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1 Birdquest: Serengeti & Ngorongoro 2010 SERENGETI & NGORONGORO 13 – 27 FEBRUARY 2010 TOUR REPORT LEADER: HANNU JÄNNES This year, after three years of drought, things were very different in northern Tanzania! Thanks to El Niño the winter rains late last year had been very heavy, and as a consequence during our very successful journey through the Serengeti, Ngorongoro and the rest of northern Tanzania, we enjoyed a lush green landscape full of bird and mammal activity. We managed to record 404 species of birds, including many interesting endemics and other regional specialities, during just thirteen days in the field. Notable amongst the birds were the Critically Endangered Beesley’s Lark, this time easy to find and seen very well, really stunning views of Schalow's and Hartlaub's Turacos, a group of Caspian Plovers (bird of the trip), all those displaying bustards in the Ngorongoro crater, the trio of spurfowls, stunning Rosy-breasted Longclaws, secretive Abyssinian Crimsonwings, several carcasses with gangs of hungry vultures, all the colourful sunbirds (12 species in total), and all the widowbirds and whydahs with their amazing tails. One of the most memorable avian spectacles, which we will remember for a long time, was the roost of twenty thousand White Storks and thousands of Abdim's Storks around Lake Ndutu. These avian delights were only half of the experience, as the amazing mammal show is such crucial part of this tour. We observed 41 species of mammals, which included such highlights as the spectacle of vast herds of gnus and other herbivores in eastern Serengeti, amazingly close encounters with many Lions, four Cheetahs and two Leopards, as well as the cute little Bat-eared Foxes, two Servals, the rarely seen Honeybadger, herds of massive African Elephants, very approachable and photogenic Giraffes, and at least nine different Rhinos. Our international group met at Kilimanjaro airport on a pleasantly warm late evening, and after passport formalities, sorting out a lost luggage, and a one hour drive, we reached our lovely lodge near Arusha, where some group members that had arrived earlier were waiting for us. Next morning we took an early breakfast followed by a whole day visit to Arusha National Park, where we began by birding some low elevation bush and grassland habitats, which were thronged with birds, all new and exciting for us, including Brown-breasted Barbet, many Speckled Mousebirds, White-eared Barbet, Cape Robin-Chat, Fan-tailed Grassbird, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Singing, Red-faced and Trilling Cisticolas, Tropical Boubous with their amazing song, Black-backed Puffback, Collared, Variable and Bronze Sunbirds, Yellow Bishop and a pair of Scaly Francolins that scurried cross the road. Later we headed for the cool, forested slopes of Mount Meru, where the absolute highlight was an amazing male leopard resting in a roadside tree showing brilliantly. This was amazing luck and a very good

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Page 1: TANZANIA (SERENGETI) REP 10 - Bird Tours - … (SERENGETI) REP 10...We managed to record 404 species of birds, ... birding some low elevation bush and grassland habitats, ... Serengeti

1 Birdquest: Serengeti & Ngorongoro 2010

SERENGETI & NGORONGORO

13 – 27 FEBRUARY 2010

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: HANNU JÄNNES This year, after three years of drought, things were very different in northern Tanzania! Thanks to El Niño the winter rains late last year had been very heavy, and as a consequence during our very successful journey through the Serengeti, Ngorongoro and the rest of northern Tanzania, we enjoyed a lush green landscape full of bird and mammal activity. We managed to record 404 species of birds, including many interesting endemics and other regional specialities, during just thirteen days in the field. Notable amongst the birds were the Critically Endangered Beesley’s Lark, this time easy to find and seen very well, really stunning views of Schalow's and Hartlaub's Turacos, a group of Caspian Plovers (bird of the trip), all those displaying bustards in the Ngorongoro crater, the trio of spurfowls, stunning Rosy-breasted Longclaws, secretive Abyssinian Crimsonwings, several carcasses with gangs of hungry vultures, all the colourful sunbirds (12 species in total), and all the widowbirds and whydahs with their amazing tails. One of the most memorable avian spectacles, which we will remember for a long time, was the roost of twenty thousand White Storks and thousands of Abdim's Storks around Lake Ndutu. These avian delights were only half of the experience, as the amazing mammal show is such crucial part of this tour. We observed 41 species of mammals, which included such highlights as the spectacle of vast herds of gnus and other herbivores in eastern Serengeti, amazingly close encounters with many Lions, four Cheetahs and two Leopards, as well as the cute little Bat-eared Foxes, two Servals, the rarely seen Honeybadger, herds of massive African Elephants, very approachable and photogenic Giraffes, and at least nine different Rhinos. Our international group met at Kilimanjaro airport on a pleasantly warm late evening, and after passport formalities, sorting out a lost luggage, and a one hour drive, we reached our lovely lodge near Arusha, where some group members that had arrived earlier were waiting for us. Next morning we took an early breakfast followed by a whole day visit to Arusha National Park, where we began by birding some low elevation bush and grassland habitats, which were thronged with birds, all new and exciting for us, including Brown-breasted Barbet, many Speckled Mousebirds, White-eared Barbet, Cape Robin-Chat, Fan-tailed Grassbird, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Singing, Red-faced and Trilling Cisticolas, Tropical Boubous with their amazing song, Black-backed Puffback, Collared, Variable and Bronze Sunbirds, Yellow Bishop and a pair of Scaly Francolins that scurried cross the road. Later we headed for the cool, forested slopes of Mount Meru, where the absolute highlight was an amazing male leopard resting in a roadside tree showing brilliantly. This was amazing luck and a very good

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observation in Arusha NP, where Leopard is rarely encountered by visitors due to dense forest cover. Other highlights included really great views of Hartlaub's Turaco, Scarce and Horus Swifts, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, several Black-headed Mountain and two Stripe-faced Greenbuls, White-starred Robin, Mountain Thrush, Brown Woodland Warblers, several Cinnamon Bracken Warblers and also Evergreen Forest Warblers, a notorious skulker that we only heard, many Montane White-eyes, Waller's Starlings, two Ayres's Hawk-Eagles, and, on the way down, two skulking Abyssinian Crimsonwings. In the late afternoon we paid a visit to the Mamello lakes, which were not very productive this year, but we scored, among other things, African Moustached Warbler and Little Bee-eater on the way. Arusha NP is also called 'Little Serengeti' thanks to its large numbers of mammals, which included Guereza Colobus, Olive Baboon, Sykes’s Monkey, Common Zebra, Common Warthog, Giraffe, African Buffalo, Bushbuck, Harvey's Duiker, Kirk's Dik-Dik and Waterbuck. The day was rounded off nicely at a feeder near our lodge, where two cute Greater Galagos, a new mammal for the list, came to eat bananas. The next morning saw us walking around the lovely gardens and the water way at Ngare Sero, where one of the first bird species we encountered was a family party of calling African Wood Owls, soon followed by a host of other species including noisy Hadada Ibises, two Little Grebes, a single Green-backed Heron, Great Egret, Hamerkop, four African Black Ducks, Common Moorhen, African Jacana, Olive Pigeon, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Mountain Wagtail for some of us, a noisy flock of Grey-olive Greenbuls, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, mighty Grosbeak Weavers building their nests in a reed bed, and the near-endemic Taveta Golden Weaver. Later, on the way to Lariboro plains, a stop at a service station for fuel, produced more Taveta Golden, and two Jackson's, Golden-backed Weavers. The Lariboro Plains were lush and green, and full of bird song. What a difference to last year, when the area was reminiscent of one big dust bowl devoid of life! Among the commoner pipits and larks we quickly located our main objective, the rare and extremely localized Beesley’s Lark, which only occurs here in a small area of northern Tanzania. This rather comical looking, short tailed and long billed lark was very co-operative, and offered great views and good photo ops. Other birds in this area included Common Ostrich, Montagu’s Harrier, Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Red-capped, Athi Short-toed , Short-tailed and Fisher's Sparrow Larks, Grassland Pipits, Isabelline and Capped Wheatears, Taita Fiscal, and a flock of Chestnut Weavers at a drinking pool. Later we headed for an area of Masai-Somali biome consisting of Acacia thorn-bush and Commiphora bushes, but unfortunately we were running out of time, and only managed a short walk in this productive birding area. Best birds here included two heard only Crested Bustards, Spotted Thick-knee, Black-throated Barbet, Foxy Lark, Barred Warbler, Grey Wren-warbler, Abyssinian White-eye, Superb and Wattled Starlings, which were remarkably common this year, and Pink-breasted Lark, a new bird for this itinerary. We reached the gate of Tarangire National Park late in the afternoon, and whilst rushing to reach our lodge after gate closing time, we cleaned-up on the two special birds of the area, Yellow-collared Lovebird and Ashy Starling, plus many other interesting birds, slowing us down so badly that we missed the latest arrival time by half an hour, much to the concern of our drivers. This year, due to overbooking, we stayed in different lodge than on earlier tours situated further inside the park. Our attempt to find certain habitat types and some of its typical inhabitants around the new lodge failed, and a visit to the familiar areas around the old lodge was not possible due to recent floods, which had destroyed all the bridges crossing the Tarangire river. Despite this the birding during our two nights stay was very enjoyable and produced a great selection of birds including, among other things, the only Black Stork of the trip, Knob-billed Duck, several Bateleurs, a few Steppe and one Wahlberg's Eagle, Martial Eagle, one Corncrake hiding among the grasses, which unfortunately showed only for the leader, our first of many handsome Two-banded Coursers, great views and photo ops of Speckled Pigeon, Brown and African Orange-bellied Parrots, good views of Yellow-collared Lovebirds, Marabou Stork, African White-backed Vulture, Gabar Goshawk, Crested and Hildebrandt's Francolins, Red-necked and Yellow-necked Spurfowls, Helmeted Guineafowls, White-bellied Go-away Bird, Black-faced Sandgrouse, African, Red-chested, Klaas's and Diederick Cuckoos, several fierce looking Pearl-spotted Owlets, Mottled Spinetails, Grey-headed, Woodland and Pied Kingfishers, Green

