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STRATHCONA PARK TRAILS GUIDE
WILD ISLEWILD ISLEWILD ISLECanada’s West Coast Adventure MagazineCanada’s West Coast Adventure MagazineCanada’s West Coast Adventure Magazine
www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca
A CLIMBER’SA CLIMBER’SLIFELIFE
CAVING INCAVING INTHAILANDTHAILAND
IN THE WAKEIN THE WAKEOF CAPTAINOF CAPTAINVANCOUVERVANCOUVER
FREEFREE
SPEC
IAL
Hiking
Guide
Nootk
a Isla
nd
WINA pair of tickets
3 Chances to
to
see page 26for details
ISSUE #12AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 2000
ISSUE #12AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 2000
The Resort at Cape Mudge Quadra IslandThe Resort at Cape Mudge Quadra IslandThe Resort at Cape Mudge Quadra Island
Getaway .
tkl [email protected] . ca
1-800-665-7745
Tel: (250) 285-2042
Fax: (250) 285-2532
Only $119.95*
September 16 - 30, 2000 * based on quad occupancy
BEACHFRONT CABIN
2 BedroomJacuzzi BathtubGas FireplaceKitchenette
WithUs!
HIKENOOTKA ISLAND
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CONTENTS CONTENTSCONTENTS Cover:Curtis Lyon, South Ridge of
Victoria Peak.Photo: Philip Stone
Gabe Jutras, KwisatzHaderach 5.11d, Crest Creek
Photo: Josie Boulding
Contents:Surfer at Long Beach.Photo: Corrie Wright
BC Parks View Point p9Volunteering in Paradise
Linvin’ the Dream p10The life of theunsponsored climber
Strathcona Park p13An overview of the hikingtrails in BC’s oldest park
Thai Caves p17Islanders AbroadUnderground adventure in Thailand
Mt Colonel Foster p19Guide to Vancouver Island’salpine climbing mecca
Benighted on Mt Klitsa p21A lesson earned and alesson learned
In the Wake of Vancouver p22The explorations ofCpt Vancouver on BC’s west coast.
Happenings p26Coming events on the west coast
climbing, hiking, caving and kayaking clothing and equipment
Outfitting You For Island Adventure
Where ever your travels may take you
on the Island (or further afield)
stop in at
Where ever your travels may take you
on the Island (or further afield)
stop in at
Next to Starbucks, Discovery Harbour, Campbell River
(250) 287-4453
for personal service, quality equipment,
local knowledge and No Bullshit!
for personal service, quality equipment,
local knowledge and No Bullshit!
Courses & tours in Clayoquot Sound with Dan Lewis & Bonny Glambeck
1 - 8 7 7 - 4 2 2 - W I L Dwww.rainforestkayak.com
• CENTRE PULLOUT - NOOTKA ISLAND - HIKING GUIDE •
WINA pair of tickets
3 Chances to
to
see page 26for details
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Toll Free: 1 888 895 2011
Tatchu Adventures
Specializes in Boat Transport
to Parks on the west coast
of Vancouver Isl
Nootka sound,
Hesquiat Peninsula , and
Brooks Peninsula.
Tatchu Adventures
Specializes in Boat Transport
to Parks on the west coast
of Vancouver Isl
Nootka sound,
Hesquiat Peninsula , and
Brooks Peninsula.
Tatchu Adventures
Specializes in Boat Transport
to Parks on the west coast
of Vancouver Isl
Nootka sound,
Hesquiat Peninsula , and
Brooks Peninsula.
NOOTKA ISLAND SERVICENOOTKA ISLAND SERVICE
TatchuTatchu
Adventures
Inc.A
dventures
Inc.
WILD ISLEWILDISLEWILD ISLE
is brought to you by participating
advertisers.Next time you make a
purchase or visit be sure to let them know you
saw their ad in Wild Isle.
Publisher/Managing EditorPhilip Stone
Associate Publisher/AdvertisingJim Martin
Art DirectorSheahan Wilson
Associate EditorsTanya Storr, Greg Shea
Feature ContributorsAndy Smith, Scott Kennedy,Philip Stone, Alex Baechler,
Peter Rothermel, Gregory Ross
PhotographyCorrie Wright, Josie Boulding,Alex Baecheler, Philip Stone
Museum at Campbell River Collection
Wild Isle is published 5 times a year byHyacinthe Bay Publishingand is distributed free of charge.
Advertising Inquiries and SubmissionsWild Isle MagazinePO Box 482, Heriot Bay, BC V0P 1H0Tel: 250 285-2234Fax: 250 285-2236email: [email protected] site: www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca
Opinions expressed herein are those of thewriters and in no way reflect the views ofthe publishers, editorial staff or distributors.
The sports featured in Wild Isle areinherently dangerous with real risk ofinjury or death. In no way should thismagazine be taken to advocateparticipation in any activity whatsoever.Wild Isle is for reading enjoyment only. Ifyou choose to engage in any activity youdo so entirely at your own risk.
Printed on Quadra Island, B.C. CanadaISSN 1480-4026All rights reserved. Copyright 2000
Issue 12 - Aug-Sept, 2000
Next IssueOctober-December, 2000
West Coast Lift AreasWhitewater Roundup
WILD ISLEWILD ISLEWILD ISLE
Deadline for editorial andadvertising = 1st September, 2000www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca/advertising
This is it, summer.High point of theyear, vacations,
great weather, bustlingtourism business and timefor adventure. Suitably,we’ve a packed issue, our
EDITORIALEDITORIALhave pictures if you like” is “why didn’tyou send them already!”
3) Be sure your article is submittedto our specifications. Either visit our website or pick up the phone and give us aquick call.
There are other ways you can helpsupport Wild Isle if you enjoy themagazine and would like to putsomething back. I’ve said it before but itbears repeating. Frequent our advertisersand tell them you saw their ad. This isvery important. The advertisers part withgood money for a service they believe isa sound investment. The only way theycan be sure it works is if you tell themso.
Secondly, buy a subscription. It’scheap, $16 for a year and it helps us paythe bills, keeps the presses rolling andbringing you the information, news andstories you want to read.
This issue, as an incentive, we areoffering three chances to win a pair oftickets to EagleFest 2000 at Mt.Washington with your subscriptionorder. The time frame to enter is tight,the event is August 26, so as soon as youread this, grab pen and chequebook andfill out the entry on page 26 and get it inthe mail right away.
Enjoy the issue, enjoy the summer!Philip Stone
biggest yet. Excellent stories from asnearby as the waters surrounding QuadraIsland and from as far afield as caves inThailand line these pages. I’m ecstatic tosay this issue we were close tooverwhelmed with material which isswelling our stockpile for futures issues.
Having said that there is a noticeablegap in the content of our submissions.That is contributions from women. Can’tbe because of a lack of adventure to tellabout. So how about it? Let’s here fromyou.
There’s more to be said aboutsubmissions. Wild Isle is all about ourreader’s stories and news and weappreciate the chance to tell your tales.You can help us a great deal in preparinga story in a number of ways.
1) Whenever possible submit storiesin a word processing file by floppy diskor email. Faxes and other paper copiesneed retyping and frankly we just don’thave that much time to spare.
2) Always send pictures. If you haveslides, prints or jpegs get them to us. Theresponse to the frequent statement “I
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Outdoor Adventures in Historic Nootka SoundOutdoor Adventures in Historic Nootka SoundOutdoor Adventures in Historic Nootka SoundTHIS WORLD RENOWNED LODGE HAS IT ALL
2 NIGHTS, 3 DAYSSalmon Fishing Packages $999Guided Kayak Tour $679Guided Zodiac Tour $679
ALL PACKAGES INCLUDERound Trip Air Fare from Gold River, BC Room, Meals, Guide and all the equipment needed for your adventure
Phone: Oct. to April (250) 752-0455email: [email protected]
www.nootkaisland.com
Have your own boat or kayak?Nootka offers
Room & Meal Packages
FROM THE FIELDFROM THE FIELD
World Class Eco-Adventure Tours!
The Kingfisher Resort would like towelcome everyone of all ages, to
experience "NEW" Zodiac Eco AdventureWildlife Tours in the heart of the beautifulPacific Northwest!
"Bon Voyage" exclaims Mandy Elvy, asshe waves goodbye from the dock, to thirteenadventure seekers from the Kingfisher Resort.Off on a half day journey, participants willbe visiting five local islands; Sandy (Tree),Hornby, Denman, Chrome and Flora. Spyingon curious harbor seals, singing a baritonelove song with sea lions, saluting Eagles andsoaring with seabirds. Opportunities nevercease, while admiring the historical NativePetroglyphs on one of the last mannedlighthouses on the coast or trekking throughHelliwell Provincial Park.
The Kingfisher also offers full day EcoAdventure Tours through the protected insidecoast. You will experience some of the fastesttidal rapids in the world near Stuart Island,fill a glass with fresh, cool water from majesticwaterfalls in Bute Inlet and walk to oldgrowth trees 64 feet in diameter at BlindChannel. A gourmet picnic lunch, completewith refreshments and dessert are also on themenu of adventure.
Journey with 15 years of experience,beside "Captain John" aboard the 25 footinflatable Zodiac. Half day tours depart theKingfisher every Thursday, Saturday andSunday. Full day tours departing everyMonday and Tuesday. Dates and times areflexible upon availability.
For further information or reservationscall (250) 703-2555 or toll free 1-800-663-7929 www.kingfisher-resort-spa.com
Eco-Adventure & Wildlife Zodiac Toursat the Kingfisher Oceanside Resort & Spa.
Outdoor Leadership from an Aboriginal Perspective
Cluxewe ResortAfter a period of re-organization,
Northern Vancouver Island’s mostscenic “for pay” campground is definitely inbusiness. Located at the mouth of theCluxewe River, the Cluxewe Resort (formerlyknown as the Broughton Strait Resort) seeksto broaden its customer base.
“Many of our guests come here for thescenery and the relaxation. There is an almostmystical quality about the place where theriver and the sea meet. I don’t know ofanother campground in the area that is so wellplaced and where there is such a variety ofenvironments in one location” says the newmanager, Mary Murphy.
Visitors can camp along or near theocean, the river, or the estuary. There aresmall, private campsites and large, open ones- sunny sites and shady ones. On the oppositebank of the Cluxewe is a Nature’s Trustwildlife preserve.
