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PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to South America ............... 2Map .................................. 415 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like ........................ 16Month by Month ............. 19Itineraries ........................ 23Countries at a Glance .... 32
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
Setting forBig Adventures From the snowcapped peaks of the Andes to the undulating waterways of the Ama-zon, South America spreads a dazzling array of natural wonders. This is a continentof lush rainforests, towering volcanoes, misty cloud forests, bone-dry deserts, red-rock canyons, ice-blue glaciers and sun-kissed beaches. As landscapes go, there aren’t many other places on earth that o er so much range – or so many opportuni-ties for adventure.
You can hike past ancient temples rst laid down by the Incas, contemplate the awe-inspiring power of Iguazú Falls or spend the day watching wildlife from
a dugout canoe on one of the Amazon’s countless igarapés (narrow waterways). You can barrel down Andean roads by mountain bike, go whitewater rafting on class V rivers and surf amazing breaks o both coasts. And once you think you’ve experienced it all, head to the dramatic landscapes in Tierra del Fuego, go eye-to-eye with extraordinary creatures in the Galápagos, and scramble up tableland mountains in the Gran Sabana for a pano-rama that seems straight out of the Meso-zoic era.
Cultural Treasures South America’s great diversity doesn’t end with geography. Across the continent
Andean peaks, Amazonian rainforest, Patagonian glaciers, Incan ruins, colonial towns, white-sand beaches and vertiginous nightlife: the wonders of South America set the stage for incredible adventures.
Welcome to South America
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
Festivals & Events Whether you prefer the colorful pageantry of Se-mana Santa (Holy Week) or the unbridled revelry of Car-naval, the continent has you covered. From the tradition-al to the downright surreal, here are a few events worth planning a trip around. Carnaval Many towns in Brazil throw a wild pre-Lenten bash, but Salvador and Rio are the best places to celebrate a few sleepless nights (p 270 )
Fiesta de la Mamá Negra This Ecuadorian fest features proces-sions, witches, whole roast pigs, a bit of cross-dressing and plenty of alcohol (p 658 )
Festival y Mundial de Baile Learn some new moves at this massive tango festival in Buenos Aires in August (p 51 )
Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria In Puno, Peru gives a thunderous street party for its patron saint (p 836 )
Fiesta del Santo Patrono de Moxos One of Bolivia’s biggest bashes includes reworks, danc-ing, feasts and wild costumes (p 20 )
Hiking & Trekking Against a backdrop of An-dean peaks, misty cloud forests and Amazonian jungle, trekking here is world class. Whether you’re out for a short day’s hike or a multiday journey, you’ll find limitless options. Quilotoa Avid walkers shouldn’t miss this scenic multiday Ecua-dorian journey, overnighting at simple village guesthouses along the way (p 659 )
Choro Traversing Bolivia’s Parque Nacional Cotopata, the four-day Choro Trek begins amid alpine scenery before descend-ing into the lush, subtropical Yungas region (p 203 )
Cordillera Huayhuash circuit Rivaling the big Himalayan treks, this 10-day Peruvian odyssey takes you among alpine lakes with condors circling the nearby 6000m peaks (p 886 )
El Chaltén In Argentine Patagonia, El Chaltén o ers unparalleled trekking amid glaciers, alpine lakes and craggy mountains (p 146 )
Ciudad Perdida Like a scene torn from an Indiana Jones lm, the trek to Colombia’s ‘Lost City’ is a challenging six-day (return)
Wildlife South America is home to more plant and animal species than any other place on earth and there are countless settings to watch wildlife. The Amazon Manaus is still one of the top gateways for a journey into the mother of all rainforests (p 381 )
The Pantanal You’re likely to see even more animal species here than in the Amazon at these wildlife-rich wetlands; Cuiabá is one of the top spots to plan a trip (p 329 )
The Galápagos Needing little introduction, these volcanic islands are home to creatures so tame, you’ll practically be tripping over all the sea lions you come across (p 704 )
Cloud forests With over 400 recorded bird species in the area, Mindo’s cloud forests are a mecca for birders (p 651 )
Parque Nacional San Rafael Paraguay’s verdant strand of Atlantic Forest has refreshing lakes, forest paths and superb bird-watching (p 780 )
» Hiking in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Argentina (p151)
Thirteen countries strong, South America is home to astounding natural and cultural wonders. The challenge is deciding where to begin. Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador and Colombia offer affordable
Argentina Big Cities Scenery Outdoors
Urban Allure Buenos Aires is a scintillating me-tropolis of steamy tango halls, old-world cafes and hip
countries at a glance
32
I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -894 -4
9 781741 798944
99935
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory ......................... 1048Transportation ............... 1058Health .............................. 1066Language ........................ 1071Index ................................ 1087Map Legend .................... 1109
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
evention is the key to stay-g healthy while in South merica. Travelers who re-ive the recommended vac-
nes and follow common-nse precautions usually go
way with nothing more than ttle diarrhea.
