Selections # 25

LBP 10.000 / KWD 2.5 / AED 37

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Glorious Haute

Couture

Cloud art by Berndnaut

Smilde

What to see at Design

Days Dubai Reading

poetry with Hemmerle

The world's most

beautiful gardens

Special section curated by

Mathaf director

Abdellah Karroum

24- pages on Stylish

Weddings

the Romantic issue

www.ayyamgallery.com

ayyam gallery|al quoz

Samia HalabyFive Decades of Painting and Innovation

Curated by Maymanah Farhat

19 February - 30 April 2014

Samia Selections Magazine DPS.indd All Pages 3/9/14 2:05 PM

6Editor's Letter

The turn of Spring always brings a new romance a romance with life, as the world wakes up again in an explosion of colour and beauty. In this March/April issue we look to all things fanciful, drawing on this seasons mood in fashion a modern take on a very pretty fairytale. Tapping into this feminine blossoming we have a 24-page Weddings Special all about the stylish side of getting married, plus we take a light-hearted look at wedding traditions from around the world. Staying in the emotional realm,

we share some of the touching words from a new book of poetry by Bavarian jeweller Hemmerle, and look at why Berndnaut Smildes elusive Nimbus photographs continue to capture so many hearts around the world.

Our wonderful fashion and luxury expert Avril Groom reports back from the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, in Geneva, and from the Paris Haute Couture shows, which have been especially illustrated for Selections by Swedish illustrator Amelie Hegardt in her elegant style. Timed perfectly for when the new collections arrive in store, our London trend forecaster presents all the mens and womens ready-to-wear trends for Spring/Summer, and we merge fashion with design in our interview with Serge Bensimon he of tennis shoe fame! after I had the pleasure of spending the day with him in Paris earlier this year. Fashion and interior decoration come together later on, as the cult Finnish design studio Marimekko guides us around its hometown Helsinki.

My warmest thanks go to Abdellah Karroum, director of Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, for putting together his personal sequence of art works for our Curated By pages. It is a great pleasure to be able to collaborate with such a visionary curator, at an esteemed institution, to look at modern and contemporary Arab art through his individual lens.

For even more art, Selections supplement the Art Paper opens with a review of Mona Hatoum: Turbulence, one of Mathaf s most engaging exhibitions to date. Speaking with the Beirut-born, Palestinian-British artist at the opening event gave a one-off insight into how this important creative voice from the Middle East thinks and works. I invite you to look further into the paper for more at this exciting time of year, when many diverse creative voices come together in our region.

Editors LEttEr

8l u x u r y l i f e s t y l e

LIFESTYLE NEWS

POETRY WITH HEMMERLE

SIHH REVIEW

FREDERIC MARCILHAC

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Contents

FASHION NEWS

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE

SERGE BENSIMON INTERVIEW

WOMENSWEAR TRENDS

MENSWEAR TRENDS

CHANEL GOES ARTY

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WORLDWIDE WEDDING TRADITIONS

SYMBOLS OF FLOWERS

ENGAGEMENT RINGS

DRESS DESIGNERS

CATWALK WEDDING DRESSES

DESTINATION WEDDINGS

BENJAMIN FOURNIER INTERVIEW

BULGARI BRIDAL JEWELLERY

THE NEW HONEYMOONS

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f a s h i o n

w e d d i n g

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shapeshift ing in par is

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w o r l d

a r t & d e s i g n

Publisher City News Privilege [email protected]

Editor in Chief Rima Nasser+961 3 852 [email protected]

EditorKasia Maciejowska

Managing EditorHelen Assaf

Pictures EditorRowina Bou Harb

Advertising & PR+961 3 852 899 [email protected]

DistributionMessagerie du Moyen Orient de la Presse et du Livre s.a.l. +961 487 999

ContributorsAvril Groom, Rich Thornton, Lucy Knight, India Stoughton, Thomas Rees, Owen Adams, Patrick Simeon, Alberto Mucci, Alia Fawaz, Anya Stafford, Eliana Maakaroun, Rowan Clare, Nour Harb

In-house IllustratorYasmina Nystenwww.yasminanysten.com

Guest illustratorAmelie Hegardt

Art Director Peter Korneev

PrintingChamas for Printing & Publishing [email protected]

With special thanks to Abdellah Karroum

www.citynewspublishing.com

ART & DESIGN NEWS

ART BEAT

BERNDNAUT SMILDE

DESIGN DAYS DUBAI

MAISON & OBJET TRENDS

Curated by abdellah karroum

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COVER IMAGE: Schiaparelli haute couture Spring 2014

illuStrated by amelie hegardt for SelectionS www.ameliehegardt.com

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WORLD NEWS

PARIS WITH SOFITEL

HELSINKI WITH MARIMEKKO

six of the best formal gardens

Hand Picked

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COVER IMAGE: Schiaparelli haute couture

Spring 2014 illuStrated by amelie hegardt for SelectionS

www.ameliehegardt.com

Publisher City News Privilege [email protected]

Editor in Chief Rima Nasser+961 3 852 [email protected]

EditorKasia Maciejowska

Managing EditorHelen Assaf

Pictures EditorRowina Bou Harb

Advertising & PR+961 3 852 899 [email protected]

DistributionMessagerie du Moyen Orient de la Presse et du Livre s.a.l. +961 487 999

Distribution QatarMessagerie de Moyen [email protected]

Distribution UAEGLS International Media Placement

ContributorsAvril Groom, Rich Thornton, Lucy Knight, India Stoughton, Thomas Rees, Owen Adams, Patrick Simeon, Alberto Mucci, Alia Fawaz, Anya Stafford, Eliana Maakaroun, Rowan Clare, Nour Harb

In-house IllustratorYasmina Nystenwww.yasminanysten.com

Guest illustratorAmelie Hegardt

Art Director Peter Korneev

PrintingChamas for Printing & Publishing [email protected]

With special thanks to Abdellah Karroum

www.citynewspublishing.com

See www.roche-bobois.com for collections, news and catalogues

Blogger modular sofa, design Roberto Tapinassi & Maurizio Manzoni Diagonal bookshelf, design Luigi Gorgoni. Cuba Libre coffe tables, design Daniel Rode.

BEIRUT DOWNTOWN33 rue Weygand Tel: +961 1 986 888/[email protected]

lart de vivreby roche bobois

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{ CristaL BEirut } this year the cold lebanese mountains hosted the 9th Mena Cristal festival in february. the event brought together the regions brightest minds of the advertisement world and tested their ideas in front of a stellar jury made up of McCanns chief executive creative officer Pierre odendaal and Martin spillmann of leo Burnett Zurich.the prize for company of the year went to starcom MediaVest group that scooped up a total of nine honours including Best use of Branded Content and transport and tourism. a very pleased chief executive officer John antoniades said: we look forward to taking our clients and their brands even further in the future.

{ China LovEs Lux } China is a multifaceted super power making strides in every industry and according to a recently published study from Contactlab, a digital marketing company based in london, the luxury market is no exception. data shows that four out of five of those surveyed in shanghai have purchased at least one luxury item in the last 12 months, and will do again within the next six months. what is even more striking about the Contactlab results is that in the next six months the shanghai luxury-lovers will outdo their new york counterparts by spending on average 66% more.

{ ski north korEa } north Korea is probably the last country that comes to mind when thinking about a skiing holiday. yet it is now possible. a new resort in the town of Masik, in Kangwon province, has recently opened its doors to the public. with the help of uritours.com, a us based travel firm that specialises in trips to the dPrK, you can now enjoy the thirteen ski slopes, two of them for beginners. Prior to the resorts opening the dPrK had only one ski slope. for enthusiasts things are looking up and if you decide to take the chance and head to north Korea you might be even lucky enough to bump into dennis rodman, who recently garnered media attention for his visits to the country.

luxury lifeStyle

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{ LagErfELd for dupont } haute pens require an haute designer. the purveyors of classic pens and cufflinks since 1872, the french brand s.t. dupont has teamed up, for a second time, with prolific designer Karl lagerfeld to produce a collection of suitably elegant pens. a pioneer in all things cutting edge, lagerfelds white & Matte-Black Collection draws inspiration from the digital. it is for this reason that the pens are in optic white and are covered in a black lacquer finish these days we may use our fingertips to do most of our writing but this lagerfeld and duponts collaboration proves the pen is most definitely not dead.