“The opportunity to see animals in anatural state is one reason why people comehere.,” says Murphy. “We try to be verywildlife friendly and encourage our guests tobe ‘bear aware.’” Murphy and the KwakiutlFirst Nation (which owns the resort) wantto expand the facility’s adventure tourismclientele. “This is a great place to be basedfor explorations of our region. Kayakers canlaunch either in the ocean or the estuary, pluswe can arrange for rentals and deliverythrough North Island Kayaks, just down theroad in Port Hardy.”
Despite the sense of remoteness andseclusion, Cluxewe Resort is only 15 minutesfrom Port McNeill and its services. Travelersgoing to - or from - the Prince Rupert andDiscovery Coast ferries find it a convenientstopping off place - but Cluxewe is definitelymore than just an overnight stay. It’s anexperience in itself.
Cluxewe Resort’s new telephonenumber is (250) 949-0378. Its web pagecan be found at www.island.net/~cluxewee-mail address is [email protected].
submitted by Walter Miller
No where else in North America isthere a school quite like this one!
Located in the remote, northwest corner ofClayoquot Sound, in the wilderness setting ofHesquiat Harbour, Hooksum Outdoor School is thefirst aboriginally developed outdoor/environmentaleducation school on Canada’s west coast.
Hooksum Outdoor School is offering itsunique West Coast Outdoor leadership Trainingfrom Oct 11th to Nov 7th 2000. Based uponindigenous values of respect for and connectionto the natural environment, Hooksum OutdoorSchool specializes in experiaential and practicaleducation. The intensive 28 day trainingincludes: certification in wilderness first aid andlifesaving, 7 days of intensive sea kayaking,remote surfing and surf guiding, backpacking/coastal hiking, lessons in natural and culturalhistory, environmental education, outdoor
leadership, a guiding practicum, and - mostimportantly - the opportunity to reconnectoneself to the natural world.
The owner/operators of HooksumOutdoor School are Steve and Karen Charlesonof Hot Springs Cove. Members of the HesquiahtFirst Nation, Steve and Karen have years ofexperience in developing and implementingindigenous-based outdoor and environmentaleducation initiatives. For the Fall session of theTraining, the Charlesons have assembled aworld-class staff and a schedule to stimulate andchallenge anyone interested in the Pacificcoastal environment or honing their outdoorleadership skills.
Hooksum Outdoor School is found atwww.surf.tofino.net. Information andapplication forms are available from KarenCharleson at 250-670-1120.
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250 285-2234www.island.net/~alpine
CUSTOM & STOCK PHOTOGRAPHY
Outdoor Adventure & West Coast Scenics a Specialty
Alpine Pacificimages & design
The Regional Ski Park, ownedby the Regional District of
Alberni-Clayoquot (RDAC), has runinto difficulties. After opening foronly three days this past winterseason, just before New Year's, theyclosed permanently. The investors,Step Financial Group, pulled theirsupport. Their reasoning, in a letterto the RDAC, "it is clear that theoperation of Mt. Arrowsmith isimpractical without a gondolaconnection to “Lockwood Village”the proposed "alpine" village on Mt.Cokely's lower northeast slopes. TheNanaimo RDN Regional GrowthManagement Plan (which Cokely isin) stipulates no permanentresidences in the area. It seems noneof these developers or investors haddone their homework. Further, whilea small ski operation like Mt. Cainmight be compatible within the area,some maintain a large Washington-type operation will never work, if forno other reason than theArrowsmith massif lacks the qualityand quantity of snow needed.According to the Ministry ofEnvironment snow surveys, oneyear in five will have a metre or lessin snow base.
According to the contract betweenthe RDAC and the ski hill developers,the hill has to be open for a minimumof ten days by the end of May.Therefore the developers are inbreech of contract now and onewould hope the RDAC will rewritethe contract into one that retainsmore control for the RDAC and thegeneral public.
On a brighter note, the proposedpark status for the rest of the massifis going well. The ArrowsmithMassif Advisory Committee(AMAC) has drafted a regional parkmanagement plan to "provide for the
Mt. Arrowsmith-the saga continues-
151 Dogwood St Campbell River
Simply the best
biking gear around
286-6340
stewardship of park land and trailsystems for the protection,appreciation and enjoyment ofregionally significant landscapes andnatural features." This draft plan hasbeen approved by the RDN board ofdirectors. Our committee have alsohad meetings with Weyerhaeuserand Timber West concerning theHistoric Arrowsmith Trail and bothcompanies have agreed to lease aportion of their lands to protect thetrail. TW has also committed tohelping volunteers replace the bridgeover McBey Creek. In our meetingswith BC Assets and LandCorporation (BCALC) and theMinistry of Forests (MF), they favoura phased in approach towards parkstatus. A special thanks goes to JeffAinge, RDN Parks Coordinator, forcompiling the committee member'sinformation into an excellentmanagement plan.
Our next step will be getting thetrails and routes officially recognizedby BCALC and MF. This is whereyou the reader can help. We'relooking for volunteers to help withtrail maintenance and erosioncontrol. Maybe you or your club orgroup would like to commit to a dayor two. If you wish to help, pleasecontact me: Peter Rothermel byphone or fax at 752-8792. TheAlpine Club of Canada has scheduleda two day affair (Aug.12-13) to doerosion control on the "Saddle" routeand the "Bumps" with a climb upthe "Nose" to the summit on daytwo.
Lastly the Federation of MountainClubs of BC have decided to increasethe amount of their Island directorsfrom one to three. I have been askedto represent the mid-island and I'mlooking for input.
Submitted by: Peter Rothermel
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O n Saturday the 15th, runningthrough Sunday the 16th, the
BCSA held the Quiksilver Roxy Summer SurfJam 2000, the first Pro-Am surf competitionever to be held in Canada. The event was heldat Cox Bay, Tofino BC, with conditionsleaving much to be desired. The waves wereabout three to five feet, and in the afternoonthe onshore winds picked up making thewaves almost impossible to surf. Starting out,was the main round in the men's open with65 competitors.
Next up was the main round of thewomen’s open. All of the competitors foughthard in the main round, but unfortunatelyhalf of them were eliminated. Next came thesecond round for both the men's, andwomen’s open, followed by the Quarterfinals. By this time, the wave conditions haddissipated to three foot slop.
Next came the semifinals, one of themost exciting heats in the contest. Some ofthe best surfers were knocked out in thisround, leaving only the best surfers in theFinal. The Final in the Men's Open consistedof Peter Devries, Raph Bruhwiler, SeppBruhwiler, and Phil Loader. The waves at thistime had turned into complete slop, almostun-surfabale, but the competitors made it looklike they were perfect. The raining champ,Raph Bruhwiler put out a great show, butcame up a little short losing to Peter Devries,the junior Champion from the WorldQualifier 2000. Sepp Bruhwiler was also ahuge contender, came up a little short of hispotential, coming in third place. In fourthplace was Phil Loader, who many thought hadwon the final.
Next was the Women’s Open final,which consisted of Leah Oke, Jenny Hudnall,and Catherine Bruhwiler. Most would havethought the raining champ Leah Oke wouldhave won, but it was Jenny Hudnall who took
Quiksilver RoxySummer Surf Jam
Men's Final:1.Peter Devries2.Raph Bruwhiler3.Sepp Bruwhiler4.Phil Loader
Women's Final:1.Jenny Hudnall2.Catherine Bruwhiler3.Leah Oke
Longboard Final:1.Mike Stupka2.Mike Redpath3.tied - Alex McWilliams/Ollie Atkey
-write-up by Nick Killins-submitted by Cam ScottVisit the British Columbia SurfingAssociation website: www.island.net/~bcsa
Sunny weather with marine fog. Small swell, light winds, largecrowd, good vibe. Competitors from Canada/France/
Austrailia/USA competing for $10,000.00 in prizes and cash.
COMOX VALLEY KAYAKSCOMOX VALLEY KAYAKS
THREE LOCATIONS TO SERVE YOUCOURTENAY, CAMPBELL RIVER, QUADRA ISLAND
Vancouver Island'sKayak Centre
SALES - RENTALS COURSES • ACCESSORIES
TRIP PLANNING
phone: 1-888-545-5595e-mail: [email protected]/~seakayak
phone: 1-888-545-5595e-mail: [email protected]/~seakayak
Peter Devries 1st place/mens- team canada member in BrazilPhoto: Cam Scott
Raph Bruhwiler 2nd place/mens- team canada member in BrazilPhoto: Cam Scott
Eric Hansen - team Canada member in BrazilPhoto: Cam Scott
the gold, and Catherine Bruhwiler followingin her brothers’ footsteps, coming in secondplace, leaving Leah Oke in third place. Thenext day, Sunday the 16th was the Longboarddivision. The finalist champion of theLongboard division was Mike Stupka. Thewhole event was outstanding, there was ahuge turnout, and the competition was high.We are all looking forward to the next contest
8
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Brochure on NootkaWest Coast Trail Released
The Federation of Mountain Clubs ofB.C. (FMCBC) recently produced abrochure entitled "The Nootka Trail:Walking the Wild WestCoast", describing theNootka Trail, a scenic coastalhiking route that follows thewestern coast of NootkaIsland. Nootka Island is thethe largest island off the westcoast of Vancouver Island. Thepurpose of the brochure is two-fold - to provide usefulinformation for people wantingto hike the route, and to focusattention on the threat thatproposed development (includinglogging) poses to this uniquewilderness hike. The trail passesthrough a rich and diverse coastalecosystem, bordered by a fringe ofold growth forest that needs to beprotected. The Nootka Trail rivals thefamous West Coast Trail in both sceneryand wildlife viewing opportunities. Butbecause few people are aware of the area,it has received no publicity and littleprotection from development.
Heather and Rolf Kellerhals, whoprovided some of the trail information,have hiked the west coast of Nootka Island
several times since the early 1980's. Theyhope the brochure will bring more visitors,
who will in turn demand moreadequate protection for an area ofincredible diversity and beauty.A private logging road now leadsright onto the coast, moreplanned cutblocks are clusteredalong the coastal fringe,commercial applications arepending ... Althoughpublicizing wilderness areasmay ultimately compromisethose values, hiker PaulHorvath who knows thearea well and has led groupsthere, believes that loggingposes a more immediatethreat.
