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Rouge Incandescent Transformable Necklace by CHANEL in 18K white gold set with rubies and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia . 5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie . POA. www.chanel.com THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT PARIS JΑNUARY 2019

THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT€¦ · gemstone (ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire, dia-mond or yellow diamond) supported by white round- or pear-shaped diamonds. Lastly Soir de Fête pour

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Page 1: THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT€¦ · gemstone (ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire, dia-mond or yellow diamond) supported by white round- or pear-shaped diamonds. Lastly Soir de Fête pour

Rouge Incandescent Transformable Necklace by CHANEL in 18K white gold set with rubies and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia . 5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

www.chanel.com

THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT PARIS JΑNUARY 2019

Page 2: THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT€¦ · gemstone (ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire, dia-mond or yellow diamond) supported by white round- or pear-shaped diamonds. Lastly Soir de Fête pour
Page 3: THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT€¦ · gemstone (ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire, dia-mond or yellow diamond) supported by white round- or pear-shaped diamonds. Lastly Soir de Fête pour

The January 2019 rendezvous for haute cou-ture and high jewellery has been quite surpris-ing in the sense that a few houses have intro-duced important collections that would usually fit July’s bigger event. As a result, we have been shown creations that warm both minds and hearts and can easily be categorised as excep-tional, in stark contrast with the snowy and gla-cial weather outside. We saw CHAUMET go back to its fundamentals with a superbly classic high jewellery collection, which is an extension of the Joséphine line and is centred on exploring the design of Empress Josephine’s tiara. CHANEL never has to go too far to find inspiration as delv-ing into the past of its founder always provides a successful outcome. This time the hero was the camellia flower, a favourite of Coco, which was the main motif in fifty pieces, of which twenty three were transformable. At CHOPARD, tech-nical prowess was the main focus with the of-ficial launch of the Chopard MAGICAL setting, a patented new way of bringing the most radi-ance and light from gemstones. Haute couture and haute joaillerie combined for REZA’s pre-sentation. By accessorising Alexis Mabille’s vi-brant dresses with their most recent creations, REZA contributed to a match made in heaven.

Comparison between the gouache drawing and a work-in-progress, the Frosted Star Manchette by PIAGET; Sunlight Escape.

www.piaget.com

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At DAVID MORRIS, creations were grouped by co-lours so as to showcase one of their strong suits and the fact that their coloured gemstones are the real deal, i.e. unheated. BOUCHERON took the opportunity to open their refurbished flagship house (see my previous article: The reopening of 26, Place Vendôme or a home with a past poised to embrace the future, published earlier this year) to present their new fine jewellery line, Jack, as well as some new high jewellery renditions. It was a very private and secure affair at CINDY CHAO for the unveiling of both her 2018 Annual Butterfly and the dazzling Greenovia Brooch, a novelty with a 105-carat chrysoberyl cat’s eye. Delicacies were lavished on us at HARRY WINSTON, both literal-ly in the form of sweets and figuratively with one-of-a-kind cocktail rings from the new Candy col-lection. SUZANNE SYZ was once again a joy to meet, with great novelties especially earrings. At PIAGET, it felt like the end of a journey, the last chapter of Sunlight Escape and a beautiful con-clusion. Lastly, LYDIA COURTEILLE immersed us in a stylised reverie about the Dark Side of Marie Antoinette, and dark has never been more exqui-site in shades of blue.

Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Diadem and matching Earrings both in 18K white gold, set with Akoya cultured pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

www.chaumet.com

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Stepping into tradition and grand decorum is what Chaumet’s new collection, Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament, promises. It is the art of modernising jewels that are traditional-ly ceremonial and seen as the ultimate status symbols where the muse is none other than Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon, and whose parures for appearance in court were created by the French house. About one hundred pieces were presented, not in the Place Vendôme salons, which are be-ing refurbished, but in a temporary outpost, a grand house on the Saint-Germain-des-Prés boulevard. There on the first floor, the precious sets were showcased in a dark room so that the di-amonds and gemstones were all sparkling like a thousand stars. The Joséphine line was translated into three themes, the first being Joséphine Aigrette Impériale where the tiara emblem has inspired necklace, earrings and ring sets, an all-white diamond ensemble minus the central coloured stones (sapphire, ruby, em-erald, yellow diamond) or cultured pearls.

