No. 51, 2012 /5 6

Han Tang YuefuShuili Snake KilnBeauty SalonsSand Sculpture Festival

THE BEST BIKE ROUTESEastern Taiwan

NATURAL TREASURES BUTTERFLY MIgRATION

“PEARL IN THE MOUNTAINS”

SUN MOON LAKE

FOOD JOURNEYFlower Cuisine

The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau.Website: ht tp://taiwan. net .t w Advertisement

Welcome to Taiwan!Dear Traveler,

One thing you should know about Taiwan is that whatever you like to do most on your travels – cycling, hiking, enjoying traditional opera, butterf ly watching, even creating sand sculptures or exploring f loral cuisine – you have many high-quality options here. Another thing you should know is that wherever these are done, in the mountains or by the sea, in the big city or in the small town, our transportation system is comprehensive and is world-class, and will get you there fast, comfortably, and at budget-friendly cost.

The warmth of summer has settled over the land, so in this issue of Travel in Taiwan we spend a lot of time outdoors. In our Feature section we take you to lovely Sun Moon Lake, in the central mountains. Here you can walk or cycle shady lakeside boardwalks, cycle the loop road, hike well-marked trails, take a scenic cable-car ride, go on a breezy yacht tour, and explore the traditional cultures of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples – notably the Thao, who arrived at Sun Moon Lake before everyone else and who today still thrive.

And as always with our Feature, we offer leads on special places to stay, special foods to eat, and special souvenir items to buy. The section is capped with a round-island tour of local tourists’ favorite lakes and reservoirs.

We stay outside for some seaside sand-sculpting on the northeast coast, where during the annual Fulong Sand Sculpture Festival the competition attracts visitors in great number. It’s then south to the bucolic East Rif t Valley for long, lazy, leisurely cycle outings, the routes dotted with myriad scenic and cultural attractions. We stay in the south, but jump to the island’s west side, to witness a remarkable natural phenomenon: the annual migration of purple crow butterf lies.

We do spend some time indoors as well in this issue, of course – watching a riveting Han Tang Yuefu performance combining ancient Chinese music and opera, along with sampling tasty f lower cuisine in rustic Puli Township and visiting the unique Shuili Snake Kiln heritage complex in Shuili Township.

We also suggest some relaxing hair and manicure care, visiting upscale Taipei beauty salons where service and prices are friendly, and soothing head and shoulder massages are part of the package.

Enjoy your time here with us.

David W. J. HsiehDirector General

Tourism Bureau, MOTC, R.O.C.

台 灣 觀 光 雙 月 刊

Travel in Taiwan BimonthlyMay/June, 2012 Tourism Bureau, MOTCFirst published in Jan./Feb., 2004ISSN: 18177964 GPN: 2009305475 Price: NT$200www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm

Copyright © 2012 Tourism Bureau. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.

PUBLISHER David W. J. HsiehEdItIng ConSULtant Wayne Hsi-Lin LiuPUBLISHIng oRganIzatIonTaiwan Tourism Bureau, Ministry ofTransportation and CommunicationsContaCtInternational Division, Taiwan Tourism Bureau Add: 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei, 10694, TaiwanTel: 886-2-2717-3737 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.twWebsite: http://taiwan.net.tw

CONTENTS May ~ June 2012

10

Where you can pick up a copy of Travel in Taiwan abroadOffices of the Tourism Bureau in Tokyo, Osaka, Seoul, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Frankfurt; Taiwan Representative Offices; Overseas Offices of the Ministry of Economic Affairs; Overseas Offices of the Central News Agency; onboard China Airlines, EVA Air and other selected international airways; selected travel agencies in Asia, North America, and Europe; and other organizations

onLineRead the online version of Travel in Taiwan at www.zinio.com . Log in and search for "Travel in Taiwan." Or visit www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm

in TaiWanTourism Bureau Visitor Center; Tourism Bureau; Taiwan Visitors Association; foreign representative offices in Taiwan, Tourism Bureau service counters at Taiwan Taoyuan Int’l Airport and Kaohsiung Int’l Airport, major tourist hotels; Taipei World Trade Center; VIP lounges of international airlines; major tourist spots in Taipei; visitor centers of cities and counties around Taiwan; offices of national scenic area administrations; public libraries

Sun Moon Lake, one of the most popular scenic areas in Taiwan (Photo by Lin Mei-ru)

This magazine is printed on FSC certified paper. Any product with the FSC logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

32PRodUCER Vision Int

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addRESS Rm. 5, 10F, 2 Fuxing N. Rd., Taipei, 104 Taiwan tel: 886-2-2711-5403 Fax: 886-2-2721-2790

E-mail: vision@tit.com.twgEnERaL ManagER Wendy L. C. Yen dEPUty gEnERaL ManagER Frank K. YenEdItoR In CHIEf Johannes Twellmann EngLISH EdItoRS Rick Charette, Richard Saunders dIRECtoR of PLannIng & EdItIng dEPt Joe LeeManagIng EdItoR Sunny Su EdItoRS Ming-Jing Yin, Vivian Liu, Gemma Cheng, April SuContRIBUtoRS Rick Charette, Owain Mckimm, Mark Caltonhill, Steven Crook, Amanda Hsiao, Kurt WeidnerPHotogRaPHERS Sunny Su, Maggie Song, Ivy Chen aRt dIRECtoR Sting Chen dESIgnERS Ivy Chen, Maggie Song, Eve Chiang, Kirk ChengadMInIStRatIvE dEPt Hui-chun Tsai, Nai-jen Liu, Xiou Mieng Jiang advERtISIng HotLInE 886-2-2721-5412

MagazInE IS SoLd at:1. Wu-Nan Culture Plaza, 6, Zhongshan Rd., Central Dist.,

Taichung City 40043 886-4-2226-0330 http://www.wunanbooks.com.tw/

2. National Bookstore, 1F., No.209, Songjiang Rd., Zhongshan Dist., Taipei City 10485 886-2-2518-0207 http://www.govbooks.com.tw/

Travel in Taiwan 3

48

2840

FeSTival40 Sensational Sand Art

— Amazing Sculptures Grace Fulong Beach Once a Year

naTUral TreaSUreS48 On the Trail of the Purple Crow

— Butterflying in Southern Taiwan

FOOD JOUrneY58 Feasting on Flowers

— Sampling Innovative Floral Delicacies

enJOYMenT55 Finding Beauty in Taiwan

— Beauty Salons that Help You Become Prettier

arT52 Dreamlike and Mesmerizing — The Han Tang Yuefu Ensemble

Combines Ancient Music and Opera

feaTure10 Sun Moon Lake — Main How to Do Sun Moon Lake – Bus, Boat, Bike, Cable Car, Foot = Joy — Stay Above Emerald Waters – Sun Moon Lake Hotels that Match the Area’s Beauty — Eat Unbeatable Meal Combos – Great Scenery & Great Food — Buy The Sun Moon Lake Character, in Take-Home Form

22 Indigenous Culture — Living in Paradise – The Thao Tribe of Sun Moon Lake

24 Scenic Spots — Scenic Lakes and Reservoirs – Destinations for Weekend Outings

1 Publisher’s Note 6 News & Events around Taiwan 7 Report

8 Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings44 Festivals and Events45 What Is This?

THe BeST BiKe rOUTeS32 Traversing the Fault Line — Cycling in the East Rift Valley

TOUriSM4 Interview — New Director-General of the Tourism

Bureau, David W. J. Hsieh

TOUriSM FaCTOrieS28 The Shuili Snake Kiln

— Firing Your Love for Traditional Ceramics

TOURISM

Travel in Taiwan 4

Travel in Taiwan: Do you plan to maintain the bureau’s existing course, or set out on new headings?

Director General Hsieh: We are charting many new initiatives. In recent years the central government has placed greater emphasis on promoting Taiwan tourism and building up Taiwan’s brand image. The Tourism Bureau is front and center in this effort. In the coming years we will be signif icantly stepping up our overseas marketing. Our clarion call for 2012-2013 is “Taiwan – The Heart of Asia,” signif ying the centrality of Taiwan’s geographical location in terms of Asia travel, our centrality in both protecting and fostering traditional culture as well as developing “new”

culture, and the warmth and friendly hospitality of our people.

We will continue with our focus on Taiwan’s most scenic sights: the Taipei 101 tower, Taroko Gorge, the mountain sunrises of Alishan, the beach fun and eco-touring at Kenting National Park, and so on. But there are also many other lesser-known attractions that I want to promote.

Pho

tos/

Vis

ion

lnt'l

The Future of Taiwan TourismA Chat with Mr. David W. J. Hsieh, the New Director-General of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau

There is a new person at the helm of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau, Mr. David W. J. Hsieh. In his two most recent postings, the Director General was the Tourism Bureau’s Deputy Director General, and before that was Director of the Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area in southern Taiwan. Travel in Taiwan recently sat down with Mr. Hsieh to learn more about the directions in which the new helmsman plans to steer Taiwan tourism. By Rick Charette

“I want our tourism to be based on “stor y-telling.” By this I mean that ever y place, and the people of a place, has a unique stor y, and travelers love to

hear them.”

Travel in Taiwan 5

INTERVIEW

Dapeng Bay, where I was previously posted, is a prime example, a world-class eco-exploration lagoon area.

In terms of lesser-known draws, one initiative we are working on is a campaign centered on our 10 most popular small tourist towns. I want our tourism to be based on “story-tell ing.” By this I mean that every place, and the people of a place, have a unique story, and travelers love to hear them because they create a traveler-locale intimacy, quickly “humanizing” any unfamiliar place visited. We are now working with National Geographic, for example, on a promotion initiative for these towns, which have also been reported on by CNNGo.

Travel in Taiwan: Can you give us some other examples of new marketing initiatives that are being developed?

Hsieh: CNNGo has also included Sun Moon Lake in its most recent l ist of the world’s most breathtaking 10 cycling routes. Lonely Planet has placed Taiwan amongst the 10

most highly recommended countries to visit in 2012. And FOX News has

named Taipei as one of the world’s top 10 budget-travel

destinations for 2012. Building on this

increasing awareness of what Taiwan has to offer, we are working on combination trips to entice tourists

from faraway lands to come explore Asia. For

example, we are working with Thailand’s tourism

authority on special Taiwan/Thailand packages, and may seek to

work with mainland China and other countries.

We are also working on special packages focused on the use of our friendly and convenient

local public-transport system, eliminating the stress of car rental and navigating about on your own. For example, our High Speed Rail system is world-class, and whisks you north to south in just 90 minutes.

Westerners enjoy eco-touring, and we will be systematically developing our “green tourism.” This means introducing such novel experiences as tours to our beautiful, pristine, and eco-unique offshore islands, but goes much further than this, meaning the act of travel itself will also be green.

Europe and North America are very large markets, with Europe cut up into many small countries, so we must be selective in our marketing, targeting carefully. One thing we will do is target the 10 largest travel f irms in different markets, focusing our resources more precisely. Another way we will precision-focus is to make a connection between Taiwan’s iconic images and iconic images of selected countries around the world, thus creating the strongest possible positive associations. Examples include placing large Taiwan images in New York’s Times Square; putting Taiwan promotions on London’s famous cabs; and placing Taiwan ads right behind home plate in markets where well-known Taiwan athletes play pro baseball, such as Los Angeles. We’ ll also build on the fame of sports personalities from Taiwan, such as Yani Tseng, the No. 1 female golfer in the world, and former New York Yankees pitcher Wang Chien-ming, inviting them to act as spokespersons in overseas promotions.

Travel in Taiwan: We know you’re an avid golfer. Anything special going on in the golf area?

Hsieh: Indeed there is. We’re setting up special golf-centered packages. Taiwan is very mountainous, making for wonderful scenery when out on the links, and our club-resort facilities are f irst-rate. We’re mainly targeting golfers from around the Asian area, because of their proximity, but I promise golfers from North America, Europe, and elsewhere that time spent on Taiwan tours, with golf the main focus, will be time well spent indeed.

6

Bicycling

According to a list on the

website CNNGO, the cycling

route around Sun Moon Lake

in central Taiwan is among

the world’s most breathtaking.

It takes about three hours

to circle the lake by bicycle,

during which cyclists enjoy

charming mountain-and-lake

scenery, stops at temples, and

local indigenous cultures.

http://tinyurl.com/cnngo-sml

Sun Moon Lake among Most Breathtaking Cycling Routes

TELL US WHAT YOU THINK!We, the producers of Travel in Taiwan, wish to improve our magazine with each issue and give you

the best possible help when planning – or carrying out – your next trip to Taiwan. Tell us what you

think by filling out our short online questionnaire at www.tit.com.tw/survey/travelintaiwan.html.

Senders of the first 10 completed questionnaires for each issue will receive three free issues of Travel

in Taiwan. Thank you in advance for your feedback.

After a gap of almost eight years,

Garuda Indonesia has announced

that it will resume flights to Taiwan

this May. The airline, Indonesia’s

flag carrier, will offer one round-trip

flight per day between Jakarta

and Taipei, starting May 25. China

Airlines and EVA Airways of Taiwan

also provide daily round-trip flights

between Taipei and Jakarta.

Garuda Indonesia to Resume Flights to Taiwan

Airlines

Airlines

Tourism

In a recent popular vote for Taiwan's top 10 small towns, Daxi Township in Taoyuan

County garnered the most votes, followed by Sanyi Township in Miaoli County and Anping

District in Tainan City. People voted via the Internet and by sending postcards from the

end of January to early March. Hundreds of thousands of votes were cast. The popular

vote accounted for 20 percent of the final results, with 80 percent based on evaluations by

experts. For all results, visit 2012town.gvm.com.tw (Chinese).

Taiwan’s 10 Favorite Small Towns Named

EWS & EVENTS AROUND TAIWAN

It looks like jelly. Could it be some sort of sweet dessert, or an icy treat? Or is it a piece of fine art – a type of pre-cious stone, maybe? Can you tell what it is?

Hint: It doesn’t really smell that pleasant…. Find the answer on page 45.

There is certainly no shortage of temples dedicated to the goddess Mazu around Taiwan, but this

temple truly stands out. Located in Changhua Coastal Industrial Park in central Taiwan, the main

building material at Husheng Temple is glass. The 1,000-square-meter temple, a copy of the historic

Tianhou Temple in Changhua County's Lugang Township, was built by Taiwan Mirror Glass Enterprise

Co. at a cost of NT$70 million. More than 70,000 pieces of glass from 132 glass makers and other

related manufacturers around the country went into the construction of the temple, which is not just

a place for worship but also stands as a symbol for the local glass industry. In the daytime, the sun

floods the temple with natural light and in the evening it is beautifully illuminated with modern LED

lighting – both sights truly impressive.

Mazu Temple Made of Glass in ChanghuaCulture

WHAT IS THIS?

Travel in Taiwan

REPORT

Travel in Taiwan 7

Who Was This Year’s Best?Taipei College Wins the National College Creative Song Jiang Battle Array Competition

In order to f ind out more about the winning college, Travel in Taiwan visited the school’s Neihu campus

and talked to some key members of its battle-array troupe, while others rolled by on unicycles and practiced backf lips, somersaults, pyramid-building, spinning plates on sticks, juggling, and other skills.

Teacher Chen Ju-wen started off with a history lesson. “‘Song Jiang’ was the main character in the classical Chinese novel Water Margin. He formed his men into intricate formations emphasizing quick transformation to different f ighting techniques. Today’s battle-array performers wield old-style weapons, rattan shields, etc., and some dress as characters from the novel (108 in total). The battle-array tradition started in the old days with martial-arts teams, centered on temples, that served as militia. Isolated Neimen, for example, was under constant threat of aborigine and bandit attack.

“The competition is an elimination contest that goes on many days. I started our troupe a number of years ago to do

our part in preserving Taiwan’s folk-art traditions, which are struggling in the modern world, and help our students to better grasp Taiwan’s roots and character. We’ve also mixed in traditional Taiwan music styles and other elements. Teams must strike a balance between battle-array traditions and innovative creativity; in the past our weakness was not fully understanding performance traditions and taboos, so we’ve brought in a master from Kaohsiung, this art form’s center in Taiwan, to teach us.”

Ku Sheng-chieh is the tou qi or “head f lag,” whose intricate f lag movements direct the numerous battle-array squads. This year ’s array had 110 members in total (36 is standard today), including musicians who, unusually, joined in the dancing. The tou qi is the Song Jiang character, i.e. the general. “I think our advantage over the other troupes,” Ku says, “was that we are a school of traditional performing arts, which means we have a foundation in martial arts upon which we can add many more creative elements such as traditional opera, acrobatics, tumbling, juggling, and as you can see, even unicycling and triangular rope skipping.”

National Taiwan College of Performing Arts, third-best in last year's competition, won for the f irst time this year, receiving NT$500,000 in prize money, while previous winner University of Tainan came in second and Lunghwa University of Science and Technology f inished in third place.

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Chen Ju-wen 陳儒文

Ku Sheng-chieh 古盛傑

National College Creative 全國大專院校創意宋江陣

Song Jiang Battle Array National Taiwan College 國立臺灣戲曲學院 of Performing Arts Neimen District 內門區

Song Jiang Battle Array 宋江陣

tou qi 頭旗

Water Margin 水滸傳

One of the most colorful and thrilling spectacles from among Taiwan’s many different colorful and thrilling temple-festival spectacles is the Song Jiang Battle Array. Each spring the popular and hotly-contested “National College Creative Song Jiang Battle Array” competition is staged in Kaohsiung’s Neimen District, and this year National Taiwan College of Performing Arts (Taipei) marched away with the crown. By Rick Charette

This play was inspired by the Spanish documentary

Yo Soy Asi, which describes the private lives of

a group of elderly performers in a transvestite

cabaret in Barcelona on the eve of its closing.

The performance blurs the lines between male

and female, reality and illusion, past and present,

dealing with self-identification and self-realization

through dance, music, drama, and cabaret.

les ballets C de la B: Gardenia比利時當代舞團 梔子花

National Theater

May 11~ 13

Taiwan has a diverse cultural scene, with art venues ranging from international-caliber concert halls and theaters to makeshift stages on temple plazas. Among Taiwan’s museums is the world-famous National Palace Museum as well as many smaller museums dedicated to different art forms and aspects of Taiwanese culture. Here is a brief selection of upcoming happenings. For more information, please visit the websites of the listed venues.

oncerts,

Exhibitions, and

Happenings

Passing on a Lasting Legacy: Paintings by Lin Yu-shan 典範傳移 林玉山繪畫藝術特展

National Taiwan Museum of Fine ArtsMarch 24 ~ July 1

This exhibition features a total of 46 gouache paintings and ink paintings,

along with 25 plein air paintings, by Taiwanese artist Lin Yu-shan (1907

~ 2004). The works on display were done using sketching, watercolor, and

ink-color techniques, and cover a wide variety

of subjects, including flowers and plants,

birds, animals, and scenery. Lin Yu-shan's art

was nurtured by various cultural and artistic

traditions, ranging from traditional Chinese folk

painting, classical Japanese painting, and the

classical painting of the Song Dynasty to the ink

paintings of the Chinese Cultural Renaissance

Movement in post-war Taiwan.

During his time in power, which lasted only

about a decade, Ming dynasty emperor Xuande

(posthumous temple name Xuanzong; 1399 ~

1435) appointed virtuous and capable officials,

establishing what historians have called a

golden era of stable development and making

him a celebrated ruler for his upholding and

consolidation of the Ming court. The emperor

demonstrated considerable talent in the arts,

making him stand out even more conspicuously

among the rulers of Chinese history. He was quite fond of calligraphy,

and also a gifted painter. In his paintings, Xuanzong tended to choose

bird-and-flower, animal, and monochrome-ink subjects with symbolic and

allegorical double meaning.