Publication of thebrochure was made
possible through funding from theMountain Equipment Co-op'sEnvironment Fund. Copies of thebrochure are available on request from theFMCBC office (Phone: (604) 878-7007;http://www.mountainclubs.bc.ca Or theymay be picked up at various VancouverIsland tourist information centres oroutdoor stores.
Submitted by: Markus Kellerhals
The FMCBC: Working For YouThe Federation of Mountain Clubs of
British Columbia (FMCBC) has sponsoredthe development of the Nootka Trailbrochure through its advocacy role inwilderness access and preservation.
The FMCBC, a non-profit society,comprises a diverse group of non-mechanized mountain and wildernessrecreationalists including hikers,mountaineers, backpackers, rock climbers,skiers, snowboarders and snowshoers withan interest in the protection andpreservation of the mountain and otherwilderness environments. The FMCBCcurrently has 18 Member Clubs, includinga number on Vancouver Island: the AlberniValley Outdoor Club, the Alpine Club ofCanada (Vancouver Island Section), ClubTread, Comox District MountaineeringClub, Island Mountain Ramblers, OutdoorClub of Victoria, Vancouver Island TrailsInformation Society.
The FMCBC conducts advocacyactivities through its committees. TheTrails Committee works to have BC’s hiking
trails recognized, protected, and maintained.It runs an Adopt-a-Trail program, promotestrail construction practices andmaintenance, and identifies grants for trailprojects.
The Recreation and ConservationCommittee identifies and promotes theprotection of natural and recreation areas.This Committee represents FMCBCmembers’ interests in resource managementissues and processes, develops policies, andensures awareness of conservation issuesthrough communications with FMCBCmembers, industry, government, and public.
The Education and Safety Committeepromotes safe hiking and mountain travelthrough effective leadership and educationprograms.
If you are interested in moreinformation, contribute to Committee work,or would like to join the FMCBC, either asan individual, or through one of its memberclubs, please call: 604-876-7047, or view theWebsite: www.mountainclubs.bc.ca.
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as little as anhour can help out
VOLUNTEERING IN PARADISE
WIWIWIWIWI
SEAKayaking
R E S O R TR E S O R T
WHISKEY POINTWHISKEY POINT
* Valid May 1 - Oct 15, 2000 based on double occupancy
Price will vary with seasonNot valid with any other discount
$139*$139*price per person
includes all taxes!
WILDLIFE SAFARIat Knight Inlet Lodge
RAINCOAST
Grizzly & Black Bears, Humpback, Minke and Killer WhalesSea Lions, Bald Eagles
Fly-in all inclusive guided adventuresSept. 1 - Oct 15
Kayak Tours
Cycling Tours
Outfitter Store
First Aid Instruction
Lessons
Two Locations to Serve YouOutfitter Store
471 Trans-Canada, Duncanbeside Bow-Mel Chrysler
250 748-0512
Rental Store1765 Cowichan Bay Rdat the Bluenose Marina
250 748-0511
Livin' The Dream!
www.ecowest.com1-888-326-9378
Strathcona Park, Forbidden Plateau area,is being loved to death! With approximately70,000 local and international people visitingannually, this special littlepiece of paradise isbeginning to feel theaffects of its greatpopularity. The plateau isone of the more popularparts of the 250,445ha. Strathcona Park andis the only sub-alpine/alpine area onVancouver Island which is easily accessedby the general public. The high quality pavedroad completed in 1996 has helped increasethe use of the park and together withenhancements at Mt.Washington Ski Resort,visitation is expected to continue to grow.
As use increases, so does the need formore information. BC Parks wants to makemore people aware of the importance of thispark and how to properly explore thesensitive sub-alpine/alpine areas. Visitorsalso want to know more about StrathconaPark's history, flora and fauna, trailconditions, camp sites, day hikes, good picnic
spots and distance to popular areas. Thereare some visitors who don't even realize theyare in Strathcona Park, especially in the
winter, when nordic skitrails follow differentroutes than the summertrails and blend in with theMt.Washington operations.
A visitor centre wouldhelp, however, such a development if possible,is a few years from becoming a reality. In themeantime, BC Parks needs to call on thesupport of the local communities who havetraditionally rallied when the park needshelp.
BC Parks, with co-operation andassistance from Strathcona WildernessInstitute has developed a new volunteerinitiative - The Strathcona Park Trail Hostprogram. Trail Hosts provide basicinformation to park visitors while walkingalong the popular day use trails or greetingpeople at a new temporary information hutlocated at the Paradise Meadows trailhead.No experience is necessary, only a love of theoutdoors and a desire to share your passionand support for Strathcona Park. If timecommitments are an issue, as little as an hourcan help out and can be worked into a daytrip you may have been planning anyway.
Many readers of Wild Isle Magazineknow Strathcona Park well and spend manyhours of recreating there. Please considercontributing a little of that time back to thepark, sharing your passion and knowledgewith other less frequent visitors.
In order to participate in this volunteeropportunity, we request interestedindividuals or groups contact Andy Smith,BC Parks, Extension Officer at Tel: (250) 337-2405, Fax: 337- 5695.
E-mail: [email protected] stop into the Miracle Beach park Office at1812 Miracle Beach Drive, Black Creek,British Columbia, V9J 1K.
by AndrewSmith
Buttle Lake, Strathcona Park
10
Ok, so you can’t climb 5.14, and the chances of you crankinga one- arm pull- up are about zero. You've never met ScottFranklin or Christian Griffith and your picture has never been in one of the
climbing mags. So you’re not sponsored, nobody is handing you cash to climb andyou’re bummed. You want to be cool; you want the care- free lifestyle of a twenty-year-old model that has just hooked up with a dying millionaire.Is there a way for you to live your life, climbing every day and avoiding the dreadedprospect of the ‘real job’? Well yes, even without the help of Regis Philbin you can makeit happen, you can live the dream and be a ‘pro’ climber. Of course it won’t be theSharma Esq. utopia you have always longed for, this the real world you know. But fear notthis isn't the ìreal worldî you parents have lectured you about, in this world you only needa part time job and a place with cheap rent. The job is the key, finding a place to put P.B.& J on the table is paramount to the whole lifestyle. The trick is to find just the right job,something that combines; not too hard, not too easy, not too much responsibility andenough money and time off to let you continue your rock star lifestyle. What follows is alist of possible jobs that are popular with the outdoor geek crowd, and I have included asa public service what you really want to know, “How bad does this job suck”.
The Life of the The Life of the The Life of the The Life of the The Life of the Un-Un-Un-Un-Un-
Above: Checkin’ inon the Nasdaqbefore hitting thepumpfest at Owen’sRiver Gorge.Left: That flashynew SUV’ll have towait until thesponsor calls.
Living The DreamLiving The DreamLiving The DreamLiving The DreamLiving The Dreamby Scott Kennedy
Working at the Gear Shop
FROM THE OUTSIDE:You will be on the leading edge of the climbingworld. Conversing with manufactures aboutproduct development while doing R&D next year’sgear. You will be working with the local hard-core climbers with whom you will share beta andcompare all of the free gear you are getting.
FROM THE INSIDE:It’s minimum wage time! You will spend six daysa week behind a till selling stuff to people whoonly buy their down jackets to wear to the nextrave. The only free stuff you get from outdoorcompanies is their propaganda and the occasionalt-shirt. Your co-workers are try-hard posers whoget out twice per year, but still manage to justifythe purchase of an aid rack and titanium stove.
BOTTOM LINE:At least at McDonalds you get free food.
Sponsored
Climber
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The Manual Labor Job
FROM THE OUTSIDE:While making more money then a doctoryou will stay in shape and have yourweekends free to climb all you want.FROM THE INSIDE:“You mean seven, in the morning?” Yourdays will be filled with manual labor thatyou would expect to see in some CambodianP.O.W. camp. You co- workers areNeanderthals who have less education thenyour 9-year-old sister and take pride intreating you like dirt just because you havean earring. Weekends free? Forget it, this iscontract work you work until the job is done.THE BOTTOM LINE:The money is good but you are too tired tospend it, let alone climb.
The Night Job
FROM THE OUTSIDE:You will spend your days in the hills whilezipping back to town to tend bar, hit on theladies and show off your muscles.FROM THE INSIDE:If you are lucky enough to land a job at apub you will spend your nights mopping upvomit and talking to drunks who insist thatyou look just like their uncle Ted. Trying towork all night and climb all day works greatfor exactly, one day. Confucius say, “Nosleepe no red pointe.”THE BOTTOM LINE:You will now have a story about the summeryou never slept and how it almost killed you.
4 on 4 off Shift Work
FROM THE OUTSIDE:I’ll use my climbing expertise to land a jobwith the Fire Department or perhaps with theNavy Seals. I’ll make loads of cash saving theworld four days per week. Chicks will dig me.FROM THE INSIDE:You will have to be serious about this one,thousands apply to be firemen and only justa few get in. So quitting after a month tohead down to the Valley isn’t cool.THE BOTTOM LINE:It’s hard to pick up chicks when they havejust witnessed their home burn to thefoundation, and I don’t believe the NavySeals are currently hiring unemployedCanadians.
Working at the Gym
FROM THE OUTSIDE:You get to hang out at the gym with all yourmates, climbing all day, getting paid to get strong.What more could you ask for?FROM THE INSIDE:You spend every nice day locked in a chalk filleddungeon hanging out with 14 year- old kids whoare stronger then you. ‘Have you taken out thegarbage yet?’THE BOTTOM LINE:This job does have status, you are perceived ashard- core. But when push comes to shove youstill are till- boy for six days a week.
The OutdoorPhotographer/Writer
FROM THE OUTSIDE:National Geographic is going to send me toKerblackistan to shoot photos of the first ascentof an unclimbed rock face. Then I’ll travel theworld with the slide show while ghost writingChris Sharma’s Autobiography for millions ofdollars.FROM THE INSIDE:You’ll drop thousands on camera gear so youcan take photos that are just as bad as the onesyou took before with your Kodak disk camera.Climbing magazine returns all of your submissionsun- opened because they just don’t need anymore butt shots of people top roping at WassoochSlabs. And nobody is interested in your article ofthe blow, by blow account of your successfulascent of Mount Lady McDonald.THE BOTTOM LINE:If you like rejection then this is the choice for you.Be prepared for editors to tell you that yourbiographic piece was, “really boring”. Avoid thiscareer move if you are in a fragile state of mind,such as if you just broke up with your girlfriendor your first ascent just got down graded.