Recommended Vaccinations Since most vaccines don’t produce immunity until at least two weeks after they’re given, you should visit a physician four to eight weeks before departure. Ask your
Azithromyc » Antihista
fever and a » Anti-in a
(eg ibuprof » Bandage
rolls » Diarrhea
loperamide » Insect re
DEET for th » Iodine ta
puri cation » Oral rehy » Permeth
insect spratents and b
» Pocket k » Scissors
tweezers » Steroid c
(for poisonallergic ras
» Sunblock » Thermom
Internet
Health
PAGE
1047
The Big Loop » Andean High »
Deep South »Sailing the Mighty Amazon »
Atlantic Coast »
PETER A
DA
MS
/ GETTY IM
AG
ES ©
Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, Brazil (p337)
Itineraries
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Best-selling guide to South America. Source: Nielsen Bookscan, Australia, UK and USA, April 2012 to March 2013
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Brazilp262
Colombiap528
Venezuelap968
Guyanap747
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YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
ON THE ROAD
PAGE
36
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Regis St Louis, Sandra Bao, Greg Benchwick, Celeste Brash,
Gregor Clark, Alex Egerton, Bridget Gleeson, Beth Kohn, Carolyn McCarthy, Kevin Raub, Paul Smith, Lucas Vidgen
Look out for these icons:
Our author’s top recommendation A green or
sustainable option No payment required
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favorite places are listed first
ARGENTINA . . . . . . . . 38BUENOS AIRES . . . . . . . . . . . 41NORTHEAST ARGENTINA . . .64Parque Nacional Iguazú . . . 83NORTHWEST ARGENTINA . . 84Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Quebrada de Humahuaca 105ATLANTIC COAST . . . . . . . .108CENTRAL ARGENTINA . . . 114Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114THE LAKE DISTRICT . . . . . 124Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130PATAGONIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Parque Nacional Los Glaciares . . . . . . . . . . . .151TIERRA DEL FUEGO . . . . . . 152UNDERSTAND ARGENTINA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 166
BOLIVIA . . . . . . . . . . . 174LA PAZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Tiwanaku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192LAKE TITICACA . . . . . . . . . . 192THE CORDILLERAS & THE YUNGAS . . . . . . . . . . 199SOUTHERN ALTIPLANO . . . 204Oruro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204Uyuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209Tarija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . 218Sucre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Potosí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228THE SOUTHEAST . . . . . . . .232THE AMAZON BASIN . . . . 237
Parque Nacional Madidi . . . 241Rurrenabaque . . . . . . . . . . 237UNDERSTAND BOLIVIA . . 244SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 252
BRAZIL . . . . . . . . . . . 262RIO DE JANEIRO . . . . . . . . 266THE SOUTHEAST . . . . . . . .287Paraty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291São Paulo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Ouro Preto . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303Tiradentes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306THE SOUTH . . . . . . . . . . . . .307Ilha de Santa Catarina . . . . 311Foz do Iguaçu . . . . . . . . . . 318THE CENTRAL WEST . . . . . 321Brasília . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321The Pantanal . . . . . . . . . . . 326Bonito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332THE NORTHEAST . . . . . . . 334Salvador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334THE NORTH . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Amazon Jungle . . . . . . . . . 385UNDERSTAND BRAZIL . . . 389SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 398
CHILE . . . . . . . . . . . . 408SANTIAGO . . . . . . . . . . . . . .410Valparaíso . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429NORTHERN CHILE . . . . . . 439San Pedro de Atacama . . . .451Iquique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456MIDDLE CHILE . . . . . . . . . 465THE LAKES DISTRICT . . . .472CHILOÉ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .491Parque Nacional Chiloé . . . 495NORTHERN PATAGONIA . . . 496Futaleufú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
