The Best of Bead & Button - Peyote Stitch Beading Projects

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  • 8/6/2019 The Best of Bead & Button - Peyote Stitch Beading Projects

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    Compiled by J ulia Ge rla ch

    B es t o f Bead&But t on magaz ine

    Peyo te S titchB ead in g P ro jec ts

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    .C 2005 Kal rnbach Pub Iishing Co. All righ I,reserved, This book ma.y not be reproduced in

    . parlor in whole without written permission of the publisher, except in the case of briefquotation, used in reviews. Published by Kalmbach Trade Press, a division of Kalmbach

    Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroad, Circle, Waukesha, WI 53186. These books are distributed to thebook trade by Wa ISO n-Gu ptill.Primed in the Un ited Sta tes 0f America050607080910 1112 13 14 10987654321Publisher's Cotaloging-Jn-Poblicauon Data(Prepared by The Donohue Group, lnc.)Peyo te st itch p roj ec ts : from th e pages of Bead & b unon magazine.

    p, : iU.; em. -- (Best of Bead & button magazine)ln clu d e s index.ISBN: 0-87116-218-0

    I. Bcadwork=Panerns. 2. Beadwork=Handbocks, manuals, etc. l.Title: Bead & button.TT860 .P49 200S745.582

    Managing Art Direcron LisaBergmanPhotographers: Jim Forbes, William ZubackProject editors: Julia Gerlach, Pam O'ConnorAcknowledgementsr Mindy Brooks, Terri Field, Lora Groszkiewicz, Kellie Jaeger, Diane Iolie, PattiKejp., Alice Korach, Tcnya Limberg, Debbie Nishihara, Cheryl Phelan, Carrie Rohloff, Carole Ross,Candice SI. Jacques, Maureen Schimmel, lisa Schroeder, Terri Torbeck, Elizabeth Weber, Lesley WeissThese designs are for .you . pe rsonal use. They are not in tended for resale.All projects have appeared previously in B.ad&Bu!TOrl magazine.

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    Introduct ionBasicsGal leryJEWELRYPeyo te ribbon la ria t 14Easy peyo te tube necklace 15A lterna tive c ircu lar peyo te sta rt 17Embellished peyo te tube necklace 18Two- & th ree-d rop peyo te brace le t 19Two-need le peyote sta rt 21Snake tra il b race le t 22S ilve r s ensa tion brace le t 24Peyo te -framed pearl brace le t 26Peyo te window brace le t 29Be jewe led peyo te bracelet 32Wood rose necklace 36Captive cabochon pendant 40Ruffled brooch 42Ce llin i sp ira l neck lace 46Free-fo rm brace le t 48Shaped necklace 51Russian leaves pendant o r brooch 53BEADED BEADSLacy beaded beadsBead around the beadW on de r be ads un ve ile dB ea de d b utto ns

    58606366

    AMULET BAGSM edic ine bagsTribu te to the ra i n fo rest

    7075

    H O M E D E C O RCo lle c tib le c a tc h -a ilsB ea de d ta ss elsF ree fo rm peyo te vaseS pira l v es se lsB re ath ta kin g o rn am e ntsContr ibutorsIndex

    8082858892

    9596

    CONTENTS459

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    When, BeadEtBut fo l1 mag az in e b eg anp ublic atio n in 1994, a p erio d o f e xube ra ntdiscovery and experim entation had begun in thebca dc ommu nity. ln tere st in tra ditio na l be adw orkha d reve a Ied to a ne w gcn e rati on of bead arti sts aw on de rful a rray o f o ff-lo om be ad we avin g stitc he sfro m Am erica n In d ian, Afr lea n, Russian, and othe rc ultu re s. W ith e ntnu sla srn , a rtists beg an to a dop tthese techniques to m ake innovative works of artand ornamenta t ion .

    B re akth ro ug h w orks s uc h a s V irg in ia B la ke lo ck 'sC ellin i spira l n ec kla ce s (de mo nstra te d by D ebSam uels on page 46) and W endy Ellsw orth 's rapid-In cre as e p ey ote -s titc h v es se ls (p ag :e 9 0) e xp an de de ve ryo ne's co nc ep tio n of w ha t w as p ossible . T he sea nd m an y o th er n ov el. a pp li.c atio ns o f tra ditio na lte ch niq ue s w ere firs t in tro du ce d 10 the world atla ru e th ro ug h th e p aq es of B ea dE tB utto nPey ote s ti,tc h, s ome tim e s calle d g .o ur d s titc h,,is a bcadweaving techniq ue adapted from N ativeAme ric an trad ition al be ad wo rk. M an y be ad a rtistsc o n si de r i t fo re m ost a mo ng 1h e ,irc re a tiv e to ol s ,It c re ate s a .sinu ou s fa bric by c lo se ly n e.stlin g th ebeads next to each other. W hen a highly uniformtype of cylinder bead was introduced to theAme ric an m arke t by J ap an ese be ad comp anie sM iyuki and Ioho, the tight w eave of peyote stitchtook on a MW re le va nc e. A rtists c ou ld c re ate sle ek .

    I NTRODUCT IONg l!itte rin g su rfa ce s th at e xa ctly re nd ere d c ha rte dd esig ns" T he se b ea ds g ave a c en tu rie s-o ld s titc ha new-millennium look,

    W ith i n the se p a9 es, yo u: w i II fn d wo rks thatdraw from the rich traditions of the past and thosethat look to the future. Selected from 11 ye ars o fpu blic atio n, th e ve ry be st d esig ns h ave be enin clu de d in th es e p ag es : b ea utifu l' je we Lry,. b ag s,and obj e cts th at rna ke th is trad iti on a I' s ti t chs u pr em e ly r e,1 v a nt fo r to d'a y's be a d a ,rti st,

    Seve ra l o f th es e p ro je cts a re e xp re ssly o rie nte dto the pro ce ss o f p eyo te stitc hin g, p ro vid in gtechniq ues and m ethods to help you deviseyour own version of the work-w ith the benef tof th e artist's e xp ertise . O the rs g ive yo u ste p-by-step guidance for replicating a piece of jewelryo r a rtwo rk

    Whic he ve r ro ad y ou ta ke , y ou 'II a pp re cia teth e m an y re so urc es B~adftBlit lon consistentlyp ro vid es : a c om p re he n s lv e B a sic s" se ctio n ,d eta ile d m ate ria l's I is ts, d ea r h ow -to p ho to gr ap hsand figures, and the confidence that aU ourpro je cts h ave be en te ste d: by th e e dito rs. T akesom e tim e to browse through our "G allerv"section for inspiration and then get started: onyo ur o wn p eyo te p ursu it.

    - T he e dito rs of6ead:&6utton

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    CONDITIO NIN G T HR EADC on ditio nin g s tra ig hte ns a ndstre ng th en s yo ur th re ad a nd a lsoh elp s it re sis t fra yin g, se pa ra tin g, a ndta ng lin g. P ull u nw axe d n ylo n th re ad slike N ym o through e ithe r bee sw ax (no tcand le w ax or para ffin ) o r ThreadH ea ve n to c on ditio n. B ee sw ax a dd sta ck in es s th at is u se fu l if you wa nt yourbe ad wo rk to fit tig htly . T hre ad H ea ve nadds a static ch a rge tha t causes theth re ad to re pe l itse lf, so itcan't be u se dw ith d ou ble d th re ad . A ll n ylo n th re ad sstre tch , so m ain ta in tension o n theth read as you cond ition it.

    H ALF-H ITC H K NO TCome out a bead and fo rm a loopp erp en dic u la r to th e th re ad be tw ee nb ea ds . B rin g th en ee dle u nd er th eth re ad a wa y fro mthe loop . Then goba ck o ve r th eth re ad a ndth ro ug h th e lo op .P ull g en tly so th ek not d o es n 'ttig hte n p rem atu r ely .O VERH AND K NOTMake a loop andp ass th e w ork i n gend th rough it.Pu ll the ends totig hte n th e kn ot.

    SQ UARE KN OT1 C ross the le ft-ha nd cord over therigh t-hand cord , and then bring it underthe rig h t-hand cord from back to fron t.Pu ll it up i,n front so both ends arefa ei n g u pw a rd s.

    2 C ross righ t over le ft, fo rm ing a loop .and go th rough the loop , aga in fromback to front. Pu ll the ends to tigh tenth e kn ot.

    SU RG EO N'S K NO TC ross the rig h t endover the le ft and [ffio th rough loop .G o throug h loo pa ga in . P uII e nd s totig hte n. C ro ss th ele ft end over therigh t and goth ro ug h o nc e. T ig hte n.

    BAS ICSLADDER AND BRICK STITCH1 A ladder o f seedor bug le beads ism ost o ften used tob eg in b ric k s titc h:P ick up two beads.L ea ve a 3 -4 -in .(8-10cm ) ta il a ndgo th rough both beads aga in in thesam e d irection . Pu II the top bead dow nso the beads are side by side . The th readexits the bottom of bead In. Stringbead #3 and go back th ro ugh #2 fromtop to bottom . Com e back up #3.2 S trin g b ea d 14. Go th ro ug h '3 frombottom to top and #4 from top tobottom . A dd odd-num bere d beads like'3nd even-num be red beads like 14.3 To stabilize the ladder, z igzag backth roug h a ll the beads.

    ~~~~4 Begin each row so no th read showson the edge: S tring two beads. G o underthe th read between the second andth i rd beads on theladder from back tofront. P uII tigh t. G oup the second beadadded, then down thefirs t. C om e back upth e se co nd be ad .5 F or th e re ma in in gstitche s on each row ,p ick up one bead.P ass t he n ee d Ieunder the next loopon the row be lowfrom back to fro n t.Go back up the new bead.

    5

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    TWO-D RO P PEYOTE STITC HW ork tw o-drop peyote stitch just likepeyo te stitch , bu t treat every pa ir o fbeads as ifit were a sing le bead .1 S tart w ith an even num ber of beadsdivisib le by four. P ick up tw o bea ds, skipthe first two beads, and go through then ex t tw o b ea ds . R ep ea t a cro ss , e nd in gby go ing th rough the last two beads.~,I2 Pick up two beads and go th rough thelast tw o bea ds a dded . R epea t acro ss therow . To end, go th rough the first twobea ds add ed on the p reviou s row .Continue adding row s to reach thedesi re d l eng th .

    JO IN IN G PEYOTE PIEC ESTo jo in two sections o f a fla t peyotep iece invisib ly, beg in w ith a h igh beadon one side and a low bead on theo ther. G o th rough each h igh bead,a lte rn atin g s id es .

    SQUARE ST IT CH1 String the req uire d nu mber of bead s forthe first ro w. T hen string the first bead ofthe second row and go through the lastbead of the first row and the first bead ofthe se cond ro w in the sa me dire ction. T henew bead sits on top o f the o ld bead andth e h ole s a re h or iz o nta l.

    2 S tring the second bead o f row 2 and gothrough the n ext-te-l ast bea d of row 1.Continue through the new bead of row 2.R epea t th is step for the en tire row .1 ~ 2 1

    IPIRAL RO PEA sp ira l rope is form ed by stitch ing ashorte r row of "outer" beads around alonge r ro w of "inn er" bea ds. The ten sionbetween the two rows is wha t causesthe b eads to tw ist.