Trust Fund Recipient
FROM THE OUTSIDE:This is the brass ring baby! Uncle Gord has comethrough with a couple of hundred grand for youto blow on pure fun!FROM THE INSIDE:Unless your uncle is daddy Warbucks this just isn’tgoing to happen, besides its getting close to RRSPtime and its never to early to start thinking aboutthe future!THE BOTTOM LINE:Keep dreaming, and when you do inherit theMicrosoft Corp. remember who your friends are.
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770 Bay Street in downtown Victoria
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The U.I. Climbing Team
FROM THE OUTSIDE:The government is going to pay me good moneyto play in the mountains while I, ‘look for a job’FROM THE INSIDE:I hope you like Kraft dinner. The only thing that’s‘good’ about the money is that the checks don’tbounce. You know they actually expect you tolook for a job? Who knew?THE BOTTOM LINE:If you have no pride or shame this is the job foryou. Be prepared for your mother to think youare a failure and start mentioning things like, ìawaste of a lifeÖî Chin up son, you’re climbinglots.
Student
FROM THE OUTSIDE:Attend a few classes, make the fam proud andget a degree to boot. I’ll have loads of time toclimb, I’ll set up my schedule so I have Thursdays,Fridays and Mondays off, it’ll, be great.FROM THE INSIDE:“Hey these classes are hard. You mean I actuallyhave to study or I’ll be thrown out of school andbe forced to get a real job.” You have to makethe decision, climbing vs. school; you have topick one because you are going to suck at theother.THE BOTTOM LINE:
Worth doing so if you blow your tendonsyou don’t have to work at McDonalds forever.
So what does all this mean? Well in the end, jobsare no fun. Especially when you would rather beout in the mountains with your friends. But whatcan you do? Working for, ‘the man’ is just a partof life that at some point you are going to haveto accept.Through my experience the harder you fight thisfact the more fun you are going to have. I meanyou can throw in the towel now and give up thedream and become a weekend warrior completewith Nissan Xterra and beer gut, but why?I say, wake up every morning and relish the factthat you have next to no responsibility in theworld. Live for the fact that you have chosen alife style that puts emphasis on the mostimportant thing in your life, you. It's not selfishto put yourself first, its just perspective.Remember you are in charge of your own life. Ifyou want something in this world you are goingto have to go and get it, so get out there climb,look at the mountains, laugh with your friendsand be the master of your own destiny.
“Find a job you love and you’ll never work a dayin your life”
-UnknownWIWIWIWIWIGabe Jutras, Kwisatz Haderach 5.11d, Crest Creek Photo: Josie BouldingGabe Jutras, Kwisatz Haderach 5.11d, Crest Creek Photo: Josie Boulding
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HIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDEHIKING GUIDESTRATHCONASTRATHCONASTRATHCONASTRATHCONASTRATHCONAPROVINCIAL PARKPROVINCIAL PARKPROVINCIAL PARKPROVINCIAL PARKPROVINCIAL PARK
From the tidal waters of HerbertInlet to the icefields of MarinerMountain and Vancouver Island’shighest peak the Golden Hinde,Stathcona Park preserves anexquisite landscape, and a richdiversity of animal & plant life.
Strathcona offers a hikingexperience for everyone. For aflavour of the park: interpretive looptrails give an informative look at theflora, fauna and ecology of the
coastal rainforest. Short walks leadto viewpoints overlooking waterfallsor wildlife habitat and many of thelonger trails offer plenty for even theshortest stroll part way along them.
Day hikers with time enough tofollow a trail for 4, 6 or 8 hours will
be rewarded by superlativepanoramic views from above thetreeline (the ‘alpine’), an immersionin the lush, vibrant coastal rainforestor the drama of a rugged, mountainlandscape complete with jewel-likealpine lakes and cascadingwaterfalls.
It is however the backpacker andmountaineer with 2, 4 or 6 nights athand who will discover the essenceof Strathcona by travelling fromtrailhead to trail end and into thevast backcountry wilderness beyond.
Top- Hiking above Volcano Lake.Below- Hikers, summit of Mt McBride.Left- Ptarmigan, hardy alpine native.
by Philip Stone
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Buttle Lake
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Mt Haig Brown
Mt DeVoe
Mt Burman
Mt Matchlee
Mt Phillips
Mt MyraMt Thelwood
Mt Tom Taylor
Moyeha Mtn
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Golden HindeBehinde
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Elkhorn
Puzzle Mtn
Crest Mtn
Mt Laing
Mt Colonel Foster
Big Den Mtn
Crown Mtn
Mt McBride
Inlet
Above - Descending Northwest Ridge of Elkhorn.Above Right - Nine Peaks & Love Lake from Mt RousseauSilhouette of Strathcona peaks from near Mt George V.
Trails ofStrathcona Park
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Mt Washington
Forbidden Plateau
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Rousseau
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Cumberland
Courtenay
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The Red Pillar
Mt Harmston
Argus Mtn
Comox Gl
Mt Adrian
Mt Albert Edward
Great Central Lake
LEGEND
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CAMPINGAs with many of British Columbia’s wildernessparks, visitor impact is becoming an increasingproblem in Strathcona Park. To help mitigatethe impact of overnight stays camping alonghiking trails is encouraged at designated orestablished sites only. Watch for signs attrailheads detailing designated site locations. Ifno sites are listed, use one of the obviousestablished sites enroute rather than hacking anew tent site out of the forest. In thebackcountry campers should use their ownjudgement in selecting sites. No-trace campingtechniques should be employed at all camp sites.No fires are permitted in Strathcona Parkat anytime. Payment of a Backcountry user feeis now required at some trailheads. Depositvaults and envelopes are prominently displayedwhere in effect.
DRIVE-IN CAMPINGStrathcona Park has two drive-in campgrounds onButtle Lake at Ralph River and Buttle Narrows. Anew group campground, Driftwood Bay, hasopened adjacent to the Buttle Narrows site. Noreservations are yet required for these sites.Other campgrounds in the area include:Elk Falls, Loveland Bay- Campbell RiverComox Lake- CumberlandStamp Falls- Port Alberni
GUIDEBOOKSHiking Trails III
MAP SHEETSGold River 92 E/16Upper Campbell Lake 92 F/13Buttle Lake 92 F/12Bedwell River 92 F/5Great Central Lake 92 F/6Forbidden Plateau 92 F/11
USEFUL PHONE NUMBERSBC Parks Miracle Beach - 250 337-2400
WEB SITESwww.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca/activities/hikingwww.wildislemagazine.bc.ca/bookstore/hikingoberon.ark.com/~dragon/hiking/the_park.htmlmars.ark.com/~bjtipper/trails_g.htm
StrathconaWilderness Ins t i tu t e
Working in partnership with BC Parks, ’SWI’ inspires awareness, appreciation,
and stewardship of the natural world through education and participation.
To learn more about programs and volunteering opportunities
Call (250) 337-1871Call (250) 337-1871
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10-BEDWELLTrailhead: Jim Mitchell Lake Rd
Length: 4km Trailhead to Cream Jntn
Elevation: ~400m
Camping: Designated sites at BabyBedwell Lake & Bedwell Lake
Synopsis: Very easy trail and one ofthe quickest ways to reach theStrathcona alpine. Branch of trailcontinues to Cream Lake & views ofDella Falls. Omnitis trail descendsfrom Bedwell Lake to ClayoquotSound at Bedwell Sound.
Notes: Despite elaborateinfrastructure, trail is currentlyplagued with closures due to winterdamage to bridges. Route to BedwellSound is overgrown withy sectionswashed out.
11-PHILLIPS RIDGETrailhead: Westmin/Boliden mine
Length: 4km Westmin-Arnica Lake
Elevation: ~800m
Camping: Arnica Lake
Synopsis: Trail switchbacks upforested hillside to subalpine atArnica Lake. Pass waterfall enroute.Few good views until much furtheralong ridge than Arnica Lake.
Camping: Circlet Lake
Synopsis: Gently climbing trailwinds through meadows and ontohigher country on Mt Albert Edward.
Notes: With a trailhead close totreeline this is the easiest trail onwhich to reach the alpine.
6-FORBIDDEN PLATEAUTrailhead: Forbidden Plateau Ski Park
Length: 16km Ski Area to Kwai Lake
Elevation: ~400m
Camping: Established sites.
Synopsis: Gentle trail climbs up skiruns to subalpine plateau where itweaves through forested meadows toMt Becher and on to join trails inParadise Meadows.
7- COMOX GLACIERTrailhead: Comox Creek logging rd
Length: 8km
Elevation: ~1700m
Camping: Meadow at Frog Pond
Synopsis: Steep, well maintainedtrail weaves up forested hillside toalpine meadows. A narrow, exposed,rocky ridge leads on to Lone Tree Passand the final climb onto the Glacier.
Notes: Rocky ridge may be slick inrain or snow. Few crevasse hazards.Access to Cliffe Glacier, Argus,Harmston & Red Pillar. Accesslogging roads subject to frequentclosures due to flooding & logging.
8-FLOWER RIDGETrailhead: Western Mines Rd
Length: 7km Trailhead-alpine
Elevation: 1200m
Camping: At treeline and along ridge
Synopsis: Trail winds up toe of ridgeto alpine. Long easy hike along ridgewith great views of surroundingpeaks and Buttle Lake.
Notes: Flower Ridge can be used asstart or finish for trips to Comox &Cliffe Glaciers, Mt Washington,Cream Lake & Oshinow Lake.
9- PRICE CREEKTrailhead: Western Mines Rd
Length: 12km Trailhead-Cream Lake
Elevation: 1000m
Camping: Established sites enroute& at Cream Lake.
Synopsis: Begins on old logging/mining road. Leads up old growthvalley then climbs steeply up intoalpine at Cream Lake, one of the mostpicturesque locations on VancouverIsland. Views of Della Falls, NinePeaks and Mt Septimus.
Notes: Historically significant trailboth from early expeditions throughto Port Alberni and
Notes: Phillips Ridge trail is start/finish of Elk River-Westmin traversevia Golden Hinde. Loop aroundPhillips Creek via Marble Meadowsalso possible.