SOUTHERN PATAGONIA . . . 502Parque Nacional Torres del Paine . . . . . . . . 508TIERRA DEL FUEGO . . . . . . 512RAPA NUI (EASTER ISLAND) . . . . . . . 513UNDERSTAND CHILE . . . . . 515SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . .522
COLOMBIA . . . . . . . 528BOGOTÁ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .532NORTH OF BOGOTÁ . . . . . .543THE CARIBBEAN COAST . . 554Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona . . . . . . . . 560Ciudad Perdida . . . . . . . . . 562Cartagena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565SAN ANDRÉS & PROVIDENCIA . . . . . . . . . . .576NORTHWEST COLOMBIA . . 577Medellín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577SOUTHWEST COLOMBIA . . 591Cali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592San Agustín . . . . . . . . . . . . 601AMAZON BASIN . . . . . . . . 605UNDERSTAND COLOMBIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .611SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 617
ECUADOR . . . . . . . . 624QUITO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 628Mitad del Mundo . . . . . . . 650NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 651Mindo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 651Otavalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 652CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . 657Parque Nacional Cotopaxi .657The Quilotoa Loop . . . . . . 659Baños . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 661
On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book .
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS . . .670Cuenca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671THE ORIENTE . . . . . . . . . . . 680PACIFIC COAST & LOWLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 688Montañita . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696Guayaquil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .697GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS . . . . 704UNDERSTAND ECUADOR . . 712SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 719
FRENCH GUIANA . . . 728Cayenne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731Rémire-Montjoly . . . . . . . . .735Cacao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .736Trésor & Kaw Nature Reserves . . . . . . . . .736Saül . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 737Kourou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 737Îles du Salut . . . . . . . . . . . .739St Laurent du Maroni . . . .740Mana & Awala-Yalimopo . . . 742UNDERSTAND FRENCH GUIANA . . . . . . . . . 743SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 744
GUYANA . . . . . . . . . . . 747Georgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . .750Kaieteur National Park . . . . 756Iwokrama Rainforest . . . . . 757North Rupununi . . . . . . . . .758South Rupununi . . . . . . . . .759UNDERSTAND GUYANA . . . 760SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 762
PARAGUAY . . . . . . . . . 765ASUNCIÓN . . . . . . . . . . . . . 768SOUTHERN PARAGUAY . . . 775Encarnación . . . . . . . . . . . .776
Parque Nacional San Rafael . . . . . . . . . . . . . .780EASTERN PARAGUAY . . . . 781NORTHERN PARAGUAY . . . 784Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . . .784Bahía Negra & the Paraguayan Pantanal . . . . .785THE CHACO . . . . . . . . . . . . . 786The Mennonite Colonies . . . 787UNDERSTAND PARAGUAY 789SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 793
PERU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 798LIMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 802SOUTH COAST . . . . . . . . . . 817Nazca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .822AREQUIPA & CANYON COUNTRY . . . . . . 826LAKE TITICACA . . . . . . . . . . 835CUZCO & THE SACRED VALLEY . . . . . . . . . 840Machu Picchu . . . . . . . . . . .857CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . 862NORTH COAST . . . . . . . . . . 868HUARAZ & THE CORDILLERAS . . . . . . . . . . 879NORTHERN HIGHLANDS . . 886Kuélap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 891AMAZON BASIN . . . . . . . . . 892UNDERSTAND PERU . . . . . 903SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 909
SURINAME . . . . . . . . 917Paramaribo . . . . . . . . . . . . 920Brownsberg Nature Reserve & Brokopondo . . .926Upper Suriname River . . . .926Central Suriname Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . .927
Galibi & Coppename Nature Reserves . . . . . . . . .928UNDERSTAND SURINAME 928SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 930