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{ shangri-La in thE shard } imagine being able to lie in a bathtub while over looking Big Ben. it would be a luxurious treat indeed as would sipping a drink in the dead of night while overlooking an unmatched view of london from what is now the tallest building in western europe. this May, as the new shangri-la hotel in londons shard opens, such scenes can come to life. the new hotel will occupy floors 34 to 53 of the 72-storey scraper. guests will be escorted to the hotel via a high-speed elevator and will reach rooms filled with acqua di Parma products, heated floors and floor to ceiling windows. from July the 52nd floor will host the gng bar, soon to be londons tallest watering hole.

{ raymond wEiL diEs } when, in January, raymond weil passed away at the age of 87, the luxury watch industry lost an icon. weil founded the eponymous watch brand in 1976 and despite the inflow of quartz watches manufactured in asia, it wasnt long until his venture turned into a success and his work was internationally recognized. among the first to see the watch as a luxury accessory, he is also famously noted as being the man who brought the showpiece watch within reach of those with more style than fortune.

{ nEw oriEnt ExprEss } immortalised by the agatha Christie novel Murder on the orient express the legendary train that ran from Paris to istanbul bid a sad farewell to travellers back in 2009 but is now set to make a come back. frances snCf rail group, which has owned the brand name since 1977, has pledged that the iconic railway journey will be up and running again within the next five years. to achieve this goal snCf teamed up with luxury trunk maker Moynat (part of the lVMh group) to create a number of products carrying the orient express name. high-end travel on the tracks is finally back.

{ 1001 nights in a roLLs } the Middle east loves cars and for many in the region the bigger the better. in an attempt to answer demands from this part of the world rolls-royce Motor Cars has decided to launch an arabian nights-inspired limited edition named 1001 nights Collection. over the years the region has become an important market for the British car manufacturer and it should therefore come as no surprise that rolls-royces new model draws on the cultural symbols of the arab world. if given the possibility, perhaps scheherazade, the legendary queen of one thousand and one nights, would have chosen one of these luxury vehicles over the magic carpet.

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luxury l ifestyle POETRY WITH HEMMERLE

Art publisher MACK and jewellery house Hemmerle collaborate to compose a book of poetry - as much of a pleasure to hold as it is to read

n the blossoming, misty carpet of meadow, my colourful, starry one, I will recognise your beauty; In the winter we shall travel in a little pink railway carriage with blue cushions; If they were seen

from Paradise no one would have been more beautiful; Sight to the blind I

can restore by you, heal every wound, and every loss renew these

heady lines, not often read together, can be found side by side in the unusual context of an artistic book about fine jewellery this Spring. Drawn respectively from poetry

by the German Wolfgang von Goethe, the Frenchman

Arthur Rimbaud, the Persian Fakhr Al-Din Asad Gorgani, and

the Italian Michelangelo Buonarotti, these words in their fuller versions will

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accompany either a brooch, a necklace, or an earring for the one-off publication, which is being produced by Hemmerle in collaboration with the excellent independent art book publisher MACK.

The German jewellery house is releasing the book to accompany its new collection Natures Jewels. The publication pairs romantic poems in eight different languages from around the world with a sequence of made-to-order jewellery pieces, each of which takes its shape from the branches of a different fruit tree. Christian Hemmerle and his Egyptian wife Yasmin are responsible for the brands creative direction under the directorship of Christians parents Stefan and Sylveli. The younger generation has worked with the up-and-coming British poet Greta Bellamacina to source the poetry. As Christian explains, As a poet herself, Gretas expertise meant we could include some of the best poetry from all over the world. We chose the selection together, not only for the emotions they convey, but also for their individual qualities and whimsical styles.

Our own philosophy resonates with poetry - originality, beauty, boldness, creativity, and technical understanding go in to making both.

That the Hemmerle atelier continues to ex-ist represents a dedication to the painstaking and committed craftsmanship which goes against the fly-by-night pace of contemporary digital culture. The company has remained in the same family for four generations since its foundation in 1893 to make medals for the Bavarian court. The boutique, on Maximillianstrasse in Munich, has remained in the same location since it opened in 1904. Some among the jewellery objects being shown in this new book took around 500 hours to make.

The book itself has been composed with considerable vision, as papers of varying weight and translucency allow sketches of each plant

hazel nut brooch,

diamondS, gold, copper

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to overlay the poems, which have been hand-written by calligraphers for the publication. Combined with the texture of the cover, this makes it very much an object of desire in its own right. The poems are printed in

their original languages with English translations included at the back. They date

from between the 11th century and the present day, and include different poetic forms ranging from a Japanese Haiku by Basho to a German sonnet by Rilke.

In contemporary jewellery design the emphasis falls all-too-often on high-impact pieces full of bling, and as a result the delicate and the unusual are forced into the shadows of the jewellery world today. Against this context, Hemmerles pieces are a welcome counterpoint as they set fantastic stones magical sounding things like orange-pink sapphires and green diamonds - in muted materials such as copper or rare woods. While understated in a certain way, these materials mean that pieces made by Hemmerle actually stand out more than would the most sparkling stone housed in the brashest setting. It is a pleasant surprise to see such intricate carving and muted colours, which are perfectly suited to the naturalistic new collection. From Christians point of view, We are inspired by what we see around us in culture, history, art, architecture and the natural world. We are innovators who are prepared to take risks that keep us at the vanguard.

Hemmerle launches the Natures Jewels collection at TEFAF in Maastricht from 14th-23rd March 2014

eucalyptuS brooch

diamondS, gold, bronze, braSS

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luxury l ifestyle SIHH REVIEW

s a showcase for some of the world's most luxurious watch brands, the annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) fair in Geneva routinely produces

inventions whose ingenuity and beauty are truly remarkable. The most intricate are so time-consuming and expensive to make that only a handful ever enter the market but the new ideas that come from them can inspire the wider industry for years to come. This year is no exception - right now the watch world has two obsessions - the night sky and astronomical functions, and the most exquisite dial craft. Here are some of the most imaginative and impressive new models on show:

a

THEMOON

AND THE STARS

Watchmakers turned to the skies for inspiration as the latest crop of timepieces launched at

the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie this year looked to their astronomical source

w o r d s : : a v r i l g r o o m

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Fabuleux Ornements by Vacheron Constantin

With four of the of the most beautiful

mtiers d'art watches ever, each of

these has a super-delicate openwork

movement surrounded by a design

of high craft and gemwork, each

representing a different culture:

French lacework in engraved gold

and precious stones on a guilloch

dial with translucent enamel,

Ottoman latticework in a complex

gold grid with tiny pearls, Indian

manuscripts with multi-coloured

enamelled and engraved flowers,

and Chinese embroidery with

engraved precious stone flowers and

cloisonn work.

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luxury l ifestyle SIHH REVIEW

Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna by A. Lange und Shne

The front is a typically sober looking,

functional disk with clear, finely

executed details - but the reverse is

a riot. It features a patented orbital

moonphase display showing the

position of the moon, as well as its

phases, in the northern hemisphere

in relation to a beautifully designed

earth and a gold sun represented by

part of the open movement.

Ballon Blanc by Cartier

If the Ballon Bleu has been a huge

hit for the brand, its new little white

sister looks set to equal it. The

sapphire crown is replaced with a

faceted diamond (purely ornamental

- the crown is recessed in the back)

and the softly-flexible bracelet

consists of round links - some

models shimmer with a diamond

cupped in each one. Even though

it isnt particularly revolutionary and

some models are quartz it is still

particularly lovely. The best ideas

are often the simplest and this is the

perfect modern evening watch.

Altiplano 38 mm 900P by Piaget

Piaget breaks yet another record for

slimness with a revolutionary design

in which the baseplate is also the

caseback and the ex-centric dial is

recessed at the same level, so the

whole thing is only 3.65 mm thick.

Not just a technical masterpiece

but beautiful too - the openwork

movement and dial are an elegant

and harmonious, unisex design and

the diamond-trim version could make

grown women weep. Furthermore,

by the standards of these things,

it's not overpriced considering the

workmanship involved.

Midnight Planetariumby Van Cleef and Arpels

More than just an accurate orrery (a

model of the solar system) on your

wrist but poetically made of precious

stones as befits a jewellery brand

watch. Six concentric discs of dark,

sparkly aventurine each bear a

different coloured stone planet that,

courtesy of an innovative movement,

rotates in real time around a golden

sun - the outer one, Saturn, takes 29

years. You can set the date, month

and year and it even tells the time by

a golden comet on a 24-hour dial.