www.chaumet.comModel wears Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Necklace in 18K white gold, set with one 3.28-carat pear-shaped pink sapphire from Madagascar, 21 pear-shaped EF VVS diamonds for a total weight of 10.87 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Ring and matching Earrings also in 18K white gold, set with pear-shaped pink sapphires from Madagascar, pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Tiara in 18K white gold set with pear-shaped pink sapphires and tsavorite garnets, pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Bracelet in 18K white gold set with pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

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From the second strand of the Josephine theme, Joséphine Éclat Floral, comes a ring of consummate beauty with a central cushion-cut gemstone (ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire, dia-mond or yellow diamond) supported by white round- or pear-shaped diamonds. Lastly Soir de Fête pour Joséphine, the most precious line-up of one-of-a-kind neckpieces and rings, which are inspired by the fuchsia tiara, made in 1919 for Hedwige de la Rochefoucauld to wear

for her wedding to Prince Sixtus of Bourbon-Parma. The fuchsia flower being an emblem of enduring love, Chaumet extracted the mo-tif from the tiara to build the diamond-paved body of the necklaces. As one would expect, the result is absolutely stunning, and two sets in particular deserve a nod. First, the Soir de Fête necklace, set with ‘pigeon blood’ rubies from Mozambique, showcases the house sig-nature style, the fil couteau.

One-of-a-kind Joséphine Éclat Floral Earrings in platinum, set with 2 cushion-cut ‘Vivid Red Pigeon’s Blood’ rubies (weighing 1.70 and 1.65 carats) from Mozambique, 2 pear-shaped D VVS2 diamonds (weighing 0.73 and 0.70 carats) and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

One of-a-kind Soir de Fête Cocktail Ring in 18K white gold set with one 17-carat blue sapphire from Madagascar, pear-shaped white diamonds, and brilliant-cut white diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

One-of-a-kind Soir de Fête Necklace in 18K white gold set with ‘pigeon blood’ rubies from Mozambique, pear-shaped white diamonds, and brilliant-cut white diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

www.chaumet.com

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Then the Joséphine Aigrette Impériale parure set with natu-ral pearls that were once part of a Chaumet-designed tiara, re-purposed at the request of the owners, in a necklace that was then bought back by Chaumet. Now the rare pearls have been brought back to life in a necklace, earrings, tiara and ring. Let’s hope they are not going to be separated after be-ing united for more than a century.

Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Necklace, Ring, Earrings and Tiara all in 18K set with natural pearls, pear-shaped white diamonds, and brilliant-cut white diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

www.chaumet.com

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It is said that the camellia motif made its first appearance in 1913 in a Chanel collec-tion. Since then, the alleged favourite flow-er of Coco Chanel has been repeatedly used in all areas of the French house, so much so that it is now indistinguishable from the luxury brand. As such, it was time to cele-brate the floral emblem in the most exclu-sive part of the Chanel business, the high jewellery realm. The 1.5 collection means 1 motif (the camellia) for 5 Allures, and the 50 pieces certainly deliver with 23 of them being transformable – in most cases, the camellia component can be detached and worn as a brooch or hair clip, revealing in its original place another motif. The simple colour palette is reminiscent of the Coco Avant Chanel high jewellery collection from 2017 with hints of soft pink (pink sapphires or pink quartz), yet it takes a more passion-ate turn with the incandescence of vivid red rubies. A note to self, rubies have indeed made a comeback in high jewellery collec-tions after a hiatus of a few seasons, partly thanks to the rich Montepuez ruby deposit in northern Mozambique.

