Seville’s Fabulous Flamenco – Dance, Dance, Dance!

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Seville’sFabulousFlamenco– Dance,Dance,Dance!

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I had long heard about the amenco ofAndalusia(https://www.andalucia.org/en/ amenco), an enchanting regionon Spain’s southern coast that gave birth to this distinctive art

form. But it was not until I saw Farruquito(http://www.farruquito.com/),grandson of the legendary El Farruco, one of the greatest dancers in thehistory of amenco, that I truly experienced the visceral passion andexcitement this iconic performance art holds.

i

https://www.andalucia.org/en/flamenco

http://www.farruquito.com/



Farruquito -Seville’s Gypsy Flamenco Star Photo/Oscar Romero

It was 2003, Flamenco Festival New York at City Center and Farruquitowas just eighteen years old. He attracted a glamorous crowd of artistictypes, the fashionable and the chic. The moment Farruquito took thestage, swathed in black from his shoulder-length raven hair to his heeledboots, I was mesmerized – his brilliant footwork, dynamic ourishes andcommanding amboyance. I’d never seen anything like it. Seville’sfamous gypsy amenco star returned to New York this past March after13 years. I jumped at the chance to see him again. Farruquito’s rapturousperformance inspired me to visit the place where it all began.

Seville – Birthplace of Flamenco



Seville

I started my amenco crawl in Seville(http://www.tourspain.org/sevilla). Thecapital of Andalusia captivates the senses with its orange-tree linedstreets, tasty tapas and the sound of amenco. This colorful metropolissituated on the banks of the Guadalquivir River and drenched in sunlightmost of the year has a rich Moorish heritage. Here you’ll nd exquisitepalaces, Baroque facades and fun loving people.

http://www.tourspain.org/sevilla



All About The Dance – Flamenco Museum

My rst stop was the impressive FlamencoMuseum(http://www.andalucia.com/ amenco/seville amencomuseum.htm) where Ilearned about the unique art form that has been passed down throughfamily dynasties since originating in Andalusia nearly ve hundred yearsago. It is the purest form of expression of Andalusian folklore and wasdeclared an ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’ by Unesco. Manybelieve amenco to be the invention of the gypsies, and they have beenits leading practitioners.

http://www.andalucia.com/flamenco/sevilleflamencomuseum.htm



At The Flamenco Museum

Immersing myself in the wonderland of amenco, I became acquaintedwith the di erent styles, from heart wrenching seguiriyas to fun lledexuberant bulerías. A tour of the innovative museum includededucational exhibits, interactive screens and videos of the greatsperforming the di erent styles of the dance. A lm clip of master artistAntonio Gades gliding his feet like a matador performing an exalted tap-ballet left me spellbound.



At The Flamenco Museum

The guide explained that amenco is made up of four elements: song,dance, guitar, and the Jaleo, which means something akin to hell raisingand involves handclapping (an art in itself), foot stomping and shouts ofencouragement. He stressed that most importantly it is an expression ofthe soul and that the best Flamenco dancers possess a special gift ofchanneling the emotions.

Another component of amenco is ‘duende’. Poets and writers havegiven ‘duende’ an otherworldly, spiritual signi cance. If during aperformance you are catapulted from the depths of despair to ecstaticbliss, you have experienced ‘duende’ – one of the wonders of thismystical art.



The tour culminated with a live amenco show. Per my recent tutorial, Iobserved the singer and guitarist watch the dancer’s feet to cue theirtiming, which I never noticed before. Then I proceeded to book a dancelesson at the museum.

The Sights

Plaza Nueva



Seville Alcazar

Seville enchants with its cobblestone streets, picturesque squares andpalm-lined promenades. The Royal Alcázar Palace’s lush fountain lledgardens, courtyard of dolls and maids and sumptuous Hall ofAmbassadors evoke the stirring images of A Thousand and One Nights.Also stupendous is the massive Gothic Seville Cathedral with the world’sbiggest altarpiece and famed minaret turned belltower, the Giralda.