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Woodhoopoe, massive Southern Ground, Northern Red-billed, Von der Decken's and African Grey Hornbills, Spot-flanked, White-headed and Red-and-yellow Barbets, Greater Honeyguide, Black-lored and the only Northern Pied Babblers of the trip, the lovely and very vocal Spotted Morning Thrush singing right behind our cabins, gorgeous Silverbirds, several Upcher's Warblers, Isabelline Shrike, Long-tailed Fiscal, Black-hooded and the scarce African Golden Oriole, a large group of Blue-eared Starlings, Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, noisy colonies of White-headed Buffalo-Weavers, Rufous-tailed (a restricted range endemic), Speckle-fronted and Red-headed Weavers, Village Indigobird and the gorgeous Paradise Whydah. Mammals encountered included very good views of African Elephants, for which the park is famous, Black-backed Jackals, Dwarf and Banded Mongooses, Spotted Hyenas, a rather poor view of a pair of Lion, and very tame and photogenic Yellow-spotted Hyraxes in the lodge grounds. After Tarangire, on the way to Ngorongoro, we stopped at Lake Manyara NP, where we spent the afternoon. Some birding in the groundwater forest and in scrub near the visitor centre, produced, among other things, an adult African Crowned Eagle, Blue-naped Mousebird, three White-bellied Tits ( a write-in), Red-fronted Tinkerbirds, a few Grey-Olive Greenbuls and Ashy Flycatcher. The lake itself had fewer birds than I was expecting, apparently because many of them had dispersed elsewhere as there was more suitable wetland habitat available thanks to the big rains, but we still had a good selection of birds including 50 Pink-backed Pelicans, White-breasted Cormorants, a few Squacco Herons, the only Saddle-billed Stork of the trip, Glossy, Hadada and Sacred Ibises, White-faced Whistling Ducks, Eurasian Marsh Harriers, Water Thick-knees, hundreds of Collared Pratincoles, a hundred or so Blacksmith Plovers, a few Spur-winged Plovers, Kittlitz's and Three-banded Plover, a few Curlew Sandpipers and several Red-throated Pipits. We also counted 15 noisy Hippos in the pool and thirty or so African Buffalos nearby. Then it was time to wind our way up the steep western escarpment of the rift valley, where we stopped to admire the spectacular views including a pink mass of thousands of flamingos on the distant Lake Manyara. In the evening we spent some time at a stake-out for Mountain Nightjar, and managed to brief views of a single individual coming to our play-back. Next morning we took a stroll in the pleasant grounds of the Ngorongoro Farm House, where we logged a flock of noisy Black-headed Weavers around their breeding colony, an African Green Pigeon, our first Dusky Turtle Doves, Bronze Mannikins, Rüppell’s Robin Chats and East African Citril. Then we headed for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area stopping en route at a forest site where we had our first sighting of Moustached Green Tinkerbird, a pair of calling Schalow’s Turaco, which showed themselves very well after a time, Brown-headed Apalis, Grey-capped Warbler, Thick-billed Seedeater, Black and Grey Cuckoo-Shrikes and Grey-headed Negrofinch. After stopping on the rim to enjoy the spectacular view across the Ngorongoro Crater, from where we saw very distant Rhinos, we continued our journey to a rim forest for a picnic lunch and some very good birds including Brown Parisoma, the impressive Malachite, Bronze, Tacazze and Golden-winged Sunbirds, and the smaller Variable Sunbirds. During the day we also checked some high altitude grasslands dotted with Masai villages, which produced a loose group of Jackson’s Widowbirds giving their strange communal display, slightly more restrained Red-collared Widowbirds, Yellow-headed Wagtail, Yellow-crowned Canaries, several Whinchats and many African Stonechats. Our full day at the wonderful Ngorongoro Crater, the wildlife Mecca of Africa, was as enjoyable as ever. Several new birds, including Lyne's Cisticola, Long-billed Pipit, Nyanza Swift, Schalow’s Wheatear, Northern Anteater Chat and Black-crowned Tchagra were already logged in before we had even reached the bottom of the mighty caldera. Mammals, which are so prominent feature of this beautiful area, seen during the day included Olive Baboons, Vervet Monkeys, many Red-fronted (Thomson’s) and Grant’s Gazelles, 50 or so Elands, Kongonis (not the most graceful ungulate in the world!), a large herd of African Buffalos, Common Zebras, Giraffes and Common Warthogs, two rather close Browse Rhinoceros, mighty Elephants with their huge tusks (only male elephants live inside the crater), Hippos, a total of nine Lions with some good views, and Common Jackals. Spotted Hyenas were also a prominent feature of the day, and we had great opportunity to watch one taking,

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seemingly very effortlessly, a baby Wildebeest. It was fast and easy, just like visiting McDonalds! Birds were also well represented, and perhaps the most memorable encounters were with 12 Kori, two Black-bellied Bustards and several Grey Crowned Cranes. Supporting cast of interesting birds included a pink mass of 5000 Lesser Flamingo, and one Greater Flamingo, four species of harrier, including two African Marsh Harriers, our first Long-crested Eagle, the only Long-toed Plovers of the trip, gorgeous Rosy-breasted Longclaws, Lesser Swamp Warbler, our first Pectoral-patch Cisticolas, which were common, half a dozen Yellow Bishops and 40 Fan-tailed Widowbirds. In the evening Uli and David scoped from the balcony of their hotel room more Rhinos bringing today's total up to nine! The next morning began with a short birding session in the gardens of our hotel on the rim of the crater with lovely views of Tacazze and Eastern Double-collared Sunbirds, Mountain Thrush and Thick-billed Seedeater. We reached the Naabi Gate of Serengeti rather early, only stopping on the way for some more obvious target birds like the stunning Straw-tailed Whydah (four were seen), our first Secretary Bird, some Chestnut-bellied and 80 or so Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Blue-naped Mousebird, many Northern and Capped Wheatears and a small flock of Cape Rooks. At Naabi gate, we had a short walk to the top of a small hill, from where we had great view over the Serengeti plains, which, to the west, was thronged with a huge mass of foraging Wildebeests, which we estimated to be a few hundred thousand head strong. Rest of the day was spent, with many stops and a lunch break, on the long grass plains along the approach road to central Serengeti. One of the target birds here was the black cotton soil specialist White-tailed Lark which was seen rather well both on the deck and in song flight. In addition interesting new birds included a group of 30 Cardinal Queleas, five rather elusive Parasitic Weavers, a handful of African Quail-Finches and two Croaking Cisticolas. Best mammals of the day were two Servals including some really nice views, and a Bohor Reedbuck, another new mammal for the list. At four pm we were hit by a heavy rain storm, which forced us to head directly to our lodge. In the evening in our resort, when coming back from the restaurant building, a watchman showed us a nest of an Spotted Eagle Owl on a window sill of one of the cabins, where the female was staring us angrily. Later during our stay we encountered the same bird in broad daylight too. Our full day in the Serengeti proper started with an early breakfast, after which we headed out for the whole day. Our original aim was to drive pretty much directly to the rather distant Niaboro Hills, but it was very difficult to leave behind the bird rich bush country and grasslands around us, and we quickly decided that we were better off concentrating on the nearer areas around the park HQ, the adjacent river system, and some of the plains, leaving the distant hills for the following day. The acacia forest near our lodge held plenty of birds, including several new species for us like Fisher's Lovebird, Levaillant's Cuckoo, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Tanzanian (or Ruaha) Red-billed Hornbill, Usambiro Barbet, Nubian Woodpecker, Arrow-marked Babbler, Red-throated Tit, Rüppell's Long-tailed Starling, Marico Sunbird and, perhaps best of all, five Steel-blue Whydahs, which were positively common this year. Soon after leaving the acacia forest behind us, we reached a large grassy plain where an alarmed Rattling Cisticola on top of a small bush drew our attention, and we quickly realised that there was a leopard resting among grasses right next to our vehicle! It woke up and offered great photo ops, at least for the first vehicle, before moving under another small bush to sleep again. When we left 10 minutes later, there were already several cars, told by our drivers, coming towards the leopard spot, as this species had been difficult to find during the last couple of days, and indeed was the only Leopard spotted during that day. Other birds seen during the day included Swahili and Rufous Sparrows, Grey-capped Social Weavers, Speckle-fronted Weavers, Blue-capped Gordon-bleus, Black-faced Waxbills, our first Woolly-necked Stork and African Fish Eagle, Pygmy Falcons, Lesser Kestrels, White-bellied Bustard, first of the very few Little Stints encountered on this year's tour, Marsh Sandpiper, Striped Kingfishers, four Plain-backed Pipits, two Yellow-throated Longclaws, an Icterine Warbler, Rufous-tailed (or Turkestan) Shrike and Grey-backed Fiscals. We were also entertained by 40 Hippopotamus in a roadside pool, and two tree-climbing Lions. The following morning, after a healthy breakfast and a photo session at an active colony of Lesser Masked Weavers and other with garden birds in the lodge grounds, saw us speeding towards Niaboro

