Wood Special - Best Ever Home Shop Ideas 2009 (Malestrom)

Rail Bit

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allows iorSttb&

ExlanddTenons

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Rail Bit

For MakingStub Tenon

Guts on RailsRaised Panel Bit

For MakingRaised

Panel Guts

Now you Gan Grcab Beatffitl,Gushnizcd llmrc wtUt SUottg Joints.

Imagine the Possibilities,,,Thanks to Freud's patented innovation, you now havethe ability to make door joints with precisely fit tenonsof any length. Use the bits right out of the box for highquality stub tenons, or by simply removing the top ofthe Rail bit, create extended tenons (for stronger joints)

at all four critical corners of your door. Combine withFreud's flawless Stile bit design, even add Freud'saward winning Quadra CutrM Raised Panel Door bits,you can create unique interior doors with any designor wood species. These router bits come set up for1-3/4" height (for entry doors) and can easily be adjust for'1-3/8" height (for interior doors).

Sti le Bit

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Two Piece Bit Sets Available:. Roundover Profile (#99-267). Ogee Profile (#99-268). Cove & Bead Profile (#99-269)

Bit Sets Available:. Roundover Profile with Bevel

Raise Panel Bit (#98-300). Roundover Profile with Cove

Raised Panel Bit (#98-302)

Precisely the best.

After moving cars outside, this homeowner rolls out cabinets to forma worksurface in his garage. To learn more, see page 22.

From bkay'to'wow!'few months ago, I spent a good portion of a weekwatching the transformation of a ho-hum ZYz-cargarage into an incredible car buff's backyard escape.

(For a closer look at the shop, see page 36.)What a difference five days made. And believe me, the

"wow' factor doesn't fade: A revisit months later still tookaway my breath when the garage door rolled up. But whowouldn't be green with envy gazing at a sparkling epoxyfloor? No oil stains would dare linger!

That garage is a multitask space designed and organizedas many of us imagine our shops. Car-care products, previ-ously shuffled around in cardboard boxes, are now neatlyorganized behind a pair of doors. The adjoining cabinetholds a season's worth of yard and garden remedies. Paint-brushes and hand tools, neatly lined up like soldiers, beg tobe picked up from smooth-rolling drawers.

The recent visit to the shop gave me pause. No moreexcuses: I got the jolt to jump-start and overhaul my ownshop. I referred to the planning articles in this issue to leadme every step along the way.

How 'bout you? Just picking up this magazine affirmsthat there's a garage or shop redo on the horizon at yourhome. So get going! Break the work into bite-size tasks, andyou'll be there quicker than you think.

m^l^fuMarlen KemmetWOOD@ Magazine Managing Editor

Better Homes and Gardenso

Best-EverHome Shop ldeas 2A09woodmagazine.com

Editor-in-Chief BILL KRIERManaging Editor MARLEN KEMMETDeputy Editor DAVE CAMPBELLPublication Writer CARL VOSSTechniques Editor BOB WILSONTool & Techniques Editor BOB HUNTERMultimedia Editor LUCAS PETERSMultimedia Editor CRAIG RUEGSEGGERProject Editor LARRY IOHNSTONSenior Design Editor KEVIN BOYTEDesign Editor fEFF MERTZProduction/Office Manager MARGARET CLOSNERAdministrative Assistant SHERYL MUNYONPhotographers MARTY BALDWIN, IASON DONNELLY,DEAN SCHOEPPNER, IAY WTLDEContributing ll lustrators TIM CAHILL LORNA |OHNSON,ROXANNE LeMOINEContributing Craftsman llM HEAVEYContributing Proofreader IRA LACHER

Art Director KARL EHLERSProject Art Director fOHN GEARHEARTAssociate Art Director GREG SELLERSAssistant Art Director CHERYL A. CIBUIA

SUBSCRIBER SERVICE Co to woodmagazine,com/helpor write to WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439,Boone, lA 50037-0439

Publisher MARK L. HAGEN

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING

CHICAGO: 333 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1500,Chicago, lL 60601Marketing Manager AMANDA SALHOOTAdvertising Manager fACK CHRISTIANSENAccount Executive RYAN INTERLANDDirect Response Advertising RepresentativeLISA GREENWOODAssistants GAYLE CHEIN, NIA WILLIAMSATLANTA: Navigate MediaDETROIT RPM Associates

Business Manager IEFF STILESAssociate Consumer Marketing Director DAN HOLLANDAssociate Director of Marketing-Newsstand TOM DEERINCProduction Manager SANDY WIILIAMSAdvertising Operations Manager llM NELSONE-Commerce Manager MATT SNYDER

Vice President/Croup Publisher TOM DAVIS

MEREDITH PUBLISHING GROUPPresident fACK GRIFFINExecutive Vice President DOUG OLSONChief Revenue Officer TOM HARTYFinance & Administration MIKE RIGGSManufacturing BRUCE HESTONConsumer Marketing DAVID BALLCorporate Sales MICHAEL BROWNSTEINMeredith 3600 IACK BAMBERGERInteractive Media LAUREN WIENERCorporate Marketing NANCY WEBERResearch BRITTA WAREChief Technology Officer TINA STEILNew Media Marketing Services ANDY WILSON

.lUleredlthI conponlrror

President and Chief Executive Officer STEPHEN M. LACYChairman of the Board WILLIAM T. KERR

In Memoriam - E.T. Meredith lll (1933-2003)@Copyright Meredith Corporation 2008. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.Retail Sales Retailers can order copies of WOOD for resaleby e-mailing [email protected].

H,o'O

No Helper? No ProblemOvercome the challenges of accomplishingstrenuous tasks without a helper.

To Buy or Not to Buy?Before purchasing a new tool, weighyour rental options.

1 2

PIan Your Shop

22

It's Time to Act on YourDream ShopTime spent designing your new-work room will pay huge dividends.

Pack More WorkshopInto Less SpaceMake the most of every square footin your new shop.

Flooring OptionsYou'llf ind plenty of choices when you

consider upgrades to your shop floor.

Workshop CabinetryFeast your eyes on all the options forstoring tools behind doors.

WallSystemslf you want efficiency, you'll plan

for hanger space on your shop walls.

1 6

20

26

28 GetWiredA top-notch electrical plan allows for

changes in shop layout.

Brighten Your ShopDon't be left in the dark when readingproject plans and setting up tools.

Energy Efficiency for Your ShopHow to reduce your energy bill and reap

dividends for years to come.

Keep Your Shop and Lungs CleanBefore you start building projects, be

sure to include a system to gather dust.

Prepare Your Shop

38

Garage MakeoverJoin us for a journey into an upgradedgarage that! now a pleasure to work in.

Tips & Tools for Applyingan Epoxy FloorSee how professionals prepare a homeowner's .

garage for an industrial-quality epoxy floor.

How to Unstuff Your Garagein 2 DaysLearn how one DlYer spent less than

S1,000 to inject order into his shop.

Best-Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

36

30

32

3442

Build Your Shop

50 One-Day WorkbenchA solid bench becomes the key feature ofyour long-anticipated shop upgrade.

60

ToolCarouselReduce clutter in your shop after you build

and mount this storage unit on the wall.

Bench-Tool SystemA versatile tower and cabinet-both on

wheels-are ideal for benchtop tools.

Rolling Workshop StorageSave a lot of steps when you wheel a tower

of materials to your work area.

Shop CartIn a weekend, you can build a convenient

shop cart from one 4x8' sheet of plywood.

ToolCabinet

A tidy wall-mount cabinet packs a wallop

with amazing swing-out space for tools.

Stool & ToolTote ComboThis straightforward tool carrier doubles as

a convenient stool for DIY projects.

Tablesaw WorkbenchMake the most of a combination

workbench and outfeed table.

Mobile Storagelf you've run out of space solutions, build

this project for a quick fix.

Mobile Tool Cabinet

Customize storage for tools, hardware, andfinishing supplies in a smallfootprint.

65

66

82

84

Equip Your Shop

90 Orbital-Sander RestTake the swir l out of sanding.

Sheets Goods Mover/ LifterInstead of straining your back, work

smarter when you carry sheet goods.

