Trail & Timberline, Issue 1004

Trail & Timberline 1

Trail &Timberline

The Colorado Mountain Club • Fall 2009 • Issue 1004 • www.cmc.org

Finding the golden light 16 • the canyons oF colorado 28 • Beyond rocky 34

Believingsaving isestablishing rocky mountain national Park


If only money flowed like water...Maintaining our programs requires a steady stream of donations.

Start donating year-round through our electronic funds transfer (EFT) program today.

www.cmc.org/support


(she’ll actually be able to give out money now rather than ask for it!). i would like to personally thank Clare for her advocacy, passion, and contagious smile that she shared with the club these past eight years.

Conservation has always been front and center in the club’s rich history; Clare has left after some wonderful successes that we are all able to enjoy. Have fun out there.

Letter from the CEO

Katie BlackettChief Executive Officer

The Magic

i used to dislike hiking. now, before you wonder how the CeO of the Colorado mountain Club can get away with not always being a lover of mountain quests, let me explain. i was

a professional runner for many years: i would train two, three, sometimes even seven hours a day! The last thing you want to do after working out so much is go on a hike. So, for years i gave up hiking much to the dismay of my dog. now that i’m retired from running professionally, it seems like all i want to do is hike! my husband and i recently took a week off to play in Telluride and Crested butte. We hiked for five days straight and

loved every minute of it. We talked, we were silent; we noticed nature, and we were reminded once again (at a slower pace) of how magical our state really is. Speaking of magical, the CmC has had a pretty spectacular year when it concerns conservation. rocky mountain national Park was designated as wilderness along with Dominguez Canyon; access rights were granted to a few of our favorite fourteeners. much of this is due to the efforts of our former conservation director Clare bastable. in July, Clare left the CmC to take a position with a conservation foundation

"We hiked for five days straight and loved every minute of it. We talked, we were silent; we noticed nature, and we were re-minded once again (at a slower pace) of how magi-cal our state really is."


Fall 2009Trail & Timberline • issue 1004 • www.cmc.org

20 The Big Bang

The Colorado mountain Club knows its mountains; always has. The founders of 1912 knew and loved a special swath of rocky mountain landscape and were determined to protect it, for eternity. What they did was help create rocky mountain national Park.

By Gerald Caplan

EXTRA: How'd those mountains get those interesting names? revisit a 1914 pack trip through the park with those who knew best, the arapaho who grew up there.

28 Canyon CounTry gem

always overshadowed, often dismissed, Dinosaur national monument finally gets some love. but not for its bones.

By Ted Alvarez

EXTRA: Can't get to Dinosaur? These canyon-laden destinations are almost as overshadowed, but just as sparkling.

34 Borrowing From our Children

Saving is believing. The CmC started with a bang, but didn't stop there. learn about the club's other incredible achievements in conservation.

By Chris Case

20 28


01 Letter from the CEO

05 Inbox

06 On the Outside 10 Mission Accomplishments

learn the latest from the Conservation and education Departments, as well as the mountain-eering museum.

14 The ClinicHeading out for a long day on the trail? Don't forget your lunch box. By Chris Case

16 PathfinderColorado only turns golden once a year. We asked well-traveled photographer Todd Caudle where we might capture the golden light.By Todd Caudle

40 From the Archivesa lost relic from Cheesman Park, commissioned and constructed by the CmC, turns up in the elevator room. You never know where you might find treasure.By Chris Case

41 End of the Trailremembering Cleve armstrong

42 CMC Adventure TravelWant to get away? Join classic CmC trips to nepal, Vietnam, the Grand Canyon, and more.

Departments

on The Covera group gathers on Tyndall Glacier during the club's Second annual Outing in 1913. many hikes and climbs were taken in the estes Park area to explore the possibilities for a national park. George Harvey, Jr.

34


Editor’s Note

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we could create na-tional parks and designate wilderness with a single phone call? Or establish access to a peak

with a simple email? A new biography of the 26th President of the United States, Theodore Roosevelt, focuses on his accomplishments in conservation and reconfirms the idea that Teddy acted as fast: hours after leaving Yosemite on a John Muir-led ex-cursion, he had contacted his Interior secretary and ordered protection for a larger swath of California's great redwood groves. This isn’t 1909. In that year, the last of his presidency, Roosevelt had already protected some 230 million acres of America's wildlands—five times more than all previous presidents combined. In 2009, the country hasn’t gotten any less beautiful, or unique, nor has it lost its need for protection. No, there is no Teddy to pick up the telephone and make a park, but there are thousands of members of clubs like ours who can do the equivalent. Since the founders of the Colorado Mountain Club put down on paper their aim to protect our forests and flora, mountains and alpine attractions, club members have been making the call, so to speak. Colorado is filled with exquisite examples of natural wonder and wildness, and we have set aside our share. Rocky Mountain National Park. Check. Dinosaur Na-tional Monument. Check. Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument. Check. Hundreds of thousands of acres of Wil-derness. Check. Access to majestic vistas, priceless experi-ences and beloved backcountry. Check. There’s no denying that conservation has become a po-litical issue. It is now a matter of intricate balance, steeped in the complexities of human kind, engulfed by issues and agendas. But it needn’t be. “In wildness is the preservation of the world,” as Thoreau wrote. As members of this club, we have joined an organiza-tion that is as devoted to helping us get into the mountains as it is to helping us keep those mountains pristine. Often, that means legally protecting them and not just using them. Yes, there have been countless defeats and compromises throughout the short history of the conservation move-ment. Economy over ecology. Business before wilderness. But if wildness be our sustenance, let us eat before it spoils. “We will never have the whole loaf…,” as Wallace Stegner once wrote. “But the half loaf is still possible, and we had better take it.”

Chris [email protected]

Trail &Timberline

ediTor, direCTor oF PhoTo & design

Chris Case

assisTanT ediTor

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The Colorado mounTain CluB710 10th Street, Suite 200Golden, Colorado 80401

The CMC is a 501 (c)(3) charitable organization.

The Colorado Mountain Club is organized to▶ unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the students, explorers, and lovers of the mountains of Colorado;

▶ collect and disseminate information regarding the Rocky Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, and recreation;

▶ stimulate public interest in our mountain areas;

▶ encourage the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery; and

▶ render readily accessible the alpine attractions of this region.

Trail & Timberline (iSSn 0041-0756) is published quarterly by the Colorado mountain Club located at 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, Colorado, and additional offices. Subscriptions are $20 per year; single copies are $5. POSTmaSTer: Please send address changes to Trail & Timberline, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. advertisements in Trail & Timberline do not constitute an endorsement by the Colorado mountain Club.

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Trail & Timberline makes it to the tippity top! American Mountaineering Museum Director Jake Norton shows off issue #1001 on the 29,035-foot summit of Mt. Everest on May 19, 2009, at 8 a.m. It was Jake's third successful ascent and the first for Trail & Timberline. Off the left side of the photo is the West Ridge. Cho Oyu’s summit is just behind Jake's head, and Shishapangma is the pyramid-like peak visible in the distance. The snaking glacier on the right is the Rongbuk; where it disappears from view is the approximate site of north-side basecamp.

YOUR MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARYNEEDS THIS BOOK“IN FALL 2008, the Colorado Mountain Club published a

guidebook that was riddled with typos and 70 years out of date, at a time when online competition has put the future of even the most current printed guidebooks in question. And it charged $185 per copy.

“‘It sounds crazy,’ Alan Stark, the club’s publisher, said recently as he cracked open a new, hardbound copy of the guide. ‘Obviously, this is not a typical guidebook. It’s a collector’s piece. People will buy it not to use it, but to have it.’

“The book is called The San Juan Mountaineers’ Climber’s Guide to Southwestern Colorado. It was first published in 1933—hand-typed and hard-bound in less than a half-dozen copies. It was the first modern guidebook in Colorado, and with its maps, photos, and route descrip-tions, it set the template for the hundreds that have followed.

“Climbers have passed around photocopied and stapled versions for generations, making it an almost mythic book. The club reproduced it exactly, down to the crossed-out letters and handwritten notes in the margins of the typed pages.

“In one sense, the Guide to Southwestern Colorado is a history book. In another, it is still a living guidebook.” —Dave Philipps, The Gazette, Colorado Springs

The San Juan Mountaineers’Climber’s Guide to Southwestern Colorado

L IMITED EDIT ION AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELYFROM THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB PRESS

ORDERS: 303-996-2743



On the OutsideSummer showers bring August flowers: a hidden, Columbine-coated basin in Rocky Mountain National Park. Chris Case


By designating either the CMC or the CMC Foundation in your will, you can reduce estate taxes and make a meaningful gift to the club you love.

Help build a legacy.Join the 21st Century Circle today.

Consult your attorney for bequest language, or call Doug Skiba at 303.996.2752 to join our planned giving circle.

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Join our select donors who give back to the club every month by using electronic funds transfer (EFT). It is easy and convenient, you can discontinue anytime, and you’ll provide support for critical programs. Sign up at www.cmc.org/support.

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Volunteer EffortsIf you want to share your time and expertise, give back to the club by volunteering on a variety of projects, from trail restoration to stuffing envelopes. Visit www.cmc.org/volunteer for a complete listing.

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By Jake Norton, Museum Director

THe man SiTTinG nexT TO me on the flight from los angeles to Denver was curious. His furtive glances suggested he was wondering what happened to the guy next to him, the one with molting skin on his nose and face, sunburned, chapped, with a generally haggard look. That would be me. eventually he got up the nerve to ask me where i was coming from, no doubt thinking i might have encountered the recent scourge of H1n1 virus, or something worse. i told him i was returning from a couple months in nepal; eventually he coaxed out of me that i had been on an everest expedition, shooting images for eddie bauer and their new First ascent line of climbing clothing. almost before those words were out of my mouth, he rapid-fired the standard two questions at me: Did you summit? Did you use oxygen? Yes, i sheepishly replied to both queries. These weren’t new questions for me. i’d been asked them after each of my six everest expeditions, and the three others i’ve taken to high Himalayan peaks The first one—Did you summit?—is predictable, under-standable, and needs little explanation. in a

society that tends to view success in simple terms, you answer yes or no. i did summit, or i did not. i succeeded, or i failed. The oxygen issue, however, always seems to need an explanation. Yes, i used oxygen, for such and such a reason. Or, i used it, but only on summit day. i did indeed bring—and use—oxygen on this expedition, and i have done so on all of my past major mountain expeditions above 8,000 meters. my reason for using oxygen has always been the same: when i’m on the high peaks, i’m invariably working, being paid not only to climb, but also to cre-ate images along the way. not using oxygen would be, simply put, irresponsible. like many, however, i’ve always won-dered how i might fare on everest without a bottle in my pack and a mask on my face, simply breathing the cold, crisp, rarified air and plugging away toward the top. but, whenever that thought arises, i am always reminded of my friend robert link who quipped after being asked why he used ox-ygen on everest: “Hey, i can drive my car without oil…it just doesn’t run as well or last as long.” indeed, bringing supplemental oxy-

The air uP ThereOxygen now and then at the American Mountaineering Museum

Mission Accomplishments

gen into the mountains to assist climbing has sparked debate and dissent since a. l. mumm, Tom longstaff, and Charles bruce carted canisters on their climb of the Himala-yan Trisul in 1907. mingled with arguments about ethics, performance enhancement, even style, there are few things which inspire so much debate in the climbing community. as our flight across the western states continued, my seatmate peppered me with more questions: Did the oxygen help? How much do the tanks weigh? Is it weird wearing a mask? How does the system work? Is it like Scuba? These are questions which many peo-ple—perhaps even you—have wondered about. Starting in november 2009, we will have the answers to these questions, and more, in the upcoming exhibit on oxygen use. ▲

Bottles, old and new. Panel discussions. Altitude information. Everything about oxygen at extreme altitude

except the headache. Visit www.mountaineeringmuseum.org for more infromation.

