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12 October 2014

The cab driver stopped on the bustling boulevard Pho Hue and pointed at a mishmash of

incongruent four and five-story buildings across the street. I hopped out and dodged buzzing

motorbikes and exhaustbelching cars, trying to get from curb to curb.

Then I spotted it: Banh Mi Pho Hue (118 Ph Hu; 84-4-3822-5009), the no-frills sandwich

shop named for the Hanoi street on which it sits. Nearly everyone Id asked had said Banh

Mi Pho Hue served the tastiest banh mi in Hanoi. But the family thats run the shop since

1974 has a reputation for closing it whenever the cooks run out of ingredients. So when I

arrived at 7pm on a Saturday and found it still open, I was delighted.

Translated simply as wheat, the banh mi is a delicious and ever-varying combination of

deli-style pork, pate and veggies (think carrots, cilantro, cucumber, etc), stuffed into a soft

and crunchy French baguette. Regional variations in Vietnam involve adding headcheese,

pork sausage and various other vegetables.

In an age of hipster food mashups Korean tacos, anyone? the banh mi is the product of

a true cultural and culinary blend. No food trucks, Instagram photos or tweets led to its

creation. The sandwich began with colonialism specifically, the establishment of French

Indochina in 1887 when the occupying French simply slathered butter and pate inside a

baguette. Then when the Vietnamese sent the French packing in 1954, they put their own

spin on the sandwich, adding slices of pork, herbs and pickled vegetables, and creating the

banh mi as we know it.

The rest of the world didnt learn about this spectacular sandwich until after the end of the

Vietnam War in 1975. As many southern Vietnamese emigrated to the United States,

Europe and Australia, they brought recipes, including one for their iconic sandwich. As a

result, if youre eating a banh mi outside of Vietnam, youre probably enjoying a southern-

style snack: the baguettes are generally bigger and theyre crammed with more veggies and

herbs, such as cilantro, carrots and hot peppers.

Oddly, the banh mi has always been the one kind of food I liked better outside its home turf.

When I tried a banh mi in Ho Chi Minh City a few years earlier, Id found the bread stale and

the ingredients skimpy; inside was a paltry mix of a few slices of ham, a smear of pate and

flaccid cilantro and carrots. I gave up after one sandwich. Id had far better banh mi in New

York City; even Minneapolis! Was I crazy? Could the banh mi outside of Vietnam actually be

better? Now back in Vietnam, I was determined to find out the truth. Would my faith in the

banh mi in its homeland be restored? Is the banh mi the best sandwich in the world?

At Banh Mi Pho Hue, Geoffrey Deetz a chef and Vietnamese food expert whos been living

in the country for nearly 15 years was peppering the sandwich maker with questions about

ingredients. Meanwhile, Id just been served my banh mi, partially covered with piece of

white paper affixed with a rubber band.

I pulled back a side of the baguette to get a look at the ingredients: pork deli meat, fatty char

siu pork, pork floss, creamy pate, Chinese 5 spice and, curiously, butter. The sandwich

maker finished it off by pouring pork-chili gravy inside. Interestingly, I saw none of the herbs

and veggies that spill out of the baguettes served in southern Vietnam or outside of the

country.

The banh mi sandwiches in Hanoi are much more one dimensional than other parts of the

country, Deetz told me. If you gave someone here the kind of over-stuffed, herb-laden

sandwich youve eaten in other parts of the country, theyd probably throw up.

Happily, I didnt throw up. This banh mi was radically different, true. But it was just as good

as the sandwiches Id eaten elsewhere. The crunch of bread was followed by an interplay of

porky goodness with a slight kick of spice. It was more like a meat sandwich. I loved it.