From the Brush of Xuande: Painting and Calligraphy of the Ming Emperor Xuanzong 宣德宸翰—明宣宗書畫展

National Palace MuseumApril 1 ~ June 25

Photos by 28 contemporary Taiwanese photographers are shown in this

exhibition. The photographers explore the relationship between the reality

and the imaginary in crafted images. The exhibition offers a great way to

look at Taiwan through the

eyes of local photographers;

street scenes, portraits of local

people, public art, landscapes,

architecture, and nature are

explored in what are mostly

b/w shots. Through these

photos the spectator can get

a feel for life in Taiwan while

learning about trends in

modern photography.

To Gaze and to Look Beyond: Eyes of Formosa 凝視 對望 福爾摩莎之眼攝影展

National Museum of HistoryApril 21 ~ May 31

Travel in Taiwan 8

National Concert Hall

After the Evolving Beyond the Past exhibition in 2010, the

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts is this year once again

jointly organizing this exhibition with the Executive

Yuan’s Council of Indigenous Peoples and the College of

the Arts at National Dong Hwa University. It showcases

over 80 works by 42 indigenous artists from around

Taiwan. The works are divided into five categories, based

on content and theme. Of particular interest is the “Torch-

passing Achievement” category, which features the

well-known and highly accomplished artists Haku, from

the Puyuma Tribe, and Pairang Pavavaljung, from the

Paiwan Tribe.

Naruwan – Life Finds a Way: Taiwan Indigenous Artists Exhibition 2012那路很會彎—第三屆原住民藝術工作者駐村計畫聯展

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts

March 17 ~ May 27

Taipei

Taipei Zhongshan Hall （台北中山堂）

Add: 98, Yanping S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市延平南路 9 8 號 )

Tel: (02) 2381-3137www.csh.taipei.gov.twNearest MRT Station: Ximen

Taipei International Convention Center （台北國際會議中心）

Add: 1, Xinyi Rd., Sec.5, Taipei City( 台北市信義路五段 1 號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200, ext. 3517, 3518 www.ticc.com.twNearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall （國立中正紀念堂）

Add: 21 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市中山南路 21 號 )　　

Tel: (02) 2343-1100~3www.cksmh.gov.twNearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Concert Hall （國家音樂聽）National Theater （國家戲劇院）

Add: 21-1 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市中山南路 21-1 號 )

Tel: (02) 3393-9888www.ntch.edu.twNearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Museum of History （國立歷史博物館）

Add: 49 Nanhai Rd., Taipei City( 台北市南海路 4 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2361-0270www.nmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Palace Museum （國立故宮博物院）

Add: 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City( 台北市至善路 2 段 2 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2881-2021www.npm.gov.twNearest MRT Station: Shilin

National Taiwan Museum （國立臺灣博物館）

Add: 2 Xiangyang Rd., Taipei City( 台北市襄陽路二號 )

Tel: (02) 2382-2566www.ntm.gov.twNearest MRT Station: NTU Hospital

Novel Hall （新舞臺）

Add: 3 Songshou Rd., Taipei City( 台北市松壽路 3 號 )

Tel: (02) 2722-4302www.novelhall.org.twNearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall （國立國父紀念館）

Add: 505 Ren-ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City( 台北市仁愛路四段 5 0 5 號 )

Tel: (02) 2758-8008www.yatsen.gov.tw/englishNearest MRT Station: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Taipei Arena （台北小巨蛋）

Add: 2 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City( 台北市南京東路 4 段 2 號 )

Tel: (02) 2577-3500www.taipeiarena.com.twNearest MRT Station: Nanjing E. Rd.

Taipei Fine Arts Museum （台北市立美術館）

Add: 181 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City( 台北市中山北路 3 段 181 號 )

Tel: (02) 2595-7656www.tfam.museum Nearest MRT Station: Yuanshan

Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei （台北當代藝術館）

Add: 39 Chang-an W. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市長安西路 39 號 )

Tel: (02) 2552-3720www.mocataipei.org.twNearest MRT Station: Zhongshan

National Taiwan Science Education Center （台灣科學教育館）

Add: 189 Shishang Rd., Taipei City (台北市士商路 189號 )Tel: (02) 6610-1234www.ntsec.gov.twNearest MRT Station: Shilin

National Taiwan University Sports Center （台大綜合體育館）

Add: 1, Sec. 4, Roosevelt Rd., Taipei City (臺北市羅斯福路四段一號 )Tel: (02) 3366-5959ntusportscenter.ntu.edu.tw

TaichungTaichung Zhongshan Hall （台中中山堂）

Add: 98 Xueshi Rd., Taichung City( 台中市學士路 9 8 號 )

Tel: (04) 2230-3100www.tccgc.gov.tw

National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts （國立台灣美術館）

Add: 2 Wuquan W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taichung City( 台中市五權西路一段 2 號 )

Tel: (04) 2372-3552www.ntmofa.gov.tw

TainanTainan City Cultural Center （台南市立文化中心）

Add: 332 Zhonghua E. Rd., Sec. 3, Tainan City( 台南市中華東路 3 段 332 號 )

Tel: (06) 269-2864www.tmcc.gov.tw

KaohsiungKaohsiung City Chungcheng Cultural Center （高雄市立中正文化中心）

Add: 67 Wufu 1st Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市五福一路 67 號 )

Tel: (07) 222-5136 ext. 8908, 8909, 8910www.khcc.gov.tw (Chinese only)Nearest KMRT Station: Cultural Center

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts （高雄市立美術館）

Add: 80 Meishuguan Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市美術館路 8 0 號 )

Tel: (07) 555-0331www.kmfa.gov.tw Nearest KMRT Station: Aozihdi Station

Kaohsiung Museum of History（高雄市立歷史博物館）

Add: 272 Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市中正四路 27 2 號 )

Tel: (07) 531-2560http://163.32.121.205/Nearest KMRT Station: City Council

Since their emergence 20 years ago, during a time when

live-rock bands in Taiwan were still a novelty, Wu Bai

and his band China Blue have played a pioneering role in

the development of the local rock-music scene. Though

successful recording artists, Wu Bai and China Blue are

best known for their dynamic and uplifting live concerts.

Amazingly, the line-up of the band hasn’t changed over the

last two decades and, if anything, the bond between the

artists has become stronger over

the years. To celebrate their 20th

anniversary playing together

and to thank their many fans

around the world, the musicians

are launching a world tour June

16 in Taipei, then heading to

Singapore, mainland China, Los

Angeles, and other destinations.

June 16

Wu Bai and China Blue World Tour Concert 伍佰& China Blue 20 週年大感謝世界巡迴演唱會

Taipei Arena

Venues

Travel in Taiwan 9

Bus, Boat, Bike, Cable Car, Foot = Joy

Travel in Taiwan 10Travel in Taiwan 10

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 10

The Sun Moon Lake resort area has come a long, long way since the great 921 Earth-quake of 1999 and the establishment of a national scenic area (www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw) as a focus for recovery and international-grade development. Your travel modes in your search for relaxation and adventure are now many – bus, boat, cable car, bike, foot, and of course private car and taxi if you so desire – and are best en-joyed in combination, ensuring maximum fun and allowing you to take full advantage of the wide range of facilities and attractions. By Rick Charette

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Travel in Taiwan 11

Ita Thao Pier, Sun Moon Lake

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SUN MOON LAKE

Travel in Taiwan 11

What and Where Is Sun Moon Lake?

In Taiwan’s central mountains, this is Taiwan’s largest freshwater lake, located in a basin surrounded by peaks. Its beauty has given rise to such names as “Pearl in the Mountains,” “Honeymoon Lake,” and “Lovers’ Lake.” It has also been called the “Heart of Taiwan,” not for romantic reasons, but for its role as a major hydropower generator. When the Japanese ruled Taiwan (1895-1945) they kick-started Taiwan’s modern industrial development by blocking the basin’s water exit with a dam and building a large power plant, raising the water level signif icantly, almost drowning today’s Lalu “Island,” the peak of what was then a sacred high hill around which the lake’s Thao indigenous people l ived and on which were sacred burial sites. Today’s Ita Thao Village is where the people of the settlement ended up.

How to Do the Lake

On my most recent trip I combined all modes of movement you see in this article’s title, and had my best Sun Moon Lake trip yet. I recommend visiting in spring and autumn, when local kids are in school and temperatures are more moderate; summer biking and hiking can be tough indeed on folks from cooler lands. I also recommend weekday visits, when the area is much, much quieter.

Bus Touring

So let’s head out. I hopped off my Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus in front of the attractive Visitor Information Center in Shuishe Village (see Getting There section below). Shuishe, on the north side, is the largest lake settlement. Go into the center to get all the help you need, in English. The well-paved

two-lane road (about 33 km) circling the lake is regularly plied by around-the-lake tour buses which stop at/near most major attractions, including the popular cable-car “ropeway” to Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village and to a number of hiking-route trailheads. The staff at the visitor center will give you all particulars. Get on a bus at the center, get off at any stop, stay however long you like, and hop on the next arriving bus. Service is 9 to 6; a one-day unlimited ticket is just NT$80; bicycles are allowed on board.

Two stops this service is especially useful for accessing is Xuanzang Temple and Ci’en Pagoda, located on a hilly peninsula. The temple is at roadside, and you can reach the pagoda atop the peninsula via Qinglong Mountain Trail. At the 2.5 km trail’s bottom end, by the lake, is Xuanguang Temple, where there’s a tour-boat wharf.

Xuanzang Temple – Built in Tang Dynasty style, featuring an unusually calm and pretty white exterior and attractive landscaped grounds, this temple enshrines a parietal-bone relic of Tang Dynasty Buddhist monk Xuanzang, of “Journey to the West” fame, along with a golden statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha.

Ci’en Pagoda – This soaring structure, completed in 1971, was built by Chiang Kai-shek – cut off from his China homeland – in memory of his mother. Sun Moon Lake was one of his favorite getaway spots; he had a villa on Hanbi Peninsula by Shuishe Village, originally built for Japanese off icials and royalty, where the giant The Wen Wan Resort now stands. Climb the pagoda for superb views, and bang the great drum at top for good luck.

Enjoying a day out at Sun Moon Lake Boardwalk near Chaowu Pier

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Bicycling

Bicycles can be rented at a number of spots, including on the lake’s loop road in Shuishe and Ita Thao and across this road near Xiangshan Visitor Center. However, I suggest lakeside boardwalk biking, free of motor-vehicle traff ic. You can now do easy-grade riding all the way (following the lake shore anti-clockwise) from Wenwu Temple to near the peninsula on which Ci’en Pagoda stands, sometimes riding above the lake, passing the scenic new “Wedding Photo Bridge” and Xiangshan Visitor Center.

Wenwu Temple – This monumental temple, built in China’s Northern Dynasty style (386~581 AD), was severely damaged in the 921 Earthquake but, if anything, today surpasses its former glory. Its distinctive imperial-yellow glazed-tile roof ing draws the eye almost throughout all boat tours.

Xiangshan Visitor Center – Visit this center, a dramatic work of architectural art, as early in your trip as possible to get the fullest benef it from the great range of background information on the area. There are f irst-rate information displays, f ilms, and a new 3D f ilm, all with English subtitles. The scenery from the simple-yet-chic café, with outdoor seating, is wonderful.

Xiangshan Visitor Center

Wenwu Temple

Shuishe Pier

Ita Thao Pier

Ita Thao Village

Formosan Aboriginal

Culture Village

The Richforest

Sun Moon Lake

“Wedding Photo Bridge”

Lake view from Sun Moon Lake Hotel

Wenwu Temple

Shuishe Visitor Center Chaowu Pier

Shuishe VillageSun Moon Lake Hotel

Wedding Photo Bridge

Hanbi PeninsulaMeihe Garden

The Lalu The Wen Wan Resort

Lalu Island

Xuanzang Temple

Ci’en Pagoda

Xuanguang TempleXuanguang Pier

to Puli

to Puli

to Ji ji

Sun Moon Lake Ropeway

SUN MOON LAKE

Travel in Taiwan 13

Yacht Touring

A yacht tour is a de rigeuer Sun Moon Lake experience. Boats launch from four points: Shuishe Pier, Ita Thao Pier, Xuanguang Pier, and Chaowu Pier (the last for group excursions). Ticket booths are right at the piers. A standard outing is a visit to Ita Thao if launching from Shuishe (and vice-versa), with a visit to Xuanguang Temple and a swing around Lalu Island. Passengers are entertained with broadcast info and stories, in Chinese. Service is 8:50 a.m. to 5 p.m.; bicycles can be brought on board.

Shuishe Pier / Meihe Garden – The pier and adjacent boardwalk are a popular night-time attraction, enhanced with pretty lighting and featuring regular dancing-fountain shows with music. Boardwalk shops offer alfresco seating. Above one end of the pier is Meihe Garden, a calm European-style landscaped oasis with dark-wood latticework and low stone walls. It too is l it up at night, adding to the waterfront’s air of romance. Located at the foot of long-off-l imits Hanbi Peninsula, this was once the site of a military-police outpost protecting Chiang Kai-shek’s villa.

Ita Thao Village – This is the main Thao-tribe settlement. Today it is bursting with tourist-oriented gif t outlets, eateries, and places to stay. Regular Thao-theme entertainment is offered into the evening at the attractive pier area, with its sparkling yacht-shaped visitor center.

Xuanguang Temple – This small temple enshrines a statue of Master Xuanzang. Almost as famous as the temple is the rustic “Grandma’s Tea Eggs” stand just off the pier, in place over 50 years, grandma still working. I, a stif led tea-egg af icionado with high cholesterol counts, cheat with a vengeance here each visit. The line-ups don’t l ie.

Sun Moon Lake Cruise Yachts

Ci’en Pagoda

Tea Eggs

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Cable-Car Soaring

The immensely popular Sun Moon Lake Ropeway (www.ropeway.com.tw), a short boardwalk stroll from Ita Thao Village (the surround-lake bus also stops nearby), provides a picturesque aerial ride between Sun Moon Lake and Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, going over two mountain passes. A combined cable-car and cultural-village ticket brings a signif icant discount.

Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village (www.nine.com.tw) – This large theme park is spread over a gently sloping mountain valley. The informative Aboriginal Villages section celebrates Taiwan’s indigenous peoples with scores of architectural replicas, song-and-dance shows, and demos of traditional cooking methods, weaving, pestle music, and more. There’s also a games/rides area and landscaped European Garden area.

Getting There, Getting Back – How I Did It

If you just want to sit back and let somebody else do all the practical “do-ing” for you, it’s easy. Visit the Taiwan Tour Bus website (www.taiwantourbus.com.tw) for information on English-language Sun Moon Lake outings provided by local tour agencies. These start from central Taiwan locations; for

Taipei launches, check with the Taipei-based f irms listed on the website (Edison Tours, South East Travel Service, etc.).

If you prefer self-travel and don’t have a vehicle, it’s also easy. On this trip I took a High Speed Rail train from Taipei to Taichung Station, went to the ground-level bus station, and caught a Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus (www.taiwantrip.com.tw) to Sun Moon Lake. The ticket counter is right by the door, and the bus, destination marked in English on the front, stops right outside the door. If you encounter any language trouble, the information counter on the HSR level can help. The bus stops at the Visitor Information Center in Shuishe Village. On your return trip, hop on the bus at this same stop.

Sun Moon Lake RopewayAt Xiangshan Visitor Center

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Ci'en Pagoda 慈恩塔

Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village 九族文化村

Grandma's Tea Eggs 阿婆茶葉蛋

Hanbi Peninsula 涵碧半島

Ita Thao Village/Pier 伊達邵村/碼頭

Lalu Island 拉魯島

Meihe Garden 梅荷園

Qinglong Mountain Trail 青龍山步道

Shuishe Village/Pier 水社村/碼頭

Wenwu Temple 文武廟

Xiangshan Visitor Center. 向山遊客服務中心

Xuanguang Temple 玄光寺

Xuanzang Temple 玄奘寺

Sun Moon Lake Hotels that Match the Area’s BeautyToday, one of the first and strongest impressions you get of Sun Moon Lake as you emerge from the surrounding hills to find the lake laid out before you is of young, swanky hotels along the shore. This is a world away from the impressions I went away with after my first visit about 20 years back, when most “Stay” facilities seemed to be small, family-run operations, most dimly lit, a very few of which Mi-chelin, on its most generous of days, might grant two stars. By Rick Charette

Emerald WatersAbove

Sun Moon Lake Hotel

The Wen Wan Resor t The Richforest The Richforest

Travel in Taiwan 16

FEATURE

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I’ve since visited the area somewhere around 15 times, and since the establishment of the Sun Moon

Lake National Scenic Area 12 years ago each trip has brought more pleasant surprises in terms of accommodation options, and another obvious leap in collective quality. Here are a few recommendations, each experienced within the past few years.

Let’s go right to the top, to The Wen Wan Resort. This is one of the twin stars of the Hanbi Peninsula, just a few minutes on foot from Shuishe Village, along with the chic, low-lying wood-theme The Lalu resort. A popular boardwalk is at the peninsula’s base, The Lalu is just above, and towering above all else, behind, is The Wen Wan, an impossible-to-miss monolith with a giant sail-design structure attached to one side that makes it look like a tall ship plying the lake’s waters.

The hotel has been created as a self-contained island of luxury, satisf ying all customers’ pleasure needs. Though you’ ll be taken anywhere in the area you like, from temple to trailhead, management reports that the great majority of guests stay put, soaking up the resort’s many spoiling perks while soaking up the stunning lake views, the beauty heightened by the hotel’s lof ty height.

Though the building is very large, there’s but 92 rooms, meaning a great deal of space is given over to other amenities. This is Sun Moon Lake’s only hot-spring resort, the hotel pinpointing and tapping a source deep underground. A hot soak in the alfresco roof top Hot Spring Swimming Pool complex (with Taiwan’s f irst pool bar) is beyond soothing. Rooms can be roughly divided as South Pacif ic and Japanese in theme; my favorite is the Junior Suite, heavy in light bamboo, the only rooms with windows on two sides, with a distinct cottage-like ambiance. (Prices start at NT$20,000.)

Across the lake on the south shore, on one side of Ita Thao Village, is The Richforest hotel. Right on the water, it looks like a large timber-built ski lodge has been air-l if ted from the Rocky Mountains and plunked down here. That was in fact the original idea: the builders brought in all the timber from North America, along with a specialist 50-man crew. I suggest a lakeside room on the main (lobby) level, for you’ ll be just above the water, you’ ll feel the lapping is at your balcony’s l ip, and the gentle, rhythmic sound will

be your night’s lullaby. A second building (Lealea Garden Hotels Moon) has just been opened, a few steps away inland, featuring polished stone, ceramic work, and attractive indigenous-theme decorative f lourishes inside and out. (Prices start at NT$6,600.)

What I l ike best about the Sun Moon Lake Hotel is its comparative isolation. It’s on the large inlet that def ines the backside of Hanbi Peninsula, and looks at “downtown” Shuishe Village from behind. The lake’s heavy tour-boat

traff ic is unseen. Instead, small f ishing craf t and the lake’s famed f loating raf t gardens are moored all about. There is direct access to the just-offshore boardwalk that runs from Shuishe past the lake’s dam, and the hotel provides free bikes. Fun beer and BBQ parties are held in the shore-side courtyard in summer, there’s a top-f light games arcade for kids and wannabe kids (air hockey!), and high up at the hotel’s top is, no exaggeration, the most beautiful meeting room I’ve ever been in, with f loor-to-ceil ing windows on three sides that create a work of dramatically picturesque landscape art. (Prices start at NT$7,000.)

