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Page 1: Table Of Contents - oldtimewisdom.com€¦ · 4.1.1 Grandma’s recipe 49 4.1.2 Minty pickled eggplant 50 4.1.3 Pickled tomatoes 51 4.1.4 Pickled minty carrots 51 4.1.5 Pickled grapes
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Table Of Contents

Prepping Like A Pro 12 I. Storage Spaces 14

II. Long-Term Preservation Methods and Techniques 16

1. Dehydration 16

1.1 How to dehydrate vegetables 18

1.1.1 Green beans 18

1.1.2 Carrots 21 1.1.3 Broccoli 23 1.1.4 Spinach 24 1.1.5 Asparagus 26 1.1.6 Potatoes 28 1.1.7 Tomatoes 29

1.2 How to dehydrate fruits 31 1.2.1 Apples 31 1.2.2 Bananas 33 1.2.3 Cherries 34 1.2.4 Watermelon 35 1.2.5 Oranges, lemons and limes 36 2. Freeze-drying 37 2.1 Recipes using freeze-dried fruits and vegetables 40 2.1.1 Basic chicken soup 41 2.1.2 Chicken salad with apples 41 2.1.3 Beans and pasta soup 42

2.1.4 Rice pilaf (Southwest style) 42

2.1.5 Blueberry pancakes 43

3. Oxygen-Absorbing Capsules 44

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4. Pickling 46

4.1 Pickle recipes 49

4.1.1 Grandma’s recipe 49

4.1.2 Minty pickled eggplant 50

4.1.3 Pickled tomatoes 51

4.1.4 Pickled minty carrots 51

4.1.5 Pickled grapes 52

5. Canning 53

6. Homemade alcohol 56

6.1 Wine recipes 59

6.1.1 Basic red wine 59

6.1.2 Peach wine 60

6.1.3 Dry figs wine 61

6.1.4 Pear wine 62

6.1.5 Rose petal wine 62

How To Store Eggs For Long Term 64

Introduction 65

How to store fresh eggs 66

Storing fresh eggs at room temperature 67

Storing fresh eggs at low temperature 68

How to determine whether an egg is still fresh or not 70

How to pickle eggs 71

How to dehydrate eggs 75

How to store eggs in mineral oil 78

Getting Ready For Winter 82

Introduction 83

Vegetables and fruits – the basics 84

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Harvesting 84

Selectiveness 85

Cleanliness 86

Moisture 86

Temperature and humidity levels 87

Storage facilities 89

The root cellar 89

The cold room (non-basement) 90

The buried container 91

The pit 92

The tile storage space 93

The makeshift cellars 95

Vegetables 96

Potatoes 96

Root vegetables 96

Garlic and onions 97

Cabbages 98

Tomatoes 99

Fruits 100

Apples and pears 100

Grapes 100

Citrus fruits 101

Growing Mushrooms With Minimal Costs 103

Chapter 1: General considerations 105

Short history 105

Benefits of mushroom cultivation 106

Morphology of mushrooms 109

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Nutrition 112

Chemical composition and nutritional value 114

Medicinal value 122

Proper reasons for mushroom cultivation 125

Mushrooms that can be grown with minimal costs 126

Chapter 2: Classic mushroom production 127

2.1 Brief history of mycelium production 127

2.2 Obtaining mycelium from spores 128

2.3 Obtaining mycelium from tissue clone 132

2.3.1.1 Recipes for crop environment 134

2.3.1.2 Preparation 138

2.3.1.3 Preservation of crop environments 140

2.3.1.4 Preparing selected mushrooms for clone extraction 140

2.3.1.5 Inoculation in boxes without laminar flow currents 142

2.3.2.1 Preparing recipients for working 151

2.3.2.2 The support for mycelium production 151

2.3.2.3 Washing the cereals 153

2.3.2.4 Boiling the cereals 154

2.3.2.5 Support homogenization with amendments 154

2.3.2.6 Filling the recipients 156

2.3.2.7 Support sterilization 156

2.3.2.8 Inoculation 157

2.3.2.9 Mycelium incubation or maintaining a constant temperature 157

2.3.2.10 Storage and refrigeration 158

2.3.2.11 The occurrence of contaminants 160

Chapter 3: Growing technology of Agaricus bisporus mushroom culture 162

3.1 Agaricus bisporus champignon or manure mushroom 162

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3.1.1 Preparing the compost 162

3.1.2 Calculation of compost needs 164

3.1.3 Compost recipes 165

3.1.4 Required space for compost preparation 166

3.1.5 Preparation of classic compost 167

3.1.6 Placing the compost, seeding and covering 171

3.1.7 Microclimate conditions during the incubation 174

3.1.8 The role and main components of the covering mixture 175

3.1.9 Microclimate conditions, care works and harvesting 180

3.1.10 Preventing attacks of saprophytic fungi and pests 189

3.2 Growing culture technology of thermophile mushrooms 198

3.2.1 Morphological characteristics 198

3.2.2 Microclimate requirements 199

3.2.3 Growing culture technology 199

3.3 Growing mushrooms in open, unprotected area 203

3.3.1 The first method of sowing mycelium takes place in ground holes 204

3.3.2 The first method of sowing mycelium takes place in ditches 205

3.4 Agaricus Brasiliensis 205

3.4.1 Morphological characteristics 207

3.4.2 Growing conditions 208

3.4.3 Preparing the compost 208

3.4.4 Setting up crop and microclimate conditions 209

Chapter 4: Culture technology of Pleurotus spp. in classical system 210

4.1 Pleurotus ostreatus - morphology and importance 210

4.2 Culture technology in classical system 215

4.3 Areas used in classical culture system 216

4.4 Setting up the culture area 217

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4.4.1 Ventilation system 217

4.4.2 Shelves placement 220

4.4.3 Disinfecting the culture area 221

4.5 Crop substrate 221

The Lost Art Of Preserving Food Off-Grid 226

Facts about smoking 228

How the chemical components in the meat affect the smoke 230

Smoke-induced flavour 230

Smoke-induced colo 230

Making the smoke 231

The smoking procedure 232

The 2 main smoking methods 234

Hot smoking 234

Cold smoking 235

Curing the meat 236

Dry Curing 236

Wet Curing 240

Game meat preservation 244

Smoked deer jerky 244

Hot pickled cured jerky 244

Dry meat 245

Capicola 245

Bresaola 246

Pancetta (homemade bacon) 247

Prosciutto 248

Jerky 249

Pemmican 251

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Biltong 253

Sausages 255

Hams 257

Homemade curing mix 257

Smoked fish 260

Smoked oysters 262

Smoked chicken 263

Dairy Products – Long-Term Safe Storage 266

Introduction 267

Frozen milk 268

Dehydrated milk 269

Dehydrated yogurt 272

Homemade yogurt 273

Refrigerated cheese 278

Dehydrated hard cheese 280

Dehydrated soft cheese 282

Butter 283

Tips and tricks for butter storage 284

The Mushroom Cookbook 286

Introduction 287

Health benefits of mushrooms 287

Cholesterol levels 288

Breast cancer and prostate cancer 289

Diabetes and bone health 290

Nutrient absorption 290

Immune system strength 291

Blood pressure 291

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Copper and selenium content 292

Weight loss 293

A few words of caution 293

Mushroom Manchurian recipe 295

Mushroom Biryani recipe 298

Kadai mushroom recipe 301

Methi mushroom restaurant-style recipe 305

Chili mushroom recipe 308

Mushroom tikka recipe 311

Dhingri dolma recipe 314

Mushroom pulao recipe 317

Goan mushroom vindaloo recipe 320

Mushroom cheese omelet recipe 322

How To Preserve And Store Mushrooms 325

Introduction 326

What is a mushroom? 326

Mushroom morphology 327

Where and when mushrooms grow 328

Can mushrooms be preserved or stored? 328

Chapter 1: 4 ways to preserve fresh mushrooms 329

Freezing cooked mushrooms 329

Blanching and freezing mushrooms 331

Freezing uncooked Morel or Morel-type mushrooms 332

Duxelles 333

Chapter 2: How to freeze fresh mushrooms for preservation 332

The step-by-step process of freezing white button mushrooms 334

The white mushroom blanching process 337

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How to tell when white mushrooms are bad 338

The process of freezing oyster mushrooms 338

Chapter 3: How to store mushrooms 342

Cleaning 342

Cooking 344

Dehydrating mushrooms 345

Oven drying 345

Salting 347

Powdering 348

Pickling 348

Packed in oil 349

Chapter 4: Types of mushrooms 350

White mushrooms 350

Portobello 351

Chanterelle 351

Morels 352

Truffles 352

Shitake 353

Enoki 353

Oyster 354

Crimini 354

Maitake 355

Nutrition 355

Facts regarding toxic mushrooms 356

False morels 356

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PREPPING LIKE A PRO

STORING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES OVER LONG

PERIODS OF TIME

When it comes to prepping issues and surviving over long periods of

time, people have a tendency to automatically picture guns, hunters, and

huge trucks full of survivors holding the American flag, perhaps while

fighting off wave after wave of brain-eating zombies—and winning too!

Sure, there is an uncontestable level of excitement surrounding the

preppers/survivalists, but truth be told, making it out alive in a serious

SHTF situation requires so much more than a huge arsenal and being a

good shot.

Preparedness is the key issue, and it means you’ll need to be ready for

any situation that could potentially go wrong. Your personal protection is

important, of course, but even more important (arguably) is making

provisions. Ideally, you’ll need to place in storage all sorts of foods in

order to maintain a balanced diet and keep yourself healthy.

Meat should not be much of an issue. You can store meat too, but

considering hunting’s an option, you can always go out hunting or setting

traps, and there you have it: Fresh meat’s back on the menu. But when it

comes to fruits and veggies, things differ a lot.

Having your own personal garden is fun and practical at the same time,

but that doesn’t change the fact that your crops will need to be safely

preserved over winter or out of reach of possible thieves.

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I. Storage Spaces

The first thing you’ll need to figure out before undergoing any other

preparations for storing fruits and vegetables is to figure out where

you’re going to deposit everything that will go into storage. Don’t do

anything before deciding on a suitable storage place, as you risk ending

up with a lot of ready-for-storage food and no place to store it. Before

picking a spot, it’s very important to be aware of what a storage place

should be all about. First of all, it should be a cool and dry place with as

little humidity as possible. Fruits especially tend to be very pretentious

when it comes to storage spaces, as they tend to eliminate certain gases

that can cause them to spoil very rapidly. So spread them out if you

must, and secure their position so they don’t necessarily touch each

other.

Another important factor to consider is room temperature. Ideally, the

room temperature in your storage space should be somewhere between

40–60°F. Keeping the temperature constant could result in headaches,

especially if you don’t have a proper storage space, which could mean

you’ll need to move the stored food around the house, from one cool

place to the next. Do it quickly, however, as high variations of

temperature could mean a significant loss of nutrients in the stored food.

Containers are also a big deal when it comes to storing fruits and

vegetables. They should be airtight so that whatever it is you have in

storage doesn’t spoil and is also light-tight (if possible); light is also a

factor that can cause irreparable damage to your stocks. All sorts of

containers are available on the market (cans, plastic containers, jars,

etc.); it’s just a matter of what suits your needs best, depending on the

preservation method you go for. If you’ll be storing more than one item at

a time, it would be best to keep different food items separately, as some

tend to rot faster than others. Keeping them separate will ensure that the

more quickly rotting ones won’t spoil the others that are naturally more

resistant.

A proper storage facility is by far the best option. Whether you build

one from scratch or you improvise one in the tool shed or the basement,

it shouldn’t matter. As long as you respect the basic steps of food

preservation and you spare no expense in order to keep the place cool,

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dry, and dark enough, you’ll have no problems along the way. But if you

simply can’t afford one, you can also improvise as long as you do not

break the rules of the cool/dry/dark place.

If the situation gets “desperate” and you need a place to deposit all of

your stored food, there are many places around the house that will do

temporarily. These places, however, should serve as a transition

solution as they might not entirely fulfill the conditions required for proper

storage. But if they do, there shouldn’t be a problem. These are the best

spots around the house where you can store food supplies:

There is plenty of space you can create behind the furniture just

by pulling out the beds, couches, cupboards, etc. The empty space

can be filled with the stored food, but you’ll need to cover it with a

blanket or fabric to ensure a dark and dry environment.

The empty space under the bed should be one of the main

choices to consider. Things rarely go there, and food will be easy

to reach and maneuver. You can also devise a simple and

practical food rotation system by first lining out the perimeter. Once

the row gets full, depositing a can at one end will push out an extra

one at the other. This will make it easy for you to keep track of the

amount stored. Arial

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II. Long-Term Preservation Methods and

Techniques

Once you have decided on your storage space, the next step to take is

to start making provisions. So you’ll need to know all about the long-term

preservation methods and techniques if you want your food to stay fresh

and nutritious for as long as possible. Unfortunately, not all food

products have a long enough shelf life, but for most, there are ways to

prolong their shelf life. Here are the best methods that will keep your

stored food fresh for long periods of time.

1. Dehydration

Dehydrated food is probably the most available option for long-term

storage of food that the market has to offer. And because the process

itself isn’t as expensive as its counterparts, it’s also the most

inexpensive long-term survival food you can buy; this is extremely

convenient, especially for those on a tight budget. The average shelf-life

of dehydrated products can be as high as 25 years on average as the

food products lose about 90–95% of their water content during the

dehydration process. As a result of the constant exposure to hot air that

is being circulated (in order to induce dehydration), certain nutrients will

break down. So the nutritional value of certain fruits and vegetables will

be partially reduced. As the water is forced out of the fruits and

vegetables, they will become leathery and shriveled in appearance.

They are tougher to chew, and those of you out there who just don’t

have the teeth for it, don’t worry. Dehydration can be a reversible

process (partially at least). Just soak the dehydrated products in cold

water for as long as it takes; once they start recovering their original

aspect, you can take them out and eat them.

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Dehydrated food is not only an industrial method. You can easily

dehydrate your own fruits or vegetables at home simply by exposing

them to sunlight (in a controlled environment), or you can purchase

special food dehydrators, which are oven-like contraptions that will

dehydrate anything in a matter of minutes or hours. Generally speaking,

dehydrated food will last for long periods of time. Such products rarely

make a meal on their own, but they can be combined with or used as

ingredients for many tasty dishes. Most of them also lack seasoning, so

when cooking with dehydrated ingredients, remember to always add that

extra pinch of salt (or whatever else) to improve the taste. If you’re not a

great DIY-er and you’re not really keen on dehydrating the food yourself,

you can also turn to the already dehydrated products available on the

market. But no matter how you obtain your dried food, there are some

strict rules to follow to ensure the maximum quality for the longest

amount of time:

a) Storing dry food will require a cool, dry, and dark place.

Temperature plays a key role, so storage period should be

considered in direct correlation to the temperature of your storage

space: The higher the temperature, the shorter the storage period

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should be. The optimum storage life for fruits and vegetables

shouldn’t be longer than 12 months (also consider the fact that

vegetables have a 50% shorter shelf life than fruits). The best

temperature for a 12-month period is about 60°F. If the

temperature exceeds the that, you should gradually reduce the

storage period. Stored food should be checked regularly as

moisture tends to build up, no matter how dry you might think your

spot is. So if you want to avoid spoiled food, take a look at your

storage space periodically.

b) Packaging is also an important part of storing dried food. The

containers used play a vital role, and you should always go for

jars, boxes, or cans that have air-tight lids or that are made from

materials that are moisture resistant. Plastic bags should only be

considered if you are 100% sure you don’t have an insect or

rodent problem around your storage facility, as the bags don’t offer

any resistance towards such pests.

1.1 How to dehydrate vegetables

1.1.1 Green beans

Beans are very versatile vegetables, especially when it comes to

dehydrating them at home. There are many paths you can take in your

journey to achieving the perfect dehydrated beans, so you can’t

complain that this will be a dull and repetitive task. The green bean-

drying method that requires the least amount of equipment is the

sunlight drying method. You only need a big enough tray (or several

trays), some cloth netting, and a few bricks to build a platform for the

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trays to sit on. Carefully place the beans in the tray (with enough

distance between them), and place the cloth net on top of everything.

The mesh of the cloth shouldn’t be bigger than one inch, as it will need

to keep insects and all sorts of debris away from your drying green

beans. Next, you’ll need to make a platform out of the bricks (or anything

else really) and arrange them in such a way that air can easily circulate

underneath. After you’ve placed the trays in the sunlight, make sure to

come back and check on their progress two times a day and stir them

with your fingers so they’ll dry on all sides. If the nights in your area tend

to get moist, you can bring the trays inside and take them out again in

the morning. Once the pods are hard enough and they break evenly

when you snap them in half, you’ve accomplished your mission.

If you don’t live in a sunny-enough area, don’t worry. The oven drying

method works just as well, but it’ll require a bit more attention on your

part. Place the tray of beans of any sort (wax, green, snap, string) in the

oven, and keep the temperature constant at 120°F for about 60 minutes.

After the 60 minutes are up, you must increase the temperature to 140°F

until the beans are almost dried. Once this happens, lower the

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temperature to 125°F. This will prevent the beans from cooking

prematurely. Let them sit at 125°F until they’re done.

Another practical and efficient method for drying green beans is the

“hang them out to dry” method. The name of the method says it all;

it’s all about hanging the pods out to dry. Drying the beans via this

method requires only a sewing needle and some thread. Place the

thread in the needle, and pierce each pod above its center. After you’ve

tied the string, spread the pods apart so there are at least two inches in

between them. They should be hung in a dark room that is dry and well

aired. You’ll need to check on the beans once a day, and that’s about it.

No real effort is required from you for the “hang them out to dry” method,

but the process can be a bit slow (two to three weeks).

Recipe: Black bean/espresso

chili

Dried beans are excellent for

cooking and will do justice to

many recipes. Personally, I like

black bean/espresso chili a lot,

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and I’ll share the recipe with you. You’ll need to have the following:

1/8 cup of instant espresso powder (yes, you read that right)

1 /4 cup of olive oil

1/8 cup of chili powder

1/4 teaspoon chipotle chili powder (for extra flavor)

1/8 cup of ground cumin

1½ tablespoons of salt

3 tablespoons of honey

1 cup of water

6 cups of pre-cooked black beans

3 chopped onions

3 minced garlic cloves (large)

some ground cinnamon

28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes

This is enough for about four portions, so keep that in mind before

inviting too many people for lunch. For starters, preheat a large-enough

pot at medium heat, and add the onions. Stir them gently for about 7

minutes. Next, throw into the mixture the 1/8 cup of chili powder and the

espresso power, and let it cook for one minute more. Once the minute is

up, add the honey, garlic, and tomatoes, and bring everything to a

simmer. When the simmering begins, bring the heat down to medium-

low, put the lid on, and let it simmer for 25–30 minutes. Add the cup of

water, let it sit for another minute, and then add the chipotle chili powder,

beans, cinnamon, and salt. Increase the heat until you bring everything

to a boil. Once the boiling starts, reduce the heat again, and stir

everything until the mixture starts to thicken (about 15–25 minutes).

1.1.2 Carrots

Carrots are more easily dehydrated with a dehydrator machine. The first

thing to do is to peel the carrots and remove the extremities (the tips and

the tops). Once they’re nice and clean, you must chop them up into 1/4-

inch slices. In order to maintain the nutritional value of the carrot and

prevent the loss of vitamins and minerals, you must steam blanch the

carrot slices. Steam blanching will also kill harmful bacteria and speed

up the dehydration time. This is done by placing the carrot slices in hot

boiling water for a period of –four to five minutes. After you’ve placed

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them in the water, put the lid on the pot. When you take the carrot slices

out, they should still be hard. If they’re soft to the touch, you overdid the

procedure.

After the five minutes of steam blanching are up, take out the carrots

and dip them in cold water; they’ll cool immediately. After they’re cool

enough, place them carefully in the dehydrator, and adjust the setting to

about 120–130°F. In 10–12 hours they should be done. Once they’ve

shriveled, you can take them out, store them in a glass jar preferably,

and place the jar in your designated storage space. If you decided to

shred your carrots instead of chopping them into slices, nothing really

changes except for the fact that you can also keep these in an eco-

friendly Ziploc bag after the dehydration process is finished.

Recipe: Carrot chips

There’s a really nice array of

choices when it comes to serving

dry carrots, but in my opinion, the

best one is the carrot chips, which

is nothing more than an improved

dehydration method. You’ll need

carrot slices, a pinch of salt (according to taste), melted coconut oil, and

a pinch of cinnamon. Throw everything together in a bowl, and mix

gently with your fingers. After mixing for one to two minutes, place the

carrot slices into the dehydrator and dry at 120°F for about 10–11 hours.

Once they’re done, take them out and cool them at room temperature.

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When cooled, they can be stored in a jar or any other sort of airtight

container.

1.1.3 Broccoli

Broccoli might not be a favorite among teens when it comes to

vegetables, but its nutritional value is uncontestable. So having it in your

pantry makes it an asset nonetheless. Wash the broccoli, and then place

it in salt water for about 10–12 minutes. This will clear any impurities that

are left and will also remove insect eggs. Next, cut the florets into

smaller pieces (half-inch bouquets will do). The stalk can also be

dehydrated, so don’t throw it away. Cut half an inch out from the bottom

and peel it; discard the remaining outer layer. You can cut the stalk

lengthwise into two to four separate pieces. Each section should be

again cut lengthwise into five rows. Steam the broccoli for about eight

minutes. Once the steaming process is done, take them out and spread

them carefully onto a non-stick sheet in the tray of the dehydrator. Keep

them at 130°F for about seven hours. Take them out and place them in

storage in plastic or glass jars.

Recipe: Broccoli soup

A really nice dish you can make

for a family of four is broccoli

soup. It’s easy to make, and it

shouldn’t take you longer than

30 minutes provided you have

any experience at all in the

kitchen. In order to make the

broccoli soup, you’ll need the

following ingredients:

3 cups of chopped broccoli

a pinch of salt (according to taste)

half a bell pepper (chopped)

1 potato (chopped)

1 onion (chopped)

a sprig of cilantro

3 cups of chicken or vegetable stock

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3 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon white flour

1 tablespoon pepper powder

2½ tablespoons fresh cream

½ tablespoon cumin powder

Firstly, heat the olive oil in a pot, and add the garlic, chopped onions,

broccoli, potato, bell pepper, and cilantro. Stir gently for 2–3 minutes.

Once the sauté is done, add the flour to the mix, and let it fry for one

more minute. Add a cup of chicken or vegetable stock, and cook for 10

minutes. After the 10 minutes are up, turn off the stove and let the

mixture cool. Once it’s cooled, blend it. Return the homogenous mixture

back to the pot, and add the remaining 2 cups of stock. After you’ve

turned the heat back up, add the salt, cumin, and pepper. After 5

minutes, last but not least, add the cream, and there you have it: broccoli

soup!

1.1.4 Spinach

Spinach, just like broccoli, is an extremely beneficial vegetable and

works wonders for the blood flow and the digestive system. It also has a

very distinct flavor, which makes it perfect for all sorts of soups, stews,

and even salads. Dehydrating spinach via a dehydrator will be a bit

tricky as spinach leaves are quite large and will take up a lot of space.

You’ll just need to make more of an effort and dehydrate two or three

times the normal quantity you would other vegetables. But if you don’t

have the time or the will, you can always go for a smaller amount or

simply fold the spinach leaves in two (although this is not

recommended). Place the spinach leaves on the dehydrator tray, set the

temperature at about 120°F, and let them sit for about two to two and a

half hours.

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During this time, the leaves will shrivel and shrink enough for you to

spread them out even more. Place a mash sheet over the leaves, and

put them back in the dehydrator for approximately two more hours. Once

they’re done, you can either grind them into a fine powder or store them

in jars that you can keep in your storage space.

Recipe: Spinach quiche

It’s a great recipe, fairly easy to make,

tasty, and nutritious. The necessary

ingredients are as follows:

10 ounces of dried spinach

(chopped)

8 ounces of shredded cheese

(preferably cheddar)

6 ounces of herb and garlic

feta (crumbled)

1 small onion (chopped)

2–3 cloves of garlic (chopped)

½ cup butter

1 can of mushrooms (4.5 ounces, drained)

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4 eggs (beaten)

1 cup of milk

salt and pepper (according to taste).

First and foremost, preheat the oven to 375°F. Turn on the stove, take

out a skillet, and melt the butter over medium heat. Throw the garlic and

onion into the mix, and sauté for about 5–7 minutes, or for as long as it

takes for the mixture to turn light brown. Next, add the spinach, feta,

shredded cheese, and mushrooms, and start stirring. Let it cook for a

couple of minutes, and then add the mixture into the pie crust. In a bowl,

mix together the eggs and milk, and add salt and pepper to enhance the

taste. Pour the egg and milk mixture into the pie, and let it combine with

the spinach mixture. Place the pie in the preheated oven, and sprinkle

the remaining cheese on top of the pie. Cook for 30–40 minutes.

1.1.5 Asparagus

Asparagus is an all-purpose

vegetable and is a must-have for

serious preppers. It has a large

variety of vitamins and nutritious

substances, plus it does very well in

storage conditions. Firstly, you’ll need

to cut the asparagus into small pieces (about 1–1.5 inches long). Briefly

blanch the asparagus cuts in boiling water (for about one to two minutes)

so that it will retain its nutritional properties. After the blanching is done,

place the asparagus in the tray of your dehydrator. You don’t need to

spread it out, as asparagus will dehydrate easily. There is no strict

temperature requirement either; just set you dehydrator to the

“vegetable” setting, and turn it on. The process isn’t complicated at all;

just let the asparagus sit until it’s done. It shouldn’t take longer than five

hours, but just to play it safe, turn off the dehydrator and check it after

three hours. Based on its condition, decide for how much longer you’ll

keep the asparagus in the dehydrator. After it’s done, apply the standard

procedure for most vegetables: Take it out and let it cool at room

temperature a bit. Once it’s cool, place it in glass jars or plastic

containers. For maximum efficiency, you can also add oxygen-absorbing

packs in the containers.

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Recipe: Scalloped asparagus

There are plenty of things you can

use dried asparagus for, but one

of the tastiest (by far) is scalloped

asparagus. In order to make this

delicious recipe, you will need the

following:

1 cup dried asparagus

(torn into small pieces)

1 cup water

1 cup milk

¼ cup grated cheese

3 tablespoons flour

3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon dried pimiento

1 tablespoon salt

2 sliced hardboiled eggs.

If your list is complete, you can get started. Start by boiling water in a

pan. Add the pimiento and dried asparagus, stir for a couple of minutes,

and then remove the pan from the heat; let it cool for about 25–30

minutes. Drain and save the cooking liquid. Preheat the oven to 350°F,

and grease a casserole dish. The pan with the asparagus and pimiento

should be returned to the heat and simmer until tender (about 10–20

minutes). Add the cup of milk to the resulting cooking liquid. Place

another pan on the stove, in which you’ll melt the butter; add the flour

and salt. Pour the milk and liquid mixture in the second pan while

continuously stirring. Turn the heat low, and continue stirring until the

mixture becomes smooth and thick. Throw in the egg slices and drained

vegetables, and keep on stirring. When everything is homogenized

(about one minute), take the resulting mixture and pour it in the

casserole. Sprinkle it with grated cheese, and bake until it gets slightly

brown (approximately 30–40 minutes).

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1.1.6 Potatoes

Going for long periods of time without potatoes (in some form or

another) would be unimaginable for most preppers. So get your hands

on as many potatoes as you can, and get to work! First, you must wash

and slice the potatoes into 1/8-inch slices. You can peel them if you like,

but it’s recommended not to as the peel also retains a certain number of

minerals and nutrients. Bring a large enough pot of salted water to a boil.

Place the potato slices in a vegetable basket, and dip them in the water;

from the second the water starts boiling again, you have about 7 minutes

at your disposal to fill a large enough container with ice water. After the

blanching is done (the 7 minutes are up), take out the basket and place

them immediately in the ice water; let them sit for 15 minutes. Next,

spread the slices on a towel, and blot them dry.

If you’re going to use a dehydrator, spray the racks or trays with

vegetable oil, and carefully place the potato slices so they’re not

touching each other. If the racks are vented, you won’t have to stop the

process to turn the slices over. The power and timer should be set

according to the manufacturer’s instructions. However, if you won’t be

using a dehydrator, the best option you have is to use Teflon cookie

sheets. Place them on the oven racks, and spread the potato slices so

they’re not touching each other; once they’re set, turn on the oven to its

lowest setting. Keep the oven door slightly opened so that the moisture

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can escape. Some slices will dry faster than others, so check the status

constantly (every 15 minutes) to ensure everything is going well. Once

they start getting crispy, you can take them out and let them cool at

room temperature. Once cooled, you can store them in jars or plastic

bags or containers.

Recipe: Scalloped Potatoes

There is a very good scalloped potato mix you can make for the best use

of your dehydrated potatoes. First, you’ll need to make a sauce mix:

a pinch of black pepper

2 tablespoons non-fat milk

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon onion powder

Once the sauce mix is done, place it in Ziploc bags, but make sure you

remove as much of the air as possible before closing them. Take a large

enough jar, and place some dried potato slices on the bottom. Place the

Ziploc bags filled with sauce on top of the slices, and close the jar. Now

you have a ready-to-eat meal that you can add to a casserole or serve

as a side dish with fried meat.

1.1.7 Tomatoes

Tomatoes aren’t necessarily the easiest vegetables to dehydrate. Maybe

because tomatoes are fruits (technically) and not vegetables. All joking

aside, drying them is a bit more difficult due to the high amounts of water

that tomatoes hold. Although drying tomatoes might be tricky, it is

nowhere near impossible. Fortunately, the problem has many solutions.

If you won’t be using a dehydrator, you can simply sun-dry your

tomatoes. First and foremost, choose the tomatoes that will undergo the

process, and wash them thoroughly. Once they’ve been washed,

remove the stem, and slice them up into about ¼-inch thick slices. You

can also remove the skin if you like, but it’s not necessarily

recommended. Tomatoes require about a minute of blanching in hot

water. Next you should immediately move them to ice water. This will

make skinning easier if you still decide to do it this way. Take a tray that

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it’s large enough, and place the tomato slices gently onto it. In order to

keep debris and pesky bugs away, you’ll need to cover them with

cheesecloth. Set them out to dry in the sunlight, and check on them –

four to five times a day. They should be done in about three days. You

can sprinkle them with sea salt, and this will enhance the flavor and

speed up the dehydration process.

If you’ll be using a dehydrator, all you need to do is place them on the

dehydrator racks, spread enough so that air will flow freely around them,

removing excess moisture in the process. You can add salt too; in this

case, it’s for the flavor more than anything. Turn on the heat to 140°F,

and check on them periodically, every five to seven hours. The whole

process shouldn’t take longer than 20 hours. Tomatoes can also be

dehydrated in an oven, but thesetting will be harder to control in this

case. You could easily overcook the tomatoes unless you’re wasting

most of your time supervising the operation. You can put the dry

tomatoes whole into air-tight jars, or you can grind them and place the

resulting powder in Ziploc bags. Store the containers in a cool and dry

place.

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Recipe: Sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil

Sun-dried tomatoes can be used as an

ingredient in many dishes, and one of

the best and easiest to make is sun-

dried tomatoes in olive oil. You’ll need

the following ingredients:

about 5 lbs. of sun-dried

tomatoes

a few leaves of fresh basil

kosher salt

4 minced garlic cloves

3 cups olive oil

½ cup dried oregano.

If you have a wide-mouth, large enough jar, you’re halfway there. What

you must do first is clean the jar properly; sterilizing the jar would be

even better. Next you’ll have to set everything in layers, as follows (from

bottom to top): add a layer of dried tomatoes, add salt, add the garlic,

add the oregano, and finally add the basil. Repeat the process until the

jar is full. Once the jar is filled, add the olive oil. The oil will take some

time to settle, so take your time, and pour as much as it takes. Stop only

when the final layer is covered in olive oil. Close the jar tightly, and place

it in a cool and dry spot, away from sunlight. In about seven days, the

chemical reactions will have been completed, and you can dig in.

1.2 How to dehydrate fruits

1.2.1 Apples

Apples are probably the first fruits that surface on a prepper’s to-do list.

This is justified by the fact that apples are nutritious, delicious, and easy

to find or grow. The first thing to do before anything else is to wash the

apples thoroughly to remove any impurities or pathogens that could put

your health at risk. If the apples are squeaky clean, they’re ready to be

processed. First, peel the apples and remove the cores. You can either

do this manually or get a mechanical apple peeler. The device will be

necessary if you plan on storing huge amounts of apples. If you don’t

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plan on getting such a device, don’t worry. You can still do it all by hand.

Remove the damaged areas from the peeled apples, and cut them into

thin slices; a ¼ of an inch will do just fine. Once the apples are sliced

just right, move them quickly to the tray of the dehydrator, and start

“cooking.” Set the temperature at 130°F, and in about eight to nine hours

the apples should be ready. Take them out of the dehydrator, and store

in jars or plastic Ziploc bags.

You can add cinnamon before storing them to increase flavor. You

should work quickly because apples will oxidize and spoil in no time, so

the faster you are, the better.

Recipe: Dehydrated apple chips

A very tasty and easy-to-make

recipe with dehydrated apples is

(you guessed it) dehydrated apple

chips. This is a very sweet and

savory treat and requires apples,

cinnamon, and a sweetener of your

choice (sugar, honey, etc.). The

process is easy and follows

basically the same steps as the

standard dehydration method; it

can be done by either using the dehydrator or the oven. However, it’s

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best if you cut the apples into full slices instead of orange-like ones.

Arrange the apples accordingly in the tray, and sprinkle cinnamon and

sugar (or pour honey) to your heart’s content. If you’re using the oven

instead of the dehydrator, preheat at 190–200°F, bake one hour, stop

the process, and flip the slices. Bake for another hour, and your apple

chips should be ready. You can store them in jars or any other air-tight

container, which should be deposited in a dry and cool place.

1.2.2 Bananas

The banana has a bit of versatility when it comes to dehydrating it. The

banana chips are real easy to make, especially if you’ll be using a

dehydrator. Peel the bananas, and slice them into thin, even layers. If

you don’t feel like doing it by hand, you can simply break the fruit in half

and place it in an egg slicer, and the cutting device will do the work for

you. There are similar devices, made especially for bananas, but they’re

harder to find; besides, an egg slicer is all you need. Spread the slices

evenly on the dehydrator rack, and turn on the heat. Depending on how

long you’ll let the bananas sit in the dehydrator, you can get two results:

soft and chewy like taffy (for less time) or crispy and crunchy (for a

longer period of time). Depending on the banana’s state of ripeness, it’s

a bit hard to anticipate how long it will take exactly, so check on the

progress once every two hours. Set the machine at about 130°F, and

you should get leathery and chewy bananas in about 10–12 hours; a full

day’s time (approximately) will get you hard and crispy banana chips. If

you are not keen on the whole slicing business, you could go for banana

leather. Just smash the bananas by hand or use a rolling pin, and put

the mush in the dehydrator. Make the surface as flat as possible, and

turn on the dehydrator at 130°F; it should take about eight hours for the

process to be completed. Once it’s done, store it in an airtight container,

and store it under the right conditions.

Recipe:Honey-glazed banana chips

The banana chips will make a great main

ingredient for the honey-glazed banana

chips. After slicing the fruits, dip them in

lemon juice, and let them sit for a couple of

minutes. After a few minutes, take them out

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and place them in the dehydrator. When placing the banana in the

dehydrator, glaze the surface of the chips with honey, and start baking.

For extra flavor, you can add cinnamon too. The chips will be very tasty,

especially for those with a serious sweet tooth.

1.2.3 Cherries

Cherries make for an excellent dessert, and having them at your

disposal throughout the year will make your efforts worthwhile. Because

of their shape, cherries can be dehydrated almost whole. All you need to

do is remove the pit. Placing the cherries whole (almost) in the

dehydrator is a good idea, especially if you’ll be planning on making all

sorts of muffins or similar pastries that require big chunks of fruit. If this

is not the case, you can simply cut them in half. This way you’ll remove

the pit easier and the dehydration process will be faster. Because

cherries are fruits that have high amounts of sugar, they tend to vary in

ripeness. So keeping them an exact amount of time in the dehydrator is

not exactly the way to go. You’ll need to check on your progress every

three hours and make sure that everything is going fine. After you’ve

sliced your cherries (or not), spread them on the dehydrator rack. Keep

them cooking at about 120°F for 12–24 hours depending on how ripe

they are. They should be stored in airtight containers, preferably with

oxygen-absorbing packs. Cherries tend to spoil quickly, even after being

dehydrated, so take all the right precautions.

Recipe: Wild rice salad

Cherries will add a dash of

color and a lot of flavor to

anything they come in contact

to. They’re best for salads, like

a variation of the wild rice

salad. The ingredients for the

wild rice salad are as follows:

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2 cups wild rice

7½ cups water

2 cups dried cherries (sour)

1 cup parsley leaves (chopped or whole)

2 shallots (thinly sliced)

3-inch pieces of ginger (peeled and thinly sliced)

2 tablespoons salt

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons white vinegar

1 tablespoon minced garlic.

Take a large-enough pan, and stir together the rice, 1 tablespoon of salt,

and water. Bring everything to a boil over above-medium heat, after

which you’ll reduce the heat to low, put the lid on, and simmer until the

rice gets tender (about 45 minutes). After the 45 minutes are up, drain

the excess water. In a bowl, mix and stir in the vinegar, lemon juice, and

sugar. Take a sauce pan, and heat oil over medium-high heat; then add

the remaining salt, shallots, ginger, and garlic. Stir everything for about

three to five minutes, until the shallots turn translucent. Last but not

least, throw in the cherries and water, and continue stirring. In about 12

minutes the cherries will become plump; this means you must remove

from the heat; add the sugar, vinegar, and lemon juice mixture; and stir

some more. Combine the rice and cherry mixture in a large dish, and

cover; let it sit overnight. Before serving, add the parsley.

1.2.4 Watermelon

Watermelons can be

dehydrated too, despite the

fact that they’re made up of

90–91% water. But to get

good results, you’ll need to

pick the right melon. Look for

a large watermelon that has a

yellow spot somewhere along

its body. This is an indicator of

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the fact that the melon was left to ripen naturally, on the ground, and

hasn’t been picked early. Cut the front and back ends, and slice the

watermelon into equal slices of about half an inch thick. The round slices

will be cut into four to five vertical strips, and the rind will be removed in

the process.

Before adding the fruit into the dehydrator, it’s best you let them sit on

the dehydrator trays or racks for a while so that they’ll lose as much

water as possible. Once the dripping stops, put them in the dehydrator at

135–140°F. It shouldn’t take more than 10 – 12 hours, but of course,

variables may differ depending on the size of the fruit. If you don’t have a

dehydrator, you can also use the oven. Dry the melon at 140°F for about

15–20 hours. Check on the progress every two to three hours, and leave

the door cracked so the moisture can escape easily. Place in airtight

containers (preferably airtight glass jars), and deposit in a proper storage

space.

Recipe:Dehydrated watermelon

The dehydrated watermelon is not

known for any particular recipe, so

it’s up to you to try different things

and experiment. It’s the type of

food that stands perfectly on its

own, and you can enhance its

flavor in many ways. Watermelon

jerky will last for a long time, and

although it is sweet and savory

enough on its own, you can throw

it in the mix in all sorts of pastries and fruit salads and even serve it with

a glazing of honey, syrup, or lemon juice.

1.2.5 Oranges, lemons, and limes

Citrus in general is probably the best natural source for vitamin C, which

helps boost the immune system immensely. So these would make a

great addition to your dried food collection. Begin by washing the fruit;

this will remove any impurities and pathogens that might live on the

outer layers of the rind. Next you’ll have to slice the fruits into thin slice

(as thin as possible). You can either do it by hand or with a slicer

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machine; the latter would be a lot faster. You can place the slices whole,

or you can remove the peel and grind it into a thin powder, which can

then be used as a seasoning, as a baking ingredient, or for tea. Place

the slices carefully on the tray in a single layer. Turn the heat on to

120°F, and check in on the process every three to five hours. It shouldn’t

be longer than 18–20 hours before they’re done. After they’re done,

store them in airtight jars.

Recipe: Citrusy granola

Although the resulting citrus crisps are tasty and hold a lot of vitamins,

it’s the dried, ground peels that have loads of usefulness when it comes

to cooking. The citrusy granola is a very tasty recipe that requires the

following:

1 teaspoon dried orange

peels

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

a pinch of sea salt

4 cups rolled oats

1/3 cup brown sugar

2/3 cup maple syrup

1/3 cup melted coconut oil

Start by preheating the oven to 325°F. Take a small tray, and place

baking paper on top of it. Take a large-enough bowl and mix together

the orange peel, brown sugar, cinnamon, and oats. Next add the vanilla,

the coconut oil, and the maple syrup. Place the granola on the baking

sheet, and use a rolling pin to even out the layer. Bake the granola for

15 minutes; then rotate and bake for another 15 minutes. The layer must

be light brown and crispy. Remove and let it cool completely. Break into

crumbles, and store in an airtight container for about a week or two.

2. Freeze-drying

Freeze-drying is one of the oldest methods used as far as food

preservation goes, and throughout time, it’s known many forms, but the

core was always the same. It’s a variation of the drying method but

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much faster. Instead of leaving fruits and vegetables out in the open,

exposed to the gradual process of drying under the sunlight, we can now

dehydrate them more efficiently thanks to cryogenic freezing and

vacuum drying. The outcome is that the food will lose as much water as

possible, making it viable when it comes to storing it over long periods of

time. What sets it apart from traditional dehydration is that freeze-dried

food retains a larger quantity of nutrients. The nutritional value remains

pretty much constant because large amounts of vitamins, nutrients, and

antioxidants won’t be flushed out with the water.

Another upside to freeze-dried food is the overall taste. Although

dehydrated food will be lacking in any sort of spices, seasoning, or taste

enhancers, a freeze-dried meal will not. Many preppers and survivalists

that have reviewed these products have agreed that many of them taste

as good as the real deal, many being comparable to actual home-

cooked meals. So when it comes to taste, you’ll definitely get your

money’s worth of delicious food.

When it comes to storing ready-to-eat freeze-dried meals, you’ll need

very little space at all. These meals come in very durable packs that

have been vacuumed and sealed tightly. They are tiny in size, so you

won’t require much space to store them. Thanks to the extremely

advanced packaging methods used as a standard by all manufacturers,

these meals have the ability to last for a lifetime. You might think that as

far as variations go, there aren’t many options available. But you’d be

wrong as these types of meals consist of a multitude of combinations of

meats, vegetables, herbs, and spices, replicating your mother’s cooking

with success. And the best part is that you can try them out for yourself;

you don’t have to take my word for it. Here are some of the best freeze-

dried meal packs available on the market.

a) Backpacker’s Pantry is one of the biggest names in the business,

and they are from Boulder, CO. For $11, you can get a great meal

for two consisting of sweet and sour chicken. The dish is

comprised of bits of chicken and pineapple, and overall, it is really

tasty with a pleasant smell.

b) Good to Go is a relatively new name on the scene, and it’s a

family brand from Maine. The Herbed Mushroom Risotto is a

ready-to-eat meal that costs $11 and will feed two people. The

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meal is rich in flavor, and the ingredients used are of the highest

quality.

c) Mountain House is one of the oldest companies, and it has been

producing freeze-dried food for the military for more than 50 years.

They’re top class, and they specialize in vegetarian meals, which

are extremely tasty, and they can come as cheap as $7 per meal.

But enough with what the market has to offer as freeze-drying is a

process that can be easily achieved as home just as well. The first thing

a DIY-er needs to understand about the process is that the fruits or

vegetables that are suited best for freeze-drying are the ones that

contain the highest amounts of water. The more water they originally

have, the more intact their structure will remain after the process is done

and over with. In order to ensure the maximum number of nutrients and

the best taste possible, you should always freeze-dry the fruits and

veggies at the peak of their ripeness, in full season. If you want to do

things by the book, these are the steps you’ll need to follow:

Step 1: If the vegetables or fruit you want to freeze-dry are ripe and

juicy, you’ll need to give them a thorough wash before doing anything

else.

Step 2: The best way to ensure that most of the excess moisture will be

removed is to slice the fruits or vegetables in question into small chunks

or pieces.

Step 3: Spread out the pieces as much as possible on at tray so that

they are not touching each other.

Step 4: Place the food in the fridge at the lowest setting possible, the

colder the better; a deep freezer would be best; the process in itself can

last for about a week, so if you’re planning on using your freezer for

freeze-drying, empty it of anything else before doing so.

Step 5: The freezer should be opened as little as possible for as long as

the freeze-drying process takes. For a period of seven to nine days the

moisture will be gradually removed out of the food you placed in the

freezer; after seven days, take out a piece of fruit, and let it sit for a

while; if it turns black, there’s still some water left, so continue freezing.

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Step 6: Once you’ve made sure the process is complete, you can move

the freeze-dried food into air-tight freezer bags; you can grind the food

into fine powder or not.