12-MT MYRATrailhead: Westmin/Boliden mine
Length: 7km Westmin-summit
Elevation: ~1400m
Camping: Tenent Lake, Sandbag Lake
Synopsis: Terrible trail up an old catroad leading to scenic alpine and aneasy peak.
Notes: Access to connecting ridge toMt Thelwood. Excellent circuit viaThelwood and Upper Myra Fallstrail.
13-DELLA FALLSTrailhead: Great Central Lake
Length: 12 km
Elevation: ~500m
Camping: Established sites
Synopsis: Trailhead is reached byboat at the west end of Great CentralLake from Port Alberni. Follows oldlogging and mining trail alongDrinkwater Creek to base of DellaFalls.
1-GOLD LAKETrailhead(s): Salmon River Main viaMenzies Bay - Campbell River and EastRoad via Woss-Gold River Rd
Length: ~12km through trip
Camping: Gold Lake
Synopsis: Trail leads through lowelevation forest & marsh-lands. Hugecedars, elk and freshwater fishing arehighlights.
Notes: Trail links two logging roadsystems but shuttle logistics makethrough trip impractical.
2-CREST MOUNTAINTrailhead: Highway 28
Length: 3km
Elevation Gain: ~1400m
Camping: On summit plateau
Synopsis: Series of switchbacksclimb a forested hillside to alpinemeadows and lake. Superb viewssouth into Elk River valley.
Notes: Access for backcountrytoward Big Den and Gold Lake.
3- ELK RIVER TRAILTrailhead: Highway 28
Length: 10km
Elevation Gain: ~600m
Camping: Butterwort Creek &Gravel Bar only. No campingpermitted at Landslide Lake.
Synopsis: Long easy trail up oldgrowth valley to Landslide Lake.Dramatic mountain veiws of MtColonel Foster and Elkhorn. Longday hike or 1-2 nights.
Notes: The ERT provides access forElkhorn & longer trips towardRambler Peak, Golden Hinde, MarbleMeadows and Westmin/Boliden viaPhillips Ridge.
4-MARBLE MEADOWSTrailhead: East shore of Buttle Lakevia Western Mines Rd & Buttle Lake.
Length: 5km Buttle Lake-Wheaton Hut
Elevation: ~1300m
Camping: At trailhead, Halfway andin meadows.
Synopsis: This boat only access trailclimbs up a steep forested hillsideinto a maze of meadows and karsttopography.
Notes: Access for Mt McBride.Superb backcountry skiing in winter& spring. Wildflowers and lakes insummer.
5-PARADISE MEADOWSTrailhead: Mt Washington Nordic Cntr
Length: 14km Trailhead-Mt Albert Edward
Elevation: ~1000m
Westmin-Boliden
Mt Washingtona
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Great Central Lake
Tofino
Ucluelet
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CourtenayGold River
Campbell River
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Some people say that your life is a predetermined path. Followinga linear sequence of events, no matter what decisions you makethe outcome will remain the same. Others speculate that life is
completely random. A statistical universe of probability where we aresimply flotsam and jetsam along for the ride. Whatever you believe,recognizing opportunity when it’s staring you straight in the face is what’simportant. At times this easier said than done. It is easier to think ofobstacles and barriers which prevent us from doing amazing things.Everyone knows what they are, although they’re different for each of us.Think for a second, what is preventing you from doing something great.I’m thinking of life defining moments that shape who we are. Now don’tthink. Decide to do it and make it happen. This is exactly what I did.
I had been wintering on Vancouver Island because the lifestyle andclimate agrees with me. Skiing and other pursuits taking up most of mytime. I worked at the local mountain just so I wouldn’t have to pay for apass. You don’t make much money, but you get to ski and anyone who isin love with their sport knows, that’s all that matters. That is untilsomeone throws a wrench into the well oiled machine that has becomeyour life. Which is what happened.
It was another day in paradise, a little work and a lot of play. A thenacquaintance of mine stopped by to shoot the breeze. I knew he wasleaving the mountain so I thought he was simply stopping by one lasttime for a send off. I think he thought the same. Stay with me here, thisis going somewhere... You see, Gerry was leaving for Thailand in twoweeks time where he would be guiding a research group that studiesblind cave fish. This was his third year doing so. In the midst of skiingand riding we had spoken briefly of it and I expressed an interest inpursuing similar work. When Gerry casually mentioned that one of theparticipants was unable to make it this year I almost thought nothing ofit. When he tauntingly said that I should join them. I think I shocked usboth when I immediately said “OK”.
One millisecond of unquestioning synaptic activity and a barrage ofe-mails later. I was in. I was going. I had two weeks...give or take a day.Visa, plane ticket, immunization and gear not to mention how to pay forit all. These were not barriers. They were gates and I was flying through
them. Luckily excitement is contagious and everyone with whom I dealtwere tremendously helpful. I explained the situation to my employer.“It’s Thailand...” My supervisor having been to southeast Asia simplysaid “When are you leaving?” I cashed some RRSPs quit my job andfound myself a week later greeting Gerry outside baggage claim at BKK.
Just like that I found myself at the Victory Monument smack in themiddle of Bangkok at two am toasting the weird chain of events withGer over some Chiang beer. The humidity, the hum of air-con, the rumbleof dump trucks, the buzz of two stroke motorcycles and the crow ofroosters. These are the sounds of Bangkok. Even without the jetlagBangkok is surreal. A city that truly never sleeps. We would meet withDr. Borowsky in a day or so and the various arrangements would ensue.Permits, Taxes, Surtaxes and goodwill. All necessary for our trips toChiayaphum and Mae Hong Son provinces.
These things, I have discovered, take time. It was six days before wegot out of Bangkok. After touring the Chao Praya River, the many temples,night and weekend markets, we came to the conclusion that we reallyhad to get out of town. Yes, we did go to Soi Nana, but not Soi Cowboy,or Pat Pong. For those who don’t know Bangkok, prostitution andgambling are illegal, however widely available. It's superficiallyentertaining, but deeply disturbing industry, where lives are bought andsold. Everyone should see this side of Thailand, but you have to trulylook to see what’s going on and understand the resulting Thai attitudein regards to most foreigners. I have to say that six days after our arrivalin Bangkok I was extremely glad to get in an air-con van bound for PhuKheio Wildlife sanctuary. That is until we got onto the highway, whereI soon discovered that there are offensive and defensive driving techniquesin Thailand not taught in North America. They go like this. Might makesright and the only time Thais are in a hurry is when they’re behind thewheel of a motor vehicle. Oh, and amphetamine will get you there ontime. We were always on time.
Phu Kheio Wildlife Sanctuary is a magnificent karst and sandstoneplateau. We spent three nights and two days in an area that even mostThais never venture. A jungle trip to Tewada cave was our firstdestination. We were provided ample guides and porters. All of whomwore special gaiters, of which we had none. In Chiayaphum there areterrestrial leeches. If you go there, they will get you. You'll walk aroundoblivious, until someone points out the chocolate coloured stains on yourpant cuffs. Memo to self. Gaiters for the next jungle trip. The leeches areunpleasant, however they're only a minor nuisance, as long as they don'tmake it past your knee.
Our guides lead us through a labyrinth of game trails that appearedto have been made by a bulldozer. They made our progress through jungleeasier but no faster, mostly because nobody including our guides or, theirG.P.S., knew exactly where the cave was. While we considered whetherwe really wanted to come face to face with a wild herd of territorialAsian elephants, another debate between local knowledge and globaltechnology was taking place. I’m still not sure who prevailed. Six hoursand countless kilometres from the ranger station our guides found thewhite limestone cliff and the insurgence to Tewada.
It was time to go underground...
by Alex BaechlerCAVING INCAVING INCAVING INCAVING INCAVING INCAVING INCAVING INCAVING INCAVING INCAVING IN THAILANDTHAILANDTHAILANDTHAILANDTHAILANDTHAILANDTHAILANDTHAILANDTHAILANDTHAILAND
“The leeches are ... only aminor nuisance, as long as theydon't make it past your knee.”
Ger
ry &
tea
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ffin
nea
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ppon
g, M
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ong
Son.
Ale
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aech
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Tewada is a beautiful cave. Did I mentionthat I had never been caving before. That I’m alittle claustrophobic and I sleep with a nightlight. It must have slipped my mind. I will skipthe juvenile euphemistic innuendo that is soeasily applied to caving. Simply said all others,superior or inferior will forever be compared.Truly a defining experience. That night ourguides prepared a delicious meal, influenced byLao and Issan regions. Rice whisky to warm usup rice, of course. Fresh water shrimp, frog,Lapp which is fermented fish marinated in duckblood... more rice whisky. Everyone was veryhospitable. We laughed late into the night. Weretired to the tent only to find it had become anew hive for a colony of sweat bees. Severalstings later we succumbed to a Lao cao inducedsleep. There will be work to do in the morning.
Our group awoke early, my head poundingfrom formaldehyde whisky residue. Back into
the cave this time to collect live specimens. Withour work done we say goodbye to Tewada. Itwas important that we make good time if thefish were to survive. We did make good timeuntil someone decided to take a short-cut.Eventually we arrived at the ranger station,everyone and the fish intact. Our hosts treatedus to a farewell dinner where we celebrated oursuccess and the many stories we now shared.Ger remarked on how fortunate we were tohave had such a great experience. There is nodoubt in my mind. A defining moment.
Our next destination was Cave Lodge inMae Hong Son province. Our host John Speasand his gracious staff headed by the capable andlovely Pen provided us with all the necessities.The cashew chicken is delicious. Thaam Lod, anearby tourist cave was great way to spend ourfirst evening. At six we caught the exchange ofbats and swallows which takes place every duskand dawn. The next week was devoted to thecollection and observation of specimens.Blindfish cave and porkies pit with theirelevated levels of C02 were first on the list.
The C02 is derived from decaying organicmatter washed into the cave. Foliage, wild &domestic animals and crazy humans who areunaware they’re not subterranean creatures.There is some debate over how, but one thingremains certain. C02 makes it hard to breathand function in a rational manner. Some saythe gas displaces oxygen, others say the oxygenis present, but the C02 saturates the bloodaphixiating you on a cellular level. All I knowis not breathing is counter productive to beingalive. The potential for an atmospheric pressuredifferential causing a cave to blow out is a veryreal danger. The heat of the day causing air torise. A change in pressure drawing air out of acave will turn acceptable levels in one area todangerous or fatal levels quite quickly. My
motto, when in doubt chicken out. We ate a lotof chicken.
