people at Herms transform waste material into kooky crafted objectsWor

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f you ever look at Herms wonderful windows or in-store displays, you may have noticed the occasional quirky object such as a fanciful animal shape in patchwork silk or

leather. These, and many smaller objects, are part of the clever and useful Petit h project, which was set up in 2010 under Pascale Mussard, a member of the sixth generation of the Herms founding family, to make use of small offcuts and

i imperfect pieces of all the very expensive and high-quality materials that the company uses, with the slogan Dont throw anything away - we always make use of it.This is not just thrifty and responsible but creative, as Mussards design team roam the carefully restored rows of boxes, matching up materials to make something new. So scarf silk and bag buckles become jewellery, leather turns into everything from sofas to

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cup holders, while silver spoons, crystal glasses and porcelain plates make lamps and vases. All are made to the same exacting standards and by the same experienced craftspeople as the main products. Designer imaginations have free rein, as long as all items are functional, and perfect in their new guise, and the craftsmen work out how to make them.

Petit h items are sold at regular pop-ups, the latest at the London Bond Street store, and there is now a permanent area for them in the Paris Rue de Svres flagship. For a further explanation the brand has made five captivating little movies showing the varied processes at close quarters, which you can now see on YouTube.

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Geneva Beirut Amman Jeddah Riyadh Al Khobar Dubai Abu Dhabi Kuwait City Doha Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Los Angeles

Geneva Beirut Amman Jeddah Riyadh Al Khobar Dubai Abu Dhabi Kuwait City Doha Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Los Angeles

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not just for girls

W O R D S : A v r i l G r o o m

lincomparable DiamonD

necklace 2013 by mouawaD

6363

he sale of a pink diamond at Sothebys in Geneva in November for a mind-boggling $83 million

casts a whole new spotlight on the current record prices for precious stones, and for coloured diamonds in particular. Never has Coco Chanels assertion that

Diamonds are breaking records at auction as these sparkling stones become portable investment pieces

t diamonds represent The greatest worth in the smallest volume (just one of the many reasons why she loved them) been so accurate. In the same Sothebys sale a 118 carat oval white diamond also broke records by going for over $30 million. Even yellow or brown diamonds can no longer be seen as poor relations

as now the best and biggest examples of these also fetch enormous prices.

Such is the demand that some colours are virtually out of the reckoning because of their rarity. The Pink Star is huge at 59.6 carats and its price works out at over $1.2 million per carat. That pales into insignificance however when

Dense as they are, they represent the greatest worth

in the smallest volumeCoco Chanel

Inset ImAGe: GarlanD tiara

with central pear-shapeD

DiamonD. collection cartier.

photo: V. wulwerick. cartier

pink star DiamonD, imaGe

courtesy of sothebys GeneVa

the oranGe DiamonD, imaGe

courtesy of christies

maGnificent oVal DiamonD,

imaGe courtesy of sothebys

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Below : hair ornament

with rose cut DiamonDs in

milleGrain settinG, 1902

collection cartier. photo:

n. welsh. cartier

Above : Grace kellys

enGaGement rinG with an

emeralD-cut DiamonD of

10.47 carats, collection

cartier. photo: V.

wulwerick. cartier

compared with the $1.8 million per carat paid for a mere 5.30 carat deep blue diamond, mounted in a Bulgari ring, at Bonhams in London. Blues are even rarer than pinks and on top of that real connoisseurs want the most unique pieces of course. As for reds - the rarest colour of all - London jeweller Moussaieff is rumoured to own a large, deep red diamond which is technically for sale but as it is virtually priceless it remains in their hands.

The reasons for these sums are a mix of ancient history and contemporary conditions. Diamonds have been prized since Medieval times; they were then the preserve of kings and thought to protect against injury in battle. Many times have they been the spoils of war - the worlds most famous blue

diamond, the Hope, was looted from the French crown jewels during the French Revolution in 1792 as Marie Antoinette was awaiting the guillotine it was later bought by Harry Winston.

Diamonds have always been a form of portable wealth - every conflict has its myths of refugees smuggling them across borders sewn into clothes. Sometimes transporting them is a large-scale organisation - after Cartier and Boucheron became the Western jewellers of choice for Indian potentates, maharajahs arrived in Paris with crates of diamonds from the old Indian Golconda mines that they wanted to be reset.

Then, as it is today, the gap between the super-wealthy and the everybody else was enormous but the difference now is

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One reason that pink diamond values have rocketed is that mines such as the Argyle in Australia have announced a limited future lifespan, meaning the value placed on other colours has also risen in their wake. Big stones of any kind are increasingly rare and sought after by new collectors in areas like the Far East. On top of being the sparkling status symbols and glinting objects of wonder they always were, they are increasingly appreciated as a failsafe investment. With world politics getting no nearer to a stable state, who can blame anyone who thinks a diamond may be the safest place to keep their money?

Cartier: Style and History is at the Grand Palais, Paris,

until 16th February 2014.

that there are more wealthy people who are creating more demand - and the earth is not offering up any more diamonds. Today a mainstream audience around the world has come to know about big diamonds. The fabulous exhibition about the story of Cartier recently opened in Paris showing the outstanding stones and craftsmanship of the jewellery house, with classic photographs of the film stars and royalty who give life to Cartiers sparkling work. Media events like the Victorias Secret fashion show feature gem-covered fantasy lingerie with stones supplied by the Beirut firm and collector Mouawad, broadcast just recently on 9th December. The Mouawad family has its own museum for one of the biggest private collections of stones, including the 245.35 carat Jubilee, the worlds sixth largest of its kind.

Below: kokoshnik tiara with

15 pear-shapeD DiamonDs

aDDinG up to 19 carats in

a muGeut settinG, 1908,

collection cartier. photo:

V. wulwerick. cartier

beloW: the Duke anD Duchess of winDsor; she wears

a flaminGo brooch of brilliant-cut DiamonDs,

rubies, sapphires anD emerlanDs, commissioneD from

cartier by her husbanD. superstock/leemaGe.

rIGht: princess marie

bonaparte (1882-1962)

wearinG GarlanD-style

DiamonDs from her weDDinG

basket. archiVes cartier

KARAGULLA BUILDING GRAND HOTELS DISTRICT +961 1 99 30 60. TOMFORD.COM

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Dazzling jewellery to brighten the winter season

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diamond and

aquamarine earrings

from the Art of Inlay

collection by boghart

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orient-inspired

earrings in

white gold with

aquamarines and

brown diamonds

from lodyse du

Cartier - Parcours

un style, by Cartier

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toile de nord broach in white

gold with diamonds, pearls

and opals from the contrastes

collection by chanel

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cher Dior majestueuse

diamond pastel r ing by Dior

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sunset diamond

necklace by

harry Winston

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orchid ring with

central tourmaline

by Andr marcha

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10 Technology writer

Peter Firth talks you through the years best gadgets

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1 leap motionEarly this year saw the commercial launch of the Leap Motion interface. This is the most accurate gesture interface on the market. You plug it in, place the controller in front of the screen, and it picks up your hand movements with pinpoint accuracy. It will make you feel like Tom Cruise fighting Pre-crime in Minority Report, and its yours for a very affordable price.