Step 7: Place the freeze-dried food in the freezer or in a designated

storage facility that’s cool enough.

2.1 Recipes using freeze-dried fruits and vegetables

2.1.1 Basic chicken soup

The basic chicken soup is an excellent dish that can be done even by

the clumsiest cook. All you need is the following ingredients:

½ cup freeze-dried tomatoes

1 cup freeze-dried chicken

½ cup chopped onions

1 cup freeze-dried corn

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon chili powder

¼ teaspoon chipotle pepper

Seeing as the main ingredients (the chicken and tomatoes) are already

freeze-dried, making the soup will require no effort at all. Just take a

large pot and throw everything in. Add about 7–8 cups of water, and let it

simmer for about 20–25 minutes. While the soup’s cooking, you can take

your time and heat some tasty tortilla chips, which go great with this kind

of soup.

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2.1.2 Chicken salad with apples

The taste of chicken salad with apples is very interesting and fresh at the

same time. The ingredients required are as follows:

salt & pepper

3 cups water

1 cup freeze-dried apples

½ cup mayonnaise

½ cup olive oil

½ cup freeze-dried celery

1/3 cup cranberries. Place a sauce pan on the stove over high

heat. Throw in the water, chicken, and apples. Once

everything is brought to a boil, turn the heat to low, and let it

simmer for 10–12 minutes. Next you must add the celery and

the cranberries; the cranberries will add more flavor if they’re

cut in half before adding them to the mix. Cover the pan, and

let it sit for another 10–12 minutes. After the time is up, place

the mixture into a colander, and let it drain for about 7

minutes. Once all the excess moisture is out, add the mayo,

salt, oil and the pepper. Put in the fridge until it’s cool. It’s best

served on tortillas or sliced bread.

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2.1.3 Beans and pasta soup

This particular dish is made up of a lot of complementary ingredients. It’s

easy to make and to store and even easier to consume. You’ll need the

following:

1/3 cup freeze-dried celery

½ cup penne pasta

½ cup freeze-dried chopped onions

¾ cup instant pinto beans

¼ cup carrot slices

½ cup tomato powder

¾ cup freeze-dried ground beef

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

½ tablespoon basil

¼ tablespoon pepper

½ tablespoon oregano

½ tablespoon thyme

Take a large jar, and place the ingredients in the following order (from

bottom to top): carrots, pasta, onions, pinto beans, ground beef, tomato

powder, garlic, basil, oregano, thyme, pepper, celery, and bell peppers

(optional). Repeat the process until the jar is full. To make the soup, get

a pot and add seven to eight cups of water. Pour the contents of the jar

in the pot, and simmer for about 20 minutes. It’s best served with garlic

bread.

2.1.4 Rice pilaf (Southwest style)

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Rice pilaf prepared Southwestern style is a very delicious dish. The taste

will make you realize that your efforts were worthwhile. For this delightful

dish, you must have the following ingredients:

1 cup brown rice

3 cups water

1 clove fresh garlic

1/3 cup dehydrated carrots

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1/3 cup freeze-dried corn

½ teaspoon ground oregano

1/3 cup freeze-dried onion

2 tablespoons chicken bullion

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons dehydrated bell pepper (red or green)

3 tablespoons freeze-dried chili

Take out a medium pot, heat it, and add the olive oil and garlic; stir until

the garlic becomes light gold. Next add all the ingredients, and stir to

homogenize the mix. Simmer the mixture over low-medium heat until the

liquid gets absorbed by the ingredients. The pilaf should be ready in

about 15 minutes. Take the pot off the stove, and let it cool for a few

minutes before serving.

2.1.5 Blueberry pancakes

All-American blueberry pancakes are an excellent treat, especially for

those who can’t get through their day without having something sweet to

eat (freeze-dried blueberries work too):

a pinch of salt

¾ cup freeze-dried blueberries

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 egg

knob butter

1.5 cups (350 ml) milk

1½ cups self-rising flour

sunflower oil or butter (to add to the frying pan)

maple syrup

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First, mix together the pinch of salt, baking soda, and flour; then beat the

egg with the milk. Make a hole in the middle of the dry ingredients, and

pour the milk to get a homogenized, thick paste. Place a pan on the

stove over medium heat, and add the batter. The pancake should be

about 3 inches in diameter, and once small bubbles start to appear on

the surface of the pancake, flip it and repeat the process. Each side

should take about 2–3 minutes to cook. Once it’s done, remove it, wrap

it in cooking paper to absorb the excess oil or butter (whichever you

added in the pan), and serve with maple syrup.

3. Oxygen-Absorbing Capsules

A great method of ensuring

that the food you’re trying to

store will last as long as

possible is to seal the food in

airtight containers. Oxygen

deprivation reduces oxidation

and exposure to aerobic

microorganisms that could

deteriorate and spoil the food

very quickly. There are plenty

of methods to reduce oxygen

levels when it comes to

stored food, and I’ll present to you one of my personal favorites: the

method of the oxygen-absorbing packs.

First and foremost, you’ll need to get yourself some five- to six-gallon

plastic buckets. You find these pretty much anywhere, and buying them

in bulk will get you a better deal. It’s important to know the type of plastic

the containers you just bought are made up of and whether they’re made

out of food-grade material or not. The food-grade plastic means you can

deposit your food directly in the container without necessarily having to

use a liner. But if the plastic is not food-grade, there’s no question about

it: You’ll need to place something in between the food and the plastic.

One of the best and most comfortable liners you can use is Mylar bags

or any sort of regular plastic bags. Here’s how it’s done:

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Step 1: Take the plastic buckets that will serve as containers, and have

them open and ready.

Step 2: Take the plastic or Mylar bags, and place them in the

bucket/container; the best bags for a five- to six-gallon bucket is the 20 x

30 inch ones.

Step 3: Next fill the bag with the fruit or vegetables you’re trying to

preserve for as long as possible.

Step 4: After the bag is filled with as much food as you see fit, you’ll

need to throw the oxygen absorbing bags into the mix. After you open

them, you’ll need to move as fast as possible in order to ensure their

maximum efficiency; if you don’t have oxygen absorbers, you could

always use CO2 (carbon dioxide from dry ice) instead.

Step 5: Squeeze out as much of the excess air as you possibly can;

then seal the Mylar or plastic bag shut with a hot iron.

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Step 6: After you’ve finished ironing and sealing the bag as air tightly as

humanly possible, roll the excess bag inside the bucket, and put the lid

on the plastic bucket

This method will ensure an airtight and light-tight environment for your

stored food. You can keep the sealed buckets in a cool and dark

environment for maximum efficiency. The plastic is too hard for insects

to get through, but it may not be enough protection for rats or other

rodents. So keep your storage space as clean as possible, and check on

the buckets regularly. Dehydrated vegetables will last in the airtight

containers for a period of about 8–10 years, and dehydrated fruit will last

for 10–15 years.

4. Pickling

Pickling is a food preservation method that has been used for many

centuries all across the globe. In the old days, when people didn’t have

access to better ways of preserving their vegetables (and even some

fruits) over the winter, they used to pickle them and store them for as

long as possible. Although the method is not necessary today, it still

works, and in case of an unfortunate calamity that might cause power

failure, it’s good to have an alternative that does not require fridges or

similar contraptions when it comes to storing your vegetables for long

periods of time. The process of pickling is all about preserving the food

items in a high-acid environment that kills off any potential harmful

bacteria that could cause the food to spoil. The acid environment will

consist of a solution that you’ll have to prepare at home.

You can have two basic types of pickling solutions: salt-based (dry salt

or brine) and vinegar-based. What you decide on using should be

based on taste more than anything. Both methods are efficient, but

they’ll either make your food taste saltier or sourer, depending on which

method you’ll go for.

Salt is probably the oldest food preservative known to man. Adding

enough salt to various food products will dry excess water and also will

create a very harmful and acid environment for all sorts of bacteria.

Salting works in most cases; all you need to do is add salt excessively to

food and let it sit. But more refined methods exist, so instead of adding

dry salt, you can make brine (a salty saline solution), in which you’ll

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immerse whatever it is you’re trying to pickle. When immersed in brine, a

natural and beneficial chemical effect will occur, which is based on

fermentation. The sugars in the food will be broken down into lactic acid,

which is a strong natural preservative. It’s the lactic acid that creates the

acidic environment (low PH) that kills off the bad bacteria that would

otherwise spoil the food. Not only that but it also gives that salty-sour

taste that we all know and love.

Vinegar will make for a much faster pickling process. There is no

fermentation process as far as vinegar is involved. First, the vegetables

will be left to sit in brine for as long as recommended in order to add

some flavor and crispness. They will be removed from the saline solution

and drained as well as possible. Once drained, they’ll be boiled into a

vinegar-based solution and added in jars (or some other sort of

containers). After carefully placing the vegetables in the jars, pour the

vinegary solution in, seal tightly, and place the jars in storage. The acetic

acid in the vinegar will create a very acid environment, killing off any

microorganisms that could spoil your vegetables.

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What you’ll need for pickling:

1) Fresh ingredients are a must. The fresher the fruits or vegetables

are, the better. Fresh products mean they haven’t been altered by

microorganisms, which will make them taste better and last longer.

2) Containers are a must as you’ll need something to keep your

pickles in. The best option you have are glass jars with strong lids

that can be sealed easily and tightly.

3) Cutting tools are absolutely necessary if you want to make the

best use of the jar space. Some vegetables can go in whole, but

most will require cutting into smaller fractions. Sliced vegetables

are better than placing them in whole; this will ensure more

exposure to the pickling solution, thus making the process as fast

as possible.

4) Sugar is optional and should be added according to taste. This is

a great choice for those who prefer a sweeter taste to a sourer

one.

5) Flavorings (herbs and spices) are a must if you wish to make

your pickles taste as good as possible. There are many flavorings

to consider, and the combinations of possibilities are endless.

6) Fresh water is an absolute must; you shouldn’t use water for

pickling that isn’t normally good for drinking.

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7) A proper storage space is required after the pickles have been

placed in the jars. The place should be cool, dark, and dry.

4.1 Pickle recipes

4.1.1 Grandma’s recipe

This recipe is simple to prepare and can be done even by the most

inexperienced cooks. The first thing you must do is wash the vegetables

properly. After they’re washed, some vegetables will require blanching

(soft boiling in water) before being processed. Only tougher vegetables

should be blanched, like peppers, ginger, beans, okra, etc. Simple

water-based vegetables like cucumbers or tomatoes require no

blanching at all. Next you should slice the vegetables as thinly as

possible and place them in jars. Once they’ve been carefully placed in

the jars, you’ll need to add flavorings to the mix. Flavorings can be either

fresh (horseradish, shallot, garlic, onion, dill, basil, etc.) or dry (celery

seed, dried peppers, mustard seeds, pickling spices, etc.). You can

make all sorts of combinations; you’re only limited by your imagination.

The last and final step consists of making the brine and adding it in the

jars. The brine can be sweeter (by adding an extra amount of sugar) or

sourer. I, for one, like the sour pickle brine best, and this is how you do

it: Mix 3 cups of distilled white vinegar (or cider vinegar), 3 cups of water,

2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons sea salt, and 2 tablespoons of sugar in a

large saucepan. Once it starts to boil, start stirring until the salt and

sugar are dissolved. Boil for 2–3 minutes more, and remove from the

heat. Once the brine is ready, pour it into the jars and seal tightly.

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4.1.2 Minty pickled eggplant

Get your hands on a canning pot and two clean jars. Get two new jar

lids, and simmer over low heat. Chop an eggplant into small pieces; two

pounds of eggplant will suffice. Get a pan, and fill it up with red wine

vinegar (2½ cups); set it on low-medium heat, and bring it to a boil. Once

the vinegar starts boiling, add the eggplant, and let it simmer for about

three minutes. After the three minutes are up, remove the pieces of

eggplant from the boiling vinegar and put in a bowl; also add chopped

garlic (1 tablespoon) and mint leaves (1/3 cup). Stir the mixture. Place

the mixture into the jars and pour the boiling vinegar, but leave about

two inches of headspace. You can tap on the jars to release as much

trapped air as possible. Wipe the rims and the lids, and place the lids on

the jars. Move the jars into a water bath canner for no more than 10

minutes (start countdown when the water starts boiling). After the time is

up, take out the jars and store them in a cool and dark place. They’ll be

fit to eat in about two weeks and can hold for up to a year.

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4.1.3 Pickled tomatoes

Start by getting about 1½ pounds of meaty, small red tomatoes. Get two

regular jars, and boil two new lids in water over low heat to kill any

possible pathogens that could get you sick. In a pot, combine 1½ cups of

red wine vinegar with 1½ cups of water, along with a pinch of sugar, 2

tablespoons of salt, and ginger slices (from a 2-inch piece of ginger).

Bring everything to a boil. Add to the bottom of each jar about 1

tablespoon of pickling spices. Peel the tomatoes, and carefully place

them in the jars. Pour the brine in the jars, but leave about one inch of

headspace. Tap the jars so trapped air can escape. On the top, you can

add some ginger for a taste boost. Place the lids on tightly, and put the

jars in the canner for about 10 minutes (start countdown when the water

starts boiling). Once the 10 minutes are up, take out the jars, dry them

with towels, and let them sit for about two weeks (in a proper storage

space) before eating.

4.1.4 Pickled minty carrots

First and foremost, start with about 1½ pounds of fresh carrots. Peel and

slice the carrots in about half-an-inch-thick slices. After the slicing is

done, add the carrots to a pot of salt water, and simmer over low heat

until they’re nice and tender. While the carrots are cooking, mix together

the following in a bowl:

a small clove of garlic (minced)

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped mint

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3 tablespoons rice vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Once the carrots are tender enough, take them out and drain them of

excess water. Once they have drained, put them in the bowl filled with

the vinaigrette you prepared, and let them cool. Once cooled, put plastic

wrap over the bowl, and throw it in the fridge. The carrots should be

ready to eat in about two to three hours, and they can last for up to five

days in the fridge.

4.1.5 Pickled grapes

First of all, you’ll need to get the right grapes for the job. They should be

firm and without any wrinkles if you’re looking to make premium pickled

grapes. Get a pound of grapes, wash them, and trim the portion of the

grape around the stem. This way the pickling brine will have a much

easier time entering the grapes. Next get a small saucepan, in which

you’ll add ¼ cup of water, 1 cup of sugar (granulated), and 1 cup of

apple cider vinegar. Place the pan over high heat until the mixture starts

to boil. In a , place the following spices on the bottom:

a cinnamon stick

half a vanilla bean

¼ teaspoon cloves

1/8 teaspoon mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns.

Next place the grapes in the jar over the layer of spices. Pour the boiling

mixture over the grapes, and let them sit until they cool down. Place the

lid on tightly, and store in the fridge for about two days before eating.

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5. Canning

Canning is yet another method that has been around for a while and will

keep your fruits and vegetables “fresh” for long periods of time. The

whole process is very economical and is probably the cheapest way to

properly conserve and store your food. The reason it won’t put a strain

on your wallet is because the containers used (cans or canning jars) can

be reused year after year without having to purchase new ones—unless

of course you break the ones you have. You only have to spend money

on fresh fruits or vegetables (unless you grow your own) and new lids,

and that’s pretty much it. If done correctly, canning will provide you with

delicious and nutritious fruits and vegetables all year long, and they only

require proper storage conditions. With canning, you won’t be dependent

on electricity anymore, but that’s the whole idea behind it. As far as

canning methods go, there are two main techniques to consider:

The water bath technique is ideal for high-acid foods. This will work

perfectly for fruits, jams, jellies, fruit juices, fruit spreads, salsas, etc. If

you have your mind set on any of these, here are the steps you’ll need

to follow:

Step 1: Read the recipe you want to make first, and prepare your

equipment.

Step 2: Make sure that you have everything you’ll need and that there

are no faulty pieces of equipment (cracked jars, torn lids, etc.).

Step 3: Wash everything in hot, soapy water (the jars, the lids, and the

bands); rinse well and let dry.

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Step 4: Fill a large pan (or pot) with water, and place the jars in it (you

can also fill the jars with water to avoid flotation); now heat up the pot at

medium heat (not boiling) so the jars will warm up as well; warming up

the jars gradually will prevent them from cracking when adding hot food.

Step 5: Prepare the canner (or a large enough pot that can hold an

entire jar) by filling it half full with water; keep the water simmering and

the lid on until the jars will be placed in.

Step 6: Prepare a recipe of your choosing.

Step 7: Remove the jar from the hot water pot, empty it, and add the

fruits according to the recipe; you should also remove the excess of air if

the recipe requires you to.

Step 8: Clean the jar rim of any excess food, place the lid on tightly and

correctly, and lower the jars (according to the recipe) into the canner; the

jars should be immersed by at least one inch.

Step 9: Put the lid on, and bring everything to a boil according to the

recipe’s processing time. Once the time is up, turn off the heat, remove

the lid of the pan, and let the boiled jars sit in the canner for 5–7 minutes

before taking them out.

Step 10: Remove the jars, and wrap them individually in a towel for

about 24 hours; after the time is up, check each jar for signs of

deterioration.

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If everything turned out okay, the jars can be safely placed in storage. If

jars have been damaged or the lids haven’t sealed, you can always

repeat the process or refrigerate the contents of the damaged jar.

The pressure canning technique is favorable for preserving

vegetables and all sorts of low-acid foods in general. This method will

bring everything to a heat of 240°F, killing any potentially harmful

bacteria in the process. If you plan on canning a combination of both

high-acid and low-acid foods, you’ll go exclusively with the pressure

canning method. This is what you must do:

Step 1: Read the recipe you want to make first, and prepare your

equipment.

Step 2: Make sure that you have everything you’ll need and that there

are no faulty pieces of equipment (cracked jars, torn lids, etc.).

Step 3: Wash everything in hot, soapy water (the jars, the lids, and the

bands); rinse well and let dry.

Step 4: Fill a pressure canner and place the jars inside (you can also fill

the jars with water to avoid flotation). Now heat up the pot at medium

heat (not boiling) so the jars will warm up as well; warming up the jars

gradually will prevent them from cracking when adding hot food.

Step 5: Prepare the pressure canner by filling it with 3 inches of water;

keep the water simmering and the lid on until the jars will be placed

inside.

Step 6: Prepare a recipe of your choosing.

Step 7: Remove the jar out of the hot water pot, empty it, and add the

vegetables according to the recipe; you should also remove the excess

air if the recipe requires you to.

Step 8: Clean the jar rim of any excess food, place the lid on tightly and

correctly, and lower the jars (according to recipe) in the canner; the

water level should be about 3 inches deep.

Step 9: Put the pressure canner’s lid on, turn on the vent pipe, and set

the heat to medium-high; once the steam starts escaping steadily, vent

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for 10–12 minutes to ensure there’s only steam (no air) left in the

pressure canner.

Step 10: When the pressuring time is up (according to the recipe),

remove the pressure canner from the heat, and let it sit until pressure

returns to zero (without touching the gauge). After 10–15 minutes (or

according to the manufacturer’s instructions), you can unlock the lid; let

the jars sit for another 10–15 minutes to adjust to external conditions.

Just as before, the jars should be picked up and left to rest for about 24

hours while completely wrapped in towels. After this period, the

undamaged jars should be placed into storage and checked from time to

time.

6. Homemade alcohol

Turning some of your fruit and even vegetables into alcohol is a fun

possibility that could spare you from the headache of proper storage.

Although almost any fruit or vegetable known to man can be fermented

and distilled into some sort of alcoholic drink (i.e., vodka being made out

of potatoes and sake being made out of rice), it’s the fruits that are

preferred when it comes to alcohol making, thanks to their sweet and

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rich flavors. We’re all aware of the rich and savory taste of red wine or

the powerful aroma of orange-based sangria. But when it comes to

homemade alcohol, know that the possibilities are many and almost

anything living (of course, anything living WITHOUT a pulse) can be

turned into alcohol. Here is how:

Fresh fruit juice-based alcohol

The 1st method is simple and easy to make. Get some of the fruits

you’re trying to save from improper storage conditions, and

squeeze them dry into a container to your liking. With the resulting

fruit juice, fill as many two- to two and a half-liter bottles as you

can. The fruit juice you’re using should be 100% natural, and it

shouldn’t contain more than 20 grams of sugar for the fermentation

process to be successful. Once you have filled your bottles with

juice, you can add the yeast, which will trigger the fermentation;

about 1/3 or half a packet (depending on the bottle size) should do.

After adding the yeast, apply airlocks to each bottle, and tighten

them up. The airlocks will allow the gaseous buildup to escape

gradually, avoiding an unwanted explosion. All you have to do is

let the bottles sit for a few days at room temperature, and that’s

about it.

The 2nd method is more of a DIY-er dream and is based on more

improvisation, but it is still as efficient as the first. First thing’s first:

Decide on the fruit you’ll want to base your alcoholic beverage on,

and juice it up. If you don’t have enough yeast, you can improvise

some as long as you have some fresh bread lying around the

house and a coffee filter. Break the bread into tiny pieces, and use

them to fill the coffee filter. Once this is done, staple the coffee

filter shut (as tightly as possible), and place it in a jar. Next boil

some water and then pour the boiling water into the jar over the

coffee filter (the jar should be half full). Put the lid on, and let the

jar sit for seven to nine hours. Next turn on the stove and add 2

cups (500 ml) of fruit juice and 1/3 cups (75 ml) of sugar. Mix and

let it simmer for one to two minutes; after the two minutes are up,

add the “dirty” water from the jar, and let it simmer for another

three minutes on low heat while stirring constantly. Place the

resulting concoction in a jar, cover with a coffee filter, and let it sit

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for about 10 days (leave it longer for enhanced alcohol volume).

After the time is up, pour the drink into a clean container without

removing the coffee filter, and there you have it!

Making apple cider is a great alternative to storing apples, which tend to

be very pretentious and spoil fast. So do the right thing, and turn them

into cider! The first thing you’ll need to prepare is must, which is a mix of

ingredients that will turn into cider later on. Take a two- to two and a half-

liter soda bottle, and fill it with one liter of water, 250 ml of apple juice,

and sugar according to taste. There’s really no such thing as too much

sugar for those who have a big sweet tooth; all that matters is for it to be

completely dissolved. Apart from the sugar, you can also add some

cinnamon for enhanced taste. Mix the ingredients so that they all

dissolve completely.

Once the must is done, set it aside and start preparing for the

fermentation process. If you’ll be using dry yeast, you can rehydrate it by

adding a little water and sugar. Have it sit in a dish for about 15 minutes.

After rehydrating the yeast, add it to the must, and shake. Next you’ll

need to install an airlock on the bottle, or you can always improvise one

by placing a plastic bag over the mouth of the bottle and tightening it

loosely with a rubber band (the loose rubber band will allow the

excessive gas to escape). In about five to seven days the initial

fermentation should have ended; this is obvious once the fizzing stops,

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and the yeast is collected at the bottom of the bottle. Now place it in

another bottle, and try to keep as much of the yeast as possible from

spilling into the second bottle. Once the cider has been moved, place an

improvised airlock on the second bottle, and repeat the process as

fermentation may continue. Once it stops, the cider is ready for drinking.

6.1 Wine recipes

6.1.1 Basic red wine

This recipe is as basic as it gets; nothing can go wrong as long as you

follow instructions. For this recipe, the following ingredients are required:

2 quarts water

5 pounds red grapes

2 pounds sugar

1 package wine yeast

First and foremost, crush the grapes in a wine fermenting container.

When the crushing is done, dissolve the sugar in water, and add to the

must (the crushed grapes).

Put three ounces of water in a pot, and add the yeast package. Heat to

about 105– 10°F. Don’t stir for the first 15 minutes; just let it heat up.

After 15 minutes, start stirring, and add the must. Note that you could

also let the wine ferment naturally, without adding yeast, but the

fermentation process will be prolonged. Stir the concoction well and

cover the fermenter, but do it loosely. Let it ferment for seven days, but

check on the progress and stir it some more one to three times a day.

After the seven days are up, remove the pulp, and siphon out the liquid

in another fermenter. These new containers should be secured with

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airlocks so that they’ll be able to eliminate the excess gaseous buildup

that will result from fermentation. Let the fermentation continue for four

weeks, and repeat the process (remove the pulp -> syphon -> move into

clean fermenter -> let it sit) until the fermentation is over. When

fermenting stops, bottle the wine, and let it sit for at least a year in a cool

and dark place.

6.1.2 Peach wine

To start it off, you’ll need about 10 peaches (preferably with no brown

spots). Wash the fruits, and cut each one into four parts, removing the

pit. The reddish meat around the pits must also be removed, but the peel

should be kept. Place the fruits into nylon straining bags, and add them

to the primary fermenting container; crush them so you’ll obtain as much

fruit juice as possible. After the juice extraction is done, add the following

ingredients:

1 teaspoon pectic enzyme (powder)

1 Campden tablet

1½ teaspoons acid blend

½ teaspoon yeast energizer

¼ teaspoon tannin.

Add hot water, and stir well; cover loosely, and let it sit for 24 hours.

After the time is up, add the wine yeast. Let the concoction ferment for

four to five days.

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Remove the residue, and siphon everything into a secondary (and clean)

fermenter. This process is called racking. Add an airlock, and let it sit for

another three weeks. Rack it again in three months. After three months,

the wine should be done, but you can rack it again and let it sit for up to

a year to get the best peach wine imaginable.

6.1.3 Dry figs wine

Dry figs wine has a very specific aroma and would make a great addition

to any prepper’s pantry. Get about two pounds of dry figs, and wash

them properly. Get a saucepan, and add two cups of water and two cups

of honey; place the mixture over medium heat, and bring it to a boil.

Foam will form repeatedly, so remove it until there’s no more foam

forming. When this stops happening, remove the mixture from the heat,

and let it cool at room temperature. Place the figs in a proper container,

and pour eight cups of hot water and a Campden tablet; let it cool at

room temperature. Once they’re cool, remove the figs, chop them

roughly, and repeat the eight boiling cups of water and Campden tablet

procedure, except that this time you’ll let them sit overnight. Strain the

liquid resulting from the figs, and remove the pulp; combine the two

resulting liquids (the dissolved honey and the fig juice) into a primary

fermenter. Add the following:

4 to 4½ cups brown sugar

1 teaspoon nutrients

1 orange (juice + rind)

1 lemon (juice + rind)

1 teaspoon pectic enzyme

Add some water until you reach one gallon. Finally, add a whole packet

of yeast. After a maximum of five days, you can strain the wine and

move it into a secondary fermenter; make sure to use an airlock. Rack

the wine for eight weeks initially, then every three months for a year.

After the one-year period, you can bottle the wine.

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6.1.4 Pear wine

Pear wine will require four pounds of firm, ripe pears. Wash them, dry

them, and remove the stems. Next, you’ll have to cut them in half,

remove the core, and slice each resulting half in two. Place the pieces of

fruit in a nylon straining bag, and juice them into the primary fermenter.

Add a crushed Campden tablet as the juice starts dripping so that you

can avoid spoilage. The pulp shouldn’t be discarded. Instead, tie the

straining bag, and place it in the primary fermenter as well. Next, add the

following ingredients:

3 quarts water

4 cups sugar

2–3 teaspoons acid blend

2 teaspoons of pectic enzyme

1 teaspoon yeast

Cover the fermenter, and let the concoction sit for 24 hours. After the 24

hours are up, add the yeast, and cover it again. Check on the progress

daily, and stir and squeeze the pulp. When fermentation reaches about

1.030–1.040 (in about four to five days), remove the residue and siphon

the wine into a clean secondary fermenter. When the second

fermentation process is done and the gravity reaches 1.000 (two to three

weeks), repeat the remove residue + change fermenter + airlock move.

Siphon again in two months, and repeat until the liquid becomes clear.

Store in bottles, and age for three to five months before consumption.

6.1.5 Rose petal wine

Rose petal wine is considered to be one of the noblest assortments of

wines ever created. Get a primary fermenter, and add the following

ingredients:

10 cups rose petals

10 ounces of white grape concentrate

2½ pounds white granulated sugar

2 teaspoons Campden tablets

3–3½ tablespoons vinacid R

½ teaspoon yeast nutrient

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½ teaspoon grape tannin

Add half a gallon of hot water, and stir until the sugar is dissolved; once

this happens, add a half a gallon of cold water. Cover the fermenter with

a plastic sheet. Measure the temperature, and once the must hits 72–

75°F, thrown in a package of wine yeast. Ferment for about five days or

until the specific gravity gets to 1.030 (and stir daily). Strain the pulp

through nylon bags, and press. Siphon everything in gallon jugs, and

attach airlocks. Rack for the first time in 10 days, and repeat the

procedure after four weeks. Continue the process until the wine is clear

and residue free. Once this happens, bottle it and store it properly.

Storing fruits and vegetables is no easy task, especially when it comes

to storing them for longer periods of time. There are a lot of methods and

alternatives when it comes to long-term storing; you just have to find the

ones that work best for you. However, it’s common knowledge that even

for the simplest storing methods, fruits and vegetables shouldn’t be

deposited together. Fruits tend to ripen faster, which can cause a chain

reaction and spoil everything around them. Green vegetables should be

washed before placed into storage, while mushrooms and herbs should

not. Always plan ahead, and don’t be afraid to experiment a little before

going for the real thing. After all, practice makes perfect. They key to

succeeding in long-term storage is information. Take your time, and get

informed as best you can. Information is ultimate power, and it will pay

off. The more you know, the better you will be prepared.

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HOW TO EFFICIENTLY

STORE EGGS

All about fresh storage, pickling, canning,

dehydrating, or preserving eggs in mineral oil

INTRODUCTION

Eggs have a really bad reputation with many people. When it comes to

foods that do well in storage conditions, eggs aren’t necessarily among

the ones that score highest on the chart. Eggs and egg-based products

tend to spoil rather quickly because the natural proteins and nutrients

that are held within the egg start to turn; their main purpose is to serve

as raw material for constructing the embryo and to ensure a certain level

of nutrients. And if this doesn’t happen, the unstable molecular

structures will disassemble and cause the egg to spoil.

This is why eggs aren’t particularly easy to place in storage. But just

because something isn’t easy doesn’t mean it’s impossible. Man’s

ingenuity comes tothe rescue once more with solutions that will make all

the egg enthusiasts stand and salute. Various forms of egg preservation

have given great results throughout decades and centuries of trial and

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error. Pickling, canning, dehydration, and even oil preservation are

the best options a prepper has—especially one that can’t settle for

anything less than having eggs in his own storage facility. Not only that

but there are also ways of keeping eggs fresh under adequate storage

conditions.

No matter what technique you choose and no matter the shape, size,

and taste you prefer, all these methods and techniques have stood the

test of time as far as preserving freshness is concerned. As long as you

follow the steps correctly and do everything by the book, you can’t go

wrong.

HOW TO STORE FRESH EGGS

Cleaning Fresh Eggs

The first thing on the list before planning on doing anything else to eggs

that are destined for human consumption is that you’ll have to clean

them properly. Many chicken farmers or people who are used to having

fowls around the house will tell you a little dirt isn’t likely to kill anyone.

This is not entirely true. The egg has a rudimentary built-in mechanism

(the shell structure) that is supposedly enough to repel pathogens that

are responsible for diseases.

But these pathogens also

have a remarkable ability to

adapt and to be able to

overcome natural barriers. If

this happens, infestation is

imminent, and your health will

become seriously threatened.

If you buy your eggs from the

supermarket, give them a

proper washing under warm

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water to remove anything that shouldn’t be on the surface of the shell. If

you want to be extra careful, you can also add a pinch of dish detergent

to the mix.

If you happen to have your own chickens, then the cleaning bit will start

even earlier. The first step to keeping your eggs clean is to ensure that

yourhens are laying the eggs in the proper conditions. Freshly laid out

straw is the key factor. The straw doesn’t need to be changed daily

however; just throw out the large pieces of muck after collecting. There

is no such thing as an impeccable egg, so no matter how hard you work

at it, occasionally you’re going to find a bit of muck here and there. If an

egg is extra mucky, hold it under running warm water. and scrub it gently

with a cleaning pad.

Storing Fresh Eggs at Room Temperature

Fresh eggs might not last that well at room temperature, especially

because there are other factors to consider, like room humidity. Some

people seem to claim that eggs can be easily kept at room temperature

in regular humidity conditions for even up to a month before the eggs will

actually start to go bad, but this is myth, as it is very unlikely for chicken

eggs to actually last that long. The average “freshness threshold” is

somewhere between 7 and 21 days. Supermarket eggs last longer than

that, but that’s because they’re stored in way colder settings than room

temperature.

However, if cold storage isn’t an option for you, at least make sure the

room in which the eggs are kept is aired properly and dark enough.

Direct exposure to the sun will cause the eggs to spoil prematurely, even

in a matter of minutes. You can deposit the eggs on soft and comfortable

beds, be it in a basket filledwith straw, a box filled with shredded

newspaper, or egg cartons. Under these conditions, the eggs should last

without any trouble for even up to two to three weeks. Storing fresh eggs

at room temperature is fine unless you have no other option available;

but if you do, don’t bother. Stick them in the fridge as it’s less space

consuming and they’ll last much longer.

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Storing fresh eggs at low temperatures

This is the most recommended approach as far as storing fresh eggs

goes. The low temperatures provided by a functioning, standard

refrigeration unit are perfect for prolonging the life and freshness of

eggs. If fresh eggs will keep for two to three weeks at room temperature,

under cooler conditions, they can even keep for as long as four to six

months. So don’t bother keeping eggs that are destined for consumption

at room temperature unless you have no alternative.

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If by any chance a fridge won’t be available due to lack of electricity, you

can always improvise a Zeer pot. This contraption is indigenous to

people who live in hot climates. It consists of a smaller terra cotta pot

placed inside a bigger one. The space between the two pots should be

filled with sand or rubble as tightly as possible. The sand or the rubble

should be watered (with cool water only) as this will trigger thermal

isolation. Place the eggs inside the small pot,put a lid on it, and take the

Zeer pot to a dark and cool place. It’s not as efficient as a fridge, but it’s

better than room temperature storage.

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How to Determine Whether an Egg is Still Fresh or Not

Being able to distinguish a fresh egg from one that’s gone bad is an

absolute must. Rotten eggs can

be very detrimental to human

health and can cause a whole

range of problems, from mild

indigestion to life-threatening

symptoms.The starting point for

checking for bad eggs is straight

out of the henhouse. Hens tend

to be very random when

choosing spots to lay their eggs.

So upon picking up a batch of

fresh eggs, you might be getting

a few bad ones as well that you

previously missed. In order to

determine which eggs are fresh

and which are not, just take a

drinking glass and fill it with tap water. Drop each egg one at a time in

the water. The eggs that sink to the bottom are fresh and be eaten or

stored without any second thoughts. The ones that float aren’t, and they

should be discarded right away.

Another way of determining the freshness of an egg is to grab it, hold it

to your ear, and shake it gently. If you can hear the inside of the egg

slopping about inside the shell, then it’s gone bad and can’t be

consumed or stored anymore.

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HOW TO PICKLE EGGS

Pickling eggs is an extremely efficient way of making them last for long

periods of time. Pickled eggs aren’t hard to make, and they’re quite

delicious. They age really well, and it’s one of those foods whose taste

matures over time; they’re tastiest after two weeks of pickling, and they

will easily last for three to four months in proper storage conditions. If

you have your heart set on making this delicious and exotic treat, this is

what you’ll need to have:

6–10 eggs

2 tablespoons of sugar

2 cups of white vinegar (distilled)

1 tablespoon of pickling salt

1 tablespoon of pickling spice

8 teaspoons of minced garlic (dry)

half an onion (for extra flavor)

measuring utensils

knife and cutting board

a large pot

a strainer

a pitcher

a large enough jar with a good lid

The first thing to do is to boil the eggs properly. But before boiling, wash

them thoroughly! Once the eggs are clean, put them in the pot and fill it

with justenough water to cover the eggs. Put the pot on the stove, and

turn the heat to medium–low. When the water starts to simmer, start the

timer; hardboiled eggs are done in seven minutes.

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While the eggs are boiling, you can use the free time and cut the onions.

You can chop them up in small bits if you’d like, but it’s best if you don’t.

Bigger pieces are easier to stab with a fork and therefore easier to eat.

White onions or yellow are best for pickling; red onions lose much of

their flavor during the pickling process.

Once the time is up, take the pot off the stove and drain the hot water.

Take a bowl and fill it with ice-cold water, and transfer the eggs into it

one by one. This will ease the peeling process a lot. Also make sure to

use a spoon or spatula to transfer the eggs as they’ll be terribly hot after

boiling.

While the eggs are cooling down a bit, start making the brine. Mix the

salt, sugar, vinegar, garlic, and pickling spice in a large-enough pot.

Place the pot on the stove over high heat until it starts to boil; when it

does, cover and let simmer for 10–12 minutes. Stir gently every now and

then so that the sugar and salt crystals dissolve completely. If you have

any ventilation available, you should turn it on as boiling vinegar and

garlic tend to release very powerful odors.

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While the brine is simmering, you can start boiling the eggs. By now the

eggs should be cool enough, and peeling them should be as easy as it’s

ever going to get. However, just be gentle while peeling the hard-boiled

eggs. If you don’t pay attention, you could end up tearing the egg white.

Place the peeled eggs in a bowl.

After the brine has cooled down to room temperature, you can start

putting everything together. Take a large enough jar, and fill it three

quarters full with eggs and onions. Pour the brine in a pitcher first,

because pouring it into the jar directly from the pot might get a bit tricky.

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Once the jar is filled with brine, add some more onions and eggs, as

much as the jar can take without spilling. Once the jar is full to the brim,

put the lid on and cover the neck of the jar with some aluminum foil,

which you can strap in place with a rubber band. Put the jar into the

fridge, and give it two weeks for the taste to mature. Once the two weeks

are up, it’s ready for eating. It will keep in the fridge for as long as three

to four months.

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HOW TO DEHYDRATE EGGS

A dehydrated egg is a whole different approach to egg preservation. But

apart from storing eggs fresh, this is probably the easiest and safest

preservation technique there is. Although the process might change the

appearance of an egg, it makes it practical and still usable for all sorts of

baking endeavors.

Dehydrated eggs (aka powdered eggs) are a must for every serious food

storage, and you can purchase them ready-made from the Internet.

However, the prices are astronomical, and depending on the quantity,

they can vary from $25 to $200. It’s too much for an egg meal you can

make for yourself at home for an insignificant portion of that price. All

you need is a bunch of fresh eggs and a food dehydrator and you’re set

to go.

Home dehydrated eggs are better than the commercially dehydrated

ones as you have total control over the initial freshness of the eggs and

the level of cleanliness that is required before dehydration.

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Eggs can be dehydrated following two base methods: the dry method

and the wet method.

1. The dry method is where the eggs get beaten or scrambled and

cooked in a pan (just like you would normally prepare scrambled eggs).

Once cooked, they’re placed on the dehydrator for about 3.5 hours until

they become brittle. Add the brittle eggs to a blender or a food

processor, and crush them as thinly as possible. Although it’s the fastest

method available, it’s not the best for the job however.

2. The wet method (and “wet” is a term used lightly) is the path you’ll

need to take to obtain the ultimate dehydrated eggs. Just like in the case

of the dry method, beat the eggs and cook them. Place them to dry on

the dehydrator tray for about 12 hours. Many recommend setting the

dehydrator settings at a top temperature of 145°F and keeping the eggs

in for no longer than 10 hours. This is, in fact, the very same procedure

that is used for commercial dehydrated eggs.

However, this can be extremely DANGEROUS! Many USDA reports

throughout the years have drawn attention in regards to the optimum

cooking temperature for eggs. Eggs should be dehydrated at a

temperature of at least 165°F for a minimum of 10 hours. This will

ensure that the pathogens that regularly inhabit the egg will be killed

before they get the chance to infest a human host (e.g., Salmonella). If

you don’t want to seriously injure your health, you won’t lower the

temperature or the dehydration time; keep it nice and steady at 165°F for

about 10 hours, and everything will be okay.

Once the time is up, the eggs should be nice and dry by now, meaning

they’re ready for the next step. When ready, the eggs will resemble

peanut butter because they’ll have turned a dark shade of orange.

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You can always use a digital thermometer if your dehydrator doesn’t

have a built-in monitoring system. Before going into the dehydrator,

make sure to grind the eggs as fine as possible in a blender or a food

processor. The finer the end product, the better it will be dehydrated.

Dehydrated eggs are very versatile as far as the means of consumption

go. You can reheat to the original scrambled eggs form, you can spread

them on bread or muffins, you can serve them as a side dish, or you can

include them in any salad you like. They will have retained most of their

nutritional value, and that’s a big plus.

As far as storage goes, you can either freeze them or pack them

together with oxygen-absorbing packs for long-term storage.

According to the A.E.B. (American Egg Board), if stored under proper

storage conditions, they’ll last for up to two weeks to one month if kept in

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sealed containers at room temperature and up to 10 years if kept in a

proper storage space (cool, dark, and dry storage facility) along with

oxygen-absorbing packs.

HOW TO STORE EGGS IN MINERAL OIL

Storing eggs in mineral oil is a very simple and quick method when it

comes to preserving eggs. It does require a fridge, though, as the eggs

keep best at low temperatures; using a cool and dark cellar or a DIY

powerless refrigeration unit or simply keeping them at room temperature

will work fine as well, except the storage time will be dramatically

deceased.

You won’t need much to preserve eggs in mineral oil. You’ll just need

the following:

a bunch of fresh eggs (freshly gathered eggs are best)

mineral oil (found in every pharmacy)

a pair of latex or rubber gloves

an egg carton

a microwave oven

a working fridge

tap water, a bowl, and paper towels

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If you have all the right ingredients, you can start making mineral oil

eggs simply by following these eight easy steps:

1. Fill ¼ cup with mineral oil, and heat it at max power in the microwave

oven for about 10–12 seconds.

2. While the oil is heating up, you can start preparing the eggs. Give

them a proper washing under running water, or soak them in a bowl

full of water (warm at best); after you take them out of the water, dry

them really well with paper towels.

3. Once the eggs are nice and dry, place them in the egg carton, and

pull your gloves on.

4. Either dip the “tip” of the egg in oil then spread it out evenly on its

entire surface or rub a little oil on your hands and do the same; just

make sure the egg is entirely covered in oil.

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5. Once an egg is full and uniformly covered in oil (no matter if thick or

thin), you can place it in the egg carton “tip” down.

6. For optimal results, you’re going to have to flip the entire egg carton

upside down.

7. Before eating, always check if the eggs you’re about to eat have gone

bad or not. The water glass test mentioned previously works

perfectly: Fill a glass with water and drop the egg in; if it sinks =>

good egg, if it floats => bad egg.

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8. The eggs should be properly washed before breaking the shell and

cooking them; the mineral oil must be washed away completely.

Depending on where the eggs will be kept, they’ll have various shelf-

lives, as follows:

2–3 months (short-term storage) if stored at room temperature

5–8 moths (long-term storage) if stored in a cool and dark room,

ideally 65°F and 75% humidity

9–10 months (extra long-term storage) if stored in the fridge

FINAL THOUGHTS

Eggs have outstanding nutritional value, and no serious prepper should

go without them. There are many ways and methods for storing eggs, as

you can plainly see. It’s all up to you in the end; you decide the method

that will work best for you when it comes to storing eggs.

WARNING! Make sure to always wash your eggs before preparing

them for storage and before preparing them for eating. Eggs can

carry various pathogens on their shells that can cause serious

health issues. The freshness of an egg should also be checked

before placing into storage or being consumed.

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GETTING READY FOR WINTER

How to Store Vegetables and Fruits for Winter

Introduction

Storing vegetables and fruits is regarded as a basic skill to have and use

in times of need, especially among those of us that value ourselves as

hardcore preppers. But truth be told, you don’t have to be a prepper to

know everything there is to know about the basics (or even the fine

lines) of storing food for certain periods of time. It’s an easy thing to do,

especially if you take your time to prepare and do things right and with

few financial resources. If you’re determined enough and willing to put

some time and effort into it, there’s nothing you can’t achieve in the field

of storing food.

But when it comes to the above mentioned area of storing vegetables

and fruits, there are many techniques and methods to be considered,

depending partly of the produce you’re aiming to put in storage but also,

most importantly, on the period and season over which the produce will

be kept. So the methods and techniques of storing food in warmer

climates will be different from those for storing food over colder climates.

What we’ll be dealing with here is the ground rules and the most efficient

ways of keeping your vegetables and fruits as fresh as possible over

winter. All these methods have been tested and work 100% as long as

they’re done by the book. So stay true to the schematics, and you

certainly won’t regret it.