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For more information on the Colorado Roadless Rule and how to get involved please visit www.cmc.org/roadless.

almosT wildernessRoadless Areas are more than just roadless

By Bryan Martin, Director of Conservation

FOr nearlY 40 YearS, so-called road-less areas have received a great deal of at-tention by conservation groups, politicians, industry, and the public. but they are more than just areas without roads. These swaths of land, best defined by the 2001 road-less area Conservation rule (the roadless rule), are U.S. Forest Service lands provid-ing clean drinking water, large and relatively undisturbed landscapes important to bio-logical diversity, opportunities for dispersed outdoor recreation, and other opportunities

that diminish as open space and natural set-tings are developed elsewhere. They were also recognized as important reference areas for study and research. in many ways, they can be thought of as lands waiting in the bullpen for more protective Wilderness designation. but their history is fairly grey. The defi-nition and recognition of these areas began in 1971 when President nixon initiated the roadless area review and evaluation pro-cess. after surveying and inventorying mil-lions of acres of lands, the attempt eventually failed to protect any land (dismissed because of violations to the formal review and evalua-tion process). President Carter continued the

process in 1977 with a second evaluation. in 1998, upon the direction of President bill Clinton, the Forest Service initiated the roadless area Conservation rule. The rule set aside approximately 58.5 million acres of national Forest System lands recognized as “roadless” across the country (including 4.4 million acres in Colorado) and also provided new direction on road building efforts and planning processes on Forest Service lands. by January 2001, the roadless rule was fi-nalized and adopted by the Clinton admin-

istration prior to the expiration of his term in office. While the administration’s move ap-peared to be an eleventh hour “land grab”—and played as such in the media—the effort had really begun in the 1970s. Since 2001, the roadless rule has been a flash point of controversy for countless constituencies, from local to national and international. interested parties have taken to the courts, the legislature, and the press to affect the policy in a myriad of directions. The massive effort on both sides of the de-bate has largely resulted in stalemate—with only temporary protections for roadless lands in place today.

Often, hikers, campers and climbers do not even know they are in a roadless area—few signs mark their boundaries. moreover, the general public fails to recognize that so much of their drinking water is derived from sources within their boundaries. along Col-orado’s Front range, lands near the recog-nizable place names of mount evans, James Peak, Cache la Poudre, and Pikes Peak boast tens of thousands of acres of roadless lands. On the Western Slope and in the central mountains, swaths of roadless land can be found near east Vail, the Flattops, mount elbert, and the maroon bells. Today, the fate of these and hundreds of Colorado’s roadless areas are being decided through a state-specific planning process. Why? in may 2005, while conservation organizations and industry were battling over the 2001 roadless rule in the courts, the bush administration replaced it with the State Petitions rule. This rule required gov-ernors to petition the U.S. Department of agriculture to protect roadless areas in their states. One by one, state governors could ini-tiate a public process individually tailored to each state’s interests. The process is managed by the Forest Service and governed by the national environmental Policy act (nePa) with the intent to determine how roadless areas are to be managed in each state. Colo-rado (at that time under the administration of bill Owens) and idaho took advantage of the petition process. new Governor bill rit-ter kept the petition in place upon his arrival to office. at present, idaho is the only state to complete a state-specific roadless rule; a rule specific to Colorado is pending the completion of an environmental impact Statement and is currently out for public comment until October 1st. Colorado’s inventoried roadless areas represent some of the last great pieces of pub-lic land in our state. in its present condition, the rule falls short of adequately protecting our roadless areas. The CmC looks forward to working with Governor ritter, the De-partment of natural resources and the U.S. Forest Service to craft a rule with protections for roadless lands as strong as those provided in the 2001 roadless rule. ▲

▲ Huntsman Ridge is part of the Hayes Creek Roadless Area, northeast of McClure Pass. Part of a complex of six contiguous roadless areas, it has been dubbed the “forgotten wilderness” as the largest unprotected area in the state at 122,ooo acres. Aron Ralston


By Al Ossinger, Colorado Mountain Club Foundation

SinCe 1982, THe COlOraDO mOUnTain ClUb Foundation has awarded fellowships for research in the natural sciences, following our mission of 1912. This year’s recipient of the neal b. Kindig Fellowship is Carissa aoki, a Ph.D. stu-dent under Dr. bill romme, in the Department of Forest, rangeland and Watershed Stewardship at Colorado State University. Her research investigates “Fire regime and Vegetation Change in a mixed-conifer Forest of Southwestern Colorado: a recon-struction from Paleo-ecological evidence.” ms. aoki is a graduate of Yale University. recipient of the Kurt Gerstle Fellowship, Janice brahney is a doctoral student under Dr. Jason neff, in the Department of Geological Sciences of the University of Colorado at boulder. Her research investigates “Dust Deposition in alpine lakes of Colorado.” ms. brahney holds bachelor’s and master’s degrees from the University of Colorado. She has conducted research in british Columbia and the Yukon Territory. Other grant recipients include: rebecca Harris, a doctoral candidate at the University of Colorado at boulder for her research on the “effects of Pine bark beetle-induced Tree mortality on the Spread of invasive Species”; Jared Heath, of Colorado State University, for his research on the “assessment of the influence of motorized Winter recreation on Sub-nivean Space”; and Heather m. mcintyre, of the University of Colorado at boulder, for her research “Utilizing Satellite remote Sensing Data Over Complex Terrain to monitor Climate Change Parameters.” The review committee consisted of Thomas Cope, Kent Groninger, Sam Guy-ton and chairperson al Ossinger.

For she’s a Jolly good FellowThe CMC Foundation awards its academic grants for 2009

BlauroCk award To Toll

FORT COLLINS!

TO ORDERSee CMC Press Order Form on Last Page

Carissa Aoki (top); Janice Brahney (bottom)

THe 2008 Carl blaUrOCK SilVer PiTOn aWarD, bestowed upon a CmC member who “has invested a substantial amount of personal time and effort in CmC activities, resulting in a significant improvement to the organization” has been presented to Giles Toll.

a retired physician, Giles completed the Colorado fourteeners long ago. He has led CmC hiking, climbing, and cross-country ski trips over a span of many years. Giles served 18 years on the board of the CmC Foundation, including two terms as President. He chaired and served on innumerable CmC committees, and remains available whenever help is needed. Giles’ father and uncle were among the small group that founded the Colorado mountain Club in 1912. mt. Toll, in the indian Peaks Wilderness, is named after his uncle, an early superintendent of rocky mountain national Park.

Front, L to R: John Radloff, Rainie Toll, Harrison Toll, Ellie Toll, May Toll, Caroline Toll, and Sian Hauver. Back, L to R: Susan Toll, Mattie Toll, Giles Toll, Connie Hauver, Darwin Toll, Chris Toll, and Jane Toll.

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Dine at Watercourse Foods Benefit the Colorado Mountain Club

Monday, October 19 from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.

www.watercoursefoods.com 837 e. 17th ave, Denver

On monday, October 19, Watercourse Foods will donate a portion of its proceeds to benefit the CmC. Come show your support by having breakfast, lunch or dinner with family, friends, and co-workers. Watercourse Foods is happy to accommodate large parties, so make sure to bring everyone you know. And don’t forget to order dessert.

To learn more about Watercourse Foods and their com-mitment to environmental sustainability, or to view the menu, go to watercoursefoods.com.

The Backcountry Bash has a long and storied history as the annual fundraising event of the Backcountry Snow-

sports Alliance (BSA). Now, after the union of the BSA and the Colorado Mountain Club, the

17th Annual Bash continues as our mar-quee winter event, and a celebration of the state’s premier mountain-adventure

organization dedicated to recreation, conservation, and education.

17th

Annual

Backcountry BashKeeping the tradition alive!

www.cmc.org/bash

November 14, 2009American Mountaineering Center

Golden

$30


The Clinic

Eating Your Way to the Top Nutrition on the Trail

The saying goes, “You are what you eat.” But, perhaps it should be, “You should eat for what you are.” Are you a hiker? Are you a track sprinter?

Especially when it comes to athletics—including hiking up that fourteener on the weekend, or hiking the Colorado Trail all week—your performance, enjoyment, and safety all depend on how well you fuel your body. Your meals should match your actions. Though elite endurance athletes—cyclists, runners and the like—might often be seen using gels, bars, or drinks made for performance, that isn’t all that they eat. The basis for great performance is real food—whole, quality food in its purest form. But it’s hard to eat a savory chicken breast, a robust salad, even a turkey sandwich when you’re on a bike for five hours. Then, the calorie-rich composition of a PowerBar or a bottle of Cytomax may be essential. The same may be true for you, the hiker. If you know what bonking is, you probably have some idea of how food relates to function—and, in turn, happiness—out in the field. Just like that 5-hour ride, a 10-hour hike demands something of our bodies and our stomachs. But there are some crucial differences, too. When it comes to good nutrition—whether on the bike or on the slopes of Longs Peak—it’s all about a Boy Scout essential.

“it’s like building a good fire,” says Kathleen Farrell, registered dietician at the boulder Center for Sports medicine. and there are different types of fire for differ-ent settings: sometimes you need a bonfire, but more often you’ll want a slow-burning campfire. “You can think of the kindling as your simple carbohydrates—good sources for burning fast. Your complex carbohydrates have fiber and they burn a bit longer. Think of your logs as your proteins and fats. They help maintain healthy blood glucose levels and sustain energy.” as intensity increases, the ratio of kindling to logs will change. a cyclist on a 2- or 4-hour ride will want more simple carbohydrates. When the activity is low intensity, like hiking, there can be more of the complex carbohydrates, fats, and proteins. “Training logs,” or just writing down what you do on a hike or trip, “will allow you to find out what you’re taking in and

By Chris Case


how your performances go,” says Farrell. if it works, stick to it. if it doesn’t, you’ll need to change things up. You’ll need to learn what your gastrointestinal tract can handle, to see how your body is responding to different foods. “Watch out for foods high in fats be-cause you’re putting a large log into the fire and it’s hard to digest. Fiber is just as bad be-cause it’s hard to digest,” says Farrell. With all that blood necessary for digestion, you could be seeing stars well before nightfall. Coupled with the effects of altitude, dizzi-ness can become downright hazardous. like performance-based athletes who need easily digested foods rich in calories, gels, bars, and sports drinks are a great op-tion. and, because of their caloric density, they are ultimately less bulky to carry. but, there is a right way to use them. “always dilute them with 4 to 8 ounces of water,” says Farrell. “Don’t mix them with sports drinks; otherwise you are getting too much of a load. The combination of gels and sports drinks is hydroscopic—it has the tendency to pull water out of the system. Sports drinks by themselves are great if you can tolerate them because they contain so-dium, which actually leads to more drinking which is useful during activity. Of course, hydration every fifteen minutes is crucial and is essential for enjoying the hike.” For those who don’t like gels and bars, the alternative is simple: real foods like pea-nut butter and honey; fruit, of course; dehy-drated foods like raisins are lighter and denser in calories. “real foods always supply what we need,” says Farrell. “but, it’s nice to have a drink that takes care of 400 calories just like that, especially if you’re trying to consume 4,000 or 5,000 calories a day. Still, supple-ments can lead to you going overboard: if two is good, three is better. That’s not a good mindset. it’s all about knowing what your body can handle during activity.” and knowing how to build the right fire. ▲

Do it YourselfNatural Performance FoodsKeeping foods in their purest form ensures high levels of phytochemicals (chemi-cal compounds such as beta-carotene that occur naturally in plants), antioxidants, enzymes and trace minerals. Here are a few recipes that you can try at home be-fore your next hike.