2 nimbuspersonal dashboardTwenty years ago, people dealt with as much information as if they had read 40 newspapers every day, according to the University of Southern California. Now, we are bombarded with the equivalent of 174 newspapers a day. Needless to say, were all feeling a bit overwhelmed. Nimbus is a simple solution to this problem, which makes all that information easier to take in. The dashboard synchs with your devices, bringing you anything from weather to stock prices.

3 legomindstormsSynonymous with creativity, play and childhood, everyone has fond memories of the humble Lego brick. Now the Danish toymaker has supercharged its building sets for the information age with Lego Mindstorms EV3. Using a programmable

brick you can pre-programme the toy to react to specific scenarios like shooting a projectile, when it tracks something in its line of fire.

4 nikefuelband (se)Nikes FuelBand took the fitness tech market by storm when it launched in 2012. Now Nikes Second Edition (SE) FuelBand has hit stores updated with a more accurate algorithm to track your movement better, a longer lasting battery, and best of all, it comes as part of Nikes Metaluxe Collection in a rose gold hue.

5 cubeThe first industrial revolution began with a cotton spinning wheel, the second began with a PC computer, now you can be part of the third industrial revolution with the Cube 3D printer by 3D Systems. The updated model of the worlds most affordable 3D printer will turn your ideas into real objects allowing you to 3D print products from the comfort of your own home.

6 sonos play:1Tired of changing records? Or listening to music from your laptop speakers? Its time you bought one of these. Sonos Play:1 is a music system that connects to your homes WiFi, then lets you stream music from Rdio, Spotify or Pandora using the Sonos app on your computer tablet or smartphone. The best thing? These are the

lego of the speaker world, you can add as many wireless speakers as you want building up a stereo stack, or spreading them through your home.

7 coinIt will be a few years before were paying for everything with smartphones. Until then, Coin allows you to consolidate your credit and debit cards into a single sleek device, and swipe or tap just like a normal card. It launched in November after reaching its Kickstarter goal in under 40 minutes. Use it and youll coin it away.

8 pebble watchAnother breakthrough in wearable tech for 2013, the highly anticipated Pebble Watch synchs with your smartphone, bringing you the must-see updates from the smartphone in your pocket. It is super-customizable and you can set it to notify you when your favourite sports team scores a goal, have it track your workouts, or even just tell the time.

9 fairphoneProvenance and transparency are becoming watchwords for the lifestyle industries, changing how we think about food, fashion and our own rate of consumption. Tech has been lagging behind in responding to this with many manufacturers concealing what goes into their devices. Now the Dutch firm Fairphone has created the first smartphone with traceable rare earth minerals. Swipe, tap, talk and chat with an utterly clear conscience.

10 skully helmetThis motorcycle helmet will make you feel like a cross between Tony Stark and Steve McQueen. The Skully Helmet gives you a head-up display with weather data, voice calls, a rear view mirror, and directions to where youre going. Youll never want to take it off.

n the world of technology you can count on a few things to remain constant from year-to-year. The gadgets get thinner, the screens get wider, and everything gets faster. Although 2013 wasnt exactly a non-starter for technology, it didnt bring about the cataclysmic changes that we thought it would back in January. There was no sign of an

iWatch from Apple, Samsung didnt wow us with a market-ready flexible screen, and Googles biggest headline during the year wasnt about its Glass project, but about Androids partnership with wafer chocolate bar KitKat.

If 2013 didnt live up to all expectations, it sowed the seeds for 2014, which will bloom into a new swathe of tech toys that will help you get fitter, make information more palatable, and indulge your inner child. This selection of tantalizing new lifestyle tech will take you into the coming year.

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From St. Petersburg basements and the high court of the Tsar, into exile out of Russia and all the way back again - the Faberg name maintains its historic allure

W o r d s : l u c y K n i g h t

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I M P E R I A L P E L I C A N E A S T E R E G G ,

1 8 9 7 . I M A G E C O U R T E S Y O F

V I R G I N I A M U S E U M O F F I N E A R T S

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i n 2004 the Russian billionaire businessman Viktor Vekselberg bought the largest private collection of Faberg pieces at an auction at Sothebys. For a reported $100 million he became the proud owner of nine Faberg eggs as part of his new collection. Held until now under lock and key, this eye-popping collection of finely crafted objects is now to go on show at Vekselbergs new Faberg Museum, which opened to the public this December in St. Petersburg. The new museum is the first of its kind in Russia and the glamourous opening was attended by Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev and the countrys elite.

Fabergs history is coloured by White Russians, Tsarist wealth, the upheaval of revolution and the loss of brand-name rights. Such dramatic ingredients mean the Faberg name still conjures in peoples minds that strange bejewelled object first crafted for Russias last and most extravagant royalty the Faberg egg.

It all began with Gustav Faberg, a master goldsmith who was born in what is now Estonia and travelled to St. Petersburg to learn his craft. Initially his last name didnt carry an acute accent on the final e, but when he opened his first shop in 1842 the savvy Gustav felt that such an adornment would appeal to the Francophile tendencies of the Russian Imperial Court.

beloW: catherine the

Great eGG, 1914. imaGe

courtesy of the hillwooD

museum, washinGton Dc

Above: the faberG

workshop in 1903

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Faberg at the Shuvalov Palace is now open in St. Petersburg and

The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts collection of Faberg pieces is currently on tour, next showing at Montreal Museum of Fine Arts,

Montreal, Quebec from 26th May until 19th October 2014. A collection of the original eggs and jewellery can also be seen at The Faberg Museum

in Baden-Baden, Germany.

Fabergs big break came when Peter Carl, Gustavs son, was running the company. While exhibiting at the Pan-Russian Exhibition in Moscow their work was seen by Tsar Alexander III, who took note of it and gave them the royal seal, making them jewellers by official appointment of the Imperial Court. In 1885 the Tsar commissioned the House of Faberg to make a gift for his wife. This commission would become the first of the iconic Imperial Easter Eggs.

The initial egg was simply named the Hen Egg and, much like Russian

dolls that stack up one inside the other, it opened up to reveal a gold yolk, which in turn would reveal a little gold chicken; that opened up to display a replica of the Imperial Crown, from which a mini ruby egg was daintily suspended.

The Russian Revolution brought an end to such opulence, meaning the eggs became highly sought after as timepieces of a long-lost era that came to define the modern history of Russia. Usually held in private by collectors around the world, the new museum in St. Petersburg houses the eggs in the impressive setting of the Shuvalov Palace, returning the pieces to a context that perfectly suits them.