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Vegetables and Fruits – The Basics

Before considering storing or even getting ready for storage, there are a

few important basic steps to consider, without which the storage process

wouldn’t be possible. If you want to do things right and get the right

results, just follow the ABCs of winter storage:

Harvesting

First things first, and for those out there that produce their own stuff,

harvesting time and knowing when to do it is key. Knowing what keeps

best is extremely important. The late fall harvest , like the fall varieties of

cabbage, turnips, rutabagas, potatoes, garlic, and onions,will keep better

in contrast to those that are harvested earlier. It’s a matter of timing and

knowing exactly what you’re dealing with. You shouldn’t wait too long

either; zucchinis and squashes for example tend to get permanently

damaged by lower temperatures, so they should be harvested before

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temperatures reach 0°C / 30°F. Ground vegetables, like potatoes, for

example, are deep enough in the ground to be insulated from the frost,

but getting them out in mid-winter might be harder than expected

considering the ground will be frozen solid.

Another important harvesting factor to consider is

ripeness. Already ripe fruits are very unlikely to survive

long periods of time in storage. The best fruits to

consider are the ones that aren’t ripe just yet, as they’ll

last longer in storage. Certain fruits (like the Cortland or

Red Rome apple varieties) will last way longer in

storage thanks to their ability to ripen during this time.

Selectiveness

If you want only the best specimens to go into your storage facility, you’ll

need to be rigorously selective. The vegetables and fruits you plan on

saving should be nearly perfect, with no blemishes, no cuts, and no

bruises. This will ensure an extended storage period as there will be no

potential way for bacterial decomposers to enter the bodies of the stored

foods and cause them to spoil ahead of time. It takes only a minor bruise

or bad spot on a single unit to spread “fatal diseases” to the others in

record time; this is exactly what the phrase “one rotten apple spoils the

whole bunch” refers to. If a piece doesn’t seem perfect, it is best to throw

it away.

It’s important to store your food according to their levels of ripeness. For

example, small potatoes shouldn’t be kept in the same place as the big

and matured potatoes. This is because the small potatoes contain high

levels of sugar that haven’t been converted to starch yet. It takes only

one small potato to be infected by a foreign pathogen; fermentation of

the sugar-filled potato might cause it to explode and spread the

infectious agent to the others, and they’ll go bad in no time. So based on

this premise, it is best to eat the small potatoes first and save the larger

ones for last, as they’re unlikely to explode and cause havoc.

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Cleanliness

There are other agents that might cause your stored harvest to go bad

apart from germs and fungi. The harvest should be inspected carefully

before going into storage to make sure they’re not carrying any

earthworms, spiders, or who knows what else larvae or insects that

might die and start decomposing everything that you worked so hard for.

Some people go for the “raw” method of storing potatoes, but this isn’t

necessarily a good idea. It’s recommended to wash them before storing

as dirt might act as a catalyst for rot.

Cleanliness also consists of removing the stems as they constitute an

entry point for detrimental agents. Remove leaves as well. The less

excess material your vegetables and fruits have, the fewer chances you

have to wake up one day and find most of your work (if not all of it)

reduced to a heap of worthless material. Don’t skimp on the cleaning

part.

Moisture

This is the most important aspect of storing, and it’s to be taken very

seriously. Almost all vegetables and fruits that go into storage with

excess moisture on their bodies will most likely decay sooner or later.

Only carrots have a particular resistance to excess moisture (as they’re

traditionally stored in moist sand), but everything else doesn’t. So after

washing potatoes, for example, they should be deposited in a cool and

ventilated area for about five to seven days; this will remove the excess

moisture and will result in the formation of the winter skin, which is

tougher and more resistant. Potatoes should be dried off in a dark place

and under no circumstances in sunlight; the radiation from the sun’s rays

will cause the potatoes to turn green and synthesize solanine, which is a

toxic chemical compound.

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All fruits (absolutely no exceptions) should be dried and aired before

going into storage. They should be encouraged to develop hard and

mature skins before they go into storage. But it’s not only fruits that are

extremely sensitive to moisture; so are garlics and onions for example.

The traditional way of storing them is to hang them out by the bulb in a

well-aired location.

Temperature and humidity levels

There are various kinds and types of vegetables and fruits, and they are

accustomed to various types of climates and ambient conditions.

Accordingly, the storage temperature and levels of humidity will vary

among species. Many vegetables can withstand extremely low

temperatures (32°F to 38°F), while others (like sweet potatoes) can only

handle 55°F to 60°F.

Many vegetables also have a high tolerance to a humid environment,

while others do not. Lead scientific researchers from the University of

Wisconsin have released a detailed chart about the most common fruits

and vegetables and their tolerance to temperature and humidity in

storage facilities.

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Storage Facilities

Choosing the right storage space for the job is probably the most

relevant part of winter storage. You should consider the available space

you have, the amount of fruits and vegetables you want to store, the

complexity of the project, and, last but not least, how much everything is

going to cost. The average winter storage space should be good enough

to shelter your stored food under the right conditions from roughly

November to May. There are many options available, so just pick the

one that will suit your needs best.

The Root Cellar

The root cellar is the standard and most commonly used winter storage

space there is. It’s a fairly cold and relatively moist spot (32°F–40°F and

90%–95% relative humidity) that will accommodate most of the fruits and

vegetables that are normally preserved over the winter. The term itself is

rather loose, as a root cellar can be anything that remains just above

freezing, from a small crawl space under the porch, to a bucket in the

ground, to a cement enclosure built on the side of a hill, to a random,

unheated section of the basement. But even in such random

surroundings, the stored vegetables or fruits will need proper ventilation

and insulation to be fully protected against temperature fluctuations.

Also, an extra level of protection against rodents or all other sorts of

invaders that might damage or eat your stored food should be

considered.

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The Cold Room (non-basement)

This project might seem similar to a regular basement root cellar, but it

actually isn’t. It should consist of a finished but unheated room, which

differs in construction from a basement. If you have such a room at your

disposal, you could turn it into the perfect storage space in no time; it’d

be even better if the room is partially underground.

The trick is to actually build or modify the room as if it was an actual

exterior space. The most important aspect that will make a world of

difference is to insulate the interior walls and the ceiling but to leave the

exterior walls uninsulated. Add a vapor barrier to the warm side of the

structure (the house), and put in an exterior door that is highly insulated

with weather stripping to the cold room. As a final touch, you’ll need to

add two adjustable, screened vents, which will ensure the room is

properly ventilated and that excess moisture will be ejected. One should

be a high, warm air outlet, while the other should be a low, cool air

intake.

Any such type of cold room needs a control method for airflow,

temperature, and humidity. On average, your cold room should be set to

a base temperature of 32°F to 60°F and a level of humidity in the range

of 60% to 90% RH (relative humidity).

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The Buried Container

Buried containers in the ground can make very efficient winter storage

facilities for all sorts of fruits and vegetables, especially root crops. The

container should be eco-friendly and should be properly cleaned

(preferably new) before being used as a storage space; it’s a must that

such a container hasn’t been previously filled with any sort of chemicals

or substances that might jeopardize your stored food or, worse, your

health.

Anything will do, from new metal containers to plastic garbage cans or

plastic bins. Dig a hole in the ground large enough to fit the container.

Locate a suitable area near the house but away from crowded places or

circulated roads; car fumes should be nowhere near your storage facility

(so keep away from the garage as well). On the ground, lay down a layer

of rocks for extra stability. Place the container in just so that it sticks out

about two inches above the ground.

The container you choose should have holes in the bottom in order to

drain excess moisture, which could harm the fruits or vegetables in

storage. If it doesn’t come with holes in it (which will most probably be

the case), you can drill them yourself. Fill a first portion of the container,

and add a first layer of straw on top, which will act as a cushion and as a

moisture absorber. Load the next portion, and repeat the procedure until

the container is full; when full, put the lid on. Cover the top of the

container with 2–2.5 feet of insulating material. If there are rodents in the

area, it’s best to add a covering of ¼” hardware cloth.

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The Pit

The storage pit is best done in the shape of a cone. It can be used to

store decent amounts of vegetables, such as carrots, potatoes,

cabbage, parsnips, beets and turnips or even fruits like winter apples or

pears. You can either make the pit at ground level or dig a hole about

seven to eight inches deep in the ground. (Just make sure the location is

well drained before you start as moisture will spoil the fruits quickly.)

Place any sort of bedding material on the ground that you can muster:

leaves, straw, etc. Once the base of the structure is complete, you can

start adding the vegetables or the fruits of your choosing in the cone-

shaped pile. Fruits and vegetables should never be stored in the same

pit as the high excess of sugar in the fruits might have unwanted

consequences on the vegetables. Cover the amount of produce with

bedding material; once you’re done, add an extra layer of soil (4 inches)

to toughen everything up.

If you’re going for a smaller pit, you should allow the bedding

material over the vegetables to go through the soil at the top of the

pile; this will improve ventilation. Take a wooden board or a piece

of metal, and cover the mouth of the cone; this will serve as a lid.

In order to keep the lid in place, you can add a stone or a similar

heavy object on top of the improvised lid to keep it in place. Add

several layers of straw as well.

If you’re going for a larger pit, you should place two to three stakes

or boards through the pile of vegetables (or fruits) as a flue. You

can cap the flue with two boards nailed together at an angle.

It’s best to go for several small pits rather than a single large one. The

pit can be closed again once it’s opened; it’s pretty much a one-time

thing. Place several sorts of vegetables in each pit; this way you’ll have

an assortment of vegetables.

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The Tile Storage Space

This type of storage will work well in any sort of well-drained outdoor

area. The area should be chosen carefully and should be in a shaded

and place in both winter and summer. It should be away from any sort of

water overflow. It can be placed anywhere from under the kitchen door

to the nearest sprout in the garden.

You can make it as big and as wide as you like, but the recommended

dimension for a standard prepper (one that’s not making industrial

provisions) should be 24 x 24 inch so that a 6.5-bushel basket (24 x 24

inches) will fit like a glove.

Drain tile is the best option you have; it’s best adapted for storing

vegetables and fruits that require a cool and moist storage facility.

However, if you’re having trouble finding drain tiles and you’re out of

time, you may use even less efficient products. But at least be prepared

for the downsides that may come from using other sorts of material. If

you’ll use wood, this will rot sooner or later, and the odor will be

absorbed by the vegetables or fruits you’ve got in storage. Metal is not a

good thermal isolator, as it will easily conduct heat and cold alike.

It’s unadvisable to use anything other than drain tile. The risk is way too

high, and your stocks will most probably spoil sooner or later. Don’t

leave it to chance; only drain tile will do.

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Dig a hole in the ground so that the tile fits in just right. Use any sort of

measuring tool to determine the outside diameter. The hole should be

dug about six inches deeper than the whole length of the tile. After

you’re done digging the hole, get three bricks (standard sized) and place

them on the bottom as a base; place them on ends, the flat side to the

wall. This should leave about eight inches of exposed soil below the tile.

Lower the tile into the hole, and mound the soil up all the way to the lip

of the tile.

To ensure proper air flow, place under the bulked produce a few

shovelfuls of coarse drainage material. After precooling, the storage

space is ready for use. Make sure the vegetables that you’re placing in

the storage space are already cool as warm vegetables will raise the

temperature on the inside.

To top it all off, you must add on top of the tile (over the lip) a 36 x 36-

inch square piece of gravel screen or, better yet, hardware cloth. This

will act as an air vent but also as a barrier against rodents and other

animals that might be out to get whatever goods you have placed in

storage. It will also act as a buffer, preventing the insulating material

from falling on the produce.

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The Makeshift Cellars

The makeshift cellars are quick to improvise and to set up and will

accommodate your stored vegetables and fruits over the winter in proper

storage conditions.

Attics are suited for many types of produce as far as winter

storage is concerned. If you have a dry and warm enough attic, it

will do perfectly for storing onions and garlic and perhaps all sorts

of dry herbs. However, if the attic should become extremely cold

during winter time, you can rotate the food. If by summertime it

becomes too hot and humid, move the produce or consume it.

Basement utility rooms can be very warm and dry, especially if

it’s one of those rooms that’s equipped with a furnace or a boiler.

They’re the perfect spot for keeping squashes, pumpkins, onions,

and garlic.

A fridgewill work fine too, especially an energy efficient one.

Almost anything can go into a fridge for keeping, especially locally

grown vegetables and fruits. It’s a very practical and convenient

method as long as you have access to electricity or at least a

generator.

IMPORTANT!

No matter which storing method you choose, you’ll

need to monitor storage conditions constantly

(temperature and humidity) using a thermometer and

a hygrometer. Check storage conditions once a day,

and check the overall status of the produce at least

two times a month. The storage area should be

thoroughly cleaned and sanitized before filling it with vegetables and

fruits.

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Vegetables

Potatoes

Potatoes should ideally be

prepared before storing for

long periods of time. Curing

is the best method for

winter-proofing potatoes,

and to do it, you’ll need to

remove any damaged, bruised, green, or soft potatoes from the bunch.

Eat the ones that don’t seem fit for storage immediately; the ones that

seem spoiled beyond redemption should be thrown away.

The firm and unblemished potatoes that fit the description for storage

material should be ideally placed in a single layer, in the dark, at 45°F to

60°F for a two-week curing period; during this period, they’re best kept

covered loosely with newspapers or in slightly opened paper bags. After

the two-week curing time, you can store them in the permanent winter

storage facility in a cold (32°F to 40°F) and dry (60%to 70% RH)

location.

Potatoes are best kept in complete darkness, in either paper bags or in

covered wooden boxes; burying them in dry sand also works. If

sprouting occurs, it’s an indicator of a higher than normal temperature or

as a result of being in the proximity of onions or garlic.

Root Vegetables

Root vegetables consist of a large

array of various vegetables, like

beets, carrots, celeriac,

horseradish, parsnips,

rutabagas, salsifies, turnips, and

winter radishes. They’re very

resistant to low temperatures

and can withstand freezing

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temperatures of about 28°F for several weeks in the ground with heavy

mulching.

Parsnip, salsify, and horseradish can be kept in the ground, as long as it

is well mulched, until spring time. The extreme heat will intensify sugar

production, which in turn will make them taste even sweeter than

normal. Winter radishes, turnips, and rutabagas give off potent odors, so

don’t keep them indoors, or you’ll come to regret it sooner than you

think. The cellar works only for beets, carrots, horseradish, parsnips, and

salsifies. Cellar storage should begin with cutting off the tops and leaving

a one-inch stem. When you’re done, place the produce in either boxes

or baskets.

To ensure the right levels of moisture

in dry storage places, you can add

layers of sphagnum moss or sand to

the crops. Root crops like low

temperatures (32°F–40°F) and high

levels of humidity (80%–90% HR).

Garlic and Onions

Onions and garlic are

pretentious vegetables

when it comes to storage.

So before locking them

away for long periods of

time, you should cure them

first, or dry them in a well-

ventilated place (a shed, a

covered porch, or an attic)

for a period of two to three weeks. They might dry up sooner than

expected; check their skin for confirmation. If it makes a rustling sound

to the touch and it feels as if it could easily break even to the slightest

touch, they’re ready for storage.

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The standard white large onions or the sweeter kinds don’t do so well in

storage. They keep for far less time than the medium-sized yellow or red

sorts, which have a far better storage life. Both garlic and onions prefer

cold but not freezing temperatures, so keeping them in the range of 40°F

to 50°F will suffice. Dryness is also a key factor as the values should be

somewhere in between 60%and 70% RH.

With the proper care and attention,

those that want to keep their garlic

and onions intact in the ground

can. With heavy mulching and a lot

of care, they can take even

temperatures as low as 34°F.

Cabbages

Cabbages can be easily stored in

outdoor storage rooms, hung

upside down, or left in the ground

with heavy mulching. If you

decide on storing cabbages, you’ll

need to pick the firmest and

solidest cabbage heads you can

get your hands on.

The plant is easily pulled out of

the ground after the first frost. The first thing to do after collecting the

cabbages is to trim off the leaves. The cabbage is one of those

vegetables that should under no circumstances be kept in the house; its

potent and nasty odor will drive you out of the house in a matter of a few

days. The best way to keep it is in storage pits or buried containers, and

don’t mix it with anything else, as it can have a negative impact on the

flavor of pretty much anything else.

You can wrap each head individually in paper or place them on shelves

(if you plan on placing them in a cellar) on wooden tiles, but make sure

to leave a couple of inches in between them.

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Tomatoes

Tomatoes aren’t vegetables at all;

they’re actually fruits. But since

they’re not known as fruits but

rather as vegetables in pop

culture, it’s best they’re included

here. They ripen easily, and it’s

easy to figure out when they’re

ripe and ready to be picked. But

for storage, it’s best to pick them early so that they’ll continue the

ripening process in storage; this will prolong the storage process.

Tomatoes can be stored in more ways than one; it’s only a matter of

what you prefer. If you have several tomatoes still on the vine and plenty

of space for storage, you can pull the entire tomato vine out of the

ground and hang it in storage as it is.

Picking green tomatoes is the best

thing to do as far as storage time is

concerned. They should be

individually wrapped in newspaper

and maintained at a constant

temperature of 55°F, where they

will slowly ripen. If your storage

facility meets the requirements,

your tomatoes can last even up to five or six months in storage.

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Fruits

Apples and Pears

Apples and pears are distinct

fruits, and the winter storage

methods are similar. They

should be stored as close to

the freezing point as possible,

so anywhere in the range of

32°F will suffice. Humidity is

also an important factor as it

should constantly stay in the range of 80% to 90% HR at all times.

They sit comfortably layered in sand, sphagnum moss, or sawdust. You

could easily store them in well-ventilated plastic bags, but it works better

if you wrap each piece individually in paper and layer them in boxes.

However, if you decide to go for the plastic bags, you should periodically

(once every two days) check them for condensation as moisture buildup

can cause them to deteriorate quickly.

Apples and pears suffer mild

fermentation processes while in storage

due to the high amounts of sugars they

retain. As a result, they release ethylene

gas; this is why they should be stacked

together but apart from each other,

without touching.

Grapes

Grapes are easier stored in

the form of jam, jelly, or

alcoholic beverages, but

they will keep in fruit form as

well. Taste the batch in

order to determine the levels

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of ripeness and flavor. Grapes can ripen without going through a frost.

Before storing, make sure to clip the clusters from the vine and deposit

them in a cool and dark cellar or a similar storage facility for a period of

about four to six weeks to dry. They can last even longer depending on

the sort and storage conditions. They’re best kept in boxes or crates,

with layers of straw in between. The straw will cushion the grapes and

absorb excess moisture.

Grapes are very sensitive when it comes to

picking up foreign scents. In this respect, it’s

best to keep them away from other fruits or

vegetables as this might spoil their taste and

overall flavor. It’s not a big deal if they’re

meant for eating, but this will definitely

matter if you store them for wine making.

Citrus Fruits

Citrus stores easily for the

winter as their tough skin and

high amounts of citric acid give

them a real advantage in cold

storage facilities. In fact, the colder it is, the better. They’re not lovers of

extreme temperatures, but they keep really well in the range of 40°F to

50°F. Oranges are by far the more resistant of the whole bunch and can

take temperatures even as low as 32°F. As far as humidity goes, keep it

in the range of 60% to 70% HR, and you’ll have no problems. They’re

not fond of high levels of humidity, so monitor them carefully.

They’re sensitive to mold and will spoil easily if not deposited correctly.

They’re best kept in baskets or in mesh bags in order to maximize air

flow. Constant ventilation will reduce the pathogens (bacteria and fungi)

that cause the citrus fruits to spoil ahead of their time.

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Final Thoughts

Fruits and vegetables can be easily stored over the winter as long as

you follow the guidelines. The main popular belief is that vegetables and

fruits are best kept processed over winter, whether they’re canned,

pickled, or jellified (jams and jellies in the case of fruits). But as it’s plain

to see, keeping them in a fresh state (as fresh as possible) is also

doable. It’s only a matter of patience and knowledge.

Do a few practice tries before you do these techniques for real. They’re

not necessarily hard, but they might not be achievable from the first try.

If they don’t work out, don’t worry. Practice makes perfect, so try and try

again.

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Growing Mushrooms with Minimal

Costs

A step-by-step guide on how to grow your own

mushrooms

Preface

The following book aims to present mushroom mycelium production in a

domestic system and growing 10 species of edible and medicinal

mushroom in a farm system in both rural and urban areas. The

technologies include the working steps, household materials, recyclable

materials from areas such as the kitchen, zootechny, wood processing,

waste of medicinalherbs, and paper recycling as well as those from

agriculture, tree nurseries, orchards, vineyards, hay, reed, turf, and so

on.

Used spaces should befree, abandoned, forest salvages and outdoors

depending on thegeographical locationandaltitude. Mushroomscan be

grown onabalcony, in a closet, in anunusedor unfinished room, on

terraces, in semi-basements, in cellars, in underground spaces, in

unusedcellars or garages, in warehouses, etc. Methods and

technologieswill be presented that require minimal orzero cost;

innovation, initiative, and the desire to work depend on you.

Why mushrooms? They are rich in minerals, B vitamins, oligomers,

antioxidants, polysaccharides, and yeast and they produce chemical-

free vegetable protein without toxic additives, sodium, or fat. Mushroom

proteinis second inthe world only after that of soybeans. But as you may

know, soy has been genetically modified, and its long-term

consequences are unknown; onthe other hand, mushroomsare natural,

without any laboratory interventions. Inaddition, mushroom scan even be

medicinal and are without side effects.

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Chapter 1: General Considerations

Short history

The firs tholders of knowledge about mushrooms seem to be the

Chinese, who left records as early as 533 BC. Writings in the ancient

Greek and Latin languages have reached us thanks to Horace, a Roman

poet (65‒8 BC), who said, “It is easier to despise gold and silver than to

give up a dish of mushrooms.” But some authors believe that the first

fungi date to almost 550 million years ago, and they were not composed

of distinct morphological parts. The fungal fruit body consists of a hat

and leg, and somewere discovered in the Dominican Republic that dated

to 40 million years ago.

Greek physician and botanist Dioscorides (1st century BC), a native of

Asia Minor, in his book, About Means of Healing, reminds us that

mushrooms were considered a medicine of plant origin. Mushrooms with

therapeutic action are mentioned in the year 1100 BC, in a reference to

Ergot.

Also, Pliny the Elder (23/24‒79AD), the Roman historian and writer, in

his paper, Historia Natural, wrote about edible mushrooms. Information

about mushroom crops date to the second century BC, when the Greek

physician Nicander advised his contemporaries to grow mushrooms in

tree hollows, which they filled with manure to retain moisture.

At first mushrooms were harvested from the spontaneous flora and only

after the year 1600 AD did people foresee the opportunity tog row them.

Notes remain in literature since 1650, and in 1810, in Paris, they

cultivated “champignons” in abandoned quarries after stone extraction.

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In the 21st century we are stil lpromoting mushrooms in developed

countries, and even more so in poorer countries, by recommending the

intake of protein similar to the collagen found in animal meat.

Benefits of mushroom cultivation

Cultivating mushrooms is an activity of which many people know too

little, while others know nothing at all; so in coming to their aid, I will try

to explain what the benefits of cultivating mushrooms are. Edible

mushrooms are a valuable food product due to their rich nutrient content

and their specific flavor and aroma, being very popular in all countries

andin all seasons.They can be eaten both fresh (raw for some species

or as dishes prepared following different recipes) or preserved. It should

be noted that preserving mushrooms does not change the organoleptic

characteristics, meaning taste and smell.

Regarding their food value, mushrooms complement other foods or

ingredients well and improves the quality of dishes. The delicious

mushroom white sauce stew with polenta can rival the chicken with

sauce or mushroom sponge schnitzel (Pleurotus ostreatus), which

competes with poultry.

Another advantage of these crops is the use of existing facilities that are

not currently being used (valid for small and medium-sized farms). This

includes green houses, plastic green houses, growth rooms, stables,

sheds, basements, storehouses, balconies, terraces, closets, and other

such facilities. Any small repairs, cleaning, disinfection, and provision of

plumbing, lighting, ventilation or heating can make these unused spaces

a means of generating profit; even in big households or companies, we

can make use of abandoned spaces. Where they do not exist, we can

build modern industrial mushroom farms.

Mushrooms, having a short period of development (100–120 days from

sowing to the last harvesting and 21 to 35 days from sowing to

emergence), can be grown in all periods ofthe year. Any mushroom

farmer may have a production surplus, with opportunities for their crop to

be absorbed by the market, especially in the winter, when other fresh

vegetables are found in small quantities. No other crop gives you the

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advantage to achieve two to four or even nine cycles (crops) per year on

the same surface.

Another advantage of mushroom growing is that being small plants, in

certain periods of development they do not require or are indifferent to

light, so they occupy limited spaces in relation to the quantity of

produced harvest. For this reason, they can be grown on several levels,

thus saving space. At well-organized mushroom farms, they can grow

crops on three to six levels on the same square meter of surface.

Return on investment from mushroom cultivation is a given by the fact

that most mushroom species can be consumed (are edible) with all parts

(hat, leg, cuticle, gills), thus making the percent of usability 99–100%.

From a financial standpoint, mushroom cultivation provides a rapid

movement of funds invested (three to four months), which is very

advantageous and allows growers with less funds to engage in this

activity. Mushroom farms, which are usually in small and medium

households and in the immediate vicinity of the house, provide a better

supervision of the work and simultaneously save time compared to crops

grown at farther distances.

In this way it is possible for prompt intervention to take place when

unwanted problems arise in connection with proper functioning of certain

sectors of the mushroom farm.

Work in a mushroom farm —being varied— is not boring or extremely

difficult. It is performed after careful study in technological programs and

carefully planned, taking into account the stages of fungi.

Work is performed in perfect order and cleanliness, hygiene being one of

the basic conditions for obtaining good yields and avoiding failure. It is

known that in some periods of the year, because they are no longer

available in supermarkets,t hose who harvest from spontaneous flora (in

the wild), will look for them in other places, usually near roads. These

amateur collectors can not accurately distinguish the edible mushrooms

from those that are toxic or poisonous. In such cases, poisoning or death

can occur.

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By conducting cultivation of edible mushrooms, confusion between

edible mushrooms and toxic or poisonous ones is removed, thus

eliminating any risk.

A number of factors contribute to achieving high yields, both

quantitatively and qualitatively, but the materials that take part in

preparing the nutritious substrate are of particular importance. The big

advantage represented by growing mushrooms is that in general, these

materials are found in every rural household as secondary agricultural

production (straw, chaff, stalks and corn cobs, stalks of sorghum, alfalfa,

pea vines, soybeans, potatoes, beans, parings, sawdust, or animal

manure mixed with bedding, which usually is comprised of everything

from straw to sawdust, wood chips, or sunflower shells. Horse manure is

of great importance.

If someone desiring to grow mushrooms does not have the space

available, he can go to rural areas to a relative or a friend to prepare the

compost, put it in bags, inoculate it with mycelium, and then transport it

to the urban area. If we truly want to grow mushrooms, solutions can be

found.

In one of the techniques described in this book combines two or more of

these materials to obtain compost used in the cultivation of Agaricus

bisporus, Agaricus edulis, and Agaricus brasiliensis mushrooms.

Some cellulosic waste, which may form the crop substrate for Pleurotus

spp. mushroom, can be obtained without any costs, such as the flakes of

flax and hemp, aromatic and medicinal herbs waste, sawdust and wood

chips, and waste paper (old newspapers, etc.).

Most plant species are grown in two ways: by seed and by cuttings,

layering, splitting bush, etc.). Mushrooms, lower plants in evolutionary

terms, are multiplied in two ways: by spores, which by analogy

correspond to higher plants seeds, and by mycelium, which is born

through spore germination occurring when they find favorable

conditions. When germinating, the spores emit some very thin filaments

called hyphae, which redouble and interlace to form a mass that is more

or less compact, called mycelium. In mushroom cultivation, it is used as

propagating material.

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Obtaining mycelium requires specialized conditions and personnel. In

small and medium households, in general, the conditions for producing it

can’t be met, and therefore laboratories and mycelium production plants

are available, which, on request (firm preorder), provide it at a

surcharge.

This measure represents a great advantage that is appreciated by

growers. The substrate used (at the end of harvesting) is not lost, and

the compost discharged from “champignons” still contains sufficient

nutritious elements suited for other species of plants and can be used as

a very valuable fertilizer in farming, floriculture, tree nurseries, and

vineyards as well as inthe establishment of new orchards.

The cellulosic substrate used after harvesting Pleurotus mushrooms can

be used to feed animals such as ruminants, pigs, and poultry. The wood

waste can be used as firewood for heating crop spaces or disinfecting a

new substrate.

In conclusion, even the materials available after growing mushrooms

can be exploited. The activity on a mushroom farm can be performed by

all family members— parents, grandparents, children, and people with

disabilities— each according to their own strength. But this activity is not

recommended for those who are allergic to fungi spores; those that

suffer from asthma, tuberculosis, or other infectious diseases; nor

pregnant women.

Morphology of mushrooms

All plants on Earth, from the lower ones on the scale of evolution to the

giant baobab tree spread throughout tropical Africa, whose very thick

trunk can reach 10 meters in diameter, have the same fundamental form

of organization: the cell. The cell is one of the simplest anatomical units

of living matter and is formed generally of protoplasm, a nucleus, and

the cell membrane. Like any living organism, mushrooms are composed

of one or more cells; those composed of a single cell are called

unicellular,while those composed of multiple cells are called multicellular

mushrooms.

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The structure of large multicellular mushrooms

Mushrooms are eukaryotic organisms that feed through absorption,

which develops a diffuse vegetative apparatus that is branched andt

ubular, and they also reproduce through spores. The most complex

structure of the complex can be found in mushrooms of the Agaricales

order, Basidiomicetes class.

The mushroom has two distinct parts: the cap and the leg.

The cap, or pileus, consists of the cuticle, pulp, or flesh, the growing

area located at the edge between the foot and cap.

The cap can vary in shape: flat,

convex, with a rounded or pointed tip,

bell-shaped or conical, concave or

deep at the center, perfectly round,

cup-shaped, etc. The cuticle or cap

leather has a different structure from

that of the pulp and is made up of

several cell structures of different

shapes.

Carpophores of Agaricus spp.

The cuticle is colored differently and can have cracks, stains, etc. In

some species, they come off easily, while others cannot be removed. In

mushrooms, the coloris given by pigments that are located in the

cytoplasm. The Agaricus bisporus mushroom shows strainsor hybrids of

white, beige, andbrown. The brown ones are also called portabella or

portobello. The specie Agaricus brasiliensis has a creamy color, and A.

edulisis only white.

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Agaricus sp. Mushroom with closed vellum

The flesh or pulp of the cap can be thick or thin, of fleshy consistency,

soft, compact, gelatinous, or crumbly, depending on the species.

The gills have two sides and one edge. They can be thick or thin, wide

or narrow, flat or narrow, with a plain or serrated edge, dense or spaced,

etc. and are arranged radially from the center to the edge of the cap. In

ratio with the foot, the gills can be free (apart from the leg), overgrown

with the foot (collected), or prolonged on the foot. All of the gills form the

hymenium, where spores are produced.

The hymenium is protected at the bottom by the vellum, also called

partial veil, which is attached to the edge of the cap and on the leg, thus

creating an empty space called subhymeneal room. The spot where the

foot comes into contact with the cap is the growth area of the mushroom.

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The foot, or stripes, is the

part of the basidiofruit or

carpophores that supports

the cap, making a common

body with it. It can be

atached to the cap as

follows: central, eccentric, or

sideways. The shape ofthe

foot can be cylindrical

orstumpy (thicker at the

middle towards the bottom

and thinned at both ends),

claviform, fusiform,

filamentous, or bulb shaped.

Other criteria are mell, taste, or an aromathatis easily noticeable in some

species of mushroom.

Nutrition

Basidiomycetes are mushrooms with separated hyphae. The fruiting

body is formed on the mycelium. It consists of cap and leg formed of

hyphae adhering closely to one another. In some species, the bottom of

the cap consists of countless gills or blades (laminated mushrooms).

Groups of mushroom formed from mycelium from compost and peat

Figure 1Agaricusbisporus mushroom with scales

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Different stages of development

Mushrooms, as plants without chlorophyll, have a heterotrophic nutrition,

namely, they use organic substances synthesized by other plants for

their food.

Regardless of the nutrient substrate on which it is installed, the nutrition

mechanism of superior mushrooms is generally as follows: The

mycelium comes in contact with the nutrient substrate through the

enzymes it contains, and it decomposes complex organic substances

into simpler products, which are absorbed.

The absorption process takes place all over the mycelium surface, such

as through certain specialized organs like rhizoids in saprophytic

mushrooms. The penetration of organic substances found in the soil

solution nutrient or nutritive substrate in fungus cells is done through the

process of osmosis, namely, moving from a solution with lower

concentration to a solution with higher concentration through the process

of endosmosis.

Caution! When cultivating mushrooms, an overdose of nutrients can

cause the reverse phenomenon of exosmosis, in which case it prevents

the formation of mushrooms. To prevent such an unwanted eventuality,

it is necessary to understand both the nutrient needs of mushrooms and

the nutrient substrate content in these elements. This information may

be obtained through chemical laboratory analysis or by following the

compost recipes.

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Chemical composition and nutritional value

Edible mushrooms are considered foods with high nutritional value.

Their chemical composition varies from one species to another,

depending on the stage of development, on the nutrient substrate on

which they grow, the component under consideration, environmental

conditions, growth period, etc.

Thus they contain water (82-92%), organic compounds (6-16.5%), and

minerals (0.5% -1.5%). The organic substances contain proteins (3-5%),

carbohydrates (1-3%), fat (0.5-1%), nitrogen-free substances (1.5 to

7%), and other organic substances (organic acids, enzymes, vitamins,

tannins, and essential oils, about 0.5%). The nutritional value of a food

product depends mainly on two factors: the chemical composition and

the digestibility of the compounds that are included in it.

The chemical composition varies from species to species, depending on

the stage of development of the mushrooms, on the nutrient substrate

on which they develop, on the part of the carpophore taken into account

(cap, leg, etc.), climatic conditions, thegrowing period,etc.The

digestibilityof varioussubstancesmay change incomparison with other

substances contained ina food. Viewed fromthis perspective,

mushrooms are foodswith a highn utritional value.

The protein content of fresh mushrooms is 3-5%, depending on the

species and hybrid. One hundred to two hundred grams of dried

mushrooms consumed daily can be a substitute for meat.

Mushrooms have a particular taste and aroma and therefore can be

eaten as a main food by diabetics because it does not contain starch,

which is converted to sugar in the body. Here are the contents of 100g

fresh champignon mushrooms:

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Chemical analysis of Agaricus bisporus mushrooms

Current number Name Content

1 Protein 3.6-4g 2 Carbohydrates 1.5g 3 Lipids 0.3g 4 Dietary Fibers 2.5g

Vitamins Mg 1 Vitamin A 5 2 Vitamin C 0.12

3 Vitamin D 0.10 4 Vitamin E 0.12 5 Thiamine – Vitamin

B1 0.03

6 Riboflavin – Vitamin B2

0.41

7 Niacin – Vitamin B3 4.1 8 Vitamin B12 0.16 Minerals Mg

1 Sodium 7.0 2 Potassium 305 3 Calcium 2 4 Iron 0.2

5 Zinc 0.2 6 Magnesium 9 7 Phosphorus 0.13

8 Chloride 0.8 9 Iodine 0.017 10 Manganese 0.57 11 Copper 0.65

Cholesterol 0

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Agaricus bisporus mushrooms, with their vitamins and minerals, are considered energizing and mineralizing foods and are recommended during convalescence. Some nutritionists noted that these mushrooms have anti-allergic virtues. In 2005, in the U.S., ergothioneine was foundin Agaricus b. And

Pleurotus spp. mushrooms. It is a powerful antioxidant that is not

diminished during the thermic preparation of mushrooms.

Antioxidants, selenium and vitamin D content recommend mushrooms

as immunity boosters. The selenium and zinc content detected in 190

species of mushrooms are recommended to fight against stress.

The content ofamino acids of two species of Pleurotus

Amino acid mg.g-1 nitrogen assimilable albumin s.a

Pl.ostreatus Pl.sajor-caju

1. Asparticacid 564-638 715 2. Glutamineacid 890-1266 - 3. Alanine 404-451 443 4. Arginine 306-374 441

5. Cysteine 29-32 90 6. Histidine 87-120 157 7. Phenylalanine 216-260 394 8. Glycine 273-315 353

9. Isoleucine 266-299 313 10. Leucine 310-610 478 11. Lysine 250-321 399

12. Methionine 90-100 131 13. Proline 269-321 280 14. Serine 271-345 331 15. Tyrosine 184-210 445

16. Threonine 264-324 353

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17. Tryptophan 61-97 88 18. Valine 309-364 377

Mushrooms contain non-reducing trehalose, which gives two molecules

of glucose. The fact that mushrooms contain small amounts of fat

recommends them as a dietetic food, and they can be aten without

restriction in terms of quantity and without fear of gaining weight.

Mushrooms do not contain cholesterol.

Fatty acidcontentinP.florida

Fatty acid Relative amount %

1.Linoleic acid 72.81 2.Acidoleic 13.91 3.Acidpalmitic 11.12

4.Acidmyristic 1.80 5.Acidulpalmitoleic 0.36 6.Acizisaturates 12.92 7. Unsaturatedfats 87.08

Fragrant mushrooms or shiitake have high nutritional value, and they are

rich in protein, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins. They contain

more than 30 enzymes (including methionine, cystine, valine, glutamic

acid, isoleucine, cellulase, and asparagine) and are very useful for the

proper functioning of the human body.

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Shiitake dried and powdered

Chemical composition looks like this:

Carbohydrates - 7.5 g

Protein - 15-35%

Calories - 39

Cholesterol - 1 g

Thiamine - 0.8 mg

Riboflavin - 0.85 mg

Niacin - 5.5 mg

Vitamin D 2-200 I.U. According to other authors, chemical analysis of these mushrooms is as follows:

Water - 90%

10-40% protein

2-8% fat

3-28% carbohydrate

3-32% fiber

8-10% ash

Mushrooms contain vitamins B1, B2, B12, provitamin D and ergosterol.

As far as minerals, they contain, iron, zinc, magnesium, phosphorus,

potassium, sodium, calcium, manganese, and selenium.

Amino acidcontent in grams/100g ofdried mushrooms is as follows:

Arginine-7.0

Histidine-1.8

Leucine-7.0

Isoleucine-4.4

Lysine-3.5

Tyrosine-3.5

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Threonine- 5.2

Methionine-1.8

Phenylalanine-5.3

Valine- 5.2

Regular consumption of shiitake has a beneficial effect on mood and thenervous system. The most important feature of the amino acid composition of the mushrooms is the presence of sufficient quantities of essential amino acids.

Shiitake mushrooms contain vitamins, both soluble and fat-soluble. The

caps contain many vitamins, such as thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, and

biotin. Particularly valuable is that these mushrooms contain a significant

amount of vitamin D, which does not exist in other plants.

Once heated, shiitake mushrooms may lose some vitamins. The content

of immunomodulatory polysaccharide decreases under prolonged

boiling, but practically, it does not change during the correct drying of the

mushrooms. Shiitake have a fungal odor and taste that is spicy and

caramel like. Appreciated for its culinary qualities, this mushroom is also

recommended for diets and as an immuno-stimulant. Rich in

carbohydrates, shiitake are a delight. They can be eaten in salads or as

a sauce for pasta, meats, etc. It is advised to cook or chop the legs

separately because they have a hard texture. The best mushrooms are

those with a cap diameter of less than two inches, with a velvet, dark

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brown color and open up to 70%. Besides shiitake being very popular

and often being used for medical purposes, it is widely used in the

kitchen, especially in Asia.

Shiitake is used in powder form as a seasoning with sea salt,

dehydrated garlic, black pepper, parsley, tricalcium phosphate, and 2%

anticaking agent. This delicious condiment adds shiitake flavour to every

meal when fresh mushrooms are not available. It is used for steaks,

fries, pasta, pork, and chicken. There are many different recipes for

using it as a seasoning, in soups, and even in a drink like tea. It can be

added to different kinds of hot dishes; it combines perfectly with meat,

vegetables, and noodles; and it can also be used to decorate the dish.

Shiitake mushrooms can also be cooked on the grill or in the oven.

The concentration of polysaccharide in the shiitake mushrooms depends

ona large extent onthe stem and the environmental conditions in which it

is cultivated or grown. Mushroom polysaccharide varied between strains

of fungi, even up to eight times. Higher storage temperatures led to a

low content of Lentinan because there was a higher activity of

endogenous glucanase. Lentinanc ontent is lower in younger

mushrooms than in the mature mushrooms.

Beauty cream with shiitake polysaccharides

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You probably never asked yourself why the skin of a Geisha is so fine.

The answer is because they useface creams with shiitake as the main

ingredient. Today’s scientists have discovered with the help of modern

equipment what healers knew for centuries. In Asian countries, a daily

consumption of between 6 and 16g dried mushroom sor 80 gof fresh

shiitake is recommended. The caloric value of 100g of dried shiitake is

greater than 100g of potatoes (80 kcal) or beef (224 kcal) but lower than

that of whole wheat or brown rice (328-350 kcal). Dried shiitake protein

content is comparable to poultry, pork, and beef, but the number of fat

units is much lower and the amount of dietary fiber is considerably

higher than in meat.

Shiitake contains almost all essential amino acids, such aslysine and

arginine, in very high concentrations (Liuand Bau, 1980) and lower

quantities of methionine and phenylalanine (Lasota and Sylwestrzak,

1989).

Laboratory analyses have found that amino acids, proteins, glycogen,

fat, ascorbic acid and total ash content is increased (Fasidi and Kadiri,

1990). Based on these findings, it is recommended to eat mature

mushrooms for maximum nutritional value. The researchers found, in

general, higher concentrations of nutrients in the cap than the foot of the

mushroom.

Shiitake contains fibers in a ratio of 6.7g per 100g dried mushrooms,

greater than brown rice (0.2g) and sweet potatoes (0.9 g). Mushrooms

are not only an important sources of nutrients but they also boost the

immune system. They werep laced in the top 100 best foods by a recent

study in Germany, were among the 10 best super foods aftera study in

the U.S., and Asians consider them one of the five best foods, alongside

tofu, soy cheese or meat, mysore seaweed agar and konjac— an Asian

bulbous plant that is cultivated as a vegetable butis banned in the EU.

Shiitake are among the superior foods for strengthening the

cardiovascular system, just like oats and olive oil.

Shiitake is recommended for diets:

They have fewer calories (only 20 calories for 5 medium

mushrooms);

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Are low in carbohydrates; and

Have a low fat content without saturated fats.

Shiitake is recommended as a nutrient:

Thy have nocholesterol;

Are an excellent source ofB vitamin;

Are an excellent source ofRiboflavin-vitamin B2;

Have a low sodium content;

Are a good source ofNiacin-vitaminB3;

Are a good source of PantothenicAcid-vitaminB5;

Are a good source ofpotassium;

Are a goodandexcellent source ofcopper;

Are a good source ofselenium; and

Have a high mineralcontent

Medicinal value

In the last 100 years, there have been many advances in medicine using

lower organisms such asmolds, yeasts, and mushrooms. The first

antibiotics are known to have been taken from molds produced by

mushrooms. Penicillin, tetracycline, and euromicin came from molds

produced by some species of mushrooms.

Closer to modern times, we managed to achieve body assimilation of

transplanted organs using the drug Cyclosporin, which is extracted from

an insect that grows in symbiosis with a species of mushroom called

Macromyceta.

Recent studies have shown tha tmushrooms are probiotics, which help

the body to cure and fight diseases until it regains its natural resistance.

Mushrooms can also be use das a potential defense that stimulate the

body’s immune system to protect us.

Since mushrooms spend 90% of their life cycle in mycelium or a

vegetative state, researchers have turned to mycelia biomass for

aseptically cultivated mushrooms. From this mycelium, various

polysaccharides are extracted that are part of different supplements,

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either as dry or dehydrated or in alcohol extracts. These products are

widely used in various countries as food supplements, energy boosters,

anticancer preventatives, stimulants of neuronal processes,

immunomodulatory, antimicrobial, antiviral, and to reduce the aging

process.

The quality of mushrooms as a complete food was demonstrated by

researchers who were only fed mushrooms for long periods of time

without their bodies being negatively affected. Regarding the therapeutic

role of mushrooms, French physician J. Valnet (1987) showed that

cultured mushrooms have stimulating properties and are remineralizing

for the human body. A. Rambelli (1987), an Italian professor, highlighted

the antibiotic proprieties found in Agaricus bisporus mushrooms. Other

tests of 11 species of mushrooms, mostly edible, including champignon,

weres hown to have an inhibitory action against polio; checks have been

confirmed in the laboratory on rats and monkeys.

French mushroom growers are not affected by cancer, which issued the

hypothesis that champignon are potential lproducers of metabolic

actions that are able to stop and cure cancer. For somepeople, fungi can

be hard to digest, and in these cases, it is recommended to consume

small amounts and gradually introduce them into the diet.

With extracts from Pl.ostreatus and Pl.eryngii mushrooms, PROVASTIN

was produced, which has properties to prevent myocardial heart failure,

prevent atherosclerosis, and lower cholesterol. From other species of

mushroom, such as Tremella mesenterica, TREMELLASTIN was

obtained, which is administered as an adaptogen for good health and

body vitality.