92 Getting StartedBecause few of us can afford to buy all newtools at once, it makes sense to have a plan.

95 Power-SawComparisonAll saws cut, but choosing the best one forthe job can be a challenge.

98 Success WithM itersaws & AccessoriesMitersaws are perfectly designed for cuttingmolding and a whole lot more.

100 Drills: Compared and ContrastedBe sure you read this article about hand,battery-powered, floor, and tabletop drills.

102 Random-OrbitSandersThese tools save you hours of sanding byleaving scratch-free finishes.

104 Portable Tool StorageCart tools to your next project in a bucket,box, or sturdy fabric roll.

106 Ready, Set, RollCorral your tools with portable cabinets andportable chests that will last a lifetime.

108 AirTools and Compressor SystemsYou'll be amazed at how practicala compressor is for jobs around the house.

110 Lasers for the HomeHarness laser technology for your nexthousehold project.

112 DigitalTools Under 5100In today's market, you'llfind an affordablearray of digitaltools for home projects.

114 Clamps for the HomeBe sure you have the right clamp for the job.

116 Understanding Tool BatteriesTechnology advances open the door forlighter batteries that recharge quickly.

118 Eking Precision From3 Portable Power ToolsCircular saws, jigsaws, and drill/driversare capable of amazing jobs.

The Ultimate Cheap Guy'sWorkshopSavvy shopowners squeeze the most into

everytool purchase.

Save Big Bucks on ToolsFourteen tips will help you shop smartly for

your next tool purchases.

DrillComparisons 100

91

122

126

56

70

75

76

woodmagazine.com


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A B lack & Decke r Workma te manages c l amp ingtasks (above) and proves equal ly handy as aworkp iece suppor t ( r ight ) .

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c l a n r p s t o s u p p l c n t c n t \ ( ) u r l r c r r t l t ' sI t o l c l i n g l ) ( ) \ \ ' r ' f s , r n r l f r i r u s s t r n l r l i r i 3 p r o i -t ' r ' t s . S t r l t t t , , i t ' l 1 J k r t l t e i r . t s i t i i n t ' r r 1 r , r lr ' l . r r r r p t \ , l l t s l r s r v c l l , r s . r r l r l i t i o n , l i ' r l o r -

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s l r op -n t . t c l c , i l r ' t ' i t S l ' c i l t i t i t , , , ; i l l t \l t o r n c s l r o D .

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1 ' o r cL r t t i ng ( ) l ' s c l ' \ ' r ' i l \ t cn t l t o r ' , t r rl t s s c n i l r l v t t r b l c s . l r o l c l i n g s u n l t o r s t , s ,l i l i c t l r r o n r s s l r o n n . r t i i , 1 / l / , r ' c r l r r i i t ,r n i n i nu r I s t o r ' , r gc s l ) l l c c .

. \ n o t l t r r f r a t r r l c t o c o n s i c l c r r s l t c i g l t ta r l j r r s t . r b i l i t i . . \ s v o r r ' l l c l i s t ' o r c t ' , t u i l o r -i n g t l r r l r o r s t ' t o r o r r r s t . r t u f c i l n r i t l t t ,

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( . l . r n rp ing \ \ ' ( i o r l r vo r l i i r r r p t ' o j cc t s can [ r ti l l l t ' \ i l \ l ) t ' r i r t i t t g t ' \ f r i ' f i 1 - ' 1 l r r ' , t ' \ t ' l t i l r p t t

c l o l r avc . r he l pc r . ' l ' ha t ' s

bcc l r r r sc \ ' ou ' r ' cc o n s t r r n t l r l i g l r t i r r t t l r c c l o c l . , t r v i r r g t ogc t cvc rv th i ng , a l i gnc r l a r t r l l ock rc l c l o r vnbc io r c t l r c g l r r c g rabs . l l uv voL r r sc l l ' son r t '

To p roper l y suppor t l ong s tock , bu i l d a m i te rsaw s tandto res t on two sawhorses . Fo r the p ro jec t p lan , see

. Or , f o r an o f f - the -she l fm i te r s tand , see page 99 .

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Dollies providemoving experiencesMoving dollies are helpful ad-ditions to any shop for a widerange of tasks, whether you'rewheeling a new tool into yourshop, shuffling supplies, or roll-ing out a finished project. TWo-wheel dollies are good choiceswhen you're moving a stack ofboxes or a similar load that'staller than it is wide or deep. Butreach for a four-wheel flat dollyfor cumbersome loads or whenyou want to keep a piece mobilefor an extended period of timewithout lifting it repeatedly.But why choose? Some dollies,such as one manufactured byFastCap at right (see McFeely's atmcfeelys.com), morph betweenthe two configurations simplyby moving a handle. This par-ticular model won't negotiatelike a standard two-wheeler, but itsimplify many moving tasks inshop and home.

Gain some leverage forheavy liftingWoodworking and carpentry involvea lot of material-handling challenges.Full sheets of plywood and other panelscan be tough to lift, and even more un-wieldy when you try to maneuver themat a tablesaw. But here are a few ideasthat can help.

When moving cabinets around the shop or house, i t 'shard to beat the convenience of a dolly. This FastCapSpeed Doll ie supports up to 250 pounds.When you switch to a glue with longer open

time, you'l l gain clamp and assembly time.

extra assembly time by choosing a gluethat doesn't grab as fast as ordinary yel-low carpenter's glue. Franklin makesa version called Extend Titebond II witha slower set time, making it ideal forcomplex assemblies or when you don'thave an assistant.

Another one-person strategy is usepocket-screw ioinery. As shown below,the jig guides your bit to bore an angledhole in one workpiece, and you thenclamp the pieces to another, drill amatching hole, and secure a strong jointwith screws (no glue required). If youmake a mistake, simply back out thescrews and try again. You can craft awide arruy of ioints, and even buildentire face-frame cabinets and furnitureprojects with this system.

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Pocket screws eliminatecomplex clamping setups.You simply clamp and drivescrews at each step. Thescrews hold so tightly thatgluing is optional.

Before you go to the lumberyard,develop a cutting plan for each sheetthat will reduce the panel to severalmanageable pieces. Some lumberyardsand big-box stores will make severalplywood cuts at no charge, then tack ononly a nominal per-cut fee after that.A caution: The purpose of the lumber-yard cuts is simply to make handlingeasier, not to obtain final sizes.

Trying to control a long piece of lum-ber or plywood at the tablesaw can bedangerous. An outfeed support is aninexpensive purchase that keeps lumberfrom taking a dive. The outfeed supportcan also serve you well at the drill pressand other tools in your shop.

A panel lifter is a big help in movingplywood, drywall, and other sheetgoods. Most lifters fit under the panel,and you simply center the carrier in thelength of the sheet, as shown opposite.A quick tip: Keep your arm straight toavoid fatigue. Another style of panellifter squeezes the top of the sheet, andyou hold your hand at shoulder level.This design frees up your other handand also provides better visibility whileyou're walking.

Helplng handrWhether you're installing crownmolding or a bank of wall cabinets,one tough part of the iob is holdingthe long and bulky item in positionwhile you drive fasteners. A strong andpatient assistant isn't always available,so tool up for installation chores with acouple of mechanical helpers.


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This panel l i f ter from Stanley does a greatjob of helping you carry sheet goods suchas plywood and drywall .

For instal l ing cabinets and otherheavy chores, consider the CraftsmanCabinet Support from Sears (olsove cen-te l . l t qu ick ly ad justs f rom 50" to 85" ,and ho lds up to 400 pounds. P last icsupport pads at both ends help protectthe f loor and the i tem being ins ta l led.There's also a "shorty" version thatworks in the 17" lo 25" range; i t 's idealfor instal l ing wall cabinets after thebase un i ts are in p lace.

The Third Hand Tool, top r iglt t ,manufactured by FastCap, excels atl ightweight ho ld ing tasks (up to 70pounds) , such as ho ld ing crown or covemold ing at the ce i l ing l ine. Each po lehas a ser ies o f ba l l detents (s tops) ,al lowing for fast adjustments in a range

The Craftsman Cabinet Support allows you touse both hands to level and secure a cabinetto the wal l .

from 5' to I2'. Once you get close,squeeze the handgrip to advance a Yz"steel rod topped with 3x3" swivelingpad. The base also has a texturedrubber pad to resist slipping. For extrastabil ity, upgrade to a 6x6" foot. SeeMcFeely's (mcfeelys.com) for one source.