Today Fabergs jewellery mimics some of the extreme decoration of the original eggs, and the collection features a series of egg pendants that are a cute echo of the original stunning pieces. Tapping into the romance and theatre of highlights from Russian literature and history, the company now channels its captivating past into creating a tale of Russian heritage to inspire customers a century after the end of Tsarist Russia. The brand uses exceptional and highly commendably - ethically sourced gemstones, and with the launch of two Middle Eastern stores it recently introduced a limited edition UAE pendant in the colours of the UAE flag to commemorate National Day.

Find Faberge in Qatar at Alfardan Jewellery in the Alfardan Centre and in Dubai at the Burj Al Arab and in Dubai Mall.

left: faberG lilies of

the Valley 1898. imaGe

courtesy of the forbes

collection, new york

Above: contemporary eGG

penDants with coloureD

Gemstones, by faberG

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verything I have done can be seen as the story of my life. To feel such a way as you approach your seventy second year must give a satisfying

sense of continuity when looking back. Yet Serge Lutens, art director and cosmetics creator who was hailed as the greatest make-up artist in the world following his debut with Christian Dior, comments, What some call style was simply but my life. It is a destiny that I couldnt have escaped.

Such poetic tendencies are a Serge Lutens signature. He writes a short story to accompany every perfume that he makes under his own label, with each giving a hint at what Lutens was conjuring as he developed the scent. Yet it remains only a glint as these evocative little pieces of literature are as elusive and opaque as the man himself. When asked if the perfume or the text comes first, he says neither, because, There is no

From creating Christian Dior Cosmetics to founding his own fragrance house, Serge Lutens has made crafting feminine identity his lifes defining work

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right: serGe lutens by patrice naGel

facing page: serGe lutens

for christian Dior, 1978

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difference between them. He captures the perpetual romance of fragrance because he understands its suggestive potential. A perfume is what remains of a book, a film, or a person after they have disappeared. Perfume is not a product but a memory.

Lutens asserts that he is not an aesthete and it is true that sensuality and expression pervade the visual perfection in the imagery he made at Dior and Shiseido. His iconography, however, does repeatedly represent the feminine through a pared-back symbolism that echoes traditional Far Eastern graphics merged with classic stars from the

silver screen. This image of woman as a strong but stylised apparition comes to Lutens from within: All my work comes from the femininity within me. I am its servant; it takes me higher; it is religious. In the past he has stated, Everything creative is female.

Having never gone to art school, Lutens is self-taught and a self-described amateur. In the 1950s he began as a hair salon apprentice in Lille and made a name for himself experimenting with make-up. In 1962 he moved to Paris and started creating beauty shoots for French Vogue, collaborating with leading photographers Irving Penn, Helmut Newton and Richard Avedon. Picked up by Christian Dior, which was then under the creative direction of Marc Bohan, he launched the brands new cosmetics line in 1968.

Subsequently Diana Vreeland put him on the cover of American Vogue with the headline, Serge Lutens: Revolution of

Perfume is not aproduct but a memory

aBove left: fille De berlin

parfum by serGe lutens

aBove right: VierGe De fer

parfum by serGe lutens

facing page: serGe lutens

for shiseiDo, 1996

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Make-Up! and the Guggenheim Museum, New York, exhibited his photographic projects. In 1980 he went

on to work with Shiseido and established the companys international presence. Throughout all this he invented the ideals of female beauty that dominated the 1970s and 1980s, such as the smokey eye and the strong, sculptural face. These ideals were made popular via the advertisements visualised by Lutens. I was always somehow very fashionable.

Having established Les Salons du Palais Royal, in 2000 he founded Serge Lutens perfumes in collaboration with the respected nose Christopher Sheldrake, and in 2007 he was awarded the title of Commander in the Order of Arts and Letters by the French Government.

Although much has happened since, 1968 was a pivotal year in Lutens artistic evolution. Not only was he recruited by Christian Dior, he also visited Marrakech for the first time, embarking on a life-long romance with the city that he later made his home. Marrakech awoke my fifth sense that had previously been uncultivated and asleep. Before that perfume never shook my interest. It is

certain that my perfume creations would never have existed without that city.

Whether in Marrakech, at the enclosed riad that he passionately restored, or in Paris, in the enveloped colonnades of the Palais Royal, where his theatrical perfume boutique is located, Lutens seems to seek out the shadows of relative obscurity albeit rather glamorous shadows. I recall, from my earliest memories, that I have always felt at a distance. I hate the exhibitionism of our days, it turns the woman, in particular, into a product. I like secrecy, I like separation, and I like the way the Arabic house surrounds you like embracing arms - it is a place where you can always feel protected.

All my work comes from the femininity within

me. I am its servant. It takes me higher

Serge Lutens

facing page: pouDrier

lacqu by serGe lutens, 2013

this page: laine De Verre

parfum by serGe lutens 2013

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{ JOsePH OPens BeIRUT BOUTIQUe } November saw the opening of Joseph womenswears first store in Downtown Beirut. The label had already acquired a steady local following, with stands found in luxury retail stores around town. This shop launch shows just how far the internationally renowned brand has come since its original shop-meets-hairdressing salon in London, founded by Casablanca-born Joseph Ettedgui. To celebrate 25 years of dressing cool, confident women in contemporary-chic garments, the fashion store will take part in Februarys London Fashion Week for the very first time. The label has asked 25 friends of Mr Ettedgui to share what they think of Joseph the brand. On top of that, Balmain, Jil Sander and others have agreed to design an exclusive item each, which will be up for sale on the anniversary.

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{ VIVenne wesTwOOD TO wRITe AUTOBIOGRAPHY } Fashion empress Vivienne Westwood is set to co-write her autobiography with friend, actor and Hermione Grangers father in Harry Potter the author Ian Kelly. The memoir will showcase the ins and outs of Westwoods life from her innocuous primary school teacher years, via her early days as a fashion designer on the artsy Portobello market, through to rewriting the industry altogether by introducing the punk-chic movement. The hardcover is likely to be a spicy read as raunchy anecdotes will be contributed by Westwoods friends including Prince Charles, Jerry Hall and Wikileaks notoriously big-mouthed Julian Assange. Alas, its release isnt expected before October 2014.

{ BALenCIAGA sTORes ReBRAnDeD } November saw the opening of Balenciagas brand new store in SoHo, New York, after their previous West Chelsea branch suffered damage by Hurricane Sandy. The new store is the first of the brands global stores to be given a new image in keeping with the labels recently appointed creative director Alexander Wang. The spacious Big Apple store is full of green-marble with skylight ceilings and was co-designed by Ryan Korban, who also sketched out Alexander Wangs own-label boutiques. As one of Wangs trusted insiders, Korban is known for his decorative genius. The SoHo opening marks the beginning of a series of complete boutique makeovers that will add Wangs signature street-style edge to the brands established identity.