They dont really like overly complex food in Hanoi, Deetz added. But so many things in

here have a function: the pork floss soaks up the sauce, the pate adds moisture and the fact

that the baguette is lightly toasted keeps it from getting soggy in this immense humidity. A

man rides a rickshaw in Hoi An, Vietnam. (Hoang Dinh Nam/Getty)

While in Vietnam, I also tried a banh mi in Hoi An, a Unesco World Heritage-designated city

on the central coast. In a region known for fertile soil and vibrant herbs, its no surprise the

sandwiches there are stuffed with verdant vegetables.

As I did in Hanoi, I asked everyone who would listen where I could find the best banh mi

around. The answer was Banh Mi Phuong (Phan Chau Trinh 2B) a diminutive shop in the

centre of town. I ordered the classic, which the menu board indicated contained bread, pork,

ham, pate. But there was so much more: long slices of cucumber, fresh cilantro, pickled

carrot and even juicy tomato slices. Phoung finished it off with a flurry of sauces: a squirt of

chili sauce and two different pork sauces, one from boiled pork and one from smoked pork.

Vietnam hotel

The key to a good banh mi is, in fact, the bread. A bad baguette a hard, crumbly log will

ruin an otherwise fine sandwich. Phuongs bread, baked right next door, was ultra-soft,

almost deflating when I took a bite, while also maintaining a crispy exterior. Top that

(literally) with highquality pork, two different pork-based sauces and a few surprises like

tomato and pickled papaya and I had a very good sandwich in my hands.

All told, I sampled about 15 banh mi sandwiches over two weeks in Vietnam. Happily, Id

eaten some of the best sandwiches Id ever had. That banh mi I tried in Saigon a few years

ago the one that turned me off to the sandwich for a while was just a fluke.

But is the banh mi the best sandwich in the world?

Theres scene in The Simpsons in which Homer expresses bewilderment when his daughter,

Lisa, becomes a vegetarian.

What about bacon? Homer asks.

No! Lisa says.

Ham?

No!

Pork chops?

No! Lisa says. Dad, those all come from the same animal!

Yeah right, Homer says. A wonderful, magical, animal.

Something that combines so much pork with fresh herbs all stuffed into a crispy baguette is,

I have to say, a pretty magical sandwich.

Visit to Vu Linh, Vietnam

A Visit to Local village in Vietnam We buy a lot of stuff from our neighbors, said Asger Koppen, managing director of Topas Travel, the Danish parent company of Topas Ecolodge, which lies among such villages near Vietnams border with China. The idea was to make a showcase of sustainable tourism in a poor area.

The lodges are a departure from the typical accommodations available in and around the northern town of Sapa, the epicenter of the countrys ethnic-minority tourism, where the usual choice is between Vietnamese hotels and basic homestays.

But while many guests have enjoyed the boutique retreats, Mr. Binh and other managers say, they have not been particularly successful from a financial standpoint.

Topas Ecolodge, 11 miles from Sapa, was one of the first foreign-run lodges in the ethnic hinterland. It sits atop terraced rice paddies at an elevation of about 3,280 feet and has panoramic views of the nearby Hoang Lien Son Mountains. The lodge has 25 bungalows and a restored stilt house that was remodeled to reflect Scandinavian design elements. A two-night stay, including breakfasts, train travel from Hanoi and a shuttle transfer, costs $236 per couple.

The lodge employs about 60 full-time workers, mostly from six local ethnic-minority groups, Mr. Koppen said. Most of the staff members receive years of language and hospitality training, and the lodge purchases the bulk of its food, materials and decorations locally.

The lodge has not yet broken even, Mr. Koppen added, it now is use in Vietnam Package tour

Lo A Cuong, a tour guide from the Tay ethnic group, who has worked at Topas Ecolodge for nine years, said the lodge was seen by people in nearby villages as a good place to work and learn new skills. He said many tourists were impressed by the lodges picturesque setting and proximity to traditional farming. They dont have rice fields like this in their countries, he said.