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Hills. On arrival we worked along a stretch of roadside forest, where a group of Grey-crested Helmet-Shrikes, a restricted range EA endemic has been seen from time to time. Instead of the helmet-shrikes, we scored a very good calling Coqui Francolin right next to our vehicle, before we had enough of the tsetse flies, and moved on to a nearby hotel for some refreshments. During the day we searched unsuccessfully for Hartlaub's Bustard, but we did find a total of five Black-bellied and one White-bellied Bustard! Other goodies seen during the first part of the day included Chestnut Sparrow, Black Crake, our first Hooded Vultures, Black-chested Snake Eagle, two Pygmy Falcons, a hundred or so Lesser Kestrels, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Black Coucal, Mosque Swallow and Fan-tailed Grassbird. A break at the information centre, which has an excellent exhibition about the Serengeti ecosystem, produced a couple of White-browed Robin-Chats, and again great photo opportunities of many passerines frequenting the picnic area. Later we drove to Ndutu via Naabi gate, and noted that the mass of Wildebeests had shifted to another side of the plains. Soon after Naabi we spotted a rather distant Cheetah, which unfortunately disappeared pretty quickly. Soon afterwards another mammal highlight was waiting for us in the form of a Ratel (Honey Badger), which was moving on the short grass plains and showing well. This strange looking animal is seldom seen during daytime due to its nocturnal habits. Other delights around Ndutu included six Kori Bustards, Chestnut-banded Plover, 100 Greater Flamingos and a very impressive gathering of 10 000 White and 2 000 Abdim's Storks on the shores of Lake Ndutu. Instead of staying at the Ndutu Lodge we were accommodated in a tented luxury camp nearby, which was very pleasant and well managed. The great advantage of sleeping in a tent is that you hear the wonderful and mysterious sounds of the African night so clearly, although some of the people staying on the other side of the camp, who were kept awake for the whole night by a herd of grazing Buffalos, which from time to time walked straight into to the supporting ropes of their tents, may disagree! During our stay in Ndutu we spent two full days searching various parts of the surrounding plains and acacia forest and one day in the Nasera Rock area. One of the main aims at Ndutu was to obtain better views of Cheetah, which we managed on our first day. Our first encounter with Cheetah was pretty brief as the lone female didn't really like the tourists and ran, but while searching for her we spotted a group of nine Caspian Plovers, which was a much needed bird for several participants, and was later elected as the bird of the trip. Later during the same morning we found a group of three Cheetahs resting which were much more cooperative. This band of brothers was the same that we have seen on earlier Birdquest trips to Ndutu. As if this wasn't enough we encountered the lone female again two days later, when she was far more co-operative and allowed great views and good photo opportunities. Other good mammal sightings in Ndutu area included a group of ten cute Bat-eared Foxes, good numbers of lions, including a family party of 15, and Steinbuck. Bird wise the greatest spectacle here was the stork roost on the shores of the Lake Ndutu, where we estimated a maximum of 20 000 White and 5000 Abdim's Storks gathering together every evening. A supporting cast of interesting birds included African Spoonbill, African Harrier-Hawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, African Hawk-Eagle, a few Black-winged Plovers, African Wattled Plover for some, heard only Slender-tailed Nightjar, Pied Wheatear and Desert Cisticola. Another, this time man-made, spectacle took place when we were heading back for lunch one day, and one of our vehicles got stuck in the mud at Big Marsh. The second vehicle hurried to help, and during a pretty hopeless looking rescue attempt, also became stuck deep in the mud! Soon after this the driver of the first vehicle realised that he could actually drive his car from the mud on his own, but now the second vehicle was so deep in the mud, that it took three hours, many more or less well planned attempts, three or four vehicles, lots of shouting and countless onlookers to get it out! Our visit to the impressive Nasera Rock situated about 70kms east of Ndutu produced Egyptian Vulture, a pair of Greater Kestrels in their usual tree, a family party of Common Kestrels of the local subspecies rufescens (a future split?), three Rufous-crowned Rollers, some Yellow-bellied Eremomelas, Yellow-spotted Petronia and large group of vultures including 150 Rüppell’s Griffon Vultures and smaller numbers of Lappet-faced, African White-backed and Hooded Vultures on a couple of carcasses. In addition a large number (30) of Spotted Hyenas were noted.

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Our last day in Tanzania was mostly a travelling day intercepted with some birding and sightseeing. The most remarkable experience of the day was early on when we met thousands of wandering Wildebeests crossing lake Ndutu in long lines, giving us a feel what it is like when all the one million or so animals living on these plains decide to move on to greener pastures. During our drive through the short grass plains near Ndutu we stopped at a flock of 250 Black-winged Plovers, some Yellow-throated and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse and a very close and photogenic Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk. At Olduvai gorge (or Oldupai, as it should be called, as it sounds much closer to the sound of the word the Masai use when referring to the lance-leaved wild sisal or mother-in-laws's tongue: Sansevieria ehrenbergiana after which the gorge is named) we enjoyed a short, but productive walk, which brought us three new birds: Rufous Chatterer, two Iranias, including a male that showed very well, and Southern Grosbeak Canary. Then we paid a short visit to the interesting Leakey museum, which has plenty of information about the excavations in Oldupai area. Later we retraced our steps through the wonderful Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and had two hour break at the idyllic Gibb's farm, where we enjoyed a nice lunch and stroll in the lush gardens, where Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Cardinal Woodpecker, many Bronze Sunbirds, a lone male Grosbeak Weaver displaying at its nest, and a breeding pair of African Paradise Flycatchers were seen. Then we drove to the Kilimanjaro International Airport admiring the partial views of the mighty Mt Kilimanjaro in the diminishing evening light. At the airport we had enough time for the final log call, and simple dinner before it was time to say goodbye to Tanzania and its great wildlife.

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SYSTEMATIC LIST Species heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). STRUTHIONIDAE Common Ostrich Struthio camelus: This enormous bird was common and easy to see on both the

plains and in bush country. PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Two with a nest at Ngare Sero. PELECANIDAE Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens: 50 at Lake Manyara, and ten on the way to Arusha on our

last day. PHALACROCORACIDAE White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus: Three at Lake Manyara and one on the way to

Ndutu. The form concerned is usually lumped in Great Cormorant P. carbo. ARDEIDAE Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Commonly encountered throughout. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: Three at Lake Manyara, one in the Serengeti, and one in the Ndutu

area. Green-backed Heron Butorides striata: One well seen bird at Ngare Sero and one in the Serengeti. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: One at Ngare Sero and one at Ndutu. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Scattered records of small numbers. Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala: Good numbers seen throughout. SCOPIDAE Hamerkop Scopus umbretta: Scattered records of small numbers. CICONIIDAE White Stork Ciconia ciconia: This Palearctic migrants was recorded in good numbers in the Ndutu

area where we witnessed an amazing sight of an estimated 20 000 birds roosting on the shores of Lake Ndutu with thousands of Abdim's Storks. In addition smaller numbers were noted elsewhere.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra: A single individual at Tarangire. Abdim’s Stork Ciconia abdimii: This intra-tropical trans-equatorial migrant was noted on nine days

including an unforgettable sight of estimated 5000 individuals roosting with White Storks at Lake Ndutu.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: One in the Serengeti and another one at Lake Masek in Ndutu.

Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis: One of these giants at Lake Manyara. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus: Widespread sightings at Tanzania’s garbage disposal unit. African Open-billed Stork Anastomus lamelligerus: One near Arusha. Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis: Noted on four days including 200 in the Lake Manyara area. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus: Small numbers were noted on eight days. Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash: Rather common in the Arusha area. In addition singletons were

noted at Lake Manyara and on the way to Ngorongoro, and two were seen on the way to Arusha on our last day. The name is an onomatopoeic rendering of the call.

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Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: 10 at Lake Manyara. African Spoonbill Platalea alba: One in the Ndutu area. PHOENICOPTERIDAE Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus: A singleton in the crater, and up to 100 in the Ndutu area

on four days. Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor: 5000 or so in the crater and 40 at Ndutu. In addition a pink

mass of about 10,000 unidentified flamingos was noted at Lake Manyara. Hundreds of thousands breed at nearby Lake Natron although it is classified as ‘Near-Threatened’ in Threatened Birds of the World. The world population is estimated at some 5,000,000 birds and there are only three main breeding sites all situated in East Africa.

ANATIDAE White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata: Eight at Lake Manyara. Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis: One at Arusha, six at Lake Manyara and ten in the

crater. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus: Relatively common and widespread bird. Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos: One was seen at Tarangire and 15 were at Lake Manyara. African Black Duck Anas sparsa: Four at Ngare Sero. Cape Teal Anas capensis: Two in the crater, and up to 15 in the Ndutu area. Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha: One in the crater, and a total of 12 in the Serengeti. Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota: Two were seen in the crater. SAGITTARIIDAE Secretary Bird Sagittarius serpentarius: Two in the Serengeti and three in the Ndutu area, including

some really good close-up views of this elegant bird. The name is thought to derive either from the quill of feathers that protrude out from the back of the head or, perhaps more likely, from a Francophone corruption of the Arabic name saqr et-tair meaning 'hunter-bird'.

ACCIPITRIDAE Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: Scattered sightings of a total of six birds. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius: Small numbers were noted almost daily between Arusha and

Ngorongoro. This form is often lumped in Black Kite M. migrans. However, recent genetic evidence shows that the aegyptius/parasitus forms are more closely related to Red Kite M. milvus and may prove to merit further division between northern and southern populations.