{ VICTORIA BeCKHAMs weDDInG CROwn On sALe } Giving all ladies a chance to recreate a fairy-tale nuptial, fashion icon Victoria Beckhams wedding crown was auctioned on 5th December at Bonhams, in London. Designed by famous jeweller Slim Barrett, the 18-carat tiara is framed in gold, features diamond beads and is called East of Paris. The grandiose head wear was valued at between 18,000 and 25,000 but failed to sell as bidding stopped at 14,00 First worn by VB - aka Posh Spice - for her royal themed wedding to footballer David Beckham on 4th July 1999 in Ireland, the diadem has since been exhibited at both the Victoria and Albert Museum and The Diamond Museum in Antwerp. Perhaps surprisingly the famous couple had only borrowed it for the occasion perhaps fulfilling the wedding proverb something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.

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{ IsABeLLA BLOw AT sOMeRseT HOUse } From her position as editor of Vogue, Tatler and Sunday Times Style magazine, to her role as model scout, talent spotter and artistic muse, Isabella Blow led the dazzling life of a colourful aristocratic chameleon. To commemorate her influential thirty-year career, Somerset House, in partnership with the Isabella Blow Foundation and Central Saint Martins, is presenting Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! The exhibition will feature over one hundred pieces from the late icons astonishing wardrobe, including items by designers discovered by her such as Alexander McQueen and Philip Treacy. Daphne Guinness now owns Blows unique fashion collection; she describes the show as a bittersweet event that will inspire generations of designers to come. This is a one-off chance to see such an exquisite private collection the exhibition continues until March 2014.

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{ sTePHen JOnes DesIGns FOR BARBIe } The super dapper British hat maker Stephen Jones has given his most fabulous private client, as he called her, none other than Barbie doll herself, a Christmas makeover this year. Jones has designed five festive looks for the petite blonde mini model including a mistletoe cocktail dress, a velvet Santa mini-dress and an amusing reindeer number using real fur and micro antlers. Priced at 250 each, the garments were launched at Selfridges Londons Toy Shop on 15th November, where the doll had a whole section exclusively opened for her last year. We suspect that this might not be a one-off collaboration as Jones states that he strongly admires Barbie for sharing his design vision and loving tradition while having an eye for the future. Jones is not alone in his infatuation - other labels that have previously designed wardrobe pieces for the figurine include Burberry, Chanel and Prada.

{ VALenTInO sHOws A sHAnGHAI sPeCIAL } Italian couturier Valentino has gone all out for his Chinese customers by creating an exclusive collection specifically targeted to the Shanghai market. Inspired by Chinese culture, the 81-look, all-red collection includes haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories. It was shown with a special catwalk show in November at the brands flagship store in Shanghai. Co-creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli say they dont necessarily plan to repeat this strategy as the pair already has enough on their plates with the standing six shows a year. This was more like a limited-edition lucky number seven. The designs will also be available in New York, Paris and Rome in-store from April.

{ nICOLAs GHesQUIeRe COnFIRMeD AT LOUIs VUITTOn } After months of speculation Marc Jacobs successor was finally revealed by the ultimate luxury goods house Louis Vuitton in November. The former Balenciaga creative director Nicolas Ghesquire will step into Jacobs well-worn shoes. Ghesquire is said to have fallen out with his former employers at Balenciaga due to artistic differences after their 15-year collaboration. Described by Louis Vuitton as a man with a modern creative vision who builds on the values of refinement, savoir faire and extreme quality, the maisons top newbie is expected to turn things around for the label after recent sales in emerging markets werent as successful as expected. Suffering from logo fatigue, Marc Jacobs already tried to shake up the Louis Vuitton brand but to little avail. Ghesquires own grand-plan will be revealed in March, when he is set to present his first collection for the house.

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fashion

Giambattista Vallis Haute Couture creations areimpossibly romantic yetimpeccably modern as hisbeautiful new monograph shows

LIGHT AS A FEATHER, COOL AS A WAVE

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t both of his recent book launches in Paris and London the handsome Italian couturier Giambattista Valli was surrounded by cool young socialites, influential fashion editors and ethereal models as he signed copies of his new hardback. And no wonder, as Valli credits these women as the inspiration and encouragement behind his celebrated career.

Fellow designers, including Lanvins Alber Elbaz, also joined in to support

A Valli, who says this book is not only for those who love fashion but also for young designers and enthusiasts who want to know more about the creative process. The monograph gives a fresh view of Haute Couture that perfectly mimics Vallis talent for combining high craftsmanship with feminine flair.

The impeccable 400-page tome gives a peek into the designers world with alluring photographs of his frothy dresses and fluid gowns, alongside design sketches

fashion

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in Vallis cartoonish style. Soft-focus catwalk shots are mixed with close-ups showing backstage preparations and intimate portraits of Valli working with models in his design studio. A special touch is added by personal writings from his key collaborators, including Franca Sozzani, editor of Vogue Italia, and Diane Kruger, the German actress.

Giambattista Valli by Giambattista Valli is published by Rizzoli

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TWINKLE TOES

Accessories to have fun with!

E D I T O R I A L : K a s i a M a c i e j o w s k a

I L L u S T R A T I O N S : Ya s m i n a N y s t e n

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fashion Accessories Focus

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Paul smith liPs and Pearl necklace

roger ViVier silVer Prismick Pouch clutch

lanVin bee jewellery

chanel transParent Plexiglass Perfume bottle handbag

burberry heart Print sneakers

hoss introPia red & fushcia clutch

diorific manicure duo in gold & crystal Pearl

roger ViVier green Virgule court shoe

dolce&gabbana red crystals Purse

white resin and crystal fusion crystalactite cuff, atelier swaroVski by maison martin margiela

charlotte olymPia gold croissant clutch

white resin and crystal fusion crystalactite cliP, atelier swaroVski by maison martin margiela

jimmy choo black lace court shoe

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ballerina by chantal at feminin Pluriel

celine black and white bag with fur Polka dots

Vanina sage nuit necklace

salVatore farragamo silVer sPike bracelet

celine beige ankle boot

Versace barocco Pink earrings

salVatore ferragamo silVer chain ring

kenzo eye Print toeless ankle boot

Prada silVer Platform sandal

Paule ka gold liPs clutch

dior embroidered PumPs

girard-Perregaux,1966 collection. full calendar watch.aVailable at chronora

nada g safety Pin necklaces

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Paule ka surreal face nacklace

lanVin cone heel shoe

lanVin haPPy necklace

Versace straPPy sandals with white fur

tory burch beetle Print iPhone coVer

dolce&gabbana mosaic handbag

etro gold and black bracelet

diorific illuminating Powder comPact

nada g lamis cage bracelet

Vanina grey glitter lace-uPs

Patent ziP sneakers by guglielmo rotta at feminin Pluriel


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dolce&gabbana mosaic court shoe

hoss introPia beaded & ribbon necklace

Vanina sage necklace in riVerstone red

marni little human earrings

Versace fluo aPollo and daPhne watch

stella mccartney marbled box clutch

dolce&gabbana crown headPiece

lanVin loVe necklace

Paul smith mens Polka dot bow ties


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Trend spotter Thomas Rees gives us a tour through gentlemens accessories for Winter 2014