    The se instruction s show h ow tom ake sp ira l rope w ith twosize s of bea ds: size 8s fo rthe inner beads a nd size"os fo r the au te r beads.Y ou m ay also use beads ofa sin gle size, like a ll 11 '5.In that case , you w ouldstring few er beads fo r theo uter be ads (i.e . fo u r bead sfo r the in n er row andthree for the outer row].1 S tri ng four S and fou r11 see d b eads, leaving an8 in . (2 0c ml ta il.2 Go through the four S"sa ga in in th e s am e d ire ctio n.3 S tring an S" and four "'5. Goth rough the last th ree S 's of thep revious stitch and the 8 just added.K eep the tension firm as you work. Eachnew loop of beads shou ld sit on top o fth e previo us o ne. R epe at until you reachth e d es i r ed le ng th .

    2 3

    BAS ICSTWO-BEAD B ACKST IT CH1 T hre ad a n eedle and de cid e w hicharea to bead first. T ie a ve ry sm all kno tat the end of the thread. To a ttach theth read to the fabric , sew i nto the fabrictwo bead lengths from the beginning ofa beading line. Sew up th rough the fabric at the beginning o f the bead ing line.

    2 T o start b eade d ba ckstitch, string tw obeads and lay them along the line ofbeading on the fabric . Sew dow nth rough the fabric right in fron t of thes ec on d b ea d. B ea d s tra ig ht lin es u ntilyou 're com fortable w ith th e stitch .

    3 Sew up through the fabric betweenth e tw o bead s. C arefu lly tighten thestitch by givi n9 the th read a little pu I Iwhe re it em erges from the fabric . Donot pu ll too hard or the m ateria l w illpucker. N ow go through the secondb ea d in th e s am e d ire ctio n.

    I , I4 R epeat steps 2-3, continu ing tofo llow the beading line . To end a th read ,sew into the fabric after the last bead .Sew up betw een the th ird a nd fourthbead from the end . K not a round theth read be tw een the th ird a n d fo urthbeads. G o through a few beads in theb eade d line and knot ag ain. G o thro ugha few m ore beads, pu ll on the th readslightly and trim close to the beads1 ~ ~ 4 1

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    ATTENED CR IMPH old the crim p bead using the tip of

    o ur ch ain no se p lie rs . S qu ee ze th e p lie rsrm ly to fla tten the crim p. Tug thelasp to m ake sure the crim p has a so lidrip on the w ire . If the w ire slides,em ove the crim p bead and repea t theteps w ith a new crimp bead.The fla ttened crim p shou ld be secure.

    JU MP R IN GS, H old the jump ring w ith two pa irs o fch ainn ose plie rs or ch am no se a ndro un dn os e p lie rs , a s s hown .2 To open the jum p ring , ang le the tipso f one pa ir o f p lie rs toward you andangle the o ther pair of tips away.

    W RA PP ED LOOP1 Ma ke su re you have a t least 1 'I . in .(3 .2cm ) o f w ire a bove th e bea d. W ithth e tip of yo ur cha in no se plie rs, gra spth e w ire d irectly a bo ve the bea d.B en d the w ire (a bove th e plie rs) intoa righ t an gle.2 U sin g ro und no se p lie rs, p osltio n th ejaw s vertica lly in th e be nd .

    3 R eve rse th e ste psto c lose the open

    O LDED CRIMP jump ring .Position the crim p bead in the no tchlose st to the cri m pi n g p lie rs ' h an d ie.Separate the w ires and firm ly sq ueezee c rim p .

    Move the crim p in to the no tch a t thelie rs' tip and hold the crim p as shown.queeze the crim p bead, fo ld ing it inlf a t th e in de nta tio n.The fo lded crim p should be secure .

    4

    3 Bring the w ire over the top jaw of thro u ndnose p lie rs .4 K eep th e ja ws ve rtica l an d re po sitio nthe p liers' lower jaw snug ly in to thelo op . C urve the w ire d ow nw ard a ro un dthe bottom of the round nose p liers. This the first ha lf o f a w rapped loop .

    5 P os itio n th e c ha in no se p lie rs ' ja wsa cro ss th e lo op .6 W rap the w ire a round the w ire stemcovering the stem betw een the loop athe top bead . Trim the excess w ire andpress the cut end dose to the wrapsw ith c ha in n os e p lie rs .

    5

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    G a th er ed p ev ot p U r5 e b y C a ro l K a pla n

    GALLERY

    P eyot e o rn ament by Ko re n Bo yl an

    D yn am ic p ey o r e c u ffs b y S ylv io S uri'tyo(e !>titch B ea din g ~

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    P ey ote s titc h b ea de d h an db ag b y K ar en B oy la n

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    Beaded p illb ox h ot by L eo h /( ob o k~ r

    GALLERY

    B ez eie rJ c om p ute r c irc uit neckiore by Laura Jean M cC abe

    P eyo te o mo m e n t cover by Deb Moffe r r -Hot!

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    Peyoteribbon laria tIf you 've never done peyote stitch

    before . th is th in, slinky laria t w ill m akea satisfying first pro ject. W ith each rowbe i 09 only tw o beads wide, you 'llprog res s q uic kly, y et th e fin al p ro du ctis im pressive. The dangles on the endsprov id e a dd itio na I su bs ta nce a nd fla ir.

    For a sm ooth, fla t ribbon, useJapanese cylinder beads, as show n here.O r m ake a laria t w ith a m ore texturedsu rfa ce b y us i n9 C zech seed beads. Th islaria t is perfectly p ia i n-a II in one color-but if you'd prefer a pattern, by a llmeans add one. Feel free to vary thenum ber of stitches in you r ro w, b uts tic k w ith an even num ber of beads tokeep your pro ject as sim ple as possible .

    W ork a ribbon of two-bead-wide fla tp eyo te 4 -5 ft . (1.2-1.5m ) long. Add sixto e ight dangles on each end. Y ou canwear the necklace as a very long tiedrope (it would a lso make a fun belt),Alternative ly, double it a n d pass bothends through the fo ld at the front; orcenter it on the fran! of your neck,cross the ends behind you r neck, andthen tie them together in front.o Start w ith a 1 'h -2 -y d. (, .4 -1 .Bm )length of S ingle thread on a needle . Tiea stop bead about 6 in . (tscrnl from theend (you 'll take it o ff a nd weave the ta ilin la te r) .8tring four cylinder beads for rows1 an d 2 . W ork in even-count fla t peyote(see "Basi cs, " p, 5) until about 4-6 in.( 1 0-15cm ) of thread rem a ins.@ ) To add new thread, thread anotherneedle w ith Nym o and weave it in to thebeadw ork, m aking a few half-h itchknots as you go (see "Basics"). Exit theh igh bead at the edge with the needlepo inti n9 towa rd the ribbon and resu m e

    peyote stitch . W hen you 've w orkedsevera l rows, weave in the ta il o f theprevious thread, m aking a few half-h itch knots, the sam e way you startedthe new thread. Then tri m both ta i ls.

    o K eep adding new threads as neededuntil the ribbon is 4-5 ft. lo ng .oT o add the dangles, weave a 36- in .(.9m J-long doubled thread into the endof the ribbon and string 1-2 in. (2.5-S cm ) o f c yl in de r b ea ds . S trin g a pearla nd a fi n a l cylinder bead. G o back upthrough the pearl and all the cylinderbeads and exit the next bead on the end(photo). String a tota l o f six to e ightfringes of slig htly d ifferent lengths. Y oucan put two fringes in the sam e spacebetw een end beads. Then w eave thethread into the ribbon and make a fewhalf-hitch knots before clipp i n9 it close.Repeat at the other end.- Lo uis e M alc olm

    M A T E R I A L S 20 g size 11 " Japanese cyl inder beads 12-16 p e a ,1 5or e th er b ea ds fo, fri ng e N ymoB bea din g th re ad beesw ax or Th~ad Heaven bead ingneed le s ,~12

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    Easy peyo te tub eIf you wa nt to lea rn c ircu lar peyote

    stitch . th is is a gre at first p ro je ctC re ated in o dd-count pe yo te w ith threec olo rs o f la rg e b ea ds , it is e ye -c atc hin g,fa sh io na ble , a nd v ers atile . O d d-c ou ntc ircu la r p eyo te stitch w ith la rge be ad sis the easiest form of c ircu lar peyotebe ca use the row s have no distinct end.Th ey ju st co ntinu e sp i ra ling (se e'B as ic s," p . 5 ).

    S tring the tube on to a satin cord fora n a llu ringly sim ple ne ckla ce . A fte r yo umake the first one, try some of thevaria tions that are suggested on page16 or try som e of your own ideas.PEYOTESTITCH TUBEo T hre ad a ne ed le w ith a co mfo rta blelength of doubled be ading cord. Sew

    through a contra st-co lor sto p be adtw ice, leaving a 9-in. (23cm J ta l I.f) Pick up seven beads in the fo llow i n9order: two color A . two co lor B . twocolor C . and one co lor A . S lide them tothe stop bead. G o through the first beadagain to dose the circ le (pho to a ). Becarefu l to not sp l i t the thread whengoi n g back through a bead . W henstarting a tu be, it he lps to pu t it on achopstick. dow el, or othe r form to keepthe beadw ork tigh t so you can positionnew beads correctly. K eep the new rownea r the tip of the chopstick. M ainta intension by ke ep i n g th e co rd ta utbetween two fingers of the ha ndh old i n9 th e c ho p stic k.) Pick up one A bead, skip the nextbead on the circ le , and go through the

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    M A T E R I A L S size 6" seed beads, , O g in each o f

    three co lo rs 2 I . rgc-hole b ea ds for do ngles be ad in gneedlesor sharps,'8 or 10 S tJ in g !h ix a d cord, s ize 1-3,o r nylon