URUGUAY . . . . . . . . . .933MONTEVIDEO . . . . . . . . . . . 936WESTERN URUGUAY . . . . . 943Colonia del Sacramento . . . 943Tacuarembó & Around . . . .950EASTERN URUGUAY . . . . . 951Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . . 954Punta del Diablo . . . . . . . . .957UNDERSTAND URUGUAY 959SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . . 963
VENEZUELA . . . . . . . .968CARACAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 972Archipiélago Los Roques 989THE NORTHWEST . . . . . . . 992THE ANDES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 999Mérida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 999THE NORTHEAST . . . . . . . 1007Cueva del Guácharo . . . . 1011ISLA DE MARGARITA . . . . 1013GUAYANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1016Ciudad Bolívar . . . . . . . . . 1017Salto Ángel (Angel Falls) 1021Canaima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1022GRAN SABANA . . . . . . . . . 1024Roraima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1024Santa Elena de Uairén . . .1025AMAZONAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 1028Puerto Ayacucho . . . . . . .1028UNDERSTAND VENEZUELA . . . . . . . . . . . . .1031SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 1038
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Paul SmithParaguay From an early age, and with a vague and naive ambition to be the next David Attenborough, Paul dreamed of exploring the remotest areas of the globe in search of wildlife, eventually settling in Paraguay in 2004. While researching this edition Paul came face to face with a jaguar in the Pantanal, witnessed a coup d’etat, was re-impressed by the power of water at the Itaipú Dam and learned about Jesuit cosmology.
Lucas VidgenArgentina, Uruguay Lucas was born in Australia but has been wandering around Latin America ever since he saved up the money for his first airfare. He’s lived in Quito and Buenos Aires and came very close to renting an apartment in Monte-video. Lucas has contributed to a range of Lonely Planet titles, including various editions of the Argentina and South America guides. He currently lives in Quetzal-tenango, Guatemala, where he publishes – and occasionally works on – XelaWho
magazine (www.xelawho.com).
Gregor ClarkBrazil A South American travel addict since 1990, Gregor Clark has traveled everywhere from Caracas to Tierra del Fuego, from the Galápagos to Machu Picchu to Easter Island. But Brazil remains his favorite country of all, thanks to the warmth, exuberance and graciousness of its people. Peak experiences on this trip included discovering Caraíva and Alter do Chão, returning to Jericoacoara and Lençóis, and finally reaching the Lençóis Maranhenses (a longstanding
dream). Gregor contributes regularly to Lonely Planet’s Brazil and Argentina guides.
Alex EgertonColombia A journalist by trade, Alex has been coming to Colombia for 15 years since falling in love with the country while on a mad six-week dash from Vene- zuela to Mexico. During that time he has learned to love aguardiente, climbed several of the country’s majestic peaks and became a big fan of tejo, but he still can’t dance salsa. When not on the road, Alex splits his time between Medellín and rural Nicaragua.
Bridget GleesonChile Based in Buenos Aires, Bridget was just starting out as a travel writer when her sister fell in love with a Chilean. She’s been crossing the Andes ever since to visit the Santiago branch of the family, learning how to mix the perfect pisco sour and prepare a proper ceviche along the way. She writes about Latin American food, wine and travel for Lonely Planet, Budget Travel, Afar, Jetsetter and BBC Travel. Follow her adventures at www.bridgetgleeson.com.
Beth KohnVenezuela An aficionada of Latin American rhythms and culture since her Miami childhood, Beth has claimed the window seat on buses throughout the Spanish-speaking world. During her third Lonely Planet sojourn to Venezuela, she was shooed out of the construction site of the new Simón Bolívar Mausoleum, just missed seeing a presidential candi-date, and clocked untold hours crisscrossing the country in rattletrap por pues-
tos. A resident of San Francisco, she’s coauthored almost 20 books for Lonely Planet, including the California, Mexico and Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks guides. You can see more of her writing and photography at www.bethkohn.com.