The muddy sump of Thaam Nong Pachamis on my list of places never to return to again;However given the opportunity I will visit moreof the coffin caves which seem quite numerousin Mae Hong Son. The coffins are enormousteak logs carved and hauled up the limestonemountains, erected on stilts in the recesses ofcaves. The people who placed them there haveyet to be identified, or discovered. The coffinsthemselves have been dated between 1800 &2000 years old. They range between two toseven meters in length.
The final cave of our trip in Mae Hong Sonwas Mae La Na. A fourteen kilometre throughsystem. We only ventured two and a halfkilometres to the first tributary. Returning todo a through trip has been added to my list ofthings to do before I die. Mae La Na is asimmense as it is beautiful. I look forward toseeing it again.
From then on we were on our own. Richardreturned to New York to study his live specimensat the N.Y. Zoo. The research leg of the trip donewe caught a train south to Trang province. Relaxingon the beach at Packmeng and the Island of KohMook. The caving continued though. ThaamMorocout, a sea cave. Ger, his family and myselfhired a longtail boat that took us to the entrance.The tide was high the entrance small. Did Imention I have a phobia about deep water. Nonethe less we all persevered and were rewarded. Atthe end of the cave is a gorgeous emerald lagoon.A paradise. We spent some time just taking in theplace. It was decided we should return to the boat.As we made our way around the ninety degreecorner leading out to the sea an eerie groanemanated from the cave. It was the sound of thewaves forcing air out of the deeper recesses riddlingthe cave walls.
As we re-enter the lightzone it becameapparent that the wind had picked up and the swellof the waves made the entrance alternate betweenemerald green sea and brooding grey sky. Did Imention the razor sharp shellfish that line theceiling? It was just another one of those definingmoments. When you trust your judgement andability to prevail. When you don’t have time todoubt yourself. You act according to the situationand find yourself better for it.
I am continually amazed at the generosity andtrust extended by my travelling and cavingpartners. It is a trust which is rarely spoken, butalways reciprocated. One second of not thinkingabout barriers brought an experience and somegreat friends into the meandering path that hasbecome my life. I thank all who made it possibleand I'm glad I was able recognize the moment.The fleeting moment between deciding and doing.Where it's already done and you just don't realiseit yet. A defining moment. Whether it was mypredetermined path or random chaos I am notcertain. Of this I am though. Not going was neveran option. I’m just glad opportunity walked upand slapped me in the face.
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MT COLONELMT COLONELMT COLONELMT COLONELMT COLONELFOSTERFOSTERFOSTERFOSTERFOSTER
SUMMER ROUTES
SC- South Summit via South Col & South Gullies **AI2-4th class ~1500+m (ll)Approach as above to Landslide Lake and around the south shore to IcebergLake. Walk from Iceberg Lake up the lower glacier below the South Col. Headup the narrow snow gully linking the upper and lower glaciers or when thawedscramble up the rock ribs on the right side of the gully. Attention should bepaid to the avalanche exposure here at anytime of year. Continue up snow orice to South Col. The South Col can also be reached from Elk Pass.From the South Col two parallel gullies lead directly up to the South Summit.When full of snow these gullies are a fast and easy climb but with thaw/nosnow become more difficult, with exposed rock scrambling and lots of loosegravel. Easier gullies can be reached by heading round to the south west sidefrom the col. These gullies join the South Gullies at a shoulder from wherethe rest of the climb is a steep hike to the South Summit.FA: Survey party 1936
Ringing the Elk River valley in the northern end of StrathconaPark are a group of Vancouver Island’s highest and mostimpressive alpine peaks: King’s Peak, Elkhorn, Rambler Peak
and Mt Colonel Foster. “The Colonel” is the fourth highest peak andundisputed alpine climbing mecca on the Island and is reached withrelative ease by a trek up the Elk River Trail to Landslide Lake. TheLake comes by its name after an earthquake centred off Comox in1946 shook loose a large section of the North Tower. The resultinglandslide swept a wave of debris and lake water several kilometresdown the Elk valley leaving scars that remain clearly visible to this day.
Colonel Foster is named for William Washborough Foster, a Colonelin the Victoria regiment and noted mountaineer of his day. Themountain was visited by survey parties and numerous summitattempts throughout the 1900’s but it wasn’t until 1968 that MikeWalsh succeeded in reaching the main summit. Since then many fineroutes have been established on the various aspects of the mountainwith many many more waiting to be climbed.
APPROACH:4-6 hours to Landslide Lake via Elk River trail from Highway #28. To reacheither the South or North col, traverse around Landslide Lake on south shoreon a good beaten path to Iceberg Lake. To North Col, head directly R up moraineand through timber to slide basin and on to the alpine shoulder. To South Col,ascend snow gullies or low 5th class slabs depending on snow cover to SouthGlacier and South Col. The North Col can also be reached by striking directlyup the forest from Landslide Lake but is very bushy! An alternative routepreferable in late summer/fall to the South Col is to via Elk Pass and hike oversatellite peak, descending an easy gully in to the South Col.Usual descents are completed by: continuing or backtracking along the summittraverse to either end, rappelling any number of lines down the west face, ortaking the exposed but direct Snow Band Route with 1 or 2 raps.
SB- Snow Band Route: AI2 5.10 800m (lll) **Approach as for the South Col but leave the South Glacier on a spur glacierthat rises under the South Summits. A couple of rock pitches lead on to theSummit Glacier and joins the Summit Traverse near the gendarme. Can alsobe used as a descent route off the mountain with a couple of rappels over therock step. Exposed!!FA: Mike Walsh, Joe Bajan June 1974
C- Cataract: 5.8 1350m (lV) ***A very long route up a beautiful knife-edge arete. Start far left of the waterfallthat pours out of a cleft in the face. Climb 400m of 4th/low 5th class up thelower of two parallel angled gullies to a committing free hanging rappel downto the lip of the waterfall. Cross the creek! Escape over a steep bulge on theother side (~5.7). 20 easy pitches 4th class -5.8 follow up the knife-edgearete to a glacial arete & on to the summit ridge near the gendarme.FA: Philip Stone, Sarah Homer 6-7 August 1988
Summit Elevation: 7,000 ft./2135mFirst Ascent: Mike Walsh, June 1968First Winter Ascent: Joe Bajan, Ross Nichol, January 1978Map Sheet: 92 F/13 (GR 9314) & 92 F/12
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Elk River Trail
Upper Elk Valley
Elk Pass
South Col
Landslide Lake
Iceberg Lake
North Col
Rambler PeakMt Colonel Foster
WINTER ROUTESGC- Grand Central Coulior ***AI 4 1000m (Vl)Follows coulior to Main Summit. Also climbed inspring conditions.FA: Doug Scott, Rob Wood, Greg Child January1985
D- Dirrettissima ***AI4 1000m (V)One of Canada’s finest winter climbs! Follows aplumline coulior with sustained 70-80 degree ice.FA: Joe Bajan, Ross Nichol 28-31 January 1978
NORTH TOWERThe North Tower can be approached from eitherend of Landslide Lake. From the the outflow ofLandslide Creek, cross the log jam and head upthrough steep very bushy timber to gain theshoulder below the Tower. Alternatively, followthe rough path around the south shore of Landslidelake to the far side. Continue up to the moraine byFoster Lake, then head up through open timber toa boulder field and then onto the shoulder belowthe North Buttress.
NB- North Buttress: 5.8 400m (lll) ***Excellent rock and excellent protection for 6pitches of 5.6-8, lead to a ledge. There are severaloptions up a short, steep wall ~5.9-8 leading to asummit boulder garden. 2 rappels down West Face.FA: Scott Flavelle, Perry Beckham August 1977
LB- Lost Boys: 5.9 175m (ll) **Climb an easy ramp and ledge system out of thecoulior to the base of a steep chimney. Climb cracksup right wall ~5.6-7, to reach a 5.9 arete.FA: John & Fred Put Setember 1989
WF- West Face: 4th/low 5th class 100m (l)Steep rock from top of snow gully. Descend routewith 2 rappels.FA: Mike Walsh 1968
NC- North East Couloir5.9 ~700m (lll)Takes the gully between the North Tower and theNorth West Peak. Climb moderate angled snow tothree steeper rock steps in the upper third. Someexposure to seracs and meltwater depending onseason.FA: Chris Lawrence, Chad Rigby 30 May 1999
ST-Summit Traverse ***5.8 2200m (lll/lV)Most aesthetically done from north end, startingup North Buttress on the North Tower. Descendin to col between Tower and North West Summitwith two rappels. Continue along ridge crestkeeping to the west side until the Main Summit.Several rappels and 5.6-8 pitches are then requiredto reach the South Summit. Descend to South Col.FA: Mike Walsh, Joe Bajan 1973
WB- West Central Buttress5.8-4th class 450m (lll)Approach by traversing under the west face fromfrom the South Col. Climb the prominent buttresson West Face, leading onto the Summit Ridgebetween the Main Summit and the Gendarme.FA: Sandy Briggs, Ignaz Fluri 5 July 1991
Looking up the South Gullies to the SouthSummit from the South Col. The standardroute to the South Summit & on to the SummitTraverse climbs the obvious snow gully toeasier ground on a scree slope above. Mt Colonel Foster’s North East Face in winter as seen from King’s Peak.
North aspect of the North Tower. The rock onthe North Tower is some of the best on themountain and the North Buttress is anoutstanding climb. Care needed withbergschrunds that form as snow in gully thaws.