THE WEN WAN RESORT (日月行館國際觀光酒店)Add: 139 Zhongxing Rd., Shuishe Village, Yuchi Township, Nantou County (南投縣魚池鄉水社村中興路139號)Tel: (049) 285-6677Website: www.thewenwan.com

THE RICHFOREST (儷山林哲園會館)Add: 31 Shuixiu St., Riyue (Ita Thao) Village, Yuchi Township, Nantou County (南投縣魚池鄉日月村水秀街31號)Tel: (049) 285-0000Website: www.smlclub.com.tw

SUN MOON LAKE HOTEL (日月潭大飯店)Add: 419 Zhongshan Rd., Shuishe Village, Yuchi Township, Nantou County (南投縣魚池鄉水社村中山路419號)Tel: (49) 285-5533Website: www.smlh.com.tw/home/index.php

A hot soak in the al f resco rooftop Hot Spring Swimming Pool complex is beyond soothing The Wen Wan Resor t

SUN MOON LAKE

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Travel in Taiwan 18

EAT

The iconic item sourced from the lake is the President’s f ish (topmouth culter), so-called because President

Chiang Kai-shek had a taste for it; from the mountain it is mountain boar, a classic indigenous delicacy. These are highlight dishes on many local menus.

Dining options come in all price ranges, and adding extra zest to your meals is the fact so many venues have clear, invigorating views of the lake.

Let’s start with my best for breakfast. My choice: Kitchen 139 at the upscale The Wen Wan Resort (www.thewenwan.com). Five-star kitchen talent plus the f ive-star bird’s-eye lake panorama makes an unbeatable combination. I recommend the set menu’s eggs Benedict and omelet options.

My best for lunch: Yi Long Ge Wan, at No. 101 on Ita Thao Village’s busy tourist-shopping street, Yiyong Street. This is a native-run, open-faced restaurant of simple décor that offers hearty native-theme fare “with Taiwanese characteristics” at modest prices. Highlights are the boar (listed as “roast pork”), Reeve’s munt jac (“deer”), bamboo partridge (“fried wild chicken”), and lake f ishes and shrimp.

My best for a mid-af ternoon snack: the two wooden canteen-style kiosks sell ing native fare in Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village. Near the Tsou and Thao-tribe display area, each offers shady, breezy, forest-edge picnic-

table eating. Enjoy indigenous classics alf resco – grilled mountain boar, glutinous rice wood-f ired in bamboo tubes, roast taro-paste cakes, millet wine, and more.

My best for dinner: Sun Moon Lake Full House Resort, a restaurant/B&B run by an artist and her husband (www.fhsml.idv.tw; No. 8 Shuixiu St., Ita Thao Village). The log-theme chalet was built by the same folks who built the steps-away The Richforest hotel. This is the most happenin’ spot in sleepy night-time Ita Thao, the garden-dining area packed, l ights strung from large trees, quirky decorations all about. Dishes are centered on seasonal Taiwan fruit. My favourite: shiitake mushroom with melon.

My best for anytime sweet-tooth snacking: Dolce Luna, on the boardwalk at Shuishe Pier. The gelato here is f luff y and wonderfully tasty; the owner apprenticed overseas with an Italian master. Many f lavors are deliciously Taiwan-centric – lychee, passionfruit, mango, Taiwan berry, yang le duo (a sweet yogurt drink)… even sesame. I promise you Yum!

ENGLISH & CHINESE

President's fish 總統魚

Sun Moon Lake Full House Resort 日月潭富豪群渡假民宿

Thao tribe 邵族

Tsou tribe 鄒族

yang le duo 養樂多

Yi Long Ge Wan 伊龍閣灣

Yiyong St. 義勇街

Great Scenery & Great Food

The dining is fine at Sun Moon Lake, built on the fresh-est local ingredients just off the farm, just from the lake, and just down from the mountain. By Rick Charette

Unbeatable Meal Combos

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Please detach at the dotted line

Welcome to your home in Taipei

新光三越

新光三越

eslite

www.parktaipei .com

Notes: 1. Please include the password “DAAN” when making a reservation and present this voucher at the front desk when checking in. 2. Vouchers are not valid during the time of trade fairs at the Taipei World Trade Center and on December 31st. 3. This voucher cannot be used when making room reservations for groups and cannot be combined with other special offers. 4. This voucher cannot be transferred to others or be exchanged for cash. Park Taipei Hotel reserves the right to make amendments to this discount offer. Please contact us if you have any questions.

Present this discount voucher at the front desk of the hotel. To use this discount voucher, please use the password “DAAN” when making a room reservation at Park Taipei Hotel by fax (+886-2-5579-3889), by phone (+886-2-5579-3888), by e-mail (rsvn@parktaipei.com) or on the hotel’s website (www.parktaipei.com; key in the password under “Access code/IATA code”).

Only 3 minutes to MRT Wenhu Line’s Daan StationOnly 10 minutes to Taipei Songshan AirportPark Taipei Hotel is conveniently locatedin the heart of downtown Taipei.

A carefree place in the center of bustling TaipeiAfter taking care of business, doing shopping and traveling aroundYou’ll return to your new cozy and relaxing homeYour home in Taipei, Park Taipei Hotel Welcomes You!

Tel: (02) 5579-3888Add: 317, Sec. 1, Fuxing S. Rd., Taipei City (台北市復興南路一段317號)Website: www.parktaipei.comHow to get there: Take the MRT Wenhu Line to Daan Station. The hotel is just a few minutes by foot from the station.

The gift-buying location with the greatest “fun” factor is the narrow shopping street, Yiyong St.,

in Ita Thao, the Thao indigenous village, right off the pier on the southeast shore of the lake. Gif t shops and eateries pack both sides. Owl Workshop, at No. 94, has acquired a Taiwan-wide reputation for its clever owl-theme craf ts. The owl is sacred to the Thao, a herald of pregnancies and other good news. I especially l ike the carved owls wearing traditional Thao dress and carrying f irewood, hunting weapons, etc.

Friendly owners stand in bright-color Thao dress at street-side giving out f ree samples of their millet wine

The millet wine of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples is delicious and you can get what I consider Sun Moon Lake’s best from Ri Yue Cha Hang (Sun Moon Tea Shop), at No. 107. It’s made at a small licensed factory nearby, fronted by the quaint, rustic Millet Wine Museum (241 Zhongzheng Rd.).

Another local spot sell ing millet wine I really enjoy is Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village. The wine is made by the village itself, and sold at the indigenous-theme shops at the tribal-village entrance area by the upper cable-car station. There’s also quality-made indigenous clothing, headdresses, and other colorful items.

Also bursting at the seams with indigenous-theme goods of all description is Modeng Yuanzhumin (Modern Aborigine),

at 57 Yiyong St. As with all shops here, the friendly owners are not shy about call ing out to visitors, and stand in bright-color Thao dress at streetside giving out free samples of their millet wine.

Taiwan’s 1895-1945 Japanese colonial rulers introduced Assam tea to the area.

You can see the original, still operating, research station on the mountainside above Shuishe Village at the northwest corner of the lake. Sun Moon Lake Assam Black Tea is sold everywhere, but I bet you’ve never sampled tea in a shop in a temple overlooking a lake before, so head to the breezy teashop on giant Wenwu Temple’s second level. The most popular choice is the mild, fragrant Red Jade (TTES No. 18), an Assam variety grown only around Sun Moon Lake. As well, check out the pretty coaster sets here, featuring painted scenes of iconic area tableaux.

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Modeng Yuanzhumin 摩登原住民

Owl Workshop 貓頭鷹工廠

Ri Yue Cha Hang 日月茶行

Millet Wine Museum 小米酒博物館

Zhongzheng Rd. 中正路

The Sun Moon Lake Character, in Take-Home FormSun Moon Lake has become a tourist attraction of international repute and standard, and as you’d ex-pect, outlets selling take-home gifts now always seem close at hand. Here, we concentrate on souvenir ideas that best capture the Sun Moon Lake character. By Rick Charette

Owl Workshop

Assam Black Tea

Travel in Taiwan 20

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Nanjing E.Rd. Sec. 3

Changan E.Rd. Sec. 2

Ba De Rd. sec. 2

Zhongxiao E.Rd. Sec. 4

太平洋sogo(忠孝店)

微風廣場 Breeze Center

長榮巴士站Evergreen Airport

遼寧夜市LiaoningNight Market 臺北小巨蛋

Taipei Arena

Zhongxiao E.Rd. Sec. 3

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Civic Blvd. Sec. 4Civic Blvd. Sec. 3

Nanjing E. Rd MRT Station

Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station

Zhongxiao DunhuaMRT Station

太平洋sogo(復興店)

“Thank you for the warm welcome! Your service is superb!” This simple, heartfelt expression of thanks is much appreciated, and gives us great encouragement. This quote is from a Jan. 20 China Times article in which a husband and wife from Singapore described how much they enjoyed their stay with us. This story once again confirmed for us that our visitors notice and appreciate the sincerity of our friendly, enthusiastic, and attentive service. For us at Hotel B, the smile and notes of thanks or praise from guests is the fountainhead of our drive and commitment.

The hotel is in a prime location, with convenient transportation options. Whether your desire is street rambling, shopping, exploring Taiwan’s famous foods, or anything else, everything is at hand, and the comprehensive transportation network makes all Taipei districts easily accessible. We’re between Taipei Metro’s Zhongxiao-Xinsheng and Nanjing E. Rd. stations, making for problem-free explorations of scenic sites throughout Taipei City and surrounding New Taipei City. There’s an international-airport bus stop right beside us, splendidly reducing the fatigue of long-distance travel, and you can also catch a bus for the famed Jiufen and Jinguashi mountain towns nearby, saving you both money and effort. Jiufen’s popular taro dumplings, and Jinguashi’s gold-panning experience, are just a short jaunt away. Stay with Hotel B and we guarantee peace of mind, joyful fun and adventure, great eating, and unbeatable shopping are all part of the package.

Seamlessly combining two very different styles in our rooms, “classical understated European elegance” and “black and white modern minimalist chic,” oases of tranquility, warmth, romance, and artistic aesthetics are created for your comfort, the busy, noisy city obliged to wait outside. Among our complete suite of services we offer you a fine Western restaurant, fitness center, business center, conference room, and laundry room. International travel is demanding, and these convenient and comfortable services make life easier for you. Hotel B is at your service, provides superlative value, and welcomes you to come give us a trial run.

Te l :+886 2 27813121 Fax:+886 2 27718796

No.367 ,Sec 2,Bade Rd., Taipei City 105,Taiwan105臺北市八德路二段367號

E-mail:taipei.hotelb@gmail.comwww.hotelb.com.tw

Thank you for the warm welcome! Your service is superb!

Traditional Beliefs

On your Sun Moon Lake trip you are sure to come across representations of a white deer. The Thao believe their original homeland was in the Alishan area, and that long ago a magical white deer enticed Thao hunters to this Shangri-la. The hunters went back to tell the tale, and the tribe moved en masse.

The owl is another iconic image you will surely come across. A sighting means a pregnancy or other good news. Owls are not hunted; They know all the tracks and paths in the deep forest, and to harm one ensures you will get lost. (See our Buy article on page 20.)

On a lake cruise, notice the trees on small Lalu Island when you circle it. These are maples, and they are sacred. Traditional belief is that with each new leaf a new child is born to the Thao.

When shopping in lakeside Ita Thao Village, the main tribal settlement, keep your eye out for a squared woven basket hanging on shop walls. Ask if this is a “Kungma” basket. These are sacred as well. Ancestors’ clothing is placed within, indicating their spirits are also within. These are still worshipped in many homes, and are worshipped before major tribal events.

Festivals

The traditional cycle of annual rituals is still followed by the tribe, securing the continued favor and blessings of ancestors. Key events include the Till ing Festival (February), Seedling Festival (March), Weeding Festival (May-June), Hunting Festival (July), and the all-important Harvest Festival (August). The last is the traditional start of the Thao New Year. During the celebrations the wonderful Thao pestle music is of ten heard; performed by groups, pestles are pounded against stone slabs in intricate rhythm. Regular demonstrations are given at Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village not far from Sun Moon Lake.

Tourists are invited to many festival-associated events, most centered around Ita Thao Village. For more information, contact the Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area Administration (www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw).

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Alishan 阿里山

Kungma basket 公媽籃

Lalu Island 拉魯島

Thao Tribe 邵族

The Thao Tribe of Sun Moon LakeLiving in ParadiseThe Thao of the Sun Moon Lake area are Taiwan’s smallest indigenous tribe. Off icially recognized in 2001, the group today numbers over 600. Working hand in hand with the administration of the Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area since the latter’s establishment, the tribe has enjoyed a cultural and economic renais-sance over the last decade. By Rick Charette

Lalu Island, sacred island of the Thao

Per forming pestle music

INDIGENOUS CULTURE

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Like people everywhere else, the good people of Taiwan like to get away from the stress of urban living to frolic in and by placid freshwater spots. Beyond Sun Moon Lake, the main subject of our Feature section this issue, here are my five more tourist-friendly lake/reser-voir destinations. By Rick Charette

Scenic Lakes & ReservoirsPopular Destinations for Weekend Outings

Cengwen Reservoir

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Shimen Reservoir

This reservoir, not far south of Taipei, is on the upper reaches of the Dahan River, the Tamsui River’s main source. It lies behind a tall dam – Shimen (“Stone Gate”) Dam – blocking the long, narrow gorge that opens onto the long, f lat valley that leads toward Taipei. The area is rugged and dramatically scenic; visitors come for long lake cruises, walks on winding trails to well-placed pavilions, bicycling (rentals available), and meals at waterside eateries featuring reservoir f ish in multiple ways. In spring, peach blossoms, cherry blossoms, and azaleas are in bloom, and in autumn maples planted to prevent erosion turn golden.

Not far to the east of Taipei is Feicui (“Emerald”) Reservoir, the city’s main drinking-water source. Severe restrictions on development have made this a prime spot for peaceful walks and hikes.

Liyutan (Carp Lake)

Just southwest of Hualien City, nestled in the eastern foothills of the central mountains, this is the region’s largest lake, about 104 hectares in area. There are pedal-boat and bicycle rentals, open-air eateries and cafés, a four-kilometer ring road for pleasant walking, well-marked trails shooting off into the nearby hills, and camping/picnic areas. Small motorboats can be rented (with driver) for cruises. The ring road, featuring easy grades, can be traversed in about an hour; f iref lies abound in late spring/early summer. Pineapple and other tropical-fruit plantations surround the lake, and resort hotels are now going up in the area. Paragliders use Mt. Liyu, just to the lake’s east, as their launch-pad (tandem-f lights with professional instructors available).

Deji Reservoir

On the Dajia River in Taichung, up in the central mountains, framed in many spots by sheer walls, this body of held-back water is 14-km long and 592 hectares. Tourists are permitted 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Its high, thin, hyperbola-shaped dam, Taiwan’s f irst arch dam, is a magnif icent sight, peaking at 290 meters. Scenic Provincial Highway No. 8 runs alongside the reservoir (at present, the reservoir is only accessible by this highway from the east, since the highway is closed off to the west). Premier nearby attractions are the Lishan area and its alpine fruit orchards, including those at Fushoushan Farm, Taiwan’s highest tourist tea farm, which has orchards, eco-hikes, a museum, and other amenities.

Wanda Reservoir is to the south in the same general region, near Wushe town and Provincial Highway No. 14. Set amidst tall peaks, dense forest lines the shores. The area is known for hiking, bird-watching, hot-springs and, at Aowanda Forest Recreation Area, colorful autumn maples.

Wushantou Reservoir

In the western rural section of sprawling Tainan City, 30 waterways f low into Wushantou, which sprouts over 100 islands. The water f lowing from the 6,000-hectare reservoir forms a lovely high waterfall. The intricate indentations of the shoreline have given rise to another name, Coral Lake. Other lake-area attractions are peaceful Zhongzheng Park, atop a hill, temple facilities, a barbecue area, camping area, lakeside trail, water park, and small aviary/garden.

Even larger Cengwen Reservoir, in the mountains not far to the east in Chiayi County, has camping areas, guest cottages, high observation platforms, outdoor-exercise facilities, an aviary, and a landscape-garden area.

Chengqing Lake

The Kaohsiung area’s largest lake, this reservoir, measuring over 300 hectares, is one of south Taiwan’s most popular scenic areas. “Crystal Clear” Lake has picnicking, boating, and a shoreline pathway and forest trails that connect its scenic sights together. Locals consider a relaxing day exploring the pavilions, pagodas, and pedestrian bridges a day spent within a poem. The lake’s myriad compelling beauties have brought it the name “West Lake of Taiwan.” The lake’s aquarium was originally a massive underground bunker; its 200-meter-long tunnel brings you to eight exhibits, on whales, exotic sea life, coral, shellf ish, and more.

Aowanda Forest Recreation Area 奧萬大森林遊樂區

Cengwen Reservoir 曾文水庫

Coral Lake 珊瑚潭

Feicui Reservoir 翡翠水庫

Dahan River 大漢溪

Dajia River 大甲溪

Deji Reservoir 德基水庫

Fushoushan Farm 福壽山農場

Liyutan 鯉魚潭

Mt. Liyu 鯉魚山

Shimen Dam 石門水壩

Shimen Reservoir 石門水庫

Wanda Reservoir 萬大水庫

West Lake of Taiwan 台灣西湖

Wushantou Reservoir 烏山頭水庫

Zhongzheng Park 中正公園

ENGLISH & CHINESE

SCENIC SPOTS

Travel in Taiwan 25

Touring Indigenous VillagesThere are approximately 800 tribal units in Taiwan. Because each belongs to a different tribe, each has a unique character. In Taitung County for example is Luanshan, a Bunun tribe, where you’ll find Taiwan’s last magnificent virgin forest and its most distinctive forest heritage museum. In Yilan County you can visit Bulao, an Atayal tribe where you gain insight into the Atayal’s famed weaving and the local self-sufficient lifestyle. Ita Thao, on the shores of Sun Moon Lake in the central mountains, is the main settlement of the Thao, the indigenous tribe in Taiwan with the smallest population. These are just a few examples of the countless settlements of diverse character awaiting your arrival.

Festival CelebrationsThe traditional celebrations of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples are rich in color and flavor. Each year from mid-July to mid-August the Amis, who are spread throughout the Taitung/Hualien region, stage their Harvest Festival, with settlements holding celebrations in succession. Tribal members give thanks to ancestral spirits for their blessing and protection, allowing them to live the past year free from want, and beseech their blessings once again for the year to come, deflecting ill fortune in favor of good. Other key festivals are the Ear Shooting Festival of the Bunun, who inhabit the south and east, the Flying Fish Festival of the Yami of Orchid Island (Lanyu), the Pas-taai or Sacrifice to the Short Spirits of the Saisiyat, who live in the northeast, and the Ancestral Spirit Ritual of the north area’s Atayal. All are well worth seeing, and the tribes welcome one and all who respect and wish to learn more about their traditions.