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luxury l ifestyle FREDERIC MARCILHAC

Art historian Flix Marcilhac amassed an incredible collection of Art Nouveau works throughout his life - until now, when he decided it was time to redistribute them through the expert hands of Sothebys and Artcurial

t feels near-impossible to define Flix Marcilhac in only a few words. The 74-year-old Parisian is at the same time a collector, an art-historian, the founder of the Ren Lalique museum, a journalist, a professor and one of the greatest experts in

Art Nouveau in recent decades. This long list of achievements is made even more impressive by the fact that the above titles come coupled with a smile that has been described by his close friends as being, Larger than life.

When Sothebys, in collaboration with Artcurial, announced that the auction of Marcilhacs private collection

Some of the pieces from Marcilhacs collection have not been seen by the public for years

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luxury l ifestyle FREDERIC MARCILHAC

Never miss the chance to buy an object you

like. You will be able to find the money later,

but not the object

nautile chair by paul iribe

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would take place on the 11th and 12th of March this year, the art world became abuzz. Ccile Verdier, Sothebys director for Europe, recently explained how, Some of the pieces from Marcilhacs collection have not been seen by the public for years. Flix Marcilhac is reputed to be very charming yet quiet and private. Beyond his most intimate circle, very few have ever been allowed to enter his house to admire his exemplary collection.

The story goes that Marcilhacs devouring passion for works in the Art Nouveau style developed after his friend Jeanne Lanvin, the late fashion designer and admired founder of Maison Lanvin,

donated Gustave Mikloss Femme to him in a moment of generosity. The statues beauty, with its elegant lines and absence of excess must have struck a deep chord with the soon-to-be-collector as from that moment Marcilhac was reportedly hooked, and begun his perpetual search for similar art that he admired. Never miss the chance to buy an object you like. You will be able to find the money later, but not the object this cherished saying of his informed Marcilhacs voracious collecting.

Continuing to create a personal array of works that was in keeping with his vision throughout many decades, he was

able to accumulate a remarkable number of rare artworks and design objets, ranging from Paul Iribes classic Leopard Chair to Ossip Zadkines Gold Figure, which sit alongside Jean Dunands cabinet featuring colourful motifs themed on a sand dune, Maurice Marinots intricate and elegant glass bottles, and the quasi-mythological sculptures of Jospeh Csaky Paon. When asked in a recent interview if he was unhappy about selling his collection Marcilhac responded that, to the contrary, he had decided long ago that the art he would accumulate would one day be returned to the general public, to whom he feels it belongs.

paon by JoSef cSaky

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faShion

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{ harrods hits thE skiEs } the Qatari-owned london department store harrods has partnered with British airways to present designer looks to passengers at 30,000 feet. the first ever such high-altitude catwalk took place on 6th february on Bas new a380 route from london to Johannesburg, south africa. new-season looks were shown by British designers stella McCartney, Jenny Packham, ralph & russo and Victoria Beckham. each sky-high show from now on will be curated differently by the department store to show a different mix of designers every time. rather disappointingly, however, these high-style events will only happen on this same specific route, and only on press-flights. regular passengers will have to start staging their own.

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{ marC JaCoBs rEvamp } following his departure from louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs is focusing all his attention on his own-name fashion house. the diffusion line Marc by Marc Jacobs has been rebranded and designed by his close friends and life-long collaborators Katie hillier and luella Bartley, who debuted their first collection for aw14/15 with great success. the style of this new line will be built around how women like to dress in real life, mixing classic pieces with casual wear and maybe adding some grunge details the signature of Bartleys own relaxed British look and the style that built up Jacobs reputation. hillier will no doubt inject her playful genius into the accessories, for which she is widely acclaimed in the fashion world. Jacobs himself will focus on the main Marc Jacobs line, saying he will re-think everything but especially bags and shoes. at new york fashion week, in february, his brand opened a pop-up store for its daisy perfume, at which shoppers could pay not in dollars, but in tweets. no doubt we will see more of such engagement with his fans as Marc Jacobs enters this new phase.

{ hErms indigo sQuarEs } the classic french fashion house herms has just launched a capsule collection of scarves, all playing with the colour indigo. the very limited collection is made up of only four scarves, either in cashmere or silk, and combines printing and embroidery work to reinterpret some of the typical symbols seen on herms scarves in the past such as bridles, feathers, spurs and plants. the capsule collection pays tribute to the printing skill of the brands in-house artisans in lyon, france, and to the natural indigo fabric dyeing methods from northern Bangladesh and southern india. shoppers from the Middle east can find the collection online at www.hermes.com as the pieces will primarily be stocked only in Paris.

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{ thE un x karEn waLkEr } for spring summer the very cool eyewear designer Karen walker has partnered with one of the united nations ethical fashion initiatives in east africa which supports the work of artisan community groups in urban Kenya. the designer, who hails from new Zealand, is employing some of these creative groups to craft the handmade cases that come with her trend-setting shades. the advertising campaign for the collection, entitled Visible, portrays the people who make these cases wearing the Karen walker glasses, which come in zany shapes from oversized squares to wide and round, in different colours. speaking about the collection, the designer said, were delighted that this seasons eyewear will be making a real and meaningful impact. we hope that the campaign images will help to bring visibility to this place, these people and the work of the ethical fashion initiative. simone Cipriani from the initiative itself, added, Karen is a visionary and she clearly understood who we are at efi and the potential of working in africa with us. we like everything about this project which brings forward the positivity, dynamism and beauty of africa.

{ nExt LEvEL shoEs } the dubai store level shoe district welcomes a handful of new labels for spring summer that were keen on here at Selections. top of the list for us comes Mary Katrantzou, whose ready-to-wear collection this season was insanely pretty full of frills and flounces, crazy prints and dazzling colours, all crammed onto cute mini dresses. the designer is known for her bold prints and has just launched her own online store for international shopping. a woman on the rise, we highly recommend picking up some shoes from this inspired designer. a close second from level shoe districts new label list is Chlo. everything released by this feminine design house is on our wish list as the brand always creates pieces that are wearable and simple yet epitomise Parisian romance. were also excited about the addition of Vionnet, the historic house being revamped under hussein Chalayan this season. Men can look out for giuseppe Zanotti and loake just two of the new brands in the menswear department this season.

{ ChanEL CruisE in duBai } Chanel will launch its next Cruise collection with a catwalk show in dubai. the presentation for Cruise 2014/2015, also known as resort, will take place on 13th May 2014 as the french fashion houses latest international presentation comes to the Middle east. since 2000, Chanels Cruise collections have been travelling around the world from Paris to new york, los angeles, Miami, Venice, saint tropez, Cap dantibes, Versailles and singapore. sharing his reasons for choosing dubai, Chanels creative director Karl lagerfeld explained, as a futuristic megalopolis of the 21st century, the ever-developing emirate of dubai is a crossroads of civilisations between europe and asia. Mr lagerfeld himself will host the catwalk presentation, to which emirati fashionistas and indeed dedicated fans from across the region will undoubtedly flock en masse.

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{ BiLLionairE miChaEL kors } shares in Michael Kors eponymous brand rose 17% last month, giving him the official status of a billionaire. Kors wealth has exploded since the initial public sale of his company in december 2011. Kors has built his empire on the sort of sleek american look that has come to epitomise the universal style of the international jet set. his collections feature lean cuts in white and beige that merge an upmarket sportswear look with preppy styles and classic fits. Based in new york, the designer now heads an extensive fashion empire that includes lines of watches, handbags, womenswear, menswear and shoes. his style is appreciated for its wearability rather than its high design. in 2013, Kors was selected for time magazines list of the 100 most influential people in the world. he has also been acknowledged for his extensive charity work for organisations that help people with hiV/aids and cancer.

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fashion PARIS HAUTE COUTURE

Light, airy, fresh and very pretty, Parisian Haute Couture is lean and modern for Spring Summer 2014 as the venerated high-craft reinvents itself anew, with Marco Zanini at Schiaparelli, Hussein Chalayan at Vionnet, and of course Raf Simons at Dior, leading the charge

h aute couture may be an old-fashioned and rarefied concept but it still has the power to make fashion news. In a world craving the unique and the handmade, and with growing wealth to pay for them, the idea of an outfit proposed by a famous designer and then made to the clients personal requirements is irresistible, and the global clientele is increasing. Wherever these new clients come from, many of them are young, with modern attitudes, and they want modern clothes. So haute couture is transforming itself for a new era.

For this spring, two new names join the distinguished roster of couture designers - one at a revived historic house - and other venerable names have a new lightness of touch. Couture today is all about the work - shapes are simpler and more wearable than they were in the past because clients often like to order what they see on the catwalk rather than needing to alter it, but this gives great scope for handworked embellishment like beading, embroidery and lace. The trick is to use such traditional crafts in a modern way and for this summer the results really do seem as light as air.