    IJphol5teryhread 40 in . (1 r n l t mm sa ti n cord/rattail 26 -g au ge cra ft w i re dea r nail poI i~ho r G -5 HypoCemen tOptio na I; chopst ick o r dowe l

    th ird bead (photo b, p .1S ). P ick up a Bbead, sk ip the next bead on the c i rc le ,and go th rough the fifth bead . P ick up aC bead, skip the next bead on the c irc le ,and go th rough the next bead, wh ichis the last bead on the firs t round .e D P ick up one A bead and go th roughthe first bead added in round 2 (photo c).o C ontinue in th is fash ion, add ing onebead per co lo r in each round to fo rmsp ira ls o f co lo r (pho to d). D iscardm alfo rm ed be ads. D on 't w orry abou ttension a t fi r st. A fte r the th ird round,g ive the work ing th read a gen t ie tug to

    snug the beads together. From now on,it w ill be obvious where each new beadgoes, and the tension w i II take care o fitse lf. W hen the tube is long enoughto ho ld , you m ay put the chopstickaside if you wish .(5 ) If you need to add th read , th reada new need le and go th rough two orth ree beads two row s back. w ork ingto wa rd th e o ld n ee dle . T ie a h alf-h itc hknot (see photo e and "B asics"). Fo llowthe o ld th read path th rough a few m orebeads and tie anoth er ha lf-h itch knot.Repeat two m ore tim es, end i ng with thenew need le exiting the sam e bead asth e o ld n ee d l e (p ho to f). Re sum e w o rkw ith the new need le . Afte r work ing afew row s, take the o ld th read th rougha few beads and tie a ha lf-h itch knot.Repe at a t least tw ice . E nd by go ingth rough a few be ads befo re cu ttingo ff the th read . D ot the knots w ith g lueapp lied from the tip o f the need le .t)W hen you reach th e desired lengthfo r your necklace , untie the stop bead.G ently p ick o ff the fi rst few rounds ofbeads until you reach stitches with firmte nsio n. W ork th e be ad s yo u've p ic ke d

    off onto the o ther end of the tube soth e n eckla ce is sti II th e d es ir ed le ng th ,) To fin ish . tie a ha lf-h itch knotbe tw een the last bead and its ne ighbor.G o th rough a ll the beads at th is end ofthe tube at least once (photo g) andknot to the body th read aga in . W eaveba ck a lo ng th e th re ad p a th a s in ste p 6to end the th read .) Re pe at s te p 8 to end the st a rt ingta il in the sam e m anner.FINISHINGo U se a p iece o f w ire as a h arn es s tostring the tube onto sa tin cord . C ut ap iece o f cra ft w ire more than tw ice thelength o f the tube . D ouble it a n d fe edthe fo lded end th rough the tube , be ingcarefu I no t to com e through thebe ad wo rk. T h re ad th e sa tin c ordth rough the fo lded end and pu ll it backth rough the tube (photo h). Pu II oneend of the cord out and cente r the tubeon the cord .@ U se la rg e-h ole b ea ds fo r d ec ora tiv eda ng les, P ass the cord th roug h the beadand tie an overhand knot (see "Basics")at the end of the cord . Snug the beadup aga inst the knot a nd repeat on theo ther s ide o f the bead. Repeat on theo ther end of the cord .VARIATIONSVary co lo r, s ize , o r type of bead fo rd iffe re nt e ffe cts. S ta rt w ith five be ad sif you use size 5". Fo r l eng thw isestri p es, u se d iffe re nt c olo rs o n th e fi rs trow , then m atch the co lo r to the beadbe low as you w ork. C hanging co lo rsa fte r se ve ra I ro ws w ill m a k e h orizo nta ls tr ip e s. S iz e 5 tr ia ng le b ea ds a lig nfla t-s id e o ut. D ro p-sh ap ed be ad sin te rlo ck w ith th e bu lb-e nd sh ow in gfo r a nubby textu re . - S am an tha Lynn

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    A lte rn ativ e circu la rpeyo te sta r tB eginn i n9 be ad ers so me tim es g et

    fru stra te d w ith c ircu la r p eyo te stitcha t first be cau se the y exp erience th e"B arbie S kirt" sy nd ro me . T he y p ut w ha tseem s to be the righ t n um ber of beadsa round a form and begin stitch ing onlyto find the work soon fla ring ou t. W hatthey end up w ith is a beau tifu lly beadedskirt fit fo r a Ba rbie do ll.

    T o p re ve nt th is fro m h ap pe nin g,rem em ber to rem ove ha I f the beadsfro m th e fo unda tion ro w. This cre ate sthe space into wh ich you w ill weave thesecond row. H ere 's what to do :o M easure the form yo u'll be bea dinga round by w rapping a stri ng o f beadsa ro und it (p ho to a). T he n re mo ve h alfo f them . Fo r exa m pie, fo r a 50-be adp atte rn , b eg in w ith 25 be ad s. If yo urin itia l ro und of bea ds is an u ne vennum be r, a dd o ne m ore. (If the tube isto o loo se, yo u can brea k a bead out o fro w 2 la te r o n.)

    N ote : I f you're u sin g th is m ethod tob eg in a p ro je ct w ith a p re de te rm in edbead count fo r the founda tion row, firststr ing th e s pe cifie d n um b er of beods .T h en ,mak e a fo rm to bead a round bycu ttin g a to ile t p ap er ro ll le ng th wis e,brin gin g it in to f it in the circle o f b ea ds ,a n d t ap in g it. Then rem ove ha lf thebe ad s a s in dic ate d a bo ve .& Run the need le th rough a ll thebeads again to form a circ le , and p lacethe circ le ove r you r fo rm an inch or twodown from the top (photo b). As youw ork, kee p go ing in the sa me d ire ctiona s th e th re ad .8h e se cre t to a so lid fo un da tio nrow is ho ld ing onto the ta il (tape helps).U se y ou r thumb to hold it snugly to theform and pu t the needle th rough onebead to lock the row in (pho to c).T igh ten it by pu ll i ng on the ta i l andwo rk in g th re a d.o Pick. u p one bea d and go th rou ghthe next bead on the founda tion row

    (photo d). R epea t unti I y ou reach thelast bead on the row. If there were anodd num ber o f beads in you r to ta lc ircu mfere nce , you can ju st ke epgoing round and round like th is. Bu tif there were an even n um ber of beads,you 'll need to work step 5 a t the end ofe ac h ro w.) Pick up one bead and go th roughthe last bead of the foundation row (thebead you went th roug h in photo c) thengo th rough the firs t bead of the secondrow . This is ca lle d th e "step -up ." Ifyou lose you r step-up, you havein cre ase d o ne be ad . T ha t's w he re p eo pletend to go wrong . - N ic ole C am pa n ella

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    b

    cEm be llished eyo tetub e neck aceII you love the look 01 beaded ropes

    but don't want to crochet one, trymak Ing t he se peyote tubes a ndernbelushmq them w,th a picot trimThe havrr tube '" easy to st.tch, and thePicot variation, seem limitless. This tube'5 don- .n even-count circular peyote,50 you'll learn Ihe "step up" I hat'snecessarv to sturt a new row

    Cons: de' U 51 n~ anvwhere fromfour to ten beach tor the tube'scircumference and work with differentbead '>Ile>, snapcs, and colors. Once thetube ''> rfonc, u's ready for decoration.Keep t slmpl e Wit h a si nqre row ofthrer iW;J[l prcot or take out your beadstavn and have fun

    forming a ring. leave a little slackbetween beads.@ Sew through the bead a fter theknot. Pick up a bead, skip a bead, andgo through the next bead (photo a ),Repeat around the circle, working ineven-count CIrcular peyote [see"BaSICS"). To start the next row, stepup by gOing through the last bead ofthe previous row and the first of thecurrent row.@ Work Incircular peyote until yournecklace IS the desired length. Sewthrough a bead or two in the last rowbefore 5 t a r tr nq the picots.o To add the picot trim, pick up threeaccent color beads and go though thebead that's next along the spiral (photob). Follow a Single line of spiralingbeads as you sn ten. When you reachthe other end of the necklace, burythe thread tails in the beadwork. Makea second PiCOt spiral alongside the first,If desired.o Secure an 18-in. [46cm) length of

    o To make a peyotl' tube, strinq",ght or mnrr [usc an even number)ma.r colo: beads on 2 yd (IBm) ofconriiucned Nymo ~nd sl de the beadsclose to lh~ tall. Knot the tarl andworklrltl thread toqerner With asurqeon's knnt (srr "Basics." r 51.

    beading cord In the last lew rows withtwo or three half-hitch knots (see"Basics") between beans. Stnnq ~ beadcap, go throuqh the loop on the clasp,then go back through the be ad c ap(photo c ) . Sew through a Itw beadv mthe end row and repeat at least twomore times for stability. Secure the cordIn the beadwork With half hitch knors.Finish the other end to match.- D eb bie P hil"p s

    M A T E R I A L S 25g size 1 1 " s ee d b ea ds , m a in color 25g size 1 1 " se ed b ea ds , a cc en t color 2 bead caps clasp Nymo 0 beading thread beeswaxor ThreadHea~ n 1 yd . (.9m)Stringth, flreline fishing line,or other beading cord

    beading needles,# 10

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    T w o - & t h r e e - d r o pp e y o t e b r a c e l e t

    C om bining d iffe re nt size s a nd typ eso f beads can be a fu n way to make aninteresti n9 item , For th is brace le t, m akeuse of two- and three -d rop peyote toshowcase M iyuki square beads in aba nd o f Delicas. The squ are beads arethe sam e size a s a three-drop p eyo testitch . W ork single peyote around th esqu are, Th en, to ad d m ore te xtu ra lin te rest, use two-drop peyote on theouter edge of the brace le t. If you wantto add m ore contrast, you can usediffe re nt co lor D elicas to fram e thes qu ar e b ea d.

    Th is bra ce le t w orks u p q uickly,but you should be com fortable worki n9in two- and th ree-drop peyo te beforey ou b eg in .

    SOU D-COL OR R OW SC ond itio n b ea ding th re ad (se e "B asics,"p . 5) at a length that you find mostco mfo rta ble . D ete rm in e th e d esire dfin ished length of you r b ra ce le t. T hebeaded portion of th is brace le t is6h in . (16cm ). Th e closure a dd s a no th er'/, in . (1 .3 cm ).o Leaving a 4-5-in . (10-12cm ) ta il,p ick up 11 ma in co lor (Me) De lic a s, S ki pthe last fou r beads strung a nd goth roug h the next bead (photo a andfigure 1, a-b), The last two beadsstrung sit above the e ighth and ninthbeads stru ng to form a new row. Y oumay have to ad just the beads so theys it c o rrect ly ,8ick up th ree MCs, Skip three beadsand go through the next bead. Th ism akes a three-drop peyote stitch . Th enp ick up two MC (photo b).e Sew through a II the beads in the

    b

    f i g u r e I

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    l.igure2

    f igu re 3

    f igu re 4

    f igu re 5

    previous row [figure 2. b-e ) exitingthe last bead. R epea t th is step everyother row for the entire brace le t.o G o through the first two beads inthe next row and p ick up one MC . Sewthrough the next three beads, and pickup one Me. Go th rough the next twobeads [ fi gu r e J. c-dj.o Pick up two MC and go th rough then ex t b ea d. T his co mp le te s a tw o-d ro pstitch . W ork a th ree-d rop, and then atw o-d ro p (fig ur e 4, d-e).o Repe at s te p s 4-5 to work four so lid-c olo r ro ws .S Q UA RE -B EA D MOTIFo Begin the next row w ith a MC two-dro p. Then w or'k an accent co lor (A C)three-drop (photo c). End w ith an M Ctwo-drop.f) Work the next row in AC .eWork an MC two-drop. P ick up asquare bead [photo d) in p lace of ath re e-d ro p. D o a no th er M C tw o-d ro p.

    o R epeat ste p 2, sew i n g thro ugh th esq uare (pho to e).o Repe a t s te p 1.o F rom no w on , w ork three m ain-co lorro ws b etw ee n th e s qu are -b ea d m otifs .G End the brace le t w ith four m ain-c olo r r ow s.AD D TH E M AG NETIC C LASPo To attach one half o f the m agneticc la sp , fo llo w th e s trin gin g p atte rnshown in figu re 5, a-b. Repeat thethread path connecting the clasp to theb ra ce le t s ev era l tim e s. T ie s ev er al h alf-h itch knots (se e "B asics") a nd do t w ithg lue . W eave in the ta i I. R ep ea t o n th eo pp os ite e nd .