In 2013, Bho Hoong, a similar business to Topas Ecolodge, opened in an ethnic-minority village in central Vietnam. It is about 50 miles inland from the coastal tourism magnet of Hoi An, a Unesco World Heritage site, and just a stones throw from the former Ho Chi Minh Trail, the supply route used by North Vietnamese troops during the Vietnam War.

Bho Hoong villagers are from the Co Tu minority group, and Active Adventures Vietnam, the local company behind the business, markets the lodge as an authentic experience with a modern twist: The five bungalows have contemporary amenities like king-size beds and marble-accented bathrooms.

As the country becomes more of a mainstream destination catering to mid-range and high-end travelers, more clients want the experience but dont want to rough it, said Mark Wyndham, the managing director of Active Adventures Travel Vietnam.

Guests can enjoy treks and ethnic music performances by villagers, but the projects most important achievement, Mr. Wyndham said, is generating extra income for locals that may help preserve traditional cultures or reduce pressure on young people to migrate to the cities.

Its, in a sense, trying to hold back a bit of globalization, he said.

The project is more than just a business. It was created in coordination with the provincial authorities and the International Labor Organization, a United Nations agency that provided technical assistance and $50,000 in initial funding, said Nguyen Thi Huyen, national coordinator for the agencys sustainable and responsible tourism program. Ms. Huyen said her office viewed public-private tourism partnerships as a promising model that could spread beyond Bho Hoong to other Vietnamese regions.

At La Vie Vu Linh, Mr. Binhs efforts do not just provide Dao villagers with jobs and tourists with somewhere to sleep at 1.2 million dong, or $55, a night, or less, for a private room. He has also recruited teachers to give his employees lessons in English, French, hospitality, theater and even circus arts. (Before moving to Vietnam in the 1990s, Mr. Binh managed a traveling circus camp in Ireland.) He said he also planned to open a floating fruit and vegetable market on the lake to promote sustainable agriculture in Vu Linh.

Tuong Van Thuong, a villager, said the lodge benefits the local economy and has helped promote and protect Dao culture. He said he and several other neighbors were operating their own homestay businesses.

Antoine Colmet-Daage, a French graduate student, visited La Vie Vu Linh in 2013, as part of a weeklong motorcycle tour of northern Vietnam. He said he enjoyed learning about Mr. Binhs farming projects and noted that the modern comforts and tranquil setting were a relief after long days of riding bumpy roads on a motorcycle.

He added that he was surprised to find that he and a friend were the only guests. I didnt understand how a place like that could be so empty, he said in a telephone interview from Toulouse, France.

On a recent afternoon at La Vie Vu Linh, the premises were again all but empty, except for Mr. Binh, his wife and a few of the lodges 15 employees. Mr. Binh acknowledged that he did not advertise most of his bookings are made through travel agencies or international schools seeking cultural immersion programs.

He has not recouped his initial investments, including about $350,000 for structures that accommodate as many as 80 guests, and $6,000 for solar heaters and water filtration and biogas-capture systems. The expense almost killed my company, he said with a laugh, referring to his motorcycle touring business.

Vietnam Travel Guide

Area:

331,210 sq km (127,881 sq miles).

Population:

93.4 million (2014).

Population density:

282.1 per sq km.

Capital:

Hanoi.

Government:

Socialist republic.

Head of state:

President Truong Tan Sang since 2011.

Head of government:

Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung since 2006.

Electricity:

220 volts AC, 50Hz. Plugs with two flat pins, two round pins or three square pins are used.

Some destinations evoke mental images the moment their names are mentioned, and Vietnam is

one of them. A frenetic and fascinating country, it calls to mind conical-hatted street vendors,

water buffalo plodding across rice fields, mopeds buzzing through cities and floating markets on

the Mekong River.

The days when Vietnam was best known for its conflict with America are long gone. From the

temples of Hanoi and the islands of Halong Bay to the beaches of Nha Trang and the palaces of

Hue, it is a country now firmly etched in the travel psyche.