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Raf Simons has brilliantly modernised Diors traditional codes over the past two years with his own minimalist viewpoint, and this season is no exception. Shapes vary from the simple A-lines, voluminous coats and jumpsuits that he loves, to the full skirts and corseted outlines of original Christian Dior, all graphic and clear, much of it monochrome and most with astonishing decoration of laser-cut organza, little half-circles fluttering open over a layer of dense beading, or bouncing lightly like a Chinese paper lantern, or floating in millefeuille horizontal pleats.

Dior

Dior Dior

Dior Dior

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Schiaparelli haute

couture Spring 2014



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Schiaparelli haute

couture Spring 2014



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Modern airiness is the main element that younger designers are bringing to couture now. Marco Zanini, late of Rochas, had a tough brief at Schiaparelli with the first collection for a house moribund since the 1950s, yet he exceeded expectations, with a nod to Elsas 1930s heyday in fitted and draped shapes and amazing craftwork - including pieces with far more decoration on the inside - or the superlight and airy shapes that he plainly loves. Prints reminiscent of Elsas drawings, outsize hats and jewels recall her well-known association with surrealism. British designer Hussein Chalayans debut at Vionnet revealed his interest in a different sort of conceptualism - with dresses based on paper patterns (a theme he has used in his own collections) alongside simple designs derived from the geometric shapes that Vionnet always used, enlivened with delicate pleats and made in the best couture fabrics.

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

Vionnet

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Couture-light was pioneered by the young design duo who took over at Valentino, and they take a new direction, inspired by music (gossamer ballet tutu skirts, opera scores beaded on organza) and something more tribal, with nave art versions of jungle animals hand appliqud on to monastic-looking raw silk or cashmere coats and capes. It is also a fort of young Parisian Alexis Mabille, who works cut lace edgings on to finely draped silk like Greek goddess gear, or cuts a sinuous, flattering gown in palest shades embroidered with fragile leaves and buds. The long-established are embracing it too. Chanels chiffon-ruffled trainers made headlines but are only part of a youthful, practical approach with loose, easy crop tops over short A-line or full skirts, even if the cinched waist between them is sculpted by a corset. Fabrics here are the lightest ever tweeds, organza, even feathers. Versaces hooded, 1980s-draped dresses prowl with metallic beading and swags of tiny silver chain, or dramatic tattoo beading on nude tulle, yet are supremely light and fluid, as are Elie Saabs ever more accomplished lace fantasies in indefinably subtle shades. Armani Priv layers complex looking yet airy, metallic lace over woven silk in geometrics and Paisleys inspired by mens ties for a shimmering, deep blue-based look hailing from somewhere between north Africa and Central Asia. Couture has rarely looked more appealing to its new young customer.

ValentinoElie Saab

Alexis Mabille

Elie SaabVersace

Elie Saab

Alexis Mabille

Armani Valentino

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Versace Valentino

Versace

Armani

Valentino

Elie Saab

Alexis Mabille

Armani

Elie Saab

Versace

Elie Saab

Armani

Versace

Valentino

Armani

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fashion SERGE BENSIMON INTERVIEW

42Serge benSimon

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ittle did Serge Bensimon know that what had originally started out as simply up-cycling old army clothes would soon became a world-famous fashion label. Yet this is how it went for the Parisian who built a small empire of style and culture up from his fathers business in military wear.

During the Forties and Fifties, M. Bensimon senior made a living importing and exporting garments that had lost much of their value and use after World War II. Serge and his brother Yves used to help out with the family business, and one day, during one of their business trips, they came across a huge stock of white shoes that would soon change their life. Without hesitation, the brothers bought the lot with a plan to paint

Serge Bensimon launched his brands signature plimsoles by painting them himself with his brother in the Eighties. He went on to become a well-known figure in the

Parisian creative retail scene with his concept store, design gallery, and now his own cult art bookshop

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fashion SERGE BENSIMON INTERVIEW

them and re-sell them at a higher price. Needless to say, the shoes were a hit and in no time Serge and Yves opened their first venture, Surplus Bensimon.

These same shoes can still be considered Serge Bensimons greatest success. The world-famous Bensimon Tennis shoe, with its simple, monochromatic and clean design, can be seen on the streets of most capital cities today and is frequently spotted on the chic and the famous. When asked about the secret behind his success, Bensimon smiles and answers that their ongoing appeal lies in, The practical and casual design of the shoe.

This widespread but straightforward success wasnt enough for Serges restless mind, as his creative side sought new horizons to explore and new ideas to bring to life. In 1989 he opened Autour du Monde in the Marais neighbourhood of Paris, the citys first concept-store. Twenty years later, in 2009, he founded his eponymous gallery in the same neighbourhood. Galerie Bensimon embodies Serges spirit of constant experimentation as inside the space the selected artists are given the freedom to experiment and create new compositions. The shop merges design works, textiles, ceramics, interior details and art pieces.

The result, as the owner describes it, is, An expressive space that sits somewhere between contemporary art and design.

Most recently, Serge added the title of cultural philanthropist to his already impressive list of achievements when he rescued Artazart, a historic Paris bookshop known for its vast collection of literature on design and the visual arts. When discussing how he stays on top of his numerous diverse projects, the fashion entrepreneur, gallerist and bookstore owner demonstrates his natural charm and humility by saying, I am lucky enough to have a team who understands exactly what I want. It makes everything easier.

AbOVE : gallery

benSimon, pariS

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fashion WOMENSWEAR TRENDS

The ready-to-wear catwalks were full of feminine flair,

reports London-based trend forecaster Thomas Rees as he talks us through each look

BoLd Citrus When Lena Dunham, the woman of the

moment thanks to her starring role as lead actor and writer of hit TV show Girls, wore yellow to the recent Golden Globes

Awards, she unwittingly set the trend for S/S 14. Uplifting, clean and positive, yellow offers the opportunity to stand out this season without

appearing too zany or rebellious. The best silhouettes in this hue are

feminine without being fussy.

FRESHEN UP

BurBerry

Vionnet

ralph lauren

SportmaxBurBerry

paul Smith

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LaCy Lady Whether vampy or virginal, gothic or romantic, for S/S 2014 lace works for every mood. Ralph Lauren

and Chanel uses many different laces in a conservative and wholesome manner, while Dolce&Gabbana, true to its Mediterranean roots, chooses full-length black

lace gowns embellished with heavy golden medallions.

Vionnet

ralph lauren

chanel

chanel

ralph lauren

marni

BurBerry

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wimBLEdon woman

This look invokes the British summertime and its world-famous tennis championship, Wimbledon.

Wearing these looks will transport you to a buzzy season spent courtside with strawberries

in one hand and cream in the other. Its all about simple sports references and soft drapes in luxurious satins. Necklines are round and arms are sleeveless while cute,

neat pleats mimic the games skirt from boarding school days. Wear these looks with a visor and platform

sandals if you want to win the game.

Sportmax

marni

Sportmax

Ferragamo

Ferragamo

Ferragamo

Sportmax

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fashion

hypEr fLoraLUber-femininity is the buzzword for S/S 14 and perhaps it comes as little surprise that floral print

trends are in. 3-D blossoms on lace shift dresses and large digital flowers on acid backgrounds of baby blue

and turquoise provide full-on glamour. The secret to this trend is that contrary to the regular rules of dressing in good taste, more is certainly more. Think loud and proud while wearing this trend.

VerSace

ralph lauren

marni

paul Smith

chriStian Dior

Dolce

VerSace

chriStian Dior

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Candy swEEthEart

After huge popularity during A/W, pastel tones are hanging around with designers upping their game by introducing a few extra shades. Styles are super-sweet with cucumber green and peach

jumping on the fashion band-wagon, and fabrics shimmer with girlie looks. Bare legs are shown off by short cuts and collarbones

flattered by off-the-shoulder cocktail dresses.

Vionnet

Vionnet

VerSace

BurBerry

chriStian Dior

chriStian Dior

BurBerry

fashion MENSWEAR TRENDS

London-based trend forecaster Thomas Rees unpicks the top four trends for men from this years Spring catwalks

CUT A DASH

SiBling

SiBling

gucci

VerSace BurBerry

gucci

soLid print

Head-to-toe prints and embroidery are a brave look for men this upcoming season. Show your softer side with suits covered in hand-decorated, romantic floral scenes. Push the statement even further by adding seemingly robotic digital images to the floral ensemble. And if not even that is enough, try the artistic approach: vibrant pink cartoonish strokes or elegant pale-blue and green lines and lastly, for the most daring, splashes of vibrant black or abstract colour.