    MATERIAlS 59 J a pa nese c yl inder beads(DelicasJ.main

    color [Me) 19 Japanese cyl inderbeads(Delicas),accentco lor(ACI

    1 1 - 1 3 M ty u k i s q ua r e beads. iz e 3 N ymo O f PowerP m beadingcord in match ingro lor b ea din gneedtes, '10

    be esw axO f ThreadHea~n for Nymo m a g r n :r ic d a s p 5 a ~ lY chainand 2 j ump r ingsTool s: cha inn= p li er s

    8se pliers to open a ju m p ri ng (see"B as ic s"). 5 1id e it o nto th e m ag ne ticc lasp 's loop. T hen slide an end lin k ofthe safety cha in into the ring. C lose thelo op ( ph o to fl. Repeat on the other endof the brace le t. - Rae Ann Wojahn

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    Two-need lepeyo te sta r tH ow m any tim es have you tried to

    s ta rt a peyo te stitch pro ject and fou ndyou rse lf w ith a ta ng le d m ess, vow ingyou 'll neve r try to do pe yo te stitcha ga in? If yo u're lik e m ost, it's h ap pe ne dm ore than once. H ere 's a handy two-n ee dle te cn n iq ue th at w orks g re at. T hism ethod bu ilds the first three row s a tonce. Y ou 'll be thrilled at how easy itm a ke s s ta rtin g a p ey ote p ro je ct-e ve nin th e m id dle .N ote : th ese d ire ctio ns a re fo r p eyo testitch ing from the bottom up . To peyotestitch from the top down, transpose row1 a nd row 3 so that row 1 is on top.o Th rea d tw o ne ed le s o nto a singlethre ad , one at ea ch end.@ Pick up two beads: a row 1 bead onthe bottom need Ie and a row 3 bead onthe top need le . S lide them bo th to thecente r o f the thread s itting side by side(figu re 1).I)Pick up the next row 2 bead andpass both needles through it a t thesam e tim e in the sam e direction. Pu IIthe bead next to the firs t two beads(figu re 2).e Pick up two beads, the next row 3bead on the top needle a nd the row 1bead on the bo ttom needle, and pullthem next to the si ng le bead w ith 1 1 3above ' 1. Y ou m ay need to pe rsuadeth e be ad s to s it p rop erly by h old ingbo th thre ad s and gen tly pu sh ing the mtow ard the sing le bead (figu re 3). K eepa n e ve n te ns io n.0 1 R epea t steps 3 and 4 until the p ieceis as w ide a s ne ed ed .o Fo r e ve n-co un t fla t p eyo te : Endw ith a sing le bead as in figu re 2 . D ropthe bottom needle and use the top oneas the working thread to begin row 4(fig ure 4 ).f) For odd coun t fla t peyote : End w ithtwo beads as in figure 3 . Pass theneedle from row 3 into the last bead ofrow 1, heading back toward the w ork.

    T ie th is thread off o r use it la te r. P a ssthe needle from row 1 into the lastbead o f row 3, heading back tow ardthe work and use it to begin row 4(figu re 5).01 F or e ve n-co s n t tu bu la r p eyo te :B u i Id th e fi rst three row s as fo r even-coun t fla t peyo te . Make a tube byb rin gin g th e be ginn in g be ad s a ro un dto m ee t the last bead added . Make sureth e strip isn 't tw iste d. Th en p ass th ebottom need le th roug h the firs t beadin row 1 a nd the top need le th roughthe first bead in row 3. K no t the bottomth rea d arou nd th e th rea d betw ee nbeads 'Iand #2. U se the top need leas the working thread to beg in row 4(figu re 6 ).o F or o dd -co unt tu bu ta r p eyo te :B u ild th e first three rows as fo r odd -coun t fla t peyote. Jo in in to a tube asa bo ve , bu t p ass bo th ne ed le s th ro ug hthe first bead in row 3. K no t the bottomth rea d a ro und th e thre ad betw ee nbeads '3 and ' 2 . U se the top need leto begin row 4 (figure 7)- B orbora L G ra in ger

    f ig u r e 4

    f i g u r e 5

    f i g u r e 6

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    Snake tra il brace le t

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    T h is b ra ce le t g ets its s erp en tin ewaves by contrasting the round shapeof a seed bead w ith a sl ightly la rgers qu are -sh a p ed bead in th is si mple even-count fla t peyo te -stitch pa ttern . Thesquare prof Ie of the beads in thetriang le inse ts fo rces the round seedbe ad s to cu rve to accorn m od ate th em ,g iv ing the brace le t its undulating shape.

    U se beads of various sizes to m akethese brace le ts, bu t try to keep the beadcho ices no more than one or two sizesapart. F or the green and go ld brace le ta t lower le ft, s ize 1 0 " se ed be ad s a repaired with s ize 8' h ex-c ut be ad s. T hep ink and bu rgundy brace le t is m adew ith size 110 seed beads and size 10tw isted hex beads, The burgu ndybrace le t is m ade w ith size 11" seedbe ad s a nd size 10" tria n g I e b ea ds. T hela rge-sca le silve r cu ff is m ade w ith size6" seed beads and size S" c ub e b ea ds.o Thread a need le w ith 2 y d. (1 .8m )o f cond itioned N ym o B doubled.D oubling the th read fills the bead ho lesand m akes it easie r to keep the tensionta ut so the sm alle r beads w i II curvea round the la rger beads.8o llow ing the pattern be low , beg ina n even-count, fla t peyo te piece (see"Basics," p. 5J. Note : th e pattern ;ss id ewa ys . B e g in n in g in th e u pp er le ft-h and corner. str ing 12 s m all-s iz ed b ea dsfo r ra ws 1 and 2 . U se the la rge beadsfo r the triangu la r insets and the sm allbeads fo r the background . K eep thetension snug as you stitch.@ ) S titc h th e tria ng le re pe at u n ti I th ebrace le t fi ts com fortably around you rwrist. T h is w i II va ry accord i ng to thebe ad size s yo u c ho ose .o To make a clasp , choose acoordina ting button or la rge beada nd sew it to the cente r o f one endof the bracelet. (A I te rna tive ly, you canuse tw o sm aller buttons, spacing themevenly a t the end of the brace le t.l

    M A T E R I A L S 109 sew' beads 1 09 h ex -c ut, c ub e. o r tr ia ng le b ea ds(one or two bead s ze s la rgc r tlla n th e!WI beads)

    lor 2 but to ns o r l ar ge l >eac lsfo r c la sp N ymo 8 beading t hread beesw ax beading n eedles , "0 or , 2

    Reinfo rce the button a ttachm ent bysew ing th rough it severa l tim es. Z igzagth rough the beads to end your th reada nd trim .@ ) ! To make a loop fo r the button,start a new thread at the o ther endof th e bra ce le t, zig za gg in g th ro ug hthe beads to secure the end. Exit th elast bead on the brace le t's edge . Stringan even number o f beads to crea te aloop la rge enough to go around theb utto n s nu gly . (If you use two buttons,m ake two loops by sewing th roughthe centra l "up" bead on the end ofth e bracelet)(5 ) Sew through the end bead on theother edge of the brace le t. tu rn andbegin to peyote stitch back a long thelo op 's b ea ds ( ph oto ).f)Add another row of peyo te stitchfo r a to ta l o f four rows. (The beadsstrung fo r the loop a r e the firs t tw orows.l S titch back into the beadw ork,zigzagging to secure the th read befo retrim ming it. - Kay A. Hutch i son

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    Tighten the thread so the beads sitaga inst the band. G o up through thesebeads and back down again. W eaveback through the peyote section andexit a t e ither edge of the end row.o Continue m aking peyote tubes andflat sections until the brace let is thed es ir ed le ng th . Us e the last aba lone andpear l embel li shmen t fo r you r c lasp.- Ke l ly N icodemus-Mi ll e r

    MATER IA lS 8 00 s te rlin g tu be b ea ds ,S x 1 .5mm(avai lable from Rio Grande,www.riogrande_com,800-545-6566)

    18 6m m round pearls 9 b utt on -s ha pe d ( fl at -bo ttom) s ide -dr i lled pear ls

    9 abalone nugget s (avai lablefromShipw re ck Beads . 800- 950- 4232 ) o rother center-dr il led accent beads,approx12 x 15mm

    F l: >werP ro bead' n 9 cord or Firel ine f ishingl ine, &-Ib. test

    beadi n9 needles, ,. 1 0 G-S Hypo Cemen t o r c le a r na il p o lish

    d

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    P e y o t e - f r a m e dp e a r l b r a c e le tFram e a rnabe pearl w ith a peyote-

    stitch bea d be zel, e mbellish it w ithpearls, and then attach it to a band o ffive-d rop peyote . Sew on a snap to usea s y ou r b ra ce le t's c la sp .M A B E P E A R L B E Z E L,0 Apply a th in , even layer of cem entto the back of the mabe pe arl and g luethe pea rl to the U ltrasuede . Set it aside10 dry.f}T rim th e ultrasuede, leavingap proxim ate ly". in . (3m m ) arou ndthe pe arl's ed ge. S titch th ro ugh th eUltrasuede seve ra l tim es to ancho r you rth rea d. W ith th e U ltra sue de fac ing you ,p ick up a bead and stitch through thefa brlc so the bead is para lle l to andabout 'I" in . (2m m) from the edge(photo a). G o th rough the bead aga i n.t) C ontin ue w ith tw o-b ea d ba ckstitc h( see "Basi cs ," p, 5) to sew beads a r ou ndthe edge of the U llrasuede un til you 'reback at the sta rting po in t (photo b). G othrough a few beads a long th is baserow . (This coun ts as rows 1 and 2.)o Work in p eyo te s titch (se e "B asics,"p . 5) around the base row until you 'reback a t the sta rt. (Th is is row 3.)o If the bead coun t for row 3 is even,step up to start the next row (see"B asics "). If th e co u n t is o dd , co ntin ue

    w ithout the step-up . As you stitch . row4, d ec re ase (s ee "B as ics") th re e o r fo urbe ad s eq ua lly spa ce d a ro und the pe arl.o S tep up (even count) o r sim plycontinue (odd count) stitch ing to sta rtthe fifth and fina I ro w. A s yo u stitch ,p lace two beads in each decrease m adein the p revious row .e D ete rm ine where you want to p lacethe teardrop pea r l e m b e l l ish me nt. S ewthrough the beads in row 5 until youreach your desired sta rting po in t andexit an "up " bead a long the last peyo terow . P ick up two beads, a te a r d r oppearl, and tw o beads. S titch in to thenext "up" bead (pho to e ) . Repe a t u n tilyo u've e mbe llish ed a pp ro xim ate ly h alfth e rnabe pea rl' s pe rime t er .o Turn a nd co ntinu e the e mbellish-m ent a long row 3. Secu re the th read inth e b ea dwo rk .BANDo W ork w ith a long strand o f thread ,waxed and doub led , but don 't kno tth e ta ils .8educt 1 in . (2 .5cm ) from yourw rist m easurem ent. P ick up thea rnou n t of beads to equa I th is leng th,then add or remove beads until thecou n t is a mu lti p ie o f 10. [Y ou cana djust the fi n is he d le ngth sl ig h t ly

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    when you assemble the bracelet andattach the snaps.) 5 1 ide the beads toabout 6 in. (15cm) from the tail ends.8ork in five-drop peyote. asfollows: pick up five beads. skip fivebeads, and go th rough the next fivebeads (figure). Repeat across the row.eContinue until you have a tots I of13 rows. The band will be just under'h-in. (1.3cm) wide. Stitch additionalrows if you prefer a wider ba n d, endi ngwith an odd number of rows.) With your thread exiting a "down"set of beads at the end of the last row,pick up two beads, a pearl, and twobeads and stitch through the five highbeads in the neighboring set (photo d).Continue making pearl picots acrossthe row.o When you reach the end of the firstside, zigzag through to the other side ofthe bracelet. Repeat step 5, adding pearlpicots on the other edge of the band.Secure the thread in the beadwork.ASSEMBLYo Start a new thread and exit a cornerbead at the band's edge just below apearl picot.@ Pick up a bead and go through thefive-bead drop below the top corner(photo e). Turn and go back to the edgethrough the five-bead group below it.Repeat twice, addi ng a total of threebeads along the band's short edge.8eyote stitch across the newlyadded beads (photo f). If you needto increase the band's length, adda few more peyote rows. Go throughthese beads again severaI ti mes toreinforce them.e Stitch the band to a few beads onthe unembellished section of the mabepearl (photo g). Go throughthese beads several times to reinforcethe stitches and secure the th read inthe beadwork.