HeLLO ROMeO

One of the key trends for this season is for nostalgic dressing but this time its manly

sophistication with twist. Classic suits are worn with bow ties but were seeing more playfulness

in print and texture. The fabrics for this look have a deluxe quality to them - think silks and velvets in deep indulgent tones of midnight blue, blood

red and orange. Dinner jackets unexpectedly appear in houndstooth tweeds, while others

have exotic details that hint of the Far East. On closer inspection we see that hand-embroidered jackets and bags are covered in graphic cartoons,

some with a humorous Halloween edge from the Chapman Brothers at Louis Vuitton. Classic

velvet slippers are given a modern edge, with bleeding teddy bears, looking as if they have just suffered an operation by Frankenstein himself. Other versions of the look are more

subtle but just as fun and play with tone-on-tone and textures that add discreet layers.gucci

bottega veneta

vuitton


bottega veneta vuitton

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ACTIOn MAn

This winter designers have looked to mountaineers and explorers for inspiration from another

classic menswear source but this time it has both old-fashioned and outdoorsy touches. Accessories

boast about their functionality with obvious straps, ropes and silver rock-climbing clips

adorning bags and shoes. Thick mountaineering ropes replace belts and add shape to fur-lined parker coats. Shoes are robust, fit for purpose

and reference traditional hiking gear. Jewellery appears amid all this sportswear like shining trophies from the climb, with animal teeth and rings with entomological details, while

bags look rustic in sheepskin and leather.

bcng1

vuitton

hermes

vuittonhermes van noten

Rachel Boston

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CLeAn sPORTs

This look suggests the high-speed life of the truly modern man and gives a sense of movement

between one situation and the next. Were talking more about urban functionality than actually

breaking a sweat at the gym. Tailoring is given a sharp edge with clean in-flight-style belts,

while the trainer-shoe hybrid makes a comeback as the footwear design suitable for a myriad of different social encounters. The hyper-bold

trainer pops up here too in all its multicoloured glory with pearlised and cellophane finishes. High-end fabrics like Duchess silk are used with casual styling and in functional pieces

like rucksacks, while bomber jackets are worn around the waist or street-style with gold

accessories. The key to this look is its sensational colour palette with blocks of maroon and acid green alongside charcoals, grays and blacks.

versace

raf simons

ferragamodior

wILD THInG

Only for the brave hearted, this trend has taken on animal print and given it a new macho post-Punk edge with bold furs and kitsch

prints. Safari furs can be found adorning chic weekend bags and smartphone covers while

jewellery adds bite by referencing scary details like scorpion stings. Wild prints in electric

and surgical blues appear in surprise flashes of colour on ties, adding a dash of excitement to the traditional suit. Bags and shoes in black

fur give a sense of fun and fetish - but be warned my advice is to pick one key accessory to liven up your look. Rocking all this at once could be a recipe for fashion extinction!

versace

versace

burberry

van noten

burberry

kjkj

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nyone who imagines that todays towering heels and fantastical decoration make shoes now the most extreme they have ever been should consider the original work of Parisian shoe designer Roger Vivier.

His brand is now known as a global, high-end label with stores in most leading world cities, including Beirut, as part of the Tods luxury group, but the man himself set the design pace in the 1950s, particularly with his work for Christian Dior and his design for Queen Elizabeth IIs coronation shoes.

The coffers of Tods enabled the recent very comprehensive exhibition of his work at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris but Viviers own talent made him a hot name during Diors couture heyday. The exhibition showed how closely to art objects shoes are now regarded - its well-known curator Olivier Saillard grouped the shoes loosely under

Crazy shoe designs are having a moment and it was Roger Vivier who invented some of the key shapes that are now being revived

A

themes to which he gave suitably artistic names like Gallery of the Post-Impressionists (all about print) or Italian and Spanish Sculptures (about heel and shoe shape) but did not add dates for each model. So the game at the opening night in October was to wander round guessing at dates or referring to the booklet of the exhibition. Apart from the changing logos inside the surprise it was surprisingly hard to guess the vintages.

Vivier invented heel shapes which still shock - the undercurved Virgule, or comma, after which the exhibition was named, the earliest needle stiletto, the Etrave, like a Surrealist hour glass, which is narrow in the middle and then elongated under the foot at the base, and the inverted pyramid Tibet - all launched in the 1950s or 1960s and applied to shoes embroidered, beaded or appliqud with silk flowers as richly as any modern fantasy. He also designed thigh-high embroidered boots and the stocking shoe with thigh-high

stocking attached.Vivier died in 1998 but the

brands designer since 2002, Bruni Frisoni, is not only an amazing guardian of Viviers legacy who continuously works with house codes, like the iconic heel shapes or the famous buckled pump designed for Catherine Deneuve to wear in Belle in Jour, but extends them and adds in new angles for the modern age, yet always mindful of Viviers spirit. The faceted heels and bag sides, reminiscent of precious stones, of the Prismick range, derive from original

Vivier sketches, while favourite Vivier themes - tribal and feather effects (originally designed for Yves Saint Laurent in 1967) or the decorated buckle are now reworked in line with current trends - the latter in Swarovski crystal. As brand revivals go, this is an exceptionally good one.

W O R D S : A v r i l G r o o m

All imAges: roger

ViVier aw 13/14

Experience art around the world

Retreat

Passion

Art

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GRVAF302H_ANNONCE_FB_LIBAN_235x285_v1.indd 1 19/12/13 16:26

