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A short guide to the places where UNAM's students spent their free time.
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“So…” my lovely boss said “Do you know
any pedagogues or not?” That was a good
question… well, not the question itself but all
what it implied. That week at the office
things got complicated by the lack of
personnel. For the next week we needed
about 3 psychologists, 5 pedagogues and 7
accountants, willing to work with us for free
(well, it was about social service, but in our
office its almost the same), and so far we had
success only with one Freudian psychologist
and two clueless administration students
(those count as accountants, right?). So,
basically we were still in big troubles.
Her question was innocent and free of malice
(or that’s what I tried to tell myself), after all,
I’m studying Economics at the UNAM, the
university with most students of the country,
so I should know a truckload of people,
right? I had to know dozens of acquaintances
and friends from all age groups, majors,
income and prettiness levels, so I should
know about a couple of pedagogues or
psychologists, right? Well, to be honest, of
about 200 people that I had the opportunity
to meet in UNAM, most of them are fellow
economists, like me, at the school and the
rest are the engineers that usually populate
the CELE.
It’s not an aspect of my life that surprises
me, after all, most of the places that I go to
socialize are mainly small reunions with close
friends that end with me screaming in pain
the next day, swearing that’s the last time I
drink alcohol in my life, so it would be naïve
to think otherwise.
Now, I needed to meet new people, I needed
to go out and learn a little about the social
life at my own university and get those
volunteers to my office but, where do the
accountants dwell? Where do the social
workers drink? Where are the places where
dentists go dancing? When do the law
students plan their next evil scheme?
So, instead of solving the problem at hand in
my office (and other insignificant things, like
completing my major thesis or my final
exams) I armed myself with 138 hastly-made
surveys and I went around Ciudad
Universitaria (UNAM’s main campus) in the
Pumabus (the university’s transport system)
to find out, and in the process, give you
some tips and recommendations about
which places you can visit and meet all those
wonderful people that take classes at UNAM.
SO MANY PLACES, SO LITTLE TIME
First, we must understand some little facts
about or “social habits” when we are going
out in Mexico City.
Mexico City is a huge place, with over five
thousand restaurants, bars and nightclubs.
It’s almost impossible to name them all or
just the ones that students like. With so
many places available it’s natural that every
person has their own personal favorites, all
of them scattered along the 2000 square
kilometers that conform this city.
By Omar Luciano López Velázquez
Nevertheless, it was possible to find some
favorite places in the surveys, most of them
preferred by their location, close to Ciudad
Universitaria. One of the main reasons for
this is transportation time. Most students do
not live close to campus. In fact, many live
several minutes, even hours away. So, if you
live far in the north like in Tlanepantla or
Naucalpan (far in the north of the City), you
probably won’t find attractive the idea to go
to drink to Coyoacan or Xochimilco, (both
sections located far in the south), on top of
the 2 or 3 hours that it will take you to go
back home.
Coyoacan’s main square
So, in the next sections I’ll try to show you
just the main activities, the two or three
places that received more mentions and
some recommendations if you are planning
to go there. Let’s start.
PARTY HARD!
The first significant findings in my
investigation had to do with the student’s
preferences to spend their free time. An
overwhelming amount prefers to go drinking
and dancing. Of course, this is not
particularly surprising. A lot of young people
around the country and the western world
like to go out and have fun with a little help
of alcohol. But what really surprised me is
the fact that most of them are not very
different from me with regards to going out.
To my surprise, 11.7% of all the people
surveyed prefers to go to local parties, and
from that total, almost 80% prefer to go with
the almost the same people and close friends
every weekend. Even the people who prefer
to go to nightclubs admitted that they still
liked to go to small parties with close friends
from their major or school. Massive big
parties with dozens, if not hundreds of
people were not amiss (2.1% of the total),
but those were certainly atypical. The most
common activity was just to hand around the
very close friends always in one of their
places.
Now, as I said, this surprised me at first. As
an almost social pariah, I imagined that the
rest of the university population were much
more outgoing and looking forward to
making new friends and that loners, like me,
were atypical students, preferring to go to
intimate reunions only with the closest
friends. But once I heard their explanations,
my surprise vanished right away.