www.chanel.com

Rouge Incandescent Transformable Bracelet in 18K white gold and rose gold

set with rubies and diamonds (the camellia is detachable and becomes a brooch –

in its place a hidden cut-out camellia motif appears); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures

collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

Rouge Incandescent Ring in 18K white gold set with one

ruby and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection,

CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

Rouge Incandescent Asymmetrical earrings in 18K white gold set with rubies and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

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Quintessence Brooch in 18K white gold and rose gold set with diamonds and carved pink quartz; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

Cristal Illusion Secret Watch in 18K white gold with rock crystal and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

Rose Tendre Ring in 18K white gold and rose gold set with diamonds, carved pink quartz and cultured pearls); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

Révélation Diamant Transformable in 18K white gold set with diamonds (the camellia motif is detachable and becomes a brooch; the necklace can be short or long); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

www.chanel.com

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In order to demonstrate how versatile and transformable the 1.5 pieces are, the scenog-raphy for this collection was instructive with a series of screens showing photographs of a model demonstrating all the versions of how to wear the most prominent transform-able pieces. Dressed in elegant black Chanel attires, the model – a dancer by trade – was inhabiting the Chanel spirit and effortlessly showing how to style the jewels. The most precious necklaces were the long sautoirs, lariats, or multi-strand pieces, while ‘young-er’ versions (torque necklaces) with fewer gemstones had the same appeal. Worth not-ing once again are the secret watches – an area of expertise that Chanel has mastered both in craftsmanship and desirability for their watches all have perfect proportions.

www.chanel.com

Rose Poudré Earrings in 18K rose gold set with diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

Rose Poudré Transformable Necklace in 18K rose gold set with diamonds (the camellia motif is detachable and becomes a brooch; the camellia can also be affixed at different places on the necklace); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

Rose Intense Ring in 18K rose gold set with one pear-shaped pink sapphire and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.

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In order to welcome the press into their mag-nificently refurbished mansion at 26 Place Vendôme and present their novelties, the Boucheron team had the excellent idea to or-ganise the presentation in the private apart-ment on the second floor (‘Le 26’ private apart-ment is operated with the services of the Ritz Paris, and is where the notion of family materi-alises. The guests benefit from the full comfort of a private home and more, which means that they will be able to spend the night in this one-of-a-kind sanctuary. Maison Boucheron collec-tors have always been treated as part of the family; however, from now on, they will liter-ally be given the keys to the mansion), where the jewels were worn by models who made the

place their own. A couple were playing a game of chess in the dining room, young girls were chatting away on the sofa in the living room, further models were in the bedroom and one was pausing in the bathroom. All were wearing pieces from the new fine jewellery collection, Jack, except for the last girl who was trying on the few new high jewels. A fresh approach for a playful and cool line, Jack is composed of a tubular gold wire inspired by audio cables and sealed by a stylised jeweller’s clasp and that can be worn on the wrist, the neck or the waist. “In yellow or white gold, wrapped round once, three times or six times, on its own or in multi-ple combination, Jack winds round and unfolds as the mood takes you”, they say.

www.boucheron.com

Jack Bracelet or a Long Necklace, 18K yellow gold set with diamonds; Jack by Boucheron collection. POA.

Jack Transformable Bracelet (1 wrap) in 18K yellow gold; Jack by Boucheron collection. POA.

Jack Transformable Bracelet (1 wrap) in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds; Jack by Boucheron collection. POA.

Jack Bracelet (6 wraps) or Long Necklace – High jewellery version – in 18K white gold entirely set with 24 carats of diamonds; Jack by Boucheron collection. POA.

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Even though Boucheron did not present a new high jewellery collection (the focus was on launching Jack by Boucheron, as well as intro-ducing a new colourway for Serpent Bohéme with rhodolite garnets), they unveiled a few pieces: a re-edition (Delilah Necklace), a rose gold version of a previous creation (Ivy Point D’Interrogation Necklace) and an addition (Nara La Biche Ring).

www.boucheron.com

Delilah Necklace in 18K yellow gold set with

diamonds; Couture collection. POA.

Nara La Biche Ring in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and onyx; Couture collection. POA.

Ivy Point D’Interrogation Necklace in 18K rose gold set with diamonds; Couture collection. POA.