Cultural and Creative GoodsThe people of Taiwan’s various indigenous groups are noted for being cheerful and open-minded, and for their high artistic talent. Du Chun-yu, a member of the Rukai tribe originally from Wutai Township of Pingtung County, excels at traditional indigenous embroidery. Her exquisite creations are rich in traditional totems and patterns. The Rukai and Paiwan inhabitants of Zhengxing Village in Taitung are pottery masters, and a village visit is much enhanced by the many works of public art on display. If you’d like to enjoy the harmonious indigenous singing, visit Tiehua Music Village beside the old railway station in Taitung City, where there is a fixed performance schedule. There is also a weekend bazaar here focused on indigenous arts and crafts. Danayigu, in the Alishan area, offers the unique cultural-arts performances and the leather apparel and accessories of the Tsou tribe.

Authentic Original-Flavor FoodsVisit an indigenous tribe and you’re sure to find yourself sampling authentic local delicacies. Worthy of special mention is Shanqing Recreational Farm, located in Jianshi Township of Hsinchu County. The farm serves traditional indigenous fare, featuring wild vegetables and mountain boar; the Earthenware Lily Spring Restaurant and Cifadahan Café in Hualien, where you can enjoy salt pork, pickled cabbage rolls, stone hotpot, and other Amis culinary treats; and for seafood the Donghe Tribe’s House in Taitung, where jellyfish and sea urchin are on the menu. No visit to an indigenous settlement would be complete without sampling the local culinary specialties.

Taiwan’s indigenous peoples were the first inhabitants of the main island and its offshore islands. Today there are 14 officially recognized tribes – Amis, Atayal, Bunun, Kavalan, Paiwan, Puyuma, Rukai, Saisiyat, Sakizaya, Sediq, Thao, Tsou, Truku, and Yami. Each has its own distinctive culture. To gain a better understanding, go to their settlements in the mountains and by the sea, visit local artists and craftsmen, sample authentic indigenous cuisine, and take advantage of opportunities to participate in indigenous festivals. In doing so, you can clearly see their passion for life and their reverence for elders and ancestors. Your experience will be different from any you’ve had before, and definitely wondrous.

Discovering Taiwan’s Most Exciting Original Flavors

Advertisement by Council of Indigenous People Executive yuan

w w w . a p c . g o v . t w / p o r t a l /Members of the Amis Tribe at Mafo Community in Hualien

Touring Indigenous VillagesThere are approximately 800 tribal units in Taiwan. Because each belongs to a different tribe, each has a unique character. In Taitung County for example is Luanshan, a Bunun tribe, where you’ll find Taiwan’s last magnificent virgin forest and its most distinctive forest heritage museum. In Yilan County you can visit Bulao, an Atayal tribe where you gain insight into the Atayal’s famed weaving and the local self-sufficient lifestyle. Ita Thao, on the shores of Sun Moon Lake in the central mountains, is the main settlement of the Thao, the indigenous tribe in Taiwan with the smallest population. These are just a few examples of the countless settlements of diverse character awaiting your arrival.

Festival CelebrationsThe traditional celebrations of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples are rich in color and flavor. Each year from mid-July to mid-August the Amis, who are spread throughout the Taitung/Hualien region, stage their Harvest Festival, with settlements holding celebrations in succession. Tribal members give thanks to ancestral spirits for their blessing and protection, allowing them to live the past year free from want, and beseech their blessings once again for the year to come, deflecting ill fortune in favor of good. Other key festivals are the Ear Shooting Festival of the Bunun, who inhabit the south and east, the Flying Fish Festival of the Yami of Orchid Island (Lanyu), the Pas-taai or Sacrifice to the Short Spirits of the Saisiyat, who live in the northeast, and the Ancestral Spirit Ritual of the north area’s Atayal. All are well worth seeing, and the tribes welcome one and all who respect and wish to learn more about their traditions.

Cultural and Creative GoodsThe people of Taiwan’s various indigenous groups are noted for being cheerful and open-minded, and for their high artistic talent. Du Chun-yu, a member of the Rukai tribe originally from Wutai Township of Pingtung County, excels at traditional indigenous embroidery. Her exquisite creations are rich in traditional totems and patterns. The Rukai and Paiwan inhabitants of Zhengxing Village in Taitung are pottery masters, and a village visit is much enhanced by the many works of public art on display. If you’d like to enjoy the harmonious indigenous singing, visit Tiehua Music Village beside the old railway station in Taitung City, where there is a fixed performance schedule. There is also a weekend bazaar here focused on indigenous arts and crafts. Danayigu, in the Alishan area, offers the unique cultural-arts performances and the leather apparel and accessories of the Tsou tribe.

Authentic Original-Flavor FoodsVisit an indigenous tribe and you’re sure to find yourself sampling authentic local delicacies. Worthy of special mention is Shanqing Recreational Farm, located in Jianshi Township of Hsinchu County. The farm serves traditional indigenous fare, featuring wild vegetables and mountain boar; the Earthenware Lily Spring Restaurant and Cifadahan Café in Hualien, where you can enjoy salt pork, pickled cabbage rolls, stone hotpot, and other Amis culinary treats; and for seafood the Donghe Tribe’s House in Taitung, where jellyfish and sea urchin are on the menu. No visit to an indigenous settlement would be complete without sampling the local culinary specialties.

Taiwan’s indigenous peoples were the first inhabitants of the main island and its offshore islands. Today there are 14 officially recognized tribes – Amis, Atayal, Bunun, Kavalan, Paiwan, Puyuma, Rukai, Saisiyat, Sakizaya, Sediq, Thao, Tsou, Truku, and Yami. Each has its own distinctive culture. To gain a better understanding, go to their settlements in the mountains and by the sea, visit local artists and craftsmen, sample authentic indigenous cuisine, and take advantage of opportunities to participate in indigenous festivals. In doing so, you can clearly see their passion for life and their reverence for elders and ancestors. Your experience will be different from any you’ve had before, and definitely wondrous.

Discovering Taiwan’s Most Exciting Original Flavors

Advertisement by Council of Indigenous People Executive yuan

w w w . a p c . g o v . t w / p o r t a l /Members of the Amis Tribe at Mafo Community in Hualien

Handcra f ted ceramics remains a thriving industr y in Taiwan today, yet there are f ew places where the average per son can tr y his or her hand at creation. One o f the most popular spots is Shuili Snake Kiln in Nantou Count y, site o f the island’s oldest and most representative traditional wood- f ired kiln. By Rick Charette

The S huili Snake Kiln

Firing Your Love

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Traditional Cerami

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TOURISM FACTORIES

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The big, rambling wooden complex at the center of Shuili Snake Kiln

Ceramics Cultural Park l ies almost hidden away in forest cover beside Provincial Highway No. 16, just south of the town of Shuili and just before its junction with Provincial Highway No. 21, which leads to nearby Sun Moon Lake.

Inside is the kiln itself, a museum area, a multimedia exhibition room, a boutique, and a breezy open-front coffee shop. Intimate contact with ceramics-making comes in the pottery demonstration area, where masters show off each step of the craft, the DIY pottery classrooms, and the Wish Pottery area, where you “write your wish on the pottery and your dream will come true.”

During the DIY sessions, craftsmen assist visitors in making their own simple housewares such as bowls and mugs, then help to f ire them. Those who cannot wait for pieces to dry (about 30 minutes) can have them mailed to them, for a fee.

The 30-meter long brick kiln, sitting on a slope to get the heat inside to move upward – the f irewood is placed in the lower section – looks very much like a fat snake. It is a priceless historical relic, and is only rarely f ired these days, to keep it in condition. It takes 3~4 days and an incredible amount of wood to bring it

up to, and keep it at, the desired 1,100 degrees Celsius. The ash created within comes to rest on the ceramic pieces, creating the inimitable wood-f ired look. When not in operation you can walk through it.

There is a fair bit of English signage in the museum area, but a tour brings a much more intimate and info-rich experience. For English tours, park management suggests you contact them two weeks in advance. Among the precious info nuggets given me during my most recent guided visit was that in the past local folk would come during kiln f irings and, when temperatures were right, dry their clothing on the outside and bake sweet potatoes inside, and ladies would

walk through quickly with wet heads to get a free perm, hair curling instantly.

Among the many unusual and/or beautiful works on display is a water cistern

that is not a water cistern. In WW II the Japanese in

Taiwan realized they’d make great individualized air-raid bunkers, buried to their lip,

each customized for one man and provided a lid and a step inside for easy exit. They were ordered in the thousands. Another is an ingenious teapot invented for royalty in which the access hole is at bottom, not top, preventing easy poisoning. Figure out how it works before your guide tells you!

The 30-meter long brick kiln, sitting on a slope to get the heat inside to move upward, looks ver y much like a fat snake

DIY area The k i ln is bui l t on a s lope

Ingenious teapot

CERAMICS

Travel in Taiwan29

History

Nantou County was once a major ceramics-producing center, a source of products such as roof tiles, myriad household items, and large ceramic vessels for aging liquor. The local water was found to be pure, the local clay ideal, the area sparsely populated, the forest cover thick, and the wood needed inexpensive. In 1927, the founder of the Shuili Snake Kiln came up from the south af ter hearing of the prime conditions from a friend; today the third generation is in charge and the fourth generation is deeply involved. If you take an English tour it almost surely to be led by the fourth generation’s Lin Hsiao-yin, who went away to school always intent on returning to support her owner-father ’s dream of making the site a prime tourist venue and preserving traditional skills.

Lin’s father inherited the business in 1983 and, seeing demand wane for the wares of traditional wood-f ired kilns, turned to tourism. The complex took a severe battering in the 1999 earthquake and the kiln itself was completely destroyed, but Hsiao-yin says this was a blessing in disguise, for in rebuilding it her father and another old-time hand were able to pass on precious knowledge to assistants that otherwise would likely have slipped away with their own eventual passing.

HOW TO GET THERE:Self-drive: National Freeway No. 1 → Changhua System Interchange → National Freeway No. 3 → Exit at Mingjian Interchange → Prov. Hwy No. 3 → Prov. Hwy No. 16 Public transport: Take a train to Shuili Railway Station → transfer to Fengrong Bus (豐榮客運) bound for Puli (埔里) or Shuanglong (雙龍) to Snake Kiln stop (蛇窯站).

SHUILI SNAKE KILN CERAMICS CULTURAL PARK(水里蛇窯陶藝文化園區)Add: No.21, Ln. 512, Sec. 1, Shuixin Rd., Shuili Township, Nantou County (南投縣水里鄉水信路一段512巷21號)Tel: (049) 277-0967Hours: Daily 8 a.m. ~ 5:30 p.m.Website: www.snakekiln.com.tw (Chinese; at time of writing under reconstruction)Fees: Single adult ticket NT$150, preferential ticket NT$120 (NT$120/100 for groups; groups must be 30 and above); DIY ceramics making and painting NT$280/person, mug painting NT$200/person.

Building housing the Snake K i ln

V isi tors can watch a pot ter y master at work in the k i ln's work shop

TOURISM FACTORIES

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Other Places of Interest in the Area

The Jiji Branch Railway, popular with tourists, runs 29.7 km from the plains into the mountains along the Zhuoshui River, f rom the town of Ershui to the town of Checheng, near Sun Moon Lake. It was built by the Japanese colonial government in the 1920s to transport materials for the Sun Moon Lake dam construction, and soon opened for passenger traff ic. Today, colorful air-conditioned trains slide along past farms and through small towns and thick green forest. The single-track line is best known for its Green Tunnel between the towns of Ji ji and Longquan, a 4.5-km stretch of leaf y canopy right beside Provincial Highway No. 16. The trees were planted during the colonial era.

In the town of Jiji is the pretty Japanese-built Ji ji Railway Station, made of wood, which was rebuilt af ter being destroyed in the devastating 921 Earthquake of 1999. The adjoining museum has displays on the early development of the Ji ji Railway and on the earthquake. Be sure to check out the scale model of the area displayed in the complex. Bicycle-riding is also popular in the area; there are rental shops across from the station (motorized and tandem bikes available).

Checheng 車埕

Ershui 二水

Green Tunnel 綠色隧道

Jiji 集集

Jiji Branch Railway 集集支線

Jiji Railway Station 集集車站

Lin Hsiao-yin 林曉吟

Longquan 龍泉

Shuili 水里

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Checheng Station

Jij i Branch Rai lway

The town of Checheng is the rail l ine’s eastern terminus. The station, rebuilt with wood af ter the 921 Earthquake, has been called Taiwan’s most beautiful. The huge old sawmill is now a museum with displays on virgin cypress-extraction days, and there’s an experience workshop where you can create chairs, pencil holders, etc., and a boutique winery that creates sweet plum wines.

For more about tourist factories around Taiwan, visit taiwanplace21.org/en/index.htm.

CERAMICS

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Ambassador Hotel HsinchuAdd：No.188, Sec. 2, Zhonghua Rd., Hsinchu City, Taiwan R.O.C. TEL：+886 (3) 515-1111FAX：+886 (3) 515-1112

Ambassador Hotel KaohsiungAdd：No.202, Mingsheng 2nd Road, Kaohsiung City,Taiwan R.O.C.TEL：+886 (7) 211-5211FAX：+886 (7) 201-0348

Ambassador Hotel TaipeiAdd：No. 63 Chungshan North Road, Section 2, Taipei, Taiwan R.O.C.TEL：+886 (2) 2551-1111FAX：+886 (2) 2531-5215

Ambassador Classic Pineapple CakeIn Taiwanese the words for “pineapple” sound like the words for “prosperous future.” Pineapples are therefore often used as auspicious symbols. Resembling little gold bars, pineapple cakes make for a delicious gift with symbolic meaning to friends you want to wish well. The Ambassador Hotel Classic Pineapple Cakes, the finest quality, are made with soft & light outer shell and delicious sweet & sour pineapple paste as filling. By sharing these flavorful cakes with you, we hope to wish you and the people close to you good fortune and prosperous times ahead!

NT$270 Pack of 6NT$450 Pack of 10NT$880 Pack of 20

Not surprisingly, the area between the two mountain ranges in eastern Taiwan is popular among riders

with less stamina, less free time, or less ambition. Moreover, some of the townships within the valley have constructed car-free paths of varying distances within their boundaries, along which are signs in Chinese and English introducing local sights, historical and agricultural features, and fauna and f lora that might be seen. These routes are extremely family-friendly, starting and ending at bike-hire-equipped railway stations, and are accessible to anyone with half a day to spare.

Rif t valleys are created by tectonic plate action, in Taiwan’s case by the smaller Philippine Plate pushing into

the massive Eurasian Plate. This not only created the central mountains, topped by Yushan (Jade Mountain), at 3,952 meters the island’s highest mountain, but also, through subsequent volcanic action, produced the coastal range as well as Green Island and Lanyu (Orchid Island) offshore.

Pure waters descending from the mountains make this one of Taiwan’s premier rice-production areas, with rif t valley rice, usually marketed under township names such as “Chishang rice” and “Fuli rice,” commanding top prices abroad – particularly in Japan – and getting passengers to lean out of trains stopped at platforms to buy locally produced lunchboxes from vendors.

Traversing the

Cycling in the East Rift Valley

Fault Line

THE BEST BIKE ROUTES

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Chishang

One good place to start your East Rif t Valley exploration is Chishang Township – and for those not in a rush to start cycling, even better than a platform-bought lunchbox is one from Wu Tau Chishang Rice Boxes which, ironically, may then be eaten inside a disused railway carriage now parked on the side of Provincial Highway No. 9. The restaurant also has a two-f loor display of old photographs and agricultural equipment.

The main area of the town of Chishang itself feels l ike a throwback to former times. With the wares of ironmongers, traditional hardware stores, “department stores” – which

today might be called large convenience stores – and vegetable sellers spill ing out onto the streetside, it pays to take a wander.

Bikes can be hired at numerous outlets near the railway station, at Dadi Hotel on the main highway – where organic lunchboxes and ice cream f lavored with local rice are available – and down at nearby Dapo Lake. Prices range upward from NT$100 for 3 hours (longer on weekdays), and double for tandems. Visitors should not expect anything too f lashy for this price, but nothing f lashy is needed for the bikeway’s sl ight gradients.

Situated between Taiwan’s central and coastal moun-tain ranges, the East Rift Valley’s gentle slopes and mellow climate offer round-Taiwan cyclists a day or two of paradise after the magnificent coastal cliffs north of Hualien and before the surf-and-turf plea-sures of Kenting National Park. By Mark Caltonhill

Cycling around Dapo Lake in Chishang

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Most cyclists travel clockwise around the 15-kilometer route, f irst heading down to the lake; Chishang literally means “above the lake.” Depending on the season, the waters are alive with lotus f lowers, butterf l ies, or migratory birds, and those cyclists interested in differentiating the many species should allocate time to read the plethora of signboards.

From here, routes of different lengths head off southwestward into the paddy f ields. Again, depending on season, farmers can be seen planting, separating, fertil izing, and harvesting the biannual rice crops. Of particular interest are the aqueducts bringing stream water many kilometers from distant sources to the top f ields, from whence it trickles down from f ield to f ield till each paddy is thirst-quenched. Even the Chinese character for those aqueducts is nice: 圳, pronounced jun, is composed of earthen (土) embankments channeling river (川) water. This section of the route is titled the Aqueduct Bike Path.

Having crossed Provincial Highway No. 9, cyclists pass a reconstructed water wheel that raises tubes full of water so that yet more f ields can be irrigated. Nearby is the Fish Ladder, at which there is introductory information on the various f ish species that travel upstream in the adjacent river.

The highlight of your return to Chishang town is a visit to the Taitung Hakka Cultural Park. Flower-lovers can marvel at the extensive outdoor displays, while culture vultures can head inside for displays of traditional clothing, furniture, home utensils, and farm tools and, if lucky, watch local Hakka learn the handicraf ts of their antecedents. The nearby rice-husking mill also has exhibitions relating to that industry.

Depending on the season, farmers can be seen planting, separating, fertilizing, and harvesting the biannual rice crops

Paddy f ie lds at Chishang

Chishang r ice lunch box Tradit ional laundr y site

Taitung Hakka Cultural Park

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Guanshan

Guanshan, the next township encountered going south following Provincial Highway No. 9, claims Taiwan’s “f irst dedicated township-level bikeway.” Somewhat shorter than the one at Chishang, at around 12 kilometers, it too has a “paddy” part, on the east side, and there is an “upland” part on the west. In choosing your direction it is best to take into account the time of day, since the upland part passes under many trees, thus offering pleasant shade during the hottest hours.

Bikes can be hired f rom Kwansan Shan Shui Jyu Hotel, to the lef t when leaving the railway station, or at numerous outlets between the main area of the town and the start of the bike-only path.

This bike path is notable for its landscaped sections, with corridors of tall trees, riverside views complete with mud-seeking water buffalo, and raised embankments overlooking hundreds of hectares of paddy.

Visitors should look out for the 160 species of bird spotted in the township, of which 40 are protected – according to another signboard. Most glorious is the crested serpent eagle.

The high point of the inland section is the Sun-and-Moon-Watching Belvedere, a wooden platform popular at sunrise and, presumably, moonrise.

Continuing southward from here requires a NT$50 ticket, which gives access to the township’s visitor center and park further along the route. The most romantic items in the

park are the two-person paddle boats (NT$100/30 min.); but most interesting, especially perhaps for

foreigners, could be the memorial to 52 people who died in the hills nearby. Following the armistice of 1945, an airplane left the Philippines carrying sick POWs who had survived capture and internment by the Japanese. Tragically, the plane encountered bad weather over Taiwan, and the 26 passengers and crew all perished. A group of locals – the memorial is very specif ic about their indigenous, Japanese, and Han Chinese ethnicities – was organized to retrieve their bodies, but they too were hit by typhoon weather, and 26 more persons died.