Carolyn McCarthyPeru Carolyn had her first major encounter with cumbia and palm reading on an early trip to Peru. For this trip, she sampled hundreds of Peruvian delica-cies, climbed Huayna Picchu and checked into one medical clinic. Some of her other Lonely Planet titles include Argentina, Panama, Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks, USA and Trekking in the Patagonian Andes. Among other publica-tions, she has written for National Geographic, Outside and Boston Globe. You can
follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.
Kevin RaubBrazil Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. Ever since, he’s suffered from Bland Brazilian Beer Disease. Then he met the South. From Blumenau’s German-influenced microbreweries to Porto Alegre’s Dirty Old Man, Brazil’s best boutique beer bar, he found cerveja salvation in the Brazilian south. This is Kevin’s
22nd Lonely Planet guide. Find him at www.kevinraub.net.
Read more about Kevin at: lonelyplanet .com/memebers/kraub
Read more about Bridget at: lonelyplanet .com/memebers/bridgetgleeson
Regis St LouisCoordinating Author, Ecuador After his first trip to the Andes in 1999, Regis re-turned home, sold all his belongings and set off on a classic journey across Latin America. Since then, he’s returned numerous times, logging thousands of miles on dodgy jungle and mountain roads. On his most recent trip he swam with sea lions in the Galápagos, cycled the scenic Baños-to-Puyo highway and thrashed a rental car on the back roads of Cotopaxi. Regis is the coordinating author
of Lonely Planet’s Ecuador and Brazil guides, and he has contributed to more than three dozen Lonely Planet titles. He lives in New York City.
Sandra BaoArgentina Sandra is a Chinese-American born in Argentina who has traveled to around 60 countries – but now calls the beautiful Pacific Northwest home. She’s still proud to be a porteña, however, and regularly returns to Argentina to investigate what the wildly fluctuating peso is doing. As well as writing sections of the Argentina chapter, over the last decade Sandra has contributed to a couple dozen Lonely Planet titles.
Greg BenchwickBolivia Greg started his career in journalism as the managing editor of the world-famous Bolivian Times, covering everything from the war on drugs to human-rights abuses and the state of affairs in Bolivia’s numerous bars and discotecas. Since then he’s written dozens of guidebooks on countries throughout Latin America, interviewed Bolivian campesinos and políticos for the UN’s Inter-national Fund for Agricultural Development, and continued on a path toward
happiness and nonstop adventure.
Celeste BrashFrench Guiana, Guyana, Suriname This was Celeste’s second trip to the Guianas and she’s determined there will be a third. The down-to-earth adventure and rugged warmth remind her of her ex-home on an atoll in French Polynesia where she lived for 15 years. She currently resides in Portland, Oregon, and writes lots of other Lonely Planet guides (around 40 so far) as well as articles for publica-tions ranging from Islands Magazine to the LA Times. Find her on the web at
www.celestebrash.com.
Read more about Sandra at: lonelyplanet .com/memebers/sandrabao
Read more about Greg at: lonelyplanet .com/memebers/gbenchwick
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although.the.authors.and.Lonely.Planet.have.taken.all.reason-able.care. in.preparing. this.book,.we.make.no.warranty.about.the.accuracy.or.completeness.of.its.content.and,.to.the.maxi-mum.extent.permitted,.disclaim.all.liability.arising.from.its.use .
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN.36.005.607.98312th.edition.–.Aug.2013ISBN.978.1.74179.894.4©.Lonely.Planet.2013....Photographs.©.as.indicated.201310..9..8..7..6..5..4..3..2..1Printed.in.SingaporeAll.rights.reserved ..No.part.of.this.publication.may.be.copied,.stored.in.a.retrieval.system,.or.transmitted.in.any.form.by.any.means,.electronic,.mechanical,.recording.or.otherwise,.except.brief.extracts.for.the.purpose.of.review,.and.no.part.of.this.publication.may.be.sold.or.hired,.without.the.written.permission.of.the.publisher ..Lonely.Planet.and.the.Lonely.Planet.logo.are.trademarks.of.Lonely.Planet.and.are.registered.in.the.US.Patent.and.Trademark.Office.and.in.other.countries ..Lonely.Planet.does.not.allow.its.name.or.logo.to.be.appropriated.by.commercial.establishments,.such.as.retailers,.restaurants.or.hotels ..Please.let.us.know.of.any.misuses:.lonelyplanet .com/ip .