ASTROlogical

Styles and moods for the signs of the zodiac,

Winter 2014

editor

ial: K

asia

mac

iejo

wsk

a

Cr

ysta

l p

hoto

gra

phy

: m

im m

useu

m B

eiru

t

sta

rs p

hoto

graphy

: The Ro

yal Observatory greenwich Astronomy Photographer of the Year C

omp

etition Finalists N

ature photography: george Zouein

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Aries

fashion by giVenchy,

bracelets by Versace,

nazareth candle

by cire trudon

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fashion

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TAurus

fashion by burberry, tan

bag by Victoria beckham,

gold laPis-lazuli and

Pearl jug made in

georgia dated 1941

from galerie claude

bernard at brafa 2014 109

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Gemini

fashion by emPorio

armani, ortensia

scented candle by

fornasetti Profumi,

Platform sandals

by dolce&gabanna,

shimmer blush by chanel

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CAnCer

fashion by cline,

cancer Pandora

clutch by charlotte

olymPia, gold crown by

dolce&gabanna, jade

snuff bottle made in

china dated 1750-1850

from galerie bertrand

de laVerne at brafa 2014

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Leo

fashion by ralPh

lauren, gold cammei

incense and candle by

fornasetti Profumi,

mitza lions Paw ring

by dior, mosaic bag by

dolce&gabanna, Vanitas

watch by Versace

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VirGo

fashion by

dolce&gabanna, my

dior bracelet and rings

by dior, liPstick and

nail Polish by chanel

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LibrA

fashion by louis

Vuitton, fulchrum

lamPs by lee broom,

diamond earrings by

boghart, candy stars

clutch by jimmy choo

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sCorpio

fashion by Versace,

geometric clutch by

roger ViVier, holiday

collection scented

candles by diPtyque

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sAGiTTArius

fashion by Paul smith,

gold hand from the

archetyPe collection

by karen chekerdjian,

carla Pendant light

by kolorz, sagittarius

Pandora clutch by

charlotte olymPia

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CApriCorn

fashion by dior, eliferia

clutch by nathalie trad,

liPstick by chanel, coPPa

delletica by michelle

de lucchi for baccarat

and sVres dated 2011

from sVres - cit de la

cramique at brafa 2014

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AquArius

fashion by lanVin, sole

di caPri room fragrance

by fornasetti Profumi,

necklace by Versace

with Perles dclat

ring by boucheron,

snakeskin clutch by

stella mccartney

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pisCes

fashion by kenzo, sage

choker by Vanina,

signature bag by

Versace, silVer gilt

salt cellars made in

augsberg dated 1630

from darschot &

cie at brafa 2014

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{ Louis Vuittons Red squaRe mega-tRunk } Almost 100 years after the communists kicked the wealthy elite out of Moscows famous Red Square, Louis Vuitton are turning the tables and tempting them to return. In order to inaugurate the brands new exhibition Lme du Voyage (or The Soul of Travel) dedicated to legendary adventurers and travellers, the brand has installed a building-sized LV trunk right outside St. Basils, making it impossible to miss. This giant trunk is an exact replica of the monogrammed luggage owned by Russian Prince Vladimir Orlov and hints at the series of objects that will be displayed in the exhibition held from 2nd December 2013 until 19th January 2014. Erected only weeks after a political activist was arrested in the square for disturbing the peace, Vuittons monogrammed monolith was highly controversial because of Red Squares communist history, and had to be removed.

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{ LeonaRdo diCapRio giVes $3 miLLion to tigeRs } In contrast to his recent role as an uncharitable slave-owner in Quentin Tarantinos Django Unchained, American film star Leonardo DiCaprio has earned his charity stripes by donating $3 million to the World Wildlife Foundations Save the Tiger campaign. Tigers have made the headlines for all the wrong reasons in recent years as poachers and urbanisation have chipped away at their natural habitat. DiCaprios pledge will help the WWF to enforce anti-poaching patrols and to protect and restore the areas where tigers breed in Nepal. The DiCaprio Foundation raised much of the $3m through an art auction at Christies in New York earlier this year.

{ CoRso Como in the FaR east } As far as cult stores go, London has Liberty, Paris has Colette and Milan has Corso Como and now Shanghai has Corso Como too! The legendary luxury lifestyle boutique opened in Milan at the dawn of the millennium and offers a fiercely chic and unapologetically modern shopping experience. Now Shanghai shopaholics can get a taste of Corso Como without having to cross the oceans. With an interior designed by American artist Kris Ruhs and curation by founder Carla Sozzani, the store follows the multi-sensory shopping trend by providing consumers with a visual feast for the eyes alongside a restaurant for the tongue. Travel fashionistas can add a new item to their shopping list.

WORLD

news

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{ Zaha hadid stadium ReVeaLed } Top architect Zaha Hadid finally revealed her design for the Al Wakrah sports stadium, to be built especially for the 2022 World Cup in Qatar. Hadids architecture is famous for its undulating shapes and flowing curves. Al Wakrahs design lives up to the expectation by capturing the organic spirit of the beautiful game; the shapes mimic a football net shaking after goal has been scored. The design has received various critical comments relating to its absorbent femininity and soft slopes, as well as support from others who welcome the refreshingly un-masculine approach to such sizeable constructions, which so often take the shape of monolithic towers.

{ CosmiC sCientists make goLd dust } The worlds most famous precious metal may just have become a little less precious as a group of cosmic scientists have discovered how gold is actually created. Dont go throwing your treasured jewellery into the fire just yet however the only way gold can be made is through neutron starbursts, which is an explosive deep space event so rare that it is unlikely the beautiful metal will ever be replenished on Earth. In a way, this makes gold more precious as the amount of gold on our planet is confirmed as totally finite.

{ eaRLiest Buddhist tempLe uneaRthed } Buddhism is famous for its quiet search for Enlightenment, but now archaeologists have given the meditative monks something new or rather very old - to get excited about. An ancient shrine to Buddha has been unearthed which is thought to be older than any previously found. This discovery will help scientists to determine when the religious icon was actually born. The 3rd century BC temple was excavated at UNESCO world heritage site the gardens of Lumbini. The holy temple was left open for meditation and prayer during the entire dig, perhaps challenging even the most dedicated of meditators.

{ duBais giant FRame } After various delays to construction and questions over its exact site, the Dubai Frame finally has a footprint. The long awaited sculpture-cum-viewing bridge will be situated adjacent to the Stargate theme park in Zabeel Park. Much like The Palm and other grand Dubai projects before it, The Frame appears exactly as the name would suggest a 150-foot high gold-coloured picture frame that looks like it has been plucked straight from the galleries of the Louvre. The Frame is to be built in a strategic position which commands majestic views over both the old city and the new for once, you wont be looking into a frame but looking out from one.

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itting the slopes season after season has its charm but more and more people are looking for something unusual in their snowy escapes. A growing range of wintery adventures can now

be found around the world, ranging from natural escapes to snow-steeped luxury. Whether you love high-adrenaline sports or peaceful moments in the calm of nature or a mixture of both these off-the-beaten-track locations provide postcard-perfect scenery and those one-off experiences that can freshen up your winter holiday routine.

Waking up to a wonderland scene of snow and ice never loses its magic, no matter where you are in the world

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Himalayan HeigHts

For something more extreme, go heli-skiing in the Himalayas. Expensive yes, but boarding the helicopter in the Annapurna region of Nepal, to then fly over Mount Everest, only to jump out skis attached and hit miles of fresh powder for an uninterrupted three-hour descent will exceed even the most seasoned skiers highest expectations.

asian special

If youre searching for something snowy outside the regular resorts of Europe and the US, try Japans charming range of boutique skiing spots. The village of Nozawa has naturally-heated hot spring baths where you can youre your aching muscles at the end of each day.

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colorado catcH

To connect with nature in an extreme environment book an ice-fishing holiday with Three Forks Lodge in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. Local guides will help you cut the half-metre-thick ice and give you tips on how to tempt the fish out of the depths of the frozen lake - all in time to bring home your catch and tell your tales in front of the cabins roaring log fire.

nordic Flatlands

If the idea of sliding down any kind of hill gives you the shivers then cross-country skiing is the winter sport for you. Executed with especially designed bindings that allow your foot to lift away from the ski, cross-country skiing slows down the pace, is a thorough work-out, and allows long stretches of meditative time in which to soak up the snow-scape. Svalbard, the Norwegian island that sits between the mainland and the North Pole, is one of the only places on Earth where you can cross-country ski in a landscape so remote that your only company are the wandering polar bears. It is also a duty-free tax haven, which means its great for buying gold, silver and the regional speciality, fur.