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: One adult at Nasera Rock. This is scarce bird in northern Tanzania.

Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus: Two at Naabi gate, and up to 30 daily in the Ndutu area. African White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus: Widespread and common. Rüppell’s Griffon Vulture Gyps rueppellii: 150 or so were seen on carcasses on the way to Nasera

Rock, but only singletons were noted elsewhere. Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus: This enormous vulture was quite numerous in the Serengeti,

where up to 10 were noted in a day. In addition a couple of individuals were seen in Tarangire, and in the crater. This species is classed as ‘Vulnerable’ in Threatened Birds of the World with a total population of less than 8,500 individuals, the species being threatened by accidental poisoning and deliberate persecution.

White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis: One pair at Naabi gate, and singletons in the Serengeti and in the Ndutu area.

Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis: One in the Serengeti, and two in the Ndutu area. Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus: Two sightings; one between Tarangire and Ngorongoro Farm

House and one at Nasera Rock.

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Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus: This stunning eagle was regularly encountered throughout. The name means ‘juggler’ in French and refers to the balancing mode of flight employed by this spectacular bird!

African Harrier Hawk Polyboroides typus: A total of three birds in the Ndutu area. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: Small numbers were noted daily in the Serengeti and at Ndutu. Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus: Small numbers were noted daily in the Serengeti and at Ndutu.

In addition two were seen at Lariboro plains. African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus: Two in the crater were a nice surprise. Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Widespread sightings of small numbers of this Palearctic

migrant. Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar: One in Tarangire, and another one at Lake Masek in Ndutu. Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates: Two were seen in the Serengeti. Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus: One at Lariboro Plains, one on the way to

Nasera Rock, and third one on the way to Oldupai on our last day. African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro: One at Ngare Sero. Steppe (Common) Buzzard Buteo (buteo) vulpinus: Scattered records of small numbers of these

Palearctic migrants. All sightings referred to the distinctive vulpinus form of Common Buzzard that some taxonomists argue is worthy of full specific status.

Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus (H): One was heard calling on the slopes of Mount Meru in exactly the same spot where I had seen and heard a family party of this species few days earlier.

Augur Buzzard Buteo augur: A familiar and distinctive raptor seen throughout the tour. African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer: One in the Serengeti and one at Ndutu. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax: Most of the larger eagles we encountered were of this species. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: A total of eight, all in the Serengeti-Ndutu areas. Wahlberg’s Eagle Aquila wahlbergi: One singleton in Tarangire. African Hawk Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster: One in Ndutu. Ayres’s Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus ayresii: Two in flight in Arusha NP. Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis: A total of seven individuals were noted. African Crowned Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus: Our only sighting of this powerful eagle was at

Lake Manyara. In addition one displaying bird was heard in Arusha NP. Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus: Scattered records of a total of six individuals. FALCONIDAE Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus: A number of good sightings of this fierce-looking little falcon

were obtained in the Serengeti and Ndutu areas. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: One on the way to Ngorongoro Farm House. Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides: Two, with some really great views, on the way to Nasera Rock. Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus: One in Tarangire. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni: This handsome species was noted in good numbers in the Serengeti

and around Ndutu. The species has been in rapid decline since 1950 and it is now classed as ‘Near-threatened’ in Threatened Birds of the World. The estimated world population of 20,000 pairs is primarily threatened by habitat loss on the breeding grounds.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: One at Lake Manyara and six at Nasera Rock. Subspecies involved is the locally breeding rufescens.

PHASIANIDAE Common Quail Coturnix coturnix (H): Two birds were heard only on the crater rim. These

presumably would be resident birds of the race erlangeri rather than migrants from the Palearctic.

Coqui Francolin Francolinus coqui: This attractive francolin was seen well in the Serengeti, and near Ndutu. A proposed reorganisation of the genus Francolinus now places this species in Peliperdix.

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Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena: Common and easy to see in Tarangire. In addition one bird was seen in the Serengeti. A proposed reorganisation of the genus Francolinus now places this species in Peliperdix.

Scaly Francolin Francolinus squamatus: Two were seen crossing the road in Arusha NP. Hildebrandt’s Francolin Francolinus hildebrandti: Small numbers of this restricted range francolin

were seen at Tarangire, and in the Ngorongoro area. Red-necked Spurfowl Francolinus afer: Common and easy to see in Tarangire. A proposed

reorganisation of the genus Francolinus now places this species in Pternistis. Yellow-necked Spurfowl Francolinus leucoscepus: Very common and easy to see in Tarangire. A

proposed reorganisation of the genus Francolinus now places this species in Pternistis. Grey-breasted Spurfowl Francolinus rufopictus: This francolin, endemic to Tanzania, was easy to see

in the Ndutu area and in the Serengeti. A proposed reorganisation of the genus Francolinus now places this species in Pternistis.

NUMIDIDAE [This family is sometimes lumped in Phasianidae] Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris: Commonly seen throughout. The species has been divided

into several species in the past and therefore may well be again. Our birds belonged to part of the mitrata or ‘Tufted’ Guineafowl group.

RALLIDAE Corncrake Crex crex: One bird was seen hiding in dense grass in Tarangire by the leader only. Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris: A total of three at the Hippo pool in the Serengeti. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Two at Ngare Sero and one in the Serengeti. GRUIDAE Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum: This handsome bird was common in the crater and in the

Serengeti, where we also noted a pair with three chicks. A scattered few were encountered elsewhere.

OTIDIDAE Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori: Wonderful views of these huge birds, sometimes displaying, at

Ngorongoro. In addition several birds were seen around Ndutu. Crested Bustard (Buff-crested B) Eupodotis gindiana (H): Two birds were heard giving their distinctive

call near Lariboro Plains, but unfortunately we were not able to see them in the dense bush country.

White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis: One in the Serengeti and a total of five around Ndutu. Black-bellied Bustard Eupodotis melanogaster: Two males in the crater and a total of eight in the

Serengeti with some great photo ops. JACANIDAE African Jacana Actophilornis africanus: Two at Ngare Sero, one at Lake Manyara and one in the

crater. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: Ten on the way to Arusha on our last day. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Small numbers seen in suitable habitat. BURHINIDAE Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus: Two at Lake Manyara. Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis: One at Lariboro, and two in the Ndutu area.

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GLAREOLIDAE Two-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus: Common, and easy to see in suitable habitat, in the

Serengeti and around Ndutu. In addition two at Tarangire. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola: 200 or so at Lake Manyara, 300 on the way to Ngorongoro

Farm House and 50 near Ndutu. CHARADRIIDAE Long-toed Plover Vanellus crassirostris: Two of this handsome lapwing seen in the crater. Blacksmith Plover Vanellus armatus: This common bird was seen in appropriate habitat throughout. Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus: Four at Lake Manyara, a regular locality for it. Black-winged Plover Vanellus melanopterus: 250 on the short grass plains around Ndutu on our last

day. In addition five were noted there few days earlier. Crowned Plover Vanellus coronatus: Widespread, and often common, from the Lariboro Plains to

Serengeti, with up to 100 in a day. African Wattled Plover Vanellus senegallus (NL): One of these strange looking birds seen at Ndutu by

the second vehicle only. Kittlitz’s Plover Charadrius pecuarius: Scattered records of small numbers. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris: Scattered records of small numbers. Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus: A singleton near Ndutu. Caspian Plover Charadrius asiaticus: A flock of nine was discovered in the heat of the Cheetah chase

in the plains near Ndutu. Bird of the trip! SCOLOPACIDAE Little Stint Calidris minuta: Much smaller numbers of this Palearctic migrant were seen than normally;

a singleton in the Serengeti and ten around Ndutu. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Two of this Palearctic migrant found at Lake Manyara. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Widespread in small numbers. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Two at Lake Manyara, and a total of three in the Serengeti. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Small numbers of this Palearctic migrant seen in appropriate

habitat in the Ndutu and Serengeti areas. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Small numbers were noted. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Scattered few were noted. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Small numbers were seen throughout. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Scattered records of small numbers. LARIDAE Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus: 20 at Lake Manyara. STERNIDAE [This family is sometimes lumped in Laridae] Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica: Small numbers were noted at Lake Manyara, in the crater and at

Ndutu. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Gelochelidon. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Two at Lake Manyara and ten in the crater. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: Two in the crater and ten around Ndutu. PTEROCLIDAE Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus: Six near Naabi gate in the Serengeti, 15 on the way

to Nasera Rock and 20 on the short grass plains near Ndutu on our last morning. Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decoratus: A total of four in Tarangire and two in the Serengeti. A

much poorer showing than normally. Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis: 80 on the way to Serengeti, 100 or so on the way to

Nasera Rock and 50 near Ndutu on our last morning.

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COLUMBIDAE African Green Pigeon Treron calva: Only a handful of birds were noted. Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria (H): Four birds were heard in the Arusha area, and one near

Lake Manyara. Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos: Scattered records of ones and twos. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis: Scattered records of small numbers. Olive Pigeon Columba arquatrix: Relatively common at Ngare Sero and in the Ngorongoro area. Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea: Small numbers were noted. Feral Pigeon Columba livia: Descended from the Rock Dove, we saw small numbers of feral or ‘table’

birds in three places only. Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata: Fairly common from Arusha area to Ngorongoro. African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens: Rather common in drier areas from Tarangire to

Ndutu. Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola: The most common and widespread dove. Dusky Turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens: Common at Ngorongoro. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis: Widespread. PSITTACIDAE Brown Parrot Poicephalus meyeri: Seven in Tarangire and a total of nine in the Serengeti. African Orange-bellied Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris: Seen daily in Tarangire. Fischer’s Lovebird Agapornis fischeri: This attractive endemic was abundant and easy to see in the

Serengeti and around Ndutu. This is a Tanzanian endemic in terms of natural occurrence but there is a feral population in Kenya and the species has appeared (probably by introduction) in Rwanda and Burundi since ca1970. It is classed as ‘Near threatened’ in Threatened Birds of the World and the species has the dubious distinction of being the most commonly traded wild bird in the world!