OVERPAGE
MORE WRITERS
The Big Loop »Andean High »
Deep South »Sailing the Mighty Amazon »
Atlantic Coast »
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Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, Brazil (p337)
Itineraries
The Big LoopFour to Six MonthsThis classic South American journey takes in some of the continent’s most famous sites, including Andean peaks, Amazonian rainforest, Machu Picchu, Iguazú Falls and the Galápagos Islands. The journey begins and ends in Buenos Aires.
» Start off in Buenos Aires. Spend several days exploring the mesmerizing Argentine capital.
» Go east to Bariloche for spectacular scenery then north to historic Córdoba and gorgeous Salta before crossing over to Chile’s desert oasis of San Pedro de Atacama.
» Head into Bolivia to experience the surreal Salar de Uyuni.
» Continue to La Paz and on to Peru via Lake Titicaca.
» Linger in ancient Cuzco and at mystical Machu Picchu before going to Lima and on to Ecuador.
» From Guayaquil, fly to the otherworldly Galápagos Islands.
» Back on the mainland, visit colonial Cuenca and historic Quito.
» Pass into Colombia to see the spectacu-lar Zona Cafetera and bustling Medellín, then go to Cartagena to chill out on the Caribbean.
» See beautiful Parque Nacional Tayrona and then hang out for a couple of days in Mérida, Venezuela, before visiting Salto Ángel.
» Cross into Brazil and onto Manaus for a jungle trip before flying down to Rio de Janeiro for beaches and nightlife.
» Visit thundering Iguazú Falls before returning to Buenos Aires.
24
San Pedrode Atacama
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Medellín
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Clockwise from top left1 Children in Cuzco, Peru (p841) 2 Plaza de Armas, Cuzco (p841) 3 Volcán Licancábur, Chile (p451) 4 Quito, Ecuador (p628)
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Andean HighTwo MonthsFor rugged adventure, unparalleled alpine vistas, rich indigenous cultures and colorful market towns journey down the Andes from Colombia to Argentina. Along the way, you’ll pass through colonial towns, cloud forests and surreal desert landscapes.
» Fly into Bogotá, taking in the old historic center and lively nightlife.
» Continue south to San Agustín to explore pre-Columbian ruins, and on to Parque Nacional Puracé, for Andean treks.
» Then go to Pasto and on to the beautifully set Laguna de la Cocha.
» Cross into Ecuador and visit Otavalo, for markets and day trips to alpine lakes.
» Head west to Mindo for misty cloud-forest adventures.
» Continue south through Quito and on to Volcán Cotopaxi, for hikes and majestic scenery.
» Visit colonial Cuenca, relax in laid-back Vilcabamba, then continue into Peru and down to Huaraz for trekking in the Cordillera Blanca.
» Spend a few days in Cuzco, then hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.
» Head across shimmering Lake Titicaca into Bolivia for more hiking in the Cordillera Real.
» Continue south to the Salar de Uyuni, before crossing to Argentina by way of the spectacular Quebrada de Humahuaca.
» Continue into Argentina toward enchanting Mendoza, near massive Cerro Aconcagua, the western hemisphere’s highest peak.
26
Cuzco
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Clockwise from top left1 Street food in Bogotá, Colombia (p532) 2 Highlands around Mindo, Ecuador (p651) 3 Plaza de Bolívar, Bogotá (p532) 4 Parque Nacional Huascarán, Peru (p884)
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Deep SouthOne to Two MonthsMysterious, windswept, glacier-riddled Patagonia is one of South America’s most magical destinations. Patagonia – and the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego – is best visited November through March, and you can see more for cheaper if you camp.
» Start in the outdoors-loving town of Bariloche. Take in the stunning Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi and Parque Nacional Lanín.
» Head south to Esquel, for a taste of the Old Patagonian Express.