Energy Bars1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup honey1/4 cup soy flour 1/4 cup brown sugar1/4 cup ground flaxseed 1/3 cup applesauce*2 cups all natural granola 1/4 cup walnut/other oil1 teaspoon cinnamon* 1/2 teaspoon sea salt1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 eggs3/4 cup dried fruit*

Preheat oven to 325°F. Grease a 9” x 12” pan. Combine all dry ingredients thor-oughly. In another bowl combine all of the moist ingredients thoroughly. Com-bine the two bowls and spread into pan. Bake for 30 minutes. Cool and cut into 16 squares. *You can replace the cinnamon, applesauce, and dried fruit with 1/3 cup peanut butter, and 1 cup mini-chocolate chips; if you do, then reduce oil to 1 tablespoon.

Nutrition values per bar: 190 calories, 34g carbohydrate, 1.5g fiber, 4g protein, 4g fat, 98mg sodium, 98mg potassium

Super Carbo Bars3 cups rolled oats 3 cups apple juice3 cups granola 1 lb silk or medium tofu, drained2 cups brown rice flour 1/4 cup honey or maple syrup*3/4 teaspoon sea salt

Preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly coat a 10” x 12” pan with vegetable oil of your choice. Mix the ingredients well. Spread evenly into pan. Bake for 30 minutes. Let cool, cut into 16 squares and freeze. *maple syrup = 190mg potassium

Nutrition values per bar: 205 calories, 44g carbohydrate, 4g fiber, 7g protein, 2.3g fat, 110mg sodium, 190mg potassium

Sweet Potato Chips2 medium sweet potatoes 2 teaspoons canola/vegetable oil 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat oven to 400°F. Boil large pan of water. Coat baking sheet with non-stick spray. Slice potatoes 1/4” thick and par-boil. Drain well. Brush oil onto slices and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Place on baking sheet in single layer and bake for 20 minutes. Turn over and bake until slightly crisp for about 5 minutes. Cool and serve.

Classic Corn Dodgers

This old-fashioned cross between pancakes and corn bread is best enjoyed while backpacking with views of alpine meadows. Don't forget the honey.

Before the trip, mix the dry ingredients together:1 cup white flour 1 cup yellow corn meal3 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 cup powdered milk

Put the dry mixture in a quart-size ziplock bag. When ready to cook, heat one tablespoon of cooking oil in the bottom of a pan. Add straight into the dry ingre-dients and mix well in the bag:3 eggs 1 tablespoon cooking oil1 1/2 cups water

Cut one corner off the bag and squeeze about 1/4 cup of batter into the pan. Cook until one side is golden and then flip. Serve with honey or syrup.


◉Pathfinder

◉

Story by Todd Caudle. Photography by Todd Caudle and Dave Showalter.


GoldenColoraDoFinding color to fit a photographer’s eye

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It sounded so simple. Write a short article extolling the virtues of my favorite fall-color hikes in Colorado. No problem. as a professional landscape photographer, the odometer in my truck spins like the numbers on a Cripple Creek slot machine as i explore as many of Colorado’s nooks and crannies as i can. i hike countless miles of glorious mountain trail in search of that fleeting light after a storm, or an extraordinary display of alpine wildflowers. i could tell you just how far i hike in any given year, if only i could write-off my hiking mileage. Could it be at all dif-ficult to come up with a few of my favorite fall-color hikes? Yes, as a matter of fact, it could. You see, of the 30,000 miles i put on my truck each year, many of them are put there between mid-September and mid-October. This all-too-brief window is my most photographically productive time, as i’m out chasing the changing color from one corner of the state to another. Shooting a quiet aspen forest below independence Pass in the early morn-ing, then shooting the majesty of Wilson Peak in the San Juans later that same day is not conducive to the contemplation of the zen-like beauty of a forest trail. let’s step back a second: What is it about fall colors in Colo-rado that make an already beautiful scene ever more so? Unlike new england’s kaleidoscopic variety of color, we mostly get one. but it’s a good one. Walk among a stand of aspens at peak color on a sunny day, as golden light surrounds you, and you’ll swear you’re walking within the sun itself. listen as the wind blows through the forest, and the aspens will quickly tell you how they got their unofficial name: quakies. most important, however, is what we have that our friends back east don’t—the rocky moun-tains. it’s simply hard to beat the image of shimmering golden aspen below a glorious snow-capped peak, topped off with an impossibly blue sky. beyond that, aspens are an interesting species of plant. en-tire mountainsides of aspens are often one single organism, all intertwined below ground, all dependent on the overall health of the forest to survive. it’s even been said that the single largest liv-ing organism on earth is an aspen stand somewhere in Colorado. i know this, because i once heard John Travolta say it in a movie. [incidentally, it is a stand in Utah, named Pando, that holds the title of largest living organism by mass or volume, covering 106 acres and weighing an estimated 6,000 tons. – eds.]


Crater lake Classicis there a more classic Colorado scene than that of the majestic maroon bells reflected in maroon lake? This is just the starting point of an easy hike to Crater lake, from where you’ll be able to crane your neck to see the bells up-close and personal as they rise just beyond the shoreline. The trail ini-tially meanders along the shore of maroon lake before entering the aspens and taking a more uphill tack. Shortly, you’ll hike along-side an enormous waterfall surrounded by aspens, and then you’ll briefly clear the trees as the trail picks its way through a talus field. before getting to Crater lake, you’ll re-enter the aspen forest for your final jaunt to the lake. more adventuresome travelers can add to their journey with a few choices: turning right at the trail junction just before reach-ing the lake brings hikers up the steep trail to buckskin Pass, along which the fall colors continue unabated for quite some distance; continuing straight beyond Crater lake brings you to West maroon Pass.

OUT YOU GO

Crater Lake Trail, Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness

Start Maroon Lake (9,580 feet)

End Crater Lake (10,076 feet)

Mileage 1.65 miles

Elevation gain 600 feet

Tips ▶ It’s hard to beat the view of the Maroon Bells jutting up over a majestic stand of aspen trees, but as you walk the trail to and from Crater Lake, don’t forget to look down to notice some of the colorful understory.

▶ Make the drive from Aspen to the Maroon Lake parking lot for free before 8:30 a.m. After that, you’ll be required to ride the shuttle bus from Aspen Highlands for a fee.

Previous Page: Mists tickle the ridges of Colorado's highest peak, Mt. Elbert, drenched in fall color. Todd Caudle.

▶ Canopy and understory alike light up on the Crater Lake Trail near the Maroon Bells. Todd Caudle.


autumn HighOn late-September weekdays, once the throngs of peak-baggers have returned to the flatlands, it’s possible to experience near-solitude on a Colorado fourteener—even the state’s highest. The South mount elbert trail meanders through a stunning forest of tall, white-barked aspen trees on the eastern slopes of the mountain. beaver ponds near Corske Creek reflect the show. it’s also likely that you’ll be treated to some conspicuous and rare stands of red aspen near here. as the trail climbs the eastern rib of mount elbert, aspens give way to spruce and fir forests. Don’t worry—the fall spec-tacular isn’t over yet. Climb past treeline and enjoy the ruddy golden brown of the tun-dra, flecked with fiery red accents, distant memories of summer’s showy wildflower display. The higher you go, the more ex-pansive the views become. From here you’ll marvel at the vast expanses of unbroken as-pen forests draped across the landscape as far as the eye can see. Once on the summit, enjoy the 360-degree panorama of distant fall colors, from the mosquito range to the east, to the elk mountains to the west. You’ll see the familiar profile of the maroon bells piercing the sky as a blue-gray shadow to the

Colorful Coloradoin putting together this list of fall color hikes, i decided that i needed back-up. For that i turned to Dave Showalter, photogra-pher and author of “Prairie Thunder—The nature of Colorado’s Great Plains,” winner of the Colorado book award. Together, we came up with a few more options for hiking among autumn’s splendor.

▶ Buffalo Peaks loop, near Fairplay: Circumnavigate the namesake peaks of the Buffalo Peaks Wilderness Area and travel through a mix of aspen and pine forest, with numerous beaver ponds along the way.

▶ Bierstadt Moraine, Rocky Mountain National Park: The trail to Bierstadt Lake traverses the moraine, which is covered with aspen. Rising in the distance are peaks of the Continental Divide.

▶ Conundrum Creek, Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness: This hike, through lush aspen forests, can end with a soak in some of Colorado’s premier backcountry hot spring pools. Be forewarned: clothing is optional.

▶ Dark Canyon Trail, Ruby Range, near Crested Butte: Start at Horse Ranch Park along the Kebler Pass Road and climb high enough for a distant view of imposing Dark Canyon, with nothing but an unending array of fall colors separating you from the canyon several miles distant.

west, and know that there, too, are some of Colorado’s most beautiful autumn scenes, to be explored another day.

OUT YOU GO

Mount Elbert, Sawatch Range

Start South Mount Elbert trailhead (9,600 feet)

Turnaround point Mount Elbert summit (14,433 feet)

Mileage 11.5 miles, round-trip

Elevation gain 4,800 feet

Tips ▶ With a 4WD vehicle, you can trim 4 miles round-trip and 800 feet of elevation gain. However, this part of the hike is through some of the most spectacular aspen forests in Colorado. If you’ve got the stamina for the entire trip, consider parking at the paved trailhead.

▶ One of the best parts of climbing in the fall is the reduced likelihood of getting caught in a thunderstorm. However, diminished chance does not mean zero chance. It’s always a good idea to get an early start and to keep an eye on the sky.

▲ Hallet Peak rises above golden aspen in Rocky Mountain National Park. Late September is prime time for fall color in Colorado's Rockies. Dave Showalter.


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Rocky mountain national Park—the epitome of the Coloradan landscape—was the state’s second, the nation’s tenth, and remains one

of the most famous and monumental of america’s national parks. incidentally, its es-tablishment in 1915 was inextricably linked to the 25 people who founded a small, pio-neering club for exploring the mountains in 1912—it became known as the Colorado mountain Club. Who were these visionaries and how did they achieve such early success? accomplished, enthusiastic and ener-getic, they envisioned a club with volunteers who would lead hikes and climbs for the membership as well as educate the public about the mountains with lectures and slide shows. They also wanted to conserve wild lands in Colorado and made establishing this national park one of their early objec-tives. nothing like starting small. among these charter members was James Grafton rogers, the club’s first presi-dent. a graduate of Yale and the University of Denver law School, he became Dean of both the University of Colorado and Uni-versity of Denver law Schools. rogers wrote books about the history and natural science of the rockies as well as popular songs. He served as assistant Secretary of State in the administration of Herbert Hoover and was in charge of negotiating the treaty between Canada and the U.S. for the development of the St. lawrence Seaway. During World War ii, he was deputy director of the Office of Strategic Services, precursor of the Cia. af-ter the war he participated in a commission to supervise elections in Greece that would

determine whether Greece would have a democratic or communist government. as well as being president of the CmC, he was president of the american alpine Club. af-ter “retirement,” he settled in Georgetown and became mayor of the town. at the end of his life, he was working on an index to all of the mountain passes in Colorado. another founding member was roger Wolcott Toll, a graduate of Columbia who was Superintendent of rocky mountain national Park from 1921 to 1929. During his tenure, he built an extensive system of trails, laid out the construction of Trail ridge road, added the never Summer range to the park’s holdings, and introduced the ethic of leaving wildflowers in their place. Tragi-cally, roger Toll was killed in a head-on col-lision in new mexico while driving home from Great bend national Park. in his hon-or, Paiute Horn was renamed mt. Toll. enos abijah mills was a mountain guide and miner who traveled extensively across the United States, including the frontier of alaska. in 1902, mills bought the longs Peak inn which became a mecca for climbers. in 1903, he became a snow observer for the State of Colorado and trekked many miles on snowshoes reporting on forests and wildlife. This self-educated man became an avid en-vironmentalist and published 16 books. He was the first to climb longs Peak in winter and he climbed the mountain 297 times. mills was also tireless in his efforts to promote the establishment of a national park near estes Park. Described by Horace albright, future Director of the national Park Service, as “a nasty little mosquito waiting to draw blood,” mills could be un-forgiving when people disagreed with him. but he was persistent and proselytized the virtues of creating the park to thousands of people in america through his magazine ar-ticles and books. Historian Carl abbott elo-quently summarized the complexities of this lone naturalist:

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◀ The Charter of 1912. "We Citizens of Colorado here present organize our-selves as the Colorado Mountain Club..." The rest is history.▶ The Official Endorsement by the club.