Those reasons were almost the same. In the
first place, we have costs. When you go to a
friend’s house you don’t have to worry about
entrance fees or overpriced drinks. You just
go to your friend’s house after a short visit to
the nearest supermarket for the
corresponding alcoholic products, play some
music and you have got yourself a nice party.
There are also some security factors to
explain this preference. Maybe we don’t like
to accept it, but a lot of nasty stuff can
happen in big parties or even in respected
established night clubs; from wallet thefts
from waiters, to violent fights fuelled by
alcohol. The dangers of going out are many.
Also, there is the problem of transportation.
Most of UNAM’s students do not own a car,
so if a vehicle is unavailable, the parties and
get together need to finish earlier in order to
avoid being left stranded in the middle of the
city once the buses routes stop running.
Likewise, it’s not worth paying a high
entrance fee in and expensive drinks in a
club if the fun is going to end by 10:00 pm.
Last but not least, there is the cultural factor
in the Mexican culture; we just love to hang
out with our friends, enjoying the company
of persons that we know best and who we
got a special emotional bond with. I guess
that makes us feel secure and happy.
Now, if you were planning to meet new
people while you are studying at UNAM,
please do not feel discouraged by this
information, make new friends in Mexico is
easy, just talk a little with your own
classmates and you’ll find a friendly group
that would accept you in no time. Once you
got some friends, it’s even easier to get
invited in this kind of parties, in fact, it’s
almost unavoidable.
Some recommendation to keep an eye if you
are planning to go to bigger parties include
going with close friends or acquaintances,
keep an eye on your belongings if you are
planning to drink too much (you never
know!), and relax.
Also, most of the parties take place in the
south of the city, in neighborhoods like
Coyoacan, San Angel, Coapa or Pedregal
(43.75%) or around Ciudad Universitaria
(25%), so, if you are looking for a flat, it could
be a good idea to look around those areas…
unless you don’t want to end being the host
of those parties, of course.
About the kind of students that you are
going to find, well, considering that we are
talking about small parties, you can bet you
are going to find people from your school,
but if you are from the Philosophy or
Architecture schools, your chance to get in
one of those parties increases.
Now, I guess you will find it easy to get
invited to those small and personal reunions
with people of your own major, but if you
are reading this, I suppose that you want to
find good places to go out and maybe meet
some of your peers from other schools, and
I’m not going to let you down.
COFFEE AND DINER
I know that I’ve been talking about alcohol
and that the first thing that I think about
non-academic activities somehow involves it,
but that’s not true for all the students in this
university.
A noticeable 29% of all the people surveyed
do not consider alcohol an indispensable
element in their fun. Their favorite activities
include going to a nice place to have a good
meal (7.2% of the total), go to the movies,
(6.5%), to a café (5.8%), to walking or
shopping (5.07%) and some cultural
activities, like the theatre and museums
(2.17%).
Sport activities take a rather meager rate of
just 2.17% of the total, so I guess that’s why
we are so fat in this country. But to be fair,
many students actually play some kind of
sport, like the ever popular soccer or
racquetball, it’s just that practicing sports is
not our favorite activity.
The preferred places to eat are, again, mainly
around Ciudad Universitaria and Coyocan’s
central square. This sounds logical as at lunch
time you probably are… well… listening to
lectures, so going to “La Condesa”
neighborhood for a couple of sandwiches
between classes seems kind of stupid. With
the demand of over 100,000 students, the
places to enjoy a good taco are virtually
impossible to name all and, from all the
surveys, not even one place was repeated.
My recommendation is to try out the
Architecture and the Philosophy School
cafeterias if you want something cheap and
not too fancy, (although the Architecture
cafeteria is a little more expensive). If you
are feeling adventurous and you don’t care
too much about decoration, science school
cafeteria is a good option. In case you are
not afraid of the “Montezuma’s revenge”,
near the science school cafeteria you will
find several other options In some informal
food carts that range from homemade
cooking to a salad bar.