Yellow-collared Lovebird Agapornis personatus: This other endemic lovebird was numerous and just as easy to see in Tarangire. Another Tanzanian endemic in terms of natural occurrence, but again there is a sizeable feral population in Kenya (where it hybridises freely with Fisher’s Lovebird, although this has never happened in the wild population). Some taxonomists consider these two species are in fact merely colour morphs of a larger species that contains Lilian’s Lovebird A. liliane and Black-cheeked Lovebird A. nigrigenis.

MUSOPHAGIDAE Schalow’s Turaco Tauraco schalowi: We had a total of four (plus three heard only birds), including

some really great, prolonged views in the crater rim forests. Stunning bird. Hartlaub’s Turaco Tauraco hartlaubi: Great views of two birds in Arusha National Park. In addition

four more birds were heard there. Bare-faced Go-away Bird Corythaixoides personatus: Good numbers of this attractive bird were seen

in Tarangire and in central Serengeti. The name refers to an onomatopoeic rendering of a call made by some members of the genus.

White-bellied Go-away Bird Corythaixoides leucogaster: Fairly common at Tarangire, where we obtained excellent views. Also two on the way to Arusha on our last day.

CUCULIDAE Black-and-white Cuckoo Oxylophus jacobinus: A total of ten including eight at Lake Masek near

Ndutu in one morning. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Clamator. Levaillant's Cuckoo Oxylophus levaillantii: Two in the Serengeti. Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius: Small numbers in the Serengeti and Ndutu areas. The

species parasites Pied Crow and starlings. Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius (H): Heard almost daily between Arusha and the Serengeti.

The species parasites robin chats, scrub robins and Spotted Morning Thrush.

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African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis: Although brief views of ‘grey’ cuckoos had to remain unidentified we managed to visually identify three individuals at Tarangire. In addition five birds were heard at Ndutu. This species parasites Common Drongo.

African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus: One was heard at Gibb's Farm on our last day. Klaas’s Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas: One was seen in Tarangire and two in the Serengeti. In addition

small numbers of birds were heard only. The species parasites warblers, sunbirds and other small passerines.

Diederik Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius: Rather common and widespread. The name has a number of alternative spellings and is an onomatopoeic rendering of the call. The species is known to mainly parasite weavers.

CENTROPIDIDAE [This family is often lumped in Cuculidae] White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus: The ‘water-bottle’ bird was observed in small

numbers in Tarangire, in the crater, and in the Serengeti. Black Coucal Centropus grillii: One was seen in the Serengeti, and another one at Ndutu. STRIGIDAE Spotted Eagle Owl Bubo africanus: A nest with female and two small chicks inside the lodge

compound in the Serengeti provided some great views. Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum: We had great multiple views of this fierce looking owl in

Tarangire. In addition two birds were heard in the Serengeti and at Ndutu. African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii: A family party including male, female and at least one fledged

chick were seen (and heard) well at Ngare Sero. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Ciccaba.

CAPRIMULGIDAE Montane Nightjar Caprimulgus poliocephalus: One was seen at Ngorongoro Farm House. Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus (H): One bird was heard from our camp at Ndutu. APODIDAE Mottled Spinetail Telacanthura ussheri: A total of six in Tarangire. Scarce Swift Schoutedenapus myoptilus: Two were seen at Arusha NP. African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus: Scattered records of small numbers. Eurasian Swift Apus apus: Rather common and widespread. Nyanza Swift Apus niansae: Four in the crater. Mottled Swift Apus aequatorialis: A total of 30 in the Arusha area. White-rumped Swift Apus caffer: Small numbers were noted at Lake Manyara, in the crater and in

the Serengeti. Horus Swift Apus horus: Four were seen in Arusha National Park, and four more were noted on the

way to Lariboro plains.. Little Swift Apus affinis: Reasonable numbers in Tarangire and in the Serengeti. COLIIDAE Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus: These strange birds were widespread and locally fairly common.

They belong to the Coliiformes, the only order that is endemic to the Afrotropics. Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus: Singletons at Lake Manyara, in the acacia scrub on the

way to Serengeti, at Nasera Rock and near Ndutu. ALCEDINIDAE [Sibley and Monroe place the Halcyon kingfishers in the family, Halcyonidae and the Megaceryle and Ceryle kingfishers in the family, Cerylidae.] Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala: Also known as Chestnut-bellied Kingfisher, we saw

two individuals at Tarangire.

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Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris: Two individuals at Ngare Sero, the species is here at the northern edge of its range.

Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis: Scattered records of small numbers. Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti: A few in central Serengeti. Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata: Just two were seen, one in the crater and one in the Serengeti. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Three at Tarangire and two at Lake Manyara. MEROPIDAE Eurasian Bee-eater Merops apiaster: Small numbers of these Palearctic migrants seen in Tarangire, at

Lake Manyara, and in the Serengeti. Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus: Widespread in small numbers. Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates: One in Arusha NP, and three individuals in three

different sites along the crater rim. CORACIIDAE Eurasian Roller Coracias garrulus: Rather common in the Ndutu area. Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata: This stunning roller was a familiar and common species seen

from the Tarangire area onwards. Rufous-crowned Roller Coracias naevia: Three on the way to Nasera Rock. UPUPIDAE African Hoopoe Upupa africana: Scattered records of small numbers of this, the most colourful

version, of a widespread species complex. PHOENICULIDAE [Sibley & Monroe place the genus Rhinopomastus in a separate family Rhinopomastidae.] Green Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus: Small groups, always on the move, were noted at

Tarangire and in the Serengeti. Abyssinian Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus minor: Small numbers were recorded in the Serengeti and at

Ndutu. BUCEROTIDAE [Sibley & Monroe place the genus Bucorvus in a separate family Bucorvidae.] Southern Ground Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri: Small numbers, with some stunning views, of these

huge, bizarre, and rather prehistoric-looking creatures, in Tarangire and at Lake Manyara. Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus: This form was common in Tarangire. In

addition one was noted at Ndutu. The taxonomy of this species is currently under review and as many as five different species have been proposed.

Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill Tockus ruahae: Small numbers were encountered in central Serengeti. Also known as Ruaha Hornbill this recently split endemic has recently been discovered to occur here. Ruaha is the name of the second largest national park in Tanzania.

Von der Decken’s Hornbill Tockus deckeni: Small numbers were seen in Tarangire, Ndutu and the Serengeti.

Crowned Hornbill Tockus alboterminatus: One near Arusha on the way to Lariboro plains. African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus: Small numbers were encountered in Tarangire and in central

Serengeti. Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Bycanistes brevis: Rather common in the Arusha region. In addition four

were noted at Lake Manyara. CAPITONIDAE [Sibley and Monroe split the African barbets into their own family Lybiidae.] White-eared Barbet Stactolaema leucotis: Small numbers were seen in the Arusha area.

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Moustached Green Tinkerbird Pogoniulus leucomystax: One was seen at Lodoare gate on the way to Ngorongoro. In addition two were heard in Arusha NP, but we failed to make visual contact with them.

Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus: Two were seen at Lake Manyara and in the Serengeti, and a singleton was at Nasera Rock. In addition some calling birds were heard.

Red-fronted Barbet Tricholaema diademata: One at Naabi Gate, and one on the way to Nasera Rock. Spot-flanked Barbet Tricholaema lachrymosa: Two at Tarangire. Black-throated Barbet Tricholaema melanocephala (H): One was heard only in the acacia scrub near

Lariboro Plains. White-headed Barbet Lybius leucocephalus: One in Tarangire, and another one on the way to Nasera

Rock. Brown-breasted Barbet Lybius melanopterus: Two of these impressive birds seen in the Arusha area. Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus: Three in Tarangire, including some great

views, and a singleton near Lake Manyara. Usambiro Barbet Trachyphonus usambiro: Great views of some very photogenic individuals in the

central Serengeti and at Ndutu. INDICATORIDAE Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator: One was seen in Tarangire, and another one in Ndutu. In

addition three more birds were heard only. Wahlberg's/Eastern Honeybird Prodotiscus regulus/zambesiae: One was seen very briefly at Lodoare

gate. PICIDAE Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica: A total of five birds were seen in Tarangire and the

Serengeti. Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens: Scattered records of small numbers. African Grey-headed Woodpecker Dendropicos spodocephalus: Scattered records of small numbers. ALAUDIDAE White-tailed Lark Mirafra albicaudata: In the Serengeti one singing bird responded well to our tape,

and showed well on the ground. In addition two more birds were heard in the same general area.

Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana: Widespread and often common. Foxy Lark Mirafra alopex: Singletons on Lariboro Plains, Tarangire, in the Serengeti and at Nasera

Rock. The form concerned was previously lumped in Fawn-coloured Lark M. africanoides. Pink-breasted Lark Mirafra poecilosterna: Two singing birds in the acacia scrub near Lariboro Plains.