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arctic adventureOne of the fantastic species to be witnessed in the artic is of course reindeer. The best way to see them is to visit the Sami people of northern Sweden in the wilds of Lapland. The tour company Rokka can guide you to the reindeer marking ceremony, a traditional yearly-event in which each herdsman marks his newborn reindeer calves.

FrencH classic

From Lebanon to Liechtenstein, almost every country with a mountain range has a ski resort nowadays but if youre looking for one of the best, Courchevel is your answer. Nestled high in the French Alps, with four separate resorts ranging from 1300 to 1850 metres-above-sea-level, Courchevel offers both near-vertical couloirs for the expert and gentle Green slopes for first-timers.

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he man behind Studio 54, historys best known nightclub, is back on the scene. After winning the hearts of Seventies stars from Bianca Jagger to Andy Warhol, Schrager spent the following three decades hosting the next generation of celebrity clientele including Kate Moss and Jade Jagger

Ian Schragers latest project is a reminder of why hes still the worlds coolest hotelier

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tat his growing number of cult hotels such as the Gramercy, New York, and the Delano, Miami.

Understanding the power of sensational design to uplift a crowd, the upbeat New Yorker, who commented, I am committed to the idea that the future will always be better than the past, dragged

I am committed to the idea that the future will always

be better than the pastIan Schrager

above: BIANCA JAggER RIDINg INTO STUDIO 54 FOR HER 30TH BIRTHDAY

PARTY IN 1977. PHOTO: ROSE HARTMAN. IMAgE COURTESY OF gLADYS MARCUS

LIBRARY DEPARTMENT OF SPECIAL COLLECTIONS AND FIT ARCHIVES.

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with a party atmosphere. In London this means restored architectural features, iconic art by Donald Judd and Salvador Dali in the rooms, and an invitation-only basement night club. In Istanbul guests will find a Cipriani restaurant, ESPA health spa and club called Billionaire. Credited with driving the boutique hotel concept, each of Schragers hotels is designed to be different from the others and to reflect its individual style and location. People do not want something derivative. They want the real thing and this is the whole idea behind Edition, says Schrager.

The surprise partner in all this is Marriott, the hotel chain responsible

hospitality away from dull formality and restored hotels to being the socialising hot spots they had formerly been. It was Schrager who rebooted the status lobby using fantastic centrepieces and seductive bar culture, and who reintroduced the in-house night club, the contemporary answer to the historic hotel ballroom.

The expansive host has re-appeared refreshed in 2013 with the launch of his new project, Edition Hotels. The hotel line, now open in London and Istanbul, with plans for branches in Miami in 2014 followed by New York, Abu Dhabi, India, China and Bangkok, employs Schragers trusted formula of status dining plus top notch spa treatments and fantastic design

above and below:

THE LONDON EDITION HOTEL

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Aldridge, artist Tracy Emin and artist Harland Miller, singer Solange Knowles and artist Toyin Odutola, and Lagerfeld muse Amanda Harlech and young fashion designer Jonathan Anderson. The concept, it seems, is to reflect on the collaboration behind the Edition project, between Marriott and Schrager.

The past 40 years of Schragers career have been a lesson in how to sell luxury sleepovers upstairs off the back of high octane parties in the basement. With the powerhouse of Marriott beneath Schragers creative direction, Edition is bound to set a new standard that will have guests expecting a boutique-style experience from every branch of a chain hotel .

for managing each Edition. In case his impressive razzmatazz isnt enough to overshadow this somewhat downbeat half of the relationship, Schrager has enlisted Nowness, the influential online platform for art, fashion and design, to create a sequence of editorial videos to accompany the launch of Edition.

Between them, Nowness and Schrager have opened their contact books to interview a handful of outstanding names from art, fashion and contemporary music. The resulting series of short films depict discussions about pairs of collaborative partnerships between collaborators including the editor of Vogue Italia Franca Sozzani and fashion photographer Miles

below: VIDEO STILLS OF FRANCA

SOZZANI AND TRACY EMIN FILMED

BY NOWNESS FOR EDITION HOTELS

above : THE ISTANBUL

EDITION HOTEL

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LEILA ALAoUI.

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My City withPHOTOGRAPHER

LEILA ALAOUIWhat are the best and worst things about Marrakech?When I say I grew up in Marrakech people tend to think of an exotic Arabesque city, and its true. I have incredible memories of growing up in a place that can be so magical and warm I think this is why it has attracted so many artists and jet-setters from all over the world. Although Moroccan culture and traditions are deeply present in Marrakech, I like that it is also a very open-minded and international place where everyone can feel comfortable. However, personally I feel that Marrakech has lost some of its charm and soul over the past decade. For example the city central market has been destroyed despite it being the heart of the city where everyone used to meet and mingle. Now it is becoming another banal shopping centre.

Can you share some of the citys best-kept secrets?Al Maquam is an artists residency project in the Berber village of Tahanaout, 20 minutes drive away from Marrakech. It is still little known even though its open for all. This beautiful project was created by Mourabiti, a Moroccan painter who built a self-sustainable retreat around his house, with an eco-restaurant, a bookstore, a small gallery, and bedrooms for visitors and artists. The architecture is simple but very cosy, charming and earthy and set in a natural environment. Everything is constructed to be in harmony with the village. It is my favorite place for lunch in the countryside, to reconnect with the artistic community and friends in Marrakech. Well-known Moroccan artists are also involved in Al Maquam, such as Mahi Bine Bine, who has his own studio there.

Whats the real Marrakech?The real Marrakech is the one I grew up in as a child and a teenager in the 1980s and 1990s. Marrakech was a small town, disconnected from the rest of the world, but it attracted many fascinating and sophisticated people who all fell in love with the city and decided to make it their second home. I didnt realise then how lucky I was to have parents who fell in with the creative communities of artists

that later became legendary. I remember walking with my parents in the busy streets of the old city to arrive at lunches and dinners in incredible secret houses, where we would meet people like Yves Saint Laurent, Bernado Bertolucci, Quincy Jones, Serge Lutens and Naomi Campbell. This glamour is hidden behind closed doors in the city, which is part of its romance.

What do you miss when youre away?A good body scrub at the best traditional Moroccan hamam Les Bains de Marrakech.

Can you describe your perfect day in Marrakech?Waking up early for a bicycle tour in the palmeraie before having a healthy lunch at Le Jardin with friends. Then spending the afternoon discovering cool shops in the old city, with a stop at Gallery 127, which is the only photography gallery in Morocco and has a sharp selection of Moroccan and international photographers. End the day with drinks at sunset on the roof of Vanessa Bransons beautiful Riad El Fenn.

Which is your favorite gallery or shop?I love Riad Yima in the old city. This gallery, boutique and tearoom is owned by the artist Hassan Hajjaj and gives an insight into his world. He sells his fashion and furniture pieces here and its very colourful. It feels like a creative studio and is super Moroccan yet very personal. A great place for a traditional mint tea.