    CLASPo Stitch half the snap onto the end ofthe bracelet band (photo h, left).fJ Before you stitch the other snaphalf onto the l l l t rasuede, check the fitagain. Position the snap for the mostcomfortable fit, then sew it into place(photo h, right). Glue all the knots andtrim any th read tails.- Jane t F lynn

    dMATERIAlS-NARROW BRACE lETS Ma~ pearl approlt 1'" in. (3cm)diameter 109 J a pa n es e cy l i nd er b e ad s 38-44 teardrop pearls U lt r a s u e de N ymo 0 bead in g t hr ea d b ee sw ax o r T hre ad H eav en be ad ing n ee dl es , ' 10 medi um -s iz ed metalsnap barge cementorE6000glue

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    Peyote stitch is a favorite amongmany beaders. It's versatile and createsan attractive woven appearance. Thisbracelet maintains the smooth look offlat peyote, but has added depth andthe look of a fabricated piece of jewelry.Build the pevote-wi ndow bead in th re estages: Work a peyote piece ten beadswide by ten rows to create the firsttube. Build the second tube as anextension of the first by working atwo-bead by ten-row strip at eachend of tube # 1. Finally, make the thirdtube full-size and attach it to thesecond tube at each end. This braceletusesfive window beads and is 7 in.(lacm) long, including the clasp, Youwill need five to seven window beads,depending on how long you want tor na k e you r bracelet.MAKE THE WINDOW BEADo Thread a needle with 24 in. (61cm)of Nymo. String a cyl inder bead and gothroug h it again in the same direction,leavi ng a 4-in. (lOcm) tail.6String nine more beads and workeven-count flat peyote (see "Basics,"p. 5) for a total of ten rows (countingdiagonally) (photo a),eAfter you complete the last row,remove the extra thread loop on thefirst bead and weave in the tail. Roll thepiece into a tube and stitch through thehigh beads, alternating between thefirst and last rows (photo b) . Ziglagback through the joining row again.o Create tube 1 1 2 as an extension ofthe fi rst tube (see figure). Come outthrough a bead at the right-hand endof the tube (figure, point a), pick up abead (photo c), and sew through thebead at point b on tube 1 1 1 , exiting atpoint c. Add another bead. Working inpeyote, add a strip two beads wide byten rows. When you've added the tenthbead, zigzag back down the stripfrom point d.o Roll the strip into a tube andzip it closed by zigzagging between thetwo beads on tube III where the stripbegan and the last two beads of thestrip (photos d-f). End by exiting thelast bead on the strip (photo f andpoint e).o Weave across the tube from point fto point g (photo g). Repeat steps 4and 5 sta rting at point g (photo h).

    In photo i, both parts of tube 1 1 2are complete.fj Ma ke tube 1 1 3 by repeating steps 1through 3.o Zip tube #3 to tube 1 1 2 (photo j) toform a peyote-window bead.STRINGTHE BRACELETo Determine the finished length of thebracelet, add 4 in. (10cm), and cut threepieces of flexible beading wire to thatlength. Attach one end of each wire tothe clasp using a crimp bead for eachl s e e "8asics" 1 .6Oneach strand, string a 2mm silverbead, a 4mm fire-polished bead, a flatspacer, a fire-polished bead, a flatspacer. a fire-polished bead, and a flatspacer,covering both the wire and itstail (photo k}.) Passthe two outer wires throughthe outer tubes on a window bead.Stri n9 the middle wire th rough the fi rstpart of the center tube. Inside thewindow, string a 15" silver seed bead,

    a flat spacer,a fire-polished bead,a flat spacer,a nd a 15" seed.Passthewire through the second part of thetube (photo I) . (N ote : th e 1~ seedb ea ds w e re omitted in o u r p ho to .)o String a flat spacer.a fire-polishedbead, a flat spacer, a fire-polished bead,and a flat spacer.) Repeat steps 3-4 for the length ofthe bracelet. After the last windowbead, string the starting group inreverse.Thread a crimp bead, then gothrough the loop on the other clasppart. Go back through the crimp andseveral beads,snug up the beads, andcrimp the crimp bead.- Rae Ann Wojahn

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    M A T E R I A L S 5 9 slze 1 1 " J ap an es e c ylin dfr b(a ds 47-59 4mm Cze ch fire-poli5hed crystals 64-86 4mm fiat sterling silver daisyspacer beads

    6 2m m sterling s il ll fl spaeerbeads 10-14 size 15" ~ ed beads. silver flexible b(ading wire, .Q12-.019 Nymo B b(ading thread bee swa x or T h read Heaven bea din g nee dle s. N 10 or 12 toggle clasp 6c rimp beadsTools: crim ping or cha inn ose p liers.

    wi r e cu tt er s

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    peyote bracelet

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    note w here the ho les on the spacer barsa lign w ith the hex beads.f) B ri ng th e n ee dle on th e firstp latfo rm out the hex bead tha t a Iignsw ith the top ho le on the spacer bar. P ickup a hex bead. go through the ho le onthe bar. p ick up another hex bead, andgo in to the sam e hex bead on these con d p la tfo rm (p ho to g ).) W eave the need le back and forth inthe second p la tfo rm so you can go backout the sam e hex bead you entered . G oth ro ug h th e be ad s a nd s pa ce r b ar a ndin to the bead from which you began onthe firs t p latfo rm (photo h ].o Wea ve o ve r o n th e firs t p la tfo rmand exit the hex bead tha t a ligns w iththe center ho le o f the bar. P ick upa hex bead, go through the bar, p icku p an oth er h ex b ea d, a nd e nte r th eap pro pria te h ex b ea d o n th e se co ndp la tfo rm . R ep ea t s te p 3 .o R epeat step 4 go ing throug h thebottom ho le on the bar. If you have atleast ts in . (46cm ) of th read left. do notend it. If a short length rem ains. end itand begin a new one.o Rep ea t s te ps 2 -5 to c on ne ctth e se co nd s pac er b ar an d the th irdp la tfo rm to th e s ec on d p la tfo rm .

    e

    MAK ING TH E BUTTON LOO Po Go b ac k to p la tfo rm # 1 a nd w ea vearound the p la tfo rm to exit the hexbead on the other edge tha t a lig nsw ith the bottom ho le on the th irdspacer bar. P ick up a hex bead. gothrough the ho le on the bar, and stringen o u 9 h 1 1 1 1 seed beads to m a ke a loopth at fits ov er th e b utto n.f) Sew through the top ho le o f thespacer bar, pick up a hex bead. andenter the appropria te hex bead on thep la tfo rm ( ph oto i].We av e th e n ee dleback and forth to exit the sam e hexbead and go back through the spacerbar and loop to re in fo rce them .eWea ve th e n ee dle th ro ug h th ep la tfo rm to exit the hex bead tha ta ligns w ith the center ho le on thebar. P ick up a hex bead. go through thecenter ho le . stri ng a stop bead (an 1 1 1 lor a 1 4 1 1 ) . Skip the stop bead and 90b ack th ro ug h th e ho le . W ea ve then ee dle in to th e p la tfo rm to s ecu reth e th re ad b efo re cu tti n g it.ATTAC HIN G TH E BU TTO No Mak e a sm all p ey ote -s titc h p la tfo rmw ith h ex b ea ds ..T his p la tfo rm n ee dsto be long enough to attach a spacer

    9

    MATERIALS size 89 hex -c ut seed beads ( tw is ted

    or p la i nl size l1 Q and 14-15 s ee d b ea ds . o ne o r

    tw o c olo rs in e ach size 4 th re e-h ole sp ace r ba rs, a pp ro x.'/,-1 x 'A . in. (2-2.5c m x 1cm )

    3 cabochons, 18 x 13mm 45-50 small stone chips Nymo B beading thread b ee sw axo r Thr ead Heaven be ad ing ne ed le s. * 12 sh ank bu tto n

    bar but just a few beads w ide (here .six) so you can sew a button onto it.f) C onnect the sm all p la tfo rm and thefo urth sp ace r b ar a s d es crib ed in" co nn ec tin g th e p la tfo rm s ."eW eave over the sm all p la tfo rm tothe place w here you w ant the button.Then sew through the button shank andh ex b ea ds se ve ra l tim es to se cu re it(photo j), If d es ir ed . a dd th re e-b ea dtrim betw een pa irs o f beads a long theedge of the button p la tfo rm . W eave theth re ad s ec ure ly in to th e p la tfo rm b efo recutting it . - Cher i L yn n W a ltz

    ~tt S ti tc h B e a d in g PrQjcro 35

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    W ood rosenecklaceBeaded flow ers are a great w ay to affirm you r love of gardening

    and beading, and they're exqu isite when m ade w ith size 150 seedbeads. Som e peop le th ink size 159s are fa r too sma ll to work w ith ,though . so I adapted m y techn ique to size 110 b ea ds . A tta ch y ou rflo ra I crea tions to a "fie ld of g reen" necklace and plant a grassygarden o f flow ers around them .

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    MAKE TH E WOOD ROSEo Thre ad a ne ed le w ith 7 ft. (2 .1 m ) o fN ym o. S tring 20 flower-color seedbe ads, lea ving a 1-yd . 1.9m ) ta il. T ie th eworking thread and ta il togethe r in afirm sq uare knot (se e "Ba sics," p . 5)arou nd a dowel. Sew through the firstbe ad stru ng a ga in .8titch th re e ro ws o f e ve n-co un t,c i rcu la r pe yote (see "Ba sics") fo r a to ta lo f five rows. (The first two rows a re th ebe ads strung in step 1.) S tep up on thefifth row as if you were go ing to adda n oth er ro w.6) Pick u p th ree be ads and stitchth rough the next bead in the fifthrow of peyote again (photo a). Repea tto a dd three -be ad "pe ta ls" betw eeneach bead in the fifth row fo r a to ta lo f te n p eta ls.0' S titch into th e e xte rio r s u r fa c e o fth e pre viou s (fou rth ) pe yote ro w. Addf ive-bead peta Is be tw ee n ea ch be adin th is ro w.o Rem ove the beadwork from thed ow el. S titc h in to a nearby bead in theth ird row of peyote, exiting w ith yourneedle inside the sleeve. S tri ng an Bm mbead a nd sew th rough a th i rd-row beadopposite the bead exited to ancho r theSm m bead in the sleeve (photo b) . Sewback through the Smm bead and theseed bead on the opposite side aga i n .Repea t to secure the Sm m bead .o Sew through ano ther bead on theth ird row, exiting on the outside o f thes le ev e. S titc h s ev en -b ea d p eta lsbetween the beads in th is row (photoc ) . Sew th rough the beads in the nextIw o peyo te rows to secure the th read.Don ' t cut th is tail, II w i II be u se d la te rto secure the flower to the base.