The Cineteca Nacional is famous for displaying international
cinema
If you want to get a little far away from the
campus, you could check “Las Tortugas”,
which is near subway Copilco station you can
reach it coming out from the Medicine
School pass going to the station, after the
7/11 store. You need to try the “enchiladas
suizas” and the salads. In front of “Las
Tortugas” you can find a Japanese restaurant
if you are already tired of Mexican food.
Also, close to those ones there is “El Ciruelo”
in “Paseo de las Facultades” street, famous
for its “Arrachera” steak. Finally, next to the
entrance to the metro station you can find
“Los Tres Poblanos”. Try their “aguas frescas”
(cold and natural fruit flavored drinking
sodas).
American fast food chains are not exactly
favorites among the student population, but
there were a couple of mentions about them
in the surveys, so, if you want standard
flavors it’s your call.
Not all is about food, and if you just want to
enjoy a good cup of coffee and good chat,
you can find several great cafés along
Coyoacan and Tlalpan central squares. There
not only can you get to meet UNAM’s
students, but also some arty people, like
Did you know that there
are over 9 cafeterias and
102 fast food shops around
Ciudad Uivesitaria??
writers and future artists. If it’s certainly true
that chains like Starbucks are winning market
share among the students but they are not
the main favorites of the students. The
favorite places use to be small coffee shops
not too fancy and with bohemian aura. Still,
that doesn’t means that those coffee shops
can’t turn into chains, an example is “El
Jarocho”, famous for their great taste and
cheap prices. You can find the “original” café
a few meters away from Coyoacan’s main
square, but there are several ones scattered
along the south of the city . For something
different, you could try “La Ruta de Seda”, a
small place near the “Miguel Angel de
Quevedo” subway station, on the avenue
with the same name. It was recommended
due to its “passara” tea and cakes like
“Kyoto” and “Tartetatia” (do not try to
pronounce it fast…).
Going to the movies remains a popular
activity, with the “Cinepolis” chain
complexes winning the market share of
students, the favorites being the ones
located in “Perisur” and “Universidad” malls.
But if you want foreign and art films, the
most popular place is “La Cineteca Nacional”,
located by Coyocan’s metro station, just
behind “Centro Coyoacan” mall, which is
actually cheaper than Cinepolis or Cinemex
movie chains.
Finally, if you want to enjoy a cultural event,
there is the “Centro Cultural Universitario”
inside UNAM’s campus where you can find
always a dance recital, a play or just take a
tour to the “Museo Universitario de Arte
Contemporaneo”, to find a little taste of
what modern artist have to offer.
I’M STILL SOBBER…
If you are like me, you are probably anxious
to know where the booze and the nice chicks
get together, but as in all the previous
sections, we need to understand first some
aspects of Mexican society.
When you are planning to go out in México
City, you must be aware of the kind of place
that you might want to go to, the kind of
things that you’d like to do and how much
money you want to spend. I think we all do
this no matter what part of the world you are
from, but in a country like Mexico, with
drastic income differences among social
spheres, this becomes an aspect to consider
more carefully.
Having said this, I’ve categorized the places
recommended into the amount of money
that the students usually expend there and
into the kind of people that usually go there.
So, let’s start.
THIS PLACE IS SO RAD, BRO!
First, let’s start with the “nice” places, for
“nice places” I mean sites located in well
established neighborhoods or districts, with
good services and usually close to high-
income residences or commercial zones.
These places are generally more expensive
than others, so you can expect to find high-
income students.
A still image of a typical night in the Pata Negra
From this category, a night out can cost you
(and only you) between $400 and $1000
pesos, and maybe more. Most of the
recommended places are located in the
“Condesa” and “Roma” sections, where most
of the offer of restaurants, bars and clubs are
located. Expect to find young students, not
only from UNAM but from several private
universities, and the kind of music you’ll hear
it is going to be alternative and electronic.
For the preferences among students, a
whopping 18.11% of the students attend
with some regularity to these places. It’s an
interesting number considering that most of
the UNAM´s students can’t afford those
places.