Keep small tools andparis within reachPeople constantly invent new ways tomake good use of magnetism. One cleveridea is the magnetic wristband that grabsonto nails, screws, and even small toolsand keeps them-quite literally-close athand. A variat ion straps around yourbicep, and is appropriately named theTool Band-it ( toolbandit.com). With a

The Third Hand Tool (about S45)solves theproblem of needing three hands and twoladders to instal l molding.

magnetic field strong enough to grip acarpenter's hammer, the bicep modelenables you to shed your tool belt whenworking in confined areas such as a crawlspace. Either version works when you'rescooting under a vehicle.

A mechanic's magnetic bowl providesanother great way of keeping ferrousfasteners in an easily accessible location.If you're the truly frugal type, you canmake your own container from a smallsteel kitchen mixing bowl, and a magnetsalvaged from a stereo speaker. tFWritten by: Robert f. Settich

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Toss a sheet of expanded polystyreneinsulat ion onto the f loor, and you bypassthe need to lift plywood onto sawhorses.Cut notches into the foam to accommodateclamps for the cutt ing guide.

woodmagazine.com

Keep fasteners as well as tools close athand wi th a magnet ic band. l t ' s espec ia l lyhandy when you're working alone beneatha vehicle or on a ladder.

You probably have a friend who will seize even the flimsiest excuse as a justificationfor buying a new tool. But sometimes, even the most hard-bitten tool junkie will flinchwhen faced with purchasing an expensive, specialized product that will see limited use.At these times, it pays to take a serious look at renting.

wo top reasons to consider toolrental are limited necessity andstorage issues. For example, you

may use a stump grinder to pulverize anannoying stump, but then not need thetool for another decade or two. And aconcrete mixer may be useful 1 percentof the time, but during the remaining99 percent of its life, it merely eats upfloor space in your garage or shed.

When buylng makes renJeLet's look at another rent vs. buy sce-nario: You're laying down a prefinishedhardwood floor, and you have all of thetools except a special flooring nailerand'an air compressor. If you're doingonly one room, buying the nailerprobably doesn't make much sense.But perhaps buying the compressordoes because it can help you withmany other home and shop chores.

8

(For more about compressors and air-powered tools, see page 108).

There are no absolute rules on therent vs. buy calculus, but the 50-percentrule is a good guideline: If the rental feeis likely to be 50 percent or more of thepurchase price, buying makes sense.

Check around foradvice and pricetWhen you have a rental need on thehorizon, check at several stores to com-pare prices as well as the quality of theequipment. If you see off-brand tools orpoorly maintained equipment, go toanother rental center. Most of the time,prices among the various'companies willbe similar, but you'll sometimes find areal bargain.

Also ask about the rental periods avail-able. There's often a minimum rentalperiod-two hours, for example-that is

the base fee, even if you return the toolsooner. For longer rentals, you'll findweekly and even monthly rates. Some-times, the day of the week or time of daymakes a difference in the rental rate.Again, asking questions may land you adiscount.

If you can visit the rental store at a slowtime, the employees may be willing todiscuss your proiect with you and offeradvice that could save you a lot of time,money, and work. For example, you maywalk in thinking you need to rent a sand-blaster, but a quality pressure washercould be an even better tool for the job.

Popular rental toolsMost rental stores do a brisk business incarpet-cleaning machines, and it's nosurprise that there's a seasonal nature tothe demand. For example, some familieswant to freshen their house before the


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Indust r ia l -s t rength renta l equ ipment cuts b ig jobsdown to size, saving you t ime and effort.

1 'hanksgiv ing and Chr is t rnas seasons,so don't wait urrt i l the last minutc anclr isk a lack o f ava i lab i l i ty .

[ : r 'cn sewer snakes have seasonaln . r t l r r r s . I n t h i s case , t hough , ho rne -o\ \ ' l tc l ' \ o l t t ' r ' r c l iscovcr that they neec lthcrn a f tc r t l t t ' b ig ho l iday gathcr ings

as a result of overloading the gar-bage disltosal, potrr ir-rg greasedown the dra i r - r , and hav ing ahouse fu l l o f people .

Other tools corlmonly rentedinc lude a prcssure washer forc leaning deck i l tg and s ic l ing, a i r -less paint spraycr, hardwood-f loorsander, pavernent breakcr, post-hole auger, and garden equipmentsuch as a t i l ler and aerator.

Planning requirements'l 'hc

old phrase about the equa-t ion o f t ime and lnoney takes ona sharp real i ty when you're rent-ing tools ancl other equiprnent.- l 'he

clock t icks away relentlessly,ancl votrr rnoney l t ' i l l disappearqt r ick lv i f you arcn ' t organizedancl prcparecl.

For starters, r lake sure you haveal l o f \ ro l l r sL lpp l ies and aux i l ia ry

tools on hancl l tefore picking up yourrental gear. I f vou're rcnting a vert i-cutlawn seec' ler (cuts paral lel grooves in thesoi l) , for example, buv your seed severaldays bcfore renting, and make sl lre youhave spare gasol inc so yol l don't need tostop in the rniddle of vour project.

Unloading and loading the equipmentcan also be a real t irne-waster if you'renot organized. Get ramps for yourpickup truck, i f necessary, or arrangefor scveral beefy buddies to help youhoist the equiprnent.

Efficiently organizing your work isanother way to save tirne. Let's say you'reti l ing a dining rooln and need a ti le sawto accurately cut the border pieces.

Cotrtiruted on page 10

A t i le wet saw is a must for smooth cuts ins tone, porce la in , and many f loor t i les .

Request fr FREE ca,ta,log Joday!world-workersh ardware.corn of call L -BOO-3S3-O l3l0

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. Decomtive knobs & pulls

. Hinges

. Drawer slides

. Kitchen cabinet accessofies suppl,ics you needl

A couple of hours with a pavement breaker candemolish a weekend's worth of whaling awaywith a sledgehammer.

Continued from page 9Instead of renting the equipment for

the entire duration of the iob, lay all thefull tiles you can in the room, and let themortar set. Next, mark all the tiles thatneed to be cut. Finally, rent the tile saw,and do all of your cutting at once.

Do you need a permit?Don't make the costly mistake of rent-ing equipment and then learning that apermit is required. Digging equipmentdemands advance preparation so youdon't accidentally chew up buried utili-ties. Years ago, you had to contact eachutility company separately and wait forits worker to mark the location of lineson your property. But many areas nowsimplify this procedure with a one-call service (call8l1.com). A contractorcomes to your property and locates thelines for all the utility companies withcolor-coded spray paint. The service isoften free, but be sure to allow adequatelead time-48 hours in some locations.

Local building inspectors are gener-ally a helpful and friendly group-unless you tryto build without a permit.And then, faster than you can say "stopWork Order," your project screeches toa halt. And human nature being human,these usually cooperative folks will finda dozen other things more pressingthan getting your proiect restarted.

Know what you're doingBefore you leave tf,e rental store, bJsurethat you understand how to start, stop,

and operate a piece of equipment. Askabout any adiustments you may need tomake such as setting the depth of cut.Some stores include a printed "tip sheet"with frequently rented tools.

There are many potential hazardswhen you're operating unfamiliar equip-ment, so make sure you understand eachsafety rule for its operation. Also inquireabout recommended safety gear. Mostrental operations sell dust masks, hear-ing protection, and safety glasses.

Some rental companies offer a damagewaiver for additional charge at the timeyou rent. This means you won't beresponsible for equipment save for dam-?g€, abuse, or theft. Your credit-cardcompany may offer some protectionwhen you use its card for the rental, butgetting authoritative advice on the cover-age may be challenging. Best tip: Checkyour homeowner's insurance policy. Thatmay cover rental equipment, but it's bestto call your agent before renting to under-stand limitations and deductibles.