Snacks, maps and water are available from the visitor center by the end of the bike path, and a good meal is close at hand in the center of Guanshan town.

Guanshan Township claims Taiwan’s “ first dedicated township-level bikeway”

Rural scene with water buf falo

Local farmer

Guanshan Bikeway

Water wheel

EASTERN TAIWAN

Travel in Taiwan35

Yuli

Yuli, in southern Hualien County (north of Chishang and Guanshan), brings one face to face with the geological conditions that created this sl ice of paradise.

Bikes can be rented from the Giant rental shop (on the lef t side when leaving the railway station), while the bike trail

heads off in the opposite direction (right from the station).

Most of the 9.5km route (19km return) is along a section of disused railway line that links to the now abandoned Antong and Dongli stations. The first of these has been converted into a bike-rental outlet; the second remains deserted, as another station with the same name has been constructed on the new line.

This old section of railway line repeatedly suffered damage as the Philippine Plate kept nudging its way into the Eurasian Plate, and closure for repairs was not uncommon. Eventually, three spans of the bridge carrying trains over

the Xiuguluan River had dropped so signif icantly that it was decided to let Nature have her way, and the new line was built on more stable ground.

The bridge has been repaired suff iciently for cyclist use, and the fault line is clearly marked, with yet more informative signboards explaining the science of plate tectonics in general and its specif ic inf luence in creating the East Rift Valley.

Those without the time or energy to ride the whole 19km will be happy to know the bridge is located not far from the center of Yuli town.

Yuli, Guanshan, Chishang, and the other townships in this area have strong traditional characteristics. Good places to imagine the Taiwan of times past, they have plenty of old-style hotels, mostly located near the railway stations, as well as more modern homestays. Restaurants are similarly unpretentious and wholesome. Many visitors board the trains heading back to Taipei with sacks of rif t valley rice under their arms.

Yuli, in southern Hualien County brings one face to face with the geological conditions that created this slice of paradise

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Antong 安通

Aqueduct Bike Path 環圳車道

Chishang 池上

Dadi Hotel 大地飯店

Dapo Lake 大坡池

Dongli 東里

East Rift Valley 花東縱谷

Fish Ladder 魚梯

Fuli 富里

Green Island 綠島

Guanshan 關山

Lanyu 蘭嶼

Sun-and-Moon-Watching Belvedere 縱觀日月亭

Xiuguluan River 秀姑巒溪

Yuli 玉里

Yushan 玉山

WU TAU CHISHANG RICE BOXES (悟饕池上飯包)Add: 259, Zhongxiao Rd., Fuyuan Village, Chishang Township, Taitung County(台東縣池上鄉福原村忠孝路259號)Tel: (089) 862-326

Bikeway in Yuli

Train running on the main eastern l ine

At the fault l ine of t wo tec tonic plates

TAITUNG HAKKA CULTURAL PARK (台東客家文化園區)Add: 1, Xinguang Rd., Xinxing Village, Chishang Township, Taitung County (台東縣池上鄉新興村新光路1號)Tel: (089) 865-038 Website: hakka.taitung.gov.tw

KWANSAN SHAN SHUI JYU HOTEL (山水居飯店)Add: 1-6, Bo'ai Rd., Guanshan Township, Taitung County (台東縣關山鎮博愛路1-6號)Tel: (089) 814-787Website: www.ssg787.com.tw

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Sensational Sand Art

FESTIVAL

Travel in Taiwan 40

Amazing Sculptures Grace Fulong Beach Once a Year

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Sand sculpting has come a long way since the times when only children and playful

dads, equipped with plastic shovels and buckets, built simple sand castles on the beach during summer vacations. Since the 1970s, when Gerry Kirk and Todd Vander Pluym started to approach this pastime in a more professional way, assembling teams in California to design intricate miniature reproductions of real castles, sand-sculpting competitions have become popular events around the world. Today, professional sand-sculpting teams enter international competitions organized by beach resorts located in all corners of the globe, from Canada to Florida and from Russia to Australia. There are even festivals, such as Sandsation in Germany’s capital, Berlin, that are staged far away from any sea or ocean.

Located in the far west of the Pacif ic, Taiwan is surrounded by sea, and the island’s wonderfully varied coastline is one of the great scenic attractions awaiting visitors. Though large stretches are characterized by rocky outcrops and pebble beaches, there are also premier f ine-sand beaches attracting beach-goers in large number during the warmer months of the year. One of the most popular is Fulong, located close to the northeastern tip of the island and conveniently reached by train from Taipei (the fastest train takes a bit more than an hour). The town of Fulong is rather small, with its only claim to fame being its beach. Visitors come here to enjoy water sports, camping, bicycling, and two major annual events – the Ho-Hai-Yan Gongliao Rock Festival and the Fulong Sand Sculpture Festival.

The sand-sculpture festival was f irst staged by the Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area

Administration (www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw) in 2008. Tens of thousands of visitors now come each year to marvel at the incredibly sophisticated works of art, made with nothing more than sand and water. All are welcome to sign up for the amateur contest, and have the chance to win prizes. Most visitors, however, are contented with viewing the sculptures created by professional artists from Taiwan and abroad. Last year, during the biggest edition of the festival to date, more than 350,000 visitors came to see a total of 61 beautiful works.One of the outstanding sand sculptures created in 2011

Master sculptor Wang Song- guan at work

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Travel in Taiwan 41

Creating sand sculptures has become serious business

in recent years, with professional sculptors vying for

crowns and prize money at sand sculpture festivals

around the world. In May and June some of the best

will put outstanding works of art on display at Fulong

Beach on Taiwan’s northeast coast. By Kurt Weidner

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Standing in awe before some of the intricately carved structures, many a visitor wonders what it takes to create these masterpieces. To f ind out, Travel in Taiwan recently met up with Taiwanese sculptor Wang Song-guan, who is the mastermind behind the event. A few weeks before the arrival of the international artists participating in the festival, he leads a team of workers to prepare the beach, with the most important task being the construction of large “sand pyramids” held in place with wooden planks. The sand is piled up in layers with the help of excavators, each layer compressed with tamping rammers. “Basically, we do all the preparations,” explains Wang. “The foreign artists just need to show up, and can start sculpting straight away.” The circumference and the height of the sand piles can vary, based on the designs submitted by the sculptors in advance, but what all of them have in common is a pyramid shape. “Because of the nature of sand, every sculptor has to start at the top and work his way down to the bottom,” says Wang. “You have to have a clear idea of how you want to go about realizing your sculpture, because once you have f inished the upper parts and work further down, you can’t go back up and make changes later on.”

The festival organizers grant the professional sculptors from abroad – 30 sculptors from eight different countries have been invited this year – maximum freedom to express themselves

artistically, but these artists are encouraged to incorporate an overarching theme in their works, which this year is “dragon,” a reference to the Chinese zodiac animal of the current year. Visitors can look forward to marveling at ingenious renditions of this mystic creature carved from nothing but sand. The type of dragon depicted doesn’t matter, according to Wang: “We might see long-shaped Chinese-style dragons or the winged versions familiar in the West. Any type of dragon is f ine.”

While the sculptures by foreign participants

will feature dragons, the theme for the works by the Taiwan team, consisting of professional artists, will be

different. “This year, we want to incorporate ‘music’ in our designs, which will present some new challenges,” says Wang, who comes up with the design ideas for all sculptures realized by the local team of sculptors. Leading this team, Wang plays the role of coordinator and instructor, and he also does the f inal touches on each sculpture. Says Wang: “We want to give local artists, who might be expert in other f ields of art but have no experience with sand-sculpting, the chance to work on these sculptures, contributing by using their respective artistic talents.” One of the challenges of creating sculptures related to music will be the rendering of portraits of famous music stars. “The sculpting of well-known faces in sand is a diff icult task, more diff icult than sculpting animals or cartoon characters,” he says.

Tens of thousands of visitors come each year to marvel at incredibly

sophisticated works of art

Work ing on the base of a large sand sculpture

The sand of Fulong is t ransformed into amazing landscapes

Foreign par t icipantAll sculptors s tar t at the top

FESTIVAL

Travel in Taiwan 42

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Fulong Sand Sculpture Festival 福隆國際沙彫藝術季

Ho-Hai-Yan Gongliao Rock Festival 貢寮國際海洋音樂祭

Wang Song-guan 王松冠

Thinking about the fragile nature of sand sculptures, you might wonder how those amazing works of art can withstand the forces of nature for any period of time. What if it rains heavily or – even worse – a major typhoon hits the beach? “There is no need to worry,” Wang says assuringly, “for the sculptures are protected by an environment-friendly sealer, consisting of water and glue, which is immediately applied once each part of a sculpture is f inished. The only real danger there, in fact, is the visitors. Sometimes there are a few naughty children among the large crowds who can’t resist the temptation to throw things at the sculptures. If that happens and the sealer is broken, the sand can start trickling out, which can seriously damage the work.”

Af ter being created in April the masterpieces will be on display at Fulong Beach for two months, until the end of June. They might well continue to exist for many more weeks beyond this, standing against the forces of both nature and man, but in the end, in what may seem to their creators l ike an act of cruelty, they are taken down forcefully by excavators to make room for the second of the year ’s big annual events on this beach, the Ho-Hai-Yan rock fest in July. Summing up the sculpture festival, Wang says: “This is a great example of creating something meaningful out of virtually nothing. Starting with not much more than sand

and water, artists from Taiwan and abroad are brought together to engage in cultural exchange. Large numbers of people are attracted to the art, thus boosting local tourism, and the huge crowds coming to Fulong create numerous opportunities for local businesses. It’s amazing how the simple creation of sand sculptures has led to an event of this magnitude.”

“It’s amazing how the simple creation of sand sculptures has led to an event of this magnitude”

Esk imo car v ing, 2011

FULONG

UPCOMINGFestivals and Events from May to July

For more information on upcoming festivals and events, visit the website of the Tourism Bureau at http://eng.taiwan.net.tw and click on “Festivals” or call the 24-hour toll-free Travel Information Hotline at 0800-011765.

Until JUN 3Taipei Traditional Arts Festival台北傳統藝術季Location: Taipei Zhongshan Hall, Taipei International Convention Center, National Concert Hall (台北市中山堂 , 台北國際會議中心 , 國家音樂廳 )Tel: (02) 2383-2170 ext. 261Website: www.tco.taipei.gov.tw

Until AUG 31North Coast Wedding Photography Contest北海岸婚紗留倩影Location: North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area (北海岸及觀音山國家風景區 ) Tel: (02) 8635-5100 ext.171Website: www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw

APR 16 ~ MAY 24Penghu Fireworks Festival 澎湖海上花火節Location: Xiying Rainbow Bridge & Guanyin Pavilion, Makong City, Penghu County (澎湖縣馬公市觀音亭西瀛虹橋 )Tel: (06) 927-4440Website: www.penghu.gov.tw

APR 14 ~ MAY 30Sun Moon Lake Fire�y Festival日月潭星光螢火季Location: Sun Moon Lake, Nantou County (南投縣日月潭 )Tel: (049) 234-1235Website: www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw www.agan.com.tw/firefly/f1.html

MAR 7 ~ JUN 20Baosheng Cultural Festival 大龍峒保生文化祭 Location: Bao'an Temple (61, Hami St., Taipei City/臺北市哈密街 61號 )Tel: (02) 2595-1676Website: www.baoan.org.tw

MAR 31 ~ MAY 20Yilan Green Expo 宜蘭縣綠博會Location: Wulaokeng Scenic Area (武荖坑風景區 ); 75, Wulaokeng Rd., Su'ao Township, Yilan County (宜蘭縣蘇澳鎮武荖坑路 75號 )Tel: (03) 987-2403Website: www.e-land.gov.tw

JUL 11 ~ 15Ho-Hai-Yan Gongliao Rock Festival新北市貢寮國際海洋音樂祭Location: Fulong Beach, Fulong Village, Gongliao Township, New Taipei City (新北市貢寮區福隆村福隆海水浴場 )Tel: (02) 2499-1210Website: www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw

Until MAY 20Hakka Tung Blossom Festival客家桐花季Location: Areas in western, central, and eastern Taiwan where tung trees bloomTel: (02) 8789-4567Website: tung.hakka.gov.tw

Travel in Taiwan 44

WHAT’S GOING ON?

Travel in Taiwan 45

This is the answer to the question on page 6. Did you guess right? Thousand-year eggs, also called century eggs or just pidan (皮蛋) in Mandarin Chinese, are a common side dish in Taiwan restaurants, of ten eaten together with sof t tofu and soy sauce. This is one of those exotic dishes that makes foreign visitors ask three questions: “What is this?”, “How does it taste?”, and “Why on earth do people eat it?” Like stinky tofu and chicken feet, two other highlights of a culinary-adventure tour of Taiwan, a thousand-year egg is something you usually try only when being encouraged (or “pressured”) by well-meaning local friends. Here is a tip for anyone who wants to try this specialty: Don’t sniff at it before eating. The distinct odor of sulfur and ammonia might well cause your brain to throw up insurmountable roadblocks…

WHAT’S GOING ON?WHAT IS THIS?

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台東-在太平洋濱的美好地方，這裡的人們熱情、好客、友善，這裡是最熱愛運動的城市在台灣，在陽光燦爛及清新的空氣下，您可以騎單車、慢跑、搭熱氣球、衝浪、泛舟同時享受浮潛及海釣的樂趣。當然，這裡的溫泉會提供給您，運動揮汗後的舒解身心…，一切的美好，盡在台東。

台東-在太平洋濱的美好地方，這裡的人們熱情、好客、友善，這裡是最熱愛運動的城市在台灣，在陽光燦爛及清新的空氣下，您可以騎單車、慢跑、搭熱氣球、衝浪、泛舟同時享受浮潛及海釣的樂趣。當然，這裡的溫泉會提供給您，運動揮汗後的舒解身心…，一切的美好，盡在台東。

Taitung, a beautiful spot upon the coast of the Pacific Ocean. The residents here are passionate, hospitable, and friendly, a city that loves exercise more than any other in Taiwan.Under the radiant sun and through fresh air, biking, jogging, surfing, rafting, snorkeling, fishing and hot air ballooning are all activities you can enjoy.Naturally, the hot springs will provide a chance to relax and unwind after the exertions of exercise. All that is well can be found in Taitung.

Taitung, a beautiful spot upon the coast of the Pacific Ocean. The residents here are passionate, hospitable, and friendly, a city that loves exercise more than any other in Taiwan.Under the radiant sun and through fresh air, biking, jogging, surfing, rafting, snorkeling, fishing and hot air ballooning are all activities you can enjoy.Naturally, the hot springs will provide a chance to relax and unwind after the exertions of exercise. All that is well can be found in Taitung.

台灣•台東TAIWAN•TAITUNG

元宵節炸寒單離島飛魚祭東河香丁節布農射耳祭

Lantern Festival Bombing Lord Handan(with Firecrackers)

Flying Fish Festival at Lanyu

Bright Spring Valencia Oranges –Festival Events

Ear-shooting Ceremony of Bunun Tribe

春Spring臺灣熱氣球嘉年華關山鐵馬系列活動池上竹筏季東海岸音樂季馬卡巴嗨文化觀光季全縣聯合豐年祭南島文化節卑南溪泛舟

Taiwan Hot-air Balloon Festival

Guanshan Mountain Bicycle Series Activities

Chihshang Bamboo Raft Season

East Coast Music Festival

Makapahay Cultural Festival

United County Harvest Festival

Austronesian Cultural Festival

Beinan River Rafting

夏 Summer

太麻里金針花季臺東釋迦節東海岸旗魚季臺東國際衝浪大賽

Taimali Daily Season

Tautybg-Custard Apple Festival

East Coast Sailfish Season

Taitung County International Surf Challenge

秋Autumn

卑南族大獵祭縱谷油菜花季

Beinan Big Hunting Festival

Rift Valley Rapeseed Flower Season

冬Winter

Rhythm in theRhythm in the

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TAIWAN

台東-在太平洋濱的美好地方，這裡的人們熱情、好客、友善，這裡是最熱愛運動的城市在台灣，在陽光燦爛及清新的空氣下，您可以騎單車、慢跑、搭熱氣球、衝浪、泛舟同時享受浮潛及海釣的樂趣。當然，這裡的溫泉會提供給您，運動揮汗後的舒解身心…，一切的美好，盡在台東。

台東-在太平洋濱的美好地方，這裡的人們熱情、好客、友善，這裡是最熱愛運動的城市在台灣，在陽光燦爛及清新的空氣下，您可以騎單車、慢跑、搭熱氣球、衝浪、泛舟同時享受浮潛及海釣的樂趣。當然，這裡的溫泉會提供給您，運動揮汗後的舒解身心…，一切的美好，盡在台東。

Taitung, a beautiful spot upon the coast of the Pacific Ocean. The residents here are passionate, hospitable, and friendly, a city that loves exercise more than any other in Taiwan.Under the radiant sun and through fresh air, biking, jogging, surfing, rafting, snorkeling, fishing and hot air ballooning are all activities you can enjoy.Naturally, the hot springs will provide a chance to relax and unwind after the exertions of exercise. All that is well can be found in Taitung.

Taitung, a beautiful spot upon the coast of the Pacific Ocean. The residents here are passionate, hospitable, and friendly, a city that loves exercise more than any other in Taiwan.Under the radiant sun and through fresh air, biking, jogging, surfing, rafting, snorkeling, fishing and hot air ballooning are all activities you can enjoy.Naturally, the hot springs will provide a chance to relax and unwind after the exertions of exercise. All that is well can be found in Taitung.

台灣•台東TAIWAN•TAITUNG

元宵節炸寒單離島飛魚祭東河香丁節布農射耳祭

Lantern Festival Bombing Lord Handan(with Firecrackers)

Flying Fish Festival at Lanyu

Bright Spring Valencia Oranges –Festival Events

Ear-shooting Ceremony of Bunun Tribe

春Spring臺灣熱氣球嘉年華關山鐵馬系列活動池上竹筏季東海岸音樂季馬卡巴嗨文化觀光季全縣聯合豐年祭南島文化節卑南溪泛舟

Taiwan Hot-air Balloon Festival

Guanshan Mountain Bicycle Series Activities

Chihshang Bamboo Raft Season

East Coast Music Festival

Makapahay Cultural Festival

United County Harvest Festival

Austronesian Cultural Festival

Beinan River Rafting

夏 Summer

太麻里金針花季臺東釋迦節東海岸旗魚季臺東國際衝浪大賽

Taimali Daily Season

Tautybg-Custard Apple Festival

East Coast Sailfish Season

Taitung County International Surf Challenge

秋Autumn

卑南族大獵祭縱谷油菜花季

Beinan Big Hunting Festival

Rift Valley Rapeseed Flower Season

冬Winter

Rhythm in theRhythm in the

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TAIWAN

To the untrained eye, Taiwan’s four Purple Crow species are hard to tell apart. Wingspans range from 60mm to

75mm. All four appear dark brown when stationary, but eye-catching patches of blue and purple become visible when they open their wings.

Researchers and volunteers are working hard to better understand the lepidopteran treasures that f lutter in Taiwan's f ields and forests. Travel in Taiwan recently met up with some of these dedicated individuals for a whistle-stop tour of two Purple Crow hotspots – the township of Linnei in Yunlin County and Kaohsiung City's Maolin District.