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BurBerry

gucci

gucci

KriS Van aSSche

gucci

BurBerry

high-tECh This look stands as a

demonstration that the devil really is in the details. Garments are crafted in minute detail from technical and performance materials of weatherproof quality. The techie feel continues through the taped zips and the large pocket flaps embellished by press-studs. Jackets boast inbuilt hoods coupled with drawstrings and Velcro to protect against the risk of summer showers. Mirrored glasses and backpacks complete a trend that can be defined as perfect for being perpetually on-the-go.

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fashion MENSWEAR TRENDS

hermeS

KriS Van aSSche

KriS Van aSSche

iceBerg

gucci

gucci

thE minimaList

Effortless and quietly confident, lean, clean styles guarantee a cool sartorial summer. Relaxed looks gently reference sportswear while monochrome tops and trousers are paired with icy-toned leathers and soft plaster pink.

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summEr suit

Come rain or shine, suits are sometimes the only thing to wear for social engagements, formal occasions, and those times when you want to look dapper. Luckily this seasons style offers a practical solution that allows for smart dress on any occasion. Sharpe jackets worn with tailored shorts and combined with formal shoes and black socks are a chic alternative to the traditional suit. Large geometric, clean-lined prints in tonal colours create visual interest while retaining a level of sophistication.

Dior homme

gucci

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fashion CHANEL GOES ARTY

Chanel sent everyone back to art school this season with a rainbow-bright palette and a light-hearted attitude

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2014, Set deSign by olivier Saillant

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t his season Karl Lagerfeld sent his models down the Chanel runway dressed as walking paint boxes. The art world is continuously inspiring fashion, but this collection took things more literally than usual, covering dresses, bags and smocks in a palette-like print, and giving the models amusing accessories straight out of art school to carry, including paint brushes and portfolio cases. Mr Lagerfelds models looked as much like galleristas as they did like art students, with their pristine

fashion

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fashion CHANEL GOES ARTY

white boots offering a chic counterpoint to the wild make-up look created by Peter Philips for the show. The catwalk itself was lined with paintings and sculptures that played with the brands iconography, such as the double C logo, reformed into artworks. Best of all was the giant robot version of a Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle. Even the cosmetics collection for Spring takes a turn towards the arts, with the photography of the new make-up range framing lipsticks among the staves and clefs of musical notation.

AbOVE : chanel ready-to-wear

Spring Summer 2014,

Set deSign by olivier Saillant

lEft : chanel Spring 2014 make-up

collection, noteS of Spring

The Stylish Wedding

a 24 --- page special

weddings

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weddings WORLDWIDE WEDDING TRADITIONS

Weird and Wonderful

Wedding Traditions from Around the Globe

Weddings offer everyone a chance to eat, drink, and be merry, and around the world, cultures are united in their celebration of marriage as a joyful occasion that is decadently commemorated through food and entertainment. But there, the similarities stop. From the weird to the downright wild, each cultures marriage traditions offer distinctive, elaborate rituals to guarantee a prosperous and happy union for the newlyweds future.

w o r d s : r o w a n C l a r e

i l l u s t r a t i o n s : ya s M i n a n y s t e n

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Money DanceGREECE

Weddings are an expensive business and in Greece, where marriages are elaborate occasions that can last for several days, the highly anticipated money dance offers some friendly financial support. As the newlyweds dance together in the centre of the room, the surrounding crowds of applauding guests lavish them with paper money to set up their new life together. By the end of the performance, their wedding attire is laden with cash and, suddenly, that exotic honeymoon looks much more affordable.

KuMbh ViVah INDIA

Have you ever thought about marrying a tree? In India, you could find yourself saying I do to a banana tree before youre allowed to wed the man of your dreams. If a Hindu girls horoscope is afflicted with Mars, she is referred to as a Manglik, which, unfortunately for her, means shes a poor marriage prospect. This is big in a country that prioritizes harmonious wedlock based upon complicated astrological calculations, so her perceived more difficult characteristics must be neutralized through a symbolic marriage with a sacred tree before she can wed her future husband. Although this sounds like an archaic practice, Aisharya Rai, a high-profile Bollywood actress, married a banana tree before her actual marriage to another Indian film star in 2007.

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weddings WORLDWIDE WEDDING TRADITIONS

La Soupe FRANCE

If youre a die-hard Francophile you could follow their lead and dine from a chamber pot on your wedding night. A rather strange tradition unique to the fine-dining French, the bridal party dumps all leftover waste from the reception including champagne, cake and chocolate into a porcelain chamber pot and barges into the newlyweds room after the ceremony demanding that they drink it as fuel for the night ahead.

unity SanD cereMonyUSA (NATIVE AMERICAN PEOPLE)

America, that big old mixing pot, is renowned for its sponge-like absorption of cultural ingredients from around the globe. The popularity today of the Unity Sand Ceremony, which has its roots in Native American tradition, reflects contemporary Americans eagerness to integrate symbolic moments from other cultures into their wedding vows, regardless of their own ethnic background. The ritual involves pouring two containers of differently-coloured sand into a vase so the grains of sand sift into unusual layered patterns, with the two colours maintaining distinctive separation even as they form part of a larger mosaic. This symbolizes two individuals beginning a new life together, both maintaining their individuality while joining together in the creation of a new family unit. Throughout marriage, the vase acts as a visual reminder of the couples commitment to their love.

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Spitting on the briDeKENYA (THE MASSAI PEOPLE) In most countries, spitting is downright rude. But for the Massai people, in Kenya, it is seen as essential that the brides father spit on her head and chest as a blessing that will bring good luck and fortune to the newlyweds. Even more shocking for those from non-Massai backgrounds may be the fact that the women of the grooms family also insult the bride to ensure that all bad luck has been successfully warded off before the marriage begins. Once that is over, the bride must leave for her new home with her husband, never looking back in case she turns to stone.

bathrooM MoratoriuMMALAYSIA (THE TIDONG COMMUNITY)

The Tidong community takes their cleanliness very seriously. So seriously, in fact, that they prohibit the bride and groom from visiting the bathroom for three days and nights. Made possible through fasting and minimal water consumption, the newlyweds are watched by helpful relatives for the entire period to ensure that the ritual is adhered to. Tradition has it that those who breach the custom may suffer from a broken marriage, infertility, or death of their children at a young age - punishments not to be scoffed at. After three long days, they are bathed and allowed to return to normal life.

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weddings SYMBOLS OF FLOWERS

there was once a time in history when texting a lover with our desires, or even sending a love letter, was something you could only do with caution in stepped flowers. Gifts of floral arrangements, plants and blooms

were used to send coded messages. Victorian England and America were very fond of such practices, so much so that floral dictionaries were written to translate those messages that could not be spoken out loud.

From Shakespeare to Jane Austen; Van Gogh to Monet; the daffodil to the pansy, the use of flowers as a mode of sending a message, expressing a feeling, or merely creating something beautiful, is timeless. As the British novelist Iris Murdoch once said: People from a planet without flowers would think we must be mad with joy the whole time to have such things about us.

Flowers have the most significance at the key symbolic moments in our lives, from births to deaths and, of course, for marriage. Every species has its own implications - here are some of the best suited to weddings.

w o r d s : l u c y K n i g h t

in FULL BLOOMFlowers are more than just pretty decorations, as every species has a meaning

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orange bLoSSoMThe fragrant flower of the orange tree has been used since ancient China as a symbol of purity, chastity and innocence. Young brides would wear it on their gowns to reflect these then-desirable virtues. Some say it also represents fertility, while others deem it to bring good fortune two things that have made it a popular choice for bouquet arrangements and pretty head wreaths for brides on their big day.

SunfLowerA happy flower for a happy day! This bold, uplifting bloom is shamelessly in love with the sun and is often seen as a symbol of adoration. So representative is it of outward beauty that it came to stand for the late 19th centurys artistic aesthetic movement. This flower is positive and unpretentious, and always raises a smile.

babyS breathThese airy, cloud-like and delicate flowers are often used to accompany roses or lilies to lighten a bouquet but even standing alone they can be a simple and soft accessory for a bride. Technically the species is called gypsophila and is often associated with innocence and everlasting love, hence its more commonly known pseudonym, and its traditional association with the virginal blushing bride.

iriSThis flower is truly steeped in artistic and cultural history. The iris is said to symbolise inspiration and it certainly inspired the fleur-de-lis, a regal emblem that has appeared on coats of arms throughout Europe since the 10th century. Taken from the Greek word for rainbow, there are as many as 300 variations of this flower, so, endless choices abound when it comes to the big day. A grand choice.

roSeYour love is like a red, red rose so wrote the poet Robert Burns, most famously. If there were ever a flower that symbolised love in our modern age, it would have to be the rose. Of course white roses are a wedding classic but as a universal symbol for passion, choosing a red hue has become the most popular way to simply say, I love you.