A write-in. Beesley’s Lark Chersomanes beesleyi: Great close-up views of a single individual of this delightful

short-tailed lark on the Lariboro Plains. This extremely localized form, known only from this small area, was formerly lumped with Spike-heeled Lark C. albofasciata of southern Africa, and there is still some controversy about its taxonomic status. Birdlife International is currently lumping it with Spike-heeled Lark, whereas IOC World Bird List treats it as a separate species! With a population of only some 45 individuals it is surely the rarest bird in all of East Africa, and Critically Endangered.

Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea: This attractive lark was encountered on Lariboro Plains, in the crater and the Ndutu area.

Athi Short-toed Lark Calandrella athensis: Small numbers of this rather drab species seen on Lariboro Plains, and on short grass plains around Ndutu. It is often lumped with Somali Short-toed Lark C. somalica. The name refers to a river that rises near Nairobi in Kenya.

Short-tailed Lark Pseudalaemon fremantlii: Four, including some great views, on Lariboro Plains. Fischer’s Sparrow Lark Eremopterix leucopareia: This species was abundant on the open plains.

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MOTACILLIDAE African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp: Scattered records of small numbers. Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara (NL): One at Ngare Sero. Sykes’s Wagtail Motacilla [flava] beema: One at Lake Manyara and one in the crater. The various

forms that make up the ‘Yellow Wagtail complex’ have always been the subject of much debate. Latest taxonomic decisions based on the phylogenetic species concept re-split some races into full species.

Yellow-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] lutea: One in the grasslands on the crater rim. In addition tens of unidentified 'yellow wagtails' were sighted.

Grassland Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus: Common and widespread. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis: One along the descent road down to the crater. There is some

uncertainty about the different forms occurring in the East African highlands, and more than one species could be involved.

Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys: Four in the Serengeti and three on the shores of Lake Masek. The form concerned is the interesting race goodsoni that some taxonomists believe would be better placed with the southern Buffy Pipit A. vaalensis or perhaps even treated as a separate species, Goodson’s Pipit.

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis: Good numbers of this Palearctic migrant seen at Ngorongoro and in the Serengeti.

Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: Several of this Palearctic migrant was sighted in the crater, and around Ndutu.

Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus: Seven birds in the Serengeti. Rosy-breasted Longclaw Macronyx ameliae: This gloriously colourful bird was seen in the crater and

in the Serengeti, where we had some stunning photo ops. HIRUNDINIDAE Banded Martin Riparia cincta: Small numbers were encountered at Ngorongoro, in the Serengeti, and

around Ndutu. Sand Martin Riparia riparia: One in the crater. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii: Scattered records of small numbers along the route. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: This Palearctic migrant was common and widespread. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Relatively common from Tarangire to Ndutu. All sightings

referred to the resident form emini rather than to the Palearctic migrants that do not venture this far south.

Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis: Only two birds in the Serengeti. Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo abyssinica: Locally common along the route. Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula: Widespread sightings in appropriate habitat. Common House Martin Delichon urbicum: This Palearctic migrant was sighted at Tarangire, and at

Lodoare Gate. Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne holomelas: Relatively common bird in Arusha and Ngorongoro. In

addition four birds were noted in central Serengeti. PYCNONOTIDAE Black-headed Mountain Greenbul Andropadus nigriceps: Small numbers at Arusha NP and one at

the crater rim. The form concerned is sometimes lumped in Western Mountain Greenbul A. tephrolaemus with the name Mountain Greenbul being used for the enlarged species.

Stripe-faced Greenbul Andropadus striifacies: Two on the slopes of Mount Meru at Arusha NP. Grey-olive Greenbul Phyllastrephus cerviniventris: A noisy group of four at Ngare Sero and two at

Lake Manyara. Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor: Widespread and sometimes common. TIMALIIDAE Black-lored Babbler Turdoides sharpei: Two in Tarangire and commonly encountered in the Ndutu

area and in central Serengeti.

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Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii: Relatively common in central Serengeti and around Ndutu..

Northern Pied Babbler Turdoides hypoleucus: A total of eight in Tarangire. Rufous Chatterer Turdoides rubiginosus: One at Oldupai. TURDIDAE [Some taxonomists place all the following species, except for those in the genus Turdus in the family Muscicapidae.] White-starred Robin (W-s Forest Robin) Pogonocichla stellata: One was seen on the slopes of Mount

Meru. Rüppell’s Robin Chat Cossypha semirufa: This handsome and vocal singer was noted on several

occasions from Arusha to Ngorongoro. White-browed Robin Chat Cossypha heuglini: This bird, which prefers drier habitat than previous

species, was heard and seen well in central Serengeti. Cape Robin Chat Cossypha caffra: Two in Arusha NP, and four at the crater rim. Spotted Morning Thrush Cichladusa guttata: This strikingly marked bird was seen well in Tarangire

and near Lake Manyara.. Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia (H): One was heard singing in Ndutu area. White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys: One in Arusha NP, two in central Serengeti,

four at Nasera Rock, and four near Ndutu. Irania Irania gutturalis: Two at Oldupai including some really good views of an adult male. African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus: Easy to see in Arusha National Park and in Ngorongoro. The

African resident forms are now considered to be a separate species, African Stonechat S. torquatus.

Whinchat Saxicola rubetra: Six of these Palearctic migrants were noted. Four in Ngorongoro and two in central Serengeti.

Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe: This Palearctic migrant was seen in relatively good numbers in the Serengeti and around Ndutu..

Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka: One of this Palearctic migrant was seen at Ndutu. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina: Only two of this Palearctic migrant on the Lariboro Plains. Schalow’s Wheatear Oenanthe lugubris: Six in the crater and six at Nasera Rock. This form is

sometimes lumped in Abyssinian Black Wheatear O. lugubris or alternatively both are lumped in Mourning Wheatear O. lugens.

Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata: The most common and widespread of the wheatears. Northern Anteater Chat Myrmecocichla aethiops: Ten in the crater and four at Nasera Rock. Common Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis: One at Nasera Rock, and another one near Ndutu. Mountain Thrush Turdus abyssinicus: One on the slopes of Mount Meru, and two on the crater rim.

The race concerned is oldeani. This species was previously lumped in Olive Thrush T. olivaceus and the complex is in the process of being taxonomically re-evaluated.

MUSCICAPIDAE Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata: Small numbers of this Palearctic migrant were seen from

Arusha to central Serengeti. Absent in Ndutu. African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta: These little flycatchers were seen well in Arusha

National Park and in the crater forests. Ashy Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens: Several were noted including a family party of three at

Lake Manyara.. African Grey Flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus: This bush bird was rather scarce this year. Small

numbers were encountered in Tarangire, in the Serengeti, and Ndutu. Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus: This beautiful flycatcher was seen in small numbers in Tarangire,

in the Serengeti and around Ndutu.

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SYLVIIDAE [Some taxonomists place the genera Cisticola, Prinia, Apalis, Camaroptera and Calamonastes in a separate family, Cisticolidae.] Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus (H): One was heard singing in Tarangire, but we

didn't manage to lure it out of the dense vegetation. Lesser Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris: One at the hippo pool in the crater. Upcher's Warbler Hippolais lanquida: Small numbers were encountered in Tarangire, including

couple of rather vocal and well behaving individuals right outside our accommodation. Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina: Two singletons in the Serengeti. Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria: One sighting of this Palearctic migrant in the acacia scrub on Lariboro

Plains. Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis: This Palearctic migrant was seen in the acacia scrub near

Ndutu. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla: Five in Arusha NP, one at Ngare Sero, and one on the crater rim. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus: Widespread sightings of this Palearctic migrant throughout,

some of which were heard singing. Brown Woodland Warbler Phylloscopus umbrovirens: Five of this locally breeding warbler were seen

in Arusha NP. Evergreen Forest Warbler Bradypterus mariae (H): Two of this ultra skulker were heard in Arusha NP,

but simply refused to show. Cinnamon Bracken Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus: Two seen and two more heard in Arusha NP,

in addition six were heard on the crater rim in one day. African Moustached Warbler Melocichla mentalis: Two seen in the bush country in Arusha National

Park. Fan-tailed Grassbird Schoenicola brevirostris: One seen and another one heard near the entrance to

Arusha NP, and one was in central Serengeti. Dark-capped Yellow Warbler Chloropeta natalensis: One in Arusha NP. Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans: Several were noted in Arusha National Park and on the crater rim. Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops: One in Arusha NP. Trilling Cisticola Cisticola woosnami: Several in Arusha National Park. Hunter’s Cisticola Cisticola hunteri: Fairly common at Ngorongoro. This is a Tanzanian near-endemic. Winding Cisticola Cisticola marginatus: This species was encountered in Tarangire, in the crater, in

the Serengeti and around Ndutu. The form concerned is usually lumped in Rufous-winged Cisticola C. galactotes using the name Winding Cisticola for the enlarged species.

Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis: This large cisticola was seen and heard well in the Serengeti. Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chinianus: The most commonly encountered cisticola. Lyne's Cisticola Cisticola distinctus: Four at the gate on the way to the crater. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: This species, which is also known as the Fan-tailed Warbler of

Europe, was commonly encountered. Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus: Small numbers were noted on the plains near Ndutu. Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens: An abundant cisticola in the crater and on the

Serengeti Plains. Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava: This species was seen in small numbers in Arusha NP, in

Tarangire, in Ngorongoro, and in the Serengeti. Grey Wren-Warbler Calamonastes simplex: One was seen and another one heard in the acacia scrub

on Lariboro Plains. Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata: Widespread sightings throughout. Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida: This species was encountered in small numbers in the thorn

bush forest near the Lariboro Plains, Ngorongoro, central Serengeti, and Nasera Rock. The flavida complex is not fully understood, and it is thought that more than one species may be involved. We recorded the race golzi.