Approaching Linnei by train, it's the hills inland from the railway line that grab your attention, and we soon learn that topography is one key reason why this l ittle township is a bottleneck along the Purple Crow migration route. Prevailing winds and the availabil ity of food also inf luence when and where the butterf l ies move, but in recent years a stretch of National Freeway No. 3 in Linnei has become famous for the vast number of Purple Crow (sometimes 500 to 1,000 per minute) that f ly over it in early spring each year. In 2007 – in a move reported by the BBC, National Geographic Channel, and other global media – the authorities closed one lane of the freeway and erected 4m-high fencing along one side in an effort to cut the number of butterf ly road casualties.

At t imes, thousands of purple crows can be seen

congregating on a single tree

“Hair penci ls" of a

male Purple Crow

On the Trail of the Purple Crow

Butterflying in Southern Taiwan By Owain Mckimm

Taiwan's butterf lies have yet to attract

the kind of international attention the

island's birds now enjoy. But just as birdwatch-

ers come to seek out species seen nowhere else

in the world, butterf ly enthusiasts who arrive

at the right time of year can see a remarkable

natural phenomenon: the annual 250km migra-

tion of Purple Crow Butterf lies. By Steven Crook

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Counting but ter f l ies by the f reeway

The freeway is just one of several butterf ly-related attractions in Linnei. Our f irst stop was Yuxiangyuan, a small garden on the f latlands that is home to a tremendous variety of plants and trees. No pesticides are used here, so butterf l ies – as well as other insects and amphibians – revel in the pristine environment.

To guide tourists from one spot to another, purple butterf ly symbols have been placed on walls and fences. Following these, we passed Principal Zhang's House – a well-preserved traditional countryside abode – and made our way to the Linbei Ecological Hall.

The hall, a 70-year-old former tobacco-drying shed, houses a fascinating collection of antique furniture and traditional farming implements. The function of some items is far from obvious. A thick section of bamboo with a strap attached, for example, served as a f lotation aid, used when people needed to cross the nearby Zhuoshui River. A spinning device for starting f ires is easily mistaken for a drill.

The rice f ields and vegetable patches behind the hall attract butterf lies year-round, but an even better place to see these winged beauties is the Learn Garden, located along the same road as Yuxiangyuan, much closer to the freeway. The combination of colorful butterf lies, gorgeous f lowers and gnarled lengths of pear-tree wood gets photographers snapping away.

Yuxiangyuan and the Learn Garden are lit between dusk and midnight, the battery-powered lights recharged during the day with solar photovoltaic cells. Both are excellent places for moth-spotting. According to a list published last year by the ROC Butterf ly Conservation Society, Taiwan has 418 butterf ly species, meaning they represent just 10% of the island’s lepidopteran species. Moths account for the other 90%, but they have yet to be researched in much depth.

The stretch of freeway where you have the best chance of seeing large numbers of migrating Purple Crow

is at Chukou in the north of the township. This is about 3km from the railway station, where the elevated freeway passes very close to Provincial Highway No. 3. Despite cool, dull weather in the days before our arrival, at the time of our visit dozens of the butterf lies could be seen heading northwest.

Migrating butterf l ies f ly through Linnei between February and early April. Throughout this period, volunteers positioned beside the freeway count them as they f ly over. Another team, equipped with nets and felt-tip pens, catches and marks a selection so their route can be tracked and their behavior better understood. The measures being taken here to make their journey safer seem to be succeeding; we were told that the number of butterf l ies this year, as of the date of our visit, had been very similar to previous years.

There’s much more to Linnei than butterf l ies, of course. Papayas and strawberries grow in abundance. Huben Village is one of the best places in Taiwan to see the Fairy Pitta, a spectacular bird known to Chinese speakers as the ba-se-niao (“eight-color bird”).

BUTTERFLIES

Travel in Taiwan49

Edison Travel Service specializes in Taiwan toursand offers cheaper hotel room rates and car rental services with drivers .Edison welcomes contact with other travelservices around the world.

Purple Crow Butterf l ies migrate because they are sensitive to temperature. They spend

the warmer months in Taiwan’s north, but stay in the south during wintertime. Around 30 locations in Kaohsiung City and Pingtung and Taitung counties have been identif ied as “Purple Crow Butterf ly valleys.” In these places, individual trees may host 1,000 or more butterf l ies. When migrating, freeways aren’t the only obstacles they have to contend with – some f ly from east to west, crossing the Central Mountain Range at Tataka, almost 2,500m above sea level.

Most of these wintering spots are very hard to reach. In the mountainous Kaohsiung district of Maolin, however, tourists can step out of their cars and within minutes see clusters of Dwarf Crows (Euploea tulliolus koxinga). This sub-species accounts for almost three-quarters of Maolin’s Purple Crow population, which at times may total one mill ion. Striped Blue Crows (Euploea mulciber barsine) and Double-branded Black Crows (Euploea S ylvester swinhoei) make up the bulk of the rest, while fewer than 2% are Blue-banded King Crows (Euploea eunice hobsoni). Several other butterf ly types also put in an appearance.

Up-to-date information about the butterf lies can be found on the Maolin National Scenic Area’s multil ingual website (www.maolin-nsa.gov.tw). The site also has details on cultural events in the area, such as the Tapakarhavae or “Black Rice” Festival held each November.

Maolin Ecological Park, beside Maolin Village at the 2-km mark on County Road No. 132, is an excellent place to look for butterf l ies, and it was here that we grasped a key point of the migration: For many of the purple crows, which live about 8 to 9 months, f lying north or south, is a one-way, once-in-a-lifetime trip. Their eggs hatch in the south or north and the caterpillars feed on leaves; when mature, this new generation mates and lays again fresh eggs. They then head north or south depending on the season, leaving the eggs behind to fend for themselves. Many of the Double-branded Black Crows, however, prefer to breed in Zhunan Township in Miaoli County.

The large building near the park is the Fengshan District Farmers’ Association Activity Center. Even if you’re not interested in staying in one of its 44 rooms, do spend some time digesting the thorough bilingual exhibition in the lobby. The displays aren’t only about Maolin’s Purple Crows; there’s also lots of information about the world’s other major butterf ly migration, the f l ight of the Monarch between the United States/Canada and Mexico.

Before arriving in Maolin, serious butterf ly enthusiasts would do well to contact the Taiwan Purple Crow Butterf ly Ecological Preservation Association (htt p://cc428 jane.myweb.hinet.net). The association’s Maolin off ice is below the main village, at an art workshop/homestay named af ter its founder, Ubake (tel: 07-680-1035).

Purple Crow Butterflies migrate because they are sensitive to temperature. They spend the warmer months in Taiwan’s north, but stay in the south during wintertime

LINBEI ECOLOGICAL HALL (林北卡好生活館)

Add: 48, Zengchan Rd., Linbei Village, Linnei Town-

ship, Yunlin County (雲林縣林內鄉林北村增產路48號)

Tel: (05) 589-9215

Website: lb9999.blogspot.com (Chinese)

FENGSHAN DISTRICT FARMERS ASSOCIATION

ACTIVITY CENTER (鳳山區農會活動中心)

Add: 16, Maolin Borough, Maolin District,

Kao-hsiung City (高雄市茂林區茂林里16號)

Tel: (07) 680-1115

UBAKE (烏巴克藝術空間)

Add: 116, Maolin Borough, Maolin District,

Kao-hsiung City (高雄市茂林區茂林里116號)

Tel: (07) 680-1935

DEENGORGE GUEST HOUSE (得恩谷生態民宿)

Add: 138, Maolin Borough, Maolin District,

Kao-hsiung City (高雄市茂林區茂林里138號)

Tel: (07) 680-1540

Website: www.5658.com.tw/6801540 (Chinese)

Ubake homestay in Maolin

NATURAL TREASURES

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Much of the butterf ly-themed public art around Maolin was craf ted by Ubake himself. He and his wife sell a range of glass-bead and leather items, and for more than a decade they have been decorating a church in the village. Even though it’s unf inished, this house of worship is well worth seeing for Ubake’s metal-work, which combines Christian imagery, butterf ly shapes and Rukai-tribe motifs such as white l il ies (worn by a woman, this f lower symbolizes purity; by a man, it represents hunting prowess.)

Ecological tours for English-speakers can be organized through Deengorge Guest House (tel: 07-680-1539; 0989-579-751), a superbly located homestay. The owners have been carefully conserving the local environment for years.

There’s no public transportation to Maolin. Dajin, 3km away on the lowlands, is l inked by several buses per day with Pingtung City, from which there are buses and trains to every part of Taiwan. If you’re staying at Deengorge Guest House, you can ask to be picked up at Dajin.

Even if your visit to Taiwan doesn’t coincide with the stay of the Purple Crow in Maolin, or its migration through Linnei, you’ ll have plenty of opportunities to enjoy butterf l ies. More than 160 species can be seen in

Blue-banded King Crows 圓翅紫斑蝶

Central Mountain Range 中央山脈

Chukou 觸口

Dajin 大津

Double-branded Black Crows 斯氏紫斑蝶

Dwarf Crows 小紫斑蝶

Fairy Pitta ("ba-se-niao") 八色鳥

Fuyuan National Forest Recreation Area 富源國家森林遊樂區

Huben Village 湖本村

Linnei Township 林內鄉

Maolin District 茂林區

Maolin Ecological Park 茂林生態公園

Principal Zhang's House 張校長的家

Purple Crow Butterfly 紫斑蝶

ROC Butterfly Conservation Society 中華蝴蝶保育學會

Rukai Tribe 魯凱族

Striped Blue Crows 端紫斑蝶

Taiwan Purple Crow Butterfly 台灣紫斑蝶生態保育協會

Ecological Preservation Association Tapakarhavae ("Black Rice" Festival) 黑米祭

Tataka 塔塔加

Yangmingshan National Park 陽明山國家公園

Yuxiangyuan 御香園

Zhunan Township 竹南鎮

Zhuoshui River 濁水溪

ENGLISH & CHINESE

Yangmingshan National Park (www.ymsnp.gov.tw), just north of Taipei City, between May and July. Fuyuan National Recreation Area, in Hualien County in Taiwan’s unspoiled east, offers excellent butterf lying from March till August.

BUTTERFLIES

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Each movement is resolute, each step def ined and made with purpose. Yet despite this powerful

sense of discipline, the dancers of the Han Tang Yuefu music and dance ensemble somehow remain delicate and ethereal. They move like animated puppets across the stage, brought to l ife by ancient nanguan music, f irst heard millennia ago in the courts of China’s early emperors. The ensemble’s latest production, The King and Queen o f the Shang Dynast y, brings a 3,000-year-old story of love and war to modern audiences through a medium almost as old as the tale itself.

Founded in 1983, Han Tang Yuefu is unique in that it combines two separate forms of ancient Chinese performance art: nanguan or “southern pipe” music, and liyuan or “pear orchard” opera. During its near 30-year history, the ensemble has toured the U.S., Europe, Australia, Japan, South Korea, Southeast Asia, and China, has won numerous awards for

its CD collections of nanguan music, has produced critically acclaimed performances such as The Feast o f Han Xizai, The Tale o f the Luo River Goddess, and Romance o f the Lychee Mirror, and has engaged in two distinguished co-productions with French companies La Péniche Opéra and Doulce Mémoire.

Nanguan music is considered to be one of the most ancient Chinese musical-art

forms. According to Han Tang Yuefu’s founder and artistic director Chen Mei-o, nanguan music originated in northern China at least as early as the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD) before moving southwards into Fujian Province during the Jin Dynasty (265 – 420 AD) due to wars in the north. Primarily a f ixture of the royal court, the music survived in the south, patronized by the wealthy, and remained a mainstay of Chinese high society, eventually f inding its way to Taiwan with Fujianese immigrants during the 17th century.

Dreamlike and Mesmerizing

The Han Tang Yuefu Ensemble Combines Ancient Music and Opera By Owain Mckimm

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HAN TANG YUEFU

Liyuan opera had its roots planted a l ittle later, during the reign of Tang Dynasty emperor Xuanzong (685 – 762 AD), a music lover and composer who tutored performers in his Pear Orchard academy. “Emperor Xuanzong decided to incorporate plot into the traditional combination of poetry, song, music, and dance. The music and dance in his performances were not only performed to accompany poetry and song, but rather to illustrate a story as well. It was from this point that traditional Chinese opera began to develop,” says Chen.

Though liyuan opera and nanguan music are related, they were preserved through the ages by different people, Chen explains. “Nanguan music was preserved mostly by the gentry, while liyuan opera was preserved by the common classes.” During the decline of the Song Dynasty (960 – 1276 AD), performers of pear orchard opera began to establish themselves outside of off icials’ homes as street performers. The genre made its way south and, by the Yuan Dynasty (1271 – 1368 AD), had become completely integrated into the hearts and minds of the populace. “Because liyuan opera had a story

and wasn’t simply classical music, everyone could appreciate and enjoy it, meaning that it survived effectively among the common people,” Chen says.

Han Tang Yuefu performances combine classic nanguan

scores with dance movements taken from the liyuan tradition. Song and poetry are also introduced. Chen explains that the purpose in combining these elements

is an attempt to ref lect pre-Tang performances. “No one is sure exactly what the court performances were like before the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907 AD). But what has been recorded consistently in the history books is that poetry, song, music, and dance were performed together. For 3,000 years, f rom the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, right through to the Han and Tang, these elements were incorporated together into performances at the imperial court.” Before the Tang, however, singers would not dance, and dancers would not sing – a style very different from the Chinese opera usually seen today. “I wanted to return the poetry, song and dance to their original states, each as a separate element of performance, with nanguan music used as the base.”

Han Tang Yuefu is unique in that it combines two separate forms of ancient Chinese performance art: nanguan music and liyuan opera

Hsiao Ho-wen, who plays King Wu Ding in the lead role in the troupe’s most recent production, says, “Our dance movements are all taken from traditional liyuan opera but are adapted to accompany our brand of nanguan music. Whereas liyuan dance forms a part of an opera where the tempo is fairly l ively and quick, once adapted to nanguan the entire structure of the dance has to be opened up due to the rhythms of nanguan music, which are much slower.” Hsiao explains that the measured pace of the dances necessitates adding a lot more detail to the performance, as audiences have much more time to appreciate the subtlety and signif icance of the movements.

Hsiao joined the Han Tang Yuefu ensemble 15 years ago af ter a stint with the famous modern-

dance collective Cloud Gate Dance Theatre. Initially she found learning this new kind of dance extremely

challenging. “It was completely different from the modern dance that I’d studied before, even

more diff icult than ballet. The coordination involved in each movement is extremely precise, and

each gesture must be exact and purposeful.” Hsiao says the most challenging part of learning liyuan dance is learning to walk. The gait which dancers adopt on stage looks part military march, part marionette, and requires months of training to perfect. “People who have studied dance before of ten f ind their knowledge

of modern dance obstructive. The muscles used, the way we coordinate movement, these are all different.” Even af ter 15 years with the company, Hsiao still regularly studies new techniques. For their most recent performance, Hsiao and the other troupe members studied martial arts at the Songshan Shaolin Temple in China, then came back to Taiwan to study crescent-moon blade combat and the Daoist martial art of baguazhang.

Chen is demanding in regard to how dedicated her dancers must be to be able to succeed at the unique Han Tang Yuefu style. “My dancers must not only be versed in liyuan dance, they also have to immerse themselves in nanguan music and its history. Otherwise they won’t be able to dance effectively. Our dancing is heavily formalized and is completely dependent on the rhythms of nanguan music. Without this music the dancers look robotic, l ike string puppets. However, once the music begins to play the dancers come alive, and their spirit begins to show.”

At a special showing of The King and Queen o f the Shang Dynast y, one really gets to see what Chen is talking

about. In the story, centered on King Wu Ding and his warrior priestess wife Fu Hao, Wu Ding begins a torturous campaign against the Chu Kingdom. His then heavily pregnant wife, hearing ominous news of her husband’s impending defeat, sets

off with her own military forces to rescue him. Though she successfully wins her husband a crucial victory, the stress caused kills both her and her unborn child. Three years ago, while doing research on the Anyang area of Henan Province, China, where Fu Hao’s grave was discovered miraculously untouched by grave-robbers in 1976, Chen Mei-o was inspired to turn this story of love, sacrif ice and bravery into a nanguan performance.

As the dancers move, their gestures punctuate the resolution of each musical phrase. Nanguan music features constant repetition, with only subtle differences occurring throughout the score. It becomes hypnotic, rendering the slow, graceful movements dreamlike and mesmerizing. Chen has also infused the performance with extracts from the Chinese Book o f Songs, saying that some of these ancient four-character poems not only suit the cadences of certain nanguan scores but also ref lect the passionate romance between the two main characters. The poems are sung as well as chanted throughout sections of the performance, and lend a bittersweet and at times unsettling element to the mellif luous dancing.

“Many people think that the integration of nanguan music and liyuan dance is a newly created art form,” says Chen. “Nanguan music isn’t usually performed this way, and neither is liyuan opera. Returning to the pre-Tang style of making singers and dancers independent of each other gives people a feeling of freshness, of innovation and originality, when in fact it’s a very ancient style.”

The troupe will take their newest production to Bei jing in May, but will return to Taiwan in October, when the members will perform at the National Palace Museum, which is preparing a special exhibition of never-seen-before Shang Dynasty artifacts to coincide with the performance.

baguazhang 八卦掌

Book of Songs 詩經

Fu Hao 婦好

Chen Mei-o 陳美娥

Hsiao Ho-wen 蕭賀文

King Wu Ding 王武丁

liyuan opera 梨園戲

nanguan music 南管音樂

Romance of the Lychee Mirror 荔鏡奇緣

Songshan Shaolin Temple 嵩山少林寺

The Feast of Han Xizai 韓熙載夜宴圖

The King and Queen of the Shang Dynasty 殷商王．后

The Tale of the Luo River Goddess 洛神賦

ENGLISH & CHINESE

HAN TANG YUEFU (漢唐樂府)Add: 28, Alley 60, Lane 16, Danjin Rd., Tamsui District, New Taipei City (新北市淡水區淡金路16巷60弄28號)Tel: (02) 8626-1813, 8626-1823Website: www.hantang.com.tw

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Finding Beautyin Taiwan

Be a ut y Sa lons th a t Help

You Become Prettier

Going to a beauty salon in Taiwan

is an incredibly comfortable and

relaxing experience. Even the most

basic service – a hair wash – in-

volves a shoulder and head mas-

sage that eases away the frustra-

tions of daily life and leaves you

feeling beautiful and relaxed. B y

Amanda Hsiao

Get Your Hair Washed in Style: Ansleep

Starting off as a hair-salon operation in Japan, Ansleep has been providing first-rate service in Taiwan since 1997. The salon is a bit off the beaten path, but still reachable without too much difficulty; just take the MRT Luzhou Line to Zhongshan Elementary School Station and walk for 5 minutes. Opening the large wooden door reveals a modern-looking salon room to the right, and the space on the left looks like it was taken straight out of a medieval castle. Gothic décor, organ music, and an old black-and-white movie shown on the stone wall greet guests as they step into the salon and are guided to a small alcove.

In this area, filled with soft upholstered furniture, the various services that are provided are explained. The options range from the most expensive (up to NT$15,000), which are special designs like dreads, braids, and perms, to the more inexpensive (ranging from NT$300 to NT1,000), like a basic cut, shampooing, or styling. The most modern cutting and styling techniques out of Japan are used – by owner Mitsunori Saeki himself if you are lucky enough to catch him there.