In 2005 a group of researchers from Pennsylvania found that

mushrooms contain the Ergothioneine antioxidant. With the help of high-

performance liquid chromatography and other methods used in

analytical chemistry, they found that Agaricus bisporus mushrooms, as

well as exotic ones like Pleurotus, contain the antioxidant. Pleurotus

contains about 13 mg of the antioxidant per 100g of protein, which is 40

times more than the amount contained in wheat germ, considered until

then a powerful antioxidant. And another aspect is that by boiling the

mushrooms the amount of antioxidant does not decrease.

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Agaricus brasiliens is, or blazei, with its high content of polysaccharides

such a salpha and alpha-D-glucan, beta and beta-D-glucan,

proteoglycans, riboglucans, anti-angiogenic compounds, and ergosterol,

is used as an antitumor, anticancer, antiviral, arteriosclerosis, diabetes,

hepatitis, and hyperlipidemia treatment, and it enriches the immune

system while stimulating the wholebody. This specie of mushroom

diminishes the side effects of chemotherapy and radiotherapy, causing a

considerable increase in body immunity.

Agaricus brasiliensis mushroom

By preventing vomiting, loss of appetite, fatigue, and lack of energy,

chemotherapy becomes up to seven times more efficient. The

mushroom is considered a functional food because of the content of

beta-glucans, fuco-mano glucan, fiber, triterpenes, vitamins, nine amino

acids, and minerals. For treatment or as a nutritional supplement, it is

used raw, dehydrated as powder, as granules, astea, as a liquid extract,

etc. It is considered bioregulatory and immunomodulatory, and it

maintains homeostasis, regulates biorhythm, prevents cancer, lowers

cholesterol, prevents hypertension, aids in prostate problems, etc.

Agaricus brasiliensis mushroom is also more and more often being used

as an excellent adjuvant because it helps energize cells in the vicinity of

the tumor, thus stopping their metastasis. Japanese experts were able to

cross certain species of therapeutic mushrooms and then extract a

substance called AHCC (Active Hextrose Correlated Compound) from

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their mycelium, which was used successfully in Japan for cancer and

hepatitis C treatments.

Capsulesandtincture from Agaricus blazei Murrill or

himematsutake

Agaricus blazei mushroom, or God’s mushroom, is one of the most

amazing medicinal mushroom species discovered so far. It is sure to

revolutionize the medical industry worldover in the next few years. It is

just as important as the discovery of penicillin in 1920. It is assumed it

will have the same impact on immuno-deficient treatments, such as the

ones for cancer and AIDS, as the discovery of antibiotics had on

infections. Obviously, patients allergic to spores are not suited for the

treatment with this species of mushrooms.

Proper seasons for mushroom cultivation

Mushrooms can be grown throughout the year, but we must consider

the following:

The geographical area where the crop is grown;

The specie of cultivated mushrooms; and

The degree of betterment and improvement of the growing area.

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As a general rule, with minimum betterment of the growing area, in the

classic or household system, two to three crop cycles per year can

easily be achieved. Hot summers should be avoided as well as cold

weather. Bear in mind that a lot more energy is consumed in the hot

season, when you have to cool the air, compared to the cold season,

when cold air is heated. The Pleurotus spp. mushrooms can accidentally

freeze without any issues; after temperatures rise, they will thaw and

continue to grow.

Mushroom that can be grown with minimal costs

This book will address three species of the Agaricus type: Agaricus

bisporus or champignon; Agaricus edulis or thermophile champignon,

which are heat-loving mushrooms; and Agaricus brasiliensis, A. blazei

Murrill, or Milena mushroom (sometime called almond mushroom).

The second kind will be Pleurotus or sponges, with species and hybrids

that can be grown in the cold season and others in the warm season. Of

this kind, the most valuable is King Pleurotus, or Pleurotus eryngii.

Shiitake-Lentinulaedodes, or the perfumed mushroom, ist he first in Asia

when it comes to mushroom growing.

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Chapter 2: Classic Mushroom Production or

part of Household System

Mycelium is a vegetative rudimentary body of lower plants (algae and

mushrooms) and has various forms. An inferior mushroom is composed

of a single membrane cell or lacks the membrane enirely. A superior

mushrooms can beunicellular, branched, orconsistof several cells,

forming filaments. Inbothcases, the filaments are calledhyphae, and they

form the mycelium of the mushroom.

Mycelium is also called the false tissue because it results from the

braiding of the mycelia filaments. Mushroom mycelium is very voracious;

a cubic centimetre of soil can accommodate a km of mycelium. The

mycelium is composed of several thin filaments called hyphae. Hyphae

absorb nutrients from the soil.

The mycelium is a system of thin, branched filaments that forms the

vegetative apparatus of most mushrooms. The mushroom mycelium is a

biological product that is obtained in the laboratory under sterile

conditions and placed in an optimum micro-environment; it is capable of

reproducing the mushroom from which it resulted.

2.1 Brief history of mycelium production

In 1894 Constantine and Matruchot obtained controlled germination of

spores and mycelium from the mushroom tissue, which they called pure

culture, even though it was on horse manure. The two kept the secret

well until 1902, when an American, Ferguson, deciphered the secret and

published a study on the controlled germination of spores and mycelium

growth, bringing an end to the monopoly held by the Pasteur Institute

from France. In 1932 James W. Sinden, in Pennsylvania, produced

mycelium on grain, rye, and millet, a method that spread worldwide until

1970.

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White Agaricus biporus, which today is grown throughout the world, is

derived from a man from Pennsylvania, who, in 1926, found, on his

brown mushroom bedding, white mushrooms as a spontaneous

mutation. Lambert was called, from whom mycelium was bought, and he

made selections and crossings in the laboratory until he obtained a

purewhite strain.

In 1925 in the Netherlands, Haarten was the specialist who introduced

the concept of mycelium. Starting in 1930, mycelium production was

moved on grain support. The pure cultures were kept or stored under

liquid nitrogen (LN2), a revolutionary but quite expensive method. This is

the best method for long-term storage because the mycelium is

completely submerged at a temperature of -320°F. This method

maintains a very stable mother culture for many years. A culture of

mycelium should be clean and free of contaminants and without

anomalies.Contaminants include other mushrooms, bacteria, and

insects. A pure culture will have to be transferred several times to a

fresh medium in order to avoid possible contamination. The observations

relate to growth rate, which is accelerated outward; fluffy texture of

mycelium; aerial, thick, or rubbery; or changes in color.

2.2 Obtaining mycelium from spores

From a spore, represented below by a point, and through germination,a

small filament arises that develops and branches.

Growing mycelium from a spore

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In the end, mycelium growth becomes circular, and hyphae have many

connections between them, radial increasing being the easiest for

mycelium to access nutrients from the environment. But in nature, this

growth is not very fast. Only under artificial laboratory conditions is the

growth accelerated. As mentioned in the previous chapter, mycelium

was originally produced on manure from horses and cattle in the form of

blocks; after that, they switched for about 10 years to tobacco waste in

glass containers. Later mushroom tissue was used. In 1930 mycelium

production was switched to grain support.

Various types of spores

Mushroom growing cycle

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Mushroom life cycle

Through their shape, size, and color, the spores vary from one

mushroom to another. Some are spherical, oval, or elliptical, while

others are cylindrical, straight, curved, polygonal, or with irregular

contours. The surface can be smooth, rough, dotted, warty, reticulate, or

with ridges.

Spore powder is obtained by placing a mushroom under a glass bell with

the fertile region down on a sheet of black paper for the species with

white spores or on a white sheet of paper for the ones with colored

spores. The spores are deposited on the paper in a few hours, and we

obtain the spore print. For the Agaricaceae mushroom, the spores are

deposited radially. The spore print can be fixed by spraying a solution

prepared from one part rosin and four parts turpentine over it. The

spores are taken from the spore print, and mushroom multiplying has

begun.

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Agaricus spp spore print

The method for obtaining mycelium from spores in the classical system

is acumber someone that requires knowledge, equipment, and strict

hygiene conditions.

Stropharia r.ann. mycelium

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2.3 Obtaining mycelium from tissue clone

A generation of crop plants obtained through vegetative propagation is

called a clone. A portion or tissue culture is the simplest method for

obtaining a mycelia culture. This can be considered a clone o fa

mushroom. The clone is a new generation of culture plant obtained by

vegetative propagation or by a set of cells or organisms with identicall

hereditary structure.

Multiplying the mycelium is also characteristic to mushrooms. Grained

mycelium is used on grains.

Isolated tissue culture is carried out on the agar medium in the test tubes

or in petri dishes with incubation at 75-78°F for 15 to 30 days; after that,

they are stored in a refrigerator at 35-39°F.

An isolated culture or clone has established the main biological and

morphological characters of the specie and strain of origin for a long

time. An isolated culture is in the subculture stage, the first link of the

selection process. We will describe the growth of mushrooms through

tissue fragments or clones because it is easier to achieve in your own

household. To multiply your spawn, you will need a healthy mushroom,

representative to the species that is evenly developed and mature.

The kitchen is the ideal place to obtain mycelium. Transform your

kitchen for a moment into a laboratory. Do a proper cleaning, remove the

trash and disinfect all surfaces with alcohol or chlorine, including

flooring, doors, door knobs, windows, table top work surface, stove,

etc.Do not forget your hands, and change into clean clothes.

You need the following:

Cereal seeds, which are easy to procure, like wheat, barley, corn,

millet, or sorghum If you want to obtain mycelium of Pleurotus, it is

recommended to use barley; for Agaricus, wheat is recommended.

Containers can be bottles of various capacities or wide-mouth

canning jars.

The lids for the containers should be made of metal, common screw

caps, or improvised from natural cotton when bottles are used.

Aluminum foil

A pressure pot with higher capacity of eight to 12 liters.

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Potatoes, barley, agar-agar

pH indicator paper

Distilled water

12/2 tubes or petri dishes, 10 cm or 12 cm, diameter 14

A pot for boiling cereals

A sieve for straining the cereals, such as the ones used for spaghetti

or macaroni

A small quantity of sugar, glucose, or dextrose

A thermometer with values between 0-122°F

A funnel for pouring liquid and a thick, clean cloth for filtering

1-2 wooden rods with a length of 0.5 m and the girth of a pencil for

tilting the tubes

A stainless steel vessel in which to place the tubes with the sterilized

environment in the pressure cooker

For the petri dishes, put environment liquid made from potato and

agar-agar in a bottle that fits in the pressure cooker. The bottle will be

closed with a cotton plug and covered with aluminum foil, or you can

use a metal screw cap.

Spirit lamp, lighter, and medicinal alcohol

A scalpel or a needle about 30 cm long and 1 cm thick, bent like a

hook at the end

For mycelium production, there are two working stages with a growth

break between them.

2.3.1 The firststep in the preparation of the crop

environment for the clone o rtissue portion

The environment liquid is prepared based onpotato, sugar, ordextroseagar anddistilled water, and the amount depends on the needs (potato-dextrose-agar PDA).

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2.3.1.1 Recipes for crop environments

Potato Dextrose Agar Potato dextrose agar is the most used environment in mycology, and it is very favourable for the growth of most mushrooms.

Ingredient Quantity Potato 200g Dextrose 20g

Agar 20g Distilled Water 1000ml For preparing the environment, the potatoes are washed and cleaned

and then cut into cubes of about 2-3 cm. Weigh 200 g of potatoes, rinse

them in water, and boil them in a stainless steel vessel for 30 minutes to

soften. Smash the potatoes, and strain as much pulp as possible

through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Add agar, and boil until dissolved.

Remove from fire, add dextrose, and mix again until dissolved. Add up to

one liter of distilled water. During the pouring in tubes, shake the solution

to allocate a portion of the solid part to each tube. Sterilize in the

pressure cooker for 15 minutes after the boiling has started. Depending

on the quality of the agar, 15g can be used per liter of environment

(Constantinescu, 1974).

Malt(extract) Agar

Ingredient Quantity Malt extract 30g Agar 15g

Distilled water 1000ml The malt extract is heated in water until it dissolves. Add agar, and boil until the agar has dissolved. The final pH is adjusted to 5.5±0.2,at77 F.

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Sterilize in the pressure cooker for 15 minutes after boiling has started (Samson and Van Reenen-Hoekstra, 1988).

Agar in three forms

Another recipe:

Put a liter of distilled water in a new, clean, thick bowl to prevent the

other ingredients from sticking to the bottom.

Add 75g of crushed malt (from breweries or barley deposits), and

pass it through a coffee grinder).

Boil until you reacdh medium heat for about 45 minutes.

After boiling, strain through the cheese cloth twice; add distilled water,

up toone liter.

Put the bowl back on the stove, and add 20g of agar; sprinkle it

around so it doesn’t form lumps.

Keep stirring, and then continue to boil for about 15 minutes, until it

begins to clot easily (try the mixture witha glass or wooden rod).

Add a drop of sodium hydroxide, and measure the pH value.

Important! The environment has to have a specific color (cream), and the pH should be between 6.8 and 7.4!

Pour into the tubes (previously sterilized and with separate plugs).

Cap the tubes.

Sterilize the pressure cooker for 15 minutes after the onset of boiling.

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After sterilization, the tubes are inclined on the rods in such a way

that the medium does not touch the cotton plug; allow it to harden for

about three hours.

The tubes can be kept in the fridge or a cold space until they will be

used.

Stainless steel jug for pouring the environment into

tubes

Here is another recipe for environment culture based on potatoes, agar-agar, dextrose and barm.

For one liter of environment, the following ingredients are needed:

Ingredient Quantity Potatoes 250g Agar 20g

Anhydrous dextrose 10g Barm 1.5 g

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Peel the potatoes; wash and cut them intocubes.

Boil the potatoesfor about 30 minutes.

Strain the liquid in which thepotatoesboiled and fill to 1

liter.

Dispense the environmentintotubes.

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Wire baskets with tubes are ready for sterilization.

2.3.1.2 Preparation

Wash and peel the potatoes, cut them into cubes, and place them to boil

in distilled water. Once they have boiled, drain the liquid. Add the other

ingredients to this liquid. Dispense the environment into tubes, and

sterilize them for 15 minutes in the pressure cooker. Incline the tubes,

and keep refrigerated until use.

Inclined tubes after sterilization

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Pressure cooker used for sterilizing the tubes

If the environment was dispensed into petri dishes, about 1cm of

environment is added to each box, which is then closed. There are petri

dishes made of polypropylene that can withstand sterilization above

212°F. The pairs of petri dishes are packed in aluminum foil and placed

one on top of the other on a metal rack or on a perforated metal plate in

the pressure cooking pot, which should contain only about 10 cm of

water. Petri dishes should not be submerged in the water but rather

should be above the water level. Sterilize the petri dishes just as you did

the tubes for 15 minutes after boiling starts. After cooling, they may be

kept in a refrigerator until use. It was previously shown that after

sterilization, tubes are leaned on a wooden stand or perch for agar

solidification. The inclinationis applied to achieve a wider area of

environment, on which mycelium develops. In the case of the petri dish,

this is not necessary; you will skip the leaning operation.

Placing glass jars with seeds in the pot for the sterilization

process.

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2.3.1.3 Preservation of crop environments

In order to avoid needing to prepare a crop environment every day, a large amount can be prepared and then stored for preservation. The culture environments are stored only after the sterilization. Dispense the desired capacity in containers for a single use, cover the lid well with parchment paper or aluminum foil, tie them with string or a rubber band, label them, and keep them in the fridge for optimal conservation. For use, the environments will be melted in bain-marie (heated bath) and dispensed in culture recipients (tubes or petri dishes) that were previously sterilized.

2.3.1.4 Preparing selected mushrooms for clone extraction

Other than the parasitic mushrooms, we can find bacteria or

saprophytes fungi on the plant organs. In order to remove the

contaminants from the surface of the material collected, various methods

are used. One of these is based on the use of sterilizers in solution form.

When solution sterilizers are used, surface disinfection is carried out as

follows: The mushrooms are washed and cut into small fragments of

about 1 cm in length, and then they are immersed in ethanol (75%) and

immediately in the sterilizing solution. After the removal from the

solution, they are washed several times in sterile water, dried between

sheets of sterile paper, sectioned, and transferred onto the culture

environment.

Surface sterilization of the mushrooms

Sterilizer (according to Both, 1971)

Concentration (%)

Time (minutes)

Washing solution

Formaldehyde(40%) 51 1-5 Ethanol (70%) then sterile water

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Hydrogen peroxide (H

2O

2)

3 1-5 Sterile water

Potassium permanganate (KMnO

4)

2 1-5 Sterile water

Calcium hypochlorite (Ca(ClO)

2) or Sodium

hypochlorite (NaClO)

0,35 1-5 Sterile water

Ethanol 75 1-5 Sterile water

Silver nitrate (AgNO3)

1 1-5 Sterile sodium chloride (NaCl) then sterile water

For disinfection, use one of the solutions from the above table; the

cheapest and most easily available are ethanol (75 degrees), calcium

hypochlorite, and hydrogen peroxide. Sterile water can be obtained from

still water sterilized in the pressure cooker for 15 minutes for containers

with a capacity of 0.5 liters ora bout 30 minutes for one-liter bottles.

Two people in clean clothes and masks will need to work in your clean

kitchen lab, with the door and windows closed to avoid the formation of

air currents and all surfaces disinfected with chlorine or alcohol. Follow

these instructions:

- First, clean anddisinfect the mushroom.

- Light the spirit lamp.

- Remove the tubes containing the crop environment from the

refrigerator.

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- The mushroom is cut longitudinally, and a piece of tissue of about

1cm² is harvested with the tip of a needle or a scalpel passed

through alcohol first and held in a flame until it turns red.

- Allow the needle or scalpel to slightly cool, take the mushroom

fragment, pass it over the spirit lamp flame and insert it into the

tube.

- The plug of the tube is heated on the spirit lamp flame, and the

tube is capped (see fig. 31and 33).

2.3.1.5 Inoculation in boxes without laminar flow currents

The boxes are made of different materials that are easy to disinfect, in

which the inoculator inserts only the hands through two holes provided

with sleeves like gloves and performs the inoculation. In general, they

have a reduced capacityof about 50 recipients. The boxes can be made

in the home.

Disinfect with alcohol solution administered as vapor. In the inoculation

box, all tools are inserted with the inoculum and the recipients that are

about to be inoculated, and everything is disinfected with alcohol

solution and sprayed. The inoculator inserts only their hands into the box

and performs the inoculation. Then it moves to another box, which has

already been prepared.

The tubes or petri dishes are kept tightly packed in aluminum foil in a dry

spotat a temperature of over 68°F. After about seven days, you will see

the result of your work.

Inoculation box

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If you have worked correctly and hygienically and the environment is

free of molds, mycelial hyphae will have begun to grow from the

mushroom tissue. When the entire container is full of silver-white floss,

the incubation is complete. Your work has been successful and you can

proceed to the next stage, which is preparing the mycelium.

With a needle, a piece of tissue is harvested

Cut the piece of tissue from the mushroom with a scalpel

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Spirit lamp

It is marked where you take thepiece of tissue and it’s placed in the test tube on solidified environment.

The work is done over a flame.

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The 4 steps of inoculation: sterilize the needle, harvest the tissue, the tube is open and the mouth of the tube is heated, and the piece of tissue is inserted in the tube and the tube is closed.

Petri dish containing mycelium grown from tissue triangle,

for Pleurotas spp.

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Petri dish with grown radial mycelium

Tubes in which the mushroom piece of tissue is observed

Tube completely incubated

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The opera tion of shifting a culture from a recipient to another is called

sub-culturing or passage and the culture fragment that is passed on

another environment is called inoculum.

Although they seem simple, the inoculation and transfer of the mycelium

are often performed incorrectly, leading to unwanted contamination of

the culture and infestation. All sub-culturing movements oroperations

must be made quickly enough to prevent infection of the sterile media

tubes. There is no talking during the working time. The movements must

be made with some regularity and not prolonged too much. Also, a

series of recommendations must be respected, which at first glance

seem minor but are critical for the success of the sub-culturing:

- Keeping the tube in a horizontal position during sub-culturing to

avoid any dust particles from the atmosphere falling into the

environment

- Maintaining the needle used for sub-culturing in the flame

upright rather than horizontal position, for the burningto to affect

a bigger area

- Removing the cotton plug with the little finger from the right

hand and keeping it in the hand all the time (to avoid

contamination)

- Burning the edge of the tube during the removal and insertion of

the cotton plug, since theouter edges of the tube may contain

germs of secondary contamination

After sub-culturing, the tubes are placed in a vertical position so that the

condensation does not spread all over the environment surface,

preventing the typical growth of the colony.

Aftersub-culturing, the tubes are labeled to avoid mixing them up. You

can apply labels that stick, or you can write directly on the tubes with a

permanent marker. After labeling, the tubesare placed in various

recipients, such as empty cans, with some paper underneath so the

tubes do not break; they are then placed for mycelium growth.

If you obtain growing environments in which the mushroom is mixed with

other microorganisms, then you must repeat the inoculation process.

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Transferring a triangle of mycelium to another petri dish

The infections can be molds of other colors, like yellow, green, brown,

black, red or pink.

In areas where the mushroom appears less mixed with other

microorganisms, a small portion is taken that is inoculated again on

another environment. Repeat this operation until the culture we want to

multiply is purified of foreign microorganisms. After obtaining a pure

culture in petri dishes, the mushroom is seeded again in test tubes in

order to be preserved in isolation for a longer time (two to three months)

at a low temperature (35-39°F). After this time, the cultures have to be

sown again to refresh them. Maintaining isolates for a longer period of

time to produce mycelium is only possible if sub-culturing is repeated

every two to three months. Otherwise, the environment dries out, and

mycelium can no longer feed itself.

For the purification of mushroom cultures, it is also possible to use a

series of chemical factors that inhibit the growth of bacteria, such as

penicillin, streptomycin, chloramphenicol, etc. Penicillin (20-40 units / ml

culture environment) and streptomycin (40-100 units / ml culture

environment) are added after sterilization, when the environment cooled

to 113°F. Chloramphenicol (0.05 mg / ml culture environment) can be

included prior to sterilization.

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Fridge stock of tubes containing crop environment

2.3.2 Step 2 of mycelium preparation

In the previous phase, we prepared the stem or mother culture. Now I

will describe how we prepare mycelium for establishing a new crop of

mushrooms.

First you have to think about what recipients you will work with. For

some time now, many mycelium stations have worked with glass

containers. They have advantages and disadvantages, as follows:

- The main advantage would be there-use of the recipients.

- The main disadvantage is that they canbreak, crack, or split

during the technological process.

- Another disadvantage is that they require work to extract the

mycelium as well as washing and sterilization for reusing them.

In some countries, these glass recipients were replaced with

polypropylene, which can be reused, orlow density polyethylene as both

canwithstand high temperatures during sterilization.

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Of course, these recipients are excellent for this purpose; they are

lightweight, require only a small space for storage, are disposable, are

resistant tosterilization andhandling, are easy to empty of mycelium,

allow the attachment of antimicrobial filters through which the air

exchange takes place, andare recyclable.

Plastic bag with grown mycelium

Plastic bags have different volumes and can also be used. When

working with glass containers, they generally have a one-liter capacity

and a wider opening, which facilitates the inoculation.

One-liter bottle with incubated mycelium

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2.3.2.1 Preparing recipients for working

Preparing the recipients for the two main situations means:

- When the recipients are new, arriving directly from the factory; - When the recipients are reused.

The new recipients or containers require only a simple wash to remove

dust and then drying; they can then enter into production flow. The

bottles that are being reused are first checked, and any that are cracked

or chipped are removed for recycling; then the others are washed with

hot water and soap and rinsed with cold water. Allow to drain and dry

upside down. In some cases, use containers or canning jars with

different capacity: 0.5, 1, or 2 liters.

Jars with mycelium in various incubation stages

2.3.2.2 The support for mycelium production

The most used support for mycelium production is the cereals, such as

wheat, barley, oats, rye, corn, millet, and sorghum but also sunflower

shells, sawdust, straw, cork or wooden pegs, wood chips or in liquid

form. Mycelium produced on straw is recommended for mushroom

species that grow on straw, such as Strophariara Volvarielavolvaceea,

etc. Mycelium produced on lignicolous suppor tis recommended for

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lignicolous speciessuch as Lentinusedodes, Ganodermalucidum, etc.

Mycelium produced on various cereals is suitable for species of

mushrooms that grow on compost but also for the ones that grow on

wood.

The correct choosing of raw materials for the substrate is essential for

the production of quality mycelium. The largest quantity of mycelium

seems to be produced on rye seeds. Wheat is the second most

frequently used material. It is susceptible to cracking during boiling,

however, and if starch is removed and becomes sticky or gummy, it is

not recommended for mycelium. It is recommended to widely use barley,

which doesn’t crack during boiling, as well as millet. Also recommended

is corn, which contains a large endosperm, is not affected by pests and

fungi and does not contain impurities. Asa replacement for grains,

expanded per lite can be used when mixed with different proportions of

cereals.

The best overall growth was obtained by cornat 12.67 days, followed by

wheat at 15 days and sorghum at 16.33 days. The reason could be that

the larger grains such as corn allow an optimal gas exchange, providing

good mycelia growth. Wheat and corn also present a high nitrogen

content. White millet is also preferred (Panicum miliaceum) because it

has smaller grains and adds 180-200 grains/g compared to cereals with

only 40-50 grains/g. The higher the density per gram, the more

inoculation points will be in the compost.

For the lignicolous species of mushroom, such as Lentinula edodes,

Ganoderma lucidum, Pleurotus ostreatus, etc., mycelium can produce

on wooden dowels. These are hardwood fragments of about 2-3cm long

and 0.5cm thick. They should be soaked or boiled to achieve an

optimum moisture level and to eliminate contamination by other fungi.

The boilingis done with 75g malt or barley seeds passed through a

coffee grinder in one liter of water. The boiling takes about an hour on

low heat. Then the boiled plugs, cooled and drained, are mixed

withabout 1-2% calcium carbonate and placed in a clean glass

container. In this case, too, the container with dowels is sterilized in the

pressure pot for about 30 minutes. In hygienic conditions and over the

flame of a spirit lamp, the contents of a test tube with mushroom

mycelium grown from the desired species is inserted into the bottle or jar

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with dowels. Afternearly a month, the plugs are completely incubated

and covered with mycelium and can be used in sowing on wooden logs,

in holes.

Wooden dowels used for preparing mycelium

Wooden dowels incubated with mycelium

2.3.2.3 Washing the cereals

The washing is done under a continuous stream of cold water while

stirring with a perforated wooden spoon until the resulting water runs

clean. Most of the competitors are removed in this way. Each batch of

cereals, before being washed, is weighed, and the weight is calculated

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so as to fill the pressure cooker to capacity after boiling. The washed

and boiled batch cannot be kept from one day to another.

2.3.2.4 Boiling the cereals

The boiling takes place until the grain’s texture becomes elastic so that

the pericarp of the grain does not crack and does not burst. Depending

on the capacity of the boiling vessel, it can take 15 or 45 minutes. By

cracking the grains, the starch from the cereals is released into the

boiling water, and then the whole composition becomes sticky and thus

inadequate for a growing support of mycelium.

Boiling verification can be done by simply squashing the grains between

your fingers. The grains must not become compacted, and they

shouldn’t stick to each other but rather flow. After boiling, the drying and

the cooling of the support is done. In recent years, some experts have

begun to recommend producing mycelium on seeds soaked in water

until saturation for 24 hours at low temperature, so fermentation is not

triggered. The recommended temperature is between 32 and 50

degrees ideally 39°F.

2.3.2.5 Support homogenization with amendments

After boiling, allow the seeds to cool on aluminum or stainless steel

trays. For large quantities, the seeds can be putin an agitator, first for

cooling and after for adding the amendments and making

homogenization. As amendments, add 10% calcium sulphate or gypsum

(CaSO4), 2 to 3% calcium carbonate, or fodder chalk (CaCo3). For

protein intake, 4-5% soybean flour can be added. The grains should be

evenly homogenized, and all of the seeds should be covered with white

powder in order to avoid clusters and prevent the formation of clogs.

Through calcium coating, a space remains in between the grains

through which the air can flow and which allows the mycelium to breathe

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and grow. The culture environment will have a neutral pH, slightly

alkaline, of 7 to 7.2.

PH paper indicator

When sorghumis used, 15% calcium sulfate will be added. Other

mushroom growers use only calcium carbonate, 30g/kg of boiled

cereals.

How to proceed in measuring the pH:

The reaction is given by hydrogen ions H+ in the solution and is

measured in pH units. A pH paper indicator can measure values

between 0-14. A solution of about 20-30g of compost or peat is made in

about 60-100ml of distilled water. At first, mix very well; then let it settle

for about 10-15 minutes. Break a yellow ribbon at about 2-3 cm, and

insert one end into the solution you want to measure. The ribbon will

either change color or not, depending on the reaction. If you get a shade

of green, the reaction is slightly acidic to neutral. To color it in green so

that it matches pH 7, we add somed olomite or lime. If you have to lower

the acidity, add a little sulfur. Compare the color of the ribbon to the

colors on the box from the corresponding values, as shown above.

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2.3.2.6 Filling the recipients

After the cooling and homogenization with the amendments, proceed to

fill the recipients. One-liter bottles will be filled only two-thirds of the way,

meaning 350-500 grams of grain will be distributed and sealed with a

plug. Carefully wipe the dust trail of amendments before applying the

cap. The bags of polypropylene or high-density polyethylene should be

filled according to their capacity but never 100%, only 80%. After the

distribution of grain support, the bags need to be sealed. In some cases,

a metal ring was used, over which the bag was pulled, a cotton plug was

inserted, and it was sealed. In other cases, the bags may be sealed with

string.

To protect the plugs from the vapors inside the pressure cooker, they

can be capped with parchment paper or aluminum foil and tied with

cotton thread or string. When filling the bottles, it should be considered

that both the bottles and their support should be cold so that

condensation will not form that supports infections. Condensation can

also occur if the grains were boiled too much because they retained

more water, or when the optimal amount of amendments wasn’t added.

Mycelium produced in bottles, especially for Pleurotus spp., has the

disadvantage of being hard to extract because it compacts.

2.3.2.7 Support sterilization

The sterilization of the support is particularly important as it removes the

remaining microorganisms on the surface of cereal. Laboratory tests

found that the production of 1 g of commercial mycelium, represented by

fungus spores and bacteria, has to be destroyed through sterilization.

Sterilization may take one to two hours depending on the capacity of the

recipients. After the removal from the pressure cooker and after a slight

cooling, the bottles are subjected to a bump, without the seeds to reach

the plug, in order to displace the support from the inside, thereby

facilitating the spreading of mycelium.

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2.3.2.8 Inoculation

Inoculation is the operation that introduces a certain amount of

inoculums (10-12 grams or 40-45 ml) in recipients prepared for

commercial mycelium production. All surfaces are disinfected with a

solution of chloral, corrosive sublimate and medicinal alcohol. Currently,

most of these substances have been replaced by newly emerging

substances such as Propane AF bactericidal, fungicidal and antiviral, or

CID20 item produced in Belgium, which is one of the most powerful

disinfectants in the world. But the global trend is to replace these

chemical disinfectants with ecological steam disinfection as much as

possible. Here’s how to proceed during the inoculation process:

In the clean and disinfected room, we havebottles with cereals and tubes

with mother culture in the refrigerator. Over the spirit flame, the handle is

heated, and all the content of the tube is extracted in a bottle, bag, etc. It

is immediately sealed. In the preparation phase, whatis obtained by

growth on cereals is called inoculum. From repeating the same

operations, mycelium is obtained. But I recommend you inseminate

inoculum, meaning the phase before mycelium, which is of high quality.

Depending on the capacity of the recipients, you can use a whole tube

or half and the same in the case of petri dishes; they can be divided into

four parts if our containers with cereals weigh up to0.5 kg.

2.3.2.9 Mycelium incubation or maintaining a constant

temperature

The room designed for growing the support for mycelium is disinfected

before inserting the inoculated containers. Inoculated bottles or bags are

placed on shelves without touching, and they are labeled. Incubation

lasts between 12 and 18 days for species of the Pleurotus type, 30-35

days for the Agaricus type, and 35 days for the Lentinusedodes type;

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each species has its own incubation period and optimal temperature,

usually between 75-79°F. Relative humidity values will reach 60-65%.

Five day safter the inoculation, the bottles will need to be checked to see

if infection occurred or not. The infected bottles are then destroyed. In

the growth chamber, a strict hygiene is maintained, and the floor is

disinfected with one of the following solutions: 1% corrosive sublimate,

2% bleach, or 2% copper sulfate.

Bottles with mycelium stored for incubation

2.3.2.10 Storage and refrigeration

After the complete incubation of the mycelium, the recipients are

removed from the thermostat either for use or for storage in a

refrigerator until sowing in the mushroom farm. Total inoculation is

checked visually; the support must be white, without cereal seeds, and

not covered with mycelium. Seeding is optimal when using the mycelium

removed from the thermostat tfor about a week.

Refrigeration is the cooling of a product to a temperature close to the

freezing point, in order to preserve it for a long period of time. In the

case of mycelium storage, the temperature, according to some authors,

has to be 32-35°F, or 35-39°F according toothers. In order to prevent the

weight decrease ofthe mycelium, a relative humidity of 70-80% will be

maintained. Batches of mycelium will be labeled with the date, species,

strain,and number or amount. In the case of the mycelium of Pleurotus,

it is not recommended to stay refrigerated for more than 30 days, and for

Agaricus, the refrigeration periodis somewhat longer atup to three

months. Freezing the mycelium is not recommended. When ice crystals

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form, they tend to cause the mycelium to break. The temperature at

which water is most dense and suitable for keeping the mycelium is

39°F.

If storage is performed at higher temperatures, such as 68-71°F, with

60% relative humidity, the mycelium continues to grow, and yellow spots

will appear, and after 15-18 days, primordia may appear. This leads to

the mycelium “aging,” which reduces the plant vigorand causes

substantial losses in the yield of future crops.

Commercial mycelium

Pleurotusostreatus commercial mycelium

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2.3.2.11 The occurrence of contaminants

Experience has shown us that foreign infections can occur even in

optimum working conditions due to the great receptivity of the cereal

seed holder. These infections can cause losses of 1-8%.

Contaminated mycelium

Mycelium diseasesare more common when the following factors are

present:

The supports present a high degree of infections due to molds and

when hot, blackened, etc.

Seedsare not thoroughly washed.

The sterilization was not optimally performed.

The lids or cotton plugs get wet.

Strict hygiene conditions are not obeyed throughout the entire

technological working flux.

The microorganisms that cause diseases to the mycelium are bacteria,

Actinomycetales, fungi, yeasts, parasites, or scavenge fungi. Most of

these come from the air and soil, although some come from the water.

Molds are generally lower fungi or bacteria that in order to grow, need

ingredients represented by organic or inorganic compounds and

environmental factors, including humidity, whichis the most important.

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The minimum values for the development of molds are 65-70% humidity

in the case of Aspergillus Glaucusand 80-90% in most species. It is

easily understandable that these conditions are largely the same for the

mycelium that we want to produce in the laboratory.

Trichoderma viride – Green mold on mycelium

In this case, remove the infected recipients.

For Agaricus and Pleurotus, 1 liter = 0.7 kg, and for Lentinus edodes -

shiitake, 1 liter = 0.58 kg.

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Chapter 3: Growing Technology of Agaricus

bisporus mushroom culture

3.1 Agaricus bisporus champignon or manure

mushroom

3.1.1 Preparing the compost

Mineral elements play an important role in the nutrition of mushrooms,

such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and sulfur.

Micronutrients include zinc, copper, magnesium, and molybdenum. In

addition, in the substrate, there are also biological growth substances

such as thiamine and biotin.

The basic components of compost are straw, manure (from horses,

cattle, poultry, swine, sheep, and goats), stems and corn cobs, sawdust,

and shavings of deciduous species (trees that lose their leaves in

winter).

Characteristics of raw and auxiliary materials

Horse manure: This should present a pungent odor of ammonia, be

composed of wheat straw at a rate of 75% (so only 25% feces), should

have a golden yellow color, should be without mold, free of pest in

fermented areas, and should be fresh as possible (one month old).

Cattle manure: This is used in combination with the poultry manure and

straw in a ratio of 3:2:5.

Poultry manure: This enters into the recipe at a rate of 5-10%, and this

should be supported by cobs, sunflower husks, wood chips, sawdust

from sawmills, and wheat straw. It is recommended to use manure from

broiler farms.

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Poultry manure

Pig manure: Use less pig manure. In some countries, liquid pork

manure is collected in a concrete basin where pumps are applied over

the straw (1.5-2.5 m / t straw). It is anaerobically composted for seven to

eight days. In other countries, it is used similar to horse manure in a ratio

of 1:1 or mixed with the chicken manure and straw.

Sheep orgoatmanure: This is used less often as it is harder and colder

(thereby taking longer to ferment). It can be mixed with straw and

mineral fertilizers.

Straw: The most commonly used is wheat, in an amount of 8-15%,

because it is rich in carbohydrates (2.91%), nitrogenous substances,

phosphorus, potassium, and minerals; it is followed by rye, oats, and

barley, which are weaker in terms of quality. It is recommended that the

straw not be more than one year old, yellow-gold, unfermented, free of

mold, and long. Wheat straw is the basic material for the nutritious

substrate because they maintain elasticity during composting, as

opposed to oat straw, which gives “hard” compost that can tamper down

easily.

Wheat, barley, and rice straw give the best results if they are crushed

before being used by being crushed by the wheels of heavy equipment,

preferably tracked, or by tamping with a fork (for small quantities).

One kg of mushrooms consumes 220 g of dry organic substance; of this

amount, 90g is stored in the mushrooms, and 130 g is used in their

metabolism.

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Maize strains contain carbohydrates, and they are used without leaves

and chopped to a size of 2-3 cm in a 5-10% ratio. Chopped corncobs

are used in an amount of 5-20%.

Hardwoodsawdust is preferred to replace conifer sawdust and requires

long-term aerobic composting (24-26 days).

Hardwoodchips are rarely used, and like sawdust, it requires nitrogen

supplementation and extended composting.

Calciumamendments, such as gypsum (calcium sulfate - CaSO4) or

fodder chalk (calcium carbonate - CaCO3), are used in a proportion of

16 to 25 kg/ton of compost. Calcium balances the ratio of potassium,

magnesium, phosphorus, and sodium, eliminating their harmful effects

and bringing the pH to 7, which is neutral. It also contributes to the

formation of quality compost, bringing an increase of harvest while

preventing the emergence of saprophytic fungi (Coprinus, Peziza).

Nitrogen organic fertilizer can include bone meal, meat meal, soy

flour, soy grits, wheat bran, malt fangs, spent grains, brewery mash, etc.

Animal urine is preferable because it solubilizes faster than manure. The

dosage applied is 70 l/m3 of compost. Practice has shown that an

overdose with nitrogen sources of compost will have a negative effect on

mushroom production and cause it to decline.

3.1.2. Calculation of compost needs

The calculation is made based on the useful area to be sown, given that

a square meter requires 80-100 kg of compost.

Please Note! It is recommended to procure only about 50-60% of the

materials resulting from the calculation as the process of preparation,

pre-soaking, aerobic composting, and pasteurization will double the

compost weight, depending on the recipe used, because it will absorb

water.

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The compost (the culture substrate) is one of the primary factors and is

decisive for the success of a culture. Its preparation process is

considered very difficult.

Depending on the recipe used, the compost can be:

-Classic (based on horse manure with bedding)

-Mixed or semi-synthetic (on straw and poultry or pig manure)

-Synthetic (on wheat straw, poultry manure, and mineral intake)

Each of these recipes includes calcium intake represented by carbonate

or calcium sulfate in various proportions.

3.1.3 Compost recipes

Forclassical culture: For one ton of compost, use 800 kg horse manure

with straw layer, 20 kg gypsum, and 700 liters stable urine. The

composting duration takes 24-26 days with the execution off our turns

every three to four days.

Mixt compost recipes:

Materials Recipe 1 Recipe 2 Recipe 3 Horse manure (t)

5 5 7

Cattle manure (t)

- 2 2

Wheat straw (t) 2 2 1 Corn cobs (t) 1.7 - - Poultry manure (t)

1 1 -

Brewery mash (t)

0.3 - -

Superphosphate (kg)

50 60 60

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Ammonium sulfate (kg)

50 60 60

Technicalurea (kg)

60 - -

Gypsum (kg) 180 180 200 Calcium carbonate (kg)

180 - -

Compostingin the previous recipe lasts between 26 and 32 days, and

turns are applied five times at frequent intervals for the first two days and

three to four times for the next three days.

Synthetic compost recipes

To the straw, add 600 kg poultry manure and 30-50kg gypsum. Another

recipe requires the following for aton of straw: 200kg dried poultry

manureand 30-50kg gypsum. To achieve 2.5 tons of compost, you need

one ton of wheat straw, 500 kg poultry manure, 25kg technical urea, 80

kg gypsum, and 150kg of malt fangs. For the ton of horse manure layer,

you will add 100kg poultry manure, 30kg malt fangs, and 15kg gypsum.

3.1.4. Required space for compost preparation

To prepare at a minimum a ton of compost, you will need an area of five

to six square meters, possibly under a roof. It is not recommended to

prepare less than a ton of compost because it will not heat or ferment.

The location for the preparation of compost should be covered (in sheds,

shacks or special halls, garages, etc.), with a concrete floor with double

inclination of one to two degrees in the middle to encourage draining of

surplus water from watering. At the end of concrete, on the slope axis, it

will house two pools collectors (or plastic barrels) to collect the manure

juice, which will be recycled for irrigation with the help of submerged

pumps.

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In the vicinity, there should be a source of unpolluted water that is

drinkable and with a high flow, given that each ton of compost will

consume about 500 liters of water and some additional water for

washing the compost surfaces after every composting.

Preparing the compost can be done under the house

annex

3.1.5. Preparation of classic compost

First, the composting area isc leaned and disinfected with a solution of

copper sulphate (blue vitriol) 5% or 2% formalin (Formalin is used only

when the outdoor temperature is above 59°F.). For a culture area of 100

square meters, it will requirea bout 8-10t compost, which fits into a

platformmade of compost with dimensions of 6/2/2m.

Compost preparation technology comprises two phases or distinctive

stages as follows:

- The first anaerobic phase (without air) consists of pre-soaking

(watering), compaction, and mixing.

- The second aerobicphase (with air) consists of turning the

compost to create loosening.

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The technological phases of compost preparation

Pre-soaking takes place on a concrete surface, preferably with a slope

to collect the manure juice (purine), as explained above.

Starting materials that are part of the recipe are placed in a bunch and

then pressed down and gotten wet. In order to prevent the washing of

the materials, watering is stopped when it is observed that water is

flowing under the materials. It is recommended that the straw used is

first crushed, broken, or crumpled by passing over them several times

with heavy equipment (tractor, truck withrubber wheels, etc.) or chopped

to four to five cm long. The straw may be wellsoaked in a concrete pool.

After five to six days of wetting and compacting (three to four times /

day), we proceed with the following work:

Homogenization (mixing materials) is done either manually or

mechanically.

Compost settled for fermentation

Tap it again (this time with the feet), and wet it for four or five days more

with the recycled manure juice. Presoaking and homogenization takes

10-12 days and make up anaerobic composting. Aerobic composting

(with air) is done at the stage when it is no longer wet; with some strict

exceptions, the edges of the compost are sprinkled on the first mixing if

they are dry.

Watered and compacted materials from the anaerobic phase are left for

five days to heat in order for the fermentation to begin; they are

loosened by hand with a pitchfork and placed in a composting platform

with a 1.8-2 m width, 1-1 5 m height, and a length depending on the

quantity.

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Every 3 days mixing by hand is done using a pitchfork, adding a ¼

gypsum quantity according to the recipe in question, meaning 5 kg

gypsum to a ton of compost at every mixing.

Settled platform

By mixing, the fermentation compost is ventilated (aerobic conditions).

This removes the ammonia and ensures conditions for the development

of fermentation bacteria, which will act on the compost, transforming

organic substances into compounds that are easily assimilated by the

mushroom’s mycelium. Moisture content will be 65-67%. When

squeezed, only a few drops of water should drip. Agaricus bisporus

mushrooms grow and develop normally in a substrate with neutral or

very slightly alkaline reaction. In an acid or alkaline environment, the

enzymes that degrade the cellulose and hemicellulose of the substrate

are destroyed. An optimal growth on a substrate is slightly alkaline (7.4-

7.8) rather than a weak acid one because through the process of growth,

the mycelium slightly acidifies the nutrient substrate on which it

develops. At a pH value of more than 8, the growth of the mycelium is

delayed.

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During the mixing of the compost, we will take into account the following

conditions:

- The old compost from the platform edges, which didn’t ferment, is

placed in the middle of the new platform.