Brown-headed Apalis Apalis alticola: Two seen well at Lodoare gate. Grey-capped Warbler Eminia lepida: Excellent views of this smart warbler in the crater rim forest. Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii: A handful of widespread sightings.

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Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis: Two at Nasera Rock. Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella: One in Tarangire, four in the central Serengeti and four at

Ndutu. Brown Parisoma Parisoma lugens: Common in the crater highlands. Banded Parisoma Parisoma boehmi: Widespread sightings of this pretty and vocal little warbler in

suitable acacia scrub habitat. ZOSTEROPIDAE Abyssinian White-eye Zosterops abyssinicus: Four in the thorn bush forest near the Lariboro Plains. Montane White-eye Zosterops poliogaster: 25 or so of the greenish-bellied form eurycricotus in

Arusha National Park and six of the form mbuluensis, which has yellower belly, in the crater forests. Our birds belonged to the distinctive eurycricotus group known as Broad-ringed White-eye.

PARIDAE White-bellied Tit Parus albiventris: Three in the scrub near the gate to Lake Manyara NP. A write-in! Red-throated Tit Parus fringillinus: This attractive little bird was seen well at Ndutu, Nasera Rock, and

in central Serengeti. It is endemic to north Tanzania and southern Kenya. MONARCHIDAE African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis: One in the Serengeti, a pair with nest at Gibb's Farm

on our last day, and one heard only bird in Arusha NP. PLATYSTEIRIDAE Chin-spot Batis Batis molitor: Scattered records of small numbers. PRIONOPIDAE Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus rueppelli: Common in the Serengeti, Ndutu and

Tarangire. The species is sometimes placed in the family Laniidae. LANIIDAE Magpie Shrike Urolestes melanoleucus: This distinctive shrike was common in Tarangire, and again in

central Serengeti. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio: Small numbers of this Palearctic migrant were encountered in the

Serengeti and around Ndutu. Isabelline Shrike Lanius [isabellinus] isabellinus: One of these Palearctic migrants was seen in

Tarangire. Rufous-tailed Shrike Lanius [isabellinus] phoenicuroides: One in central Serengeti and two in the

Ndutu area. Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides: Common in central Serengeti. In addition a few were

noted around Ndutu. Long-tailed Fiscal Lanius cabanisi: This shrike was common in Tarangire area. Taita Fiscal Lanius dorsalis: This smart shrike was seen at Oldupai and on Lariboro plains. Common Fiscal Lanius collaris: Widespread, and sometimes common, throughout the highland areas. MALACONOTIDAE Brubru Nilaus afer: Rather common in suitable thorn bush habitat, but more often heard than seen.

The name presumably is an onomatopoeic rendering of the far-carrying call. Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus: Three in the crater. Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis: Widespread in small numbers. Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus: Not uncommon in the Arusha area and at Ngorongoro. Slate-coloured Boubou Laniarius funebris: Scattered records of small numbers at Lariboro, in

Tarangire and in the Serengeti.

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Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla: Singletons were noted in Arusha NP, Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Misigyo camp site, and Gibb's Farm.

CAMPEPHAGIDAE Black Cuckoo-Shrike Campephaga flava: One at the Lodoare gate. Grey Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina caesia: Three were seen at the Lodoare gate. DICRURIDAE Common Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis: Common and widespread in the dry bush country. ORIOLIDAE Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus: One on the way to Tarangire. African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus: One in Tarangire. CORVIDAE Pied Crow Corvus albus: Common in the Arusha area, and again around Ngorongoro Farm House. White-naped Raven Corvus albicollis: Small numbers were seen in Arusha NP, on the way to Lariboro

plains and in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Cape Rook Corvus capensis: This species was encountered in small numbers near the gate to

Serengeti. STURNIDAE Waller's Starling Onychognathus walleri: 20 in Arusha NP. Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio: Scattered records of small numbers. Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus: 25 or so around our lodge in Tarangire, two at Nasera

Rock and two on the way to Arusha on our last day. Rüppell’s Long-tailed Starling Lamprotornis purpuropterus: Good numbers in central Serengeti. Hildebrandt’s Starling Lamprotornis hildebrandti: This colourful starling was seen daily from the

crater onwards. This species is Tanzanian near-endemic. Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus: A bird that lives up to its name. Widespread and often

common. Ashy Starling Cosmopsarus unicolor: This Tanzanian endemic was easy to see in Tarangire. Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea: This year very common, with many juveniles and occupied

nests at Lariboro, in Tarangire, in the Serengeti and especially around Ndutu, where they often associated with herds of game.

BUPHAGIDAE [This family is sometimes lumped in Sturnidae.] Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus: Scattered records of small numbers from Arusha

National Park to central Serengeti. Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus: Small numbers in the Serengeti. NECTARINIIDAE [There has been a recent revision of the taxonomy of sunbirds with the result that many species have now been placed in different genera.] Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird Anthreptes orientalis: One was seen well in the thorn bush forest in

Tarangire. Collared Sunbird Anthreptes collaris: Four in the Arusha area. Amethyst Sunbird Nectarinia amethystina: Two leader only birds on the way to Tarangire. The species

is now placed in the genus Chalcomitra. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Nectarinia senegalensis: This stunner was seen in small numbers on the

crater rim, in central Serengeti and around Ndutu. The species is now placed in the genus Chalcomitra.

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Variable Sunbird Nectarinia venusta: This species was easily seen throughout the tour. The species has been renamed Cinnyris venustus.

Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Nectarinia mediocris: This dazzling sunbird was easy to see in the crater forests. The species is now placed in the genus Cinnyris.

Marico Sunbird Nectarinia mariquensis: Ten or so in the central Serengeti. In addition one non-leader bird in Ngorongoro. The species is now placed in the genus Cinnyris.

Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze: Seven birds seen in the crater forests. Perhaps the most beautiful of the sunbirds encountered on this tour.

Bronze Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis: This dark sunbird was seen in Arusha National Park and in the crater forest.

Golden-winged Sunbird Nectarinia reichenowi: This glorious sunbird was seen in good numbers in the crater forests.

Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa: A total of four of these brilliantly coloured birds were at the crater rim forests.

Beautiful Sunbird Nectarinia pulchella: Rather common around Ndutu, and a singleton in Tarangire. The species has been renamed Cinnyris pulchellus.

PASSERIDAE Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus: Also known as Northern Grey-headed Sparrow the species was

noted at Arusha and near Tarangire. Swahili Sparrow Passer suahelicus: Rather common in the Serengeti. A Tanzanian near-endemic. Kenya Rufous Sparrow Passer rufocinctus: This sparrow was first seen in central Serengeti, and later

on the way to Nasera Rock. It is sometimes lumped in Southern Rufous (or Great) Sparrow P. motitensis.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Scattered records of this introduced and spreading species. Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey: A flock of 20 in the central Serengeti. Yellow-spotted Petronia Petronia pyrgita: Five at Nasera Rock. PLOCEIDAE White-headed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis dinemelli: Common and easy to see in Tarangire and in

central Serengeti. Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis niger: A few in Tarangire, but very common in the Serengeti. Rufous-tailed Weaver Histurgops ruficauda: This Tanzanian endemic was easy to see in Tarangire, in

the crater, and the Serengeti. Grey-capped Social Weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi: This attractive and subtly plumaged species was

rather common near and on the picnic site in central Serengeti. Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis: Scattered records of small numbers. Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons: Small numbers in suitable habitat in the Arusha area, and a

singleton at Gibb's Farm. Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht: Rather common in the Ngorongoro area. The race concerned

has historically been treated as a separate species Reichenow’s Weaver P. reichenowi and so may well be again.

Taveta Golden Weaver Ploceus castaneiceps: Two colonies totalling 25 birds in Arusha. Endemic to lowlands around the base of Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru.

Jackson's Golden-backed Weaver Ploceus jacksoni: Two near Arusha, and one in Tarangire. Vitelline Masked Weaver Ploceus vitellinus: Encountered in the Serengeti. The species is sometimes

lumped in African Masked Weaver P. velatus. Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius: Rather common in central Serengeti. A few elsewhere. Speke’s Weaver Ploceus spekei: A singleton on Lariboro Plains, and good numbers in the crater. Black-headed Weaver Ploceus cucullatus: Good numbers around Ngorongoro Farm House and a few

at Ndutu. Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus: 20 on the Lariboro Plains. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps: Three in Tarangire, and one in central Serengeti. Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea: Two on Lariboro Plains, 40 at Lake Manyara.

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Cardinal Quelea Quelea cardinalis: 30 in central Serengeti. It was good to see this species, which has been very difficult to find on earlier trips, in such good numbers.

Black Bishop Euplectes gierowii: This attractive bird was seen in small numbers in Tarangire, at the crater rim, near Ndutu and in Oldupai. The race concerned is the distinctive friederichseni.

Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis: This striking bird was seen in Arusha NP, and in the Ngorongoro area.

Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris: Thanks to abundant rains there was lots of suitable habitat for this bird, which was encountered in good numbers at Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro and in central Serengeti.

White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus: One in Tarangire and nine in central Serengeti. Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens: 12 males in breeding plumage were seen on the crater

rim. Jackson’s Widowbird Euplectes jacksoni: 45 or so including large flock of females around several

displaying males in the grasslands on the crater rim. Classed as ‘Near-threatened’ in Threatened Birds of the World, this species is endemic to Kenya and northern Tanzania.