    MAKE TH E BASEU se Fire line fo r the ba se and necklaces tra nd s fo r e xtra d ura bility .o Th rea d a nee dle w ith 7 ft. o f N ym oo r F ire lin e. S trin g six gre en se ed be ad s,lea ving a 4'/ '-ft. (U m) tail,8u rn a nd stitch a p anel o f eve n-co unt fla t p eyo te (se e "Basics") w ith 30rows. D on't trim the ta il.6) Rep ea t s te p 1. Stitch a s ec on d fla t.even-cou nt peyo te panel w ith 20 rows . .0' Thread a needle on the 4 '{,-ft. ta il o fth e la rg e peyote p anel. S tring S-9 in .(20-23cm ) o f g reen see d be ads (ph otod). Repea t w ith the sm all peyote pane l.o End the strands w ith e ithe r a largebead and loop closure o r bead tips anda cla sp a s d escribe d be lo w:

    To m ake a bead and loop closu re,string a 6mm bead , an Smm bead, andfou r seed beads on one strand . Skipthre e see d bea ds and sew back thro ugha seed bead and the la rge beads.T igh ten so the th ree seed beads forma pico t. To make a loop on the seconds tr and , s tr in g a 6mm , an Smm , andenough seed beads for a loop la rgeenough to go over the Smm bead.S tring th ree extra see d be ads. Se w backth rough the fi rs t th re e se ed be ad s a ndthe la r ge r beads to m a ke th e loo p. T ie afew ha lf-h itch knots between beads onthe strand and sew back in to thepe yote pa ne l. R ep ea t th e th rea d p athfo r s e cu r it y.

    To use a clasp, string a bead tip anda seed bead , sew back th rough the beadtip , and tighten (p ho to e). C lo se th ebead tips over the beads a nd useroundnose pi lers to g en tly c u r ve th ehooks o f the bead tips a rou nd the loopo f th e clasp (p ho to f).o Sew back th rough the strand andzigzag th rough the peyo te panel tosecure the th read. Exit the bead next towhere the strand is jo ined (pho to g).f) Position bo th panels in a V-shape sothat the longer one is the po int andboth ne ckla ce strands a re a t th e insidetop o f the panels as in photo h .o Thread a need le on the thread ta ilo f th e s rna l le r p ey ote p an el. S ti tc hbe tween the beads in the end row o fth e sm a II pane l and the beads at th e

    M A T E R I A L S 8m m round bead or pearl 15g Sill' 110seedbeads,g~n 1 0 9 s i z e n" seed beads, f lo ra l co lor a ss orte d 4-Gmm f lower beads ~in. (tem]diameterdowel Nymo D beading thread or Firelinefishing l ine,4- or 6 - 1 b . test

    b e e s w a x orTh readH e a v e n fo r N ymo be ad in g nee dle s,# 13 clasp and 2 be. d t i p s or 2 6mm and2 8mm rou nd be ads f o r l oopc lasp

    T o o ls : r o u n dn o s e p li e r s

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    edge o f the la rg .e pane l to jo in them(pho to h). Z igzag th rough the peyotepane l to s e c u r e th e th re ad .EMBELL ISH THE PANELo B eg in e mbe llish ing th e p ane l e ndsw ith lea f shapes. U se the th read ta ilsrema ln i n 9 f rom stri n gi; ng e a ch n ec kla cestra nd a nd stitch a le af as fo llow s:

    a . P ick u p se ve n be ads. Skip th e las tbead strunq and go back throug h then ex t b ea d (fig ur e 1, a-b) .

    b . P ick up five beads and sewth rough the last bead exited on thebase and the firs t bead strung (figure 1,b-e),

    c. P ick up three beads and sew upthe fifth bead on the le ft s ide andth rough the fifth bead on the righ t s ide(fig ure 2, a -b).

    d . Sew back th rough the three beadsjust added a nd th rough the fi rst be adon the righ t side of the lea f a nd theb as e b e ad ( fig ur e 2, b-e].f} Add a lea f to each bead on the endrow s o f each panel. Z igzag through thep a n e l to secu re the th read and trim .) Thread a needle to a rem ain ing ta ilwhe re the panel's are jo ined o r sta rl anew th re ad at th e p ane l's p oin t. S titcha leaf a t the po i n t d,nd on each side o fit (pho to i).

    eThread a needle on to the 3-ft. te ilon the wood rose . Position the flower atthe cente r o f the V -shaped pane l andstitch it in p lace (photo j) .o S titch tw o leaves to each side o fth e flow er .o Add flower bead and seed beadfringes to the s ides of the panel. S tr in .ga fe w se ed be ads, a flo we r be ad, a ndanothe r seed bead . Skip the last beadand sew back th rou9'h the beads to thep ane l. M ak e s om e gra ss y frin ge s, 100,w ithout flow er beads. C ontinue toem be llish the pane l un til you a res atis fie d. - Diane Benton

    f ig u re I

    . . . - - . . ,

    . 1' i - _ If igure 2

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    Captivec a B o c h o n s

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    If you want to use a cabochon as apendant bu t don 't wan t to a ttach it to aba cking , use th is te chn iq ue fo r m akinga ba ckle ss b ez ele d ca bo ch on . M ake aring of even-count peyo te stitch tha tbeg ins w ith a c irc le a little sm aller(a bo u t 20 pe rce nt) th an th e c ircu mfe r-ence o f the back of the cabochon . Asyou work ou t arou nd the ring , ad justthe thread tension so the ring rerna i nsfla t. W hen the headwork placedbe ne ath th e c a bo ch on e xte nd s a littlebeyond the edges o f the stone , w orktighter rows until the fram e overlapsthe top o f the stone enough to ho ld itin p lace w ithou t g lue .o Thread a need le w ith about 2 yd.(1 .8m ) of N ym o B, D oub le the th reada nd wax it. P ick up 60 s ize 11Q seedb ea d s, No re. S elect sm o I I beads for th isfirs t ro w , Tie the ends togethe r w i th asqua re kno t [see "Basics: p . 5) , forminga t ight ei re te a nd leaving a 6- i n . (15cm)ta il. T ens io n is critica l in th is p ro je ct,a nd th e circ le sho uld be th e tighte strow of a ll (photo a).t} G o through the first bead a fter thekno t and work peyo te stitch a round thec irc le (s ee "B as ic s" ). T he te ns io n s ho uldnow be snug but no t tight. H o ld thebea ds betw ee n you r fingers as yo utigh ten them to he lp keep the work fla ta nd to p re ve nt o ve rtig hte nin g (p ho to b) .o O n e ve ry s uc ce ss iv e ro w , th e te ns io nw ill be a Iittle looser in o rder to keep thew ork fla t. A fte r e ve ry ro w, sha pe thep iece aga inst the bo ttom o f the cab andch eck the size. The las t ro w, h ere th ese ve nth, w ill e xtend a t lea st h alf a be adbeyond the edge of the cab (pho to c).W hen using two colors , you m ay want towork the last row in the second co lo r tog iv e a v is ua l re fe re nc e,o After com pleting the last row ,weave the th read back in to thebe ad wo rk to anch or it secure ly. M aketwo or th ree ha lf-h itch knots (see"Bas ic s ") b e tween beads a s y ouw eave in th e thre ad .) Start a new 2-yd . doubled , waxedth re ad , w ea ving it se cure ly into thepiece. Com e out a bead on the las t row .From th is po int on, you 'll pu ll andtighten the th read afte r eve ry bead,so now is a good ti m e to t a k e abrea k a nd do a few ha nd a n d w ris te xe rc ise s. O nc e yo u s ta rt sh a p ing ,

    it's h ard to sto p u ntil yo u're fin ish ed.o H o ld the cabochon on top o f thep iece so you can form the bead w orkaround its sides. Don 't put too m uchtension on the outside un til you 'veadded two m ore rows and th e beadworkis com ing up the sides (photo d ).e As you bead around the edge o fthe cab, keep the tens ion as tigh t aspossib le . W hen you near the uppe red ge , se le ct sm alle r bea ds to he lp bringth e b e a di n 9 in o v e r the top (pho to e).Y ou 'll be able to te ll by fee l when youhave com ple ted enough rows to ho ldthe sto ne se cu re ly, Few er ro ws arebetter, but m ake su re you have enoughrows to hold the cab. Because o f shape,th ickn ess , cu rv atu re , a nd p olish , e achs to ne r eq u ir es a diffe ren t num ber o fro ws fo r se cu rity .) A fte r com ple ting the last row , goback th rough it aga i n, fo il ow i ng the

    pe yo te stitch pa tte rn (p hoto f). Thissecond th read pass is im portant to helpmaintain the tension on the cab, sotigh ten it ca refu lly as you go to keepit from breaking . W eave the threadinto the bead w ork away from the edgeto se cure it. The n trim .

    H igh ligh t your cabochon in ane ckla ce , a s p ictu red o n the o pp os itepage . I worked m y beze le d sto ne in toa rope o f D utch spira l. wh ich I learnedfrom Anna Maria Garc ia . - E li sa Co ss ey

    M A T E R I A L S 30 x 40m m oval cabochon (stone or g lass) size 11 C zech sc~ beads in one or

    tw o co lo rs (fo r bezel only) N ymo tle ad in g th rea d. size B ,or Silamide beesw ax for Nymo tle ad in g needles ,112 or 13

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    HE LP FU L H IN T S Put beesw ax on the end of Sllam idebead thread to make threading eas ier. K eep tension even and tig h t. W atch ou t for th e thread hookingitself a round another bead as you stitch . W hen dOing radica l increases in th eru ffle, cu ll th roug h the beads to findtw o th in beads for the tw o-beadincrea se . On the nex t row , use a th inbead betw een each tw o-bead increa se .This leaves less of a g ap, w hich makesth e in cre ase s le ss n otic ea ble . D on 't use b la ck or cut beads w henyou firs t try th is projec t. T hey 're ha rdto see . The size va ria tion of Czech seed beadsw orks w ell for ra dica l lncreasinq, Theeffec t w ill be differen t w ith Ja pa nesec yli n de r b ea ds . Thread color should ma tch bead color.Choose the la rg est s ize th a t w ill f itth roug h your beads three times. U se "sharps" needles to sew throug hlea ther. long beading needles tend tobend and break too ea sily .