“it might well be considered the first great achievement of the Colorado mountain Club.” – morrison Shafroth

The greatest accomplishments of Enos Mills came when he was alone. He was a patient and sensitive observer whose understanding of the Colorado wilderness deepened throughout his life, and he had the ability to interpret his knowledge in clear and forthright prose that still conveys his sense of delight. At the same time, the long years of solitary living and self-reliance that made him an effective nature writer may also have limited his emotional maturity. When he faced the need to deal with other people as equals or to work with orga-

nizations, personal doubts interacted with an adamant reliance on his own expertise. The result was bluster, which destroyed his effective-ness and thereby confirmed his worst suspicions about his associates. In his career as a pubic advocate he was a tragic figure, a man who had achieved much as a writer and as a spokes-


Then & nowalmost one hundred years. almost nothing has changed.

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almost one hundred years. almost nothing has changed.

1915First acting supervisor: C. r. Trowbridge, a native of new York who had distinguished him-self primarily as a military man. He was told to "run" the Park on a budget of $10,000 a year.

First ranger: r. T. ("Dixie") macCracken, a 22-year-old structural engineer from Wash-ington, D.C. (The ranger's salary was $900 a year, or roughly $2.50 a day. Out of this sum, macCracken not only supported himself but also two horses and a Ford car.

Elk: in 1913 and 1914, the estes Valley im-provement association and U.S. Forest Service transplanted 49 elk from Yellowstone national Park to the area.

Total visitors: 31,000

2009Total wilderness acreage: 249,339

Elk: The elk population in the park fluctu-ates dramatically from summer to winter. as many as 3,200 elk gather in summer, but that number dwindles to 1,000 during winter as elk migrate to lower elevations and move to areas outside the park.

Total visitors: 2,929,750 (2008)

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man for Colorado, but also a man who under-mined the broader influence on the conserva-tion policy, which he so greatly desired.

The other charter members of the club are as interesting as rogers, Toll and mills, but less well known. mary Sabin was the first to sign the charter; her signature was fol-lowed by those of several women—lucretia Vaile, Frances rogers, rose lee Smith, ethel Fraser and ruth rogers. all were active hik-ers and climbers.

Sabin, as the club’s first secretary, was one of the early organizers of club activi-ties. after graduation from Smith College in northampton, mass., she was offered an assistantship in astronomy, but turned it down to return to Denver to help her sis-ter, Florence, get an education. mary began a successful career as a mathematics teacher while her sister, also a CmC member, grad-uated from Johns Hopkins University with a medical degree and became the first woman at Hopkins with the rank of full professor.

Dr. ethel Fraser practiced medicine in Denver and served as Denver’s City Physi-cian from 1912-1915. During World War i, she went abroad with a group of female american doctors to serve in the French army; the United States had refused their offer. She loved the mountains and enjoyed collecting mountaineering books which she eventually donated to the CmC library. Thirteenth to sign the charter was George Cooper barnard, CmC president between 1919 and 1920. He led the first five

▲ A formal dedication ceremony was held on September 4, 1915 in Horseshoe Park. CMC Collection.


CmC state outings and, for the proposed rocky mountain national Park, interviewed locals, pored over maps, and handled a tran-sit on mountaintops to help delineate the boundaries. When he was delighted with the scenery from mountaintops he was known to cry out the Cohuila indians’ war chant he ne terratoma, ne terratoma! Today, both a lake and a mountain echo his sense of joy: Terra Toma lake and Terra Tomah Peak. Charles Partridge adams was the 15th to sign the charter. before helping to found

the club, adams was a landscape artist. Stimulated by a three-month camping trip in Colorado, he began painting landscapes, and by 1890 his work was accepted in the national academy of Design. after 1905, he and his wife summered in estes Park where he worked out of a studio he called “the sketch box.” He painted dramatic mountain scenes, his style becoming more impressionistic with time. His activity as a charter member was during a very produc-tive time in his career, and his output even-

tually numbered over 3,000 paintings.

Our national Parkin 1912, there was abundant open space in Colorado, but little sense of conservation; few people thought that we should save land or wildlife. against strong opposition from water, timber, mining, cattle, and other in-terests, concerned CmC members wrote newspaper articles, led tours, conducted lan-tern (slide) shows, and gave lectures to edu-cate the public about the proposed rocky


mountain national Park. enos mills alone wrote 2,000 letters, 64 newspaper and mag-azine articles, and gave 42 lectures. To outline future park boundaries, CmC members hiked throughout the un-marked wilderness. r.b. marshall, chief topographer for the USGS, said there were too many unnamed mountains in the area and, until they were named, he wouldn’t print topographic maps. To solve this prob-lem, the CmC appointed Harriet Vaille to

head a nomenclature committee that would use names the indians had given the peaks. Vaille and her friend edna Hendrie traveled, partly by wagon, to the Wind river reser-vation in Wyoming to recruit arapahos for this task. Three arapahos, Gus Griswold, 73, Sherman Sage, 63, and Tom Crispin, 38 (their interpreter) returned with them to estes Park. With Oliver Toll, roger Toll’s brother, and Shep Husted as guide, the five men, but not the women, camped for two weeks, naming future park areas like never Summer range and lumpy ridge, using over 36 indian names [See page 27].

To the government committee charged with deciding the fate of the park, the iras-cible mills made a stirring plea. Congress-men and senators emphasized the economic value of the park to the state and region. The committee was deluged with excerpts from noted authors on the beauty of the landscape. The Fourth earl of Dunraven, a british writer and aristocrat with ties to the estes Park area, rhapsodically expressed the tumult of the terrain in one of these letters:

The whole region is one vast brewery of storms. Chemical changes are constantly going on. Elec-tricity is working with exceptional vigor, riving the solid rocks, devastating trees, and putting forth most vividly the awful and mysterious manifestations of its strength. Hot currents and cold currents fight aerial battles round those patient peaks, that stand unmoved amidst the roar and racket of elemental strife…Tempests shriek round the crags and moan dismally as they toss the gnarled and matted branches of the stunted trees that force their adventurous way up the broad shoulders of the range. Snow in winter, rain and hail in summer, pour upon

the higher summits, while beneath the land is glowing under a cloudless sky.

attorney morrison Shafroth, CmC President in 1914, led the final effort to per-suade Congress to adopt the bill establishing the park. He traveled to Washington, D.C., with Frank W. byerly, a CmC member and photographer. byerly presented hand-col-ored, stereoptical photographs of the rugged land to the congressional committee, and

the images helped win them over. On Janu-ary 26, 1915, the bill to establish the park, originally drafted by James Grafton rogers, was signed by President Woodrow Wilson. at the 50th anniversary of the park, Superintendent Granville liles commented, “There would have been no Park if it had not been for the efforts of the Colorado mountain Club.” ▲

Gerald Caplan is a past president of the Colorado Mountain Club and the Colorado Mountain Club Foundation.


Forty-eight years after he and other members of the Colorado moun-tain Club had arranged a two-week pack trip with three arapaho indi-

ans through the estes Park-Grand lake re-gion of Colorado, Oliver Toll was persuaded to publish his original notes from 1914. it seems that their value had finally been real-ized. The published work came to be known as Arapaho Names and Trails. now, ninety-five years after the pack trip, it is remarkable to look back upon the trip as a whole: the impetus, its social dynamic, the terrain, and the cultural and geographic value. To think it was an official endeavor of the club, organized by the so-called nomenclature Committee, makes it all the more interesting. On July 14, 1914, three indians who had lived in the estes Park area as children arrived in longmont by train from the Wind river reservation in Wyoming: Tom Crispin, a 38-year-old indian interpreter of partly white blood, “carried his suitcase with an air of considerable sophistication”; Sher-man Sage, 63, wore his blue cloth Chief-of-Police uniform, with a roll of blankets under his arm; and Gun Griswold, at 73 the old-est of the visiting party, “was fanning himself embarrassedly with some eagles’ feathers, his share of the luggage.” The party left longmont for estes Park, in the automobiles of mr. C. F. Hendrie and mr. F. O. Vaille, and arrived at longs Peak inn where, with the help of enos mills, plans were made for the trip. The party, assisted by local outfitter Shep Husted, achieved their goal of crossing as much of the region as possible, especially in the high country, tra-versing what is now rocky mountain na-tional Park, to Grand lake and back again. in all, Toll was able to match many indian names with local names, for natural features and trails alike; learn something of and de-vise a pronunciation guide for the arapaho language; and gather, through numerous campfire discussions, some of the customs, legends, dances and songs of the arapaho. The words and perspective of Oliver Toll cannot be improved upon. The follow-ing is an excerpt from his book, compiled in 1962, though written at the time of the trip in 1914. in detailing the three indians, we might be able to appreciate the scope and value of their trip.

Gun Griswold was the oldest of the Indians, seventy-three years old. He found it a hard trip. He rode in the saddle with the ease and poise of a sack of oats, and about the middle of the trip developed a sore back, so that we made the traveling as easy as possible for him. As Tom said, the people at the reservation would be apt to blame us if Griswold never came back. As we were coming back over the Flat Top Trail, which is pretty hard going, Griswold got discouraged, got off his horse and sat down on a rock, telling us to go ahead, but that he was an old man, it was too hard a trip for him, and he wanted to be left right there. It was a very natural feeling but not a very practical one. This, by the way, was the only instance on the trip of anything ap-proaching bad humor on the part of the Indi-ans. They were ideal camping companions, jolly and good natured. Griswold has been a judge among the Arapahos under United States law which was translated into the Arapaho language. Now he is retired on a moderate allowance, taken out in rations, I believe. No one could help respecting him. He spoke little, had a great deal of dignity, and was treated with consideration by the oth-ers. They said that his only son had been killed a few months ago by another Indian, which ac-counted for Griswold’s lack of spirits. Sherman Sage, sixty-three years old, was a much more active man, and as jolly as Griswold was quiet. He had been in innumerable Indian battles in his day, a wound on his right hand tes-tifying to his part in the battle of Clear Creek. At present he occupies the office of Chief-of-Police on the Reservation. This is perhaps the most important Indian office there, though the

chief activity of the police department is the ar-rest of Indians who get drunk. (It is against the law to sell Indians liquor.) Sage was evidently a good man for his position, responsible, brave, and cool. He impressed one as particularly trustworthy and honest. Added to this, he was a pretty shrewd old Indian, and a good judge of people... When Sage used to live near Denver, fifty years ago, the most substantial building was an adobe house on the lower part of the Cherry Creek. Sage’s recollections of Denver was a number of houses standing on sand spits in the creek bottom, resting on posts which kept them several feet above the sand... Tom Crispin, the interpreter, was about thirty-eight years old. He is the official Inter-preter for the Arapahos on the Wind River Res-ervation in Wyoming, and interprets very well, as he speaks both good and colloquial English, and is intelligent and accurate. His point of view is entirely that of the whiteman. He has met ev-ery president since Arthur [Chester Arthur, the 21st U.S. President – Eds.], has a daughter who is ready to enter college, and a son, Tom, Jr., whom he calls Buster, so you can see that he is quite up to date. His Indian name is White Horse, and he belongs to a family that is one of the seven lead-ing ones among his tribe. He has considerable property on the reservation. On the trip, Tom considered himself one of us rather than one of the Indians. He would say, for instance, ‘You couldn’t lose these Indians in these woods; they could find their way home from anywhere you could put them, while you or I might easily get lost.’ Tom slept in our tent, the two older Indians having a tent by themselves.