After deciding to give the shampooing a try, I was led to one of the stations, which sported a beautiful chandelier overhead. A quick hair diagnosis is conducted first, to determine if specific products can be recommended for hair in need of some extra tender loving care. Then came my favorite part – the massage. Enjoying the soothing music, the low lighting, and the massage of shoulders and scalp, I began to understand the logic behind the name “Ansleep.” Even the shampooing is relaxing, with fragrant French and U.S. products used.

The shampooing done, it was off to a comfortable recliner for the rinse, where a blanket and pillow are provided just in case the massage proves relaxing enough to tempt sleep. Hair conditioned and scalp tingling, I was in seventh heaven as my stylist led me back to my station. The manager then explained to me that at Ansleep customers are encouraged to try different styles. Reflecting the shop’s own character, with its one-of-a-kind décor, the management wants people to leave feeling special and beautiful. Trusting in my stylist’s advice for a fresh new statement, I decided to plunge right in. The end result was a playful hairstyle that put a spring in my step for the rest of the day!

Note: Apart f rom Ansleep, many hair salons in Taipei offer hair wash services, including traditional hair salons and modern chain operations such as Showlin and Mentor.

Ansleep

Add: 1F, 16-3, Lane 13, Shuangcheng St., Taipei City(台北市雙城街13巷16-3號1)

Tel: (02) 2592-5567 (reservation recommended) ． Hours: Mon. to Sun. 10am ~ 8pm

Website: www.ansleep.com.tw

Mentorhair (曼都髮型設計)

Add: Main Store/ No.56, Sec. 4, Xinyi Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City

(總店/台北市信義路四段56號)

Tel: (02) 2707-1040 ． Website: www.mentor-hair.com.tw

Showlin Salon (小林髮廊)

Add: Main Store /2F., No.36-1, Ln. 216, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei

City (總店/台北市忠孝東路四段216巷36-1號2樓)

Tel: (02) 2752-6868 ． Website: www.showlin-salon.com.tw

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BEAUTY

Get Your Fingernails Colorful and Shiny: Kari Share Nails

No beauty makeover would be complete without beautiful nails. And perhaps Taipei’s best place to have your nails done is in the swank Xinyi District, only a short distance from the famous Taipei 101 skyscraper. After getting off at MRT Taipei City Hall Station, also on the Bannan Line, it’s a short walk or bus ride. Located in the same building as the VieShow Cinemas complex, Kari Share is a small, unassuming shop that has just the right products to make your nails look great and to make that great look last.

Reservations are highly recommended, as your manicurist will take time to discuss and make preparations for the look that you desire, and the number of customers that can be taken is thus limited. Basic services start around NT$1,000 and, of course, the more complicated the look the higher the price. However, customers are also welcome to pop in for a free counseling session and see what options are available. Inside the small, clean shop there is an area for those who only want manicures, and one with comfy chairs to relax in if you are looking for a pedicure.

From the three options for a manicure – nail care, a traditional manicure including nail polish, and acrylics – I opted for the traditional manicure. My manicurist had 16 years of experience, starting in the nail industry when it first became fashionable in Taiwan to have nails done professionally. I left myself in her capable hands, open to whatever style she felt would look best on me.

While she worked on cleaning, filing, and shaping my nails, she informed me that the secret to Kari Share’s success in Taiwan is in the special products they use. The nail polishes, as well as the

primer and the top and base coats, are from a U.S. company, Orly. The polish lasts up to two months without chipping. Even better, the shop has a nail dryer, produced by the same company, that

dries nails within 30 seconds, providing relief for anyone who’s afraid of smudging an expensive manicure within minutes of leaving the shop. After a quick final drying of each hand’s nails, I was ready to head out and have fun with my beautifully styled nails.

Note: Apart f rom Kare Share Nails, there are many other small nail care outlets in Taipei's Xinyi District and in the commercial area close to the intersection of Zhongxiao E. and Fuxing roads, including Nails Unique and Nail Atelier Siona.

Kari Share Nails (凱瑞莎兒)Add: 1F, 20, Songshou Rd., Taipei City(臺北市松壽路20號1樓)Tel: (02) 8780-7053 (reservation recommended)Website: www.karishare.com.tw

Nails Unique Add:Taipei Hankyu Branch/ 3F., No.8, Sec. 5, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City(台北阪急店/台北市信義區忠孝東路五段8號3F)Tel: (02)2722-0634

Nail Atelier Siona(希恩娜藝術美甲工坊)Add: 5F.-1, No.319, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Da’an Dist., Taipei City(台北市大安區忠孝東路四段319號5F之1)Tel: (02)8772-9832 ． Website: www.nail-atelier-siona.com

ENJOYMENT

Travel in Taiwan 56

Merry Spa Hair and Beauty (喜悅活髮塑館)

Add: 3F, 177, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Taipei City

(台北市忠孝東路四段177號3樓)

Tel: (02) 2771-8707

Hours: Mon. ~ Sat. 10am ~ 8pm, Sun. 10am ~ 6pm

Website: www.merryspa.com.tw

Get Ready for Tonight’s Party: Merry Spa Hair and Beauty

The next salon I visited, a few days later, has been beautif ying customers for 32 years. Originally started to assist brides in getting ready for their big day (sometimes handling 200 brides in one day!), the operation has expanded into a salon and spa, offering services in hair care, massage, and a very special service that I got to try, the Party Style Package.

Merry Spa Hair and Beauty, part of the Merry Group, is conveniently located just a two-minute walk from MRT Zhongxiao Dunhua Station on the Bannan Line. After a quick elevator ride to the third f loor you enter a spacious room with wood f looring and large windows, creating an inviting atmosphere that makes you stop and take a breath.

If you plan to go to a formal party or spend the night clubbing in Taipei, the perfect option offered here is the Party Style Package. The only thing you need to bring are the clothes you plan to wear in the evening; the rest is handled by the very capable staff.

Af ter presenting my party-wear, I was sent off to get my hair washed, which, of course, involved a soothing massage. Once my hair was washed and my makeup removed, the real work began. While my hair was set in curlers, a very talented makeup artist went about picking the cosmetics that would complement my outf it. I was concerned she wouldn’t f ind the right foundation, as I am very fair and have always had trouble f inding the best match for my skin tone. But I needn’t have worried – in no time she had mixed up the perfect color to match my skin, brought out the blue in my eyes with stunning eye-shadow, and helped to turn my look from everyday to très chic!

The f inal touch was my hair. After about twenty minutes the curlers came out and my hairdresser went to work, bringing out glamour I didn’t know I had. I had put myself in her capable hands, open to whatever style moved her, and was very impressed with the results. I had walked into Merry Spa unsure about what to expect, but walked out with conf idence, looking ready for a night out on the town!

Note: Apart f rom Merr y Spa Hair and Beaut y, there are also a number of beaut y st yling services in the Ximending district.

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FOOD JOURNEY

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At the Tai -Y i Plantlet nurser y in Puli

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Eating f lowers is nothing special…if you are a cow. If you are a human diner, however, it might sound like a rather unusual concept, and you’ll probably raise the question “Is this edible?” when f inding f lowers on your plate. If you need proof that f lowers can play a more important role in cuisine than just being the garnish, a visit to a f lower-cuisine restaurant in central Taiwan’s Puli Township is highly recommended. By Owain Mckimm

Feasting on FlowersSampling Innovative Floral Delicacies

FLOWERS

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Spread out before us is a ten-course meal. There’s f ish, shrimp, pork ribs, soup,

and plenty of delicious-looking vegetables, all draped with f lowers to give the dishes a garnish of springtime color, a dash of seasonal f lare – except the f lowers, in this case, are not simply decorations. They are, very much so, a part of the meal. Puli, in Nantou County, may be famous for its handmade paper and its high-quality Shaohsing wine, not to mention its passion fruit, sugarcane, mushrooms, honey, black tea, and rice vinegar, but it can be said that none of these benef its quite as much from the area’s exceptionally mineral-rich water as its f lowers – quite a few species of which are edible.

Puli takes pride of place as the slap-bang geographical center of the island. It sits in a star-shaped f lat basin framed by mountains, the highest of which reaches nearly 2,000 meters. Entering the Puli basin feels l ike entering an ecological compound, quiet and temperate, with a host of culinary surprises. Because of its location and terrain, Puli’s average yearly temperature is a pleasant 20 degrees Celsius. Rainfall is moderate, and the area’s water is of such high quality that it gets bottled and sold as mineral water. The typhoons that occasionally ravage the island’s crops between April and October are seldom a problem for Puli, its protective parapet of high mountains keeping the harsher winds at bay. As such, it is the ideal place for farmers to grow their crops, and is sometimes locally called the “LOHAS Basin” in recognition of its topographical good fortune. The term is also a reference to its four exemplary “Ws,” its famously attractive Water, Weather, Wine, and Women!

Flowers from Puli are exported all over Asia, and while f lower cuisine is popular locally, most of these f lowers

are sold for aesthetic purposes rather than culinary ones. The place to go for a true taste of what f lower cuisine can offer, though, is the Tai-Yi Red Maple Resort, which boasts over 13 hectares of gardens, parks, pavilions, and luxury accommodations, and its grandiose South Garden Banquet Hall. Able to seat up to a thousand people, the restaurant offers seasonal menus that take full advantage of Puli’s wide range of local-farm natural ingredients. The summer menu is focused on fruits, with passion fruit, tomato, grape, and exotic melon pear contributing heavily to the many courses,

while the autumn menu features lemongrass, lavender, mint, and

other aromatic herbs as its primary ingredients. Puli’s f lowers play a

supporting role in these menus, but it’s during spring that the local

blossoms take center stage at the restaurant.

“Even if the thought of quaffing vinegar makes you pull a funny face,

this drink combines the kick of a mild vinegar with the fresh scent of

osmanthus”

Edible rose

Dragon wing begonia

FOOD JOURNEY

Travel in Taiwan 60

The first thing we try in the ten-course set menu (available for lunch and dinner) is a glass of

f lower vinegar made with sweet osmanthus. Served in a wine glass, it isn’t unlike a glass of mild, though sour, white wine. A hint of the blossom permeates each sip, and it is a marvelous palate cleanser. Even if the thought of quaff ing vinegar makes you pull a funny face, this drink combines the kick of a mild vinegar with the fresh scent of osmanthus, and is uniquely refreshing.

Zhan Yong-ji, who works as a tour guide at the resort, explains that the f lowers used in the restaurant are mostly grown on site in the resort’s Ecological Leisure Farm. The Tai-Yi company has a total of seven plant nurseries (including the resort’s leisure farm) for growing and cultivating vegetables, herbs, f lowers, and fruits for sale in Taiwan, Southeast Asia, and China. The biggest of these nurseries, a 20-hectare plantation nearby, grows over a thousand different kinds of plant.

“This kind of osmanthus f lowers once every three months,” says Zhan. “Before it’s been ref ined the f lavor is quite astringent and bitter, but af ter it’s been washed and treated it can be made into vinegar, or dried and made into tea. It can even be used as a natural shampoo.”

One of the menu’s highlights is the steamed St. Peter ’s f ish (tilapia) in f lower sauce. The sauce is made with rose, begonia, red curry, and cream, and is spicy, with a complex dynamic occurring between the gentle sweetness of the rose and the sharp pinch of the begonia. Begonia also adorn many of the other dishes, but in this restaurant it functions as the star of a side salad, appearing in complete form rather than as decoration.

“This larger type of begonia is called the dragon wing begonia,” Zhan explains. “We use this kind in our dishes because it’s bigger and more attractive than other varieties.” The nearby Tai-Yi Plantlet nursery cultivates a smaller variety of this f lower called the wax begonia, though this variety is considered too small to give customers. “We cultivate our dragon wing begonias on the mountains in Qing jing, rather than down here in Puli,” says Zhan. “The dragon wing prefers temperatures between 15 and 28 degrees, and so the mountainous environment is more suitable for cultivating it during the summer.” During winter, however, the dragon wing begonias are brought down from the mountains and transferred to the resort. The begonias decorating the plates are a bright scarlet, with two rounded petals covering a yellow center l ike a gold coin hidden in a red lady’s

purse. Popping one in your mouth and crunching the petals is l ike biting into a very sour sweet. It’s diff icult to stop grabbing them off the plate. “The red variety has a very high vitamin C content,” Zhan says. “The white and pink varieties don’t have as much vitamin C, and this actually causes a noticeable difference in their f lavors.”

“Popping one in your mouth and crunching the petals is like biting into a very sour sweet. It’s difficult to stop grabbing them off the plate”

Another of the menu’s distinctive dishes is the roselle with bamboo shoots. Not much to look at, the glossy tan-pink roselles (a member of the hibiscus family) are easily mistaken for rashers of bacon. But, fried with asparagus and bamboo shoots, they are sweet, juicy, and a textural miracle. If meat were a f lower, it would be a roselle.

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Flower v inegar, salad with sweet osmanthus dressing, and pork chop with rose and dragon wing begonia

GETTING THERE: From Taipei West Bus Station, take a Kuo-Kuang Bus Co. bus directly to Puli. Buses leave at frequent intervals be-tween 6 a.m. and 9 p.m. The journey takes approximately 4 hours.From either Taichung Railway Station or HSR Taichung Station, take a Nantou Bus Co. bus to Puli. Buses leave at frequent intervals, and the journey takes about 1 hour.

For guests staying at the Tai-Yi Red Maple Resort, a free shuttle-bus service is available daily from Puli Bus Sta-tion at 9:15 a.m., 11:15 a.m., and 2:15 p.m.

If you drive yourself, take National Freeway No. 1 to the Changhua System Interchange, change onto National Freeway No. 3, continue to the Zhongheng System Inter-change, change onto National Freeway No. 6 and drive to the very end of the highway. Then follow Provincial Highway No. 14 into Puli.

Getting around Puli is best done by renting your own transportation, or taking a taxi.

TAI-YI RED MAPLE RESORT (楓樺台一渡假村)Add: 176, Sec. 1, Zhongshan Rd., Puli Township, Nantou County (南投縣埔里鎮中山路一段176號)Tel: (049) 299-7848; restaurant reservations (049) 299-6467Website: www.taii.com.tw

TAI-YI PLANTLET (台一種苗)Add: 58, Fuxing Rd., Fuxing Borough, Puli Township, Nantou County (南投縣埔里鎮福興里福興路58號)Tel: (049) 293-1360

PULI DISTILLERY (埔里鎮農會農村休閒酒莊)Add: 22-3, Liyu Rd., Wugong Borough, Puli Township, Nantou County (南投縣埔里鎮蜈蚣里鯉魚路22-3號)Tel: (049) 242-3828 Website: www.puli-distillery.com

Puli 埔里

Qingjing 清境

roselle 洛神花

South Garden Banquet Hall 南芳花園宴會廳

sweet osmanthus 桂花

Zhan Yong-ji 詹永吉

dragon wing begonia 飛龍海棠花

dry golden lotus 旱金蓮

Indian cress 金蓮花

Kuo-Kuang Bus Co. 國光客運

LOHAS Basin 樂活盆地

Nantou Bus Co. 南投客運

ENGLISH & CHINESEENGLISH & CHINESE

FLOWERS

Travel in Taiwan 61

Feast ing on f lowers Rose -f lavored candy Liqueur made with rose petals

Outside in the resort’s garden, Zhan shows us another popular edible plant, Indian cress,

known in Chinese as the dry golden lotus. This bright orange f lower with large circular leaves is not on the spring set menu, but makes an appearance on the summer menu. In fact, it is not the f lower that’s used, but the leaves. “In summer the f lavor of the leaves becomes much stronger,” Zhan explains. “We take a Taiwanese thousand-year egg, cut it in half, place it on one of these large leaves, and eat them together.” He breaks off a leaf for us to taste. It has a strong f lavor of mustard and already packs a punch despite not quite being in season. According to Zhan, it can also be ground into a paste and used as a kind of wasabi.

Our full set of ten lunchtime dishes costs a mere NT$480, and is more than enough for two people. Booking in advance is required. For those who just want to visit the resort, however, without eating in the restaurant or staying in one of the resort’s luxury cabins, suites, bungalows, or lodges, site entry is just NT$150 for adults.

For those wanting a purely l iquid lunch with a f loral theme, the Puli Distillery produces award-winning rose liqueurs, as well as rose vinegar, jam, and tea. Not to be confused with the Puli Wine Factory, which produces the area’s famous Shaohsing wine, the distillery was opened in 2000 by the local farmers’ association to promote the produce of local f lower farmers. The distillery itself has a large rose plantation onsite, and holds DIY sessions showing how to make aromatic rose jam for groups of 20 or more. The liqueurs, which come in two strengths, 7% and 16%, are made by f irst fermenting sugarcane and then distill ing the alcohol into liquor. Rose petals are then soaked in the liquor for 6 months to infuse f lavor. The liqueurs are good – deserving, even, of the description “ambrosial.”

With Puli’s reputation for good food, good wine, and good weather, is it any wonder that everything keeps coming up roses?

AdvertisementHOTEL INFORMATION

Travel in Taiwan62

No. of Rooms: 220

Room Rates: Deluxe / Single / Twin & Double NT$ 7,800~8,500 Suite NT$ 9,500~20,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts: La Fontaine (Western), Chiou Hwa (Chinese)

sPecial featuRes: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, laundry service, meeting and banquet facilities, non-smoking floor, parking lot, airport transfer service

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI華泰王子大飯店 Taipei 台北

369 Lin-sen (Linsen) N. Rd., Taipei City, 104 1 0 4台北市林森北路3 6 9號

Tel: 02.2581.8111

Fax: 02.2581.5811, 2568-2924

www.gloriahotel.com

370, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Da-an District, Taipei City 1061 0 6 台北市敦化南路一段37 0號

Tel: 02.2784.8888 Fax: 02.2784.7888Res. Hotline: 02.2784.8118

www.eclathotels.com

HOTEL ÉCLAT怡亨酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 60

Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 12,000 Grand Deluxe Room NT$ 12,500 Premier Room NT$ 13,000 Premier 9 NT$ 15,000 Éclat Suite NT$ 35,000(All rates are exclusive of 5% VAT and 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese, Cantonese,

RestauRaNts:Éclat Lounge, George Bar

sPecial featuRes: Member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World; strategically located in the most fashionable and prestigious district of Taipei; offers guests great convenience for business and entertainment; Wi-Fi connectiv-ity and in-room business facilities; variety of meeting rooms providing the ideal venue for professional meetings, corporate functions, and social gatherings.