    F irst mount th e cabochon on lea ther.U ltra suede, or Stiff-Stuff. Sta rt th ebezel w ith a row of ba cksti tch andcom ple te it w ith severa l row s of peyotestitch . N ext insta ll the pin ba ck. Thenw ork a bou t 12 row s of peyote sti tchw ith radica l in crea ses. F in ish w ith as im ple e dg i ng .PR EPA R E T HE CAB O CHONo Pla ce the cabochon on a sma ll pieceof lea ther or other ba ck ing . M arka round the cabochon w ith a pen ,f ollow i ng its c on tou r. (No te : I ft hec ab oc ho n i s s m a ll, c ut th e le ath erb ac ki ng l ar g e e no u g h to accommodat eth e l en g th of th e p in b oc k.)8pply a m ulti-purpose cem entto the back of the cabochon and thesurfa ce of the lea ther inside the penline . L et the g lue se t up for 5-10 min.T hen press the g lued su rfa ces tog ether.Cut out the lea ther a round theca boch on a bou t 't. in . (3m m) fromthe edg e (photo a ) . B e carefu l to leaveenoug h w idth to accommodate thew idth of the first row of beads. It'sbe tter to leave too much w idth tha tcan be trimm ed la ter.@ ) Place the cabochon on the w rongside of another piece of lea ther, tra ce

    a round it, a nd cut it ou t. R eserve th ispiece for th e brooch 's backing .S TIT CH THE B E Z ELo Thread a "sha rps" needle w ith about1 yd. (.9 m) of sin gle th rea d. T ie tw oknots, one on top of th e other, a t oneend. (If you prefer to w ork w ith dou bledthread, you may do so a fter the firstrow.) Iburn the tip of th e thread tom ake a little b a I I beside th e knot. If theba ll sizzles up in to the knot sta rt over.t} Pa ss th e needle throug h the lea therfrom back to fron t bes ide the cabochon.W ork the first row in tw o-beadbackstitch ( se e "B a si cs ," p. 5).@ ) Con tinue a round the ba se of thecabochon. W hen you g et to the las tstitch , you w an t to be able to fill th eg ap w ith tw o beads. If necessa ry ,choose narrow er or w ider beads for thela st few stitches so tha t tw o beads w illfit. Take a norm al back stitch but a lsocontinue th roug h the first bead of therow . You are now ready to sta rt thesecond row .e R ow 2 is th e first row of peyotestitch (see 'Basics"]. Pick up a bead,skip the next bead on the base row , andg o throug h the nex t bead (photo b) .Continue around, adding a beadthroug h every other bead on the ba serow . K eep the tens ion very tig h t a ndpull the new row of beads up on to theside of th e ca boch on .o W hen you g et to the end of the row ,

    pa ss th e needle throug h the first beadof the base row and the first bead ofrow 2. This puts you in position to beg inrow 3 (photo c).(5 ) D epending on the s ize and shape ofthe ca bochon, you 'll e ither w ork pla inpeyote stitch for row 3, or you 'll need todo an ev en number of evenly spa ceddecrea ses (see "B a sics"). Som etim es ju stusing th inner beads w ill a ccomplish thesam e th ing a s decrea si ng .o R ow 4 w ill proba bly req uire a neven num ber of rea l decrea ses ev en lyspaced a round the cabochon. Todecrease , pass your needle throug h thenex t bead in sequence w ithout addinga b ea d (se e " B as ic s") .o R ow 5 is the la st row . U se acon tras tin g bead color or keep the colorthe sa m e. Pla ce one bea d in ea ch sti tch .W hen you reach the pla ces w here youdecrea sed in row 4, e ither add a veryw ide bead or tw o skinny ones to fill th eg ap (photo d) . G o throug h al l th e bea dsof row s 4 and 5 ag B i n w ithout addingbeads to tig hten and streng then theedg e of the bezel. W eav e and tie yourthread in to the bead w ork.IN ST AL L T H E PIN B A CKo Pla ce the pin ba ck above the m id-line on the rig h t side of the secondpiece of lea ther. M ark both ends of thepin back on the lea ther and punch sma llh oles or cu t sm all slits th ere .@ Open the pin back and pla ce th e

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    " c a b o c h o nf igure I

    -j~~Q Q Q

    f igure 2

    Qf i gure3

    edging

    f igure 4 beeinI". te dg in g r o wwrong side of the leathe r over it. Pushthe p i n th rough one hole a nd the catchthroug h the othe r (photo e). If you 'reusing a pin back w ith a bail, punch ath ird hole where the bail connects tothe pi n back and sl it the leathe r fromthe top edge down to th is ho le . Pushthe bail through the ho le .@ If ne ce ssa ry, trim th e e dge a ro un dthe cabochon , be ing ca refu l to not cu ta n y th read s. Th e ru ffle cove rs so mebacking overlap. App ly ce ment to theback of the cabochon and the wrongside of the leathe r p i us p in back.o Le t the g lue set up for 5-10 m in.T he n p re ss th e tw o p ie ce s to ge th er.M AK E TH E RU FFLEF or yo u r first bro och , u se a d iffe re ntco lo r bead fo r each of the first th reerow s. Th is he lps yo u se e w he re th ebeads are in the p revious row so you 'll

    know where to take the next stitch . Ifthe bead holes are large enough , used ou ble d th re ad .o Weave a new thread in to thebead w ork bezel so tha t it exits oneof the "down" beads (c losest to thebacki ng) o f the base row.8ow 1 : S tring two beads and gothrough the next "down" bead . Repea ta ll the way around the base row (figure1) Pull a fter each stitch to keep thetension as tig ht as possible so that thenext ro w d oe sn't ge t d eform ed . A fte radd ing the last two beads o f the row ,go through the first base -row beadaga in and the fi rst bead added in thef ir st s tit ch .8R ow 2: Th e rad ica l incre ase be ginson th is row . Add one bead, go th roughthe next bead, add two beads, gothrough the next bead (photo f).Repeat a ll the way around the row .P lace ea ch single-be ad stitch in them idd le of each two-bead stitch onrow 1 (figure 2). End th is row bypa ssing th e need le th ro ugh the first beado f row 1 and the first bead o f row 2.o R ow 3: To com plete the rad ica lincre ase , a dd o ne b ea d p er stitchpassing the needle through each beado f row 2. This is harde r than it sounds.F igure 3 m akes the p rocess look fla t,but the beadw ork undu lates so m uchtha t it is often difficu lt to determ inewh ich is the next bead on row 2(pho to g).

    e 9o Rows 4-12: Continue to add onebead per stitch a round eve ry row . If youwa nt to make the brooch ruffle more ,add two beads pe r stitch whereve r youchoose in the row. O n the subsequen trow, put a bead be tw een each two-beadincrease, as on rows 2 and 3.WORK AN EDG INGA sim ple edg ing teehn lq ue is to addthree beads per stitch around the w ho lelast row . For a fu ller e ffect, work a rowof five -bead netting through the cen te rbea d of the three -bea d increa se (figure4). U se size 12~ 3-cut C zech beads forth e e dging ro w(s) to a dd sp arkle .- W en dy E lls wo rth

    M A T E R I A L S stone or g lasscabochon(anySile/shape) l ea ther ,l ll tr asuede ,o r S t if f-S tu f f f o r twoback ing p ieces size 11C z e c h s e e d beads, three ormoreco lo rs. 1 hank Of p ilckage perco lor

    h a nk o r p a ck ag es i~ c12" 3--

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    C e l l i n i s p i r a ln e c k l a c eC ircu lar peyo te stitch takes on a

    scu lp tura l look w hen it's w orked inb ea ds o f v ario us s iz es . T he se s cu lp tu ra ls pira l n eckla ces ev olv ed fro m atec hn iq ue ta ugh t b y V irg in ia B lak eio cka nd C aro l P erre no ud a t th e M id -A tla nticF ib er A rts C on fe re nc e s ev ers I y ea rs a go .V irg in ia developed the stitch a nd nam edit in honor o f Benvenu to Ce llin i, a

    1 6th-ce ntu ry Ita lia n scu lp to r kn ow n forh i s ro co co a ch ite ctu ra I c olu m ns .

    T he C e llin i s pira l is e ss en tia llyc irc ula r p ey ote e xe cu te d w ith g ra du ate db ea ds. T he tig hte r it's d on e, an d th em ore con tras t in the sizes o f beadsused , the m ore the w ork w ill puckerinw ard on the sp ira l o f sm alle r beads.

    P lay w ith d iffe ren t co lo r and s ize

    c om bin atio ns be fo re yo u be gin. T o g eta bette r fee l fo r how the fin ishedne ck la ce w ill lo ok w ith ou t m akingC ellin i sam ples, m ake a bead ladde r o rw ork a tw o-bead strip o f sq uare stitch(s ee "B as ic s," p . 5 ).

    T he in stru ction s b elo w e xp la in h owto m ake the ivory and green neck laceabove , bu t you can adapt these

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    te ch niq ue sa s yo u like . Fo r e xa mp le ,m ake the necklace long enough to goover your head and eltm inate the clasp.O r m ake the entire necklace in C ellin isp ira ,1 w ith ou t th e stra ig ht tu be s ectio n.o U sing a 1 yd . (.9m ) o r lo nge r th re ad .begi n work a l the center of thenecklace by m aking a stra ight tubea s fo llo ws: String tw o 1Ss, fourch arlo tte s, tw o ISs, fo ur charlottes.T ie th e ta i I and working thread w itha square knot to m ake a tig h t c ir cle ,leaving a 6- i n . (1 5c m) ta il. T he se b ea dscomprise rows 1 and 2.6To beg i n row 3, take your need Iethrough the first tw o IS", in theseq uen ce ( pho to a ). Pick up a 15", goth ro u gh th e seco nd ch a rl otte, pick upa c h a rl ot te , go th rouqh th e fo ur thch arlo tte , p ick u p 0 c ha rlo tte , g othroug,h the second IS', p ick up a IS',go through the second char lo t te , pickup a charlo tte , go through the fourthch arlo tte , a nd p ick u p a ch arlotte .(Note: Whether yo u're w orking th estraight tube or th e sp ira l, a lways p ickup th e s am e bea d a s the bea d you 'vejust gane rhraugh.)@ ) To step up for row 4, g o th ro ug hthe second 15" on row 2 and the firston row 3...Pick up a IS" and go throughthe first row 3 ch a rl ot te (photo b).C ontinue in th is pattern, stepping upfor each new row until the tubemeasures 1 in . (2 .S cm j.o Now make two transition rows tothe C ellini sp i ra l. Step up as usual at the

    bstart o f the row. Begin the row with a dIS anda charlo tte . For the next threestitches, p ick up 10's (photo c). The lsststitch isa ch arlo tte . S te p up a nd r ep ea t.) S ta rt th e C ellini spira I b y s te pp in gup and substitutlnqan 8" fo r th e m id dle10'. Th e C ellin i se q uence is 1 5',ch arlo tte , 1 0", 8", 1 0", charlotte.o K ee p th e te nsio n tigh t. A fte r si x toeight ro ws, th e scu lp tu ra l C elli n i sh ap ebecom es w ell-defined (photo d).C ontinu e w orking in C ellin i spira Istitc h fo r 3 i n. ( 7 .6em).e To make the transition back to thes tra ig ht tu be , s ub stitu te d' 10" for the 8"for tw o rows. To return to t he o rig in a lstraiqht t ub e seq uen ce , s ubs titu te acharlotte, a 1 5", a nd a c h ar lo tt e for theth re e 1 0"s . C on tin ue w orking th estra igh t tu be fo r 't. in . ( 2cm j.(3 Alte rna te be tw ee n stra igh t tu be ancCe ll i n i s p ir al as d esire d, e nding w ith th eC ell i ni sp ira l. u ntil yo u a re a bo ut 2 'f, in .(6cm ) from the fi n ished length of onesid e o f th e n eck la ce .o To taper the end of the necklace,work in the transition s eq ue nc e (s eestep 7) for four rows. Now. reduce thenumber of beads from six to four asfollows: Work the step up, then pick upa IS ". go through the char lo t te , pickup a charlo tte , go through the nextch arlo tte a nd 15", pick up a IS", gothrough the next charlo tte , p ick u p ach arlo tte , go th rou gh th e ne xt ch arlo tteand 15" (photo e) Step up to stert th ene xt ro w. W ork tour-beac row s fo r1'f, in . (3..8em) .