» Travel west into Chile to the Andean hamlet of Futaleufú for some of the continent’s best rafting.
» Take the scenic Carretera Austral to Coyhaique and on to Lago General Carrera, and visit the caves of Capilla de Mármol.
» Head to the windswept Chile Chico, then cross into Argentina to Los Antiguos.
» Bounce down to El Chaltén in spectacular Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, and on to
the wondrous Glaciar Perito Moreno near El Calafate.
» Cross back into Chile to hike beneath the granite spires of Torres del Paine.
» Head to Punta Arenas, then south into Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego and bottom out at Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world.
» Work back north along the Atlantic, stopping for penguins in Reserva Provincial Punta Tombo and whales in Reserva Faunística Península Valdés.
» End the trip in Buenos Aires.
28
Coyhaique
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Clockwise from top left1 Parque Nacional Lanín, Argentina (p127) 2 Fitz Roy range, Argentina (p146) 3 Glaciar Perito Moreno, Argentina (p151) 4 Ushuaia, Argentina (p153)
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The Big Loop »Andean High »
Deep South »Sailing the Mighty Amazon »
Atlantic Coast »
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Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, Brazil (p337)
Itineraries
Sailing the Mighty AmazonOne to Two MonthsThe mightiest river on the planet makes a fabled setting for adventure. This tough but rewarding journey travels its length, taking in wildlife-watching, historic cities and beautiful river beaches.
» Start in Pucallpa, Peru (a flight or long bus ride from Lima).
» Before hitting the river, visit nearby Lago Yarinacocha, a lovely oxbow lake ringed by tribal villages.
» From Pucallpa, begin the classic slow riverboat journey north along the Río Ucayali to Lagunas, where you can continue on to the wildlife-rich Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria. Afterwards, spend a day exploring the bustling city of Iquitos.
» From here, get a boat to the tri-border region of Peru, Colombia and Brazil, and take a break in Colombia’s Leticia.
» From Leticia, it’s three more arduous days to the bustling city of Manaus, which is famed for its 19th-century opera house and buzzing markets. This is also a great base for jungle excursions.
» Chug east to Santarém, where you can visit the white-sand beaches of Alter do Chão.
» Another 3½ days further, and you’ll reach culturally rich Belém, a good spot for sampling traditional Amazonian cuisine.
» Cross over to Ilha de Marajó, a massive river island dotted with friendly towns, wandering buffaloes and pleasant beaches.
30
LeticiaSantarém
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Above1 Toucan 2 Canoeing on Rio Solimões, Brazil (p381)
Atlantic CoastOne to Two MonthsColonial towns, Afro-Brazilian culture, gorgeous beaches and buzzing nightlife set the stage for an epic 7400km ramble up the Atlantic coast. Surfing, snorkeling, forest treks and urban exploring are all essential experiences along the way.
» Start off in Argentina, spending a few days taking in the charms of Buenos Aires before ferrying over to historic Montevideo.
» Stop in Uruguay’s pretty beach towns – Punta del Este, La Paloma and Punta del Diablo – en route to Brazil.
» Make your way to Florianópolis, gateway to secluded beaches and stunning scenery, then head up the coast to the scenic colonial town of Paraty, and get your island fix on rainforest-covered Ilha Grande.
» Northeast of there await the pretty beaches, lush scenery and samba-fueled nightlife of Rio de Janeiro.
» Fly to Porto Seguro and continue to Trancoso and Arraial d’Ajuda – both enticing, laid-back towns near cliff-backed beaches.
» Spend a few days in Salvador, Brazil’s mesmerizing Afro-Brazilian gem.
» Further up the coast, visit pretty Olinda, then catch a flight from Recife to the spectacular archipelago of Fernando de Noronha.
» Back on the mainland, travel north, stopping at the backpackers’ paradise of Jericoacoara and the surreal dunes of Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses.
» The final stops are reggae-charged São Luís and untouristy colonial Alcântara.
31
Punta del Diablo
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Punta del Este
São Luís
Florianópolis
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La Paloma
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Above1 Jericoacoara, Brazil (p365) 2 Festival in Salvador, Brazil (p334)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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