- The compost should be well shaken (winded) with the pitchfork.

- Hit the edges lightly with a pitchfork.

- Watering should be done carefully and only if it is required, especially

on the first turn, so as not to form a bumpy texture. If, however, out of

ignorance, too much water was added, you can make a strong winding

and add an additional 1-2 kg gypsum/ton of compost, but the quality of

the future nutritious substrate will be partially affected.

The internal temperature should reach 131-161°F. For small amounts of

compost, to facilitate the passage of air through it during the turnings

(mixing), it will be placed on triangular grids made from wooden slats,

with a height of 50cm. A major problem that occurs when the compost is

not thermally disinfected are the nematodes or worms of substrate. They

may exist in the number of several hundred thousand in 100g of

substrate. Destroying nematodes can involve a single treatment with

Vydatenematicide of 1% concentration and 10 liters in volume put

directly on the compost after natural pasteurization.

Legionella spp., a dangerous bacteria found in compost

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3.1.6. Placing the compost, seeding, and covering the

compost for Agaricus bisporus

After completing the aerobic composting and natural pasteurization, the

nutrient substrate is inserted in the mushroom farm to be seeded. There

are several possibilities for positioning the substrate. In the classical

system, it can be placed directly on the floor in furrows, in crates, or in

polyethylene bags. When the mushroom farm is equipped with shelves,

the substrate is placed directly on the rack —in bulk— or in crates or

bags sitting directly on the rack.

In the past, the simple method was practiced onridgesplaced together 2-

3, made using a pattern (trapezoidal prism). The ridges could be placed

directly on the floor on a polythene foil or on shelves, alsoon a polythene

foil.

Placing in bags. The amount of substrate divided into a bag is between

10-15kg and up to 20kg compost; its thickness is 20-30cm. When using

polyethylene bags, they will have a thickness of 0.1mm, and the bags

will ensure aculture of 0.2-0.4 square meters. It can be used with other

household bags if you would like to reuse those from animal feed,

potatoes, other vegetables or fruits, etc.

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Compost bags placed on metal shelves

Compared to the ridges, bags offer the following advantages:

- The filling is done faster, both manually and mechanically.

- Supplying and ejection is executed easier.

- Infestation by nematodes and other pests is avoided.

- It allows the evacuation of spent substrate after long periods of

time.

Placing the compost onshelves:

The shelves may be made of concrete, aluminum, metal, galvanized, or

plastic, with a width of 0.7 to 1.4m, the distance between levels at 50-

60cm, and a depth of 20cm (hence the thickness of the planar layer of

the substrate will be 20cm).

Incubated compost placed on rack in planar layer

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Placingthe compost incrates:

The most suitable crates are the metal ones, aluminum, or PVC that is

resistant to oxidation. But any other packaging can be used if they

support a weight of 10-12kg and are resistant to moisture.

Compost placed in wooden crates (not recommended)

Seeding is the method through which mycelium is inserted into the

substrate nutritional culture. The operation is carried out only after the

temperature of the substrate drops below 86°F, maintaining at 75-77°F.

Before managing the mycelium to be incorporated, we will perform the

following:

- We need to control the surfaces or layers of bags (to not present

molds or different pests); if outbreaks are detected, it should be

treated with a fungicide or insecticide.

- A loosening of the substrate is done in order to create conditions

for a more uniform incorporation of mycelium and is done

manually.

Mycelium

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Mycelium quantity is 0.4-0.5kg per 100 kgs ubstrate, and seeding is

done by mixing mycelium (1/2 of the amount to begin with) and compost

evenly and then dispensing the other half and proceeding likewise. At

the beginning of sowing, 10-20g mycelium out of one kilogram will be

retained to be spread over layers after seeding itself (mycelium of

control). After mycelium incorporation into the substrate, a uniform

compaction is done first by using a wooden tamper similar to the one

used fo rplastering. Then mycelium of control is distributed, and it is no

longer tamped. It’s called mycelium of control because we can observe

the growth rate, appearance or not of molds, etc. on it. During the

sowing, strict hygiene rules are imposed.

3.1.7. Microclimate conditions during the incubation

The temperature in the mushroom farm, when sowing, is recommended

not to exceed 71-75°F, and relative humidity is maintained at 80-85%

(by wetting the walkways, floor, etc.).

After the completion of sowing, it is applied to newspaper (paper tissue)

or a thin foil of polyethylene, the mushroom farm is cleaned, and

thermometers are placed in both the air and in the compost; we then

apply a treatment with a formalin solution of 0.5-1%.

The incubation or growth (spreading) of the mycelium substrate of

culture lasts 12 to 20 days depending on the strain seeded and

microclimate conditions. If we produced quality compost and there is an

optimum temperature of incubation, it can be completed in about 14

days.

Mistakes to be avoided during substrate spreading:

The worst mistake is watering the nutrient substrate surface without

papers or the casing mixture applied.

Other mistakes are:

- Drying the nutrient substrate surface;

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- Excessive watering of the sown surface, in peat;

-The occurrence of diseasesand pestson the substrate;

-Temperature above 86°F in the nutrient substrate; and

-Infiltration of smoke (carbon monoxide) in the mushroom farm,

which caninfluence the future mushroom production by

malformations.

Mushroom malformations due to smoke infiltration

from heat sources

3.1.8. The role and main components of the covering

mixture

The operation of casing the sown layers is performed atabout 14 days

after sowing. If execution of the work is delayed by 10-12 days,

production decreases in proportion with the number of delayed days.

The work can be performed even immediately after sowing, thus

eliminating the use of paper or foil.

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The role of peat coverage:

- It forms the growing support for mushrooms, which can only

fructify in it.

- It protects the mycelium and incubated substrate against pests and

diseases.

- The maintenance, watering, treatments, etc., of the culture are

performed on it.

- Peat from the mixture composition retains a large amount of water

and nutrients, which is then progressively transferred to the

growing mushrooms. Water is lost from the mixture by

evaporation, and after each watering, a cold shock occurs, which

influences fruition.

- The calcium carbonate serves as a buffer for the incubated

substrate, which tends to become acidic but instead is neutralized.

- A buffer layer is created between the substrate of CO2

concentration, which reaches 1-2%, and the air, whichis 0.03%, by

stimulating the appearance of the mushrooms.

- The peat bacteria stimulate the formation of mushrooms.

The main components of the casing mixture

The peat can be blackor red. It should appear fibrous, free of excess

moisture (like dampearth), and have a high capacity for water and

nutrient retention. If it is too wet, it will be dried, milled, and sieved. (Peat

particles should be about 5mm.)

Peat left to dry

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Limestone: Avoid the use of colored limestone; white limestone is

preferred because it doesn’t taint the mushrooms with the oxides it

contains.

Calcium carbonate, or fodder chalk (CaCO3) is essential to any casing

mixture recipe. Crushed limestone can be used without any other

components.

The mentioned components have a different water retention capacity, as

follows:

- Red fibrous peat, 200-250%

- Black peat black + red peat, 80-90%

Agaricus bisporus mushrooms are large consumers of water, provided it

is given gradually. A water deficit dries mycelium and stagnates growth

and excess watering destroys mycelium and softens mushrooms.

It is worth mentioning that for the formation of a pound of mushrooms,

two liters of water will be needed; one liter is consumed by the

mushrooms through metabolism, and the other is evaporated due to

ventilation. The casing mixture serves as a buffer to maintain the

humidity of the nutrient substrate.

Preparing the mixture and casing technique

First choose the suitable recipe, prepare the materials separately

(sieving, grinding, or drying, as appropriate), then measure (go to

blending, mixing). If the materials are dry, wet them until they are soft to

the touch.

Calculate the fodder chalk needed, and add it at the end. For the

formation of a large amount of mixture, a cement mixer with a capacity

of 0.3 m can be used, which helps homogenization.

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Bags prepared for applying the peat

In traditional cultures, a chemical disinfection of the mixture is done with

a 27% formalin solution. For a cubic meter of casing mixture, two liters of

27% formalin is used. If the mixture was not initially watered, formalin is

diluted with water in equal parts. The casing mixture pile is sprinkled with

a vegetable sprinkler, and it’s shoveled then sprayed again until all of the

solution is used. After chemical treatment, the mixture is covered with a

polyethylene foil and left for 8-10 days. Before being used, the mixture is

shoveled several times until the smell of formalin disappears.

The necessary cas in mixture is 0.03 cubic meters in a square meter of

culture, hence 3 cubic meters for 100 sq m (1 cubic meter = 4

wheelbarrows) or a minimum of 25 to a maximum of 30 kg/square meter.

In the case of chemical disinfection with formalin, an important role is

played by the ambient temperature (if it is lower than + 59°F, formalin is

no longer effective) and the winding of the mixture before it is placed on

layers; formalin retentions inhibits the growth of mycelium and

mushrooms.

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Casing technique

First collect the paperor foil from the layers and check the mycelium

incubation. If there are any infections (molds of different colors), proceed

to the removal ofcontaminated areas, whichis done by removing the

substrate to a depth of 1-2 cm; the spot will be chemically disinfected

witha 2% formalin solution. As a precaution, before applying the mixture

on the sown compost’ ssurface, one gram per square meter of fungicide,

Dithane M45 or something similar should be added. With a 10-liter

bucket, the mixture is inserted in the mushroom farm and is spread

evenly (one bucket/4-5 bags).

Applying the peat on incubated compost

It is leveled by handor with a wooden board. The optimal thickness

should be 4-6cm. If the purpose is obtaining large mushrooms, the

thickness of the mixture will be reduced. After this, a preventive

treatment with formalin concentration of 1% is appliedon the layers,

crates, shelves, walls, and floor—the entire inner surface.

The peat moisture is being verified; a drop of water

should appear.

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3.1.9. Microclimate conditions, care works and harvesting

of Agaricus bisporus mushrooms

After seeding

The temperature in the mushroom farm will have to be maintained at 68-

75°F in order to achieve incubation. Temperature differences between

day and night are recommended to be no more than 39-37°F. It is also

important to maintain the concentration of carbon dioxide between the

normal bounds of 0.03-0.1%. If the CO2 concentration is higher, the

development and fructification of mushrooms is hindered and even

stopped, and the entire culture can be compromised.

For this reason, the ventilation system will have an air flow rate of 0.5-

1.0 cubic meters/hour/square meter of culture, allowing optimum air

change in the mushroom farm.

Relative air humidity in the growing area will be maintained at around

85%. The floor of the mushroom farm will be kept permanently wet, thus

ensuring relative air humidity. For watering, we will use a Vermorel or

Kalimax pump or will attach a Vermorel rod directly to the hose

connected to a water source for fine water dispersion (dispersion nozzle

is attached). It is not recommended to use vegetable sprinklers or their

nozzles as large and heavy drops destroy mycelium. During this period,

preventive or curative chemical treatments will be performed with a

Kalimax or Vermorel pump. The amount of water sprinkled or treatments

administered shouldn’t exceed 1000 ml/square meter of culture from a

single application or as recommended in the technology hybrid sheet.

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Pump fordisinfectingand applying chemical treatments

During the incubation period, we will prevent the drying of culture layers.

The cases of dryness are as follows:

- The straw become more apparent.

- The substrate becomes pale or reddish.

- The substrate becomes elastic and soft and loosens easily.

The causes that can lead to surface dryness include the following:

- Air currents flows are too strong.

- The inside heat source is placed too close to the layers (50 cm)

without being protected by deflector panels.

- There are temperature variations above 37°F between day and

night (local low thermal insulation).

- Relative air humidity is less than 80%.

- Culture substrate was not attached correspondingly after seeding.

- To protect the substrate from drying, it is covered with

polyethylene foil and left for 3-4 days until droplets form on their

inner surface. Shake the drops so that the water can rejoin the

substrate mass.

After peat casing

The temperature in the growing area will be dropped to 66-68°F,

depending on the strain requirements, and humidity is maintained at the

optimum 85% by spraying the layers and floor. Ventilation is increased

to 1-2 cubic meters/hour/square meter of culture. The amount of water

or spray solution is maintained at 1-2 liters/square meter of culture as a

condition for mycelium growth in the casing mixture.

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Watering the peat

Incubated compost covered with peat and polyethylene

foil

After a period offive to six days, the myceliumof the fungus begins to

penetrate and to migrate in it, and after10-12 days, fructifications begin

to form.

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When the first fructifications begin, 10-12 days after the casing, the

temperature in the building culture is lowered to 60-64°F. If this condition

is not met, the mushrooms will soften, and they will fructify less, until the

culture is completely compromised (occurring only two or three waves

per culture).

From the casing and up to the first fructifications, apply weekly

treatments with 0.5% formalin at intervals of four to five days, replacing

the daily aspersion. Between these treatments, we will be introducing

one of the yeasts in a concentration of 0.5-1.0% in order to to stimulate

the mycelium spreading in the casing; it is done every seven days

throughout the harvest.

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Table 6 shows the values of the two factors of microclimate on mushrooms’ growth phenophases.

Culture Stage

Temperature °F Ventilation Cubic meters/square meters/hour

Air speed meters/seconds

Optimal

Minimal

Maximum

Incubation

22 15 26 0,1 – 1 0,05 – 0,1

Formation

18 14 24 1 – 2 0,1 – 0,15

Harvest

16 12 18 5 – 7 0,15 – 0,2

Until the mushrooms appear, the layer of casing is keptmoist, with

amoisture content of about 70%.

Scraping (or ripping) is performedinthe eighthday, the tenthfrom the

casing, andconsists of the mobilization of thecasing mixtureto a depthof

4-6cm. By doing this, a bursting of mycelial cords occurs, the

appearance of mushroom bunches is avoided,and itacceleratesfruition

buttons.

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Ripping or scraping

Fructification occurrence

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During harvesting

Mushroom harvesting takes place after the first 18-20 days of the layer

casing with the mixture and 30-35 days after sowing, depending on the

strain and the culture system.

The air temperature is maintained around 59-62°F and relative air

humidity within the limits of 80-95%, correlated with the temperature.

Ventilation is maintained at 1-2 cubic meter air/h/square meter, and air

velocity does not exceed 0.3 m/sec. Otherwise, the layers will dry too

quickly, and the mushrooms appear darker in color, with the hat’s cuticle

surface becoming scaly and cracked. If ventilation is very strong, more

than 0.3 m/second, mushrooms will no longer form. This should be

avoided because successive layers drying and repeated spraying

accumulate a large amount of water in the mixture and substrate, which

leads to mycelium destruction.

Complementary peat watering

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Harvesting is doneby twistingthe mushroom

If the ventilation is insufficient, the feet of the mushrooms will elongate, and the caps will remain small in diameter and open prematurely, thus substantially decreasing the value of the harvested mushrooms as well as their weight. Also, in case of insufficient ventilation on the culture’s surface, various molds may appear (parasites fungus) as they favor excessive humidity.

Brown Agaricusbisporus mushrooms containmore

antioxidants

When the crop is set on three levels, free ventilation is no longer

sufficient. During the harvest, there is a need for an air volume of five to

seven exchanges per hour. Basically, in the crop area, during the

ventilation, you must feel overpressure (by ears popping). The air in the

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mushroom farm will come out through the doors, windows, and holes left

especially for this purpose or through an exhaust fan (to evacuate the air

loaded with CO2). As soon as the first primordial fructifications appear

(like pinheads), stop applying the treatments and start watering for two

to three days until they reach the size of a pea or an olive.

Malformations in mushroom crop due to the useof

inappropriate pesticides Depending on how the fructification buttons appear, we can determine

favorable or unfavorable phenomena for the crop, as follows:

- When the buttons are individualized and spread evenly, the

appearance is normal, and it will ensure good production.

- When buttons are numerous, it indicates a too high nitrogen

content of the substrate (over 2.5% or a high percentage of

organic substance of the casing mixture).

- When buttons are rare and the mycelium shows up on the surface,

it indicates poor ventilation and CO2 accumulation of 0.1 to 0.3%;

- When buttons appear inside the mixture, it indicates a delayed

casing or strong air currents present in the mushroom farm.

- When buttons appear in a cluster or misshapen, this is due to air

contamination from gases, smoke, oil products, etc.

Due to the fact that in the household system classic compost is used

with natural pasteurization, some pests may appear in the crop, such as

black flies (Phorideae), which can be repelled with Dimilin 25 WP 0.2%.

Preventively, between harvest runs, a 0.5% Formalin treatment is

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applied, which has a bactericidal, fungicidal, and even a nematicide

action.

Other works that are executed during harvesting are as follows:

The button and diseased mushrooms (soaked) stained, black

weeding. This is done after each harvest. Simultaneously, the remaining

healthy spines remaining from the mushroom harvesting are removed

(only those tabs that no longer show buttons because no other

mushrooms will develop from them. The operation is performed with the

tip of a knife.

Complementary casing. The empty holes that occur after removing the

tabs is filled with casing mixture but only in the immediate vicinity. Other

peat is not added. The work is performed after each harvest so that

water from watering or treatment solution does not run down to the

mycelium and destroy it.

3.1.10. Preventing attacks of saprophytic fungi and pests

Saprophytic fungi (molds) have the ability to inhibit the growth of

mycelium and consume organic matter in the nutrient substrate.

Conditions favoring the emergence of mold are:

- Too high humidity in nutrient substrate (over 68-70%);

- Over composted substrate (hard, thick) with barley and oat straw;

- High temperature and insufficient ventilation in the mushroom

farm; and

- Failure to maintain crop hygiene when entering the mushroom

farm.

The groups of pests that can cause damage to Agaricus bisporus

mushrooms include mosquitoes, flies, wasps, ticks, fleas, and substrate

worms.

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With these groups of insects, both larvae and adults are harmful. If fleas

appear, apply treatment with 0.02% Mospilan and spraywith 10%

calcium hypochlorite.

After the mushrooms appear, treatment with pesticides is no longer

used. If pesticide treatment is absolutely mandatory, then all the

mushrooms are harvested and the recommended treatment is applied

after that. The micro climate for growing culture mushrooms is also

favourable for various saprophytic fungi or parasites and pests.

Contamination with pathogens and amage caused in the crop after

J.Delmas1 989:

Parasitic fungi 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Soft rot - - x x x x x - * Dry rot - - x x x x x - *

Cobweb - - - x x x x - * Saprophyticfungi Green mold x x - - - - - x -

Verdigris agaric - x x - x - x - - White plaster mold

- x x - - - - x -

Brown plaster mold

- x x - - - - x -

False truffle disease

- x - - - x - x -

Green mold - x - - x x - x * Confetti - x x - x - x x - Black mold x x x - x - - - -

Legend: 1 - horse manure; 2 - compost; 3 - crates, wooden shelves; 4 -

area of culture; 5 - ventilation; 6 - casing mixture; 7 - used substrate; 8 -

mycelium; 9 - mushrooms;

x - contamination source; * - hinders growth

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Accurately diagnosing the pathogen or pest is a very important step. In

addition to pathogens and diseases, the mushrooms can be attacked by

pests such as nematodes, mosquitoes, wasps, flies, fleas, ticks, slugs,

etc., which require different treatments from one another. With

mushroom crops, we focus more on prevention than controlling, by

maintaining strict crop hygiene. It is known that within each culture it is

less costly to prevent the attack of pathogens and thereby protect the

environment than to perform many chemical treatments involving the

use of different pesticides.

For an effective control, we will have to know the density, the operating

speed, and the time in which pathogens are propagated. The biological-

mycelium material must be free of pathogens as well as the culture

substrate that will be introduced to the mushroom farm.

Brown ticks attackon mushroombrick- Tyroglyphidae Family

Cultural hygiene measures include the following:

- Protecting the windows and doors with wire mesh lattice to

prevent the entry of pests

- Filtration of the air entering the mushroom, with filterpore as big

as 4-5 microns. Their replacement will be done after each crop

cycle or twice/cycle, depending on the degree of pollution of the

environment. In the absence of the filter, we can improvise one

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from a layer of cotton placed between two layers of gauze, but

only for the classic mushroom farms.

- Avoid the exiting of the vector’s insects from the mushroom

farm; they should be destroyed. These can be carriers of not

only fungi spores but also viruses, bacteria and other pests like

nematodes and mites. Flies can carry the infection from one

farm to another, thus spreading Verticillium sp.and Mycogone

perniciosa.

Mycogone perniciosa, or wet mold

Verticilium sps and acari

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To overcome these deficiencies, it is necessary to store the organic

remnants from the mushroom farm, such as spent compost, casing

mixture, stump residue, spines, etc., as far away as possible since they

favour the maintenance and breeding of insects and pathogens. Also, no

stables or poultry farms should be located nearby.

Feet disinfectiononsponge treatedwithdisinfectant at the

entrance to the mushroom farm

In the production cycle, the used substrate shouldn’t come into contact

with the new prepared substrate. Use clean work clothes and shoes for

the (sowing, watering, casing with mixture, harvest, and application of

phytosanitary treatments. Changing clothes should be done daily to not

spread diseases, such as the one caused by the “La France” virus.

Washing clothes should be done at high temperatures to destroy spores,

at least 122°F for 30 minutes or by boiling. Tools such as pitchforks,

shovels, brooms, buckets, crates, gloves, harvest knives, and even

vehicles and machinery need to be chemically disinfected with a 2%

formalin solution.

Working aisle disinfection is done with a 10% formalin concentration (1

liter of formalin per 10 liters of water/100 cubic meter space); close the

area for eight to ten hours and then vent. Formalin disinfection will be

practiced at a minimum temperature of 59-60°F degrees and at high

relative humidity. At temperatures between 32-60°F, the effect of contact

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disinfection is limited because this substance does not evaporate. The

microclimate factors specific for growing mushrooms also favor the

emergence and growth of pathogens.

Compost with molds

Wood easily allows spore adherence on its surface and their penetration

on the inside, where it grows. Because it is a poor conductor of heat,

during the steam disinfection process, the temperature does not

penetrate its mass evenly. Before thermal disinfection, the wood is

sprayedwith 1% sodium hydroxide, and then the thermal disinfection

takes place with steam at 158°F over 12 hours. Until 1990, ift he timber

in the mushroom farm was infected with the virus that causes the La

France disease, PentacleNa-phenolate was used as a disinfectant, but it

is now banned in Europe. Therefore, mushroom farms began to replace

wood with shelves and culture containers.

Compost infected by Dactylium sp.

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Insect UV light trap

The emergence of diseases is favored by various external factors. The

main diseases that can occur use the following vectors:

Mycogone perniciosa

Pseudobalsamia microspores

Pseudomona stolaasi

Dactylium dendroides

The pests we can encounter are flies, mushroom mosquitoes, or gnats.

Mushroomsattacked by fly larvae

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Harvesting, packaging, and delivery

Mushrooms appear in five to six waves; each wave requires three to six

harvests every two to three days. Breaks between waves can reach up

to 10-12 days. The mushroom harvesting period lasts 45-60-70 days in

inverse ratio with temperature in the culture area, greater at low

temperature of 53-57°F and lower at high temperature of 60-62°F.

The harvest technique consists of separating the mushroom by twisting

it with one hand and holding the bunch with the other hand in order to

not tear it completely. If there are several mushrooms in a bunch,

harvesting is done gradually during the time it takes to reach maturity by

cutting it with a stainless steel knife. Once you have harvested all the

mushrooms from the bunch, remove the spine with the knife tip.

Immediately before harvesting, do not water the crop because the

mushrooms will be plucked with a lot of substrate, causing losses and

impairing their quality by staining, soiling, and even shortening the

storage period.

The optimal timing of harvest corresponds to the appearance of the

vellum. For conservation, the mushrooms are harvested in the button

stage, when they have a diameter of one to two centimeters. If the

optimum time for harvest is exceeded, the vellum breaks, the cap opens

and begins to twist and darken, and the mushrooms lose weight and

market value. The first two waves of harvest produce about half of the

total crop. Harvest losses from cutting the foot base is 15-17%.

The yield in mushroom farming in the classical system is 15-25 kg per

100 kg of mushrooms seeded substrate. After the last harvesting, it is no

longer watered as we prepare for the ending of culture. The substrate

used is removed from the area and stored for use for other purposes, as

far from the mushroom farm as possible. This substrate can be a good

natural fertilizer for different vegetable crops or can be left to be

composted to be transformed into garden soil. The crop area is cleaned,

washed, and disinfected to establish a new crop cycle. Also, the crates

and bags are washed and chemically disinfected (Formalin 2%) for

reuse.

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After harvesting, the mushrooms are sorted based on commercial quality

or destination (fresh consumption or industrialization), either cut or whole

as buttons. It is expected that the mushrooms will be fresh, healthy,

unstained, whole, and without damage caused by pests and diseases.

Depending on the quality, they are sorted by size and vellum integrity

after the presence of casing mixture in different percentages.

Extra quality mushrooms present a closed cap with the complete

vellum. It is allowed to have casing mixture leftovers on the foot covering

0.5% for the cut ones and 3% for the uncut ones.

Mushrooms packed in 3-5 kg crates

Packaging is done in containers of different colors and capacities coated

with PET film. You can keep them refrigerated at 30-40°F for three to

four day swithout losing any weight. Mushrooms preserved in

inadequately large containers lead to weightloss, up to 10-12% and are

damaged by soaking. It is recommended that the mushrooms be packed

and shipped immediately after harvest to the beneficiaries under optimal

conditions, for example, in warm weather with refrigerators.

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3.2 Growing culture technology of thermophile mushrooms -

Agaricus bitorquis Quel. Sacc. sin. Agaricus rodmani Peck. and

Agaricus edulis

This species was first mentioned by Atkinsonin 1922 under the name

Agaricus rodmanii. Since 1968 it has been called Agaricus edulis or

Agaricus bitorquis. In nature, it grows in gardens, on roadsides, on the

sidewalks, or through the asphalt, which is why it is called pavement

mushroom or city mushroom.

3.2.1. Morphological characteristics

Agaricus edulis is a medium-sized mushroom, and its morphological

characteristics are very similar to Agaricus bisporus.

The cap is fleshy and flattened, with a diameter of 5-15cm and 2-3cm

thick flesh. The cuticle is white and smooth and easily breaks off the

cap. A first the form is hemispherical, and as it grows, it stretches,

becoming almost flat, which gives it a slightly toothed form.

The gills are free, thin, and white-gray but then become brown or dark

brown near adulthood.

The foot has stipes and is thick, short (4-10cm), fleshy, 2-4cm in

diameter, and white, with a thinned base in the shape of a triangle

pointing down. The foot has a double ring; the upper ring is highly

developed and compact, while the underside one is thin.

Big Agaricus edulis mushroom with broken vellum

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The flesh hat pulp is compact, white, and cut resistant, with a strong

fragrance. The foot flesh is also white.

The spores (basidiospores) have an elliptical shape and are yellowish,

reddish brown, or chocolate brown in color. The color of the spore dust

is dark brown. They have four spores on the basidium compared to

Agaricus bisporus, which only has two (bisporus).

3.2.2. Microclimate requirements

The Agaricus bitorquis specie is heat-loving, hence the name

thermophile mushroom, and the culture is carried out during the warm

season. The temperature of the mycelium incubation period is 77-80°F,

68-77°F in the air during fruition, and 68-77°F in the compost.

The mushrooms have a saprophytic feeding system that is able to utilize

different carbon sources for growth and to synthesize the substances,

amino acids, and vitamins necessary for growth.

The mycelium of this mushroom specie has a lethal temperature of 95°F.

It is resistant to a high concentration of carbon dioxide, from 0.03% to

0.6% for Agaricus bisporus, thus2 0 times higher than A. bitorquis. It is

more resistant to viruses, thus requiring lower power consumption with

ventilation and heat treatment on the microclimate in the mushroom

farm. Agaricus bitorquisis well suited to be grown cellars, basements,

and underground spaces as well as in the warm season.

3.2.3. Growing Culture Technology

It is similar to Agaricus bisporus in the preparation of compost but with

some small specific features. The compost is made from horse manure,

with the addition of 12-15% wheat straw, called classic compost. For a

ton of compost, 500-600 kg of horse manure is used with straw bedding

and 70-90 kg wheat straw.

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The presoaking of the compost takes place over a period of 12-14 days,

so more extended and aerobic composting for a period of 16-18 days,

during which five mixing turns are executed to obtain short, well-

fermented compost with a brown-blackish color. The compost will have a

pH from 7.3 to 8, and humidity should be 62-71%.

Placing the nutrient substrate and seeding

The substrate can be placed in pressed, flat layers with a thickness of

16-18 cm so that it totals 70-80 kg per square meter. It may also be

placed in polyethylene bags. For sowing, a slightly lower mycelium

sample is used (0.6-0.7%). Seeding is done by mixing after the compost

has cooled below 86°F. After seeding, the layers will be covered with

paper or polyethylene foil.

• During sowing – The synthetic compost should have 69-71% humidity,

and the sample of mycelium is 7 liters/ton.

• During incubation – The temperature in the compost is 82-86°F, and

incubation ends in 13 to 15 days.

• During casing – The casing mixture has a humidity of 72-75% and is 4-

5 cm thick, with scarification at 7-8 days after the casing.

• During fructification induction – The temperature in compost is 68-71°F,

and relative air humidity is 92-93%.

• During fructification – Air temperature is 66-69°F, relative air humidity is

85%, harvesting takes place in 4-6 waves in 5-10 weeks, and there is a

yield of 27-32 kg per square meter.

The spreading or mycelium incubation

For an optimal incubation, it is recommended that the temperature of the

substrate should be between 77 and 82°F; according to some, it could

reach up to 89°F. The relative humidity of the air will be 90-95% or more.

In the first 15 days after sowing, it is not mandatory to have conducted

ventilation; the air demand is 0.5-1 cubic meters per hour for one square

meter, supporting high concentrations of CO2.

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Applying the casing mixture The casing mixture used is identical and has a thickness of 3.5-4cm.

Water is splashed on the mixture, and treatments with fungicidal

substances are done for the prevention of saprophytic fungi. The

insecticide treatment is effective for three weeks.

During the four weeks after the casing, the fresh airwill be increased at

two air changes per hour, relative air humidity will be maintained at90-

95%, and the temperature in the mushroom farmis maintained at 68-

77°F.

The first wave of mushrooms appears

Harvesting

The first wave of harvest begins 28-30 days from the casing or 35-40

days after sowing, so later than for Agaricus bisporus. A wave of harvest

takes place over a period of 10-15 days. During harvesting, ventilation

will increase to two to three air changes per hour, with a running time of

10 minutes per hour. Watering will total 1-2 liters/square meter and will

be reduced towards the end of the culture to 0.5 liter/square meter,

correlated with the amount of mushrooms that are harvested.

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During harvesting, six to eight waves will succeed throughout three to

four months in the classical system, so there is a longer harvest period

than for Agaricus bisporus. The total output obtained may be between

25-28 kg/square meter, and the losses from cutting the foot base will be

8-10% compared to the other specie, which has a 15-17% loss; this

species has a short leg.

Crop protection

The microclimate for growing culture mushrooms is also favorable for

various saprophytic fungi or parasites and pests. To prevent the

occurrence of these pathogens, the application of preventive

phytosanitary treatments is needed besides keeping culture hygiene.

Agaricus bitorquis is more resistant to viruses. The main diseases that

can occur are below:

Pseudobalsamia microspores

Pseudomonas tolaasi

Verticillium psalliotae

Dactylium dendroides

The pests we can encounter areflies, mushroom mosquitoes, or gnats.

The specie is more resistant to macrophage nematode esattack.

Agaricus edulis crop

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The mushrooms have a saprophytic feeding system that is able to utilize

different carbons ources and to synthesize the substances, aminoacids,

and vitamins necessary for growth.

3.3 Growing mushrooms in open, unprotected areas

Because many mushrooms species of the genus Agaricus grow in the

spontaneous flora, it is understandable that we can arrange growth

areas in open spaces, such as gardens, orchards, and natural or

artificial shady places, with both northern and southern exposure,

depending on when we want to grow the crop without major

investments. It is not recommended to use land areas on which different

chemicals, fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, etc., were applied. The

mushrooms can grow directly on the ground or on the substrate placed

in different containers, boxes, crates, or baskets. We just have to take

into account the preferences of each species of mushroom.

It is known that mushrooms are found on manure, on land fertilized by it,

near the stables where manure was discarded, on organic grazing or

pastures that also contain significant amounts of organic matter, and

also in forests where there is much decaying organic matter.

Agaricus arvensis mushroom

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In spring or autumn, and sometimes during the cold, rainy summer,

people say, “Springing up like mushrooms after the rain.” From this, we

note that they grow at lower temperature thresholds, on fertilized soil,

and in high humidity. They appear when the soil temperature has

reached a minimum of 42°F and relative air humidity is above 70%.

Lightened, permeable soil with good ventilation on which water will not

puddle is preferred. The most suitable soils are river fields, the sandy

soil on river beds, and soil where there is stagnant water and humidity.

However, if the land does not meet these conditions, then human

intervention will be needed. On the surface of the improper soil, a layer

of river sand is applied approximately 10 centimeters thick, mixed with

lime every 0.5-1 kg per square meter to decrease little the acidity, on

which we apply a thick layer of approximately 15 inches of garden soil.

All these layers will be incorporated into the soil to a depth of 30 cm,

after which it is abundantly watered two to three times during three to

four weeks. On the contrary, if it is too light and sandy, it is

recommended to apply half-fermented manure

If you want a mushroom crop in early spring, then choose an area

sheltered from the cold winds of spring and exposed to the south to

warm up faster.

The soil, to which incompletely fermented manure or even spent

mushroom compost was applied, is plowed to a depth of 30-40 cm.

3.3.1. The first method of sowing mycelium takes place in

ground holes

Ground holes are dug here and there with a size of 50x50 cm. There can

be other options, and with a depth of approximately 40 centimeters, they

are then filled with horse manure litter on the straw layer that started the

fermentation. Press it well, and add the Agaricus bisporus mycelium in

several nests, or simply sprinkle it above as control mycelium is applied

on the bags after sowing. Above ground, the soil is covered with a thick

layer of approximately 15 centimeters by the soil removed from the dug

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holes. On this soil, we can plant vegetables that do not have a deep root

system. Recommended vegetables are dill, lettuce, parsley, onions

through direct seeding, radishes, etc.

These vegetables will be cared for according to their own guidelines,

and the only note is that the watering should be done with a sprinkler

with a fine spray. If planting vegetables is not possible, then we will

apply a layer of straw or manure of 8-10 cm thickness, which will be kept

moist by watering.

3.3.2 The second method of sowing mycelium takes place

in ditches

In the soil prepared as for the first method, we dig up ditches 50 cm

deep and 80-100 cm wide. The length depends on the soil surface. A

machine can be used for making the ditches. In the ditches, we also

apply fresh manure or less fermented manure, press it down, and

spread mycelium over it; we also cover it with a soil layer that is

approximately 15 centimeter thick. We proceed in the same was as the

first method (i.e., planting vegetables or cover and watering it).

The yields obtained will be directly proportional to the weather

conditions. If the weather is cool and moist, especially if you are in high

altitudes, you can harvest even during the summer. The crop can last for

two to three years. After exhausting the crop, it is recommended to

renew it by applying fresh manure and mycelium. We can also try with

other species of wild mushrooms, not just those that appear in autumn.

3.4 AGARICUS BRASILIENSIS (AGARICUS BLAZEI

MURILL, the mushroom of the Lord, or God’s

mushroom), ABMORMILENA

Popular names include Piedade mushroom, royal mushroom, almond

mushroom, sun mushroom, God’s mushroom, milena, ABM (Agaricus

blazei Murill), Song Ji Rong in China, Himematsutake, Agaricusutake or

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kawarihiratake in Japan, and Cogumelo do sol or Medicinal in Brazil.

Stamets, a great specialist in the U.S., proposed the name King

Agaricus or Portobello Almond.

The first writings about this mushroom species date from the 14th to 15th

century, from the Byzantine medicine treaty in the Mediterranean by

Apuleius, which treated malignant ulcers and the ones of the larynx. It

was rediscovered in 1960 by Takatoshi Furumato, who began to

cultivate and study it. Agaricus subrufescens was first described in 1893

by C.H. Peck, a New York botanist, and it was grown in 1892 in New

York by Blen Cove. It seems that the two species are synonymous.

It is eaten around the globe and is well-loved in China, Japan, Mexico,

and Brazil. The species was grown in Japan, China, Brazil, South Korea,

and the U.S. then spread to Europe in the former Yugoslavia, Italy,

Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, and so on.

Agaricus brasiliensis crop

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3.4.1. Morphological characteristics

It is a highly valued edible and medicinal mushroom. It grows

spontaneously in different areas and is found from the tropics to the

boreal regions, growing in different habitats, froma lpine meadows to

salty and sandy soils, in both deciduous and coniferous forests. It

prefers soils rich in ligninolytic remains and soil fattened with the manure

of domestic animals, especially cattle and horses.

Agaricus brasiliensis

The cap is thick, fleshy, 5-11cm in diameter, semi-spherical at first but

then becomes convex, and smooth on the edgesand with scales in the

center; it is either off white, a creamy-yellow color like almonds, or brown

to dark brown. Onthe edge of the cap, pieces of veilremain attached; it

has almond flavor. The gills are free, dense, with a width of 8-10mm of

white, pale pink color when young and chocolate-brown color later on.

The basidiospores have a dark brown toc hocolate like color, have a

wide elliptical shape to oviform, and do not have epispor. The foot is

short and hard like a column, cylindrical, white in color, and fastened by

a mycelium pedestal. If it is touched, it will turn yellow. A ring remains on

the foot after the breaking of the vellum orv eil. The length is 6-13cm

with a diameter of 1-3cm.

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3.4.2. Growing conditions

Pasteurized compost enriched with nitrogen is used for the crop.

Mycelium is obtained easily at an optimum temperature of 73-80°F.

Optimum humidity of substrate is 55-60%, and the optimum humidity of

the casing mixture is 60-65%. Humidity in the mushroom farm will be

maintained at values of 80-85%. For growing, the mycelium does not

need light. However, it requires slight illumination during basidiofruits

formation. Air conditions are high, both in the mycelium incubation as

well as during fruiting. The optimum pH compost value is 8.

The crop can be grown similarly to Agaricus species in greenhouses or

in modern mushroom farms. In Beijing, the culture is practiced in two

cycles per year, spring and fall, when a temperature between 60-83°F

can be maintained. In Brazil, there is an optimal climate for growing

these mushrooms, with temperatures in Piedade of around 95°F during

the day and 65-75°F at night and a relative air humidity of 80% both

during the day and night. The appearance of mushrooms occurs 30 days

after sowing.

3.4.3 Preparing the compost

The compost for growth is based on sugar cane, which is a kind of base

material with added peanut husks, wheat bran, corn, livestock and

poultry manure, plus some fertilizers such as urea, ammonium sulfate,

ammonium nitrate and other nitrogen sources. Dry and fresh materials

are preferred.

Ag. Brasiliensis compost

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To produce compost for planting, this species is grown wheret hese

items are easily available. For pHc orrection, plaster and lime powder is

used.

One of the recipes include 50% sun flower husk, 41% wheat straw, 4.5%

wheat bran, and supplements and additives until an efficient compost is

obtained. Nitrogenc oncentration is recommended to be between 1.5-

2%, and compost supplementation is done with urea, manure, or

ammonium nitrate. Furthermore, we mention that these materials are

watered and allowed to compost as in the case for Agaricus bisporus

mushrooms. Compost preparation time is 30 days. The compost is

turned three times.

3.4.4 Setting up crop and microclimate conditions

The compost is then spread in a layer with a 20 cm thickness, after it is

well winded so that it does not contain ammonia. It is seeded with

mycelium in the rate of 750 ml/m².

After sowing, it is covered with polythene foil. The temperature is

maintained at 75-82°F and relative air humidity at 75-85%. It is ventilated

every day. At approximately 20 days after sowing, when the mycelium

has entered into the compost by two-thirds, apply the coating mixture.

The coating mixture is based on peat or river sand mixed with lime

powder for a pH value of 9.

The thickness of the coating will be 4-5 cm. In mushroom farms, 10-15

kg mushrooms are obtained for every square meter, and in open fields,

3 kg mushrooms per square meter/m² are obtained. From a 20 kg block

of compost, 3 kg of mushrooms are harvested in three or four waves.

Harvesting takes three to four months in four to five waves. Mushrooms

are harvested with closed or partially torn vellum.

In Japan it is grown in open fields at an altitude of 1000 m on soils

naturally fattened by cattle and horse manure. Mushrooms are kept

fresh at a temperature of 37-40°F.

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Chapter 4: Culture technology of

Pleurotus spp. in classical system

There are several species of mushrooms belonging to the Pleurotus

genus. The most important species is Pleurotus ostreatus, and the most

precious species is Pleurotus eryngii. Other species are P. sajor-caju, P.

cornucopiae, Pleurotus Djamor, Pleurotus cystidiosus, Pleurotus

citrinopileatus, Pleurotus euosmus, Pleurotus pulmonarius, Pleurotus

columbinus, etc.

4.1. Pleurotus ostreatus - morphology and

importance

It is the second mushroom in the world, after champignon, in

measurements of culture area, but in Asia, it is dethroned by shiitake.

The mushroom is formed by the cap and the leg. The cap is placed

asymmetrically to the foot, with a smooth surface, and appears at first to

be a dark or even black color with shades of purple or gray-brown, and

as it grows, it begins to lighten its color. The color varies depending on

the species, hybrid, and illumination of growing area. Carpophores vary

greatly in size, from a few cm to 20-25 cm, bigger at P. ostreatus and

smaller in other species, but frequently encountered sizes are 7-10 cm

weighing between 5-20 grams.

Phenological growth phases of Pleurotus mushroom cap are as follows:

- Primordia

- Convex edge

- Straight edge

- Concave edge

- Twisted edge

- Cornet

The pulp of the hat is white with a pleasant odor, and it is thicker in the

center and thinner on the outside. The gills are white and are formed

from the edge to near the bottom of the foot. Basidiosporeseasily

germinate in two to three days. The spores are cylindrical with

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dimensions of 8-13 and 3-4 microns; white, pale purple, and rose in

color; and easily germinate (2-3 days) on liquid and agar media in the

laboratory at a rate of 100%.

Spores are produced after the first slide bazidiala is made, and because

of this, their spread or dissemination is done in stages from the early

phenological phases of carpophores. Pleurotus mushrooms have no veil

covering the basidiale blades, unlike the Agaricus genus. The foot is

located marginal to the hat, compact, white pulp and a light gray color on

the exterior. At mushroom maturity, the foot gets a spongy consistency.

Characteristic of this mushroom species’ leg is that its size is influenced

by light, ventilation, and microclimate conditions. Pleurotus ostreatus

appearance is usually in bunches, which can contain up to 10-20

carpophores. Mushrooms at the bottom of the bouquet are larger than

those at the top. Not all mushrooms in a bouquet mature however; part

of the base of the bouquet withers and does not develop.

The legs are inserted next to each other in the mycelium base. When the

cap reaches the cone stage, the leg gets a spongy consistency and

becomes lignified and hard, losing most of its edible qualities. To avoid

this, the mushrooms should be harvested earlier, when the cap is spread

horizontally and the edges of the cap are straight, jagged, wavy, fringed,

etc.

Pleurotus ostreatus

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The nutritional value of Pleurotus spp. is given by the high protein

content (2.7 to 4.0% dw) of carbohydrates (3.5 to 5.0%) and minerals

(0,1- 1.0%).

The chemical composition oftwo species of Pleurotus-su% Specification Pl.ostreatus Pl.sajor-caju

Proteins 7.0-41.6 2.66-47.0 Carbohydrates 16.7-81.8 53.5-64.0 Lipids 1.0-6.9 1.7-2.2

Ash 2.1-9.8 6.4-67 The nutritional value of a food product depends mainly on two factors:

the chemical composition and the digestibility of the compounds that are

included in it. The chemical composition varies from species to species,

and for intra-species, it depends on the mushroom development stage,

the nutrient substrate on which it develops, the part considered (cap, leg,

etc.), climatic conditions, the growth period, etc. The digestibility of

various substances contained by the chemical composition, even if they

theoretically remain constant, may change in comparison with other

substances participating in a food composition. Viewed from this

perspective, mushrooms are a food with high nutritional value.

The protein content of fresh mushrooms is 3-5% depending on the

species and hybrid. In the structure of complex proteins, 18 amino acids,

including eight essential ones, are present. The content of

carbohydrates in the form of xylose, ribose, glucose, sucrose, mannitol,

and others, proved to be the highest in young mushrooms, even more in

the cap compared to the leg. As the fungus matures, the sugars are

consumed during the formation of spores. In fresh mushrooms, fat

content is 0.5% and is used by the body as an energy source. Fats in

mushrooms are found only in combined form (agaricine, lecithins,

ergosterine, phosphatides).

In comparison with other substances that are part of mushrooms, the

minerals have a low content. Mineral substances include potassium,

phosphorus, silicon and calcium in greater amounts and iron, copper,

magnesium, sodium, chlorine, etc., in smaller quantities.