Which 5 keywords best expressthe mood of Marrakech?Colourful, sensual, dry, tranquil and mysterious.

If Marrakech were an outfit, what would it be? Something between contemporary fashion and traditional Moroccan dress, like one of the creations by Amine Bendriouich, a designer who is originally from Marrakech and who collaborates with London-based Moroccan contemporary pop artist Hassan Hajjaj.

TAMSLOHT FROM THE MOROCCANS SERIES, LEILA ALAOUI PHOTOgRAPHY, 2011

LEILA WITH YVES SAINT LAURENT, ADOLFO DE VELASCO

AND HIS DAUgHTER AT A FAMILY LUNCH

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world Six of the Best

01Hotel elqui domos , Chile

Whats the concept? Snuggle down beneath the duvet while swooning under the celestial canopy. geodesic dome hotel rooms feature detachable roof-hatches where crystal-clear skies can be viewed in their element. Or opt for the panoramic views from observatory cabins.

Who goes there? The green-carpeted Elqui Valley, in the secluded north of Chile, with its clear skies and barren mountains, has attracted poets and mystics since the 1960s. The Domos has special deals for honeymooning couples but just as many come looking for spiritual growth as it offers an ideal place to meditate and for Reiki healing.

hoW much? $155, May to November; $190, December to April

What makes it special? The serenity and the mild dry climate. The tranquil valley, with no urban intrusions or pollution, makes this a perfect place to get close to the stars while sleeping in comfort and enjoying gourmet cuisine.

www.elquidomos.cl

02Hotel rang , iCeland

Whats the concept? Apart from in summertime, Icelandic days are short and the nights long but the longer the night, the more chance there is of seeing the bewitchingly beautiful northern lights, or Aurora Borealis. Hotel staff at Rang wake guests when the lights start dancing so you can sleep easy while knowing youll still catch this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Who goes there? Young hipsters, nature-lovers and relaxed couples rub shoulders here. South Iceland is full of spectacular sights, from volcanoes to hot springs, and appeals particularly to rugged adventurers. The hotel also arranges wedding ceremonies, both indoors or nearby at a waterfalls.

hoW much? Sign up to The Age of the Aurora deals by staying for four nights between September and April for 724 Euros for two people in a standard room, 952 Euros for a deluxe rooms, with 500 and 750 Euro upgrades for junior and master suites which are themed around each of the seven continents.

What makes it special? Aurora Borealis is an amazing phenomenon carried by solar winds through space to light up the Arctic night sky in greens, yellows, reds or purples. The chances of witnessing northern lights are best in 2014 and 2015 as we come in to a solar maximum phase of a 24-year cycle.

www.hotelranga.is

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03lake tekapo , new Zealand

Whats the concept? This pristine lake, framed by the snow-capped Southern Alps, is already stunning by day and at night between April and September it also becomes the best place to see the Southern Lights. South-facing Mount John Observatory, above the lake, is the ideal place to view this symphony of colour, and marvel on any night at how different the stars and constellations look from Down Under.

Who goes there? Outdoorsy types who love trout-fishing, walking, skiing, mountaineering, bathing in hot pools and visiting the geological marvel of the suspended stone flour from glaciers which gives the lake its distinctive milky turquoise hue.

hoW much? Lake Tekapo Scenic Resort, located in a small town, has studios and units for between $195 and $235 (NZ dollars).

What makes it special? Witnessing the Southern Lights is something else and on top of that you get to see the night sky from another perspective. New Zealands South Island is the largest International Dark Sky Reserve in the world. You can ski, fish and climb mountains by day and stargaze by night.

www.laketekapo.com

04stargazing saFari , TanZania

Whats the concept? In February 2014 the Lions By Day & Leo By Night package brings together the great spectacle of millions of wildebeest and zebra racing across the Tanzanian plain chasing the rains, with lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas and jackals in hot pursuit, and high-altitude vistas of the Milky Way, with almost double the number of constellations visible here than in the Northern Hemisphere.

Who goes there? This safari combines enough luxury in its camping facilities to attract those who fancy a taste of adventure but still want their comforts. Youngsters and beginners at astronomy and nature-watching mix with those who are more experienced.

hoW much? The seven-day safari (with accommodation, meals, drinks and guides) costs between 2500 and 3300, not including flights, tips or visa.

What makes it special? Theres not only big game to see from 4x4 Land Cruisers, but also rare bird species and the dramatic flora of the high savannah in northern Tanzania, as well as the striking culture of the Maasai peoples. From the African highlands the dark nebulae of the Milky Way looks more impressive, especially from the Ngorongoro Crater, which is almost 9,000ft high.

www.leobynight.com

STARGAZING SPOTS

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world Six of the Best

05kasbaH Hotel saHara sky , MoroCCo

Whats the concept? Positioned exactly where the mighty Sahara Desert begins, at the foot of the first range of dunes, this hotel was built specifically for the purpose of gazing at the billions of stars, nebulae and galaxies from a Star Terrace. Equipped with state-of-the-art telescopes available for guests this is a casual and comfortable way to watch the skies.

Who goes there? Families who want to relax and explorative types wishing to trace the classic Caravan route from Marrakech to Timbuktu as the area around the Atlas mountains and southern Morocco is steeped in Berber culture. Temperatures are bearable from October to June.

hoW much? Rooms range from 290 to 540 Moroccan Dirhams.

What makes it special? For anyone following the caravan route to Timbuktu the Sahara Sky is perhaps the last comfort break before a 65-day journey by camel across the desert. Surrounded by achingly beautiful vistas the hotel has a basic spa for a laid back, rustic experience. guests have the option of riding a camel into the desert and sleeping with nomads for a night.

www.hotel-sahara.com

06natural bridges national monument , UTah, USa

Whats the concept? This canyon in remote southeast Utah was designated the first International Dark Sky Park in 2007. Natural bridges, made from rock that was created thousands of years ago when a river changed course, frame the Milky Way. Beneath Owachomo Bridge is the optimum site for stargazing.

Who goes there? Families, couples and walking groups. Natural Bridges can be explored in a day and a night with a 8.6-mile loop walking and cycling trail suitable for all ages, taking in all three bridges. Less active types can ride by car. The weather varies enormously throughout the year and the best times to visit are April, May, September and October.

hoW much? Camping costs $10 per night and a three day visitors pass costs $3. The nearest hotel accommodation is 38 miles east in Blanding.

What makes it special? The remoteness of the site means it takes extra effort to get here 400 miles from Las Vegas and it couldnt be more of a contrast from those bright lights but for anyone in the USA in search of the ultimate place to see the stars this is worth the trip as its the darkest sky ever assessed in the USA.

www.nps.gov

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Selections takes you around the world from rooftops to

mountain tops via a remote island escape and a new design hotel

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WORLD Hand-picked

histoRiC BistRo BORchaRDt, BERLIN

This well-known eaterie has been a society spot since the late nineteenth century. Over 100 years later the building was reconstructed after the Second World War and began to

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Selections # 24