PlACiNG NAMesRemembering a1914 pack trip

▲ On the left is Shep Husted. "The indians called him 'Sage-Brush Dude.'" Next to Husted is Gun Griswold, "dignified patriarch." Sherman Sage wears the important uniform of Chief-of-Police. Next is Tom Crispin. On the right is Oliver Toll, "The Tall one", a cousin of Harriet Vaille. Seated is a summer visitor to Estes Park.


CanyonCountry

GemColorado’s Dinosaur National Monument

▲ The Gates of Lodore, Dinosaur National Monument Airphoto/Jim Wark

By Ted Alvarez


As a youngster, Dinosaur national mon-ument held a special place in my heart:

it was the place where all the plastic-toy and storybook dinosaurs that infested my youth would come to life in an epic jumble of rock and bone. but i grew past that somehow, and my days filled with the usual suspects: comic books, rock 'n’ roll, girls. as i became an adult, Dinosaur should’ve moved back on the radar. The outdoors commanded my attention, and the famous red canyonlands of Utah remained high on my must-see list. i had some vague idea that Dinosaur national monument contained canyons as well, but how could it possibly match the alien shapes of arches, or the vast depths of Canyonlands? and it was so out of the way; like tons of people, i discounted it and kept trundling with the rest of the i-70 pack towards moab. but, i’m happy to say, i’ve been making a huge mistake: Dinosaur national monu-ment houses some of the best canyons on the continent, a best-kept secret preserved simply by being off the beaten path. On its trails, sheer, brick-colored rock walls often groan hundreds of feet above you on either side, and even if you yell your loudest, you’ll be the only one to hear the cascading echo. From intimate desert washes festooned with pictographs, to sweeping white sand-stone vistas, Dinosaur deserves to be men-tioned in the same breath as its famous Utah cousins. but you won’t hear me saying it—i’d much rather keep it to myself.

Distant DinosaurTucked away against the forgotten, barren border of northwestern Colorado and east-ern Utah, Dinosaur national monument doesn’t command much outside attention. Visiting from the Front range requires an almost six-hour push on remote highways, and once you near the park, asphalt simply vanishes from the map. Sections of the park that might only be 10 miles apart sometimes require multi-hour circumnavigation. People who do visit often choose to con-fine themselves to rafting trips on the Green river or gape at the admittedly impressive dinosaur bones on display in the visitor center (The famous Quarry Visitor Center, which houses a cliff face teeming with jum-bled dinosaur bones, has been closed since 2006 because of structural instability. With $13.1 million in federal stimulus funds, the park hopes to reopen the Quarry in 2011). but if you tackle Dinosaur on foot,

you’re in for a treat. Hikers will encounter quiet miles of desert paradise in the second-largest land-based national monument. in addition to avoiding some of the crowds and attention that flood more famous can-yon parks of Utah, visitors will discover an arid playground practically overflowing with that rarest of desert commodities: water.

Gates of LodoreThe 210,844 acres of canyonland near Di-nosaur, Colo., and Vernal, Utah, were first declared a national monument in 1915, al-beit as a much tinier 80-acre parcel of land around the quarry. but the true beginning of the park far predates that: 150 million years ago, during the Jurassic period, a massive flood washed piles and piles of prehistoric animal bones into a riverbed, where they were preserved under layers of thick sedi-ment. When the Uinta mountains of Utah were formed just to the west, tectonic forces lifted and tilted this riverbed, and erosion exposed a cliff face littered with dinosaur bones. Scientists have been chipping away at this paleontological goldmine for nearly a century, producing amazingly complete fossil skeletons of several Jurassic species, including the charismatic carnivore allosaurus. These exposed prehistoric monsters became the park’s number-one draw, evi-denced by the giant plaster dinosaurs that litter the gateway towns of Dinosaur, Ver-

nal, and Jensen, Utah. but lucky for us, early park boosters also recognized the beauty and importance of the surrounding canyons and desert, and they expanded the monument in 1938 to include it. even though i grew up, like many, a childhood dinosaur addict, i wanted to es-cape the fossil-mad rabble and get to wilder areas of the park. i began at the Gates of lo-dore, which marks where the Green river begins to carve the canyons of Dinosaur. Fittingly, the geology of the gates predates the dinosaurs: The Green slices into billion-

year-old layers of red quartzite from the pre-Cambrian period. The approach is all yellow sand and dusty green scrub, but the Gates of lodore rise abruptly, a red gash in the drab earth that rises 1,000 feet above the lazy Green. Those high vertical walls practically adver-tise adventure, and would fit perfectly as an opening scene in a newer, better indiana Jones film that sadly didn’t get made. a short nature trail leads hikers to a higher vantage point filled with sunning liz-ards, and we got a better view of the canyon within those walls. but beyond that vantage point, the river runs flush against the cliff face, and as such remains the strict province of river runners. by the time the sun rose above the cliff walls, three or four guided and private parties had already started pre-paring their rafts for the famous put-in near the Gates of lodore.

Jones Hole Trailmy hiking companion and i didn’t feel like swimming through Class iii-V rapids, so we decamped for the Jones Hole Trail, which began on the northern edge of the park in Utah. The trail begins inauspiciously in a parking lot at the Jones Hole Fish Hatchery, a 45-mile drive from the temporary visitor center across the border from Colorado. This explains all the fish: Jones Hole Creek, a cold-spring fed stream, is positively

overflowing with rainbow, brown, and cut-throat trout, as well as Kokanee salmon. The staff is warm and welcoming, and they’re happy to give you a tour of their fish reintro-duction facilities. but we skipped it, because just beyond that parking lot, we saw the real prize: orange sandstone cliffs studded with piñon, leading deep into Dinosaur. most years, Dinosaur national monu-ment doesn’t get more than 8 inches of pre-cipitation, which keeps it comfortably within the 10-inch annual limit to officially qualify as a desert. but hiking down the Jones Hole

I’m happy to say, I’ve been making a huge mistake: Di-nosaur National Monument houses some of the best can-yons on the continent, a best-kept secret preserved simply by being off the beaten path.


Trail, that’s easy to forget: lush grasses and burdock spill over into the dirt path, and dense groves of cottonwoods and box elder form a cooling canopy. The impossibly clear Jones Creek burbles alongside the trail, and juvenile trout dart into the shadows as you pass. all the water and greenery makes this place feel more like a botanical garden than a dinosaur-bone-filled sand pit. Our destination was the ely Creek Campground, where a scant two back-country sites waited only two miles into the park, right alongside the confluence of the two creeks. Here, the promise of waterfalls, swimming holes, abundant wildlife, and an abbey-like desert solitude beckoned. a few local fly fishers waded in the first 1,000 feet or so, taking advantage of the no- doubt spectacular fishing. They dwindled and the cliffs grew taller as we marched in-ward, but not much more than a mile in, we encountered spectacular pictographs and petroglyphs lining an entire section of can-yon wall, just above eye-level. Some petro-glyphs in Dinosaur date back to the Paleoin-dians of the 1,300-year-old Fremont culture. intricate patterns and clear drawings of elk and even big-shouldered humans were ren-dered against white sandstone outcroppings in bright, rusty ink, looking fresh and new. The pictographs were so close and so vivid that it was easy to feel as if you’d dis-covered them yourself. even stranger, i could somehow relate to the primal motivations that drove them to draw the essentials—food, water, family, dreams—on the walls of their canyon home. Dinosaur national monu-ment is filled with moments like this, mo-ments where time ceases to exist and the line between prehistory and present-day blurs. a bit more mellow hiking and we’d al-ready reached our campsite, with fresh legs but scorching skin under a midday sun. We quickly dashed up the connecting island Park Trail, which deposited us at a small waterfall that poured into a broad, white sandstone bowl that resembled an oversized birdbath. after frightening a garter snake into the grass, we sat under the waterfall, refreshed by the pounding cold. So far, we had enjoyed solitude beyond the fly fishermen, but we saw an older, dusty man in sunglasses round the bend, followed by another, and then another. before long, we had lost our private waterfall to a crowded river trip. (They did, however, show us a technique where you can sit in the channel of the falls above, blocking it momentarily be-fore allowing it to cascade in one big dump.)

We were worried that our solitude had been ruined, but it was premature; after a few hours, the river trip moved back down the Jones Hole Trail to their rafts on the Green river. We had the entire Jones Hole Creek to ourselves again, and we ventured down another two miles to the big Green itself, where the rafting parties had left and the river churned gently, undisturbed. mindful of the current, we couldn’t resist taking another swim in the frigid shallows near the bank. The Green is big: a real river with a capital ‘r.’ Fed by Wyoming’s Wind rivers, it eventually fills the Colorado with a sig-nificant bulk of its water. To bask in this gla-cial melt in the middle of the desert is to be humbled by the scale of the world, to experi-ence the connection between vastly different ecosystems. not to mention fun: Swimming against the current and searching for warm spots in the cold flow of the green while the sun sets isn’t a bad way to spend an evening. We let the air dry us off as we hiked back up the Jones Hole Trail to home base at ely Creek. That night, we camped alone. no one took the other site—except prairie dogs and marmots, who constantly peered into our tents while we gazed up at an arm of the milky Way framed by the canyon.

Dinosaurs vs. The DesertOn our way out of the park, i wondered if i hadn’t missed out on a lot of front-country attractions by going for the backcountry trip. The big-money draw in Dinosaur na-tional monument, after all, is the dinosaurs, and i’d mostly opted out in hopes of enjoy-ing solitary desert without having to drive deep into Utah or arizona. but then i thought back to our quick stop at the Visitor’s Center in Jensen on our way into the park. a square-jawed ranger with a toothy smile explained that Jones Hole remained his favorite hike. While he told us about the opportunities to see wild-life, and the clarity of the water, i remem-ber kids running all over, exhilarated to be surrounded by a bronze allosaurus claw, or the full-size stegosaurus replica inexplicably painted like a dairy cow. To these kids, this small piece of Dinosaur national monu-ment must’ve seemed like the be-all-end-all. it was then that i realized my be-all-end-all happened the night before. For our dinner of rice with mushrooms and chorizo, we ditched camp and hauled our cooking gear partway up the island Park trail. We scrambled past the waterfall, up until we

reached sandstone domes that arched up-wards like an empty swimming pool. We scrambled higher, tiptoeing past cryptobi-otic soil and edging along a small cliff face until we were atop a ridge in the middle of a vast amphitheatre. Hoodoos dotted the ridge, and on one side bare, white sandstone walls and bowls broke off into branching canyons, while on the other, red-and-white layers of sedimentary rock piled up like lay-ers of a crumbling cake. Just as the rice finished cooking, the sun set, bathing our amphitheater in pink. We’d have to scramble down in the dark. Perfect. ▲

Ted Alvarez is Assistant Online Editor at backpacker Magazine.


▲ Colorado National Monument ripples on the western edge of the Massive Colorado Plateau. Airphoto/Jim Wark

▼ Independence Monument looms large above the surrounding red rock, just outside of Fruita. Chris Case

Colorado's Other Canyon LandsIf Dinosaur doesn't quite fit your bill, check out these other canyon hotspots in the Rocky Mountain state.

All the Drama, Easy to AccessColorado National Monumentent"You get the essence of wilderness with easier access than Dinosaur," says Michelle Wheatley, chief of Visitor Services. "It's quite dramatic, and there's something for everyone along the canyon rims." Wheatley recommends the Monument Canyon hike, a 6-mile path that takes visitors into the heart of Colorado National Monument. You'll walk among the 400-foot-tall walls of the park's premier red rock monoliths like Independence Monument, Kissing Couple, Pipe Organ, and Grandview Spires.

Best time to visit Fall, which brings cooler temperatures and abundant opportunities to see desert bighorns.

For a deeper backcountry experience An undeveloped route through the remote No Thoroughfare Canyon offers steep terrain on a spotty, 8.5-mile-long trail. Rewards for your perseverance include solitude amid 400-foot-high sandstone walls.