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Enzymes are organic compounds of protein origin that are present in the

living cells and have the role of synthesizing and degrading of organic

substances, resulting in the production and storage of energy.

Mushrooms are the only “vegetables” that contain B vitamins (thiamin,

riboflavin, pyridoxine, cobalamin, niacin, and pantothenic acid). Vitamin

A (retinol) is found in the form of carotene, and a lack of it leads to eye

and skin disorders, etc.

Vitamin D (cholecalciferol) is a group of substances in animal

organisms, and when it comes to plants, it is found only in mushrooms;

in this group, the most important is vitamin D2 (calciferol), whose

essential role is dietary calcium and phosphorus absorption. Biotin

belongs to the group of B vitamins, is widespread in nature, and is an

essential growth factor; the lack of this vitamin in the diet can lead to a

severe form of anemia. Vitamin K has antihemorrhagic action, and

nicotinamide is a B vitamin that is essential in the prevention of pellagra.

Fresh mushrooms contain 28 calories.

Nutritional value, mineral and vitamincontentinPl.ostreatusandPl.eryngii,

according to J.I.Lelley and Y. Vetter, 2007 (minerals are calculated in

mg/kg s.u. and vitamins are in micrograms/kg s.u.)

Component Pl.ostreatus Somycel HK 35

Pl.ostreatus Amycel 3015

Pl.eryngii

Dried substance %

8.22 7.75 15.44

Raw protein 17.67 17.32 25.02 Raw Fat 1.67 1.56 2.95 Raw fiber 8.28 7.98 6.04

Chitin % s.u. 4.77 4.95 4.77 Ash % s.u. 7.60 9.42 10.05 Aluminum 22.3 16.3 13.4 Arsenic up to 0.05 up to 0.05 up to 0.05

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Boron 3.23 4.97 16.45 barium 1.57 1.42 1.52

Calcium 538 684 687 Cadmium 1.12 0.59 1.56 Cobalt up to 0.002 up to 0.002 up to

0.002

Chromium 2.60 1.17 1.34 Copper 13.8 10.8 16.2 Iron 108.0 77.5 42.0 Potassium 26960 34846 35750

Magnesium 1295 1643 1595 Manganese 8.76 9.14 13.0 Molybdenum 1.12 up to 0.005 0.84

Sodium 205 189 251 Phosphorus 6300 7461 9995 Mercury 0.94 0.45 0.59 Selenium 1.60 0.50 1.42

Strontium 4.64 5.80 6.54 Titanium 0.43 0.37 - Vanadium up to 0.005 0.16 0.12 Zinc 79.8 80.2 80.7

Vitamin A 36.5 35.2 37.1 Vitamin B 1 6.1 5.7 5.1 Vitamin B 2 2.7 7.1 2.0

Vitamin B 6 6.5 5.5 3.8 Vitamin D 2 35.7 91.7 84.4 Vitamin D 3 212.3 235.9 187.6

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Mushrooms have a particular taste and aroma and therefore can be

eaten as a staple food by diabetics because they do not contain starch

that turns to sugar in the body. Mushrooms contain small amounts of salt

and do not contain cholesterol, saturated fats, and sugars, which are

harmful to the human body.

4.2. Culture technology in classical system

The culture techniques widely used is classical culture, in the household

system, require relatively small spaces with minimal amendments.

The main culture technology includes the following major technological

stages:

- The preparation, the setting, and the disinfection of crop area

- Purchasing and preparing cellulosic substrate

- Shredding, chopping, grinding

- Homogenization (mixing)

- Wetting

- Thermal disinfection

- Cooling and removing the excess moisture

- Weighing

- Substrate quality assessment

- Sowing and application of the amendment

- Distribution in containers

- Applying microclimate conditions differentiated according to the

stage of the culture

- Placing containers after incubation

- Care and harvesting work

- Ejecting spent lignocellulosic substrate

- Preparing and disinfecting the area for a new crop

Depending on the existing facilities, the culture can take place in the

classical system (i.e., household) with two cycles (crops) per year or in

an intensive industrial system with four to nine crop cycles per year. The

space for Pleurotus spp. mushroom culture will have to provide optimal

environmental conditions to obtain high yields throughout the year.

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Pleurotas ostreatus P80 hybrid

4.3. Areas used in classical culture system

In this system, you can use the following areas:

- Open spaces (outdoors)

- Partially closed (sheds, warehouses, balconies)

- Closed (cellars, stables, verandas, solariums, attics, warehouses,

cold storage, greenhouses, chicken farms)

The closed premises, even temporarily, are recommended to be

equipped with the following utilities and facilities:

- Installation of drinkable water and sewer

- Installation of ventilation ducts

- Lighting installation

- Installation of heating and air cooling, if applicable

- Racks and shelves

The crop area itself is not a factor that influences the production of

Pleurotus spp.; only the microclimate conditions provided and optimized

by the grower’s intervention can affect the crop.

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4.4. Setting up the culture area

Whatever type of space is used, it will require some specific

arrangements depending on the crop species and culture systema

dopted.

After installing utilities, a water supply, sewerage, and lighting facilities,

you proceed to install the ventilation system provided with an

acclimatization system (i.e., heating and cooling), which is not to be

confused with air conditioning in apartments and offices.

4.4.1. Ventilation system

If space is limited and we do not put compost bags or other recipients

suspended on several levels, ventilation can be done easily by opening

the access door and a window opposite the door. Thus air flow is

created and the culture air from the chamber is refreshed. The door and

window should be equipped with thick nets, especially during summer,

when insects appear. When the bags are placed vertically on several

levels, more air is required, and it is recommended that you install a

ventilation system that allows more oxygen intake. Pleurotus sp. are

high consumers of oxygen during fructification.

The ventilation system should be installed above the container with

nutrient substrate, affixed to the ceiling, and consist of a fan; it will direct

and homogenize the air for the entire crop space. Independent of this

system, an exhaust fan with smaller capacity can be installed to

evacuate the air laden with carbon dioxide, metabolism gases, and

spores. The air intake fan that takes oxygen from the external

environment will have the capacity of 8-10 air changes/hour. The air

taken from the outdoors will be heated in cold weather or cooled in hot

weather and then introduced through the ventilation ducts and

distributed through small openings around the entire mushroom farm.

The ventilation system can be composed of one independently for each

area or be a common one for a smaller mushroom farm.

The fresh air intake vents should be equipped with filters designed to

retain dust, fungus and competing mushroom spores, and some pests.

In the case of classical household mushroom farms, filters can be

improvised from two layers of cheesecloth, between which a layer of

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medicinal cotton with a thickness of about one centimeter will be placed.

Filters, regardless of their structure, will be changed after contamination

depending on the degree of pollution in the environment that they can

withstand for 20 or 30 days.

Fan piping will be made of tinplate where the direction changes (it forms

elbows) and from polyethylene foil where it forms a straight line. The

diameter will range between 20 and 50 cm depending on the amount of

air to be circulated (admitted and recycled) and should be located at

least 60-70 cm above the last layer of mushrooms, up to the ceiling.

Along the pipe will be two rows of holes, alternatively, with a diameter of

about 2-6 cm, through which the air will be distributed in the crop space

with a speed of 0.2-0.3 m/sec.

Stale air exhaust loaded with carbon dioxide and fungal spores will be

achieved through exhaust fans installed 10-20 cm above the floor and

opposite the fan.

Underground crop of Pleurotus spp

In the case of classic mushroom farms with reduced crop space, foul air

evacuation can be made freely through pressure by installing some

small windows opposite the fan at floor level, alongside the ventilation

ducts. Fan capacity is calculated based on the area of culture and

mushroom production. Thus, to obtain a kg of mushroom per square

meter of the crop, it is required to ensure a volume of one cubic meter of

fresh air per hour.

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Air demand in Pleurotus spp. mushroom crop is variable depending on

the phonological stage of mushrooms (mycelium incubation, induction of

fructification, harvest, interval between harvest waves).

Amycel 3015

In the incubation or the growth phase of mycelium in the growing

substrate, the fresh air demand is low or almost nonexistent. Therefore,

at this stage, only a recirculating of indoor air is done (absorption of the

air from the floor charged with CO2 and distributing it though the holes in

the ceiling ducts). If this isn’t done, the air laden with CO2, which is

heavier, will accumulate on the floor and become toxic to the growing

mycelium on the bottom containers. Another very important aspect is

that this CO2-laden air is what the grower is breathing and can cause

asphyxiation since it has no smell.

The need for oxygen appears in the induction phase of fructifications. In

this phase, an air flow of 150 cubic meter per hour for each ton of

substrate at a speed of 0.2-0.3 m/sec is required. If the speed of air

exceeds the, drying of substrate and emerging primordia occur.

Lack of ventilation causes mushroom’s foot elongation, and too strong

dry air currents will dry the wooden rods and primordia, resulting in

fructification cessation and culture limitation to a single wave.

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4.4.2. Shelves placement

It is not recommended to use wood for the shelves. Because they do not

need exposure to light during the incubation stage, we can put shelves

along the walls on the entire length of the mushroom farm. The shelves

can have a width of 30-40 cm (for simple ones), on which we will

accommodate a row of bags, and a width of 60-80 cm for the double

ones, on which we will place two rows of bags. Between shelves, we will

form alleys that will allow access for the work cares, harvesting and

access of air through ventilation.

The vertical distance between the levels is determined by the length of

the bags used for the sowing phase. If the bags have a length of 70 cm,

then we leave 15-20 cm above them, thus making a total of 90 cm. The

first rack from the floor will be located at 0.2 m, the second at 0.9 m from

the first, the third at 0.9 m from the second, and so on. Over the last

level, we leave a space of about one meter from the ceiling so that the

ventilation system can be installed. In the crop room, the incubated bags

can be placed on shelves made in the same way as the others, or they

may be placed in other ways, as follows:

- Suspended or hung from the ceiling

- Stuck in metal rods fixed in the floor

Crop with bags stuck on metal rods

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The harvesting rooms, compared to the incubation rooms, will be

equipped with alighting installation composed of 40W fluorescent lamps

mounted onthe ceiling andside walls to give light to the wooden rods

fromall levels.The light intensity will be provided in accordance with the

light requirements of each species of cultivated Pleurotus or for each

hybrid.

4.4.3. Disinfecting the culture area

For the success of a mushroom crop, regardless of the species

cultivated or used space, the sanitation works is important. The hygiene

during crop foundation may largely influence the conduct and yields

achieved, which may hamper or partly or completely eliminate a possible

attack by pests and diseases.

After the appropriate amendments, we move to the sanitation stage,

which consists of pest control and cleaning and washing organic or other

debris. These areas are subject to a more stringent disinfection

compared to newly built spaces that did not come in contact with molds

or other various pests.

The cheapest and handiest disinfection of the space is made with lime

concentration of 20% (whitewash) with 3-5% copper sulfate added for

old spaces that previously had another use. One to two days before

inserting sown bags, apply a treatment with formaldehyde solution (40%)

at a concentration of 2%. (Using a mask during application is required

because it irritates airways.)

4.5. Crop substrate

Mushroom crops frequently use auxiliary materials or waste from

agriculture, forestry, wood processing, textiles, vegetable oils extraction,

medicinal herbs, etc. These species of mushrooms are susceptible to

the nutrient substrate quality on which the culture is unfolded.

The best material used as a substrate is based on cereal straw, of which

wheat is preferred. In areas where cereal grains are not the predominate

culture, corn cobs and stalks are used; others use sawdust and wood

shavings from hardwood species (the resinous is not recommended;

only if it’s mixed with other materials and in the proportion of 10%).

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Along with materials mentioned above, there are also different materials

used for protein intake of organic nitrogen, such as soy grits, barley

grains from breweries, wheat bran, barley or barley grits, corn flour, etc.

Protein materials are used in a recipe in a proportion of 1-10%.

Chemical analysis of agricultural waste

Material name

S.D.O.%

s.u.%

Ash % Organic Substances

Raw Protein

Raw Cellulose

Extract

Oat straw

49 5.5 5.5 82.0 3.2 38.5 40.9

Autumnwheatstraw

43 5.5 5.5 82.0 3.2 38.5 38.8

Spring wheatstraw

43 6.1 6.0 81.4 3.0 37.6 39.4

Springbarleystraw

42 5.2 5.2 82.3 3.3 35.0 42.4

Sorghumstraw

55 6.0 6.0 81.5 4.2 35.0 42.5

Ricestraw

40 15.4

15.4 72.1 4.0 32.4 35.9

Soybeanstalk

53 86.0

8.2 77.8 7.2 10.9 37.2

Soybeanpods

61 89.0

8.3 10.7 6.0 30.3 42.9

Sunflower hats

56 90.0

10.0 80.0 2.8 1.8 49.0

Grape vine

46 84.0

3.8 80.2 2.5 37.8 37.8

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Peavine 48 86.0

6.3 79.7 8.2 35.7 34.3

Lucerne straw

47 85.0

6.5 79.7 4.5 37.1 37.0

Cornstalks

55 75.5

6.6 79.5 4.1 37.1 37

Barley hulls

44 87.5

1.3 74.5 3.9 27.6 41.0

Wheatchaff

43 87.5

10.9 76.6 4.6 28.5 41.7

Corncobs

56 87.6

1.9 85.6 2.5 30.6 53.1

Peas shells

56 86.0

5.8 80.2 10.1 35.3 33.7

Sunflowerhusk

13 90.0

2.0 86.3 3.6 59.7 23.8

Soybeanhulls

- 90.7

4.7 87.0 11.0 36.0 37.0

Sugar beet noodles

83 90.0

6.4 83.6 9.9 15.5 57.3

SDO = organic matter digestibility coefficient A recipe for cellulosic or lignocellulosic substrate comprises:

- Raw materials - between 70-95%

- Auxiliary materials (optional) - 10-25%

- Protein materials (optional) - 1-10%

- Amendment - between 0.4 to 5%

All materials used for the cultivation of these species of mushrooms

should be clean (without any residues), healthy (without molds or

fermented), without foreign bodies, not older than one year, with their

original color (not blackened from rain), and kept under optimal

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conditions (not mixed together). Depending on the material used, it goes

through a preparation process that consists of grinding (straw at 4-6 cm),

crunching (cobs at 1-2 cm), or champing (barley grains). Amendments

should come in powder form, not lumps (should be crushed if the case).

The amendments are represented by one of the calcium-based

materials:

Calcium carbonate, also called feed chalk (CaCO3) is used in an

amount of 3-5%.

- Gypsum or calcium sulfate (CaSO4) is used in a ratio of 2%.

- Powdered lime (calcium oxide - CaO) is used in a proportion of

0.4%.

These proportions are calculated per 100 kg wet and thermally

disinfected lignocellulose material. Based on these recommendations,

each grower can produce a nutrient substrate recipe from the materials

that he can procure at low cost. I would like to mention that a substrate-

based crop straw is better than one based on hardwood sawdust

because it is harder for the mycelium to gain access compared to the

cellulose from straw.

Substrate recipes Raw

material % Auxiliary

material % Amendment %

1 Straw 40 - - Feed Chalk 6

Cobsandcorn cobs

30 - -

Wood chips 24 - - 2 Straw 60 - - Feed Chalk 5

Cobsandcorn cobs

35 - -

3 Straw 10 -

-

Feed Chalk 5

Cobsandcorn cobs

50 - -

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Wood chips 35 - - 4 Cobsandcorn

cobs 20 -

- Feed Chalk 5

Wood chips 50 - - Sawdust 25 - -

5 Cobsandcorn cobs

50 - - Feed Chalk 6

Wood chips 30 - - Leaves 14 - -

6 Straw 50 Bran 10 Feed Chalk 6

Tree bark 34 - - 7 Straw 50 Vines 15 Feed Chalk 5

Tree bark 20 Bran 10

8 Straw 30 - - Feed Chalk 5 Cobsandcorn cobs

30 - -

Leaves 35 - -

FINAL THOUGHTS Growing your own mushrooms at home requires a lot of dedication. It’s more than a simple hobby; it’s a very precise form of gardening and science all in one. But it can be achieved by anyone who’s passionate and careful enough. Don’t get scared by basic biology and chemistry but instead roll up your sleeves and start your own mushroom crops without fear. At first glance, it might seem complicated, but it’s far simpler than it may look. Just pay close attention to each step. Be careful while using dangerous chemicals or compounds, and respect the guidelines. Also respect the guidelines as far as dangerous mushrooms are concerned. Do things by the book, and you’ll have superior mushrooms to any you can find at the supermarket.

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The Lost Art of Preserving Food Off-Grid

Meat Preservation Methods

Before refrigeration, people relied on salt and smoke to preserve their meat. Most people lived on family farms, and the smokehouse was as familiar as the outhouse. Refrigeration changed the way we did a lot of things, but one thing it did not change was our taste for the flavor of smoked meat. In an SHTF event, chances are that you will not be able to rely on your fridge to preserve your food as usual. People can get overly reliant on fridges to store their food, and this can be a problem. If you don’t have access to a fridge anymore, what will you do? How will you preserve your meat for later use? People have been using other methods to preserve their food for centuries. This knowledge can be real useful.

You can start by taking a look in your kitchen. Examine how much food you have, and think how much of it would spoil without refrigeration.

Meat would be the first to go once you lose electricity, but spoiling can

be prevented using old-fashioned techniques. Methods such as smoking

and curing are just two examples, and they are efficient when it comes

to keeping meat from spoiling.

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Facts About Smoking

Smoking meat is one of the most beloved conservations methods, and it

greatly improves the taste as the smoke contributes as a flavor

enhancer. Smoking is technique and art alike, and it serves as a means

to obtain properly conserved meat products with superior taste and

flavor.

Smoking is the oldest method known to man for increasing the durability

and enhancing the flavor of various foods, especially meat, fish, and

cheese. There is a vast amount of anthropological evidence that

indicates that smoking has been used by man ever since the prehistoric

age. When smoking, food is exposed to the aerosol fumes that are a

direct result of the burning of the sawdust, which is combined with dry

distillation (pyrolysis) in order to increase durability, enhance the taste,

and add an overall smoky smell. The base principlethat serves as the

foundation for smoking,abiosis, manifests itself through the exercised

action of the antiseptics contained in the smoke (acetic aldehyde,

phenolic compounds, and formalin). Xeroanabiosis is the

complementary process to abiosis, and it manifests itself by dehydrating

the tissue as a consequence of prolonged exposure to the heat.

From a physio-chemical perspective, smoke is an aerosol comprised of

a dispersion faze (a mixture of incondensable gases like CO2, CO, H2,

CH4,and organic substances in acid, alcohol, and aldehyde state as well

as water vapors) and a dispersed faze,which is constituted of organic

substances shaped as liquid particles, tars (a mixture of aromatic

hydrocarbons, phenols, cresols, guaiacol, and xylenol), soot, and ash.

The quality of the smoke is a catalyst for a superior taste, smell, and

overall flavor, and it’s highly dependent on the quality of the wood that’s

being used.

This is precisely why the best soot for the job is obtained from hardwood

(beech, oak, maple) so that the smoke will be of superior quality and rich

in aromatic compounds, which are responsible for the characteristic

smoky flavor.

The unique aroma that comes with smoking is probably the

characteristic that is worth mentioning first as it confers food a distinct

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and unforgettable flavor, as well as color and texture, and, last but not

least, preservability. Preserving food for long periods of time under

proper storage conditions was the first goal of smoking. A very

important factor to consider in the context of smoking is the health of the

animals that provided the meat; the healthier the beast, the tastier the

meat.

Game meat can be preserved in three ways:

- Cured and dried

- Cured and smoked

- Sausages

Smoking Meat and Meat-Based Products

Before the development of cooling and freezing technologies, the main

means of meat conservation were salting, smoking, and drying. Smoking

the meat doesn’t only work as an excellent conservation tool but it also

adds a specific taste, which is doubled by the native taste of meat and

certain spices to make for an overall fantastic flavor. And of course, not

any smoke will do; the smoke intended for smoking food should meet

certain requirements for obtaining flavorful and healthy products. The

main analytical indicators for an impeccable hygiene are the so called

aromatic polycyclic hydrocarbons. In order to maintain their

harmlessness to human health, you need to add a microgram of

benzopyrene for every 2.2 pounds of product.

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How the Chemical Components in the Smoke Affect the

Meat

The smoke is a direct result of organic materials. The maximum

efficiency of a modern burning installation is obtained by the complete

burning of the materials, out of which you get a relatively small quantity

of smoke. What’s believed to be optimum exploitation of energy content

resulting from combustion materials is not necessarily valid as far as

smoking is concerned. In this case, the smoke is derived from the

incomplete burning of the firewood. Certain components of the firewood

(cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin) will thermally decompose prior to

being dissolved in various smoke-producing components through

oxidation. Thermal degradation is known as pyrolysis. The quality of the

wood and the temperature are key factors to obtaining high-quality

smoke.

Smoked-Induced Flavor

The typical flavor of smoked meats is obtained by combining the smoke

with the meat and various spices. If the meat hasn’t been maturated long

enough, you’ll obtain a sort of “green” and “raw” taste, reminiscent of the

flavor of fresh meat. If this isn’t the aroma you’re aiming for and you’d

rather have something more refined as well as a more harmonious

joining of flavors, let the meat sit for longer, even on temperatures of

120°F.

Smoked-Induced Color

Getting the right color for the meat product is directly dependent on the

nature of the meat, on the smoking technique, and on the duration of the

smoking process. Traditionally, smoked products will have a golden-

yellow or golden-brown color. The color is a direct result of exposure to

the acids in the smoke but even more so as a result of the chemical

processes that occur between the smoke and the product subjected to

smoking. This is precisely why the product should be perfectly dry before

being smoke as soot will build up rather fast on wet meat. Soot deposits

appear like black spots, and they should be avoided at any cost.

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Making the Smoke

Smoke can be obtained through various technological means. Two of

these fulfill a very important role. In principle, traditional smoking is about

producing smoke in a closed and controlled environment. It’s here where

the burning material gets light and it’s left to smolder. This method is one

of the most versatile as it can use a large array of wood as burning

material, from splinters to sawdust, to which you can add all sorts of

others (or not). Using hardwood is an option as well, and this will

properly enhance the overall flavor of the meat.

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Types of Wood for Smoking

In America, hickory, mesquite, oak, pecan, alder, maple, and fruit-tree

woods, such as apple, cherry, and plum are good to use. Some North

American ham and bacon makers smoke their products over burning

corncobs.

In Europe, alder is the traditional smoking wood, but oak is more often

used now and beech to a lesser extent.

The typical smoky flavor is obtained from the combination of

smoke with meat and spices.

The Smoking Procedure

In southeastern Virginia, most hams are smoked to accelerate drying and to give added flavor. The Smithfield ham is smoked for a long time at a low temperature (lower than 90°F). Wood from hardwood species of trees (trees that shed their leaves in the fall) should be used to produce the smoke. Hickory is the most popular, but apple, plum, peach, oak, maple, beech, ash, or cherry may be used. Do not use pine, cedar, spruce, and other needle-leaf trees for smoking meat, because they give off a resin that has a bitter taste and odor.

The fire should be a “cool,” smoldering type that produces dense smoke. Keep the temperature of the smokehouse below 90°F. Hang hams in a smokehouse so that they don’t touch each other. Hams should be smoked until they become chestnut brown in color, which may take one to three days.

CommonMistakes

TIP: In case you’ve over-smoked the meat, you can let it sit

overnight (whole or sliced) under cold water.

The following are some common mistakes when smoking:

Obtaining insufficient smoke, putting out the fire, or the inability to

get one started will hinder the smoking process.

The quantity of smoke is insufficient and unable to engulf the

whole room.

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Insufficient ventilation of the room. To ensure proper venting, you

should provide a venting slot, which means having a functional

venting window that will provide enough fresh air. The vents

should always stay opened, even during winter.

Using humid burning material. The burning material shouldn’t be

too moist.

The burning material will burn too fast with excess smoke:

The burning material is either too compact or too dry. Its

composure shouldn’t be too compacted for proper burning.

The smoke is too thick. The smoke can be braised by using the air

vent.

The products that get a severely pronounced outer layer have been

over-smoked:

The smoke speed inside the smoker is too high. A high circulation

speed of the gases will dry the meat too fast.

The products have been smoked at too higha temperature or have

been kept in an extremely dry place.

Can smoked products expire or get mildew?

The smoked absorbed throughout the whole process has the

ability to preserve the meat and keep mildew away. Insufficient

smoking, however, won’t get the job done.

The proper storage is possible only with rooms that are below 80%

in air humidity.

Smoking or storing in a room with improper venting can cause

mildew.

Meat products will deteriorate (bacterial infestation and alteration) under

the following conditions:

There isn’t enough room between the products laid out for

smoking, so the smoke can’t come in contact with their whole

surface.

There are improper hygiene conditions in the storage room.

Liquid droppingsare a sign the fat has melted:

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The smoking temperature was too high. The temperature should

be carefully analyzed, especially when smoking bacon or other

fatty foods.

The 2 Main Smoking Methods

Hot Smoking

This method works best for processed meats, sausages, and fish. It

should be done before boiling the meat; this way the smoke will be even

more efficient. Start the fire by using firewood, and hang the meats up

for smoking. There should be enough space between the individual

pieces of meat that they can be engulfed entirely by the smoke; this will

give an overall and uniform flavor, and all the pathogens will be

destroyed in the process.

The wood is extremely important, and you shouldn’t use resin-producing

wood, as it will darken the meat and give an extremely bitter flavor. Use

hardwood instead, and make sure that the wood and sawdust that will

be part of the smoking process have been previously kept in aired

containers; stale wood in airtight containers tends to develop mildew and

rot rather quickly, so it becomes useless.

Mind the smoke at all times! It’s very important to have a vent available

so there won’t be an excessive buildup of smoke. Too much smoke will

spoil the color and the flavor alike. For best results, the sitting period

should be about 2 days per 2.2 pounds of meat.

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Cold Smoking

The cold smoking method is the proper method used for smoking really

fatty meats that would otherwise melt and drip if subjected to the hot

smoking method. The smoking effect is usually obtained through

smoldering sawdust, without flame, so that the smoke is slowly released.

The sawdust is a mixture comprised of one part dry sawdust and three

parts mildly moist sawdust. The sawdust pile should be pressed and

compacted as best as possible, and it shouldn’t exceed 5.5 inches in

height. Get a burning coal, and place it gently under the pile. The

optimum meat distance should be about 5 feet away. Measure the

temperature constantly, and make sure it doesn’t exceed 80°F. If the

temperature tends to rise above this threshold, you can always throw

more sawdust in the mix.

Cold smoking should be 12 hours for sausages and one day for salamis.

For bigger chunks of meat, it should be one to two days/2.2 pounds of

meat, and it should be done alternatively: Day 1: cold smoking; Day 2:

break; Day 3: cold smoking; Day 4: break. Cold smoking requires

patience and careful observation.

Condiments Used for Meat Preservation

Spices with antimicrobial action include garlic, ginger, black pepper,

clove, oregano, thyme, nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, bay leaves,

mustard, rosemary, bishop’s weed, chili pepper (also called cayenne or

red pepper), horseradish, cumin, black cumin, pomegranate seeds,

onion, celery, geranium.

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TIP: For a crisp, gold color, throw a handful of sugar on the fire at

the end of the smoking process.

Curing the Meat:

Dry Curing:

The dry salt curing takes care of the bacteria in the meat. As the

meat sits out, the surface dries out, and this prevents new bacteria

from forming. It’s incredible that the salt can make the meat and fat

stable at room temperature. Think of it just like a meat jerky—but

not quite as hard (although it’s the same concept). We’re simply

using salt and air to moderate bacteria growth.

Bacon will last for months at room temperature (although it will

continue to dry out little by little as time goes on) and should be

inspected daily for signs of rancidity or any insect problems.

Ham is a popular choice for curing, but you can use anything from beef to venison and much more in between. With a good piece of meat, you really can’t go wrong, although the first-time curers might want to go with a more forgiving piece of meat, like pork belly or pork butt.

For the most part, use meats with whole muscle groups in their

anatomical connection. Pork loin and belly, beef hindquarter or brisket,

mutton legs, and even duck breast are popular cuts for drycuring.

TIP:For larger cuts of meat, consider stabbing the meat with a

prong for better salt coverage.

You don’t have to stab the meat before applying the dry rub, but for

certain cuts of meat—larger cuts or cuts like pork belly, which are often

covered with a lining of fat—stabbing the meat allows the salt and nitrite

mix to penetrate deeper into the meat, improving the efficiency and

effectiveness of the cure.

If you want to make your own salt mix, use the ratio below:

TIP: Use a ratio of 2:1,000 sodium nitrite and salt if mixing your own curing salt.

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TIP: Mix your spices along with your curing salt.

If you want to make your own curing salts, be sure to nail the ratio of sodium

nitrite to salt. For every 2 grams of sodium nitrite, for example, use 1,000

grams of salt. Another way to do this is to take the total weight of your

salt, multiply it by .002, and use that much sodium nitrite in your mix.The

cure mix to use, however, depends on personal preference. Salt alone is

acceptable; however, most people prefer the dry sugar cure. For each

100 pounds of fresh meat, use the following:

2 pounds black pepper

1 quart molasses

1 pound brown sugar

1 ounce saltpeter

1 ounce cayenne pepper

Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and divide into two equal parts. Apply the first half on day number one and the second portion on day number seven of the curing period.

Rub the curing mixture into all lean surfaces of the ham. Cover the skin and fat as little will be absorbed through these surfaces. Take care to pack the exposed end of the shank with the curing mixture to prevent bone sour or spoilage. Care should also be taken to make sure plenty of the mixture is applied to the area around the aitchbone.

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Spices add a rich dimension of flavor to your cured meats. While it’s important not to get too carried away and spice the meat to oblivion, a good spice mix will intensify flavors and add distinct profiles to your cures. In a small spice grinder, grind up your spices and add them to the curing salt or salt mixture. Here are some suggestions for spices to use:

Peppercorns Black, green, red, or white are essential in most spice mixes. There’s a reason they call peppercorns the “master spice.”

Sugar

A little Demerara sugar adds a touch of caramel sweetness to your cure.

Coriander and mustard seed

This adds smokiness to the meat.

Star anise

Silky and slightly sweet, a little bit goes a long way. It is slightly nutty.

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Fennel seed

This adds a pleasantly green or grassy dimension to the cure.

Citrus zest

Citrus zest adds a light, pleasantly acidic element that cuts through

fattier pieces of meat.

TIP:When the curing period has passed, place the hams in a

tub of clean, cold water for one hour. This will dissolve most

of the surface curing mix and make the meat receptive to

smoke. After soaking, scrub the ham with a stiff-bristle

brush, and allow it to dry.

After the cure is removed by washing, the cured product should be stored in a 50 to 60°F environment for approximately 14 days to permit the cure adjuncts to be distributed evenly throughout the ham. The product will shrink approximately 8 to 10 percent during cure application and equalization.

In Southwest Virginia, the process is to rub 100 pounds of ham (after cure equalization) with the following thoroughly mixed ingredients:

Age for 45 to 180 Days

The aging period is the time when the characteristic flavor is developed. It may be compared to the aging of cheeses.

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Age hams for 45 to 180 days at 75°F to 95°F with a relative humidity of 55 to 65 percent. Air circulation is needed—particularly during the first seven to 10 days of aging—to dry the ham surface. Approximately 8 to 12 percent of the initial weight will be lost.

Cured meat is a good source of food for pests that infest dry-cured meats. The insects attracted to cured meat are the cheese skipper, larder beetle, and red-legged ham beetle. Mites, which are not insects, may also infest cured meats.

Wet Curing

Curing was a widely used method of preserving meat before the days of

refrigeration. Both salt and sugar (or a mix of both) have been used to

cure meat by means of the process of osmosis. The higher

concentration of salt in external water (brine) actually causes moisture to

evacuate the tissue and additionally draws the water from the food itself.

Salt curing also dehydrates and kills the bacterial organisms in food that

are the primary agents of spoilage. Although normal table salt can be

used with some success, the most common types used are either

partially or wholly sodium nitrite or sodium nitrate.

Brine-Cured Pork

100 lbs. pork 8 lbs. salt (Note: one part salt to 48 parts water) 2 oz. saltpeter 2 lbs. brown sugar 5 gallons water

Method:

Mix salt, brown sugar, and saltpeter.Add this to the water and bring the mixture to a boil. Stir to dissolve sugar. Skim off any residue that may form at the surface while boiling after everything is dissolved. Remove from heat and chill until thoroughly cooled.

Pack the pieces of meat into clean barrels or earthenware crocks, placing them as close together as possible. Now pour the cold brine over

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the meat, making absolutely certain the meat is completely covered (allow room for evaporation, spillage, or expansion). Put a cover over the meat that just fits inside the container, and place weights on it to make sure that the meat is submerged in the brine.

TIP: When curing larger and smaller pieces of meat at the same time, place the larger pieces on the bottom and the smaller ones on top. This is so the smaller ones can be lifted out without disturbing the larger pieces. The small pieces do not take as long to cure as the bigger ones.

If possible, the meat should be cured at a temperature that is just above freezing. If the meat is cured at a warmer temperature, the brine must be watched for signs of souring. If this should happen, remove the meat and soak it in lukewarm water for an hour or so. Wash the meat in fresh cold water, and be sure to throw out the soured brine. Clean out the container, repack the meat, and make fresh brine in the original proportions.

Curing Times in Brine

Bacon sides and loins require two days per pound Shoulders will take two days per pound. Hams will take four days per pound.

After the meat is cured, the pieces should be soaked in warm water and then washed in cold water or even scrubbed with a brush to remove any residue that may have accumulated during the curing process.

Hang the meat by very heavy cords in a cool, dry place, preferably in flour or gunny sacks to discourage airborne contaminants or pests. Allow to drain 24 hours before starting the smoking. Remove the sack before beginning smoking.

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Hard wood is the best to use for smoking. The temperature should be 100°F–120°F. Ventilation should be utilized at first to allow any moisture to escape. Smoke until desired flavor and color is arrived at. A typical time is three days for the largest pieces.

Mixed Brine (Wet and Dry)

The mixed (double) brine includes both methods above (dry brine and

wet brine). This method can be used with success for all pieces of meat

no bigger than 9–10 pounds. The first step is the dry brine, which can

take up to a week. For the second step, you have two options:

Collect all the brine formed naturally during the drying process,

and use it to prepare the brine for the second step of preserving.

Prepare the brine making sure you respect the quantities:

o 8 lbs. salt (Note: one part salt to 48 parts water) o 2 oz. saltpeter o 2 lbs. brown sugar o 5 gallons water

Potted Meat

While I think jerky and smoking are the tastiest ways to preserve meat,

this is another method someone told me about.

Potted meat, or meat potting, began as a way to preserve meat before

the age of refrigeration. When people slaughtered their own animals, the

amount of meat produced was usually much more than could be eaten

before the meat began to rot. People evolved other methods for saving

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this extra meat for later too, such as dry curing and smoking. Potting

meat was another means of storing food, and that old tradition lives on

today in several parts of the United States.

Early potted meat usually involved the meat of one animal only, most

commonly pork. Meat might be either ground or not and then cooked.

The most common method was to use chunks of meat that were well

cooked. The fat from these chunks of meat was saved and poured onto

and around the meat, usually in large jars or in a large crock pot and, the

fat would help keep the meat from decomposing. Some people added

spices to the meat or made sausages from it, so the meat preserved this

way had more flavor. As much meat as possible was pressed into the

jars so that they formed a compressed, relatively soft end product.

This is how we did it. I remember when Dad killed a pig early in the

morning and started cutting it up. He gave the pieces to Mom, who had

the woodstove in the kitchen hot and ready to cook. She started frying

the pork and prepared the 10-gallon crock pot. This pot was about 18

inches in diameter and 24 inches deep. Mother washed it and got it just

as clean as she could get it. As the pork fried, it gave off lots of grease.

She took some of this very hot grease and poured it into the bottom of

the crock, sealing and sterilizing the bottom. Then she put the meat she

had just finished cooking down onto this grease.

As she continued to cook throughout the day, she added the well-fried

meat and covered it with the hot fat that came from the cooking process.

By the evening, the pig was all fried up and in the pot, covered over with

a nice layer of lard that had hardened.

As the days passed by, we dug down into the lard to where the meat

was, pulled out what we needed, and put it in the frying pan. We cooked

it a second time to kill any bacteria that could have possibly gotten into

it. Doing this not only re-sterilized the meat for eating but melted off all

the excess fat. The meat was taken out of the pan, and the fat was

poured back into the pot to seal up the hole we had just made when

getting the meat out.

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Game Meat Preservation

Smoked Deer Jerky

Debone the hind leg, splitting it into individual muscles: topmuscle,

bottom muscle, and tip. Pump with brine* (two pounds commercial salt

cure mixture per gallon of water). Place in crock or USDA-approved

plastic container. Do not use plastic containers such as garbage cans,

plastic bags, or supermarket ice cream buckets. Cover completely with

brine, and weight meat down to keep it submerged. Store in a cool place

(38°F) for 10 days. Every two days, change the position of the meat, and

weight it down again. After 10 days, remove frombrine and smoke five

hours at 150°F. Hang to dry at room temperature (about two weeks). Cut

off to use as needed.

Hot Pickle Cured Jerky

For this kind of jerky, use lean,

fat-free meat. Slice the meat in

¼-inch thick strips, cutting with

the grain. Spread the sliced

meat on a clean surface, and

sprinkle on the mix obtained

from 3 tablespoons of salt, 2

teaspoons of ground black

pepper, and 2 tablespoons of

sugar. Let it sit in the refrigerator for about 24 hours. Make brine of ¾

cup of salt, ½ cup of sugar, 2 tablespoons of ground black pepper, and a

gallon of water. Bring it to a medium boil, and immerse the meat in the

boiling brine for about 2 minutes (until it turns gray). Spread the meat on

your oven tray or dehydrator, and heat up to 120°F–150°F for about 24

hours.

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Dry Meat

Capicola

This is a traditional Italian recipe for dry cured pork shoulder, made only

from the coppa muscle. Before getting started, you’ll need to have the

following ingredients:

coppa muscle, sliced in half-a-pound pieces

60g (6 tablespoons) of kosher salt

60g (2 tablespoons) of sugar

6g (1 teaspoon) of curing agent

4g (1 tablespoon) of coarsely ground black pepper

4g (1 tablespoon) of crushed juniper berries

2g of crumbled bay leaves

1g (½teaspoon) of grated nutmeg (fresh)

3g of fresh thyme

2 cloves of minced garlic

Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl then rub them thoroughly on

the meat so that you cover as much of the surface as possible. You can

then transfer the meat into Ziploc bags and place it in the fridge for about

two weeks. Take it out after the two weeks is done, wash it in cold water,

and let it dry for a couple of hours at room temperature. Once it’s dry,

you can rub some paprika or chili powder on the surface. For the best

results, throw it in a net and hang it in the fridge at about 55°F.

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Bresaola

This is a very savory dish that is pretty easy to make and is worth the

wait. It’s done over a period of a few weeks, so patience is truly a virtue

while making bresaola. This is what you’ll need to have in order to get

the job done:

some string

cheesecloth

Ziploc bags

1–2 pounds of beef muscle

1 cup of red wine

100g of coarse sea salt

100g of sugar

20g of fresh rosemary, chopped (dried works but not as well)

5g of black peppercorns

2.5g Prague powder per 2.2 pounds of meat

Clean up the outer layer of the beef muscle by removing excess sinew

and fat. Weigh the beef once you’re done, and take note of the weight as

it will matter for the final process. The red wine should be poured in a

Ziploc bag and the meat placed in there as well; close the bag tightly,

and throw it in the fridge to marinate overnight. Grind cure ingredients,

and store them in a Ziploc bag for later use.

The following day, separate the cure into two halves. Take the meat out,

and rub it with half of the cure. Once you’re done, place it in a clean

Ziploc bag, and also throw in what’s left of the first half of the cure. Seal

the bag tightly, and put it in the fridge for one week, turning it over daily.

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When the week is done, drain the excess fluid, dry the beef, and repeat

the procedure with the second half of the cure for another week.

Once the second week is up, take the meat out, dry it well, tie it with the

string, cover it with cheesecloth, and tie it again. Let it sit and dry at

room temperature; the ideal temperature is about 60°F. Weigh it daily,

and when the meat has lost 30% of its weight, it’s done.

Pancetta (Homemade Bacon)

Pancetta is yet another Italian delicacy that’s based on dry-curing and is

easy and fun to do. All you need is some basic pork belly (pancetta =

belly) and a few other ingredients that can be found in any respectable

household:

450g of kosher salt

225g of sugar (about a cup)

50g of pink salt (about 3 tablespoons)

a few cloves of garlic

some peppercorn

Mix the dry cure ingredients together until the pink salt is evenly

distributed. You can deposit them in airtight containers indefinitely.

Throw the belly in a big enough Ziploc bag, and add the garlic,

peppercorns, and ¼ cup of sugar. Rub the ingredients on the pork belly,

seal tightly, and throw it in the fridge, turning the meat over daily.

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After the week is up (or 9 days for extra fatty meats), take it out and

rinse it with cold water. Cut a hole in the corner, and hang it out to dry at

room temperature.

Prosciutto

Prosciutto is undoubtedly one of the tastiest dry meats you can ever get

your hands on. And making your own would definitely be an amazing

skill to have. These are the required ingredients:

about 12 pounds of pork leg (freshly cut, bones removed and

blood drained)

5 garlic cloves

half-a-pound of peppercorns

7–10 pounds of salt

vinegar

a couple of weights (bricks will do)

a wooden box with a lid

First and foremost, peel the garlic cloves and grind them with the

peppercorns; make sure the resulting paste is enough to cover the entire

piece of meat. Dry the leg with paper towels, and spread the pate on the

surface. Next, apply salt, as much as possible, until a crust is formed.

Take the wooden box and fill it with half an inch of salt. Place the pork

inside, and pour another inch of salt on top; the salt will kill off any

bacteria able to spoil the meat. Place the weights on the lid, and store in

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a cool and dry storage space or in the freezer for about a month; turn

once every two to three days.

After a month is up, remove the meat, and remove the excess salt (out

of the box and off the ham by shaking, not washing). Place the ham

back in the box, put the lid on, and let it sit for four to six more days at

room temperature.

After six days’ time, take out the meat and rinse it with a solution

comprised of 50% water and 50% vinegar in order to remove the excess

salt. Wrap it in cheesecloth, and hang it out to dry for six months or even

up to three years.

Jerky

Beef jerky is an all-American product, and it’s easy to make. From my

experience, the best meat for making jerky is flank steak. First, clean the

meat and make sure it’s fresh before you start doing anything else. If

all’s well, start removing excess fat and silver skin from the surface of

the meat. If the fat’s gone, you can start trimming the steak now. Slices

should be at least ¼ inch thick, but the thinner you can make them, the

better.

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The meat fibers have directionality; this is called the meat grain, and this

is the way you should slice the meat—with the grain. If the slices are

done, cover the meat with either dry mixes or a marinade of your

choosing. We can extend the shelflife of our homemade jerky with the

judicious use of spices.

Salt and pepper, either black or red, are key ingredients. The other

spices that I prefer include garlic, ginger, and turmeric. I also like spice

blends like curry powder, chili powder and five-spice powder.

Here’s one of my favorite “jerky toppings” for those of you out there with

a real sweet tooth:

the already sliced meat

2 tablespoons of granulated garlic

2 tablespoons of kosher salt

2 tablespoons of black pepper (cracked)

½ cup of honey

Add the honey to a warm sauce pan in order to thin it out. Once the

honey starts flowing in the pan, add the other ingredients and stir

together for a couple of minutes. Let them cool for a few minutes more,

at room temperature, and add them to the meat. Refrigerate the

marinated meat for 24 hours; take the meat out and drain it of the

excess liquid. Add it to the dehydrator for about six hours or in the oven.

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Pemmican

Native Americans invented pemmican due to the necessity of preserving

large amounts of buffalo meat. Since the buffalo is such a large animal,

it is necessary to store the meat in a way that it will not get spoiled. They

used to dry meat and make jerky on wood racks. Buffalo jerky became a

favorite way of transporting the meat or keeping it so it would not spoil.

Lacking refrigerators or other means of storage, Native Americans

made buffalo jerky by cutting the meat into strips, stringing it up, and

drying in the sun, as we do nowadays with laundry. Jerky made this way

is not like our modern jerky. Traditional jerky tends to be more like a

chip, more brittle and not chewy like the store-bought jerky. Unlike the

Europeans, the Native Americans did not use salt to preserve meat but

instead relied on the sun to dry the meat. The process for making buffalo

jerky is quite simple, and there are places that offer this traditional

delicacy today.“Jerky” comes from the Spanish word “Charqui.” It is a

tough form of the meat, but many find that its flavor is quite concentrated

and stronger than that of regular meat, just as dried fruit is often sweeter

than fresh. Today, many people smoke their buffalo jerky for extra

flavors, and it is possible to find many varieties of buffalo jerky that vary

in taste according to the kind of wood that was used to soak it or the

type of marinade used.