At times, Vietnam package tour is an assault on the senses. Life in its feverish cities is conducted

largely on the streets, among chattering bia hois (pavement pubs) and steaming pho (noodle

soup) stands. The countrys two main cities Hanoi in the north, Ho Chi Minh in the south are

different in many ways, but they share an intoxicating energy. Ancient pagodas and colonial

houses jostle for space with new-build skyscrapers, while labyrinthine back-alleys hum with life.

These narrow streets are atmospheric places to spend time, day or night.

The countrys long, thin shape, sometimes compared to two rice baskets at either end of a pole,

means these two cities form natural start and end points to an itinerary. The highlights along the

way, meanwhile, are as well packed as the spring rolls which adorn market stalls: nature-lovers,

history buffs, beach bums and foodies are all catered for in singularly Vietnamese style.

Those heading into the countryside can expect not only glorious scenery, but a rich cultural web of

different ethnic groups. The US wartime legacy can still be readily explored perhaps most

notably at the Cu Chi Tunnels near Ho Chi Minh but this is a country to enjoy for what it is today,

whether youre here for a few days or a month.

Travel Advice

Crime

Most visits to Vietnam are trouble free but you should take sensible precautions to protect yourself

and your belongings.

Carry a photocopy of the pages from your passport with your personal details and visa for ID, and

leave the original document in a safe place.

There has been a reported increase in incidents of personal belongings and bags being snatched,

including from people travelling on motorbikes. Thieves cut the straps or bottoms of bags. Some

thieves have resorted to physical violence, though this is not common. You should remain alert

and take care of your belongings, particularly in crowded areas and places visited by tourists

where pick pockets and bag snatchers operate.

Sexual assaults are rare, but you should take sensible precautions and travel with friends when

possible. Vietnam Package tour

There have been reports of arguments over hotel, restaurant or taxi bills turning violent or

abusive. It is well worth researching places to stay before you arrive. To avoid potential disputes,

make sure you are clear about the level of service you can expect to receive and any associated

charges.

There have been reports of scams targeting tourists, involving fake charities, gambling and taxis.

Local travel

Travel is restricted near military installations and some areas of Vietnam are fairly inaccessible. If

you wish to visit a village, commune or ward that is close to the border you may need to get

permission from the provincial police department. Contact the relevant local authority for more

information.

Dont stray off main routes in rural areas and check with your tour operator before setting off.

There have been mountain climbing accidents in the north of Vietnam. Vietnam food tour You

should follow safety guidelines and procedures and make sure you are supervised by a reputable

guide.

Undertake any leisure activities which include firearms at your own risk and make sure you are

supervised by a reputable guide. There have been reports of hearing loss from those close to these

activities.

Unexploded mines and ordnance are a continuing hazard in former battlefields, particularly in

central Vietnam and along the Laos Border, formerly traversed by the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Mined

areas are often unmarked.

Vietnam tour advice

Road travel

To drive a car or motorcycle, you will need to get a Vietnamese driving licence from the Hanoi

Department of Public Works and Transportation (telephone:+84 4 3843 5325) or the Ho Chi Minh

City Department of Public Works and Transportation (telephone: +84 8 3829 0451 or 0452). Dont

use your passport as a deposit for hiring vehicles or in place of a fine in the event of a traffic

offence.

The standard of driving and vehicle maintenance is poor. There are frequent accidents and fatal

crashes. Accidents can result in costly medical bills and you may not be covered by your

insurance. Its illegal to be on a motorbike without a helmet. Helmet safety standards vary.

Traffic accidents tend to attract a large crowd. If you are involved in a traffic accident you could

face criminal charges and you may need to pay compensation to the injured person even if the

injuries are minor. [URL="http://asiapearltravel.com/tour/vietnam-car-rental-from-different-

cities/"]Vietnam car rental[/URL] You will be given a receipt for any official fine. If you are subject

to an investigation, offer the police your full co-operation and inform the British Embassy in Hanoi

or Consulate General in Hoi Chi Minh City.