Seville Giralda

After taking in the sights I alighted at an outdoor café on lively Calle delas Sierpes, the main shopping street. As I lazily sipped a glass of wine, asexy female amenco dancer in a red and magenta dress suddenlyappeared with her guitar player and performed in the street to anadoring audience





Flamenco al Fresco

Flamenco Biennale

The Seville Flamenco Biennale(http://www.labienal.com/en/) was a highlight ofmy trip. This three -week festival in September attracts the mostillustrious musicians and dancers and is widely considered the mostimportant international event within the amenco world. A coveted seatis the hottest ticket in town. Many parallel shows, events and exhibits arealso scheduled in addition to the o cial program facilitating a veritableamenco feast.

http://www.labienal.com/en/



Farruquito at The Flamenco Biennale

With a stunning lineup of artists second to none, I found theperformance by acclaimed amenco dancer Antonio Molina especiallymoving. My emotions reached a fever pitch as ‘El Choro’ displayedrhythmic brilliance in the seductive dance accompanied by his esteemedensemble. As I shouted ‘ Ole, Ole ’ my entire body was overtaken by asensation of unbridled joy in much the same way as when I sawFarruquito. A taste of ‘duende’ ?

El Choro



Lodging

My Seville residence, the Hotel Inglaterra, ideally located in the heart ofthe historic quarter, faces leafy Plaza Nueva, the city’s picturesquecentral square. Rooms and suites with marble replaces are beautifullydecorated with plush furnishings and antiques. Head to the chic rooftopterrace for cocktails with spectacular Seville vistas.

Hotel Inglaterra

Lebrija

My next stop Lebrija(http://www.andalucia.com/province/sevilla/lebrija/home.htm),located south of the city of Seville, o ers panoramic views of thesurrounding vineyards. This quaint Andalusian town, is known for itsgypsy heritage and amenco. The Caracolá, one of the major amencofestivals in Spain, is held here every July.

http://www.andalucia.com/province/sevilla/lebrija/home.htm



Lebrija

An elder resident with deep, dark eyes and a big smile showed me herliving quarters: a house with adjoining structures shared by other familiesbuilt around a communal courtyard with a lemon tree. Flamenco wascreated many years ago in outdoor spaces just like this throughoutAndalusia. People returning from work in the vineyards relaxed in theevenings telling stories about their lives as they sang and danced aroundthe tree. Young children learned the art of amenco from their families,just as they do today.



El Popo, Benito Velasquez

I was eager to visit Pena Flamenca Pepe Montaraz, a amenco clubtucked away on one of the town’s cobbled streets. Here, dashing AntonioJesus Romero, ‘El Popo,’ delivered a strikingly, impassioned performance,both singing and dancing while Benito Velasquez played the guitar.Many amenco artists hail from Lebrija, the most famous Juan Peñaknown as El Lebrijano, is regarded as one of the greatest singers ever ofthis art form.

Arahal



Museum of Women In Flamenco

I continued on to Arahal(http://www.andalucia.com/province/sevilla/arahal.htm),just southeast of Seville. This jewel box of a town houses the Museum ofWomen in Flamenco dedicated to native daughter, renowned singerPastora Pavon, and the other legendary ladies of this fantastic art. Visualdisplays including dazzling photos and stunning out ts adorn this hightemple of fabulous amenco females along with compelling movies andaudio tapes of their gorgeous voices, dance movements and guitarvirtuosity. The celebrated Arahal Flamenco Festival which attracts topartists, takes place in this charming city every June.

http://www.andalucia.com/province/sevilla/arahal.htm



Iberico Ham

A lunch at lively Bodega la Mazaroca was a culinary feast with tapas andmouth watering slow roasted pork, prawns, shrimp and a knockoutseafood curry. The pièce de résistance turned out to be the amencogroup from the Pena Cultura Flamenca Pastora Pavon who performedduring the meal.



Prawns at Bodega la Mazaroca

I sat, enraptured by the soulful singing of lovely Rosario Munoz Casadoaccompanied by young, talented David Rodriguez on guitar, along withthe more seasoned Paco Esquivel and Pepe el de Los Cabales. After eachhauntingly beautiful song, the smiling locals clapped and shouted ‘ole’ asthey ate lunch and drank wine. I found myself shouting and clappingwith them on this typical day in Andalusia. This is the magic of amenco.



Rosario Munoz Casado, David Rodriguez, Paco Esquivel, Pepe el de LosCabales

For more information on travel to Spain visit the Spanish TouristO ce(http://www.spain.info) or the Andalucia TouristO ce(http://www.andalucia.org).

To organize your trip, contact consummate professional, Lola Peon:[email protected]

http://www.spain.info/

http://www.andalucia.org/

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Seville’s Fabulous Flamenco – Dance, Dance, Dance!