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weddings ENGAGEMENT RINGS

PUT A RING ON IT

Whether your ideal piece of finger candy is a simple solitaire or a colourful showstopper, Selections chooses some of

the most desirable engagement rings and wedding bands from our favourite jewellers

ClOCkwIsE stARtInG fROM thE tOp: fleurette yellow gold and diamond ring by van cleef & arpelS ; eStelle wedding band in platinum and diamondS by van cleef & arpelS; rhodolite inlaid into

pink quartz ring by bogh-art; Solitaire ringS (three) in white or pink gold with white diamondS around a heart, cuShion or round-cut diamond; griffe diamanti emerald cut Solitaire by bulgari;

marry me wedding bandS (two) in platinum with pav diamondS by bulgari; aveu white gold, diamondS and Sapphire ring by dior; aSScher cut diamond Solitaire ring in white gold by van cleef &

arpelS; perl diamond Solitaire ring in pink gold by van cleef & arpelS; diamond Solitaire ring in white gold with pear-Shaped diamondS by yvan tufekJian; my dior white gold and diamond ring by

dior; dedicata a venezia round-cut diamond Solitaire ring in platinum by bulgari; diamond inlaid into parabia ring by bogh-art; heart-Shaped brilliant diamond and platinum ring by chopard

a DREAM of a dress

That fairy tale wedding gown could be hiding in the next few pages...

W o r d s : A l i a F a w a z

hoosing a wedding dress, possibly one of the most treasured items a woman will ever own, is a one-off opportunity to merge sartorial

self-expression with traditions and expectations. The search for the right dress can be daunting for some but once the designer has been decided, it becomes a collaborative process as the dress is made to measure until it

becomes perfectly bespoke. Initial appointments with the atelier usually take place at least three months before the wedding, and ensuing discussions and fittings become a collaborative creative process as each designer crafts his or her particular vision around your individual form an important personal touch that lies at the heart of the art of couture. Here we look at some of the supremely beautiful gowns that have been crafted for this season with Spring Summer brides for 2014 in mind.

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weddings DRESS DESIGNERS

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eLie Saab

As the most internationally renowned Lebanese fashion designer, the name Elie Saab has become synonymous with a feminine, fairy-tale-style glamour. In 2003 the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture invited him to become a member, and he has been showing in Paris ever since. Today, Saabs impressive fashion empire also includes ready-to-wear, accessories and perfume. He has become the go-to name for a show-stopping bridal gown that is both traditional and highly fashionable.

For this seasons Haute Couture collection the designer found inspiration in the work of the 19th century Dutch painter Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, who was known for his flowers and textures. Saab presented glorious empire-line dresses and chiffon-draped princess gowns in a gorgeous colour palette of floral tones. There were even a few surprises like the Victorian-style long dresses in delightful ombr colours and striking flower prints, mixed up among his signature looks decorated in monochrome embroideries and exquisite appliqu work.

Fortunately this couture collection also injected plenty of dazzling creations that could easily be adapted as wedding gowns such as the glorious off-white Grecian style robes and exquisite lacey dresses with delicate sheer panels. But in keeping with the tradition of the Haute Couture catwalk, the best was saved for last with his show-stopping princess bride, a hit with the critics worldwide. An delicate vision in a splendid soft beige bustle-hipped embroidered dress swayed down the runway, inspiring brides for the season to come. The dramatic gown and veil shimmers like a garden strewn with small flowers reflecting the light. This utterly romantic and elaborate imperial-style gown from epitomizes the elegant eye and sartorial excellence that keeps Saab at the top .The shape is flattering for all figures, especially if you prefer to accentuate from waist upwards, with below featuring a grand flared silhouette reminiscent of historic European royalty and is incredibly dramatic when seen in motion.

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georgeS chaKra

Veteran couture designer Georges Chakra has been creating sublime evening wear since the mid-Eighties, but his work really reached critical acclaim over the past ten years. Chakras work was featured in the popular fashion film The Devil Wears Prada, starring Meryl Streep as Anna Wintour, and today his highly-coveted gowns are regularly spotted at awards ceremonies such as the Oscars.

Seductive and feminine silhouettes that mix contrasting colours and geometric designs have come to define his stunning ready-to-wear and Haute Couture lines. Originally trained as an interior designer, Chakras eye for detail and diversity in each collection is what characterises his style.

While every collection he produces is a precious labour of love, Chakra Bridal is perhaps the ultimate place to find luxury tailoring for women. Each fabulously crafted dress is treated as a unique piece that will never be duplicated. While a bridal line is not pre-created as a collection, clients can have a one-of-a-kind dress made to measure at the atelier, often working from the designers sketch as a starting point or building on some of the themes explored in the Haute Couture collection, more specifically the final wedding look.

The jewel in the crown of his most recent show, this seasons bridal gown is an ultra-light construction of astounding beauty and ethereal femininity. Its regal ballgown silhouette is immersed in a frothy train designed for making the grandest of romantic entrances. The dress has an iridescent finish in a mix of white and baby pink and is swathed in tulle with the most delicately stitched shimmering beadwork which the studio tells Selections took 3,500 hours of handwork at the atelier. This painstaking work of artistry represents the true craftsmanship that continues to be offered by Haute Couture which is rarely heard of in mainstream fashion today.

weddings

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LanVin

This revered fashion house, founded by Jeanne Lanvin in the 1920s, is one the oldest still operating today. When its founder passed away in 1946, the brand lost its prominence and a series of different ownerships followed. The fate of Lanvin has shifted dramatically since 2001 however, when a private investor group took hold of the company and put in place its genius creative director Albert Elbaz.

Under the artistic leadership of Elbaz the brand has become both the embodiment of Parisian ladylike chic and simultaneously ultra-cool. Credited with picking up the threads of Mme Lanvins rich legacy in a sensitive and contemporary way, Elbaz continues to wow the fashion world with his Grecian draping, kooky bows, meticulous tailoring and lavish embroidery, all to be found among mounds of flirty tulle and fine silks. Today the house of Lanvin has expanded far beyond womens ready-to-wear to include a strong accessories range, menswear, childrenswear, perfumes and the dreamy Blanche bridal collection.

The Blanche collection is perfect for the independent-minded bride who wants a pretty look that is nevertheless edgy and free-spirited. The complete bridal line boasts many diverse looks however, and does include one or two more traditional gowns with flared skirts and wow-factor bow details. Seen here, the Techno Duchess Satin Dress, in light grey, has a touch of rock n roll attitude that can be beautifully accentuated with a short statement necklace or tiara. Those who prefer a more modest look for the ceremony can go for the lines straight dress with pleats, which has a regal Grecian Goddess feel to it, or else the Ecru Tafetta Dress proposes a girly, flirty feel with its ivory-coloured pleated taffeta deployed in three big ruffled layers. With 15 different dresses, the Lanvin Blanche collection beautifully captures different moods to suite a light-hearted bride with an eye for contemporary fashion.


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Zuhair MuraD

A favourite with the red carpet elite, Murad is known for his figure-hugging silhouettes and transparencies that have come to define his signature cocktail and eveningwear dresses. For his new Haute Couture line, Murad departed from his usual sheer fabrics and delved into heavy embellishment in the form of florals. A garden strewn with shimmering petals was dreamily translated onto delightful pieces mixed with delicate embroideries and feathers. He offered plenty of elegant flowing gowns, complex voluminous dresses, and more relaxed two piece ensembles accented with striking gold leaf motif belts.

Some of the intricate floral references are echoed in his latest Bridal offering which is gorgeously crafted with splendid details. Princess-style gowns in intricate lace, subtle sequins and dreamy tulle can be found throughout, and while the mood is romantic and timeless there is a modern edge to this collection that allows for a versatility which is not often seen in bridal lines. The gorgeous strapless Faun gown with shimmering floral details comes with a full tulle skirt which can be altered into a chic mini version an option that can seamlessly take the bride from the ceremony right to the after party. The splendid long-sleeved lace Diana gown comes with a wide overskirt that can be taken off for a more paired-down narrow style.

Murads designs offer flattering cuts with a wide range of silhouettes suited to different body shapes, ranging from the romantic tiered ball gowns like the Alexia, to more fitted skirts and shapes at the neck that place subtle emphasis on the dcollet. In short, a Zuhair Murad gown is sophisticated and glamorous.