One final word of advice: Clean thetool before returning it. This isn't merelya matter of courtesy-most shops willtack on a stiff penalty if you bring backdirty equipment. iWritten by Robert f . Settlch

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I f fhen it comes to location,ttlt there are three basic choicesf f for your shop, and each one

has virtues and vices.A freestanding outbuilding can

be as small as a garden shed or as largeas a barn. This opportunity is limited forcity dwellers and most suburbanites, butcould be an appealing possibility if youown a rural acreage. However, construc-tion costs can be substantial, and you'llneed to carefully consider whether you'llrecover the investment when you sellyour property. In addition, monthlyoperating expenses can be a genuineconcern, especially if your part of thecountry requires a heating system forcomfortable use during winter months.

A basement is often a great shoplocation, especially if i t has a largeground-level entry. This permits you toeasily move in tools and materials andjust as easily get f inished projects out of

1 2

your workspace. Shops accessible onlyvia a fl ight of stairs are slightly lessattractive, but still may be your bestoption. Some basements have minimall ighting and poor air circulation, butthese are fixable inconveniences, notdeal-breakers. The proximity of electri-cal service and other uti l i t ies meansthat powering up your shop and gettingit comfortable is usually quite afford-able. (See the article "Energy Efficiencyfor Your Shop" on page 32.)

A garage shop is often a good choicebecause of excellent accessibility andsturdy concrete floors to support heavyequipment. As a bonus, many garageshave a high ceiling. This makes it easy tohandle sheets of plywood or long piecesof lumber. TWo potential drawbacksinvolve existing clutter and vehicles.Clutter-busting solutions including get-ting rid of unused items and renting aself-storage unit. The storage-unit option

involves an ongoing expense, but it issometimes the only real alternative foran unrepentant pack rat. The vehiclesituation is potentially a more seriousissue, especially if your family includespeople who are under the delusion thata three-car garage should hold at leastone vehicle. If your shop needs to coex-ist with a car, you'll need to employ arange of space-saving strategies, such asflip-up work surfaces and mobile toolbases to exploit every cubic foot of stor-age space.

It begins with a planBut even before we get to the plan, let'sdebunk the myth of the "ldeal Shop."Like the Easter Bunny and one-size-fits-all clothing, it simply does not exist.The truth is that your shop wil l be aunique creation because its purposesatisfies the needs of one person: you.In addition, recognize the fact that your


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Don't toss the plan afteryou'vemoved into your shop. You'll nodoubt refer to the drawing againto experiment with new arrange-ments without getting into anyheavy lifting of machinery.

However you complete yourplan, don't scrimp on storageareas. Empty spaces fill upquickly with lumber and toolaccessories.

shop will need to grow and adapt to ping, and rotating them any'where you ISSUeS flfStmeet your evolving needs. You may want. You can even stack elements: put- Whenever possible, move everlthingneed to sharpen a mower blade on Sat- ting a benchtop dritl press onto a counter, out of your shop area so you can easilyurday morning and build a shelf in for example. To access this free planning deal with infrastructure upgrades suchthe afternoon.

Begin with a list that includes thesize of your workbench and storageunits, as well as the primary powertools, such as tablesaw, drill press, aircompressor, and so on. To help ensurethat your shop will be large enough,make a list all of the major toolsyou're planning to buy in the foresee-able future-not just the ones youcurrently own.

Next, draw a scale floor plan of yourspace, and create top views of the toolson little pieces of paper so that you canmove them about to test various loca-tions. To help with the planning, youcan download a free planning article atwoodmagazine.com/shoplayout.

A more high-tech approach is design-ing your shop layout on your computer.The Gizzly Industrial Web site, forexample, allows you to quickly create afloor plan, add doors and windows, andthen drag in a wide variety of elements.These include countertops, wall cabinets,and tables. You can size each one of themin L" increments. Now you can selectfrom virtually all of the major tools inthe company's catalog, dragging, drop-

woodmagazine.com

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A virtual shop layout on your computer allows you to drag and drop equipment with a mouseinstead of straining your back. When you create your plan, allow adequate paths so that youdon't need to bob and weave between the tools. Mobile bases help you stow idte tools.

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Good planning made the best of this shop space. Windows andbanks of f luorescent l ights improved i l lumination. Mobile bases area must for a maximum versatility of space, and the most-used toolsconveniently hang above the generous expanse of countertop.

If you don't have enough covered areato accommodate your shop's contentsduring construction, consider renting astorage trailer that a rental company candeliver to your driveway. Some buildingcenters act as agents for portable stor-age containers as well, so that's anotheroption for temporary storage.

If you're finishing the walls, use fire-rated drywall if your local building codesrequire it, or consider a special gradeof impact-resistant drywall. A wainscotof plywood or vinyl garage liner isanother way to keep your workspacelooking sharp and minimize mainte-nance chores.

Painting the ceiling, walls, and floorsis relatively inexpensive but makes a

-huge impact on the appearance and easeof maintenance. Renting an airlesssprayer for the ceiling and walls canmake this a quick job.

Instead of rushing to move equipmentinto your shop, exercise patience. Youmay tell yourself that you'll paint later,

A mobile cabinet del ivers tools and supplies r ight where you needthem-for auto detai l ing for example. Simply close the doors atthe end of the project, and rol l the cabinet against the wall , whereit's neatly tucked out of the way.

but the truth is that it would probablynever happen because this task generallyinvolves too much tool shuffling. This isespecially true of prepping and paintinga floor or installing another type of floorsystem. Doing this job when the shop isempty adds only a couple of days to yourconstruction schedule, but it makes ahuge difference in the appearance ofyour shop. For more information, see"Flooring Options," page 20.

Using light tones also improves theefficiency of your shop's lighting.

Don't be a noise nuisanceIf your shop is in a basement or attachedgarage, you also need to be sensitive toissues of noise and dust that you'll cre-ate when working in your shop. Locat-ing your shop in a detached buildingdoesn't necessarily solve the problem-itmay simply mean that you'll be irritat-ing your neighbors as well as your fam-ily. With some planning, though, youcan minimize the nuisance factor.

There are a number of ways tominimize sound transmission. Sound-attenuating fire blankets (SAFBs) installquickly into stud bays and between

ioists, providing better sound controlthan fiberglass insulation. You can alsoconsider a sound-reduction board asthe first layer that is then covered withdrywall. Homasote 440 Sound BarrierPanel (homasote.com) shown below isone brand.

Or, gain further improvement innoise insulation by adding a secondlayer of drywall. For general informa-tion on insulation , see page 32. tl

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Sound-reduction products, such as theHomasote panels shown here, can provide aneffective barrier to noise transmission.

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Pack More Workshoplf clutter and crampedfloor space describe yourworkshop, fight backand win with thesespace-saving ideas.

obody plans to mess up theshop; it gets messy for lack of aplan. If you're toil ing in an

unworkable workshop, devise an organi-zation strategy, and take action.

Every woodworker's clutter cure isunique, so pick and choose the ideasshown here that suit your situation.Whichever solutions you go with, you'llfirst need to do three things:I Define the boundaries of your shopto determine how much space youactually have. Remember to also thinkvertically-not just within your shop'swidth and length.I Decide what needs to be kept withinthe shop and what could be movedelsewhere. Then, l ist the tools youcurrently own, and envision locationsfor tools you'll own eventually.I Make the same space hold more orserve mult ip le purposes. Search outareas with untapped storage potential.

Bust up the clutterYou can't organize your shop until youget rid of needless stuff, so play "movingday." What would you keep or toss if youhad to pack everything and move nextweek? Send everything that's not akeeper to the trash or to the secondhandstore. Turn unused tools and loose hard-ware into someone else's clutter byboxing them up for the next garage sale.Then, take nearly empty cans of paint inforgotten colors to your local hazardous-waste-disposal site.

As you sort, distinguish between toolsand supplies for home repairs and thosefor woodworking. Box up plumbing andelectrical specialty tools and fixturesyou'l l seldom use. Then, store them onhigh shelves or outside the shop.