More Info www.nps.gov/colm


Archaeological WonderMesa Verde National ParkEver fantasized about stumbling onto a long-forgot-ten civilization? If so, it's hard to beat Mesa Verde: This national park in Southwestern Colorado boasts some of the largest and best preserved cliff dwellings in the United States. Around 600 A.D., Anasazi Indians constructed elaborate sandstone houses, towers and Kivas (underground ceremonial rooms) and occupied them for more than 700 years. Visitors should get tickets ($3) for a ranger-guid-ed tour of either Spruce Tree House, Long House, or Balcony House, where you'll learn about the cultural and anthropological history of the region in intimate detail. Hikers with time and strong legs should also spring for the Prater Ridge Trail, a nearly 8-mile trek

that climbs the edge of a mesa and showcases dramat-ic changes in elevation, vegetation, and climate.

Interesting fact While ancestral Puebloans lived in the Mesa Verde region for over 700 years, they didn’t get the great idea to build their famous cliff dwellings until the last 100. Until then, they dwelled on top of the surrounding mesas.

More Info www.nps.gov/meve

New Kid on the BlockDominguez Canyon Wilderness Area

President Obama just gave Dominguez Canyon Wilderness Area designation this year, but that probably won't spoil anything. This little-known canyon zone sees only a handful of visitors a year, which is fine, because you'll have piñon-juniper mesas, abundant wildlife, and multiple rivers all to yourself. Dominguez also offers a variety-pack bonus: With elevations ranging from 4,800 to 9,000 feet, you can travel from craggy sand-stone canyons to alpine zones full of aspens all in one day. Hike one mile beyond the confluence of Big and Little Dominguez Creeks to find an impressive waterfall and boulders laden with petroglyphs. In addition to becoming an official Wilderness Area, Obama also included the region in the larger Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area. According to Erin Curtis, public affairs specialist with the BLM’s Grand Junction office, they will seek public input as they develop official conservation and management plans over the next few years. They plan to form a public advisory council within the next few months that will help guide future plans for the park. For information on joining the council, look for updates at http://www.blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/denca.html.

More Info www.blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/gjfo/recreation/wsa/dominguezwsa.html

▲ The intriguing interior of a Mesa Verde Kiva. ▶ Sunset bathes the park's cliff dwellings in golden light. Chris Case (2)


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Borrowing from our Children How the CMC helped establish more than just Rocky Mountain National Park

"The Colorado Mountain Club is exerting every possible effort to bring about the creation by Congress of a Na-tional Park in that wonderful territory lying along the Continental Divide..." Such emphasis was placed on helping establish Rocky Mountain National Park that the club took its second annual outing to Estes Park, "with a desire to acquaint our members with the extraordinary possibilities of this region as a National Playground..." From the Second Annual Outing brochure, CMC Collection.


Borrowing from our Children How the CMC helped establish more than just Rocky Mountain National Park

By Chris Case Steve Bonowski, Anya Byers, and-Jan Robertson contributed to the research of this article.

rotecting Colorado’s wild lands—and the indelible experiences that can only be had within them—has been a fundamental ambition of the Colo-rado Mountain Club since its founding in 1912.

The role that members played in the establishment of Rocky Mountain National Park, a mere three years after the club’s birth, is well documented. Of equally grand importance was its role in the park’s designation as Wil-derness in 2009. But there is more to Colorado than that famed slice of Rocky Mountain terrain. In the past 94 years—between these two monu-mental achievements—numerous feats of conservation have sprung from the club. Perhaps these other suc-cesses haven’t been so easily remembered, or seemed so grand—after all, they didn’t result in the opening or eternal protection of a crown jewel of the National Park System. But, they are part of an incredible catalog of triumphs that collectively and continuously fulfill the club’s call to preservation, protection, and access.

The Last Frontier…of Coloradoin 1915, after theft and vandalism plagued paleontologist earl Douglass’ efforts to ex-cavate a quarry in the northwestern portion of Colorado, the professor finally petitioned for the quarry to be protected as a national monument. He was successful: President Woodrow Wilson so proclaimed the 80 acres comprising the quarry area on October 4, 1915, as Dinosaur national monument. in the 1930s, the club set out to learn more about this remote canyon country. First aroused in 1933 by CmC President Garrat b. Van Wagenen, interest steadily grew in exploring the region. Subsequently, efforts increased in protecting a greatly ex-panded area beyond those original 80 acres. more than half a dozen articles about the great canyons of the Green and Yampa riv-ers appeared in the pages of Trail & Timber-line between 1934 and 1937, reflecting the numerous trips that were taken to the can-yons. in 1934, members Van Wagenen, ed-mund b. rogers, and robert niedrach took a flight over the landscape, with niedrach making “a number of still and moving pic-tures” (Trail &Timberline, #205, november 1935). rogers was able, in a few moments of flight, to observe the general topogra-phy and scope of a landscape which a few

months before he had tirelessly studied in detail during a two-week pack trip on behalf of the national Park Service. “There is something artificial, some-thing almost unnatural about the entrance to lodore,” wrote rogers, referring to the plunging gateway of lodore Canyon, a crumbling, upturned canyon cut of the Green river. “Within sight of it, it fasci-nates and holds one’s attention. [John Wes-ley] Powell records the depressing effect it had on his party. There is something almost sinister about it.” in 1936, under the leadership of rich-ard morris, the CmC set out to officially explore what they were calling “the last fron-tier of Colorado”—to bring back tangible evidence of the existence of archaeological remains, confirm the romantic stories of the area’s early history, and capture a photo-graphic impression of the beauty of the re-gion. a survey of the frontier—dubbed The Canyon of lodore-Yampa river reconnai-sance of 1936—was born, and revealed the club’s giddiness for pioneering exploration. “Two-thousand-foot vertical canyon walls…a wild, raging river hemmed in by solid rock…a river doubling back within 200 feet of itself…pictographs…pre-historic cliff dwellings…the home of notorious bad

P


January 26, 1915Rocky Mountain National

Park designated

October 4, 1915 Dinosaur National Monument designated

August 25, 1916 National Park Service Organic Act (which created the NPS)

1934 CMC reconnaissance flight over Dinosaur National Monument

1936 CMC organizes Canyon of Lodore-

Yampa River Reconnaissance trips

1938 Dinosaur National Monument enlarged to 204,000 acres

June 29, 1906 Mesa Verde National Park designated (Colorado’s first and the seventh in the United States)

men…unexplored…unmapped…uninhab-ited… the last frontier of Colorado….” The effort that members put towards exploring, surveying, and promoting such special country amounted to a grand en-

dorsement for its protection. and, in 1938, Dinosaur national monument was enlarged to 204,000 acres, including the scenic can-yons of the Green and Yampa rivers which members had proposed.

The Birth of Environmentalismironically, after a lull in its ef-forts, it was an issue facing Dinosaur that brought conser-vation back to the forefront of the club’s attention. “There was no compel-ling conservation issue until 1954,” says Jan robertson, a longtime member of the club and conservation devotee. That year, the bureau of rec-lamation proposed the con-struction of two dams within the heart of the monument—one at Split mountain and one at echo Park where the Green and Yampa rivers join. “and then the Colorado mountain Club blew it.” Though the majority of members who were surveyed opposed the construction of the dams, the board chose not to take a stand. Fortunately, the Colorado Springs and boulder groups of the club circumvented the state board’s decision and, alongside The Wilderness Society and the newly formed Sierra Club, were able to prevent the dams from being built. beyond the controversy

that arose within the CmC, the conserva-tion victory was bittersweet: The Colorado river Storage act was still passed in march 1956, and created several other large dams,

▼ The map of the proposed national monument, prepared by the National Park Service in 1935.


1956 Colorado River Water Project Act enacted

1962 Roger Fuehrer attends the Sierra Club convention

september 3, 1964Wilderness Act passed

January 1, 1970 National Environmental Policy Act enacted

August 20, 1969Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument designated

October 2, 1968National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act

March 30, 2009Rocky Mountain National

Park Wilderness designated

1981CMC hires Anne Vickery, first paid conservation staff

August 1966 CMC calls for protection of Florissant

Fossil Beds against housing development

including Glen Canyon (which created lake Powell), Flam-ing Gorge, navajo, and Curecanti (the Wayne aspinall Units on the Gunnison river). nevertheless, the national public-ity surrounding the dams of Dinosaur resulted in a national concern that no public lands were safe from development, and helped motivate later conservation-minded land man-agement policies such as the Wilderness act and the Wild and Scenic rivers act.

A Coordinated SurgeThe feeble efforts of the club’s conservation work in the 1950s were reversed in 1961. Dick Guadagno reinstituted the con-servation committee and, soon after, a college student, roger Fuehrer, led the club into the age of environmentalism. For many reasons—politics, polemics, and principles—the 1960s saw a national surge in concern for conservation, mirrored within the CmC. Undeniably, the initial effort was small. after a request for $100 in funding was refused by the CmC board, Fuehrer was secretly given money by a sympathetic board member, allow-ing him to ride the train to San Francisco and attend the Sierra Club biennial Wilderness Convention of 1961. The convention proved to be a crushing blow, but an inspiring one. Fuehrer was largely ignored by environmentalists who felt powerless against Colorado’s anti-environmentalist and pro-dam U.S. represen-tative, Wayne aspinall. David brower, the first executive direc-tor of the Sierra Club, said that the environmental movement in the 1950s and 1960s had seen “dream after dream dashed on the stony continents of Wayne aspinall.” Fuehrer returned, however, determined to get something done from within the club: find an issue, form a committee, and wrap it in a philoso-phy that confirmed their principles. The Conservation Committee that formed—a power-ful assemblage of Hugh Kingery (author), Dick lamm (who would later become Governor of Colorado), estella leopold (daughter of ecologist aldo leopold), amy roosevelt (niece of eleanor roosevelt), and six others—started and succeeded with a local issue: banning billboards. but they quickly moved on to a national issue: creation of the national Wilderness Preservation System.

▼ The 1930s saw more than a dozen articles, trip reports, and en-dorsements for the establishment of Dinosaur National Monument.


Working from the apartment Fuehrer shared with three other members, the committee was able to persuade many people to tes-tify at the Denver hearings on the Wilderness act, landmark legis-lation that established wilderness as the highest form of protection for federal public lands. as Fuehrer noted in a 1982 article in Trail & Timberline (#759), Congress actually adjourned for two days while the Congressmen in Denver heard three days of testimony—two days longer than originally scheduled. Successes continued in this age of environmentalism. later that decade, under the direction of estella leopold, the club’s fervent conservation ethic led it to spearhead the protection of what many were realizing was “one of the world’s outstanding natural museums of prehistoric plant and animal life.” in august 1966, an article appeared in Trail & Timberline (#572) that detailed the great fossils and petrified remains of the Florissant lake shales, and called for members to contact their congressmen to support the establishment of Florissant Fossil beds national monument. When housing developments began to spring up within the proposed protected area, a CmC trip was organized to detail the encroachment. Subsequent studies by the trip members led to re-ports being sent to the national Park Service, with recommenda-tions for boundary changes. leopold and fellow CmC member beatrice Willard led the cause to protect the land—and its wealth of paleontological dis-coveries—by forming a group they called Defenders of Florissant. Supported by the innovative tactics of the group’s lawyers who se-

cured an injunction, this sliver of land, shaped by volcanic erup-tions some 34 million years ago, avoided being subdivided into thousands of homes. instead, on august 20, 1969, the area gained protection as Florissant Fossil beds national monument.