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www.chopard.com

Beside their Place Vendôme flagship store, in-side a salon whose entrance was entirely cov-ered with fresh flowers and roses, Chopard unveiled not only new creations, but a revolu-tionary patented setting, the Magical Setting (also the name of the new collection). The prin-ciple is based on redefining the traditional floral cluster motif by eliminating any sign of metal between each stone (“barely-there claws”) and from the front and above; the stones seem held together by none other than their counterparts,

hereby unleashing the full potential of the said gems in terms of light and lustre. “The collec-tion offers a choice of jewels set with diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each cluster is centred on a significant single stone and encir-cled throughout with unusually large stones”, the teams explains. “The cluster is underpinned by a pioneering structure where the light can flow freely in and out and around the gemstones, unimpeded by the opacity of metal constraints, unfettered by demarcation.”

Pendant in 18K white gold set with diamonds and featuring a central 3.4-carat diamond; Magical Setting collection. POA.

Model from the Giambattista Valli Spring 2019 Couture Show wearing the Earrings in 18K white gold set with diamonds from the Magical Setting collection. POA.

Earrings in 18K white gold set with diamonds; Magical Setting collection. POA.

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www.chopard.com

What impresses most is how tightly arranged the gems are. This provides such lavishness and brilliance in one mass that the effect is quite tantalising even in the smallest ring. In other words, the Magical Setting multiplies the wow factor of the piece. When in an all-white dia-mond version, the rings come either in white or rose gold, and only in white gold when they in-clude coloured gems. In the latter case, the per-mutations between the central and surround-ing stones are endless as seen in the nine rings that mix the triumvirate of the most sough-af-ter coloured gems that are rubies, sapphires and emeralds with white diamonds. Magical Setting is the modern re-invention of a clas-sic, the most romantic pattern of all, the floral cluster.

A cluster of colourful Magical Setting Rings all in 18K white gold

and set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds; Magical

Setting collection. POA.

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The presentation of Winston Candy by Harry Winston was heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. Let’s just start with the salon on the first floor of Harry Winston’s Avenue Montaigne flag-ship boutique, where jars filled with all the imag-inable candies of our childhood were taunting us from their counter along the main wall. It is in this very place (fitted with a bubble pink carpet for the occasion) that the other – non edible but pre-cious – candies were displayed under domes. The fact that there was just one cocktail ring under each dome reinforced the notion of special deli-cacy. Winston Candy rings feature rare fancy-co-loured central stones paired with a combination of diamonds and vibrant gems in complementing

shades. It could be seen as a new attempt by Harry Winston to extend their offering on the market of precious coloured gems, since they are notably best known for their white diamonds expertise, but it would be missing the fact that the “inspi-ration for the collection began with a series of ar-chival sketches dating back to the 1950s and 60s that featured brightly coloured cocktail rings in un-expected shades. The jewellery aesthetic at that time was about magnificence and grandeur and for Harry Winston that meant creating the most ex-traordinary jewels, using signature techniques such as the pairing of fancy shaped stones with round brilliants and the use of intriguing colour combina-tions”, the team says.

www.harrywinston.com Original gouache, loose pink tourmaline stone and final Winston Candy Ring in 18K yellow gold and platinum set with the rare 11.22-carat oval-shaped pink tourmaline (impeccable colour saturation), 16 pear-shaped turquoises (1.98cts), 16 round pink sapphires (1.27cts), and 16 round brilliant-cut diamonds (3.72cts); Winston Candy by Harry Winston. POA.