Metered taxis from larger firms are generally reliable. There are many taxi operators and meters

are set at different prices. The meter should start at around 8,000 to 20,000 VND. Where possible

get hotels or restaurants to book you a reputable taxi.

There have been reports of overcharging for taxi journeys from airports. Check the published fares

near the taxi stands before starting your journey.

Bus and coach crashes are not unusual. Vehicles are often poorly maintained. The risk of death or

injury on the road increases if you travel at night. When travelling by bus be vigilant against petty

theft. Dont accept offers of free transfers to hotels unless organised in advance, as these are

likely to be bogus.

Rail travel in Vietnam is generally safe. Be vigilant against petty theft. There have been numerous

reports of personal belongings being stolen while people are asleep on the train between Hanoi

and Sapa.

Sea travel

There have been a number of fatal boat accidents in Vietnam, some involving foreign nationals in

Halong Bay, including a major incident in October 2012. Safety regulations and standards vary

greatly and are not at the same level as the United Kingdom. Check with your tour guide about the

safety record and registration of boats, and the certification of personnel before setting off. Make

sure you receive a full safety briefing when joining any boat. Consider safety standards carefully

before taking an overnight boat trip on [URL="asiapearltravel.com"]Halong Bay cruise[/URL] as

some boats have sunk quickly and without warning.

Piracy has been known to occur in coastal areas off Vietnam. Mariners should be vigilant, reduce

opportunities for attacks, establish secure areas onboard and report all incidents to the coastal and

flag state authorities.

Political situation

Vietnam has a single party political system, which does not welcome dissent. Internal conflict is

rare. Some protests in May turned violent. You should avoid all protests.

Consular assistance

Providing prompt consular assistance is difficult outside Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City because of

poorly developed infrastructure. Some places are a flight away with only 1 daily flight.

Things to see and do in Vietnam

Beautiful beaches

The beaches of Vietnam are superb. Nha Trang is the perfect combination of a long sandy beach

for relaxing days under the palm trees and a town with restaurants and bars to pass the balmy

evenings. Boat trips take you out to nearby islands and divers can explore the nearby coral reefs.

Alternatively, try Vung Tau, southeast of Ho Chi Minh City for some superb snorkelling around the

many offshore islands or head east of Phan Thiet to the sand dunes of Mui Ne, which stretch for

miles. Whatever your budget there'll be a resort to suit you. Relax on the white-sand beaches or

have a go at many of the water sports on offer.

Cao Dai Temple

Head out to Tay Ninh to view the colourful midday service of the intriguing Cao Dai sect held in a

large temple almost Disney-esque in style. The followers wear red, blue and yellow robes and

chant to the accompaniment of a traditional orchestra. En route, scramble through the tunnels at

Cu Chi, from where the Viet Cong successfully launched attacks against US forces.

Central Highlands

Dalat is as far as most people go into the Central Highlands but head further into the mountains

for stunning views and waterfalls. You are assured of a warm welcome in Buon Ma Thuot, a coffee

growing region and home to the Montagnards. The Ho Chi Minh trail is easily reached from

Kontum.

Cooking lessons

Learn the subtleties of Vietnamese cookery at a class in ancient Hoi An. Submerge into the hustle

and bustle of the market to buy provisions before retreating to the calm of the kitchen. The best

part of the day you get to eat what you have helped prepare!

Dalat

To escape the heat of the plains, head for Dalat, a former colonial hill station, reminiscent of a

French town, with faded, elegant villas evocative of another era. This is Best places to visit in

Vietnam Colonists from Saigon headed to its cool climes as well as the emperor and his entourage.

The romantic lakes and alpine scenery are magnets for Vietnamese honeymooners.