1 6

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Lay out space for flexibilityWhen reorganizing your workshop, planfor changing equipment or differentwoodworking interests such as wood-turning. A single area within your shopcan serve existing and future uses, butonly if you design it with that flexibility.Here are 10 ways to make smarter use ofthe space you have:

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!l Adjustable shelving adapts to change!f betterthan fixed shelving, especiallyfor storing lumber. The wire-meshshelves used here provide ventilation fordimensional lumber and are readi lyavailable at most home centers. Runshelves all the way to the ceiling to useevery cubic foot of space.


into Lgss Space^,_k ror nes,ec,ed space,,o add!t storagc. A cabinet on wheels can bestored beneath a tablesaw extension and

1fl1Plan for equipment you expect to addE/along with what you already own.That could mean leaving a corner emptyuntil you can afford that bandsaw you'vebeen eyeing. If you're creating a newshop, add 2ZO-volt outlets to power step-up machinery without the hassle ofextension cords or rewiring.

woodmagazine.com

f\Mobility = flexibility. Even if youY don't have to accommodate vehicleparking in a garage shop, place tools andcabinets on casters and mobile bases.That lets you use the same floor spacefor more than one task, speeds cleanup,and makes it easier to accommodate newequipment as your shop expands.

rolled out to double as an assembly table.Also, store loose parts in stacking binsbeneath jointer tables, between the legsof a lathe, or below a drill-press table.

G\ Add wall cleats for a more flexiblel9lhyout. Wall cleats give you thefreedom to add or rearrange wall cabi-nets as your needs change. They alsomake it easier to build or buy additionalcabinets gradually instead of all at once.In addition to cabinets, cleats can holdspecialized storage such as clamp racksand tool boards.

1|l Create space where you can sit and\37 work. Between cabinets under acountertop, Ieave a knee space wide anddeep enough to store a mobile storagecabinet or scrap bin. If your countertopstands higher than your tablesaw top,build a rolling storage cabinet shortenough to fit easily into the knee spacebut tall enough to double as an outfeedsupport for the saw or other maior toolsaround the shop.

1fi1Double-duty design uses half the\7 space. Instead of a separate routertable that takes up floor space, drop arouter table insert plate into the tablesawextension. This arrangement lets youuse the same fence for two tools.

j!\ Make a place for wood scraps. Forl9f pieces too large for the trash buttoo small to store with your lumber,build a mobile scrap bin. That way, youcreate a source for small project parts,scraps for testing blade or bit settings, orjust material for building jigs.

1@l Fit tall tools into corners. Use gapsE/ between benches or cabinets andwalls to store tall, narrow tools such as adrill press. Mobile bases make it easy tomove tools into these tight spaces.

!fil Replace steel leg stands with mobile1l9/ cabinets. This keeps accessoriesclose to the tools that use them, creates aheftier tool base for greater stability, andrelieves some of the storage burden onyour other cabinets and drawers.

1 7

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Custom cabinets: Think inside the box!lBump up wall-cabinet capacity by!Ifitting them with clamshell doors.Use the inside cavity to hang tools, orfit it with adiustable shelves to organizefasteners and loose hardware. Then,customize the outside of the door forhanging storage.6LAdd dimension to storage space.\TPerforated hardboard provideseasy-to-install storage, but alternativemethods use space more efficiently.Instead, buy or build cabinets that holdmore tools in less wall space.1lilAdd cabinets that create storage\Twithin storage to hang hand toolsand organize accessories. The accordioncabinet (page 70) uses two interior doorswith perforated hardboard for layers ofhanging storage.

/lReplace space-eating drill and routerttbit packages with a storage cabinetthat holds everything you need, includ-ing wrenches, collets, and accessories.AUse slide-out trays in base cabinetsVto provide access to the contentswith less bending or kneeling (andquicker tool retrieval). For a simpleralternative, fit cabinets with adjustableshelves to keep tools and supplies frombeing heaped onto each other.

1 8

Workbenches. Put benches on wheelsonly as a last resort. Workbenches arebest planted in one spot for greaterstabil ity.

Saws. On a mobile base, a tablesaw canbe swiveled or repositioned to rip largepanels and tucked out of the way whennot in use.

Lathes. The vibration of a lathe makes ita poor candidate for mobile bases andcasters. lf you need mobil ity, use wheelsthat retract completely or low,removable roll ing doll ies.

Dril l press. A mobile base allows you towheel this tool into a corner of the shopwhen not in use.

Router tables. Shaping long stock is aseasy as wheeling your router table into awide-open work area.

f o inters/planers. Jointers can bemounted on bases with retractablewheels. Planers can be attached tocabinets wi th locking casters.

AGustomize drawer storage specifi-\7 cally for items such as planes, chisels,and saw blades. Allow space at the top ofthe drawer to hold a removable tray.fl\ Make tool- or task-specific trays such17 as this portable chisel tray. Createsimilar trays for turning or measuringtools that you can take to the machine.

Roclc or roll?Mobility only goes so far in the shop; some items are best left with a solid foundation.Use these guidelines to decide what needs to be rock solid or ready to roll.

6\ Use cabinets instead of open shelves\7 to keep dust off tools and clutterout of sight. If a cabinet-and-countertoparrangement doesn't fit your workshopplans, add storage cabinets beneath yourworkbench for increased weight and sta-bility, and to keep tools close to whereyou'll use them.


Space-stretchingtips just forgarage shopsA No space goes to waste. Put that area!7 above your garage door to work bysuspending a platform beneath the ceil-ing. It's a handy spot for lumber, toolcases, and household items you movedaside to make room for your shop. Justmake certain you've firmly connectedthe framework to the ceiling joists.

Need temporary storage for a couple oflong pieces of lumber? Rest them on thegarage floor centered between the wheelsof your car. Raise the boards off the floorusing scrapwood supports, and coverthem to guard against vehicle leaks.

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\T leaning against a wall waste spaceand tend to warp. Solve both problemswith a simple bungee cord. Mount eyehooks into the wall studs more than8' apart, center the panels between thehooks, and pull them tightly against thewall with a pair of bungee cords hookedat the middle. Most panels are 4'wide orless, leaving plenty of room for shelvesabove your sheet goods.

1Ql Put high walls to work. Not all\7 storage needs to be within easyreach. Use the high walls in your garageto add one additional layer of storage foritems you'll use infrequently. Mountcabinets in the space above your carhood. You'l l add storage without sacri-f icing parking rpuce. cF-

Written by Robert Wilsonl l lustrat ions: Br ian fensen

Use every cubicfoot of your shopEven l i t t le changes can add up to b igspace savings. Here are f ive more waysto stretch your shop:

I In basement shops, dr ive na i ls or pegsinto the overhead joists to hang clampsconveniently close to your workbench.

I l f you can't foresee when you' l l havet ime to bu i ld shop cabinets , don ' t wai t .Get started with inexpensive, ready-to-assemble cab inets f rom a loca l homecenter. Then, customize these basicboxes with add-ons such as router-b i t ho lders , too l racks, and addi t iona lad justab le she lves.

I Handle every incoming i tem onlyonce. For example, don't leave that newbox of screwsyou just bought rest ing onyour workbench s imply because you ' rein a hurry. Take the extra 15 seconds tostore i t now, and you' l l save yourself15 minutes o f c lear ing accumulatedclutter later.

I Don't stop with your shop. Add orimprove s torage throughout yourhouse to create places for i tems thatdon ' t be long in the workshop.

I Create a " l imbo" box for a l l thosein terest ing doodads you toss in toyour shop when you think they're toohandy to pitch but haven't earneda permanent home. When the boxf i l l s up, i t ' s judgment day: T ime to sor tthe t rash f rom the t reasures.

1 9woodmagazine.com

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t o r o l l i t o r r t a n c l j o i r ' l \ e i l n r s ( . t n o l t t i o t t . t ls t c l r ) . I r o r a ga r i l . q t n ' i t l t l t c rn t . u t cn to l r s tac l cs , l i l i c . r t v i t t c r I r c i t t t t ' , 1 ' l oo t r l r i t i t t ,o f l ) r c c \ i s t i n g b r r i l t - i n c . r b i n c t r r , r o t t ' l l

n c r c l t o t r i r n i t t o f i t . \ l os t l r o r t t co rvnc rsr r i l l l r i t v c t h c s l . . i l l s t o i n s t i r l l .

I ' r ' i c t ' c l acc r i r c i i ng t o t l t i c l . l t c ss , l t . t t t c r t t ,a nr l s izc , ro l I covcr ings i tvcr ' . rgc $ I .505 .1 .50 / sc l . f t . S tu r t c l l r r c l n ' i r l t hs i nc l t t c l c7 \ t : i , 8 , . r r r c l ( ) . Son r r n r . r n t r f ac tL l r c l ' sl ( ' ( { ) n t t } t t , t 1 t l ( ) \ ( , 1 ' l i l | | i r t l \ r ' i t l l t \ .