For Forest, Flower, and Faunabut, the field of conservation was soon to change. not only were environmental causes gaining national attention and stirring na-tional passions, but the cause for environmental action was becom-ing highly complex. The passage of the national environmental Policy act (nePa) on January 1, 1970, created a requirement that environmental policy be considered through federal agency deci-sion making, and that the public be given the chance to review

For more information about the CMC’s Conservation Department, visit www.cmc.org/conservation.

environmental assessments and impact statements. essentially, pro-tecting the environment became even more a game for experts—and those who could handle mounds of paperwork. it is unfair not to list the many other accomplishments that have come from the club’s devotion to “the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery” on which it was founded. The histori-cal menu includes a multitude of wilderness designations, land-use protection, access negotiations, conservation and recreation balancing acts, and smaller, but collectively no less significant feats. in look-ing at the club’s particular successes in protecting rocky mountain national Park, Dinosaur national monument, and Florissant Fossil beds national monument, it becomes clear that the CmC’s conserva-tion visionaries were wise enough to know that the world is borrowed from our children. Colorado will never again see the likes of a grand landscape like that of rocky mountain national Park protected in perpetuity. large, unfragmented landscapes no longer exist and, further, conservation is a highly regulated beast today. Still, the passion with which members make the call to preserve Colorado’s remaining wild lands may never change. enos mills and many others, including the founding mem-bers of the CmC, had a devotion for what would become Colorado’s most famous park; John muir, Theodore roosevelt and countless oth-ers had it for what would become Yosemite national Park. and, for-tunately, the CmC still has it for the last of Colorado’s wild places. ▲

▲ In September 1966, the club asked for support of its proposed boundary changes to Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, shown in this map that accompanied the article. “A true conserva-

tionist is a man who knows that the world is not given by his fa-thers, but borrowed from his children.” John James Audubon


Roadless Lands

www.cmc.org/roadless

Paul StewartHappy 90th Birthday

September 4, 2009Member since 1954

Editor, Trail & Timberline, 1977-78Chairman of El Pueblo group, 1965

◀ Paul Stewart, Glen Canyon, Spring 1960


Dialing for mountainsBy Chris Case

In recent years, if you ever had the chance to peek your head into the elevator room at the American Mountaineering Center, you’d find tucked behind some miscellaneous pieces of lumber and push carts, a relic of the Colorado Mountain Club, from the days of its infancy. The large cast-bronze, half-moon object wasn’t easy to move, or easy to decipher at first glance.

But it was once a cherished item on display for all of Denver—residents and tourists alike—to use, and in plain view in Cheesman Park. The Denver Republican “has been urging for some time—the setting up of a series of pointers at observation points by which visi-tors would be able to pick out the several peaks and learn the name of each,” read an editorial from 1912. What they got—according to an article in the Denver Times on April 16, 1913, days after the installation was complete—was a mountain index that members “familiar with the system of direc-tories used for similar purposes in Switzerland and California [consid-ered] certainly the most elaborate and one of the finest in the world.” Consisting of a bronze plate upon which this map was then etched, the index indicated nearly 40 prominent mountains (some as far as 130 miles away) and detailed the angle at which they sat from

From the Archives

the pavilion in the park. It also indi-cated each peak’s elevation and its distance from that point. A peep-hole sight on the dial directed the viewer’s eye towards a given peak. Excitement for the index had already begun a year earlier, when the map was published in newspapers. As civic pride often will, the city attraction led to a bit of boastfulness. “It is pen proof of the clearness of the Colorado atmosphere, for probably in no other place on earth can one see 130 miles,” read the Denver Times on August 5, 1912. The geographical work of the map for the index was done by Professor Ellsworth Bethel of East Denver High School, and James Grafton Rogers, the club’s first president. The mechanical work was done in the “optical work-shop” of Paul Weiss, also a mem-ber of the club. Don’t worry—we’ve moved it out of the elevator room. ▲


iT iS WiTH GreaT difficulty and sadness that i write this for Cleve armstrong. i had anticipated another summer of climbing in southwest Colorado: routes were planned, maps organized, and reservations made. but he died June 4, 2009, having lost his battle with pancreatic cancer. i cannot summarize a quarter-century of climbing, running, ski-ing, traveling and adventure; i am just grate-ful for the years we shared together. i started climbing with Cleve in the fall of 1984 when we met on a CmC weekend climb of mt. Hope. by then, he had already reached the summits of Huascarán and mt. mcKinley, and many peaks in Colorado. He had also finished the fourteeners; i had not. He thought the best way to introduce me to his way of climbing was to accompany me as i climbed the rest of the fourteeners. Then, for the next 25 years, we climbed many bicentennials and tricentennials (the 200 and 300 highest peaks in the state). Climbing with Cleve was always an ad-venture. Together, we summited mountains in South america, Tibet, nepal, mustang,

australia, Spain, and russia. He enjoyed every aspect of climbing a mountain and his joy in reaching a summit was infectious. He loved the Colorado mountains the most and was always glad to come home to climb. He was an active leader in the club, and took much pride in being able to assist those who needed instruction—and show-ing them how to have fun along the way. He was a member and instructor for the High altitude mountaineering School. He loved teaching and sharing with others the joy and challenges of climbing, and put-ting them on summits around the world. To this end, he was chair of the expedition Committee, a position he took quite seri-ously. He began attending meetings barely a month out of surgery last spring. Though Cleve practiced optometry and was a retired Colonel in the Colorado national Guard, his love of the mountains might have exceeded his devotion to both. The CmC has lost an active and passionate member; i will miss my husband and climb-ing partner.

14ers!

TO ORDER, see CMC PressOrder Form on Last Page

End of the TrailCleve Armstrong

1942-2009

Always an AdventureBy Karon Young

COLORADOSCRAMBLES!

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on Last Page

▲ Cleve and Ray Langston skied off the north side of the world's highest peak, Mount Everest.

Ray

Lang

ston


Nepal: Annapurna Sanctuary Trek Sept. 26-Oct. 12, 2009 $2,344 (land cost)Annapurna Sanctuary, a shimmering mountain-ringed glacial basin in the heart of the Annapur-na Himal, is one of the most scenic short treks in Nepal. It offers great cultural and geographical diversity as well as outstanding mountain views. Part of the appeal of this 11-day trek is that such a huge glacial cirque is reached so quickly—it takes only five days to hike up to it! Along the way, you’ll pass lowland villages of Gurung and Tamang clans, and cut through thick forests of bamboo, rhododendron, and oak. Continuing on the trek, you’ll walk up and over intricately terraced hills, finally reaching the glaciers and high mountains. Once at the sanctuary, you’ll be surrounded by the high-est peaks of the western Annapurna Himal: The 360-degree views are indescribably beautiful, especially at sunset, when the peaks glow with a molten radiance. For more information, please contact Pemba Sherpa at 303-525-6508 or [email protected].

Hike with Llamas in Escalante Antone Ridge, UtahSeptember 21 - 25, 2009$938The trip will include five days of hiking in one of the more remote and isolated sections of the Escalante region. There will be a base camp on the west side of Death Hollow, below the sum-mit of Antone Ridge, and each day we will hike in a new direction to explore different parts of the canyon. We will visit side canyons and at least one narrow/slot canyon that will involve some easy canyoneering. One day will be spent on the rim for long-distance views. We will also see several rock art panels and some surface sites left by the Ancestral Puebloans. This trip will include rough trail hiking, slick-rock and river crossings; participants require a B trip classification. See http://lamountaineers.

CMC Adventure Travel

org/145.html for a trip report of this tour. Included in the cost are tents, sleep-ing bags, bag liners, sleeping pads, cooking gear, meals (all meals from breakfast on day one through lunch on day five), llamas, guide and wrangler service. Hike with just your day-pack. Price does not include round trip travel to Boulder, Utah, two night stay in motel, two evening meals, and wrangler tips. For more in-formation, contact Bob Seyse, 303-718-2005 or [email protected].

Vietnam: Cultural Experiences and BicyclingFebruary 19 - March 1, 2010$2200 for 8 travelers ($1960 for 10-11 or$1866 for 12-15)This 11-day trip with Bea Slingsby starts in Ha-noi in northern Veitnam. We will spend two days in Ha Long (which translates as “dragon de-scending”) Bay. The craggy karst limestone tow-ers rise hundreds of feet from the green waters of the bay. We’ll board a comfortable Chinese-style junk with private facilities for an overnight cruise around 3,000 islands rising steeply from the bay. There will be stops at various grottos and caves and an opportunity to kayak here in this World Heritage site. Then, from Hanoi we fly to Hue to explore and get ready to cycle. Our route goes south through fishing and agricultural villages, to Hoi

An. Since this leg is 89 miles long, most of us will get picked up part way through by the support van, which will always accompany us. We have a second night in Hoi An as there is much to see and experience. There is also the option for more cycling. On day seven, we will continue bicycling to Quang Ngai on country roads. Day eight, we will cycle from Tam Quan to Qui Nhon with ex-cellent coastal views. There will be two climbs of about 10% grade, but the van is available. From there, we can ride in the van to Dieu, then cycle a delightful quiet road up a gentle valley and down to Chi Thanh, then finish the leg by driv-ing into the city. We will spend day 10 in Nha Trang, where you may opt to take a boat trip to surrounding islands, visit a fishing village, and return in Viet-namese round boats. On day 11, we will fly to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), then home. The trip price includes two internal air flights, tips, all meals except two, snacks, bottled water, knowledgeable English-speaking guides, van support, bike mechanic, daily route maps, and a high standard of accommodations in French Colonial hotels or beach-front resorts. Our aver-age daily distance by bicycle is 43 miles, while at a latitude similar to that of the Caribbean Sea. Not included in the trip are: bicycle rental at a price of $140 (hybrid Trek 7.5 in a wide range of sizes), a single room supplement of $395, air-port taxes, visa, alcoholic beverages, and sight-seeing expenses other than those specified. Contact trip leader, Bea Slingsby, for fur-ther information and an application at (303) 422-3728, or [email protected].

Yellowstone in WinterFeb. 3 - Feb. 8, 2010Cost $1020 - $1166 (depending on accommodation level)Steaming geysers, bison, elk, deer, wolves, and other wildlife are all part of the experience of visiting Yellowstone National Park in the winter. Skiers, snowshoers, nature lovers and photographers will enjoy the convenient trails leading directly from the lodge to the geysers and waterfalls. The trip includes round-trip bus and snow coach transportation between

For your benefit and enjoyment, the following trips have been reviewed and approved by the Adventure Travel Committee and are officially sanctioned by the Colorado Mountain Club.

Visit www.cmc.org/at for more detailed itineraries and registration forms.

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Denver and Yellowstone, a one-night stay in a motel, 3 full days and 4 nights in the Old Faith-ful area of the park, snow coach drop-off fees, happy hours, and several meals (4 breakfasts, 1 lunch, and 3 buffet dinners). We depart Den-ver by bus on Wednesday morning, February 3, stay overnight in a motel in Jackson, arriving in Yellowstone on Thursday afternoon. We leave Yellowstone and return to Denver on Monday, February 8, 2010. See website or contact lead-ers for full details. Trip Leaders are Polly Hays (303-964-8225 or [email protected]) and Joan Rossiter (303-695-0389, [email protected])

Death Valley Hiking February 28 - March 5, 2010 $998 Snow-capped mountains, sand dunes, castles, abandoned mines, unique wildlife, canyons, lay-ers of multi-colored rocks, and the world’s low-est golf course! Temperatures will be a moder-ate 65 to 75 degrees. Springtime is Death Valley National Park’s most colorful time of year. Not only will you hike (several A or moderate B hikes) through the one-of-a-kind terrain that only Death Valley can offer, but you will also visit Scotty’s famous castle, explore the remains of abandoned mines, see unique wildlife, and more. Massage therapy, horseback riding, tennis, golf, and horse-drawn carriage rides are only a few of the many enjoy-able options that can be enjoyed during your spare time. Price includes transportation between the Las Vegas airport and the park, lodging at the newly renovated Furnace Creek Ranch (a com-plete resort complex in the heart of the park), meals, admission to Scotty’s Castle, and a final group dinner. For details, please visit www.cmc.org/AT or contact Terry Hardie at [email protected] or Sharon Silva at [email protected].