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The 28 displayed rings are all one-of-a-kind, showcasing bold colour contrasts, varied stone-cutting techniques, and different propor-tions. Two of those rings were featured in my last year’s November and December DeluxePad Holiday Season Wish Lists, therefore it is worth noting that whenever a ring is sold, it is replaced by another completely unique one, featuring another colour combo of extraordinary gems, which perpetuates the line of Winston Candy by Harry Winston anchoring a new tradition in

the house’s history. Each ring is indeed a kind of specimen for rare gemstones (the finest manda-rin garnets, rare tourmalines, pastel sapphires, and lively spinels) and as a result, are a dream for collectors. That said, the importance and quality of the gems does not overshadow the designs – seen from the back the setting is all about lightness with bridges that let the light through – and the playfulness inherent in cock-tail rings. In any case, these rings have all the hallmarks that grab attention.

www.harrywinston.com

Winston Candy Ring in platinum set with one 19.67-carat cushion-cut green tourmaline (intense green and one of the most desirable shades), 8 round yellow sapphires (4.12cts), 8 pear-shaped peridots (3.75cts) and 76 round brilliant-cut diamonds (2.54cts); Winston Candy by Harry Winston. POA.

Winston Candy Ring in platinum set with one 5.48-carat cushion-cut aquamarine (perfect ‘sea’ blue hue), 14 round blue sapphires (1.29cts), 14 round aquamarines and 14 pear-shaped diamonds (2.10cts); Winston Candy by Harry Winston. POA.

Archival gouaches from the 1950s and 60s and inspirational basis for Winston Candy by Harry Winston.

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What a chromatic extravaganza! Alexis Mabil-le’s Spring 2019 Haute Couture collection was all about long silhouettes with sharp cuts, the occasional jaw-dropping all-over embroidery, the ruching of tulle fabric from shoulders and sleeves and most of all saturated vivid colours. This background was the perfect set-up for REZA high jewels to shine. Each model was in-deed wearing riveting creations from the high jeweller, and their make-up and styling could not have been more befitting: delicate flowers

peppering the models’ hair and appearing on their cheeks. A divine tableau that would not be complete if it were not for the REZA jewels that illuminated each passage. It is also worth pointing out that the Place Vendôme high jew-eller revels in designing sharply constructed pieces where the quality of the unheated stones or flawless diamonds goes hand in hand with a fierce look. Most earrings are indeed abstract-ly floral and thus were a match made in heav-en with the styling.

www.alexandrereza.com

Cascade Earrings (also worn by model – photograph courtesy of Fançois Lollichon) in platinum set with 28 marquise-cut D IF diamonds (47.26cts), and 10 marquise-cut diamonds (7.84cts); all diamonds are free to move. POA.

La Danse Earrings (also worn by model – photograph courtesy of Christian Tarro Toma) in platinum and 18K rose gold set with 10 Colombian Min to Sign Oil emerald-cut emeralds (36.11cts); 8 oval-shaped diamonds (3.70cts) and 32 brilliants (7.13cts). POA.

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It appears that more high jewellers are inclined to partner with a couturier during the haute cou-ture weeks, so that their renditions can be seen worn live by the most discerning clientele thus clearly reach a wider audience. REZA did not have to look very far since their outpost in the merchant gallery of the Ritz Paris is next door to that of Alexis Mabille. The catwalk show took place at the Pavilion Place Vendôme, and it was the opportunity for REZA to open its vaults. The

Birmanes Earrings with their extremely rare pear-shaped Burmese sapphires that come from the private collection of gemstones that the late Mr Alexandre Reza amassed, the di-vine Nuage Perlée Earrings with flawless pear-shaped diamonds and round-cut pink diamonds, the majestic Duchesse Necklace set with natural pearls… so many exception-al pieces that one could fantasise about on that day.

www.alexandrereza.com

Branches Saphir et Emeraude Earrings (also worn by model – photograph courtesy of Fançois Lollichon) in 18K polished and brushed white gold set with one 4.77-carat emerald-cut unheated Burmese sapphire, one 2.67-carat pear-shaped Brazilian emerald, 18 marquise-cut diamonds (5.42cts); 6 pear-shaped diamonds (1.60cts) and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.09cts). POA.

Birmanes Earrings (also worn on model – photograph courtesy of Christian Tarro Toma) in 18K white gold set with Burmese sapphires (respectively 18.49 and 20.34 carats) and 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.42cts). POA.