Bes t -Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

I

;

Interlocking tllesOffering good cushioning, a variety ofstyles and surfaces, and a large selectionof colors and patterns, these tiles (right)provide the most pattern options.

The tiles come in different types,including solid, perforated, and evendrain tiles, and have embossed surfacepatterns for good traction and durability.The most common tiles measure LZxIZ"and 24x24", with intermediate sizes alsoavailable. So you may need to trim tilesaround obstacles. Most systems includebeveled attachable outside pieces toimprove the transition between tiled andnon-tiled areas.

One benefit of tiles that paints androll materials don't have is breathability.The seam around each tile allows a bit ofair circulation, and perforated tiles offereven more air movement-a boon togarage floors prone to dampness.

Because they simply snap together,homeowners can design a three-colorpattern and install the tiles with noexperience. (Race Deck shows severaloptions at racedeck.com.) When thereare a lot of cracks in a concrete floor-toomany for epoxy or paint to hide-tilesmake great alternatives.

Tiles offer one additional benefit:Should you move to a new home, orsimply want to try a new color patternor tile arrangement, they can beunsnapped and rearranged, or easilyremoved altogether for installation else-where. Expect to pay $2.25-$5.50/sq. ft.for tile materials.

Air-gap tilesAlthough not pretty, air-gap woodentiles (above rtght) offer extreme breath-ability for concrete floors prone todampness. The oriented strand board(OSB) tiles, measuring 24x24", have pat-terned plastic undersides that actuallylift the tiles off the floor. Not only doesthe created space allow the most airmovement of any flooring option, butminimal amounts of running water canfreely flow underneath. This solution isbest for a basement shop or garage thatdoesn't share space with an auto.

You may have to cut tiles to clearobstacles, but the tongue-and-grooveedges make for fast installation. If you'llbe rolling heavy equipment around,you may want to add some of the edgetiles to the floor to prevent shifting.Shims are available that fit the patternedplastic on the under-side to level the tileson uneven floors. The tiles are nearly

woodmagazine.com

By alternating ti le patterns, as in thisDiamondTrax floor, you can create anunlimited variety of floor designs.

1," thick so transition and reducingstrips (available at home centers) arerequired on exposed edges.

The tiles come only one way-barewood-but can be painted if desired.Or, you may choose to use the tiles as asubfloor for another flooring material

The air-gap engineered into DRlcore tiles liftsthe wooden portion off the concrete, whichcreates an insulating layer.

to be laid on top. You can find the tilesat many national home centers (onebrand name is DRIcore; information atdricore.com), where they sell for about$5 each, or about $1.25lsq. ft. Onlypaint is less expensive. IWritten by A.l. Hamler

Latex palnt ' Least expensive' Wide variety of colors' Makes cleaning shop

easier' No seam

Dry concrete a mustNo cushioningRequires cleaning of concrete,removal of old paintDoesn't hide cracks, other blemishesLeast durable

Epoxy palnt ' High durabi l i ty' Wide variety of colors' Makes cleaning shop

easier' No seams

' Dry concrete a must' No cushioning' Two-part versions can be tricky to mix

and apply' Requires extensive cleaning and

etching of concrete before application' Doesn't hide large cracks, other

blemisheso Short "open" (application) time

Roll materlal ' Cood cushioning' Cood traction' Hides cracks, other

blemishes' Variety of colors' Removable

' Large rolls can be unwieldy' Cutting necessary for perfect fit' Some colors may require special order

Interlocklngtiles

' Cood cushioning' Wide variety of colors' Good tract ion. Breathable' Hides cracks, other

blemishes' Easy to remove

' Cutting may be necessary for perfect fit' Desired materials/colors may require

special order' Seams easy to spot' Dust, dirt get trapped in open-pattern

ti les

' Cood cushioning' Cood traction' Breathable' Hides cracks, other

blemishes' Easy to remove' Water barrier' Inexpensive

' Cutting may be necessary for perfect fit' No color options' Lots of joints' Can't tolerate the weight of a car or truck

Air-gap tlles

21

. " . - , , , , . . , . . . . , - : . . , . i - ;

:U-,ir:.:::.

ffi

Ample, accessible storage is the key

Workshop Cabinetryor a lot of us, the farni ly garage isthe rnost available space to create aworkshop. Unfortunately, i t 's also

first look at cabinet solutions. (See pcgc20 for floor upgrades and poge 26 forwall storage systerns.)

With appropr iate ly designed cabinets, l ike these steel base and wal luni ts f rom Baldhead, cars and tools can coexist in a garage workshop.

What cabinets work best in a garageworkshop? Well, consider for a mornentthe other most work-intensive area in

the average home:the kitchen.It's a place with arnple storagefor tools and supplies, aninterconnected system ofexpansive worksurfaces, doors,and shelves to keep every-th ing conta ined (and h idden)when not in use. Add to thatthe fact that i t 's also a placewhere creativity is irnportant,and i t 's no surprise that man-ufacturers have taken theircues from the kitchen tointroduce cabinetry designedand styled with the workshopin mind.

As in the kitchen, garagecabinetry comes in a hugerange of sizes and styles to suitany need, with some manu-

Bert-Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

ff

ffir"

; , : - r r . ' : . . .

the most avai lable space forstoring yard gear and otherhousehold i terns-and, occa-sional ly, a car-creating a lnassof clutter not conducive to set-t ing up a shop.

Basic shelving can get stuffup and off the floor, but offersfew options for increasedworkspace, and plain shelvesin an unimproved garage arereal ly just vert ical clutter on adirty concrete f loor. Theperfect solut ion would be asystem of manageable storagecabinets, a way to hang al l ofyour horne, shop, and yardtools, as well as a ntore com-fortable and attractive floor tostand on and keep clean. Let 's

22

$ur

facturers offerir-rg custorn design ser-vices. This isn't your grandrna's kitchenyou relnember growing up, though. Sur-faces are sturdy steel, stain-f ightinglarninates, and heavy-duty resin or plas-t ic. Most garage cabinets sold todaycome in base and wall units that youcan arrange to f i t any size garage, withindividual components geared to yourstorage and project needs.

Base unitsBase units can be simple or elaborate.Sorne are basic, srnall cubes with a set ofdrawers or doors. Others can be quitelarge and fully tricked out with doorsand shelves, and available in severallengths and styles. Some manufacturers,especial ly those on the low end of theprice scale, offer just a few options; onthe upper end, some carry hundreds ofconfigurations.

As in the kitchen, rnany base unitscan be connected, while others areplaced side-by-side as needed. Most reston the f loor, but some manufacturersdesign their base cabinets to attach towall brackets. These hanging base unitsleave open space underneath, an irnpor-tant factor in garages and basementsprone to damp f loors.

Cabinets made fromheavy-gauge steel areextremely durable andsturdy-unless theyhave wheels, they'remeant to stay in onespot. (Wheeled basecabinets are a good ideafor infrequently usedtools such as mitersawsor dri l l presses; theentire unit can be rolledout of the way when notin use.) For versatility,simple cabinets ofmolded resin or plastic

ranged any time you want. They're alsoeasy to stack to create taller units. Betweenthose two extremes are cabinets moresirnilar to typical kitchen setups made ofparticleboard, MDF, or plywood. A lami-nate surface improves both durability andappearance, as shownbebw left.

Wall unitsBase units for garage systems can becomplemented with wall units hungabove them. Wall units can have doorsor shelves, or a combination of both.

Most are sized to match the base unitsbelow, and some can actual ly beattached to base units and arranged inmodular groupings. Mater ia ls andconstruction from each manufacturertend to match those of the base units.

WorksurfacesMany base-unit worksurfaces are madeof the same material as the rest of thecabinet, and may be unsuitable for tooluse. Others have wood or MDF surfacesthat stand up to sorle abuse.

panels are incredib ly Through careful at tent ion to layout , wal l s torage and cabinetry can

iigtrt and can be reai_ be integrated for an attractive and efficient workshop solution.