    9 Pick up two 15, a,nd go backthrough the last charlotte and 15'added on the last peyote row (photo I).(p 'B egin sq ua re sti tch by go i n gthrough the two ISs in the samedirection as instep 10. Pic:k u p tw omore 15'5 and work in two-bead squarestitch fo r e ig.h t ro ws (se e "Ba sics") S lipthe clasp find ing on th is strip andattach the strip secure ly to the otherside of the spi:ral (photo g)_ Weave in a new thread soit exitsthe starting point at the center of thenecklace. F ollow s te ps 4 to 11 tocom plete the second half. W eave ina ny lo ose th re ads .. - D e b S amu e ls

    M A T E R I A L S 5 -7 9 (apprcxJS!ed b e a d s i n s iz e s 15" .10", S' , and 13' d1anottes

    S ilamid e o r N l" '1 o 0 ~ing tIl~ beesw ax or Thn:ad He a, \l tn f or Nymo beiid in g n e ed le s. " 1 2 clasp

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    Free- formpeyo te b race le tAdd ing a new technique to you r

    re perto ire is an e xciting ad ventu re . Y ouneve r know where it w ill lead. In th iscase, an a ssortm ent of b eads in va rioussizes a nd sha pes dicta te a ran dom ,free -form app roach to peyo te stitch tobuild the bea ds into a te xtu re d b an d.This brace le t is proof that you don'thave to work on a new technique forages befo re it becom es a usefu l too l.Even beginners can have fun and getg re a t r es ults .

    W o rk th e c hu n ky b ra ce le t le ng th wis efrom a center sp ine o f even-count fla tpeyo te stitch . W he n the fi rst ha lf o f theb ra ce le t is a bo ut 'I . in . (2 cm ) w ide , youwork the othe r ha lf out from the otheredge o f the sp i n e.

    The nubby textu re is the resu lt o fusing d iffe ren t size s and shap es o fb ea ds . B eg in b y s ele ctin g fiv einteresting ly textu red bea ds in the

    a pp ro xi m ate S ill'S a nd q ua ntitie s lis te din "m ate ria ls ." M os t of the brace le t ism ade w ith the three sm allest sizes: thetw o larg er be ad sizes are used ran dom lyfo r accent. W ork w ith long lengths o fd ou ble d, w ax ed th re ad , u sin g a s iz e th a tw ill pa ss thro ugh the sm allest b eads a tle as t fo ur tim es .

    o Thread a needle w ith about 4 yd .(3.7m ) of thread. D oub le and w ax it.S tring a tem pora ry stop bead to about18 in. (46cm ) from the end and goth rough the bead again to anchor it.Pick up enough beads to go a round yourw rist w ith the ends touch ing abou t 2 in .(S cm ) a bo ve y ou r w ris t b on e. S trin gbeads random ly fo r the base row , but donot use e ither the la rge st or the sm allestbeads. Y ou need an even num ber o fb ea ds , e xc lu din g th e s to p b ea d.6W ork back across the base stra nd in

    fla t. e ve n-c ou nt p ey ote s titc h ("B as ic s,"p . 5), p icki ng up beads sim ilar to theo nes the y to uch (photo a). C h ec k th eb an d fo r le ng th . If you need to add afew m ore beads, rem ove the stop beadand string the new beads on to the ta il.Then peyote across them to the end ofthe row .~ Make sure the strip is no t tw istedand w ork back across the row , againp icking up beads sim ilar to the onesthey touch. W ork 2-3 m ore rows th isw ay to establish a so lid base for thee xperim ents to com e.o W hen you have worked six rows(ea ch stack is three bead s h igh). youcan begin adding a few large beads fortexture . look for sh allow a reas w herea la rger bead w ill fit com fortably. Theth re ad s ho u Id tra ve l s tra ig ht a cro ssw ith the la rge bead p erh aps spa nningtwo to fou r sma I I beads {figu re 1 J .

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    o When you come to the large bead .on the next row, use sm all or tiny beadsbefore and after it to keep the work fla t(figure 2). When you return to the la rgebead on the th ird row , span it w ith twosm all b ea ds e ve n th ou g h th ree mayfit (fig u r e 3). Th is a lIows room forIarge beads in subse quen t row s. Toe lim ina te a , bu lge in th e fo l!lo wingrow, if necessary, you m ay wa nt topass th rough a bead or two w ithou ta dd in g b ea ds .(5 ) R obin 's se cre t to ge tting sm oo thareas around her large beads is to workba ck a nd fo rth a cro ss sm all se ctio ns,ra ther than continuo usly across e ve ryrow (photo b), She works a sm oothtextura I fie ld back and forth across afew inches of the brace le t to build upsevera l rows of "ledge" at the edge ofw hich sh e places the large bead (figure4). Then she works the ledge across afew inches on the other side of theb ea d . T o c on ne ct a new short section toan existi ng one, tu rn to work back bysew ing through a ledge bead on thesam e leve l as the new row. Then reversedirection throu gh the ledge be ad above.6When the strip is 'I. in . w id e, bu ildup the cen ter 3 in. (7,6cm ) w ith a fewm o re ro ws .) Finish off the oute r edge by w orkingsm all bead s into any gaps. D on't w orryabout a few threads show ing in the bodyof the w ork, you 'll e mbellish over themla te r. I f a long th read rem ains, lea ve ita tta ch ed fo r fin ish ing the e nds andsew ing o n the cla sps. Ta pe it und er thebra ce le t to a vo id tang ling . If the threadis short, weave it in and clip the ta il.o Attach a new thread to the baserow and work the other side . Since youstabilized the spine in steps 1-3, yo uca n beg in adding large beads righta wa y. P la ce la rg e be ad s a nd d esignelem ents to balance the first side.When the brace le t is 1 'f . in . (3cm ) w ideacross the na r row edge, bu ild up thecente r 3 in , as in step 7 a nd fin ish theedge as in step 8. Now sew over to any places whereth reads show and em bellish over themw ith sm all beads.C D The e nds are like ly to be irregu lar.B ring a thread out the bead a t one edgeof a n end and work a few rows o f brickstitch across the edge to m ake asm ooth fin ish (photo c and "Basics").

    Check the brace le t for length, a llow i ngfor the clasp, and work a few m ore rowsof brick stitch if nee ded.@ If d esire d, o ve rca st tiny be ad s a lo ngeach long edge to fin ish them sm oo th ly(photo d).I E ! Fina lly, sew th e fem ale halve s o feach clasp to the corners on one end ofth e bra ce le t a nd the male ha lves to theo p pos i t e co m e r s ,- d es ign by R obin B risc o; d ire ctio nsby P enn y Ha rre ll; b ra ce le t bea de d byAlice K ora ch . To se e Rob in 's o ri gi na lbracelet m ade with chunky brass beads(wh ich was , un fo rtuna te ly , la s t by theU .S. P o s ta l Service) v is it R ob in 's w eb site ,totheweb.com/rob in/ .

    f i g u r e 2

    f igure 4

    M A T E R I A L S 200+ 3mm f i re-pol ished crystals 300+ size 8" seed~ads 400+ size 11 " seed beads 65+ Size6" s e e d ~ad5 15+ 6mm prcsstd-g lassC!y5tals Nymo B or D or Sl lamide~ading thread beesw ax for Nymo b ea din q n ee dle s, t 12 2 bo x or magne ti c dasps

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    R u s s i a nl e a v e sp e n d a n tor b roochR us sia n le ave s, d on e h ere in d ia go na lp eyote stitch , ha ve u nlim ited de sig np os sibilitie s. T he le av es a re b ea utifu l o ntheir own. W hen com bined with o therelem ents, they can be used to crea tes tu nn in g la ria ts , n ec kla ce s, b ra ce le ts ,e arrin gs , o r bro oc he s. T akin g th eve rsa ti Ii ty o f the le ave s on e step fu rthe r,Ihave designed a piece that can beworn as both a bro oc h an d a p en dan t.

    Fo r th is broo ch , c re ate e ach lea findiv idually and attach it to the surfaceo f a fla t p iece of be ad wo rk. T he n a tta cha pin back, work a p ico t edge, and addbranch fringe . C rea te a necklace byadd ing findings and a neck strap tot he b ro o ch .

    Make the piece as lush as you likebased on the n umber o f leaves you add.Rem em ber that an odd number is m orea pp ea lin g visu al.ly. I like to m ake thele aves in se ve ra l c olo rs, bu t you c anm ake them all one colo r or use differentsha de s of a co lor. Th ese in struc tion s a regeared to m aking m ulti-colo r leaves. Tom ake a sing le-co lor leaf. just om it thea c ce n t c o lo r.MAKE A LEAFM ake the leaves one side at a tim e. Addveins to the cente r and work a picotedge arou nd the outs ide . I worked thelea f w ith J ap an ese cyl i nd er be ad s a ndthe ve ins and edging w ith 14-15" seed ').

    o Start a t the tip o f the lea f andstring one accent colo r (AC) to thec en te r of 1 yd . (.9m ) o f c on dition edbead ing th read . The other ha lf o f thethread will be used fo r the second side.Go through the bead again in the same

    direc tion (you 'll re mo ve this e xtrap ass be fore startin g the sec on d side ).8tring five main co lor (M C), oneAC , and one MC. Go throug h the fou rthMC toward the start (pho to a andfigure 1, a-b). S tring one Me. Go

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    f ig u re 2

    th rough the second M e.String one MC and goth rough the AC st a rt be ad(figure 1, b-e).@ Turn and work two MCp ey ote s titc he s (fig u re 1,c-d). Then make a p ico t bystring i n9 one AC and one M e.Tu rn the p iece and go backth ro ug h th e la st p eyo te stitc h(f igure 1, d -e). W ork one MCp e yo te s titc h ( fig ur e 1, e-f).o To beg.in the firs t an dfo llo win g d ia go na l p eyo terows: S tring one M C, one AC ,a nd one M C (figure 2, a-b).G o back th roug h the first M estrun g, po in tin g tow ard thetip (p h oto b a nd fig ur e 2 ,b-el, T he seco nd M C will benext to the Ae . Work one MCpeyo te stitch (pho to c) thenone p ico t (pho to d and c-d).F in is h th e re tu rn ro w w ithone M C peyote stitch tha tgoes th rough the second M Cstrung at the beg in n ing o fth is s te p (p ho to e and d-e].o Re pe a t s te p 4 e ig ht m oretim e s. T he re w ill be nineins ide A C ve in po in ts p lus t