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A beautiful suite at the Ritz Paris was the lovely setting for Cindy Chao’s Annual Butterfly, 2018 edition. Compared to previous iterations, the new brooch looked more abstract – a hybrid between a six-winged butterfly and an opu-lent bow. Its carefully planned design also suc-ceeds in creating a sense of motion and live-liness, where the extremely rare red diamond in the centre seems to be the pulsating heart of the creature. The latter could have easily overshadowed the ensemble, yet Cindy Chao preferred to make it a full part of the compo-sition by nesting the red centre in a surround of white diamonds. The main upper and lower wings are entirely and tightly paved with myri-ad yellow diamonds of different sizes and cuts intermixed with white ones. The sheer num-ber of diamonds can send one’s head spinning, and make you wonder how on earth the ate-lier could achieve the setting on curved and rolled surfaces. The result is an almost three dimensional texture that plays into the phan-tasmagorical nature of the creation.

www.cindychao.com

2017–18 Black Label Masterpiece I “Red Diamond Butterfly Brooch” in titanium and 18K gold set with one

10-carat octagonal-cut fancy orangey red diamond, 993 fancy-cut diamonds

(97.38cts) and 1,584 fancy coloured diamonds (67.11cts); Butterfly Collection

(original gouache shown). POA.

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Aside from the Butterfly, another masterpiece was revealed: the 2018 Black Label Masterpiece XVII “Greenovia Brooch”. A succulent plant as found in nature, the Greenovia becomes some-thing else in the hand of the Taiwanese artist. For a start, it morphs into a flower that has all the right parts but still feels otherworldly. The attention to detail is once again sensational with nearly 2,500 pieces from six varieties of green gemstones that have been used to create six-teen silk-like chromatic grades and shades on the petals. These include tsavorites, alexandrite, green sapphires and emeralds. This exceptional receptacle hosts an astonishingly large Cat’s eye chrysoberyl of utter chatoyancy, whose smooth surface contrasts with the faceted gems around. The ‘milk and honey’ effect and the fine line that delimits the two sides of the chrysoberyl are both impeccable.

www.cindychao.com

2018 Black Label Masterpiece XVII “Greenovia Brooch” (accompanied by the original gouache) in

titanium, 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold and silver set with one 105.37-carat Cat’s eye chrysoberyl,

468 diamonds (22.48cts), 485 fancy-coloured diamonds (11.37cts), 52 emeralds (10.46cts), 5

demantoids (7.10cts), 1,993 tsavorites (95.59cfts), 367 alexandrites (28.75cts) and 81 green sapphires

(2.61cts); Tango in the Garden Collection. POA.

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Not one to launch ‘collections’ when it comes to haute joaillerie, but rather one-of-a-kind pieces, the London Jeweller decided to fo-cus on its main strength, namely rare unheat-ed gemstones, and as a result, the paint-by-numbers presentation, called Chromatophore, was organised around colour groups: rubies in one cabinet, sapphires and Paraiba tour-malines in another, emeralds in a third and so on. A paradise for collectors and a con-firmation that at David Morris, they can pro-vide you with the best in all categories. Of course, the designs are also second to none:

glamourous, lavish and oh so feminine as seen in the exquisite bangle set with highly rare large conch pearls or the blue sapphire and diamond princess-style necklace. But if your favourite stones are rubies, you can pick be-tween an interesting choice of shades depend-ing on the origin of the stone, and the bonus is that it is the place where you will be able to find the rarest ones. The same goes for em-eralds, Paraiba tourmalines and coloured di-amonds. The marked diversity of stones and designs is what makes David Morris the go-to-place for the connoisseur.

www.davidmorris.com

Exclusive Chandelier Earrings in 18K white gold set with 25.91 carats of rubies and white diamonds. POA.

Ring in 18K white gold set with one 16.59-carat oval sunset ruby and 4.92 carats of marquise- and pear-shaped white diamonds. POA.

Fan Earrings in 18K white gold set with 6.86 carats of oval-cut rubies

and 14.58 carats of round and pear-shaped

white diamonds. POA.