A method of making buffalo jerky that was popular among Native

Americans, which is not used often today, is the pemmican method

(from the Cree word “pimii,” or fat). In spite of buffalo meat’s reputation

for being lower in fat and calories than beef, this form of buffalo jerky is

quite high in fat but is also tasty. Pieces of buffalo jerky are placed in

hides of bison skin, and marrow fat is poured in.

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Pemmican is a mix of powdered jerky with rendered fat and berries. This

type of food is highly nutritious and therefore ideal as a long-term food.

Pemmican is so effective that it was used extensively on Arctic

expeditions as the primary survival food, and it is still used today. If

made the right way, the pemmican can last for a few decades. The

following is the traditional way to make pemmican.

Given there were no pots available to cook the buffalo, other methods

were developed by the Native American tribes.

The buffalo hide was removed from the carcass and placed in a

bowl-shaped hole dug in the ground as a liner.

Then they added water in the “buffalo kooker” and added the

pieces of meat.

Large quantities of stones were heated in a nearby fire and then

added into the water in order to boil the meat. One of the tribes

that cooked the meat this way was named Assiniboine, which in

translation means “the stone boilers.”

After the meat was boiled, it was first dried on wooden racks then

heated over a low fire then beaten with stones or sticks into

shreds.

The next step was to melt the buffalo tallow. The shredded meat

was stirred into the hot tallow to obtain the pemmican. The amount

of meat had to be equal to the amount of tallow. Dried fruit and

berries were added, and then the whole mixture was packed tightly

into a bag made out of buffalo skin and left to cool and harden.

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Biltong

Biltong is a great survival food that has his origins in Southern Africa. Biltong is a variety of dried and cured meats. You can use different types of meat to produce biltong, such as beef, game meats, chicken, fish, or even ostrich. First you have to cut out the fillets of meat. The fillets must be cut into strips or flat pieces following the grain of the muscle. Biltong is similar to beef jerky in that both are cured-dried meats. The difference between biltong and beef jerky is that biltong is sliced after the drying process, not before like the beef jerky.

Ingredients for biltong:

Meat

Black pepper

Coriander

Salt

Sugar or brown sugar

Vinegar

The modern-day recipe may include:

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Balsamic vinegar or malt vinegar

Bicarbonate of soda

Dry ground chili peppers

Onion powder

The best way to prepare biltong is by marinating the meat in a vinegar solution (balsamic or cider vinegar work very well too) for a few hours. After soaking, the meat must be drained of excess liquid. Meanwhile, prepare the spice mixture that consists of equal amounts of the following:

Whole, slightly roasted, and roughly ground coriander

Black pepper

Rock salt

Barbecue spice

Mix all the ingredients then ground roughly together. Sprinkle the mix all over themeat fillets, and rub well to obtain an evenly distributed layer.

After this process, the meat must rest for a few hours or refrigerate overnight in order to absorb the flavors.

The next step is to pour off any excess of liquid before the drying process. The drying process can be achieved in three ways:

1. You can dry out the meat in cold air.

2. Dry it on cardboard or in a wooden box

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3. Dry it in a climate-controlled, dry room.

In colder climates, biltong can be dried with the help of an electric lamp, but care must be taken to ventilate as mold can form on the meat and spoil it. A traditional slow dry will take four to six days, but you can dry the biltong in an electric fan-assisted oven too. Set the oven to 100–160°F, and leave the door open in order to eliminate the moist air. You’ll have the same result as the traditional drying after four to five hours. The point is to eliminate as much moisture as possible. A longer drying process will prolong the shelf life from two years to three to four. Biltong can be eaten as a snack, added to stews for a great taste, put in sandwiches, or used to make biltong-flavored potato chips.

Sausages

Sausages might seem really complicated, but I assure you, they’re not.

Sausage making is simple, although it might seem tricky to the untrained

eye. Sausages stay nice and in their shape because they’re incased in

“casings.” The casing keeps the composure, and there are two types

you can get your hands on:

1 – Collagen casings made out of reconstituted meat products

2 – Bio-casings, which are all natural and made out of cleaned animal

intestines (mostly sheep or pig); these are the better ones

Once you have the ingredients and tools you’ll need for sausage-

making, this is one of the best sausage recipes you will ever come

across:

Sheep or pig casings

3 pounds of ground pork plus 2 pounds of ground bacon

5 teaspoons of salt

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1½ teaspoons of black pepper

2 tablespoons of chopped red pepper (roasted, not fresh)

1½ teaspoons of savory

1½ teaspoons of marjoram

4 cloves of garlic (minced)

1 cup of cold water

Mincer

There’s no real technique or refinement in sausage making. Just throw

all the ingredients together in a bowl and mix them well. Once the meat

and spices paste seems homogenized enough, you’ll need to process

the sausages even further. Take the meat, and add it to the mincer.

There are a few electrical ones, but most of them are manual. It’s going

to take a bit of physical effort on your part, so take that into

consideration. Place the casing on the “receiving end” of the mincer, and

start grinding. Sausage making is best done with a partner; as one

grinds, another can supervise the meat going into the casing. Sausages

can be kept in the fridge or hanged out to dry in a cool and dark enough

place.

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Hams

Curing hams used to be the best way to preserve pork before there

was reliable refrigeration. Curing and smoking pulls the moisture from

the ham to make it safe to store at room temperature. We don’t cure for

this purpose anymore but rather to give the ham a great flavor and color.

Now think of a grid down scenario where the electricity will no longer be

available and you’ll have to preserve everything the old-fashioned way.

Not having the skills and the knowledge to do this, you will not be able to

preserve food for longer periods of time.

Homemade curing mix:

This dry rub mix recipe has been in my family and handed down for

generations.

Curing salt

Red pepper

Black pepper

Brown sugar

For every 2 cups of curing salt, add the following:

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1 cup brown sugar

1 tablespoon red pepper

1 tablespoon black pepper

Method:For one ham, start with six to eight cups of mix.

To start your dry cure of ham, you need to start by selecting a good

ham. Pick up a fresh, high-quality ham that has come from a young

hog.For dry curing, you need a long, thick cushion of ham, preferably a

deep, wide butt face, which has the least amount of external fat.Before

you begin with the curing procedure, make sure that the ham has been

kept properly chilled, preferably at a temperature below 40°F.

While most of those who cure ham at home only use salt, you can

always experiment with a few more ingredients and decide what works

best for you. Ideally, for 100 pounds of fresh ham, you would need eight

pounds of salt, two pounds of sugar, and two ounces of saltpeter. Mix all

these ingredients well, and divide them into two equal batches. You will

be using the first batch on the first day of the curing, and the second

batch will be used the next day.Take a fresh ham with skin on, wash it

off in water, and pat dry.

Put a layer of curing mix on the tray to act as a bed for the ham. This

bed of curing mix should be ¼” – ½” deep.

Place the ham on top of the layer of mix.

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The curing mixture should be rubbed thoroughly into the surface of the

meat, especially on the lean surfaces, because the skin and fat surface

will allow the least absorption of the salt mixture. Therefore, whatever

you will be able to push through the lean surface will be what works as a

cure for the meat.

TIP: After applying the first batch of the curing mixture, keep the

ham on a wooden shelf or in a wooden bin, but take care not to use

a fragrant wood like pine because ham, or any meat, has a

tendency to absorb flavors from its surroundings.

At each joint, cut slits down to the bone. These slits are needed because

you have to pack extra salt around the joint so the fluid will draw

out. Otherwise, you could spoil the ham. There are two joints: the

H-bone(hip) and the hock.

Pack the slits you made at the joints with the curing mix; then rub and

cover the rest of the ham with the curing mix.

After 18 days check the ham.As far as ham is concerned, you need to

cure it on the basis of seven days per inch of cushion depth or one and a

half days per pound. You need to keep accurate records of this

proportion so that you do not over or under-cure the ham.Once you are

satisfied that your ham is thoroughly cured, remove the curing mixture

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by simple washing. You may use a hard brush to remove any traces of

the cure from within the crevices on the meat surface. Allow the meat to

dry before storing it in an environment of 50 to 60°F for about a fortnight.

TIP:If you are going to put this ham in the smoker, it has to be firm

to the touch. If not firm to the touch, it is not ready to come out of

the curing mix. If it is not firm, it is because there is still too much

fluid left in the ham.

If the ham is ready to be smoked, thoroughly rinse off the salt and pat

dry before smoking.

In Southeastern Virginia, most hams are smoked to accelerate drying

and to give added flavor. The best way to obtain a ham that can last for

a long period of time is to smoke it for a long time at a low temperature

(lower than 90°F). Wood from hardwood species of trees (trees that

shed their leaves in the fall) should be used to produce the smoke.

Hickory is the most popular, but apple, plum, peach, oak, maple, beech,

ash, mesquite, oak, pecan, alder, or cherry may be used.

Some North American ham and bacon makers smoke their products

over burning corncobs. In Europe, alder is the traditional smoking wood,

but oak is more often used now and beech to a lesser extent.

TIP: Do not use pine, cedar, spruce, and other needle-leaf trees for smoking meat, because they give off a resin that has a bitter taste and odor.

The fire should be a “cool,” smoldering type that produces dense smoke. Keep the temperature of the smokehouse below 90° F. Hang hams in a smokehouse so that they don’t touch each other. Hams should be smoked until they become chestnut brown in color, which may take one to three days.

Smoked Fish

Any of fish can be subjected to smoking and drying—any type of

EDIBLE fish that is. The first thing to do is to wash the fish thoroughly

and chop off any bits and pieces that should be removed. The fish

should be gutted and the head removed; some people do not remove

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the head, and that’s okay too. After removing the innards, wash the

interior of excess blood. Get a bowl filled with cold water and salt, and let

the fish sit for about 30 minutes. Repeat the process every 30 minutes

until there’s no more redness in the water; this is an indicator that the

fish has been bled out completely.

TIP: Never use hot or warm water, as this will soften the fish.

Take the fish out, and pat it dry with paper towels. Gently sprinkle it with

unrefined salt, and place it in the fridge for a whole day. The salt will dry

and dehydrate the fish, which will prevent bacterial buildup. After the 24

hours are up, take out the fish and wash it with COLD water only. Tie a

string to every fish tail, and hang them out to dry in a cool and dry spot

for another 24 hours before smoking.

Fish can be smoked in the following ways:

Cold smoking – small sessions (2–3 hours) for 6–7 days

Hot smoking – for 6 hours

Combined – 5 days of cold smoking and 2 hours of hot smoking in

day 6

The best wood for the job is beech, be it hardwood or sawdust, but you

could also use cherry wood, plum, or apricot wood as well. Throw a

handful of spices of your choosing (laurel, thyme, coriander, rosemary,

green tea, olive branches, etc.) in the fire as this will enhance the flavor

and give a specific color.

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Smoked Oysters

The oysters are the main ingredient, and you shouldn’t settle for

anything less than the best. What works best in this case are six- to

seven-inch long oysters (shell-wise), which would translate in about 3.5

inches of the long meaty part. These are medium-sized oysters and are

the easiest to find. Once you have the oysters, you’ll need to take them

out of the shells and keep them in fridge as they tend to spoil rather

quickly once out of the shell.

Once the oysters are settled, start making the brine. This is a really great

brine recipe that gives an intense and unique flavor. These are the

required ingredients:

¾ cup of salt (non-iodized)

1/5 cup of brown sugar

½ cup of soy sauce

3 bay leaves

1 tablespoon of garlic powder

1 cup of brandy

a pinch of pepper

hot sauce

1 tablespoon of onion powder

1½ gallons of water

a stainless steel grill rack

This amount should provide enough brine for about 50 oysters. Throw all

the ingredients in a large container (non-metallic), and stir until all the

crystals dissolve. Once this happens, throw in the oysters, and stir gently

to make sure they don’t stick to each other. Take the whole concoction,

and place it in the fridge for about 40 hours.

After the 40 hours is up, take the oysters out of the fridge and rinse them

in cold water, one by one, in order to remove the excess brine. Get the

stainless steel grill rack, and oil it up. Place the oils on the metal. You

can use a pro smoker or hang them out over a fire in a smoking room.

The oysters will shrink as much as 50% during the smoking process, so

don’t panic when you see the end result. The basic temperature for

oyster smoking is about 130°F–150°F. Depending on your smoker, the

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oyster should be done anytime between 20 minutes and 1 hour. Cold

smoking techniques will take longer two to three hours.

Smoked Chicken

Smoking chicken is just as easy as it is delicious. Chicken meat is very

lean and is very susceptible to the smoking process. Smoked chicken is

a household favorite worldwide, and it can be achieved in many ways.

This is probably the easiest way to do it:

1 whole chicken (3–5 pounds)

1 yellow onion (medium-sized)

4–5 thyme sprigs

1 lemon

3 garliccloves

1 tablespoon of crushed garlic

1 tablespoon of salt

1 tablespoon of pepper

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1 tablespoon of onion powder

1 cup of kosher salt

1 cup of brown sugar

1 gallon of water

Fill a container (non-metallic) with one gallon of water. Throw in

thekosher salt and brown sugar, and stir gently until they dissolve. Once

the crystals have dissolved, place the chicken in, and let it sit in the

fridge overnight. Smoking chicken is easiest done by grilling, so if you

have one, just set it on smoke with the lid open until the fire has started.

Preset the temperature to 225°F and start the preheat sequence (close

the lid for about 12–15 minutes).

While the grill is preheating, take the chicken out of the brine, and pat it

dry with paper towels. Once the excess liquid has been removed, rub it

with onion powder, salt, pepper, and garlic. Stuff the cavity with thyme,

lemon, onion, and garlic, and tie the legs together. Place it on the grill for

about three hours. When the internal temperature of the chicken reaches

150°F, it’s done.

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***

All these methods and techniques shown are practical and can be done

by anyone. If you don’t succeed at first, try and try again! They may

require a bit of practice before you’ll get them right. But if not-so-modern

man could do them, so can we. Mastering the ways of preserving meat

gets you one step closer to absolute self-sufficiency and self-reliance.

Knowledge translates into power; so the more you know, the more

powerful you are.

***

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HOW TO NEVER GO WITHOUT

MILK, CHEESE, OR BUTTER

Winter storage techniques for dairy products

INTRODUCTION

Just like eggs, milk and milk-based products also have a tendency to go

bad and spoil rather quickly. They’re not the friendliest food groups as

far as long time storage is concerned, because of the many active

proteins they have in their composition. It’s these proteins that confer

milk-based products their nutritional value, and believe it or not, there

are ways that you can put these types of products aside in your pantry

even for long-term storage.

Whether you’re keen on storing milk, all sorts of cheeses, or butter

matters very little. If you’re the type of serious prepper that aspires to

obtain the best results, just follow the easy tips and tricks that you’re

about to read, and you’ll have a winter pantry full of milk-based foods in

no time. Just be patient, and don’t skip over any of the steps; doing

everything by the book will be worth the effort.

Every single storage method contained in this list is practical and

efficient yet inexpensive and easy to do. Dairy storage investments are

negligible, and the dairy storage techniques and tricks are strict but fairly

easy. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to store milk, cheese, or butter for

the winter, because any average Joe can do it. It takes only a bit of

dedication and hard work.

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FROZEN MILK

This is the fastest and best known method as far as milk storage is

concerned. Any type of milk will do well in freezing conditions because

the protein deterioration rate will slow down. Freezing the milk is a really

uncomplicated and cheap method. All you need is a fridge, some airtight

containers, and quality milk (milk that doesn’t show signs of spoilage).

There’s really no way of giving a precise shelf-life in this case, as it

depends a lot on the type of milk that you’ll be placing in cold storage, its

quality, and, of course, how well your fridge is running. Any sort of milk

will do well in freezing conditions, be it cow milk, sheep, goat, and even

human breast milk (should there ever be a need for it).

It does not matter if the milk is “home-made” or carton milk that you

bought from the supermarket. It can be pasteurized or non-pasteurized,

but in general, fresh milk tends to do just a little bit better in cold storage.

Farm fresh milk should be cooled immediately to prolong its storage

term as much as possible. If the milk is too warm, the cooling rate will be

too high to ensure the optimal storage results. Cool the milk as quickly

as possible, and there will be no problems.

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The containersthat are used are a really important variable. Milk can be

stored in pretty much anything (as long as it’s not made from toxic

materials or metal): glass jars, eco-friendly plastic containers, Ziploc

bags, or cartons. It’s not so much about the stuff the container is made

out of but rather about the size. In smaller containers, the milk tends to

freeze faster, which helps maintain milk quality and also allows it to thaw

faster in the refrigerator when you need it later. No matter what you’ll be

using as a container, make sure it’s airtight as this will reduce spoilage

and odor absorption to a minimum.

Once again, shelf-life depends on too many variables to give an exact

number; just smell and taste the milk before consumption. If anything

seems off, throw it away. Color is also a good indicator, and a see-

through container will help a lot. If not, just pour some milk in a clean

glass, and inspect it carefully. Be very wary of the milk’s state as spoiled

milk may seriously harm one’s health.

DEHYDRATED MILK

Homemade dehydrated milk is a great alternative for everybody that just

isn’t happy with commercial powdered milk. If you have too much milk

on your hands and a dehydrator, you can take prepping a step further

and make your own dehydrated milk. Any regular food dehydrator with

fruit trays (the rolled-up kind) will do. The margins are raised to keep the

milk from spilling. Just pour about one cup of milk in each tray, and

you’re good to go.

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Skimmed works better as it will spread evenly, but if you don’t mind tiny

“bumps” here and there, use whatever it is you have. Once the trays are

filled with milk, start “cooking” at about 125°F to 130°F; the process

should take anywhere between 10 and 12 hours, so arm yourself with

patience. If the surface on which the dehydrator is placed isn’t perfectly

level, the milk won’t “cook” perfectly. Uneven distribution will give the

milk a weird look; it’s no problem really, but if you care about aesthetics,

you can try turning the trays around every 25 to 30 minutes to improve

the aspect and the overall heat distribution a little.

The solid milk bits tend to be uneven, so simply take a food scraper and

scrap it gently on the surface of the dehydrator tray. Once all the parts

have come off, redistribute them evenly on the tray, and place them

back in the dehydrator.

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Once the milk becomes flaky, you can crumble it by hand as thin as you

can, but don’t put too much time and effort into it. Make them small

enough to be blended. Blend everything as fine as possible, and there

you have it: instant powdered milk (home edition). Place the powdered

milk into an airtight container, and let it sit in a proper pantry or storage

facility that is cool, dark, and germ free. You can keep it in Ziploc bags or

airtight plastic containers too, but any glass jar that you might have

around the house will work best (as long as it has an airtight lid). Just

wash the jar thoroughly first.

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To reconstitute dehydrated milk, just add warm water to the mix; 1.5

tablespoons of dry milk to a quarter cup of water is the perfect ratio.

DEHYDRATED YOGURT

Yogurt in general (homemade or purchased) will keep in the fridge well,

but the shelf-life limit can’t be exceeded, not even by a single day. There

is a more efficient way of storing yogurt, one that will make it stay “fresh”

over the whole winter or even longer. Just like with milk, the key is to

forcefully remove all of the excess water from its structure, which attracts

all sorts of bacteria that will produce fermentation and cause spoilage.

Just like before, you’ll need to have a personal dehydrator device. Start

out by spreading the yogurt as thin as you possibly can (or want to) on

the dehydrator tray. If you don’t have a regular tray and just the grill, you

can use parchment paper instead.

Once everything is set in place, you can close the dehydrator properly

and raise the heat to about 130°F. Let the heat work its magic for about

five to six hours. Because yogurt is already fermented milk (partially), it

will take half the time regular milk needs to dehydrate properly. The

dehydration process depends on the thickness of the yogurt and on the

various components it may contain, so check on the yogurt every two to

three hours to make sure you’re not overdoing things.

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Once it’s done, you can pass it through the blender and throw it in an

airtight container. Then place it in a proper storage area. Fruit yogurts

will maintain flavor, making for an excellent snack.

HOMEMADE YOGURT

Storing milk is one thing, but storing yogurt is a whole different ball

game. Large quantities of milk aren’t much of a strain on the old wallet,

but purchasing large quantities of yogurt just for the sake of storing it

may be a bit tricky, especially if you’re considering the fruit-flavored

ones. For those of you who just aren’t comfortable with throwing that

much money out the window, there’s always the alternative of making

your own in-house yogurt. It’s not exactly easy, but it will be far more

cost efficient than just buying it from your local dairy dealer.

For the best DIY yogurt imaginable, you’ll need the following:

milk (skimmed or whole)

2 tablespoons of yogurt per quart of milk (The little bit of yogurt will

provide the necessary enzymes that will trigger the fermentation

process.)

glass jars

a pot (large enough to hold the glass jars)

a kitchen thermometer

a timer

a clean towel

a picnic cooler

First and foremost, you’ll need to sterilize the jars and the lids before

using them. Run them through the dishwasher, or wash them by hand

with soapy water. Do the same for the picnic cooler. Impurities and

bacteria are a great risk, so don’t take any chances. Once you’ve

washed everything, dry them out well before starting the yogurt-making

process.

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Pour milk into the jars, stopping about an inch from the top; the jars don’t

have to be filled to the brim. Take a washcloth and place it on the bottom

of the pot; this will make for a soft bed and prevent the jars from cracking

once they start shaking from boiling. Place the jars in the pot, and fill the

pot with tap water.

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Put the thermometer and a spoon that you’ll use for stirring on the edge

of the pot. Turn the heat on high, and when the water starts boiling, it will

sterilize both the spoon and the thermometer alike. Once the

thermometer is sterilized, place it in one of the jars and turn the heat to

medium-low, just so you keep the water boiling nice and steady. When

the milk reaches 185°F, you can turn the heat off and put the lids on the

jars.

Next, take the jars out and let them cool to room temperature. You

should also leave the starter yogurt at room temperature for a bit so that

it’s not too cold when you add it to the mix. If you’re in a hurry, you can

also use the alternative of placing the jars in a container filled with ice; it

will reduce the temperature to optimal in about 30 minutes.

If you’re in no hurry and want to do things by the book, put the lid on the

pot of boiling water, and arrange the towel in the cooler so you don’t melt

the cooler; next, close the lid (towel and all).

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The incubation of the fermenting bacteria (the good kind, which you

need) happens at about 110°F. Once the milk reaches the optimum

temperature, take of the lids of the jars and gently stir in 2 tablespoons

of yogurt (which carries the fermenting enzymes) per each quart of milk.

Be very precise about the starter yogurt quality as too much or too little

will ruin the product.

Put the lids back on, and place the jars in a pot in the cooler, next to the

hot pot. Wrap them half-way in the towel, and take the lid off the pot so

that there’s a way for the heat to escape. The lid of the cooler should be

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closed. The whole contraption should be as still as possible as

movement will affect the quality of the yogurt.

Let everything sit for six to 24 hours. Any sooner and you’d just be

having plain milk with a spoon of yogurt in it; any later and the

fermenting bacteria will have consumed all the lactose. Just pick a time

anywhere in between six and 24 hours; just know that the shorter

amount of time it stays in, the sweeter the yogurt is going to be. Leave it

in more for a stronger taste. Once the preset time is up, take out the jars

and place them in the fridge for about 40–60 minutes; this will improve

the texture of the finite product.

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REFRIGERATED CHEESE

Cheese is less pretentious when it comes to winter storage methods

than milk or yogurt. It keeps well, and even if it develops mold all over

the surface, you can just slice it off. But this will deteriorate the overall

quality of the cheese little by little. For winter, a good method of storing

cheese in the fridge is all wrapped up. The wrapping material is key

here; plastic will ruin everything, so it’s not an option. Cheese has high

amounts of fats and oils, which makes it react badly to prolonged contact

with plastic. Plastic not only reduces the natural flavor of the cheese but

will also spoil it all together.

Go for cheese bags or cheese paper instead. The material “lives” in

perfect symbiotic conditions with the piece of cheese it engulfs. It’s

porous enough so that it gives the cheese room to breathe.

If you’re not convinced, however, you can always go for regular

parchment or wax paper as well. Just put your hunk of cheese in a not-

so-tight parchment or wax paper, and place it in a partially sealed plastic

bag. Plastic is not detrimental as long as it doesn’t come in direct contact

with the cheese.

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If you’re not completely sold on the plastic bit, however, just use

aluminum foil instead; it will work just as well, but it will be a bit more

expensive.

Fattier cheeses tend to “sweat” a lot, releasing excess fats. No matter

what wrapping material you’re using in this case, change it periodically.

Greased up wrappers won’t perform as well as far as breathing is

concerned. (Remember, fridge-stored cheese needs regular airflow.)

Don’t let the wrapping material get too greasy either; just replace it every

time you unwrap the cheese.

Softer cheese, like mozzarella, will spoil a lot faster than hard ones, so

always be on the lookout if your fridge is packed with soft cheeses.

Ideally, cheese should be kept in the fridge at a steady temperature of

35°F to 45°F; keeping it near the freezer will degrade the texture of the

cheese, so keep it in the vegetable drawer instead.

If you want to go as far back as the roots of cheese preservation go, you

can replace the wrappers with oils. Just rub the cut faces of the cheese

with a thin coat of olive oil; canola or any other vegetable oils will do, but

not as well. If mold takes hold, it will be on the oil and not on the surface

of the cheese. This way you can wipe the oil off and rinse the cheese

under running water. When cheese goes bad, it will reflect in texture,

color, or taste.

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DEHYDRATED HARD CHEESE

Because cheeses vary a lot in fat consistency and other things, there are

different approaches when it comes to home dehydration. Yes, cheese

can be dehydrated, and the process will prolong shelf life. Hard cheeses

will perform fairly well during the dehydration process, and they will keep

even better in proper storage facilities. This is what you’ll need for

dehydrated hard cheese:

hard cheese (any sort will do, but the less fat and moisture a

cheese contains, the faster the dehydration process will be)

a food processor or a cheese grater

high-quality paper towels (any non-stick sheet available on the

market will do just fine)

a food dehydrator

Get the dehydrator ready to work its magic. Line all the dehydrator’s

trays (or as many as you need for the quantity of cheese you want to

dry) with paper towels. Grate the cheese, or shred it in the food

processor (not necessarily thin), and spread it evenly on the surface of

the paper towels that are covering the trays. Make the cheese layer as

thin as possible.

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Set the dehydrator to about 135°F, and check on the cheese every few

minutes. When the temperature rises, the cheese will start to “sweat,”

releasing fats. Depending on the type of paper sheets you’re using,

you’ll have to check on the cheese every five to ten minutes and either

change the towels (if they’re absorbent) or remove the cheese

temporarily and dry off the excess fat from the towels (if they’re extra

shiny).

Always stay nearby. Cheese consistency varies a lot from one type to

the next, so check on it regularly, not only for “sweat” but also to make

sure the cheese won’t melt. The goal is to remove excess water and

fats, not to turn everything into goo. Airflow is just as important as the

heat is in this case. Melting will happen every here and there, so just

keep it to a minimum.

After a processing time of 10 hours (more or less), the cheese should be

dry and brittle enough to simply snap in half. However, if your goal is to

turn it into the thinnest possible powder you possibly can, you can run it

through a fine food processor or, even better, a grain mill.

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Whether you’ll be keeping the cheese as brittle small pieces or fine

powder (or both) doesn’t matter. Just place it in airtight containers

(Ziploc bags, glass jars, or plastic containers), and store it in a proper

pantry that’s cool and dry.

DEHYDRATED SOFT CHEESE

Soft cheese (like mozzarella) requires a whole different approach from

the get-go. Instead of covering the dehydrator trays with cheese paper

or cheese cloth, use plastic wrap. Punch a hole in the center of the

plastic sheet after doing so; otherwise, air flow will be restricted.

Once the plastic wrap is nice and firm on the trays, spread the cheese all

over its surface in a thin layer. Do it as thin or as thick as you want but

no thicker than a quarter of an inch. Place all the cheese-filled trays in

the dehydrator, adjust it to the lowest setting, and turn it on.

If the dehydrator doesn’t have a proper ventilation system, you’ll need to

rearrange the trays by hand every two or three hours to avoid extreme

dryness on the bottom trays. To even things out, circulate the trays as

follows: Replace the bottom tray with the top tray, but before changing

the two, move all the other trays up one spot.

When the cheese feels dry to the touch, it’s ready. You can gently break

it by hand if you want to. Take it out and place it in airtight containers,

like Ziploc bags or glass jars. It’s best kept in a cool, dark, and dry

storage area.

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BUTTER

Storing butter is really tricky as butter requires a cold and dark place

constantly. A fridge is the best option you have. And if you have your

heart set on keeping butter in storage during a SHTF situation, it’s best

to have a generator and fuel at your disposal.

Salted and unsalted butter will keep really well in their original wrappers.

The first thing to consider is to always place the stick of butter in the

fridge only if the butter is wrapped perfectly. No surface (no matter how

small) must remain unwrapped, because the fatty and oily components

will assimilate foreign smells almost instantly, therefore spoiling its taste.

Always keep the butter in the designated butter compartment in the

fridge, away from fruit, vegetables, or home-cooked food; all of these

give out very powerful odors.

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You can take salted butter a step further as far as fridge storage goes,

and you can freeze it if you like. In this case, you’ll need to cut the butter

up into three or four equal pieces, if it isn’t already in sticks, and wrap

them individually in tinfoil (perfectly). Place it in a freezer-proof container

or airtight sealable bags, and let them sit in the freezer; frozen butter will

last 8–10 months.

TIPS AND TRICKS FOR BUTTER STORAGE:

The butter compartment in the fridge is always designated on the

fridge door. The door opens a lot, exposing the butter to

temperature variations; this takes a toll on the butter, so placing it

on an inner shelf in the fridge would be even better.

Butter specialists and product companies seem to agree on the

fact that unsalted butter is best used within three months.

The expiration date on the package should always be taken

seriously; there are plenty of tests and biochemical data analysis

as far as food safety is concerned.

Spoiled butter can be identified by the following signs: pale color,

bad odor, too soft or hard to the touch, or covered in mold.

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FINAL THOUGHTS

There are plenty of methods and means to storing dairy products, and

they all work just fine. But the indications should be respected and

followed to a tee. All of these storage processes are comprised of

chemical reactions, which, if performed incorrectly, might endanger your

health. Do everything by the book, and not only will you have the best

storage pantry imaginable but you’ll also have a clean bill of health.

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DELICIOUS MUSHROOM

RECIPES

A practical guide to making the best edible mushrooms

INTRODUCTION

HEALTH BENEFITS OF MUSHROOMS

The health benefits of mushrooms include lowering the chances of high

cholesterol levels, breast cancer, prostate cancer, and diabetes. It also

helps in weight loss and increases the strength of your immune system.

Almost all of us are familiar with mushrooms and their almost

miraculous, beneficial powers,particularly those who have read or heard

a lot of fairytales, such as Alice in Wonderland or Goldilocks and the

Three Bears, or even those who have played the Super Mario Brothers

video game.

You have probably seen mushrooms making someone bigger or acting

as a shield against some dangerous monster. These aren’t just popular

culture references; they are actually symbolic representations of the

actual health benefits of mushrooms. They truly can make you bigger

and protect you against diseases and infections as they are full of

proteins, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, antibiotics, and antioxidants.

Mushrooms are edible fungi with various scientific names, but the family

name is Agaricus; then there are many secondary names for different

species. They are essentially Saprophytes, the organisms (plants

without chlorophyll) that thrive by extracting nutrients from dead and

decaying plant and animal matter. They vary greatly in their color,

texture, shape, and properties.

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There are approximately 140,000 species of mushroom-forming fungi in

the world, but science is only familiar with about 10%, and only 100

species or so are being studied for their potential health benefits and

medicinal applications. Some of the most well-known benefits of

mushrooms are explained below.

CHOLESTEROL LEVELS

Mushrooms themselves provide you with lean proteins since they have

no cholesterol or fat and are very low in carbohydrates. The fiber and

certain enzymes in mushrooms also help lower cholesterol levels.

Moreover, the high, lean protein content in mushrooms helps burn

cholesterol when they are being digested. Balancing levels of cholesterol

between LDL cholesterol (“bad” cholesterol) and HDL (“good”

cholesterol) is essential in the prevention of various cardiovascular

diseases like arteriosclerosis, heart attack, and stroke.

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BREAST CANCER AND PROSTATE CANCER

Mushrooms are very effective in preventing breast and prostate cancer

due to the significant presence of various polysaccharides, like beta-

glucans and conjugated linoleic acid, which both have anti-carcinogenic

effects. Out of these two, linoleic acid is particularly helpful in

suppressing the harmful effects of excess estrogen. This increase in

estrogen is one of the prime causes of breast cancer in women after

menopause. The beta-glucans, on the other hand, inhibit the growth of

cancerous cells in cases of prostate cancer, and numerous studies have

shown the antitumor properties of mushrooms when applied medicinally.

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DIABETES AND BONE HEALTH

Mushrooms are an ideal low-energy diet for diabetics. They have no

fats, no cholesterol, very low levels of carbohydrates, high protein

content, and a wealth of vitamins and minerals. They also contain a lot

of water and fiber. Moreover, they contain natural insulin and enzymes,

which help the breaking down of sugar or starch in food. They are also

known to contain certain compounds that help proper functioning of the

liver, pancreas, and other endocrine glands, thereby promoting the

formation of insulin and its proper regulation throughout the body.

Diabetics often suffer from infections, particularly in their limbs, which

tend to continue for long periods of time. The natural antibiotics in

mushrooms can help protect diabetics from these painful and potentially

life-threatening conditions.

Mushrooms are a rich source of calcium, which is an essential nutrient in

the formation and strengthening of bones. A steady supply of calcium in

the diet can reduce your chances of developing conditions like

osteoporosis and can also reduce the joint pain and general lack of

mobility that is associated with bone degradation.

NUTRIENT ABSORPTION

Vitamin D is a relatively rare vitamin in vegetables, and in fact, edible

forms in general are not particularly common. However, mushrooms

have it, and this essential vitamin can facilitate the absorption and

metabolism of calcium and phosphorous. Mushrooms also contain these

two nutrients, so the combined effects of having all of these nutrients in

one powerful source—mushrooms—makes it a good idea to eat them

whenever possible.

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IMMUNE SYSTEM STRENGTH

Ergothioneine, a powerful antioxidant present in mushrooms, is very

effective in providing protection from free radicals as well as boosting the

immune system. It is actually an amino acid that contains sulfur, which is

something that many people are deficient in without knowing it. That

being said, the presence of this “master antioxidant,” which is unique to

mushrooms, can give a major boost to your immune system health. It

helps to eliminate free radicals, which are the dangerous compounds

that are released during the metabolic processes of cells and can float

throughout the body and cause significant damage and disease, so

antioxidants like ergothioneine are vital elements for overall health.

Mushrooms contain natural antibiotics (similar to penicillin, which itself is

extracted from mushrooms) that inhibit microbial growth and other fungal

infections. Those same polysaccharides, beta-glucans, can stimulate

and regulate the body’s immune system. They can also help heal ulcers

and ulcerous wounds and protect them from developing infections. The

good combination of vitamins A, B-Complex, and C that is found in

mushrooms also strengthens the immune system.

BLOOD PRESSURE

Studies of various types of mushrooms, including shitake and maitake

mushrooms, have shown them to be high in potassium content.

Potassium acts as a vasodilator, relaxing tension in blood vessels and

therefore reducing blood pressure. High blood pressure is connected to

a number of deadly conditions, particularly heart attacks and strokes.

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Potassium also increases cognitive function because increased blood

and oxygen flow to the brain stimulates neural activity. Studies have

shown that increased levels of potassium improve memory and

knowledge retention.

Maitake mushroom

COPPER AND SELENIUM CONTENT

Copper has a number of beneficial effects on the body, and can be

found in mushrooms. Calcium can regulate and stimulate the absorption

of iron from food, and properly utilize it by getting it released from

primary storage spots in the body like the liver. Mushrooms also have

high levels of iron, so the two work together for healthy bones and

preventing anemia.

The selenium content in mushrooms is one of the most beneficial

elements that is often overlooked. The primary source of selenium is

found in animal proteins; however, due to their classification as fungi that

feed off animal and plant matter, mushrooms are the best way for

vegetarians to obtain the necessary amount of selenium. Selenium is

found in large quantities in mushrooms and can benefit bone health by

adding to bone strength and increasing durability. It also strengthens the

teeth, hair, and nails. Furthermore, this essential nutrient is a powerful

antioxidant that rids the body of free radicals and generally strengthens

the immune system. The bioavailability of selenium in mushrooms differs

with species, but the majority of commonly consumed mushrooms have

significant levels of this important mineral.

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WEIGHT LOSS

Would you believe that a completely lean protein diet is ideal for losing

fat and building muscle mass? Well, believe it or not, it’s true. Most fats

are burned to digest proteins found in our food, more so when the

protein is accompanied by a very low carbohydrate count, no fat or

cholesterol, and a good amount of fiber. This is exactly the combination

that mushrooms offer to help in losing weight! Due to their nutrient

density, they actually rank higher than most fruits and vegetables, and

some researchers say that mushrooms are one of the rare foods that

people can eat as often as possible with no side effects.

One study replaced red meat with white button cap mushrooms,

approximately one cup per day, and found that those test subjects who

ate mushrooms not only lost a significant amount of weight over a

standard period of time but they also decreased their waistline and were

better able to maintain their new weight rather than ballooning back to

the original weight as is the case in most crash diets.

A FEW WORDS OF CAUTION:

On a much more serious note, mushrooms can be very dangerous! Most

species of mushrooms are not edible, are highly poisonous, and look

strikingly similar to their edible counterparts. Don’t ever try picking

mushrooms for consumption from the woods unless you have been

trained to identify them very well. Mushrooms have the unique ability to

absorb the material that they grow on, either good or bad. This quality is

what gives mushrooms so much of their beneficial power but also their

dangerous aspects. Many mushrooms, when picked in the wild, contain

heavy metals, which can be very toxic, as well as air and water

pollutants.

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<<<Beautiful but deadly (Amanita muscaria)

Also, do not trust any unknown vendors when you buy mushrooms.

Always trust sealed products from reputable companies or those that

you have grown yourself under controlled conditions after buying their

seeds (called spawns) from a trusted source. A single poisonous

mushroom among others in a dish can threaten a large number of

people’s health, resulting in comas, severe poisoning symptoms,

nausea, vomiting, convulsions, cramps, and insanity. Many species can

even be fatal if ingested. Always avoid eating discolored mushrooms or

those that are different in color than the typically accepted color of their

species.

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MUSHROOM MANCHURIAN RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

For the batter:

1 cup all-purpose flour

3 tbsp cornstarch

1 tsp ginger garlic paste

½ tsp black pepper powder or freshly crushed black pepper

1 tsp soy sauce

¾ cup water

salt and sugar as required

For the Manchurian:

200–250 grams button mushrooms

3–4 spring onions, finely chopped (reserve the greens for garnish)

2–3 green chilies, finely chopped

2 tsp finely chopped garlic

2 tsp finely chopped ginger

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1 tsp finely chopped celery (optional)

½ tsp black pepper powder or crushed black pepper

1 tbsp soy sauce

1 medium green or yellow bell pepper, sliced, diced, or chopped

Salt as required

HOW TO PREPARE IT

Preparing the mushrooms:

Rinse, dry, and halve the mushrooms.

Mix everything for the batter.

Heat oil for frying,

Dip the mushroom in the batter,and fry them till golden brown. Put

these aside.

Preparing the sauce:

Heat oil; add the spring onion whites, and stir fry them for a minute on a

medium flame.

Now add the chopped celery, green chili, ginger, garlic, and some of the

spring onion greens.

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Stir fry these also for a minute on a medium flame.

Add the black pepper, salt, sugar, and soy sauce.

Mix well. Add the fried mushroom to this sauce.

Stir so that the sauce coats the mushroom well.

Serve mushroom Manchurian hot and garnished with chopped spring

onion greens and celery.

Notes: The black pepper, sugar, and soy sauce can be adjusted to your

taste preferences. Also, the quantity of ginger, garlic, and green chilies

can be increased or decreased according to your spice preferences.

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MUSHROOM BIRYANI RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

1 heaped cup basmati rice, about 100 grams

2½ cups water; add more if required

200 to 250 grams button mushrooms

1 medium onion, about ½ cup finely chopped onion

1 medium tomato, about ½ cup tightly packed finely chopped tomatoes

1 or 2 green chilies, finely chopped

2 tsp ginger garlic paste, about 5 to 6 garlic and 1-inch ginger crushed in

a mortar-pestle

¼ cup tightly packed chopped mint leaves

¼ cup tightly packed chopped coriander leaves

8 to 10 medium-sized curry leaves

½ tsp turmeric powder

¼ tsp red chili powder

½ tsp garam masala powder

1½ tsp coriander powder

¼ tsp black pepper powder

2 to 3 tbsp oil

salt as required

whole spices:

¾ tsp cumin

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¾ tsp fennel

1-inch cinnamon

2 to 3 cloves

2 to 3 green cardamoms

2 to 3 strands of mace

1 small to medium Indian bay leaf

1-star anise

HOW TO PREPARE IT

Soak rice in enough water for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes drain

the rice and put aside.

When the rice is soaking, prep the rest of the ingredients, such as

chopping veggies, etc.

Heat oil in a deep pan or pot. Make sure that the bottom of the pan

is thick; otherwise, the rice can get browned or burned.

When the oil becomes hot, add all the whole spices: fennel, cumin,

cloves, bay leaf, cinnamon, green cardamoms, star anise, and

mace.

Fry the spices till fragrant for a few seconds.

Then add chopped onions and sauté till translucent.

Next add ginger-garlic paste, green chilies, half of mint and

coriander leaves, tomatoes,and curry leaves.

Stir well, and sauté this mixture till the tomatoes soften.

Then add coriander powder, turmeric powder, garam masala

powder, red chili powder, and black pepper powder.

Stir very well again so that the masalas or dry spice powders are

mixed evenly with the rest of the mixture.

Add sliced mushrooms. Stir again.

Sauté on a low to medium flame for 6 to 8 minutes. Keep on

stirring at intervals.

Add water andbring the mixture to a simmer.

Add the rice. Add the rest of the mint and coriander leaves; stir.

Season with salt.Check the taste of the stock; it should taste a bit

salty.

Cover the pan with a lid. On a low flame, cook the rice till the

grains are cooked well and all the water is absorbed. If the rice

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grains are not cooked and the water has dried up, add about ½ to

¾ cup water or more, if required.

You have to keep on checking the rice a couple of times to see if

the water has dries up or not. Once done, allow the rice to sit for 5

minutes. Then open the lid and gently fluff the rice.

Serve this south mushroom biryani with onion-tomato raita.

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KADAI MUSHROOM RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

For kadai masala:

1 tbsp coriander seeds

3 to 4 dry red chilies, broken and deseeded if preferred

½ tsp cumin seed

½ inch cinnamon

1 green cardamom

2 cloves

3 to 4 black pepper

1 single strand of mace (optional)

200–250 grams button mushrooms, sliced

1 medium to large bell pepper, thinly sliced or julienned (red, green,

or yellow)

2 medium to large tomatoes, pureed, about ¾ cup tomato puree (use

tomatoes that are ripe, red, and not too tangy)

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1 medium onion, about ½ cup finely chopped

½ inch ginger plus 3 to 4 medium garlic, crushed in a mortar-pestle or

1 tsp ginger-garlic paste

1 tsp dry fenugreek leaves, crushed

¼ tsp turmeric powder

½ cup water

3 tbsp oil

Salt as required

For garnish:

1 to 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

½ inch ginger, julienne

1 or 2 tbsp cream (Low fat 25% to 35% cream can be added right at the

end and mixed with the gravy.)

¼ tsp garam masala powder or Punjabi garam masala (Garam masala

powder can be added when you add the dry fenugreek leaves.)

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HOW TO PREPARE IT

Preparing the kadai masala:

First dry roast all the spices mentioned above for the kadai masala

on a low flame in a wok or a pan till fragrant. Don’t burn them.

Once the spices cool down, add them to a grinder jar.

Grind to a semi-fine or fine powder. Put the ground kadai masala

aside.

Preparing the kadai mushroom gravy:

In the same jar, add the chopped tomatoes. Blend the tomatoes

to a smooth puree. Put aside.

Rinse, wipe, and then slice the mushrooms. Also thinly slice the

bell pepper and chop the onions, etc.,and put aside.

Heat 3 tbsp oil in a wok or pan. Add the sliced mushrooms.

Stir and sauté the sliced mushrooms. First you will see the

mushrooms releasing a lot of water.

Later, the water will evaporate.Sauté till the mushrooms get

browned around the edges.

Remove the mushrooms, and put aside.

In the same oil, add the finely chopped onions; sauté the onions

till translucent or light golden.

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Now add the ginger-garlic paste and sauté till their raw aroma

disappears.

Add the tomato puree; stir and sauté till you see some oil

releasing from the sides.