Th is 20"x20 'works ta t ion inc ludes a backsp lash fo r hang ing f requent ly used too ls . Thetab le o f the compound mi te rsaw is se t f lush w i th the worksur face , fu l l y suppor t ing longboards . Th is se tup makes i t easy to cont ro l long boards and cu t accura te ly .

woodmagazine.com

Whatever cab ine ts you choose, you ' l l need a s t rong,re l iab le worksur face . Depend ing on the manufac turer , theopt ions may inc lude so l id wood (as shown on the cab ine tsabove) , s tee l , MDF, par t i c leboard , rubber , s tee l , p l iab lepo lyure thane, p lywood, o r mo lded p las t i c .

2 3

For more durability, choose base unitsfrom a manufacturer that offers optionalbenchtops (or be prepared to make yourown). Wood is a traditional favorite, butmany homeowners prefer the low main-tenance of aluminum or plastic surfaces.

CostGenerally speaking, heavier cabinetsare more expensive. Simple moldedresin cabinets generally cost $110 or less.Laminated plywood, MDF, and particle-board cabinets range from $80 to $250

for off-the-shelf units, with custom unitspricier. Steel cabinets list from $100 to$450, with premium units going into thethousands. High-end, custom-designedcabinets may require professional assem-bly and installation, which costs more.

Guide to Base and Wall Units for Your Garage

ffJ H'$udj'

Baldhead ST 5T 5T Yes Powdercoat in six

colors; custom colors

available

52,000-$9,000 for

typical cabinets

and installation

Combined sets available;

optional work tops of 11/2"

maple or 12-ga. steelavailable

877-966-22s3baldheadcabinets.com

BH North AmericaMAXimumGarage

MDF LPB MDF Yes* Textured PVC laminate 559-5149 percomponent

All edges radiused; optional

1Yr" MDF benchtops available;

wheeled base unit available

866-325-2339

bhnorthamerica.com/ulti-mate

BH North AmericaUlti-MATE Garage

MDF LPB MDF Yes Polyurethane-coated

doors; textured PVC

laminate elsewhere

579-5249 perc0mp0nent

All edges radiused; optional

1%" MDF benchtops available;

wheeled base unit available

866-325-2339


BH North AmericaUlti-MATE Pro

MDF LPB MDF Yes Polyurethane-coated

doors; textured PVC

laminate elsewhere

599-$399 per

component

Shelves are 1"; all edges

radiused; optional 1%" MDF

benchtops available; wheeled

base unit available

866-325-2339


California Closets LPB MPB V Yes Melamine; 10 colors

available5800-$1,500 for

system

All custom components 800-274-6754

calclosets.com

ColemanTD2

LPB LPB R No Plastic laminate $70-5198 per

component

Perforated hardboard hutch

available; no workbench

available; metaledging on top

and drawer sides for strength;

metal drawer sides

800-523-3987

colemanstorage.com

Cooper CabinetSystems

MDF MPB MPB Yes Plastic laminate 51,500-$2,000 fortypical cabinetsand installation

Formerly Mitchell Cabinets;

cabinets hang on steel-rail

support system; slatwall tool

organizer over worksurface

866-321-2525

coopercabi netsystems.com

Garage StorageCabinets (cSC)

MDF LPB MPB No Melamine in three

colors

Complete systems

from 5675-51,800

DIY installation, but profes-

sional installation available;

various cabinet depths

available

866-414-4844ga ra gestora geca bi nets.com

GarageTekPlastic

PL PL W No PVC plastic $8,000 for typical

cabinets and

installation

Dealer-installed only; modular

components attach to special-

ized wall-plank system

866-664-2724

garagetek.com

Garage TekSignature Line

5T ST W Yes Powdercoat available

in four colorsS10,000 installed

for average garageDealer-installed only;

modular components attach to

specialized wall-plank system;

worksurfaces 1 %"-thick wood;

steel shelves

866-664-2724garagetek.com

24 Best-Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

Most available cabinets are strictly do-it-yourself, however, requiring little morethan a basic knowledge of hanging cabi-nets. Further, if your needs change, theentire arrangement can often be alteredor added to with more cabinetry.

When it comes to keeping costs down,there's one more option. Since garagecabinet design is based on the kitchen,don't overlook that source. Kitchen liq-uidators often discontinue cabinet linesand mark them down considerably. Also,

check with local kitchen contractors-after a new installation, many offer theold cabinets they've removed for a song.A light sanding or coat of paint may be allthey need to be transformed into a low-cost storage solution. JF

Written by A.f . Hamler

{d{,.ob

Q- H/^.;$.

S o

T""7

Gladiator 5T 5T MDF Yes** Powdercoat Welded: $150-5450per unit .

Unassembled:

598-5398 per unit

(ombined sets avai lable;

optional 1" sol id-maple

worksurface available

866-342-4089gladiatorga rageworks.com

Lista 5T 5T W Yes Powdercoat 5739-52,466 Workbench available;

several wheeled cabinets

avai lable

888-897-9050

listacabinets.com

Premier MPB MPB MDF Yes Plastic laminate About 5150 per l inear

foot

Cabinets raised to

minimize cleaning and

reduce potential for water

damage; various cabinet

depths available

866-483-4272premiergarage.com

Redline

Garage Gear

MDF MDF WorPP

Yes Powdercoat 55,500 for typical

cabinets and

instal lat ion

250 cabinet styles/sizes

available; al l cabinets are

wall-hung; professional

instal lat ion only; optional

worktops of 1V+" maple or

1 " pl iable polyurethane

877-624-2332

red linega ragegea r.com

Sears 5T 5T MDF Yes Baked enamel 5119-5379 per

c0mp0nent

(ombined sets

available

sears.com; click on tools, thengarage & tool storage

Sl ide-Lok MDF PLY LPB No Plastic laminate avai l-

able in five colors5999 and up for

average instal ls

DIY instal lat ion, butprofessional installation

avai lable; various cabinet

depths avai lable

800-835-',I759

sl ide-lok.com

Stack-On

Products

5T 5T MDF Yes Baked epoxy 51 00-S2s0 Workbench and wheeled

cabinet avai lable

800-323-9601

stack-on.com

Stanley AL A L &

PL

PL Yes Molded a luminum andpolypropylene

580 -5 1 e0 Wall-mount base units;plastic sides; various

cabinet depths avai lable

800-782-6539

sta n leyworks.com; searchgarage cabinets

Suncast PL PL PL No Plastic resin 550-5110 per

c0mp0nent

No benchtop available;

removable drawers slide

into molded slots

800-444-3310

suncaSt.c0m

MATERIAL KEY: (MPB) Melamine-coated particleboard (R) Rubber mat (.) Batt-bearing, but %-extension(Al)Aluminum (PL) Molded plastic (SI) Steel 1**) Not fuil-extension on ready-to-(LPB) Laminated particleboard (PLY) Plywood (V)Variety of options include wood and LPB assemble steel drawers(MDF) Medium-density fiberboard (PP) Pliable potyurethane (w) sotid wood

woodmagazine.com 25

ith cabinets and worksurfacesin place, a lot of tools andshop paraphernalia now have

homes. But a lot of typical garage "stuff"is too big or awkward to store incabinets. Unfortunately, things like rec-reational gear, yard equipment, andgarden tools end up leaning against thewall or in corners, consuming valuablefloor space. The trick here is to keep thatstuff easily at hand, but up and out ofthe way.

Bare drywall-or, in some cases, openframing-requires that anything hungthere be anchored to a stud. However,the typical 16" spacing of studs givesonly a limited number of vertical loca-tions (and few, if any, horizontally) formounting hooks and hangers.

A number of wall solutions are avail-able. Perforated hardboard (commonlycalled Peg-Board, a trademarked name)is a favorite for hanging hand tools.However, this doesn't provide a worthysolution for heavier tools stored in mostof today's garages.

26

Brackets and hooks can be mounted anywhere on a slatwallsystem, as in this example from storeWALL. Gravity holdsthe brackets in place, so they can easi ly be rearranged at anytime according to changing needs.

screw mounting hooks andbrackets, or hang shelveswherever you like. As youupdate your tool inven-tory, alterations are just aseasy: Just unscrew mount-ings and move them tonew positions.