Best of the Grand Canyon – Col-orado River Raft & HikeApril 10 - 22, 2010$4,075 (Limit 18)Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, this unique trip to the Grand Canyon offers partici-pants the opportunity to experience this World Heritage Site on a motorized raft for 188 miles through the best of the canyon. We will depart from the historic Lee's Ferry and end with a he-

licopter ride from Whitmore Wash and a plane flight back to the start. It is especially ideal for those who would like to hike in areas which can be reached only from the river, and those who have always wanted to experience the canyon but who do not wish to make the seven-mile, 4,500-foot trek on foot. Our outfitter, Hatch River Expeditions, has been guiding river trips through the canyon for over 70 years. We will have three guides and 20 participants on two 35-foot S-rig boats running fuel-efficient and quiet 4-stroke outboard en-gines. The average motorized raft trip through the Grand Canyon runs seven days, so this 12 day trip will have plenty of opportunities for hiking. They offer us daily guided hikes at two or three hiking levels, or one may choose to rest in camp. There are several opportunities for point-to-point hikes where we may hike from one drainage to the next and the raft will pick us up later in the day. The deposit is $300. Please visit www.cmc.org/AT for cancellation policy, payment sched-ule, and additional information, and to call lead-ers for availability. Register with leaders Blake Clark or Rosemary Burbank at (303) 871-0379 or [email protected]

Peru: Huayhuash Trek May 29 – June 18, 2010$1,950Trek in the rugged and remote Cordillera Huay-huash in northern Peru, starting with a city tour in Lima, and then a bus ride north to Huaraz. There, we will do a couple of day hikes before starting out on the 14-day loop trek in the stun-ning Cordillera Huayhuash. This supported trek will take us high into the Andes, skirting peaks over 17,000 feet, visiting high lakes and hiking over passes above 14,000 feet. We will circum-navigate Nevado Yerupaja: At 21,560 feet, it is the world’s second highest tropical mountain. The trip carries a “C” classification for its high elevation and rugged trails. Not included in the trip cost are airfare to Lima, travel insurance, several meals, guide tips or personal spending money. For more information, contact Janet Far-rar at [email protected] or 303-933-3066.

Peru: Salcantay TrekJune 19 – July 4, 2010$1,725Trek the longer, more spectacular approach to Peru’s Machu Picchu on the Salcantay route. The

trip will start in Lima with a city tour. Then we will fly to Cuzco, sacred city of the Incas, where we will visit the valley towns and attend the Inti Raymi Solstice festival on June 24 at the huge fortress of Saqsaywaman. Then, a five-day sup-ported trek will take us through rainforests up to the Salcantay Umantay pass at 14,763 feet. We will see glaciers and high peaks before arriving at Aguas Calientes, then take the bus up to Ma-chu Picchu. On our second day in Machu Picchu, we will climb the peak behind it, Huayna Picchu, for a bird’s eye view of the famous Inca site. The trip carries a “C” classification for its high elevation and rugged trails. Not included in the trip cost are airfare to Lima, travel insurance, several meals, guide tips or personal spending money. For more information, contact Janet Far-rar at [email protected] or 303-933-3066.

Russia: Climb Mount ElbrusAugust 17-29, 2010 $3,097 (not including airfare to Russia)For the seventh time, the CMC’s High Altitude Mountaineering Section will lead a trip to Rus-sia and the spectacular Caucasus Mountains of southern Russia, between the Black and Caspian Seas. Mount Elbrus (18,510 feet) is one of the fabled Seven Summits and offers strenuous, but not overly difficult, climbing. Required are a ba-sic knowledge of ice axe, crampons and roped travel. The trip will use the standard southern ap-proach from the Baksan Valley and pass the ruins of the famous Priut (Hut), one of 11 that burned in 1998. Extra days are allotted for acclimatization and summit attempts. Transit is through Moscow and will include a daylong city tour at the end of the trip. The cost of the trip includes domestic air-fare within Russia, all lodging and most meals, ground transportation, guide fees in the valley, a Russian visa and permit fees, leader expenses and CMC fee. The final cost may vary slightly depending on airfare and currency exchange issues. For application requirements, please see www.cmc.org/AT. To obtain the trip itinerary and applica-tion, contact Steve Bonowski at [email protected] or P.O. Box 280286, Lakewood CO 80228-0286. Trip packet is available only by regular mail. No phone calls please.

www.cmc.org/at


SPRING 2009 ORDER FORMSEND ORDER FORM AND PAYMENT TO:

Colorado Mountain Club Press, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, CO 804011-800-633-4417, ext. 103 | FAX 303-279-9690

or order online at cmc.org

BILL TO:____________________________________________________ SHIP TO: ___________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________

PHONE ____________________________ E-MAIL __________________________________________________________________________________

CMC MEMBERS: Please fill in your name, address, phone and email, Visa orMasterCard number and expiration date. Total your order, compute the tax at 7.6%, and add shipping and handling. Checks made out to The ColoradoMountain Club for the total are fine, too.

___ Best Boulder Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-4-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $10.36___ Best Colorado Springs Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-6-1 . . . . . . $10.36___ Best Denver Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-5-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $12.76___ Best Fort Collins Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-0-9 . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Colorado 14ers, ISBN 978-0-9760525-3-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $9.56___ Colorado Lake Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-1-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $19.96___ Colorado’s Quiet Winter Trails, ISBN 978-0-9760525-1-7. . . . . . . . . $17.56___ Colorado Scrambles, ISBN 0-9760525-0-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36___ Colorado Snow Climbs, ISBN 978-0-9760525-9-3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36___ Colorado Summit Hikes, ISBN 0-9724413-3-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16___ Colorado Trail, ISBN 978-0-9760525-2-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $19.96___ Colorado Trail Databook, ISBN 978-0-9760525-5-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . $7.96___ Colorado Year Round, ISBN 0-9724413-2-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16___ Essential Guide to Black Canyon, ISBN 0-9724413-4-4 . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ Essential Guide to Sand Dunes, ISBN 0-9724413-1-X. . . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ Flatiron Classics, ISBN 978-0-9799663-2-3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16

___ Guide to the Colorado Mountains, ISBN 0-9671466-0-7 . . . . . . . . $15.16 ___ Hiking Colorado’s Roadless Trails, ISBN 978-0-9760525-7-9 . . . $10.36___ Morpha: A Rain Forest Story, 0-9671466-8-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Peaceful Canyon, Golden River, ISBN 0-9671466-5-8. . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Playing for Real, ISBN 978-0-9760525-6-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $9.56___ Rocks Above the Clouds, ISBN 978-0-9760525-8-6 . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Rocky Mountain Flora, ISBN 978-0-9760525-4-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36___ Roof of the Rockies, ISBN 0-9671466-1-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $13.56___ Run the Rockies, ISBN 0-9724413-5-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $14.36___ San Juan Mountaineers, ISBN 978-0-9799663-3-0 . . . . . . . . . . . . $185.00___ Southern Rockies Vision, ISBN 0-9724413-6-0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ State of the Southern Rockies, ISBN 0-9724413-7-9 . . . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ Stettner Way, ISBN 0-9724413-0-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Trad Guide to Joshua Tree, ISBN 0-9724413-9-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $17.56___ What’s Up with Altitude, ISBN 0-9724413-8-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $10.36

DISCOUNTED BOOK PRICING FOR MEMBERS OF THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB

SHIPPING AND HANDLING$ 1 – $19.99. . . . . . . . . . . $5.00$20 – $49.99. . . . . . . . . . . $7.00$50 – $75.99. . . . . . . . . . . $9.00$76 – $99.99. . . . . . . . . . $11.00$100+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $12.00

□ VISA OR □ MASTERCARD EXPIRATION DATE: ____________

CARD NUMBER__________________________________________________________________

SIGNATURE _____________________________________________________________________

DATE ORDERED __________________

PRETAX TOTAL $__________________

ADD 7.6% TAX $__________________

SHIPPING & HANDLING $__________________

TOTAL $__________________


SPRING 2009 ORDER FORMSEND ORDER FORM AND PAYMENT TO:

Colorado Mountain Club Press, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, CO 804011-800-633-4417, ext. 103 | FAX 303-279-9690

or order online at cmc.org

BILL TO:____________________________________________________ SHIP TO: ___________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________

PHONE ____________________________ E-MAIL __________________________________________________________________________________

CMC MEMBERS: Please fill in your name, address, phone and email, Visa orMasterCard number and expiration date. Total your order, compute the tax at 7.6%, and add shipping and handling. Checks made out to The ColoradoMountain Club for the total are fine, too.

___ Best Boulder Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-4-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $10.36___ Best Colorado Springs Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-6-1 . . . . . . $10.36___ Best Denver Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-5-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $12.76___ Best Fort Collins Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-0-9 . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Colorado 14ers, ISBN 978-0-9760525-3-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $9.56___ Colorado Lake Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-1-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $19.96___ Colorado’s Quiet Winter Trails, ISBN 978-0-9760525-1-7. . . . . . . . . $17.56___ Colorado Scrambles, ISBN 0-9760525-0-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36___ Colorado Snow Climbs, ISBN 978-0-9760525-9-3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36___ Colorado Summit Hikes, ISBN 0-9724413-3-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16___ Colorado Trail, ISBN 978-0-9760525-2-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $19.96___ Colorado Trail Databook, ISBN 978-0-9760525-5-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . $7.96___ Colorado Year Round, ISBN 0-9724413-2-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16___ Essential Guide to Black Canyon, ISBN 0-9724413-4-4 . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ Essential Guide to Sand Dunes, ISBN 0-9724413-1-X. . . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ Flatiron Classics, ISBN 978-0-9799663-2-3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16

___ Guide to the Colorado Mountains, ISBN 0-9671466-0-7 . . . . . . . . $15.16 ___ Hiking Colorado’s Roadless Trails, ISBN 978-0-9760525-7-9 . . . $10.36___ Morpha: A Rain Forest Story, 0-9671466-8-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Peaceful Canyon, Golden River, ISBN 0-9671466-5-8. . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Playing for Real, ISBN 978-0-9760525-6-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $9.56___ Rocks Above the Clouds, ISBN 978-0-9760525-8-6 . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Rocky Mountain Flora, ISBN 978-0-9760525-4-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36___ Roof of the Rockies, ISBN 0-9671466-1-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $13.56___ Run the Rockies, ISBN 0-9724413-5-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $14.36___ San Juan Mountaineers, ISBN 978-0-9799663-3-0 . . . . . . . . . . . . $185.00___ Southern Rockies Vision, ISBN 0-9724413-6-0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ State of the Southern Rockies, ISBN 0-9724413-7-9 . . . . . . . . . . . $15.96___ Stettner Way, ISBN 0-9724413-0-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96___ Trad Guide to Joshua Tree, ISBN 0-9724413-9-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $17.56___ What’s Up with Altitude, ISBN 0-9724413-8-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $10.36

DISCOUNTED BOOK PRICING FOR MEMBERS OF THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB

SHIPPING AND HANDLING$ 1 – $19.99. . . . . . . . . . . $5.00$20 – $49.99. . . . . . . . . . . $7.00$50 – $75.99. . . . . . . . . . . $9.00$76 – $99.99. . . . . . . . . . $11.00$100+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $12.00

□ VISA OR □ MASTERCARD EXPIRATION DATE: ____________

CARD NUMBER__________________________________________________________________

SIGNATURE _____________________________________________________________________

DATE ORDERED __________________

PRETAX TOTAL $__________________

ADD 7.6% TAX $__________________

SHIPPING & HANDLING $__________________

TOTAL $__________________

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In these tough financial times, our monthly giving program makes it easy to support the CMC beyond your regular membership dues.

Sign up today by visiting www.cmc.org/support, or call Doug Skiba at 303.996.2752 to enroll.


Weekdays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Weekends 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. 633 South Broadway, Boulder, CO 80305 • Table Mesa Shopping Center

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Locally owned for 36 years. Gary Neptune CMC member since 1964.

Documents

Trail & Timberline, Issue 1004