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georgeS hobeiKa

Georges Hobeikas sumptuous pieces capture the feminine grace and intricate embellishments that the Lebanese couturiers have become renowned for. He nevertheless manages to inject a slight edge and youthfulness that somehow sets him apart from his compatriots. For starters, his collection is usually limited to 35 looks, unlike other designers who may present twice that much in one fashion show. This means that each of his gorgeous frocks in any single collection is different from all the others on show.

His latest Spring Summer 2014 Haute Couture line is an enchanting offering of pastel colours and soft silhouettes with botanical references. Hobeika offers a variety of looks in crepe georgette and organza, with sequins and pearls delicately added here and there. Aside from the elegant maxi dresses, there are stunning fitted jackets with cinched waists and column skirts and more relaxed knee-length tulle skirts paired with youthful cropped tops.

Hobeikas Bridal collection is equally mesmerizing if not more so. At the recent show he offered a glimpse with his Bridal finale which appeared otherworldly with its beauty. The exquisite dress, in an off-white crepe georgette, is all about fine detail. The dress is fully embroidered with a delicate lace, pearl and crystal design of immaculately strewn stems and leaves. While it appears as a strapless dress, an illusory sheer tulle actually covers the shoulders and sleeves, sprinkled with Swarovski crystals that sparkle like miniature snowflakes. In place of the traditional veil, the bride wears an intricate flower headband to resemble a graceful ballerina.

Hobeikas dresses are true statement gowns, in this case shown by the lavish tulle princess train that flows out from the hips. His pieces are perfect for brides who want to inject drama and romance intro their look for the day.

caroLina herrera

Before embarking on a career in fashion, Carolina Herrera lived the life of a well-known beauty and socialite thanks to her Venezuelan aristocratic roots. Top-notch New York artists Robert Mapplethorpe and Andy Warhol have taken her portrait and she has kept the company of numerous notable names, including the legendary editor of American Vogue, Diana Vreeland. With such an impressive pedigree a great sense of style was Herreras cultural heritage, and she began to design in 1981 with a collection of couture-style dresses, soon followed by her famous bridal-wear, ready-to-wear and accessories.

For her Spring Summer 2014 ready-to-wear collection she was inspired by the work of Venezuelan artists Carlos Cruz-Diez and Jess Rafael Soto specifically by their work from the fifties and sixties and she translated their style into geometrical prints and dresses with sheer organza overlays. There was lots of veiling and layering, most strikingly with pleats in a sophisticated colour palette of dark green, plum, orange, black and ivory.

Her Bridal line for this season however takes a more classic turn with her models demurely clutching a bouquet during the presentation. The collection explores the romance and femininity of lace in many different ways, from intricate Chantilly lace appliqu to dresses in hand-painted lace motif on silk organza. The silhouettes are mostly floor-sweeping sheaths with modest necklines. A flowing plunging neckline dress and a playful faux fur cape perhaps for later in the evening, when making a dashing exit - add bursts of novelty to this elegant collection. Herreras all-white gowns propose many fantastic shapes for every female shape, and the real beauty of her work is the variety through which she offers something for pretty many different styles, ages and personalities.


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weddings

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Catwalk SUGGESTIONS

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weddings DESTINATION WEDDINGS

our ancestors would have been horrified at the prospect of being pronounced man and wife while wearing flip-flops on a beach, yet destination weddings are the latest craze to sweep brides-to-be off their sand-covered feet.

Defined as marrying at least 100 miles from where the bride currently lives, most destination weddings take place in a tropical climate that promises perfect weather, white sand beaches, and breathtaking sunsets. Often a more intimate affair with fewer guests, they range from being a minimum of three

days up to becoming holidays in their own right as the newlyweds organize group activities, sightseeing tours, and elaborate dinners for all in attendance.

In 2011, almost one in four American couples had a destination wedding, reflecting a rising popularity worldwide that chimes with the increasingly nomadic and internationalised existence of modern-day couples. With many young people migrating away from their hometowns for work opportunities and choosing spouses from different regions and countries, a ceremony in your hometown doesnt necessarily make sense anymore. Carley Roney, cofounder of XO Group Inc.,


Destination weddings mean leaving your acquaintances behind and tying the knot with only close family and friends just one reason why they are now more popular than ever

a media and technology company that provides advice on weddings, explains that, When family is spread all over the country and, increasingly, the globe, a destination wedding is the perfect way to bring everyone together.

But perhaps it sounds too good to be true and it can be. With every postcard-perfect destination wedding, there comes a myriad of tricky social situations and thorny etiquette questions that can bewilder soon-to-weds as they try to navigate their way to the altar. Many feel guilty about hosting a celebration far away from their friends and family and for

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forcing attendees to fork out considerable sums for airfare and accommodation. When you throw in the nightmare of organizing a wedding thousands of miles from your home, with all the potential linguistic and cultural barriers that come along with that, and a destination wedding can seem like an overwhelming proposition after the initial proposal.

One recently married bride and groom who organized extravagant nuptials in France, because it was a country that meant something to them as a couple, experienced numerous highs and lows leading up to the ceremony as

they battled against government officials who were reluctant to grant tourist visas to their guests and their friends fretted about finding enough hotel rooms in the sleepy French village they had chosen. As the groom explains, On the wedding day itself I was still fielding phone calls from guests who were asking for help with their future sightseeing plans. But, he adds with a smile, it was an, Unforgettable weekend.

So is the experience of saying Yes to your other half going to feel better on a beach? The galloping pace of contemporary life can make a sun-

soaked beach wedding seem like a mellow alternative to all those more traditional celebrations taking place back home. And with the growing support of wedding planners sourced at home or in the destination, arranging the dream wedding in an exotic location is becoming increasingly easy for newlyweds with a case of wanderlust. The best destination weddings arent just about choosing flashy locations but happen somewhere that mean something in personal to the couples own romantic story be that in the mountains or meadows, on sea shores or desert sands.

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weddings BENJAMIN FOURNIER INTERVIEW

B enjamin Fournier is a man who knows his own mind. Fifteen years ago he convinced the Paris florist Au Nom de la Rose to take him on despite him having no experience, while today he persuades his bridal clients to follow his advice and leave the creativity up to him. Smart brides are advised to do just that, as his exquisite taste is both contemporary and romantic, with a fresh eye and light-handed flourish.

As someone who has always loved to live and work with nature, the signature of his bouquets is their unforced style and natural beauty.

Although Fournier knew nothing of flower arranging when he began at Au Nom de la Rose, he became store manager after six months and then took charge of the brands leading branch on the Left Bank, in the 7th arrondissement, home to Saint Germain, before taking over the Paris flagship store. One year later he decamped to Beirut to establish Au Nom de la Rose in the Lebanese capital. The store was a success for ten years but the Frenchmans independent creative drive pushed him to open his own-brand boutique Infloressence in September. Located on the chi-chi Rue Selim Bustros, in St. Nicolas, Achrafieh, the beautifully arranged little shop specialises in easy-going bouquet designs and niche perfumes sourced from Paris.

When establishing his own identity in floral styling for Beirut, Fournier was determined to move away from the fashion for showy, over-the-top arrangements. Infloressence is a place where the flowers can express their beauties. I want to show the flowers as they are with no artifice, glitter, or balloons or ugly teddy bears, he says, explaining his naturalistic approach. This makes him the perfect choice for

the cool contemporary woman who wants stylish details for her home or her events, without going overboard or giving a formal look. What we do is more country style. We dont make tight, false-looking bouquets, and we think about where the flowers come from, so for example we dont mix garden flowers with tropical flowers, like roses would never be put together with orchids.

For weddings, the Infloressence

Parisian florist in Beirut Benjamin Fournier believes floral design should be about letting

flowers express their inherent beauty so we

might remember the gardens of our youth

w o r d s : K a s i a M a c i e j o w s k a

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approach is to tap in to the mood of the location. Referencing the setting through the colours, atmosphere and existing flora and fauna, Fournier comes up with appropriate combinations of flowers that enhance the environment around them in a harmonious way. When Im working with a bride or her wedding designer we talk about the scene, the colours, the ideas we could play with. The truth is that a successful

wedding is not very difficult; you simply need to look at the area and get into the spirit of the place.