Parasitic Weaver Anomalospiza imberbis: Five in the grasslands of the central Serengeti. A rare bird on this itinerary.

ESTRILDIDAE Grey-headed Negrofinch Nigrita canicapilla: One at Lodoare Gate. Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba: Also known as Melba Finch, three were noted. Abyssinian Crimsonwing Cryptospiza salvadori: Two calling birds in Arusha NP. Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala: 30 in the crater and two singletons elsewhere. Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus: Small numbers in Tarangire, and two in central

Serengeti. Blue-capped Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus cyanocephalus: Small numbers in the Serengeti. Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster: A total of five singletons of this dazzling little finch. Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotus: Small numbers in the Serengeti. African Quail-Finch Ortygospiza fuscogrissa: Six in central Serengeti. Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata: One at Ngorongoro Farm House and four in central Serengeti. VIDUIDAE [This family is sometimes lumped in Estrildidae.] Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata: One in Tarangire. Steel-blue Whydah Vidua hypocherina: Six of these spectacular birds in central Serengeti and two

near Ndutu. Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura: Males in breeding plumage seen from Arusha to Ngorongoro.

This species parasites Common Waxbill. Straw-tailed Whydah Vidua fischeri: Four of these cracking birds were seen on the way to Serengeti.

This species parasites Purple Grenadier. Paradise Whydah Vidua paradisaea: Scattered records of ones and twos. This species parasites Green-

winged Pytilia. FRINGILLIDAE Streaky Seedeater Serinus striolatus: Common, and easy to see, in the crater rim forests. Reichenow's Seedeater Serinus reichenowi: Two in Tarangire. Thick-billed Seedeater Serinus burtoni: A total of ten in the crater rim forests. Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus flavivertex: Small numbers seen in the crater highlands. This species

is sometimes lumped with Cape Canary S. canicollis. East African Citril Serinus hypostictus: Small numbers seen in the crater highlands. The species is

sometimes lumped with African Citril S. citrinelloides. White-bellied Canary Serinus dorsostriatus: Fairly common in the Serengeti. Also noted in the

Lariboro area, and at Oldupai Gorge.

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Southern Grosbeak Canary Serinus buchanani: This big-billed bird was seen at Oldupai. It is a Tanzanian near-endemic.

MAMMALS Guereza Colobus Colobus guereza: Great views of these marvellously shaggy monkeys in the Arusha

area. Olive Baboon Papio anubis: Widespread sightings throughout the tour. Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus pygerythrus: Small numbers throughout. Sykes’s Monkey Cercopithecus albogularis: Common in Arusha National Park and a few at Ngare

Sero. Kingdon lumps this distinctive form in Blue Monkey C. mitis using the name Gentle Monkey for the enlarged species.

Blue Monkey Cercopithecus mitis: A few were noted in the crater rim forests. Greater Galago Otolemur crassicaudatus: Good close-up views of two visiting a feeder after sunset

near Ngare Sero. In addition two were sighted in the gardens of Nagare Sero the next morning by the leader only.

Yellow-winged Bat Lavia frons: A few of these colourful bats were seen in the thorn bush forest in the Serengeti.

Cape Hare/Scrub Hare Lepus capensis/saxatilis: A handful of unidentified hares were seen. Ochre Bush Squirrel (Huet's Bush S) Paraxerus ochraceus: A few were noted in Tarangire, at Lodoare

gate and at Gibb's Farm. Common Jackal Canis aureus: Relatively common around Ndutu, and on the way to Nasera Rock,

with some excellent views. Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas: Three in Tarangire, two in central Serengeti and two in Ndutu

area. Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis: Brief views of one on the way to Nasera Rock, and great views of

a group of 10 eating insects at Ndutu one evening. Ratel (Honey Badger) Mellivora capensis: One seen well in broad daylight in the short grass plains on

the way to Ndutu. It is nocturnal in its habits, and consequently seldom seen. A lifer for the leader!

Slender Mongoose Herpestes sanquinea: One in central Serengeti. Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula: A handful in Tarangire, and ten in central Serengeti. Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo: Rather common in Tarangire, and again the Serengeti. Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta: This fascinating animal was seen well in Tarangire, in the crater and

the Serengeti. Serval Cat (Serval) Felis serval: Two in central Serengeti, including some great views and good photo

ops. Leopard Panthera pardus: First magnificent encounter in Arusha NP involved a very close big male

cat relaxing in a shady road side tree. Although not rare in Arusha NP. it is seldom seen due to dense forest cover. Another individual, again hiding by the roadside, was just 15 meters away in central Serengeti, and offered great chances for close-up photos.

Lion Panthera leo: Our first encounter with this magnificent beast was in Tarangire where we saw a copulating couple. Later in the crater, we had a total of nine individuals and then in the Serengeti many, including a group of 15. Some really close views were obtained!

Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus: A total of six. First one rather briefly near Naabi gate on our way to Ndutu. Later we followed a rather shy female on the plains around Ndutu for some time, before finding a more confiding band of three brothers having a siesta. Two days later we connected again with a female, which was probably the same one we had seen earlier, walking around and showing really well.

Yellow-spotted Hyrax Heterohyrax brucei: Seen well in Tarangire, and at Seronera in central Serengeti.

African Elephant Loxodonta africana: Common in Tarangire, in central Serengeti and in the crater. Common Zebra Equus quagga: This smart animal was widespread and abundant, with highest daily

numbers in the Serengeti.

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24 Birdquest: Serengeti & Ngorongoro 2010

Browse Rhinoceros (Black Rhinoceros) Diceros bicornis: After very distant scope views from the crater rim, we had rather nice views in the crater the next day. In addition David and Uli scoped several more individuals from their hotel balcony in the evening bringing today's Rhino total up to nine!

Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius: 15 at Lake Manyara, 20 in the crater, and a total of 40 in central Serengeti.

Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus: Widespread and often common. Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis: This impressive animal was quite common in Arusha National Park, in

Tarangire, at Lake Manyara, and in the Serengeti. All were of the Masai race tippelkirshi. African Buffalo Syncerus caffer: These beasts were most numerous in Arusha National Park, in

Tarangire, and in the crater. It is hard to believe that this lazy looking ‘cow’ is one of the most dangerous animals in Africa.

Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus: Six in Arusha National Park, and two in the Ngorongoro area. Eland Taurotragus oryx: We saw this massive antelope in the crater, around Ndutu and on the short

grass plains on the way to Nasera Rock, where we counted 100 animals. Harvey’s Duiker Cephalophus harveyi: Four of these delightful little antelopes were seen in Arusha

National Park. Steinbuck (Steenbok) Raphicerus campestris: One in the Ndutu area. Kirk’s Dik-Dik Madoqua kirki: This adorable little antelope was widespread in small numbers. Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca: A total of five in the Serengeti. Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus: Small numbers were noted from Arusha to Ngorongoro. Red-fronted Gazelle (Thomson’s Gazelle) Gazella rufifrons: Widespread with up to 1000 in a day in

the Serengeti. Grant’s Gazelle Gazella granti: Common in the Serengeti, and in the crater with maximum daily

count of 200. In addition small numbers were seen in Tarangire. Impala Aepyceros melampus: Lots in Tarangire and smaller numbers in the Serengeti. Topi Damaliscus lunatus: Four were seen in central Serengeti. Kongoni Alcelaphus buselaphus: Small numbers in Tarangire, in the crater, and Serengeti. Brindled Gnu (Blue Wildebeeste) Connochaetes taurinus: The gnu experience defies description! This

year we admired the great spectacle of a huge mass of foraging animals on the plains around Naabi hills (estimated 200,000). On the last day on the way out of Ndutu, we had even greater spectacle of thousands of wandering animals crossing the Ndutu Lake in long lines. A magical sight and great end to our Serengeti experience!

REPTILES Leopard Tortoise Geochelone pardalis: A few in the Serengeti. River Tortoise sp: Five unidentified river tortoises in the Ndutu area. Three-horned Chameleon Chameleo jacksoni: One on the slopes of Mount Meru. Red-headed Rock Agama Agama agama: A few were noted in Tarangire and in central Serengeti.

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25 Birdquest: Serengeti & Ngorongoro 2010

BIRD OF THE TRIP 1. Caspian Plover 2. Schalow's Turaco 3. Jackson's Widowbird 3. Red-fronted Tinker 3. Rosy-breasted Longclaw 4. Roosting storks at Lake Ndutu MAMMAL OF THE TRIP 1. Leopard 2. Serval 2.Cheetah 3. Brindled Gnu 4. Ratel (Honeybadger)

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Our Serengeti & Ngorongoro tour is great for a superb selection of quality mammals. All and all we encountered over 40 species of mammals including Leopard (two different individuals were seen), Lions, which is commonly encountered on this tour, and Cheetah (great views and photo opportunities of four different individuals).

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Other great mammals included Bat-eared Fox (top left), Serval (top right), Spotted Hyena (middle left), Grant's Gazelle (middle right) and Red-fronted Gazelle (bottom).

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We also observed over 400 species of birds in just 13 days in the field including gorgeous Rosy-breasted Longclaw, displaying Kori Bustard in the Ngorongoro crater, stylish Secretary Bird and the endemic Grey-breasted Spurfowl, which is common in the Serengeti.

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Eastern Chanting-Goshawk Coqui Francolin

African Green-Pigeon Marabou Stork

Ruppell's Long-tailed Starling Black-crowned Tchagra

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A pair of Grey-crowned Crane with chicks Lesser Masked Weaver

Speckled Pigeon Fischer's Lovebird

Wattled Starling Usambiro Barbet