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www.davidmorris.com

Fringe Necklace in 18K white gold set with 73.88 carats of cushion-cut blue sapphires and 36.12 carats of oval- and round-cut white diamonds. POA.

Open Ring in 18K white gold set with 7.75 carats of pear-shaped Paraiba tourmalines, round-cut Paraiba tourmalines and pear-shaped white diamonds. POA.

One-of-a-kind Earrings in 18K white gold set

with 47.38 carats of oval- and pear-shaped

sapphires, pink and white diamonds. POA.

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www.davidmorris.com

Sprung Bangle in 18K white gold set with 72.52 carats of rare baroque conch pearls mounted with pear-shaped pink and white diamonds. POA.

Important Fan Necklace in platinum and 18K rose gold set with 103.43 carats of oval- and pear-shaped white diamonds, and pink diamonds. POA.

Drop Earrings in 18K white and rose gold set with 77.35

carats of rare conch pearls, white and pink

diamonds. POA.

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In my last July 2018 report – post Paris Couture week – I wondered about Piaget and whether Sunlight Escape was the final chapter of a tril-ogy, which started with Sunlight Journey and was followed by Sunny Side of Life…or not. Well, It seems Sunlight Escape, and hereby the trilogy, deserved a conclusion, and what a con-clusion it is! The chapter II of Sunlight Escape is a mini collection, yet one with powerful stunts. For one, it encompasses everything that Piaget

is expert at (signature goldwork, inclusion of the unique artistry from renowned artisans that are experts in other domains, out-of-the-box creative approach) in new iconic pieces. Take the Night Illusion Necklace whose ba-guette-cut emeralds have been used as crys-tals jutting out of the main frame, reminiscent of a bird of paradise in the thick of a mating dance. The emerald ‘sticks’ look deceptive-ly like natural crystal formations. Beyond the

www.piaget.com

One-of-a-kind Green Aurora Cuff in 18K rose gold set with one cushion-cut greenish-blue tourmaline (approx. 14.53cts) and 152 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 3.49cts); with straw and wood marquetry by Rose Saneuil; Sunlight Escape. POA.

One-of-a-kind Night Illusion Necklace in 18K white gold set with one cushion-cut green emerald from Colombia (approx. 10.76cts), 18 marquise-cut green emeralds (approx. 5.23cts), 230 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 6.44cts), 33 marquise-cut blue tourmalines (approx. 6.22cts) and 42 baguette-cut green emeralds (approx. 15.21cts); Sunlight Escape. POA.

One-of-a-kind Night Illusion Ring in 18K white gold set with one cushion-cut green emerald from Colombia (approx. 5.95cts), 60 marquise-cut green emeralds (approx. 9.24cts) and 32 round-cut green emeralds; Sunlight Escape. POA.

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illusion, the neckpiece is light, fresh and re-sembles nothing that you have seen before. There is also the fabulous Frosted Star Cuff, an instant heirloom, whose certainly magnificent blue sapphire from Madagascar – the central stone – is just one component of an incredibly precise goldwork that succeeds in mimicking

frost. Lastly the Green Aurora Manchette, whose matching Earrings were presented last July, with its phenomenal wood and straw marquetry by Rose Saneuil. Imagine the com-plexity of working on a curve and confronted with two types of resistance (hard wood and pliable straw)!

www.piaget.com

White Sun Cuff Watch; Case in 18K white gold set with 12 mixed-cut diamonds (approx. 3.24cts) and 81 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.25cts); Dial in white mother-of-pearl; Piaget Manufacture 56P Quartz movement; Interchangeable white satin strap (black colour for the 2nd); Ardillon buckle in 18K white gold set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds; Sunlight Escape. POA.

White Sun Earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 cushion-cut Paraiba tourmalines from Mozambique (approx. 3.03cts), 2 cushion-cut blue tourmalines (approx. 6.48cts), 8 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 1.48cts), 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.32cts) and 2 sculpted white quartz (approx. 32.88cts); Sunlight Escape. POA.