Keen to uphold his own vision, Fournier is someone with clear views on what works and what doesnt which he keeps in mind when a bride approaches him. The way I do weddings is simple. I meet the client and I feel out whether we can work together. If they trust me then we go ahead. The

most important thing is to be able to say no when the client makes bad suggestions. A bride is asking for your help and sometimes the best help you can give is to tell the truth and say, No, if you do that it will not be beautiful, lets do it this way. Too many florists are afraid to say no and the result is lots of bad taste copy-and-paste weddings. A wedding is a day for personal expression so you have to make it unique.

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weddings BULGARI BRIDAL JEWELLERY

THE SERPENT AND THE CROWN

w o r d s : n o u r h a r b

The bridal jewellery from Bulgari is painstakingly handmade and quality controlled to render

every piece an exquisite example of Italian craftsmanship

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n a bid to focus on the inherent beauty of each individual diamond, the jewellers at Bulgari design their rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings that make up the brands bridal range around the glittering stones themselves. For the rings, settings

range from classic to innovative and pretty to modern, as do the cuts that shape and facet the stones. The Dedicated to Venice series of rings echoes the feminine lacework that is historically produced in the city, while the Corona ring is even more florid and decorative, reminiscent of a romantic crown, as the name suggests, and inspired by brides from Ancient Rome who wore a crown of flowers atop a bright orange veil. In contrast, the Marry Me and Lucea designs have a more

i masculine, Art Deco look about them, to give the bride-to-be a more modern look. For the wedding day itself, the incredibly ornate necklaces are the standout choices. Ranging from Bulgaris take on the slinky serpent, whose symbolism ranges from passion and fertility to everlasting energy and rebirth, depending which culture you are from, to the more traditional-looking collars in which pretty diamonds are set like snowflakes and droplets. For earrings, the house proposes tumbling cascades of contemporary-looking flowers and diamond-dotted rows of hoops. The Elisia set is their modern and classic line built around elongated loops of variously-sized diamonds which hang around the collarbones and from the ears, and sit across the finger in a decorative ring to match.

ClOCkwIsE fROM tOp lEft : diamond

flower earringS, diva diamond

necklace, eliSia necklace, and eliSia

ring, by bulgari. facing page: Serpent

diamond necklace by bulgari

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weddings THE NEW HONEYMOONS

As newlyweds become more adventurous with their honeymoons,indolent beach holidays at all-inclusive resorts have been replaced with bespoke travel plans that include camping under the stars and a desire to tap into local culture

oneymoons: theyre the icing on the sparkling white wedding cake once the madness has settled and the relatives have been packed home again. But with so much pressure to

have an amazing wedding and an even more amazing honeymoon, how can newlyweds ensure that the honeymoon is as impressive as the wedding itself ?

It used to be easy. Honeymooners were expected to lounge on sandy beaches, drink champagne in gilded hotel suites,

and endure that awkward moment when the man with the castanets decides to serenade the two of you at a candlelit dinner. But a recent survey of 2,000 unmarried people by Kuoni, a luxury travel and tour operator in the UK, discovered that the perfect honeymoon now involves, Four days lying in the sun, temperatures of 27C, two books, four candlelit meals, three spa treatments together, and three adrenaline-fuelled activities. As expectations have evolved, hotels have tailored their services to include a wide range of culturally-authentic experiences in off-beat settings that seek to satisfy even the most spoilt travelers.

Shunning the bland anonymity of sprawling five-star resorts, many newlyweds are now embracing glamping (glamorous camping) as the most stylish way to combine the luxurious amenities of the worlds finest hotels with the intimacy of a secluded campsite on the remote edges of the earth. San Camp, an elegant, white-tented safari camp perched on the breathtakingly minimalist Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in Botswana, offers couples the chance to stay in a solar-powered, environmentally friendly camp that includes a dining tent and a tented yoga pavilion. By day,

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guests can venture in to the Kalahari Desert to track habituated meerkats or discover remote archaeological sites; by night, they are treated to spectacular night skies.

Its not just glamping thats got honeymooners excited. Far-flung destinations that promise culturally profound travel tales are luring couples to underexplored corners of the globe. Endemico, a luxury eco-hotel perched on a remote hillside overlooking the Valle de Guadalupe in northwestern Mexico, puts the emphasis on extravagance within an authentic

setting. Designed to highlight the isolation of the spectacular desert that stretches out beneath the 20 luxury cabins, guests can visit the adjoining winery, arrange hikes, soak up the blend of Mexican culture and artisanal activity, or simply relax in the panoramic swimming pool. This is lean luxury at its very best, drawing upon local culture and the indigenous landscape to create an unforgettable experience and the most epic Instagram opportunities because nothing gets more Likes than a photo of a happy couple at their wedding or on honeymoon.

As hotels and travel operators become more hip to what people want now, unusual destination choices are closer within reach. Its little wonder that honeymooners are becoming more selective in their travel arrangements as they seek new thrills in their first months of married life. At some point down the long matrimonial road, the generic luxury of an all-inclusive resort may sound appealing but todays most stylish newlyweds are determined to replace corporate with culture and glitz with glamping.

fROM lEft tO RIGht : San camp, makgadikgadi panS nat, botSwana; hotel

caSa real, Santiago, chile; San camp, makgadikgadi panS nat, botSwana;

endemico, valle de guadalupe, mexico. copyright: taSchen, from 100

GetawayS around the world , by margit J. mayer, from taSchen.

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world

nEws

{ skyCyCLE for London } world-leading architecture firm foster & partners has drawn up plans to build a network of elevated cycle highways over london, allowing the capitals cyclists to avoid the traffic and enjoy a birds eye view of the metropolis. the blueprints - which are backed by the organisation transport for london but still far from finalised - show how the cycle paths will be built on the top of the overground train network. the project includes 220km of car-free routes and around 200 entrance points. it has the capacity to accommodate an incredible 120,000 cyclists per hour. the dream for the future is that you can wake up in paris, cycle to gard du nord, hop on the eurostar, hop off at Stratford in east london, and cycle into central london without your bike ever having to leave your side.

{ antarCtiCas Lost LandsCapEs }art photographer diane tuft has released a book of photography revealing the intricate ecology and frozen textures of the wastelands of antarctica. as well as capturing the raw power and mystery of this inaccessible continent, gondwana: images of an ancient land also documents how infrared and ultra-violet radiation has affected its barren landscapes. her scientific lens reaches deep into the ice to picture ancient frozen microbes that lived 25 million years ago, when antarctica was farther north and still part of the larger landmass called gondwana. instead of pages of snow and ice, the close-focus of much of tufts photography creates a varied colour palette, which - as the tagline of the book suggests - reveals the invisible within the visible.

{ gLow in thE dark pLant } we all know the frustration of searching in the dark for a replacement light-bulb if only there was a light that never goes out. well now there is! american biotech company bioglow have invented a glow-in-the-dark plant. it is a small, leafy, light-emitting organism that they hope will be the future of lighting design for personal and public use. the plant was developed by introducing dna from luminescent marine bacteria into the chloroplast of a common houseplant. So far, the plants can only be viewed in a darkened room but the company are engineering brighter strains which they believe will be popular as decorative way to mark driveways and routes, or as night-lights for children. as the technology develops biological lights could even replace street lamps, shop signs and other man-made urban light pollution.

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{ spaCE raCE 2014 }despite the uS having actively down-scaled its lunar operations over the past 40 years, 2014 is the 10-year anniversary of naSas activity on mars. in 2004, two rovers were dropped off on the red planet, one of which is still active and continues to send back precious scientific data and awe-inspiring photography as you have probably witnessed online. yet while the uS has neglected moon exploration in recent years, china is swelling with pride after its change 3 and yutu probes woke up from their month-long dormancy. the probes were forced to remain inactive during the long lunar night as their operations rely largely on solar power. now that theyre active once again china has been officially proclaimed the third country in the world to have successfully landed on the moon, after the uS and Soviet russia.

{ CannaBis LEgaLisEd in uruguay }uruguay has become the first country in the world where marijuana is legal and therefore actively regulated by the state. although not in effect until april 2014, the government remarkably passed a law in late december which has made growing, selling and using the drug fully legal. the pressure is now on to ensure that a good quality version of the crop is available and the price is right in order to create a balanced and regulated market that is safer than a black market. the government chose to legalise the drug partly to help users avoid contact with harder drugs such as cocaine, which marijuana dealers frequently sell. however, it remains a controlled substance and under the new system only residents of uruguay are allowed to purchase the plant from selected pharmacies, with a limit of 40 grams per month per person. this ground-breaking move from the country comes as the criminalisation of cannabis use is becoming perceived as more detrimental to society than using the drug itself.

{ doha mEtro for Qatar 2022 worLd Cup }amid the controversy over whether the qatar 2022 world cup will take place in winter - and if

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