E- East Face (Culbert Route) ***5.8 1100m (lV)A classic! Set the standard for alpine routes on theIsland & is certainly the Colonel’s must-do-route.Start up a triangular rock formation bounded bygullies, in to lower basin of the Grand CentralCoulior, 4th/low 5th class. Traverse right, outtoward buttress crest (can be wet from snow meltin early season)5.8. Continue direct up buttresstrending left near the top to reach the MainSummit, 4th class-5.7.FA: Richard Culbert, Paul Starr, Fred DouglasAugust 1972
I-Into The Mystic ***5.10a 1200m (V)Probably the best summer route on VancouverIsland! Takes a direct line up the buttress of theNorth East Summit on steep and solid rock. Startwith two 5.7 pitches, depending on snow cover, toa long ledge across the buttress toe. Walk to theleft end of the ledge close to the couloir of theDirrettissima to find a line of weakness in theoverhangs above. Weave 13 steep pitches of 5.8-5.10a past roofs and ribs to 10 easier pitches up tothe North East Summit. Fast descent down gullyon west side from col between NE Summit andthe NW Summit or head along Summit Traversein either direction.FA: Chris Lawrence, Philip Stone, Corrie Wright10-11 June 1989
GC-Grand Central Coulior ***1000m (lll)Follows coulior to Main Summit.FA: Joe Bajan June 1974
Approaches to Mt Colonel Foster & Rambler Pk from Elk River Trail.Photo shows northeast aspect from Elkhorn in May.
bergschrunds
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We found the new trail withoutany diffuculty and boy was itnew- staircases and handrails
and bridges over nothing that were wideenough to drive a car over. Our boots neverseemed to touch ground- at least not until thefunding ran out. From this point the trail wasa mellow single track that led to Brigade Lake,where we stopped for a snack and a swim.After the break we followed bits of flagginginto total bushwack. Our source had also toldus that the trail was being worked on fromboth ends, so we expected at any miniute toemerge from the alder and blueberry brushonto new trail. It never happened. We justkept following bits of tape with the bushwackinterupted now and then by tarns and ponds.In retrospect I now realize this must havebeen a winter ski route when everything isfrozen and flatened under a layer of snow.What else could explain why there wasflagging at each end of the tarns yet nonefollowing around them. But being a hotAugust day we thought the lack of flaggingaround the ponds meant swim and swim wedid! Tromp, pant, sweat, sploosh! I think halfthe distance we covered that day was usingthe breast stroke.
When we finally reached the summitsomeone said "What time is it ?....What ? Fiveo'clock ! ? We're not going back that way !No way !" Fortunately the summit registertold us that the old way down was still thereand would only take us a couple of hoursdown, so we dawdled around and fiddle fartedour time away.
Finally down we went and lost our wayagain and again following some other poorfools flagging tape who is probably still loston that mountain. After bluffing out on theEast end of the hourglass shaped lake we
realized we were on the wrong side of thelake. Back down at the narrows we figuredto swim across. With our packs we sank likestones, so nixed that plan. " Who thought upthat stupid idea ? ! " (blush, blush). So weresigned ourselves to hike all the way backaround by the lake shore. Isn't it amazing howevery time one looses their balance onslippery rocks, providence always providessomething to grab onto....like devils club!
Once around the other side of the lakewe found an old fire ring on a smallpeninsula, stopped for a rest and after gettingthe last of the spines out of our paws, fishedour head lamps out of our packs because now
BENIGHTED
by Peter Rothermel
it was dark. Casting about with our lampsfound a trail with flagging and theconversation went something like this :Curlie,"Look flagging!"....Moe, "Ya so ? We'vebeen following flagging all day and lookwhere it's gotten us !"....Larry, "Ya but there'sa trail!"....Moe, "We know where we are nowon the map. If we go down that trail we mightget really lost!" So it was settled, we weregoing to bivy, hunker down and bunk for thenight (nuk nuk nuk- whoop whoop whoo! ).We gathered up all the fire wood we could,broke out the raingear, sweaters, extra foodand settled in and had a real in-your-face viewof the Milky Way.
After a not too bad night, we woke atfirst light, stoked up the fire and had our lastbagel, candy bar and gorp divided upfourways- thankful we were so piggish aboutpacking lunch. Then we got our gear togetherand headed out.
It turned out the trail we found was theright way out but maybe a good thing wedidn't go down at night as part of the trailwas washed out and finding our way was abit difficult even in daylight. Down we wentand a long hike on the logging road back tothe car. Then off to Port Alberni for burgersand beer- whoops, wrong time of day- I meanphone calls to our significant others, coffeeand breakfast!
The lesson earned? We had rain gear,head lamps, topo map, fire starter, sweatersand extra food for a hot August day hike.Number eleven item I've added to the tenessentials in my day pack is a short piece ofensolite foam (man was that ground hard!).
The lesson learned? Don't take secondor third hand advice from someone that'snever been there before. Ask someone whosehas!
None of us had ever been to Mt. K¡litsa beforebut we had heard from a guy that knew a galthat had a friend that had once been there. Sothe word was that the old route wasovergrown and not used anymore but thatthere was a new trail on the West side built bylaid off forestry workers on a governmentgrant. On this trip were Darlene Lane, TimLane, Tom Carter and myself.
ON MT. KLITSA
WIWIWIWIWI
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During the last two of CaptainCook’s three voyages to thePacific (1772-75, and 1777-79), Cook had in his crew
midshipman George Vancouver. Vancouverwas born in Kings Lynn, England, in 1758,and at age 14 commenced service in the RoyalNavy.
Vancouver’s reliable service with Cookand other naval captains prompted BritishAdmiralty in 1790 to make him captain ofthe exploration vessel Discovery, and sendhim to the Pacific coast of North America tonegotiate with the Spanish over sovereigntyof the area, and to chart the coast. Spanish,Russian and British were interested in theregion because of the lucrative trade in seaotter pelts, and other furs.
One main incident initiatedVancouver’s voyage. In May, 1789 Britishfur traders John Meares and partner JohnEtches were arrested by the Spanish navyin Nootka Sound, a permanent Spanish furtrading base where Meares was trying toestablish his own base. Spanish confiscatedMeares’ ships, his trading post, and his land.This caused anger in Britain, almost leadingto war with Spain.
The resulting Nootka Sound Conventionallowed both Britain and Spain to trade inNootka Sound, and made Spain compensateBritain for the loss of Meares’ ships, buildingsand land in Nootka Sound. Negotiations wereto be completed at Nootka itself by Vancouverand the Spanish representative Don JuanFrancisco de la Bodega y Quadra, in his shipsSantiago and Sonara. While in the area of
Nootka, Vancouver was to map the coastlineespecially around the Strait of Juan de Fuca,and up to Cook Inlet in Alaska; to search fornavigable rivers and waterways that might leadinland to the Great Lakes or to a northwestpassage, and to negotiate with Quadra for afur trading base in Nootka Sound.
On 1 April, 1791 Vancouver embarkedfrom Falmouth, England, in his shipDiscovery accompanied by its supply shipChatham, and arrived on the NorthAmerican coast in April 1792.
Vancouver sailed the coastline, mappingit from Puget Sound northwards. The crewsused their smaller boats to go out from theships and explore the coastline, camping onbeaches while away from the ships.
Mapping was an arduous task. From theFraser River north to Bute Inlet and SeymourNarrows, Vancouver found the area dreary,as his name Desolation Sound suggests. Atthis time, Spanish crews were also mappingand collecting scientific information in thearea and Vancouver found that their presencegave him a comforting sense of civilization.
A long way from civilization, Discoveryran aground in Queen Charlotte Strait.Vancouver’s crew was lucky to refloat her,undamaged, during a high tide. Vancouver’sship was the first European vessel to sailcompletely around Vancouver lsland,
originally called Vancouver and QuadraIsland. In August 1792, after a summer ofmapping, Discovery anchored in FriendlyCove, Nootka Sound, and negotiations beganbetween Vancouver and Quadra. A series ofvisits began between the two men whichdeveloped into a friendship, including 13-gunsalutes, and numerous dining sessionstogether on each others ships.
It is ironic that the land in dispute stillbelonged to the Yuquot Indians, underleadership of Chief Maquinna, who was notinvited to the Spanish/British negotiations.Maquinna was not very concerned about beingleft out of the talks; he wanted Europeans toremain in the area for trade reasons, so he didnot interfere with Spanish or British.
Vancouver did not reach completeagreement with Quadra over the landissue, and sailed south from Nootka onOctober 12, 1792, bound for Hawaii forthe winter. He stopped at San FranciscoBay, then at Monterey. Due to Quadra’s
influence, Spanish commanders at both stopstreated Vancouver well. After wintering inHawaii, Discovery and Chatham sailed backto North America to resume mapping. Whileexploring Behn Canal, beside RevillagigedoIsland, Vancouver and his small boat crewwere almost killed during a skirmish withTlingit Indians. During the skirmish severalsailors were wounded by Tlingit spears, andBritish sailors killed twelve Tlingit withmusket fire. In late September, 1793, after thesecond summer of mapping, Discovery againanchored in Nootka Sound, where Bodega yQuadra had been replaced by Rammon
IN THE WAKE OFIN THE WAKE OFIN THE WAKE OFIN THE WAKE OFIN THE WAKE OFCaptain George Vancouver
by Gregory Ross
A long way from civilization,
Discovery ran aground
Drawing of the “Discovery” on the rocks byWilliam Sykes, taken from Vancouver’s journal.Courtesy Museum at Campbell River
23
Savedra. Vancouver stayed there three daysthen sailed south to California and Hawaii.
Numerous place names in the areaaround Vancouver Island can be traced toVancouver’s voyage. Cape Mudge on thesouthern tip of Quadra Island, was namedafter Vancouvers first lieutenant, ZachariahMudge, who was put ashore there to fetchwater and wood, and to visit the nativevillage. Mudge later became a British Admiral.Cascade Channel(now Cascade Inlet),Chatham sound, Mussel Channel and PoisonCove( both so named because one ofVancouvers crew, John Carter, died on 15June, 1793, on a beach in Mathieson Channel,after eating mussels affected by red tide.Other crew members who ate those musselswere sick for weeks. Carter was buried on abeach named by Vancouver as Carter’s Bay.
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Earlier that June, Vancouver had stoodon a rock beside an Indian village. On July20, Alexander MacKenzie stood on the samerock, after completing the first crossing ofCanada by a European. He had missedVancouver by just six weeks.
After their second winter in Hawaii,Discovery and Chatham sailed north for thethird summer of mapping North Americascoast. Vancouver’s health began to fail, duepartly to cold and rain encountered duringthese years of exploring Canadas west coast.