One-of-a-kind Frosted Star Cuff in 18K white gold set with one cushion-cut blue sapphire from Madagascar (approx. 5.12cts), 8 square-cut black opals, 24 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 3.36cts), 56 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1.70cts) and 8 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.80ct); Sunlight Escape. POA.

White Illusion Ring in 18K white gold set with one pear-shaped diamond (approx. 3.01cts), 49 brilliant-cut diamonds, 5 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1ct) and 34 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 3.40cts); Sunlight Escape. POA.

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Last July, I wrote that “each of Lydia Courteille’s collections is clearly an invitation to explore and at times time travel”. This time we are transport-ed to the 18th century, invited to delve into the psyche of none other than Marie Antoinette, the last Queen of France. Marie Antoinette Dark Side is indeed an exploration of her mindset at different stages of her tumultuous life. And so,

the creations that represent her earlier years at the French court are all auspicious and radi-ant, whereas the renditions for the later years, even though still delicate, include ‘dark’ ele-ments (spiders, spider webs and skulls) that hint at her terrible fate. All through the collec-tion though, there is a common element: the specific blue hue that Lydia Courteille used

www.lydiacourteille.com

Earrings in 18K white gold set with sapphires (5.2cts) and aquamarines (1.9grs); Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA.

Ring in 18K white gold set with sapphires (5.55cts), aquamarines (5.3grs), and blue enamel; Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA.

Ring in 18K white gold set with sapphires (4.75cts) and aquamarines (0.85gr); Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA.

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to plate the gold or in titanium. This provides an enchanting cohesive tone to the ensem-ble – the artist indeed often elects one driv-ing colour for each collection – soft and mys-terious at the same time. Yellow sapphires and quartz highlight some motifs and mostly for the ‘early years’ creations, notably when it comes to evoking the sun and moon symbols.

Most pieces are delicate with lace-like effects and the proportions are unusually ‘subdued’ for Lydia Courteille usually revels in bolder at-tempts. Marie Antoinette Dark Side is noth-ing to be afraid of; it is actually a compassion-ate and non-judgmental tribute to “the woman whose charm and seductiveness was gradually degraded to unpopularity and disgrace”.

www.lydiacourteille.com

Earrings in blue titanium set with diamonds (3.9cts), sapphires and aquamarines (2.6grs); Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA.

Ring in blue titanium set with black diamonds, brown diamonds, sapphires (11.4cts), and aquamarines (11grs); Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA.

Earrings in 18K yellow gold and titanium set with brown diamonds (0.73ct), blue & yellow sapphires (6cts), aquamarines and yellow quartz; Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA.

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Another plethora of unique rings and ear-rings were on show at the Suzanne Syz pre-sentation at the Ritz Paris. It is true that these two product categories are her forte when it comes to combining innovative ideas and playfulness. Colours have also always been a passion for Syz and this has certainly in-fluenced the nature of her personal contem-porary art collection, from which she rou-tinely finds inspiration. Taking the concept of marrying art and jewellery to a higher lev-el, she has designed the We are Your Art

Collection Earrings. The idea is to offer col-lectors the opportunity to have their own favourite artworks reproduced onto titani-um earrings. The ultimate wearable art offer. Other head-turning pieces are the Star Ship and the Robinets Earrings, two sensational takes on Pop Art and humorous clin d’oeil. As for rings, Syz has a knack for large carat central stones once again in vibrant colours as seen in the hot Orange Velvet spessartite garnet or Grass Green Velvet peridot rings, a redefinition of what solitaires can be.

www.suzannesyz.chRobinets Earrings in white gold set with 36 diamonds and 10 green tourmalines (9.69cts). POA.

Arctic Ice Ring in silver and enamel set with one 8.80-carat Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique. POA.

Almond Green Ring in gold and ceramic set with one green tourmaline. POA.

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www.suzannesyz.ch

Andy Warhol, We are Your Art Collection Earrings in gold and titanium set with 16 diamonds. POA.

Star Ship Earrings in gold and titanium set with diamonds. POA.

Orange Velvet Ring in gold and enamel set with one 11.89-carat spessartite garnet. POA.