Then add the sliced bell pepper. Stir and sauté for 5 to 6

minutes on low heat.

Add the ground kadai masala, and stir very well.

Then add ½ cup water. Season with salt.

Stir and bring the gravy to a simmer on low heat till you see a

few specks of oil on top.

Add the sautéed mushrooms.

Lastly, add crushed dry fenugreek leaves. Turn off the stove.

Stir and then serve kadai mushroom hot with rotis, parathas, or

naan. Garnish kadai mushrooms with ginger julienne and

chopped coriander leaves.

Notes: Other varieties of mushrooms can also be used instead of button

mushrooms. You can increase or decrease the number of red chilies as

per their heat and pungency.

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METHI MUSHROOM RESTAURANT-STYLE

RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

200–250 grams mushrooms

½ tsp turmeric or haldi

½ tsp chili powder

1 tsp coriander powder

½ cup curd

1 cup fresh methi leaves or 2 tbsp dry fenugreek leaves

1 large onion, chopped

3 medium tomatoes, chopped

1 or 2 green chilies, sliced or chopped

½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste

Salt as required

Whole garam masala

1 inch of cinnamon

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1 big cardamom

2‒3 green cardamom

2‒3 cloves

1 bay leaf

A pinch of mace (optional)

HOW TO PREPARE IT

Rinse the mushrooms in running water to get rid of any dirt.

Chop them, and put them aside.

In a bowl, beat the curd and salt.

Add the mushrooms to the curd, and marinate for 30‒40

minutes.

Meanwhile,remove the stems from the fenugreek leaves.

Soak in water for some seconds so that the dirt, etc., settles

down at the bottom.

Dump the water, and soak the leaves again.

Do this process a couple of times.

Now rinse the leaves well and drain them in a colander.

Chop the leaves finely.

Heat oil in a pan or kadai.

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Add the whole garam masala: cardamom, cinnamon, green

cardamom, black cardamom, bay leaf, and mace.

Fry the whole garam masala till the oil becomes fragrant. Don’t

burn it.

Add onions, and fry till golden brown.

Be patient as onions take time to get browned.

Keep stirring the onions.

Add the green chili and ginger-garlic paste.

Fry for a minute.

Add the tomatoes, and sauté them till they become pulpy.

Keep on stirring the masala.

Add all the dry spice powders: turmeric, coriander, and red chili

powder.

Sauté till the oil leaves from the sides of the whole mixture.

Lower the flame, and add the marinated mushrooms with the

yogurt.

Also add the chopped methi leaves or dry methi leaves.

Add about ¼ to ½ cup of water.

Stir, cover the pan or kadai, and simmer till the mushrooms are

cooked.

Check in between, and if the consistency looks dry, then add

some more water.

Once the mushrooms are cooked, adjust the seasoning.

Garnish methi mushroom with some coriander leaves.

Serve methi mushroom hot with rotis or naan.

Notes: Use fresh yogurt in the recipe. If the yogurt is not fresh or is sour,

there are chances of it getting spilt in the gravy. You can reduce or

increase the amount of red chili powder, green chilies,and ginger-garlic

paste as per your preference. Instead of oil, you can also use ghee.

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CHILI MUSHROOM RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

1 packet of white button mushrooms (200 to 250 grams)

1 large green bell pepper, cut into fine strips

3 tbsp onion or spring onion/scallion whites chopped

1 tbsp finely chopped celery (optional)

1 tbsp ginger

1 tbsp garlic

2‒3 green chilies, finely chopped or slit

1 tbsp cornstarch dissolved in 2 tbsp water

½ tbsp soy sauce (add more if you prefer)

½ tbsp vinegar

1 or 1½ cups water or vegetable stock

1 tbsp red chili paste or 2 tsp red chili powder

½ tsp freshly crushed black pepper, black pepper powder, or white

pepper powder

2 tbsp oil

Salt to taste

Sugar to taste

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Some chopped spring onion/scallion greens for garnishing

HOW TO PREPARE IT

Rinse the mushrooms in water and chop them.

Heat oil in a wok or kadai. Add the onions or spring onion whites.

Stir fry them on medium heat till they become transparent.

Now add the ginger, garlic, and green chilies, and stir fry for a

minute.

Add the capsicum and celery, and stir fry for a couple of minutes.

Add the mushrooms, and stir fry on medium heat till the

mushrooms start to get browned. They will shrink in size too.

This will take about 7‒8 minutes. The whole mixture should

become dry and the mushroom browned.

Add soy sauce, pepper powder, salt, sugar, and vinegar, and stir.

Stop here if you want a dry, chilly mushroom.

For a gravied and saucy chilly mushroom, follow the below steps.

Add water or vegetable stock to the mushrooms. Let this mixture

heat up and simmer.

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Add the cornstarch paste to this mixture slowly. Keep on stirring so

that the sauce does not form lumps.

When the sauce is thick enough, remove from heat.

Check the seasonings, and add more soy sauce, sugar, salt, or

black pepper as required.

Serve chili mushroom hot with some veggie fried rice or even plain

rice.

This chili mushroom recipe also goes well with breads.

Notes:

1. Green chilies, garlic, ginger, red chili paste, black pepper powder, salt,

and sugar can be adjusted to suit one’s taste.

2. I have stir fried the veggies on medium heat so that they don’t burn. If

using high heat to stir fry the veggies, then be careful so that they don’t

burn.

3. Add more cornstarch if you want a thicker sauce or gravy.

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MUSHROOM TIKKA

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

200‒250 grams button mushrooms

½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste or crushed ginger-garlic (approx. ½ inch ginger

and 3‒4 garlic crushed in a mortar and pestle)

½ tsp carom seeds

¼ or ½ tsp organic red chili powder (½ tsp red chili powder makes the

tikka a bit hot)

¼ tsp garam masala powder

A pinch of turmeric powder

3‒4 tbsp besan or gram flour

1 tbsp oil (to be used only if grilling or baking the mushrooms in the

oven)

Salt and black salt as required, or rock salt

chaat masala to sprinkle

A few chopped coriander leaves for garnishing

A few drops of lemon juice as required and lemon wedges to be served

1 medium onion, sliced thinly with some salt and lemon juice added to

serve as an accompaniment

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HOW TO PREPARE IT

Rinse the mushrooms well in water.

Drain and wipe them dry.

Trim the earthy base stalks a little.

Put all the mushrooms in a mixing bowl.

Add all the spice powders,

carom seeds, salt, and oil.

Mix well.

Keep aside to marinate for

20‒25 minutes.

Preheat the oven to

200°C.

After 20‒25 minutes, add

the gram flour, and mix

well.

Bake in the oven for 25‒30 minutes or till the mushrooms are

tender and browned.

When grilling, after 15‒20 minutes, you can turn the skewers so

that there is uniform grilling.

If you want, you can sprinkle or spray some oil on the mushrooms

after 15‒20 minutes.

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Sprinkle some lemon juice, chaat masala, and coriander leaves on

the mushroom tikka.

Serve mushroom tikka hot or warm with a green chutney, rotis or

naan, or even bread.

Notes:

1. If frying the tikka, then don’t add oil to the marinade.

2. Another option for frying:Marinate the mushrooms first. Then make

a thick batter with gram flour, water, and salt. Dip the marinated

mushrooms in the batter, and deep fry or shallow fry.

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DHINGRI DOLMA RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

200 grams of button mushrooms

175 grams paneer

½ tsp black cumin seeds/caraway seeds

1 onion

1 tomato

½ inch ginger

1 or 2 tsp ginger-garlic paste

½ tsp white pepper powder (as an alternative, you can use black pepper

powder)

¼ tsp red chili powder

¼ tsp garam masala powder

¼ cup coriander leaves/cilantro leaves

2 tbsp ghee or oil

Salt

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HOW TO PREPARE IT

Wash the mushrooms, and slice them.

Dice the onions and tomatoes.

Grate the paneer coarsely.

Crush both ginger and garlic in a mortar pestle to make the paste.

Chop the coriander, and julienne the ginger.

Heat ghee or oil in a wok. Add the black cumin, and fry till it

crackles.

Add onions.

Sauté the onions until light brown.

Add the ginger-garlic paste, and sauté till the raw smell of the

paste disappears.

Add mushrooms and stir. Sauté for 2 minutes.

Add the red chili powder, pepper, and salt. Sauté for 2‒3 minutes

more till the mushrooms are cooked.

Now add the paneer. Mix the paneer with the rest of the mixture,

and cook for 4‒5 minutes, stirring periodically.

Add the tomatoes, and sauté for 4‒5 minutes more. You just want

to cook the tomatoes and not make them mushy.

Towards the end, sprinkle garam masala and stir.

Add some chopped coriander leaves and julienned ginger, and put

aside the remaining to be used for garnish later. Adjust the

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seasoning. Remove to a bowl or a dish, and garnish with the

remaining ginger and coriander.

Serve Dhingri Dolma hot or warm with phulkas. This Dhingri Dolma

recipe even goes well with bread.

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MUSHROOM PULAO RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

1½ cup basmati rice (or any type of long grained rice)

1 packet of button mushrooms (about 200‒250 grams)

1 medium onion, thinly sliced or finely chopped

1 medium tomato, chopped

1 medium potato, peeled and cubed (optional)

1 green chili, chopped

1 or 1½ tsp ginger-garlic paste or crushed ginger-garlic, about 2 to 3

garlic and ½ inch ginger

½ tsp cumin

2 to 3 green cardamoms

3 to 4 cloves

4 to 5 black peppercorns

1 to 1½ inches cinnamon

1 cup thick coconut milk and 1½ to 2 cups water or 2½ to 3 cups water

(Add depending on the quality of rice; usually most basmati rice that has

been soaked for 20 to 30 minutes before, requires about 2½ cups water

if you want separate grains. For a slightly more cooked texture, you can

add 3 cups of water.)

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2 tbsp vegetable oil

Salt or sea salt as required

HOW TO PREPARE IT

Wash and soak the rice for 20 to 30 minutes. When the rice is

soaking, chop all the veggies. Rinse and chop the mushrooms too.

Take all the garam masala, and put it aside.

In a pressure cooker, heat the oil. Add the garam masala,

including the cumin, and fry till they become fragrant.

Add the onions, and fry them till translucent.

Add the ginger-garlic paste, and sauté till the raw smell of the

paste disappears.

Now add the chopped tomatoes, potatoes, and mushrooms. Sauté

for 8‒10 minutes till the mushrooms are half cooked. Keep on

stirring periodically.

Add the soaked rice and the chopped green chili.

Sauté the rice for 1‒2 minutes, stirring on low heat.

Add the coconut milk and water. Stir and season with salt.

Pressure cook the rice for 2 to 3 whistles.

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When the pressure settles down on its own, remove the lid and

gently fluff the rice.

Garnish with coriander leaves or mint leaves, and serve mushroom

pulao with sliced onions and lime. You could also have mushroom

pulao with onion-tomato raita.

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GOAN MUSHROOM VINDALOO RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

For the Vindaloo Paste:

10‒11 Kashmiri red chilies, deseeded

2 tbsp coriander seeds

1 tbsp cumin seeds

4 cloves, each 1 inch

2-inch piece of ginger

11‒12 small- to medium-sized garlic

1 tsp turmeric powder

3 tbsp vinegar/malt vinegar

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For the Vindaloo:

2 packets of button mushrooms, rinsed and chopped

2 medium potatoes, cubed

2 medium onions, chopped

2 green chilies, chopped

4 green cardamoms

4‒5 cloves

10‒12 black peppercorns

¾ cup oil

½ cup chopped coriander leaves

2 to 3 cups water (add more water if you want a thin curry)

Salt to taste

HOW TO PREPARE IT

Grind all the spices and herbs mentioned for the vindaloo masala

paste with vinegar to a smooth paste.

Heat oil and fry the potato cubes. Drain and put aside.

In the same pan, fry the whole spices: cardamom, cloves and

peppercorns.

Once they sizzle, add the chopped onions and fry till they become

transparent.

Now add the masala paste, and fry the paste for 12‒15 minutes on

low heat.

Keep on stirring the paste periodically to ensure it does not burn.

Add the green chiles and mushrooms, and mix these well with the

vindaloo paste.

Sauté the mushrooms for 8‒10 minutes.

Add water and salt, and simmer the gravy for 10‒12 minutes.

Finally, add the fried potatoes, and simmer for 1 minute.

Garnish mushroom vindaloo with coriander leaves.

Serve mushroom vindaloo hot.

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MUSHROOM CHEESE OMELET RECIPE

THE REQUIRED INGREDIENTS

2 eggs

3‒4 fresh button mushrooms

½ an onion

½ tsp pepper

1 tsp mixed herbs

1‒2 tbsp butter or oil

1 tsp salt

1‒2 tbsp grated or chopped cheese

HOW TO PREPARE IT

Chop the onions. Finely chop the mushrooms so that they take

less time to cook.

Beat the eggs well. Add ½ tsp salt, and put aside.

In a pan, melt the butter or heat the oil. Add in the onions and

mushrooms with the remaining ½ tsp salt.

Sauté for 2‒3 mins till both the onions and mushrooms are

cooked. Add the dry mixed herbs and pepper. Mix it with the

onions and mushrooms. Sauté for a minute.

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Now spread the onion-mushroom mixture evenly on the pan.

Pour the beaten eggs on this mixture. The eggs will spread and

cover the onion-mushrooms mixture. Spread the eggs with a

spoon or spatula so that they cover the onion and mushrooms

evenly.

Drizzle more butter or oil on the sides and top.

Lift the base, and check if it’s browned. When it’s browned, flip the

omelet carefully with a spatula.

Let the other side cook. Add more butter or oil if needed.

When this side becomes slightly brown (check by lifting the

omelet), then top the omelet with chopped or grated cheese.

Fold the mushroom omelet, and cook for 1‒2 minutes more or till

the omelet is browned. Flip sideways if required.

Remove from the pan, and serve the mushroom omelet hot with

buttered toast.

Notes:

1. After adding the beaten egg, ensure that the omelet is cooked on

low heat so that the omelet does not burn.

2. Instead of mixing the eggs with the cooked mushroom-onion

mixture, you could first prepare this mixture and put it aside. Then

make the omelet, and when it gets cooked, top up the mushroom-

onion mixture with cheese. Fold the omelet, and serve.

3. Use freshly ground pepper to give the omelet a fresh aroma and

taste.

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Final Thoughts:

Mushrooms can be considered a super-food thanks to their nutritional

and even medicinal properties. Not only are they tasty in almost all

shapes, sizes, and forms but they are also very versatile when it comes

to cooking methods. Edible mushrooms are easy to find and procure but

not necessarily easy to spot. If you’re picking your own mushrooms, you

must be 150% sure that you’re getting your hands on only edible

mushrooms. Do some research in the field of biology first as looks can

be deceiving and you might pick the wrong mushrooms. This is to be

avoided as mushroom poisoning can cause serious health problems and

even death.

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HOW TO STORE AND PRESERVE

MUSHROOMS

Filling Up the Pantry with All Sorts of Edible Fungi

INTRODUCTION

WHAT IS A MUSHROOM?

“Mushroom” can be a pretty confusing word. Is it plant? Or is it an

animal? In recent times, it has been discovered that they are most likely

related to animals. I am clearing up the mystery. Mushrooms are the fruit

bodies that are created by some fungi. Fungi are not the same as plants,

and plants are different from animals (obviously). In reality, animals and

fungi are now included in the same group, and that means one super-

kingdom. A large number of spores are created separately by the visible

division of the fungi in the shortest duration. The spores can be

considered the seeds of the mushroom. The spores are carried from one

place to another by the wind or by living beings that come in contact with

them. When they land in a suitable place, they grow and develop into

newindividuals. The mushroom body is called mycelium.

The oldest mushroom found in amber is from 90 million years ago. A

fossil was exposed by scientists in 1859, and it was named Prototaxite.

Qualitative analysis going back over 420 million years says that they

originated from a time when the plants were a couple of feet tall.

Prototaxites that were three feet tall were abundant; however, there

were other living organisms standing over 30 feet tall. In either case, it

might be the tallest organism in the world,and it was one of the largest

fungi! In the oldest living mushroom groups, there are fairy rings growing

around the renowned Stonehenge ruins. The rings are giant looking, and

they can be seen from airplanes.

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MUSHROOM MORPHOLOGY

True mushrooms usually appear to be umbrella-shaped. They have a

flat-topped stalk followed by a flat or bowl cap. Their spores are

createdin special cells known as basidia, which are settled on the side of

the cap. The categories of fungi whose spores are created by basidia

are known as Basidiomycetes. People often want to know about the

distinction between toadstools and mushrooms. Any mushroom will be

known as agarics, and sometimes it may be a toxic mushroom.

Mushrooms contain no pigment, and most of them fall into the

saprophytes group. They acquire their nutrition from metabolizing non-

living organic matter. This impliesthat they break down and eat dead

plants, just like our compost pilesdo.

The body of the mushroom stores nutrients and alternative essential

compounds, and once enough material is stored and the conditions are

right, they begin to fruit, turninginto full-grown mushrooms. It is a hidden

kingdom. The fungus part that is visible is simply the “fruit” of the

organism. The living body of the fungus is hidden from sight. It creates

little filaments known as hyphae, which are very moist. The mycelium is

usually hidden inside wood, the soil, or anotherfood supplies (which will

spoil as a result). The hyphae are made up of two parts. One is the

mushroom’s cap, and the other part is its branch.

A mycelium could look like one-winged insect or cowl several acres of

ground. The branching hyphae will add a linear unit (1 km) of total length

to the mycelium on a daily basis. These are hidden from sight till they

develop the fruiting body, brackets, truffles, cups, puffballs, corals, birds’

nests shape, or alternative mature bodies.

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WHERE AND WHEN MUSHROOMS GROW

Mushrooms and other fungi in general reproduce pretty much

everywhere, on every nutritious substrate. Some fungi grow only in

association with certain trees. Others grow on large firewood.

Mushrooms are also found in natural woods, in soil, on rotten leaves, in

cow dung, and in manure.

Mushrooms will not appear until the temperature and moisture

conditions are appropriate. Some mushrooms will grow during only one

season of the entire year. During hot weather, they often appear seven

to ten days after a rain.

CAN MUSHROOMS BE PRESERVED OR STORED?

If you happen to live in an area full of edible mushrooms or you go

mushroom picking for fun, there is no reason to let the fruits of your labor

go to waste. Don’t let the surplus spoil for nothing. There are plenty of

tips and tricks you can use from the mushroom industry, or you can take

the way of the prepper. Fill the fridge with some for immediate

consumption while storing away the rest for future use. Mushrooms can

be dried or frozen in order to last for as long as possible.

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CHAPTER I: 4 WAYS TO PRESERVE FRESH

MUSHROOMS

If you thought freezing mushrooms was impossible, you were wrong.

White button mushrooms are the most widely available fresh

mushrooms for freezing, but they aren’t particularly tasty. Crimini and

portobello varieties have an earthier flavor, as do shiitake mushrooms,

which can be identified by their umbrella-shaped caps. Oyster

mushrooms are more fragile and don’t last over long cooking periods.

You can freeze any of these varieties, but as far as taste and nutritional

value goes, it’s better to consume them as fresh as possible. Freezing

them before cooking will destroy the cellular walls, which will result in a

soft texture after they defrost. So the process of preservation will vary for

different types of mushrooms. What is appropriate for one may not be

appropriate for the other.

1. Freezing cooked mushrooms

2. Blanching and freezing

3. Freezing uncooked morel or morel-type mushrooms

4. Duxelles

FREEZING COOKED MUSHROOMS

Some mushrooms may be frozen whole, and every one of them may be

frozen after a brief sauté. To freeze mushrooms whole, it is

recommended to put them through a process consisting of blanching

them in a pot of boiling water for about one minute. Remove the

mushrooms from the water; then drain well. Place the mushrooms on

cookie sheets, and then place the cookie sheets into a deep-freezer for

approximately 30–40 minutes or till the mushrooms are frozen. Remove

the mushrooms, and transfer them to labeled bag. Chanterelles,

Hedgehogs, Blewits, Hericium species, Black Trumpets, and closed (cap

is unopened) genus Agaricus mushrooms respond well to this technique

of storing.

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If you are planning to sauté the mushrooms initially, begin by slicing

them to your required size and putting them in a frying pan on low to

medium heat. Add enough butter to coat the bottom of the pan and keep

the mushrooms from sticking. When the mushrooms begin to cook,

cover the frying pan and permit the water to be drawn out of the

mushrooms. Keep them coated for a couple of minutes and stir often.

Take the cover off, and permit the water to cook away. Remove from

heat, cool, then place them in storage containers and freeze for later

use. Any mushroom can be preserved via this method, and they’re great

for flavoring soups, sauces, and stuffing or, with additional preparation,

can be eaten as a separate dish.

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BLANCHING AND FREEZING MUSHROOMS

1. Wash the mushrooms.

2. Slice the mushrooms into quarters.

3. Let the mushroomsdrain. Then place them directly into a

pot of boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Remove the blanched mushrooms by tipping into a sieve or

a strainer.

5. Throw the mushrooms into the chilly water to end the

cooking process and sieve.

6. Put them in a plastic freezer container. Leave a little space

on the top.

7. Close it and then freeze.

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FREEZING UNCOOKED MOREL OR MOREL-TYPE

MUSHROOMS

When defrosted, some mushrooms will turn into a soggy pulp;if you want

to counteract this effect, use the follwing method. It will better some

types of mushrooms that have a deep texture, like morels.

1. Washthe desired amount of fresh morel mushrooms under

running tap water (wash them whole or slice them before

doing so).

2. Then take a pan and add a teaspoon of vegetable oil. Add

oil to the mushrooms too, and then mix well.

3. Put the washed mushrooms,either whole or sliced, into a

plastic freezer bag. Put in the freezer. You can freeze for as

long as they are required. It is best for up to three months

however.

4. Defrost mushrooms when required. Remove them from the

freezer, and get them ready tocook. Sometimes no thawing

will be necessary. Just throw them into a cooking pan,and

let the excess water evaporate.

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DUXELLES

Duxelles are mushrooms that have been previously thinly sliced or

chopped. They require some additional ingredients, such as butter,

green onions, orherbs.This method is easy to do, and it’s perfect for

short-term storage. Storage time can be anywhere from a week to a

month. This is how you do it:

1. Wash and dry the mushrooms.

2. Slice or chop the mushrooms thinly.

3. Start cooking the sliced/chopped mushrooms, and add onions and

butter in a pan until theysoften. You can mix fresh herbs

according to your taste. You should make sure that the

mushrooms are thinly sliced or chopped. Parsley leaves best

improve the taste.

4. Add a pinch of wine to the mix as well.

5. Keep the pot in the freezer; just make sure to label it first. This

way you’ll know the exact expiration date.

6. It can be used with chicken breastsor in mushroom cream soup.

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CHAPTER II: HOW TO FREEZE MUSHROOMS

FOR PRESERVATION

Here is how to freeze two of the most used mushroom types.

1. How to Freeze White Button Mushrooms

2. How to Freeze Oyster Mushrooms

THE STEP-BY-STEP PROCESS OF FREEZING WHITE BUTTON

MUSHROOMS

Sometimes people get mushrooms on sale only to later find that they

bought more than they actually needed. Well, they don’t need to go to

waste if you use them properly before they decompose. Considering the

unstable economic situations many are facing today, it is

understandable why people want to stock up on vegetables while they

are on sale. However, if you don’t use them while they’re fresh, they’ll

spoil and lose all of their nutritional value. If this happens, you’ll have

lost both money and food. But there’s no need to worry. Many

vegetables can be frozen for up to one to two years in the freezer,

depending on the kind.

Here is how you freeze fresh white button mushrooms after cooking.

The method is easy, fast, and efficient, and the mushrooms can last for

up to a year in the freezer.

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Items you’ll need for the preservation process:

Mushrooms

Freezer pot with cover

Plastic wrap

Stockpot

Steamer

Steaming stand

Pot for ice water

Seasonings (i.e., salt, pepper)

Citric acid or lemon juice or orange juice

Ice cubes

The Stir Fry Method:

1. Mushrooms should be pre-sliced. If they are not,you can slice or

chop them yourself.

2. Use 1 tablespoon of food preparation oil per 8 ounces of

mushrooms.

3. Take a skillet and place it over medium heat(with the appropriate

amount of oil in it); sauté the mushrooms for about 5 minutes or

until they become tender and turn a light brown color.

4. If you wish to enhance the flavor, just add seasonings (i.e., salt,

pepper), onions, green onions, garlic, and shallots to the pan.

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5. Let the mushrooms cool down to room temperature. Move to a

freezer container and cover in plastic wrap. Close it properly, and

be sure to write the date on it.

6. When you want to help yourself to the mushrooms, just serve

them out of the container. If you use the frozen mushrooms for

soup, casserole, steaming, or baking, there is no need to melt

them. But melting is needed if you are using oil to boil orcook, like

stir-fry.

Steaming Process:

1. Take alargesteam pot, and putarack on the bottom. Get a steamer

where the vegetables are steamed on top of the rack, and put

water in it.

2. Bring water to a boil then turn down to a simmer. Put the

mushrooms in the steamer. Cover it and continue to simmer for 2

to 3 minutes.

3. Remove mushrooms from the heat, and let the mushrooms cool

at room temperature. Store them in a freezer container;cover

them with plastic wrap to help prevent freezer burn. Use when

needed.

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THE WHITE MUSHROOM BLANCHING PROCESS

1. Prepare a container with ice and cold water. Put it aside.

2. Put more water in a pot, and then add freshly sliced white

button mushrooms to the boiling water. Blanch for 2

minutes.

3. Move mushrooms to the icy cold water to abruptly stop the

cooking process.

4. When the mushrooms are chilled, throw them in the freezer

inside a containerpartially wrapped in plastic wrapin order to

prevent frost damage. Lock the container tightly. Consume

like fresh mushrooms when needed.

5. Citric acid like orange juice, lime juice, or lemon juice can be

added during cooking to avoid dark coloring while you

defrost them for later for use. Use or ½ teaspoon citric juice

or ¼ teaspoon citric acid per8ounces of mushrooms.

People can freeze mushrooms just like the frozen vegetables or frozen

foods that can found at the supermarket. Just don’t keep uncooked

mushrooms in your freezer for too long; they will decay, making them

soggy and unfit for human consumption. Mushrooms should be cooked

or blanched in steam or boiling water.

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HOW TO TELL WHEN WHITE MUSHROOMS ARE BAD

First check the color and surface of the white mushrooms.

Mushrooms that are older and disfigured due to dehydration are

dried up;sort out the good ones from the bad ones. White

mushrooms should be flawless, with a smooth texture and a bright

white color.

Check the caps of the white button mushrooms and cup

mushrooms. Rotate the mushrooms over to check the caps.

Unwrapped caps show that the mushrooms are old, where closed

caps are a symbol that the mushrooms are fresh and tender.

Mushroom caps open up when the mushrooms become older.

Check the outside of the white mushrooms. If you notice that the

mushrooms is covered in a thin layer of substance all around, this

means it has gone bad and should be thrown away.

THE PROCESS OF FREEZING OYSTER MUSHROOMS

These types of mushrooms grow on different trees and might grow eight

inches in width. It is low in fat and contains a high amount of protein.

They’re used as a replacement for seafood because their flavor and

texture is similar to oysters. As oyster mushrooms tend to become

unhealthy within a number of days, appropriate storage is crucial for

long-term use. At first, blanch freshly cut oyster mushrooms before

chilling. This process kills the enzymes and stabilizes chemical

reactions within the mushrooms.

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Here is the step-by-step preservation process:

Items Needed for Freezing

Freezercontainer

Oyster mushrooms

Metal strainer

Large pot

Instructions

1. Clean mushrooms carefully with a moist cloth and warm water.

Remove sand and dirt thoroughly from small gaps.

2. Warm up a pot of water until it starts to boil.

3. Blanch the mushrooms in boiling water for two to three minutes.

4. Remove boiled mushrooms from the boiling water and put them

in a bowl filled with ice water to stop the cooking process.

5. Put the mushrooms in a strainer, and let them dry completely;

excess moisture will cause spoilage.

6. Seal an 8-ounce container full of mushrooms, and place it in the

freezer. It is the ideal quantity to add to a soup or stir-fry.

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Tips & Warnings

Store mushrooms in a paper bag in the fridge at a temperature

of approximately 40°F. Cook the mushrooms within three days

of buying them. Consume them as soon as possible, according

to the expiration date on the package.

Never store mushrooms in plastic bags, to prevent them from

spoiling due to moisture surplus, which tends to build up; use

paper bags.

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IMPORTANT: Paper bags are best option for storing mushrooms

at low temperatures!

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CHAPTER III: HOW TO STORE MUSHROOMS

Before storing,there are a few steps that you shouldn’t skip: cleaning,

cooking, and salting for storage. Once the searching is over and you

have the mushrooms you need, it’s time to start the real work. But how

exactly do things work? There are many methods, and everyone will

uphold the one that works best for them.What you’re about to read is

common knowledge thatwill provide you with some general concepts

thatwill work in anyone’s kitchen. The following tips are some very

helpful concepts and methodologies.

Before starting these processes, keep in mind that mushrooms will

keepin the fridgefor a few days at most. Therefore, you shouldn’t wait

too long before you start cleaning and processing your mushrooms; the

sooner you start, the better. Just place a damp towel over your

mushrooms while storing them in the freezer or an alternative cooling

place. This will prevent them from drying out before use.

CLEANING

The bodies of the mushrooms will remain dirty, even after a decent rain.

While we have a tendency to love the flavor of wild mushrooms, nobody

wants to serve a side dish of dirt, germs, and bugs with their

mushrooms. So the question is, what is the most effective mushroom

cleaning process? Cleaning mushrooms is just as important as sorting

them right, if not more. It’s a popular belief (for some people at least)

that subjecting mushrooms directly to water will permanently spoil their

taste. Others (people with more common sense) believe that not

washing them is nonsense, as unwashed mushrooms can seriously

jeopardize your health. Cleaning the mushrooms properly before

consumption or storage is a must. And you don’t need much to do so; all

you need is a knife, a mushroom brush (available at cooking stores), or

a soft bristle toothbrush and some dish towels to get you started.

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Use a knife to chop away or scrape off larger contaminants and leaves.

You can remove finer soil particles with a nylon mushroom brush or a

soft bristle toothbrush. Use a moist towel to wipe the dirt from firm

mushrooms. If the dirt doesn’t come off by brush only, try running cold

water over the mushrooms whilegently brushing away the residue. A

knife should be used to cut away unhealthy or unusable parts and to

scrape off dust and dirt found in the crevices of some mushrooms.

Mushrooms like Hen of the Woods (Grifola frondosa) and Hedgehog

(Hydnum sp.) typically contain areas that are quite dirty, and a knife is

an absolute must in this case.

Wild mushrooms are buggy. To get rid of the bugs, you can soak them in

salt water. It works well, but keep in mind that prolonged exposure to salt

water will reduce flavor and texture; the effect is more noticeable in

some mushrooms than others.

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COOKING

We will not mention individual recipes here. As a rule, never eat a wild

raw mushroom. Yes, there will be exceptions to this rule, but therisk of

death is high unless you really know what you’re doing. Well-textured

mushrooms are easier to digest and supply additional nutrients once

boiled.

The preparation of mushrooms in unsalted butter enhances the flavor of

most edible mushrooms. Some people suggest that the utilization of

vegetable oil or different pungent oils will reduce the natural flavor of the

mushrooms. These oils will overpower the fragile flavor and aroma of

some wild mushrooms. But if you have your heart set on cooking your

mushrooms in oil, stay as far away as possible from canola or false

saffron oil. Adding citric acid (orange, lime, or lemon juice) during the

cooking process will help the mushrooms maintain their color and flavor.

Salt is also a flavor enhancer but only if added toward the end of the

cooking process. Large mushrooms should always be sliced or chopped

before cooking; this is not necessary for small mushrooms. Try to slice

or chop the mushroom as consistently as possible.

Most mushroom varieties ought to be cooked; the remaining juices from

cooking can be used in any recipe or consumed in small amounts. One

such mushroom is the Agaricus, one of the most famous cooking

mushrooms in the world.

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DEHYDRATING MUSHROOMS

Dehydration is a very efficient way of preserving the mushrooms for a

long time. It is very important that dried mushrooms are placedin proper

storage conditions to preserve their nutritional value. They should be

kept under practical and strict storage conditions in a proper pantry or

storage room that is dark and cool. They’re best kept in air-tight plastic

containers or glass jars. If you don’t have a proper pantry at your

disposal, you can always freeze them and keep them in the fridge. Place

the dried mushrooms in a clean, tightly sealed cooler sack. The purpose

behind most intense icy stockpiling is to protect warmth and dampness

levels, whichare the main enemies of stored mushrooms. The

mushrooms ought to keep for 6–12 months.

Oven Drying:

You must remove any stalks or unnecessary parts;then slice the edible

partsthinly. Consistency is necessary and will help better the flavor. If

you are going to use an over, then follow the manufacturer’s directions.

You will be able to dehydrate mushrooms in the oven by placing them on

a tray lined with parchment paper. Set the oven’s temperature to 150°F,

and dry the mushrooms completely. Some mushrooms, like morels, can

be pierced with a needle and hung up to dry.

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The key part of drying is to remove ALL the moisture to avoid spoilage.

Once dried, the mushrooms should be placed in airtight containers and

moved to a dark place to preventmoldfrom growing on their surface. If

you are unsure of whether or not the moisture has been completely

removed, store the containers in a deepfreeze. Some mushrooms are

sensitive to drying: Morels, Chanterelles, Black Trumpets (whose flavor

appears to be increased by drying), Clitocybe nuda, and Boletes.

Note: To structure dried mushrooms, you have to soak them in warm

water for approximately 20 minutes. Don’t use boiling water, as this will

reduce shelf life. The water that is leftover from the soaking can be used

as a flavor enhancer for various dishes or saved for soup. The Hericium

abioticmushroomcan be simply preserved by chilling.

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Salting:

This preservation method goes back a long way, and itis still utilizedall

over the world. You need to use a ratio of three components salt to

onemushrooms for this method. (One pound of mushrooms would

require three pounds of salt.) First clean up the mushrooms completely

and slice them properly. Take a coated glass jar and fill it with a layer of

sea salt; on top of that, add a layer of sliced mushrooms. Continue this

method till the jar is full, and then put the lid on tightly. After a few hours

the mushrooms will have decreased in size; when this happens, more

space opens up in the jar, so add more sliced mushrooms and salt.

Continue till full and then store in an extremely cool location.

Mushrooms preserved in this manner should be rinsed and soaked in

cold water before being cooked. These mushrooms work well with meat-

based dishes. People use this technique with Hedgehog, Blewits,

Russulagenus Lactarius species, or Oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus)

mushrooms.

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Powdering:

Dried mushrooms can be systematically turned into powder, and the

powder can be used for flavoring various stews, different types of soups,

and all assortments of dishes. Just place the dried mushrooms in a food

processor or grinder and grind them to a fine powder. Keep the powder

in a well-sealed container, and preserve in a cool place. Powdered

mushrooms have a very intense flavor, so use it wisely. It’s best to

experiment with it over time if you wish to get it right. The best powdered

mushrooms are Puffballs and Boletes.

Pickling:

Mushrooms can be pickled with regular pickling salt water and pickling

methods. If anyone knows the procedure for pickling cucumbers, they

will know how to pickle mushrooms as well. In order to improve the

overall flavor, you can add various herbs and spices to the brine; feel

free to experiment, and go as far as your imagination will take you.

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Packed in Oil:

Here is one more procedure in which you can use different types of

oilsas preservatives. You will need to mixa mug of wine vinegar with 1/3

cup of water and boil it in a pot over medium heat. Add a few spices to

the mix, like thyme, salt, bay leaf,and so forth, and then boil for about 15

to 20 more minutes. Clean the mushrooms thoroughly and slice them.

Once they’re ready, throw them in the boiling pot and let them simmer

for about 8–10 minutes.

Once the time is up, take them out and let them dry. Put the mushrooms

in a clean canning container (glass jars work best), and cover them in

olive oil. Close the container and put in a cool and dark place. The oil

coating will inhibit potentially harmful bacteria from degrading the

structure of the mushrooms. During maturation, the oil will borrow flavor

from the mushrooms; after taking out the mushrooms, you can use the

mushroom-flavored olive oil as salad dressing.

a

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CHAPTER IV: TYPES OF MUSHROOMS

Mushrooms are fleshy, plant-like growths that are utilized in gastronomy

throughout the world. There are several thousand varieties of

mushrooms. Not all mushrooms are edible however; some are toxic and

can cause death. There are many ways of telling them apart, but this

can be tricky too as many poisonous species have a lot of similarities

with non-poisonous ones. Some of the best edible fungi in the world are

the white mushrooms, morels, truffles, portobello mushrooms, the

chanterelle, shiitake, oyster, and enoki.

WHITE MUSHROOMS

The most common kind of mushroom found in stores is of the Agaricus

sort. Its color varies from white to dark brown, and it has several

common names, like the white mushroom, Italian mushroom, white

button mushrooms, or table mushroom. This delicate mushroom

includes a stalk and a tall, dome-shaped “umbrella.” White mushrooms

can be served fresh, dried, or canned.

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PORTOBELLO

Portobello mushrooms are similar to white mushrooms; however, they

are abundantly larger and browner. They are harvestedonly after

reaching maturity, which provides them with an additional dense texture

and a deeper flavor. Before they reach full maturity, they are referred to

as crimini mushrooms. They are a great substitute for white mushrooms.

CHANTERELLE

These mushrooms have a very distinct look and rise from a white or

slightly yellow colored stalk and gap into a vase-like or flower-like form

covered in bright yellow or orange hues. They have a fragile texture and

become even more fragile after cooking. They are easy to gather and

prepare. Chanterelles are particularly easy to make into salads and

appetizers.

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MORELS

These conic shape mushrooms vary in color from tan to brown. In

contrast to white mushrooms, which have a sleek surface, morels have a

porous, sponge-like look. They possess a strongflavor that has been

represented as earthy, smoky,and even nutty. These mushrooms are

more expensive than white mushrooms. They need to be thoroughly

cleaned before cooking or storing.

TRUFFLES

Truffles are quite rare and expensive, meaning they’re considered a real

delicacyamong the wealthy. Technically, they are not actual mushrooms.

However, they are closely related. Truffles have a rugged, uneven look.

Their appearance is striking, looking similar to a meatball. Their color is

a taste indicator: The darker the color, the tastier the truffle.

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SHIITAKE

Shiitake mushrooms are largely brown and have wide, umbrella-shaped

roofs. They contain a dense texture and meaty flavor, so they’re typically

used as a meat substitute in vegetarian dishes. Shiitake mushroom are

one of the many different kinds of mushrooms that are widely used in all

sorts of dishes and recipes all over the world.

ENOKI

Enoki mushrooms grow in bunches. They possess long, slender stems

and little white caps. These crisp mushrooms have a gentle flavor that

has been represented as somewhat fruity. They are typically eaten raw

in salads or sandwiches.

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OYSTER

These mushrooms get their name from their look and their flavor. They

are white, beige, or gray and are found in the wild growing in big trees.

Their branches have broad gills. Usually, it is the top that resembles an

oyster. These mushrooms have a soft, delicate texture, very similar to

that of seafood. They are particularly common and are very tasty if deep

fried.

CRIMINI

These are similar in appearance to white mushrooms and have a rich,

brownish cap. They are marginally tan and have a firm texture.Criminis

have an earthier and more profound flavor than that of their counterpart,

the white mushroom. They have a full, meaty taste. This makes them

perfect for meat-based dishes or even as a substitute for meat.

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MAITAKE

Maitake is a substantial edible mushroom that isindigenous to the

mountains of northeastern Japan. It’s scietifically known as Grifola

frondosa. The maitake can be eaten as a normal foodbut also as a

supplement. A concentrate from this mushroom, called maitake-D, is

promoted as a dietary supplement in the United States and Japan. The

beta-glucan compound found in the maitake is a great energy booster.

NUTRITION

Mushrooms are a low-calorie food that can be consumed cooked, raw,

or as a side dish to a main course. A small portion of mushrooms (3.5

ounces) contains a high supply of B vitamins, like B complex. Vitamin B

and Pentothal are comprised of essential minerals—selenium (37% DV)

and copper (25% DV)—and a generous supply (10‒19% DV) of

phosphorus and iron. Fat, saccharine, and calorie contents are low.

There are 27 calories in an average mushroom serving.

When exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light, natural ergosterols in mushrooms

produce the compoundVitamin D2. This method has also been artificially

implementedto grow vitamin D-producing mushrooms for the

pharmaceutical industry in particular. Scientists discovered that

exposure to UV rays also stimulates the production of viosterol.

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FACTS REGARDING TOXIC MUSHROOMS

Learning about toxic mushrooms is crucial if you would like to gather

and consume mushrooms from the wilderness. The results of consuming

poisonous wild mushroom vary from feeling faint to severe diarrhea and

even death. Yes, you can die from mistaking a poisonous mushroom

with an edible one. That said, mushroom searching is not the dangerous

experience that some would have you believe. Many of have safely

consumed wild mushrooms, but this came as a result of knowledge or

luck. Always identify the mushrooms correctly; if you’re not sure or in

doubt, stay away from them. If you find yourself in a survival scenario

and can’t pass on the opportunity of wild mushrooms, have only a little

taste at first then wait it out for 24 hours to see if there are any side

effects at all.

If you’re not keen on picking wild mushrooms yourself, that’s okay. But

truth be told, most of them are excellent and are both tasty and

nutritious. Going out and identifying mushrooms can be a fun experience

as some are really pleasing to the eye. Finding out how many of the

beautiful mushrooms are actually toxic will come as a shock!It’s almost

impossible to estimate with 100% precision the number of toxic species.

But if you have your heart set on mushroom identification, grab your

book and go out in the field and do it; there’s no better way. Some of the

most beautiful poisonous mushrooms that are widely spread are the

amanitasand the false morels. They are liable for the majority of the

mushroom poisoning-related deaths. Although the amanitas are easy to

distinguish (red caps with white dots), the false morels are harder to tell

apart from their edible counterparts.This is exactly why the identification

process should be as precise as possible.

FALSE MORELS

The term “false morel”covers many completely different species that are

usually mistaken as the edible delicacies within the Morchella genus,

which is true morels. Many false morels contain chemicals that are

poisonous, inducing vomiting, dizziness, and even death. However,

people from certain regions seem to be boiling them down and eating

them without any noticeable side effects. This may be due to certain

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resistant features in their genes, which in your case is most likely

missing, so don’t count on it.

I recommend avoiding the false morels altogether. Nobody is certain of

how toxic these fungi actually are,so just keep away from them. People

fall prey to their potent toxin every day because of the lack of knowledge

or because they listen to various legends about these mushrooms,

which get them killed. Most of these myths are inaccurate and don’t

have any scientific basis. Toavoid illness (or worse),don’t trust anybody’s

word when determining which mushrooms are safe unless it’s an expert

or an expert guide.

Below are some common samples of toxic mushroom “fairy tales.”

•“All white mushrooms are safe to eat!” – This is probably the most

common myth leading to mushroom-related illnesses and death. Not all

toxic mushrooms are brightly colored.

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• “Heating a toxic mushroom and stirring it with a metal spoon can

turn the spoon black!”– Some people believe (falsely) that the toxins

will blacken silver or inox once heated. This myth has been perpetuated

for a long time without any scientific basis. There is no known toxin that

blackens metal.

•“Any mushroom is safe to eat once completely cooked!” – This is

as false as it can possibly get. Fungus toxins won’t be neutralized by

heat; the poison molecule isthermostable.

• “Insects can tell toxic mushrooms apart from edible ones and will

avoid them!”– Not true! Simply because it’s poisonous to us doesn’t

mean it’s poisonous to insects too. Some nephrotoxic species, like the

death cap,will shelter insects and their larvae.

•“Poisonous mushrooms have a bad, bitter, or sour taste!” – The

truth is your taste buds won’t be able to tell the difference! Poisonous

mushrooms don’t necessarily taste bad, so taste is not a criterion for

differentiating mushrooms.

• “All toxic mushrooms have pointy caps!”– Yet again, this is a false

statement! The structural characteristic is not enough to determine the

levels of toxicity when it comes to mushrooms.

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CONCLUSION

Edible mushrooms are healthy, nutritious fungi with a nice flavor. There

are quite a few varieties of wild and cultivated mushrooms that you can

use fresh or dried for all sorts of nutritious meals. Foreign mushrooms,

such as maitake and shiitake, can be foundin stores dehydrated rather

than fresh. But white mushrooms, like button mushrooms and cup

mushrooms, are also available for purchase fresh. Fresh white

mushrooms have a short shelflife and degrade easily in the presence of

light, warmth, and moisture. Cautiously examine white mushrooms when

buying, before cooking, and before storing. Always verify whether they

are safe for consumption or not. Do everything by the book and always

consult an expert guide, and you’ll have the best stored mushrooms

imaginable.