They finished the survey on August19th. 1794, and had a party on the beach atPort Conclusion, named for the occasion byVancouver. They then sailed south to NootkaSound for further negotiations with theSpanish over the land issue there. Theydropped anchor at Friendly Cove, Nootka, in
September, to find no new dispatches fromSpain or Britain had arrived, and to learn ofQuadra’s death earlier that year. The newSpanish commander at Nootka was JoseManuel de Alava.
Vancouver decided to wait at Nootkauntil mid October for new dispatches fromEngland or Spain. (The Spanish built a forton a small island in Friendly Cove. Traces ofthe fort may still be found today.)
No dispatches arrived. Vancouver andAlava succeeded only in arranging for Spainand Britain to have temporary bases atNootka. Discovery and Chatham headedsouth to Monterey.
The ships headed south after more thanfour years of hard work at sea. They wereworn out ships with tired crews. Theyrestocked at Monterey then sailed via theGalapolos Islands around the Horn to theAtlantic, where, to be safe from Frenchwarships, they joined a convoy of Britishships bound for home. They arrived on theIrish coast on 13th. September, 1795.There,Vancouver travelled overland toLondon, leaving his crew to sail the shipsaround to the Thames. During the entirevoyage Vancouver lost only six men out of atotal complement of 200. One man died fromred tide poisoning, three from drowning, andtwo from illness. Six men lost out of 200during four-and-a-half years at sea: anastonishing feat at a time when death throughscurvy and disease claimed more seamenslives than anything else, including war.
Vancouver spent the last three years ofhis life in England, editing and publishing AVoyage of Discovery, and trying to avoidseveral enemies who criticized him(and inone case attacked him physically in public)for his performance as a captain and explorer.He died on 12th.May, 1798, aged 40.
Drawing of Native village at Bute Inlet byWilliam Sykes, from Vancouver’s journal.Courtesy Museum at Campbell River
24
Two hundred years and sixmonths after Vancouver’sdeath I was looking to sea
kayak in places around Vancouver Island; theregion in which he had mapped, sailed, andanchored. Until that point I had never beenin a sea kayak.
In November 1998 I hitch-hiked north,from Nanaimo, along Vancouver IslandHighway 19 towards Campbell River whereI believed I would be able to hire a kayak andexperience the sport. I was keen to sea kayak---to try an outdoor activity different fromhiking in the mountains and hiking alonghighways. I had spent many years trampingNew Zealand and Canadian alpine trails, witha pack on my back. I wanted to use differentmuscles---to see wilderness from a differentangle.
Arriving in Campbell River I walkedalong the waterfront in search of a kayak,information or both. A quick chat with staffat the BC Ferries terminal saw me hop on tothe ferry to Quadra Island where I met Ben.Ben happened to own a kayak and have aspare bunk in his home, and happened to likeme enough to invite me to use both kayakand said bunk.
Anticipating my trip next day, I driftedto sleep gratefully that night, in my warmsleeping bag, in my new friends’ home.
Daybreak saw me up and packingdrybags with equipment and food. We loadedthe kayak and gear into the hatchback ofBen's car and drove to the beach. A few moreinstructions from Ben on how to use thekayak, spray shield, lifejacket, and pump;then I was away, taken by the ocean’s magicinto a new world. Hey, phenomenal.
Peering down I could see 20 feet into themarine world below---third dimension, likeflying--- and I could see the forest andmountain world around me. This wasadventure. I paddled.
I was not used to paddling. I knew myarms would become sore, but I told myself Icould rest, and take things slowly to allowmy arm and chest muscles to adapt. The thrillof sea kayaking drowned any muscle pain Ihad that day. The water was calm, the skywas sunny, I would paddle forever.
I followed the coastline from Heriot Baynortheast to Village Bay, then north intoHoskyn Channel, exploring every island andtiny bay I could. Eagles, seals, forest, kelp,always something to attract my attention.
Dawn next morning saw me up, packed,then paddling. Paddling, drifting, exploringfrom the comfort of the kayak. An old rustedanchor chain wedged between two rockoutcrops. One of Captain Quadra’s? Maybeone of Vancouver's? Perhaps from a whaleror fur trader 150 years ago. Paddle back for acloser look. Fascinating.
Here is history. Here is whereVancouver’s and Spanish ships explored andtraded over 200 years ago.
I paddled south back to Village Bay,exploring rafts of oysters, salmon ranches,and streams-many streams of purefreshwater. I chatted to people, and absorbedthe adventure. Patches of mist lingered amongthe islands.
By early evening I was near the rivermouth in Village Bay, and ready to stop. Ifound a suitable site for my tent beside theruins of a cabin on the north shore of the bay,and set up camp. Again I took the precautionof dragging the kayak well up onto the rockso it would be near the tent, and well abovehigh-tide line. I spent the dusk watching theocean and two other kayakers camped on thebeach. As I drifted to sleep, and off and onduring the night, I heard a seal feeding among
That evening, I chatted with Ben and hiswife about sea kayaking, about QuadraIsland, and about ocean adventure.
We all agreed that the ocean is the sameas the mountains: both are wilderness whichwe must respect in all their facets to ensurehappy adventures for ourselves. The weather,the water, the air, insects, mammals, fish,birds, reptiles, plants, and of course the needsof other humans, must all be respected in anywilderness.
Ben instructed me how to use his kayak,gave me a detailed map of Quadra andsurrounding islands, and showed me on themap numerous spots worth visiting. I planneda four-to-five day trip, starting from nearHeriot Bay visiting various spots on Quadraand on the nearby islands, camping in my tenton the coastline each night. Later that eveningI strolled down to the coast near Ben’s home,and studied the clear water and boulderyshore. A porpoise snorted in the quiet eveningas it surfaced two hundred meters offshore.This adventure had come together perfectly,and I felt fortunate.
Near dusk I discovered an abandonedcabin perched right at Quadra’s waters edge.I explored it, then paddled back south a fewhundred meters to where a stream emptiedinto the ocean, and to where there was a flatsite for my tent on a granite knob 20 feetabove the high tide line. There I pitched mytent and fly, and dragged the 65-pound kayakup onto the knob for safe keeping during thenight.
My campsite was a few miles south ofSurge Narrows, famous for its powerful tidalflows. As dark fell I sat beside my tentwatching the tide flow past like a powerfulriver. The power reminded me of snowavalanches in the mountains. No humandefenses can withstand such powers. Tidalflows around Campbell River, Quadra, andsurrounding islands are among the strongeston earth.
The owls hooted, a seal fished justoffshore, a few boats headed home throughthe channel, the stars twinkled, and thisadventurer crawled into his tent then into hissleeping bag and drifted to sleep.
the school of salmon which had gathered atthe river mouth prior to spawning. Thissalmon food chain cylce has existed since thebeggining of time. There are many parts to it,including trees that have evolved the way theyhave due to millenia of slamon fertilizer.
I arose at daybreak, shivering in theclammy air. Mist blanketed the bay. I studiedmy map. Would I be able to find the shortway to Breton Island, where I planned tocamp that night? I assumed the mist wouldlift later in the day. I packed camp, carriedthe kayak back to the water, packed my bagsinto the forward and aft holds, slipped on mylifejacket, slipped into the seat, then glidedonto the ocean.
Free of land, free of walking, into cleanair, in clean water where I could see down20 to 30 feet---fish, plants, starfishall colours,all shapes, many sizes and pink jellyfish.
From the start of the trip I had paddledover patches of pink jellyfish, now here I sawthem in vast clouds, especially when I paddledclose to the shore. Some were the size ofmelons, some were the size of cherries; all
Paddling among the Breton Islands.Wild Isle File Photo.
25
THREEQUARDA ISLAND
HAIKU
by Gregory Ross
Layered blues dusk, rocks.Spruce, ocean, mountains, driftwood.Moon, silence, walk home.
Wind wears shore flotsam;People wander, history;Gusts inspired coast.
Old trees tower, peace;Silent forest clings to you;Bugs buzz; walk, absorb.
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pulsed gracefully through the water, at levelsranging from surface to ten feet down ordeeper, performing a vast underwater ballet.Trillions of them; underwater ballet.
I clung to the coastline so I wouldntbecome lost in the mist. I paddled my waysouth, spotting the odd seal surfacing in theocean around me. Later that morning, duringa conversation with an oyster farmer, Ilearned that a gale had been forecast for thatnight in the area. The farmer suggested thatI might be wise to forget about camping onBreton Island, and to head instead for Heriot
Bay, where I could not be caught by a storm.I paddled south and explored the seal colonyat the south end of Breton Island.
After circumnavigating and landing onBreton Island, I took the oyster farmer’sadvice and camped the night in the HeriotBay Inn campground, snatching a showerwhile there. I phoned Ben and arranged forhim to pick me up next afternoon from thelaunching site. Then, comfortably ensconcedin my sleeping bag, under tent and fly, Iawaited the storm.
There was no storm; not even a wind.Only a damp, cold sea mist which swallowedthe campground.
Next morning I arose at dawn, andpaddled through mist towards the south endof Read Island. I explored part of the island,landed here and there, and enjoyed the day;then returned to the launch beach on Quadra,to meet my waiting host, Ben.
I was home, safe, and had enjoyedvisiting Read because I hadn’t been therebefore. I wanted to visit a new island, andthat's what I had done. I had achieved theaim of the trip: to satisfy my sea kayak urge,and to follow in Vancouver’s footsteps.
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Drawing of Native village, Cape Mudge byWilliam Sykes, from Vancouver’s journal.Courtesy Museum at Campbell River
Cape Mudge, Quadra IslandWild Isle File Photo.
WIWIWIWIWI
26
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Sept 9-10 Disabled Paddlers Symp - CAMP SQUAMISH 604-597-1122
Sept 15-17 TAPS Sea Kayak Symp.-PORT TOWNSEND WA 888-732-8275
Sept 16-18 Likely Paddle Fest -QUESNEL- Mark 250-398-7873
Sept 16-17 Kelowna Dragon Boat Fest KELOWNA- Paul 250-868-1136
Sept 24 Rivers Day Outdoor Rec Council 604-737-3058
Sept 30 Malasapina Clg Surf Meet - TOFINO- Don 250-758-7460
Oct 7 Cranberry Canoe Regatta- FT LANGLEY- Tim 888-9012
Oct 21 Bridges Race - VICTORIA - Cam 250-598-6855
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