One of the favorites clubs was “El Pata
Negra”, located in Juan Escutia and
Tamaulipas Street, near Mexico Park, fancied
by its great casual environment (the mojitos
are recommended). Favorite mainly among
psychologists, phisicians and dentists was the
“Bulldog Café” or just “Bull”, as most people
refer to it, located in Revolución Avenue and
Rubens, near Mixcoac subway station. Expect
to find many students from other universities
here, and also, be careful with anything
strange that the waiters put on your drink, as
some have reported it provokes a little eh…
let’s say… “adverse sexual behavior”.
But one of the main favorite and the most
recommended places, not only from this
segment but from all the surveys in general
(with a 2.9% of the total), was “Centro
Cultural de España”, located in the center of
Mexico City, in Guatemala Street # 18, just
behind the cathedral. The place was favored
by its original concept. The place mixes the
bar aspect with all sorts of cultural activities,
for example, they have an art gallery
showing recent tendencies in art from
national and international artists, also there
are several programs and courses special
events. Another important aspect of the
place was the magnificent view of the
terrace. If you are planning to go, try the
Chocolate Martini, the Mojitos and wear
casual (NO sneakers or cap casual). Expect to
find students from the architecture school.
Main gate to Centro Cultural de España
NOT SOO MUCH, NOT SO LITTLE
Now let’s talk about the middle income
places, which prices ranged from expending
$150 to $350 pesos the night. These places
make up the majority of the results (18.84%),
so you’ll find here the most diverse student
population. This sector is composed by
people not too rich that go to the “Bull”
every weekend but not so poor to forget
about Fridays completely. Here I found a
marked shift in the geographic area of the
city, moving from La Condesa neighborhood,
to the south of the city and the surroundings
of Ciudad Universitaria.
Many different places were recommended in
Coyoacan, Coapa and San Angel
neighborhoods, although no place in
particular was mentioned more than once, I
recommend that you check out Coyacan’s
downtown, Acoxpa and Cafetales Avenues in
Coapa and “El Elemental” bar in Santa Ursula
Avenue (try out the “gomichelas”, beer with
lime, chili and jelly sweets).
The most favored place in this segment, with
2.9% of the total, was the “Rosso” Billiard
room, most commonly known just as “The
billiard close to Copilco”. The difference with
the other most favored place (Centro
Cultural España) is that what makes it special
is not an original concept or exotic drinks nor
the view. It is simply that it is too darn close
to the Filosophy, Law, Economics and
Dentistry schools, so it receives a good influx
of students from those schools. Located in
Cerro del Agua Street and Copilco Avenue
very close to the Copilco subway station, its
main highlight is the Thursday´s karaoke,
where the main activity is not to sing, but to
make fun of those who do. The other
highlight: the cheap beer. Funny enough, no
one recommended the billiard tables.
A rare view, El cenote Azul is empty…
Another favored place was “El Cenote Azul”,
located just 10 minutes away from the
Medicine School in Alfonso Pruneda Street
#24, the restaurant-bar is preferred by its
proximity to the university, its comfortable
environment, ample space and the pizzas
prepared there. El Cenote Azul also works as
a hostel so you should consider staying there
if you plan to come to UNAM just for a
couple of days.
NO ONE UNDESTANDS ME!
For the next to the last segment I’ve chosen
to name the most “alternative places”, and
believe that I mean it when I say
“alternative”. These places are in the same
list because they share a very specific market
niche, the one where kids paint their hair in
different colors, use black clothes and
“Terrible service, terrible
environment, too expensive and they
can’t even keep a reservation” Pharmaceutics Student about
“Sinatra” a karaoke bar located in Insurgentes
Avenue
extravagant looks. Here you will find Goths,
punks, emos, and other very alternative
lifestyles. This made up to 9.42% of the total
of the places, and ranged from very
clandestine establishments in the most
dangerous neighborhoods, to the snobbish
style of Coyoacan. In this segment you’ll find
students mainly from Filosphy, Sciences and
Political Sciences schools.
Most of the places recommended for this
segment are located in the center of the city,
with very variable prices. Clubs like; “El
Clandestino” in Rio de los Remedios Street,
“El Ghetto” in Cinco de Mayo Steet or “El
Abundio” in the ever dangerous “La
Guerrero” neighborhood, had affordable
prices albeit little variety of drinks.