No. of Rooms: 288Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 8,000 Premier Room NT$ 8,500 Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Club Deluxe Room NT$ 10,000 Suite NT$ 13,000 ~16,000 Imperial Suite NT$ 28,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts:Cantonese, Steakhouse, Bar ,

T3(T Cube)Bar & Restaurant, T2(T Square )

Toyko In Dining Bar, T1(One )Thai Bistro, 24-

Hour Room Service

sPecial featuRes: Banquet and Convention Facilities ,Business Center ,Fitness Center, Club Floors, MRT Transfer Service ,Parking Lot

600 Lin Shen North Rd., Taipei City,1041 0 4台北市林森北路6 0 0號

Tel: 02.2596.5111 Fax: 02.2592.7506E-mail: taipei@imperialhotel.com.tw

www.imperialhotel.com.tw

IMPERIAL HOTEL TAIPEI台北華國大飯店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 203Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 8,000 Business Room NT$ 9,000 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 10,000 Boss Suite NT$ 15,000 Premier Suite NT$ 20,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Mandarin, Taiwanese, Cantonese

RestauRaNts: Rain Forest Café, Garden Terrace, Lounge 81

sPecial featuRes:Business center, Pyramid Club - luxury executive floor, multifunctional room, Internet service, 32-inch LCD TV, garden terrace, bar, fitness club, outdoor pool, sauna, spa, aromatherapy, car park

83 Civic Boulevard, Sec. 3, Taipei City, 1041 0 4台北市市民大道三段8 3號

Tel: 02.8772.8800 Fax: 02.8772.1010E-mail: info@miramargarden.com.tw

www.miramargarden.com.tw

MIRAMAR GARDEN TAIPEI美麗信花園酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 88Room Rates: Standard Double Room NT$ 6,000 Deluxe Double Room NT$ 6,500~6,700 Superior Twin Room NT$ 6,500~6,700 Deluxe Triple Room NT$ 7,500 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 8,000 Business Suite NT$ 9,000~9,200 Premier Twin Suite NT$ 15,000

( Prices above including 15% Service Charge )

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Chinese, Japanese, Cantonese

RestauRaNts: Chinese and Western buffet breakfast, Café One

sPecial featuRes: Welcome fruit basket, newspaper, gym, free parking, free self-help laundry, business center, free cable and wireless Internet access, free pick-up service within city limits

1, Alley 34, Lane 123, Sec. 6, Minquan E. Rd., Taipei City台北市民權東路六段1 2 3巷3 4弄1號

Tel: 02.2791.5678 Fax: 02.2796.2311 E-mail: rsvn@fushin-hotel.com.twwww.fushin-hotel.com.tw

FUSHIN HOTEL富信大飯店 Taipei 台北

Hotels of Taiwan

V isitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when

it comes to accommodation. From five-star luxur y

hotels that meet the highest international standards,

to affordable business hotels, to hot-spring and beach

resort hotels, to privately-run homestays located in the

countr yside there is a place to stay that satisfies ever y

traveler ’s needs. What all hotels of Taiwan – small and big ,

expensive and affordable – have in common is that ser ve

and hospitality are always of the highest standards.

The room rates in the following list have been checked for

each hotel, but are subject to change without notice. Room

rates at the hotels apply.43, Chunghsiao (Zhongxiao) W. Rd.,

Sec. 1, Taipei City, 100(MRT Taipei Main Station, Exit 3)1 0 0台北市忠孝西路一段4 3號

(台北捷運總站3號出口)

Tel: 02.2361.7856 Fax: 02.2311.8921 Reservation Hotline: 02.2311.8901

Reservation Fax: 02.2311.8902 E-mail: cosmos@cosmos-hotel.com.tw

www.cosmos-hotel.com.tw

COSMOS HOTEL天成大飯店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 226Room Rates: Superior Single Room NT$ 4,000 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 4,500 Superior Twin Room NT$ 4,500 Family Triple Room NT$ 4,800 Deluxe Triple Room NT$ 5,000 Family Quad Room NT$ 5,500 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 6,000 Deluxe Suite NT$ 7,600 Cosmos Suite NT$ 10,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, Japanese, English, Cantonese

RestauRaNts: Cantonese Dimsum, Shanghai Cuisine, Buffet Breakfast, Lily Café, Ditrevi Ice Cream Shop, La Fusion Bakery

sPecial featuRes: Conference Room, Banquet Hall, Gift Shop, Barber Shop, Flower Shop, Parking Space, Laundry

AdvertisementHOTEL INFORMATION

Travel in Taiwan63

No. of Rooms: 268Room Rates: Single NT$ 6,000~ 8,800 Twin NT$ 6,800~ 9,600 Suite NT$ 8,000~ 36,800 Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts: French All Day Dining (French), Chao Ping Ji (Cantonese & Dim-Sum), Sumie Nouvelle Japonaise Cuisine (Japanese), Pozzo Bakery, Zorro Bar

sPecial featuRes:

Two minutes walk from MRT ZhongXiao Dun-hua Station. Business Center, Fitness Center, Conference Room, Banquet Room for 500 people, Free Parking for Room Guests, Free Broadband Internet Access in Guestrooms, In-Room Safe, Express/Dry Cleaning Service, Fine East and West Art Collections on Display

172 ZhongXiao East Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 1061 0 6台北市忠孝東路四段17 2號

Tel: 02.2772.2121 Fax: 02.2721.0302 E-mail: reservation@sanwant.com

www.sanwant.com

SAN WANT HOTEL TAIPEI台北神旺大飯店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 738Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 7,700 Premier Room NT$ 8,200 Junior Suite NT$ 9,200 Deluxe Suite NT$ 11,500 Executive Suite NT$ 17,500

EXECUTIVE CLUB FLOOR

Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Premier Room NT$ 9,500 Deluxe Suite NT$ 15,000 Executive Suite NT$ 21,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, Japanese, English

RestauRaNts: Le Parc Café, Magnolia Court, Canton Palace

sPecial featuRes: 738 large-size guest rooms with high ceilings, incl. 42 suites. Grand lobby entrance with magnificent atrium. Outdoor swimming pool heated during winter. Fully equipped gym, fitness center, sauna, and aerobics room. Fully equipped business center. Hi-speed broadband Internet access. Safety deposit box. Express laundry service. Limousine service, airport pick-up. State-of- the-art audiovisual equipment.

100 Dun Hua North Road, Taipei Taiwan R.O.C.台北市敦化北路10 0號

Tel: 02.2719.7199 Fax: 02.2545.9288 E-mail: bc@sunworlddynasty.com.twwww.sunworlddynasty.com

SUNWORLD DYNASTY HOTEL TAIPEI王朝大酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 95 rooms, 28 offices, 4 meeting roomsRoom Rates: Superior Room NT$ 5,000+10% Deluxe Room NT$ 5,600+10% Boutique Room NT$ 6,000+10% Business Room NT$ 6,600+10% Junior Room NT$ 7,800+10% Family Room NT$ 8,800+10% Executive Room NT$ 8,800+10% Pacific Room NT$ 9,800+10% Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, JapaneseRestauRaNt: Ju-Yi RestaurantsPecial featuRes: Free wireless access, Hi-speed ADSL broadband Internet, VIP lounge, Business Center, safety deposit box, private conference rooms, private office rental service, secretarial service, gym, parking lots, launderette, airport pick-up and limousine service

11F (Lobby) No. 495, Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City 11074

1 1 0 74台北市信義區光復南路49 5號 1 1樓

Tel: 02.8780.8000 Fax: 02.8780.5000 E-mail: pbc.taipei@msa.hinet.net

www.businesscenter.com.tw

PACIFIC BUSINESS HOTEL太平洋商旅 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 487 (Suites: 57)Room Rates: Single/DBL NT$ 5,700 – 11,000 Suite NT$ 15,000 – 28,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese

RestauRaNts: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop

sPecial featuRes: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards

1 Chung shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10461 R.O.C1 0 4 6 1台北市中山北路四段1號

Tel: 886.2.2886.8888Fax: 886.2.2885.2885

www.grand-hotel.org

THE GRAND HOTEL圓山大飯店 Taipei 台北

1, Zhonghua Rd. Sec. 2, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 10065

1 0 0 6 5台北市中正區中華路二段1號

Tel: 886.2.2314.6611 Fax: 886.2.2314.5511 E-mail: fo@taipeigarden.com.tw

www.taipeigarden.com.tw

TAIPEI GARDEN HOTEL台北花園大酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 241Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 8,000 Premier Room NT$ 9,000 Deluxe Triple Room NT$ 9,500 Deluxe Room NT$ 10,000 Junior Suite NT$ 12,000 Garden Suite NT$ 20,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:Japanese, English, Chinese

RestauRaNts: La Fusion Restaurant, La Fusion Bakery, Hanazono Japanese Restaurant, La Fusion Bar, La Fusion Deli

sPecial featuRes: Garden SPA, Sky Garden, Fitness Center, Business Center, Conference & Dining Facili-ties; (Rooms Facilities) 32” LCD TV/Pay Broadband Internet Access/Multi Channel Satellite TV with Domestic and Foreign Programming/En-suite Shower and Bath/TOTO Washlet

No. of Rooms: 538

Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 12,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 13,000 Junior Suite NT$ 20,500 Corner Suite NT$ 30,500 Residence NT$ 17,000 Elite Suite NT$ 24,500Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts:Szechuan & Cantonese Cuisine, Japanese Cuisine, Steak House & Teppanyaki, Lounge Bar, Buffet, Café

sPecial featuRes: Executive business center, fitness center, sauna, rooftop swim-ming pool, SPA, ballroom and convention facilities, parking, laundry service, 24-hour room service, wireless Internet, airport transportation service

41 Chung Shan (Zhongshan) N. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City, 104

1 0 4台北市中山北路二段41號

Tel: 02.2523.8000Fax: 02.2523.2828

www.grandformosa.com.tw

THE REGENT TAIPEI台北晶華酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 160

Room Rates: Single Room NT$ 4,200 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 4,600 Deluxe Twin Room NT$ 5,000 Suite Room NT$ 6,600

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts: Golden Ear Restaurant (Western semi buffet); Golden Pot (Chinese Cuisine)

sPecial featuRes: Business Center, meeting rooms, airport transfer service, parking lot, laundry service, free Internet access, LCD TV, DVD player, personal safety box, mini bar, private bathroom with separate shower & bath tub, hair dryer

186 Songjiang Rd., Taipei City,1041 0 4台北市松江路18 6號

Exit 1 of MRT Xingtian Temple Station on the Luzhou Line.

Tel: 02.2541.5511 Fax: 02.2531.3831Reservation Hotline: 02.2541.6888

E-mail: galahtl@ms18.hinet.net

www.galahotel.com.tw

TAIPEI GALA HOTEL慶泰大飯店 Taipei 台北

41, Sec. 2, Fuxing S. Rd., Taipei City 106(near junction with Xinyi Rd.)

1 0 6台北市復興南路2段41號(信義路口)

Tel: 02.2703.1234 Fax: 02.2705.6161E-mail: service2@taipeifullerton.com.tw

www.taipeifullerton.com.tw

TAIPEI FULLERTON – FU-XING SOUTH台北馥敦-復南館 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 100

Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 5,600 Executive Room NT$ 6,200 Deluxe Room NT$ 6,600 Junior Suite NT$ 7,000 Fullerton Room NT$ 7,400 VIP Suite NT$ 8,400 Presidential Suite NT$ 20,000

(above rates not including 10% service charge; for discount offers, please call hotel or visit our website)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Japanese, Chinese

sPecial featuRes: Close to Taipei 101 com-mercial area; 1 minute on foot to MRT Daan Station; free coffee and handmade cookies in lobby; free wireless Internet access; gym; sauna; business center; valet parking; com-plimentary Chinese/Western buffet breakfast; welcome fruit basket and mineral water.

AdvertisementHOTEL INFORMATION

Travel in Taiwan64

No. of Rooms: 211Room Rates: Superior Single Room NT$ 4,800 Superior Twin (1 double bed) NT$ 5,800 Superior Twin (2 single beds) NT$ 6,000 Superior Triple NT$ 6,800 Superior Family (2 double beds) NT$ 7,600 Superior Family (4 single beds) NT$ 7,600 Chateau Deluxe Twin NT$ 7,000 Chateau Deluxe Family NT$ 8,600 Chateau Deluxe Suite NT$ 10,800 Chateau Executive Suite NT$ 20,000 (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese

RestauRaNts: Western buffet-style, Chinese

sPecial featuRes:

Multifunctional banquet and meeting facilities, business center, male and female saunas, rental facilities for cars and bicycles, lounge bar, children’s games room, fitness center, chess room, outdoor swimming pool, green eco-pond, free transport to railway station and airport.

No.2, Yongxing Rd., Hualien City, Hualien County 970609 7 0 6 0花蓮市永興路2號

Tel: 03.823.5388 Fax: 03.822.1185 hualien.chateaudechine.com

CHATEAU DE CHINE HOTEL HUALIEN翰品酒店花蓮 Hualien 花蓮

No.23, Zhongzheng Rd., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 55546

5 5 5 4 6南投縣魚池鄉日月潭中正路2 3號

Tel: 049.285.6788 Fax: 049.285.6600www.fleurdechinehotel.com

No. of Rooms: 211Room Rates: Mountain View King Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Mountain View Two Queen Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Zen Mountain View Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Lake View King Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Lake View Two Queen Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Washiki Lake View Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Governor Lake View Suite NT$ 20,000~21,000 Royal Lake View Suite NT$ 25,000 Summit Lake View Suite NT$ 120,000 Penthouse Suite NT$ 150,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese RestauRaNt:Chinese food, buffet, teppanyaki, afternoon tea, lobby lounge, rooftop restaurant

sPecial featuRes:Banquet and conference facil-ity, VIP lounge, boutique, wireless internet, e-butler, laundry service, room service, parking, SPA, hot-spring, play ground, swimming pool, gym, HSR transportation service, out circular concourse, trail hiking, etc.

FLEUR DE CHINE HOTEL雲品酒店 Sun Moon Lake 日月潭

No. of Rooms: 152Room Rates: Standard Single Room NT$ 6,000 Standard Double Room NT$ 6,700 Standard Triple Room NT$ 7,500 Standard Family Room NT$ 8,000 Standard Suite NT$ 9,000 Executive Single Room NT$ 8,000 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 7,000 Deluxe Double Room NT$ 7,200 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 9,000 Deluxe Suite NT$ 14,000 Chateau de Chine Suite NT$ 50,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Chinese, Japanese

RestauRaNts: Japanese, Chinese, Cantonese Dim Sum, Lounge Bar

sPecial featuRes:

Multi-functional meeting room, banquet hall, business center, wedding planning center, gym, free use of wired/wireless Internet, silent refrigerator, electronic safe, personal bathrobe/slippers, free cable TV, free use of laundry room, all-new TV-sets

43 Daren Rd., Yancheng District, Kaohsiung City8 0 3高雄市鹽埕區大仁路4 3號

Tel: 07.521.7388 Fax: 07.521.7068 kaohsiung.chateaudechine.com

CHATEAU DE CHINE HOTEL KAOHSIUNG翰品酒店高雄 Kaohsiung 高雄

No.3, Sec. 1, Chengde Rd., Taipei City 10351

1 0 3 5 1台北市承德路一段三號

Tel: 02.2181.9999 Fax: 02.2181.9988www.palaisdechinehotel.com

No. of Rooms: 286Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 11,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 12,500 Family Twin Room NT$ 14,500 Executive Superior Room NT$ 15,000 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 16,500 Junior Suite NT$ 18,000 Executive Suite NT$ 21,000 La Rose Suite NT$ 100,000 Charles V Suite NT$ 150,000(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English,Chinese, Japanese RestauRaNts: La Rotisserie, Le Palais, Le Thé, Le BarsPecial featuRes:Gym, business center, ballroom and function rooms, VIP salon, wireless internet, gift shop, room service, E-butler service, airport transportation service, located in an area of the city with heritage sites and tourist attractions.

PALAIS DE CHINE HOTEL君品酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 79

Room Rates: Standard Room NT$ 4,000 Superior Twin NT$ 4,200 Superior Triple NT$ 4,800 Superior Double Twin NT$ 5,600 Superior Suite NT$ 6,000 Classic Suite NT$ 10,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts:Chinese, Western, and Inter-national cuisine, afternoon tea

sPecial featuRes:1/2F public area with unlimited Internet access, broadband Internet access in guestrooms, notebooks available at meeting room, free self-help coffee and tea, free parking, central location (5-min. walk to railway station), pick-up service, projector and screen available at conference room, newspa-pers and magazines, LCD screen TV-sets

139 Guolian 5th Rd., Hualien City, 970970 花蓮市國聯五路139號

Tel: 03.835.9966 Fax: 03.835.9977 Reservation: 03.833.6066

E-mail: service@classichotel.com.tw

www.classichotel.com.tw

HUALIEN CITY CLASSIC RESORT HOTEL花蓮經典假日飯店 Hualien 花蓮

No. of Rooms: 146

Room Rates: Scenery Suite Room/Twin Room NT$ 10,000 Fragrant Suite Room/Deluxe Room NT$ 12,000 Superior Suite NT$ 16,000 VIP Suite NT$ 16,000 Executive Suite NT$ 26,000 Handicapped Suite(Free Space Room) NT$ 26,000 President Suite NT$ 300,000

(Prices above not including 10% Service Charge)

GeNeRal maNaGeR: Mr. Jen-Shing Chen

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts: Chinese, Café, Courtyard

sPecial featuRes: Broadband Internet access in guestrooms, business center, Souvenir Shop, Gazebo, 1950’s dance hall, foot massage

ALISHAN HOUSE阿里山賓館 Chiayi 嘉義

16 Sianglin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, 605

6 0 5嘉義縣阿里山鄉香林村16號 ALISHAN Tel: 05.267.9811 Fax: 05.267.9596 TAIPEI Tel: 02.2563.5259 Fax: 02.2536.5563

E-mail: service@alishanhouse.com.tw

www.alishanhouse.com.tw

362 Jiuru (Chiu Ju) 2nd Rd., Sanmin District, Kaohsiung City, 80745

(Faces the exit of rear railway station) 8 0 74 5 高雄市三民區九如二路3 6 2號

Tel: 07.311.9906 Fax: 07.311.9591E-mail: ksthotel@ms33.hinet.net

www.kingstown-hotel.com.tw

No. of Rooms: 150

Room Rates: Business Single Room NT$ 2,640 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 3,080 Business Twin Room NT$ 3,080 Family Twin Room NT$ 4,400

( Prices above including 10% Service Charge )

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts:Chinese and Western style food, delicious buffet, cold dishes, fruit, and salad bar

sPecial featuRes:Business center, non-smoking floors, wireless Internet access, 32” LCD TVs, newspaper, free parking, tourist map, currency exchange

KING’S TOWN HOTEL京城大飯店 Kaohsiung 高雄

No. of Rooms: 153

Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 3,800 Classic Room NT$ 4,600 Deluxe Room NT$ 6,800 Theme Room NT$ 6,800 Azure Suite NT$ 12,000 Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts:Taiwanese/Hakka cuisine, brunch, Western cuisine

sPecial featuRes:Guestrooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, views of Pacific Ocean or Central Mountain Range, multifunctional public space, Azure Club, gym, pet hotel, KTV, board game and computer game room, located in Hualien City center, close to snack food and shopping streets

590 Zhongzheng Rd., Hualien City, 970970 花蓮市中正路590號

Tel: 03.833.6686 Fax: 03.3.832.3569 www.azurehotel.com.tw

AZURE HOTEL花蓮藍天麗池飯店 Hualien 花蓮

Time to ShopShoppers love Taiwan. From the designer boutiques of Dunhua to the gadget stores of Computer Lane, the island’s full of great places to indulge your passion. And thanks to our proud tradition of craftsmanship you can also stock up on happy memories of your trip.

Paper lanterns painted by hand.Beautiful woodcarvings. Stunning glass art. There’s even a weekend jade market fi lled with ornate trinkets made from the mythical green stone. Or visit the charming Maokong Tea Gardens and give friends a taste of Taiwan’s magic.

www.taiwan.net.tw

TTB Time to Shop.indd 1 07/07/2011 14:54

I S S N : 1 8 1 7 7 9 6 4

200 NTDG P N : 2 0 0 9 3 0 5 4 7 5

Yacht marina at Sun Moon; Lake

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Chaowu Pier

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Crossing the “Wedding Photo” Bridge

Bikeway following the banks of Sun Moon Lake

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Xiangshan Visitor Center

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Sun Moon Lake Ropeway

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Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village

Formosan Aboriginal Culture VillageVillageFormosan Aboriginal Culture Village

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Formosan Aboriginal Culture VillageFormosan Aboriginal Culture VillageVillage

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