Halong Bay

Sure it is touristy, and if you take a boat trip you'll be among a flotilla of dozens of old converted

junks, but Halong Bay Vietnam still remains one of the most impressive sights in the world. Take

the opportunity to borrow a kayak (all boats should do this) and paddle through the limestone

karsts dramatically rising up out of the sea. Or spend the night on one of those junks and explore

the caves hidden deep in the islands, pass floating villages and at night enjoy a sundowner on the

top deck and look out for shooting stars.

Hanoi

Hanoi is a city of contrasts with the wide, leafy boulevards lined by beautiful colonial buildings in

the French quarter, the maze of narrow streets of the Old Quarter and the tranquil lakes.

Wherever you are, the background noise is the buzzing of the motorbikes that crowd the streets of

the capital.

Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City by train

A trip on the Reunification Express is a must. However, the trains between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh

City are certainly not express. It can take between 30 and 40 hours to travel between the two

cities so best to do one section only. Popular is the 18-hour journey between Hanoi and Hue.

Hiking

There are hundreds of long distance hiking trails around the country, and a significant

infrastructure for visitors wanting guided hiking tours. Head south from Hanoi into Cuc Phuong

National Park, a wilderness of forest-covered limestone mountains which rise up from the green

rice paddies, home to many rare species and the primate rescue centre. Spend the night with a

family from the Muong hill tribe in their traditional stilthouse.

Things to see and do in Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City

Gleaming skyscrapers sit side by side with ramshackle buildings and crumbling colonial houses.

Monks pass deluxe car showrooms collecting alms and walk along sun-baked streets crammed with

honking motorbikes. The Saigon River is constantly crossed by small boats and ferries weaving

through larger boats.

Ho Chi Minh Trail history tour

See some of the Vietnam War sights by walking part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, used as supply

routes by the North Vietnamese during the war. You can't fail to be intrigued by the network of

tunnels excavated by the Viet Cong from which they launched regular attacks on the US forces.

For a taste of life underground scramble through one of the narrow tunnels, specially widened for

Western visitors.

Hoi An

Meander the narrow streets with their tiny shop houses, relax in a riverside bar and savour tasty

local dishes. This is the place to buy souvenirs, silk items, T-shirts and ceramics. Whatever you do

make sure you treat yourself by having clothes made at one of the many tailors.

Hu

The former imperial city of Hue is crammed with wonderful sights. The Imperial Citadel, suffering

from the ravages and war and the tropical weather, Vietnam car rental is slowly being

painstakingly renovated; riverside is the Thien Mu pagoda where novice monks peek shyly at the

visitors; and the mausoleums of the Emperors, each unique in style.

Meet the locals

The best way to meet the locals is to pull up a low plastic chair in the pavement bar order some

beer, order fresh peanuts and quails eggs and chat to the locals. Even with a language barrier,

you'll be clinking glasses long into the night.

Mekong Delta

Explore the watery world of the Mekong Delta where channels of the might Mekong Delta

crisscross the land and provide a fertile place to grow vast swathes of rice and fruit. Discover

riverine towns, floating markets and small riverside industries and spend the night in a homestay

with a farming family.

Motorbiking

It is becoming increasingly popular to hire a motor bike - invariably a Russian made 125cc Minsk -

and ride it from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. Riddled with all sorts of dangers, not least the vast

amount of bikes in the cities, it is nevertheless an exhilarating way to see the country. Vietnam

food tour

River markets

The river markets on the Mekong Delta are an unmissable sight. Life here is dominated by the

mighty Mekong and much of Vietnam's rice crop is grow, and the floating markets are still an

essential part of life in the south. Get up early to experience Can Tho floating market at its best.

Dozens of wooden boats, many that have seen better days, carry the freshest fruit and vegetables.

Smaller boats weave through them perusing the wares and the morning air is filled with the sound

of good-natured haggling over price.

Sapa hill tribes

Sapa's stunning alpine scenery is home to several hill tribe villages where life continues pretty

much unchanged. Many can be reached by jeep but to get to the more remote villages be

prepared to hike. The reward is an overnight in a stilthouse with a family resplendent in riotously

colourful traditional costume.