The Underground is a good place to express your middle-
income angst and alternative attitude
But if you not very willing to visit the real
underground pars of the city, there are
always places like “The Real Underground”
(see what I did there?), or just “El Under”, for
the kids who are not very sure about what
they are rebelling. This a bar where “darks”,
goths, punks and other counter-culture
urban tribes meet to drink vodka and hear
heavy rock and gothic music. The place is
located in Monterrey Steet No.80, close to
the old Cibeles roundabout. As the location
of the place may suggest you, these are not
exactly real outcasts of society, but young
students with money trying to be different. A
good place to check in if that’s your thing. If
not, try out “El Bizzarro” in Coyoacan’s
downtown in Cuauhtemoc Steet # 168, with
almost the same kind of patrons and the
addition of flavored beers.
If by alternative you are not thinking in black
clothes and dyed hair, the “Oasis Moto-
Club”, just next (once more) to Copilco
subway station, could be of your taste… if
that taste means Mexican country music and
Caribbean rhythms. Recommended for being
a great place to dance Salsa its proximity and
cheap beer prices make it a favorite between
students of all the schools.
Finally, albeit not very alternative in the
original sense of the world, you can try the
baffling experience to get drunk on board a
boat in a canal inside the city. In Xochimilco
you can rent a “trajinera” (a folkloric river
boat) for $200 pesos the hour, a music player
and enjoy the experience of getting wasted
in middle of an ancient canal. Make sure to
bring your own beer.
THAT’S DARN GOOD, CUZ
For the last segment, which is composed by
the most cheap places in the city, I’ll have to
admit that I come empty handed, not
because there weren’t students who went
there (7.24% of the total), but because the
places where to diverse that I’ve problems to
name just one. I can only say that most of
them were located in the outer rim and the
center of the city (not the nice part of the
center neighborhood), where you can have a
nice time by no more than $100 pesos.
The only place that I can recommend you is
the “Las duelistas”. This place is not a cantina
nor a bar, but a “pulqueria” a place where
pulque, an alcoholic drink made of
fermented sap of maguey. The pulque is the
most traditional drink that you’ll find in
Mexico city, and “Las duelistas” is one of the
most popular places to drink it by young
people, mainly because it allows the
entrance to women, a policy that most
pulquerias in Xochimilco do not follow. As
the flavor of the pulque is an acquired taste
it is usually mixed with other ingredients like
fruits or nuts, this allows for a greater offer
of drinks which are called “curados”. So, if
you are visiting Las duelistas and you are not
feeling very brave to drink pure pulque, try
the curado of pinion, oatmeal or tangerine.
Las duelistas is one of the few pulquerias mainly populated by
young people
Well, as you can see, there social places to
meet and befriend UNAM students (along
with students of other universities) is
virtually limitless. Of course, there are other
places to drink and pass a good time besides
of the ones listed here, but I don’t want to
promote places like “Las islas” (UNAM’s
central plaza) and other green areas of
Ciudad Universitaria, where 5.79% of the
students use to go drinking, so let’s stop
here.
As conclusion, I would want to say that I’ve
found kind of sad the kind of social activities
that we, UNAM’s students, are involved. I’ve
found so many places and so many activities
and I find kind of depressing to think what
we are all missing by going to the same
places and meeting the same people over
and over again. I’m not saying that we should
change of friends every two months, I’m
saying that there is a lot of the interesting
and fun people out there, people who could
be great friends or even partners and we are
missing the opportunity to meet them and
talk with them.
So, my resolution for this next semester, it’s
to visit all the places that were
recommended in the surveys, make a few
dozens of new friends and… and… and…
Well, I’ll think more about it once I find
about 3 psychologists, 5 pedagogues and 7
accountants.
PHOTOGRAPS:
Head: ciberpostales.com – www.ciberpostales.com
Casa del Vagabundo - http://casadelvagabundo.blogspot.com
CCE - www.ccemx.org/
Cenote Azul - www.elcenoteazul.com
Instituto Mexicano de la Radio - http://www.imer.gob.mx/
Pata Negra - www.patanegra.com.mx