Bare plywood doesn'tlook that appealing, andchanging the tool layoutlater leaves unsightly screwholes. Plywood is difficultto clean and is vulnerableto moisture from wet yardtools and dripping hoses.A couple of coats of painthelps, but that's morework. On the plus side, allthe materials you need are

inexpensive and right around the cornerat your hardware store or home center.Better yet, construction is simple. If yourbudget is limited, and you don't mind abit of maintenance, this may be yourbest ticket.

PlywoodA quick-and-easy upgrade is to attachVz" plywood to the walls, anchoring theplywood solidly to the garage's existingframework. After fastening the plywood,


i'!

i

SlatwallAt many of your favorite retail stores,you've undoubtedly seen wall panelsusing modified T-slots that accept angledbrackets. The brackets, which slip intothe slots anywhere along their lengthand are held in place by their ownweight, can be attached to a wide rangeof specialized hangers-they includesimple hooks, hangers, and bracketsdesigned for specific tools and yardimplements; hook-on baskets andshelves; and light fixtures. Most, but notall, manufacturers produce interchange-able hangers.

Slatwall has become the most popularupgrade for today's garages, and is gen-erally available in panels in many colors.Composition is of melamine-coatedMDF or rugged heavy-duty plastic.Panels range from large 4x8' sheets toindividual strips from 6-15' wide. Thepanels cut easily with a circular saw. TWo8'-long panels are ideal across the frontof most two-car garages.

A grid system, like these examples from Schulte, supportsheavy tools and shelves and is easy to adjust to meetchanging needs. The grid panels are secured to wall studs.

Metal grldworkMetal grids are similar toslatted panels in the waythey are anchored to wallstuds, but offer attach-ment points over theentire wall surface coveredby the grid. Hooks, hang-ers, shelves, and otheraccessories snap onto thegridwork, and are held inplace by gravity.

Grid panels come inseveral sizes (2x4', at about$12-$14 is the mostpopular), but colors arecurrently limited to white,black, and silver or chrome.Hangers are priced similarto slatwall hangers.

Steel panelsA third type of panelsystem consists of rigidsteel with regularly spaced

Accessories that hang inthe slots include a varietyof hooks, brackets, andshelves, plus larger piecesdesigned for specific usessuch as tool holders, partsbins, even fluorescent-lightmounts. Smaller accesso-ries, such as hooks, sell inmultipacks starting at about$4; larger accessories sellfor $7 to $24.

Rail systemsA different type of wall storage usesrails rather than panels, but sharestraits of the other panel types. Thissystem uses a vertical rail mountedsecurely into wall studs, from whichvertical slotted metal strips can behung anywhere along the rail length.

slots or acombinationof slots andholes similar to perforated Shelves, baskets, small cabinets, and ahardboard. Plain panels variety of hangers and hooks snap intocome in brushed aluminum the vertical strips.or galvanized steel. You'll Rails, slotted strips, brackets, andfind steel panels in a range hooks range from $2.50 to $12. De-of power-coated colors. Pan- pending on size, cabinets and shelvingels sized at 8x32" or 16x32" units matched to the rails range fromcan be hung singly or com- $60 to $150. .l

bined to form larger arrays, Written by A.l. Hamterand mounting holes are a_-_set at standard 16" intervals. )ourcesprices ranse rrom "uo"t ffi1"jlllfiff;LX?*,1i1'schurtestorase'com$13 to $23. schutte watt Grid: Boo-B2g-47s2,soo-66s-322s,

alternatives to perforated hardboard. Although the companyoffers a wide variety of hooks and accessories, the panelsallow the use of any third-party magnet hooks or hangers.

Depending on the material and fin-ish, slatted panels aren't cheap (about $6per square foot), whether sold individu-ally or in packages. Hanger and acces-sory prices vary widely, depending onsize and use. A package of six simplehooks goes for less than $5, while a rackfor 12 garden tools retails for about $25.

woodmagazlne.com

schultestorage.comStoreWAL[ : 866-889-2502, storewal l.comWall Control: 770-723-1251, wallcontrol.com

A rail system, like this example from FreedomRail, offers shelves, cabinets, and hangerssupported on heavy-duty vertical metalstrips secured to the wall studs.

These steel panels from Wall Control are solid, colorful

2 7

New 220V 60Abreaker for two1 10V shopcircuits and one220V circuit

220V 604 feederfrom service-entrancebreaker panel

1 10V 20Ashop circuits

220V 204tablesaw circuit

Spare circuit

1lf hop wiring requirements can vary

\widely, depending on the type ofJ proiects you tackle. If your hobbyis building radio-controlled airplanes,you may need a single convenienceoutlet for a soldering iron. But if you'reinto woodworking, you'll need someserious amperage to simultaneously runa tablesaw and dust-collection system.And if cars are your passion, you mayhave a large air compressor and weldingrig that demand wiring on nearly anindustrial scale.

But no matter your requirements, onething's for certain: You can't starve apower tool and expect it to last. Whenyou don't provide a motor with enoughpower, it runs inefficiently, temptingyou to push it harder to get the iob done.That further overheats the motor, andyou're quickly way beyond the tool'sdesigned operating range.

At that point, several things can hap-pen, and none of them are good. If youblow a circuit breaker, that's a dead give-away that the circuit is trying to delivermore amperage than it can handle. Byresetting the breaker, you continue

28

Ground-fault circuitinterrupter outlet,. first in circuit

Sub panel

Ground wire(required insome areas)

torturing the tool for a while, but itdoesn't solve the problem. In severeoverheating conditions, you mayburn the insulation off the motor'swindings or fry another compo-nent. Either way, you'll have a deadtool. If things really go wrong, /oucould start a fire.

Flgure your power needsThe unit of electrical power is calledthe ampere, usually shortened toamp.To figure the size required for atool circuit, start by looking at themotor nameplate of your mostpower-hungry tool. For discussionpurposes, let's say it's a tablesawwith a 14.2-amp motor (at llo I 720 volts).Tools often draw a surge of power atstartup, so we'll figure a 25 percent allow-ance for this by multiplying 14.2 times1.25. The result is 17.75, so a 20-ampcircuit is a good choice for this one tool.

The math remains easy even if you'llrun more than one tool simultaneouslyon a circuit-say a router and dust col-lector. Look up the nameplate amperagefor each tool, figure its surge allowance,

This electrical sub panel for a home woodshop identifies each tool's circuit. There's alsoroom to add more circuits later.

then add the requirements of the twotools. If the total exceeds 20 amps,though, you'll usually find that themost practical solution is to run eachtool on a separate circuit.

Some large motors have dual-voltagecapability: They can be wired to run ona"l,lOll20-volt circuit or on a 22Ol24O


circuit. You or the motor won't notice aparticular advantage either way. That'sbecause doubling the voltage cuts theamperage in half. In the example ofthe tablesaw motor requiring 14.2 ampsat 110 volts, wiring it for 22O powerdrops the amperage needed to 7.L.

Other power requirements in yourshop may be relatively minor, such as aradio or fan, but adding an appliance,like as a refrigerator or space heater, cancreate a serious demand on a circuit.

The circuit for the lighting shouldalways be separate from the powerreceptacles. Otherwise, if a tool trips acircuit breaker, you'll be in the dark.

For more details about shop wiring,see woodmagazine.com/stropw i ri ng.

DIY or hire an electrlcian?If you're confident in your ability toplan and install circuits, you may wantto take on the actual wiring yourself.But check first with the local govern-mental agency that issues permits andconducts inspections. Many locationsallow the homeowner to complete wir-ing chores; some require that you proveyour knowledge by first passing a test.Others absolutely prohibit the home-owner from doing wiring unless it'scompleted by a licensed electrician.

In almost all cases, electrical workrequires that you obtain a permit andhave the work inspected by a buildingofficial. If you proceed without a per-mit, you could have problems with yourhomeowner's insurance in the eventthat you need to submit a claim.

If you have doubts about your wiringskills, hire an electrician. Skilled trades-men don't work cheaply, but the peaceof mind that comes from having a prohandle the iob is worth it.

Ground-fault protectionElectrical codes may require that yourshop's outlets have protection calledGFCI (ground-fault circuit inter-rupter), particularly for installationsin a basement or garage. GFCI isdesigned to sense dangerous condi-tions and shut off the power. Thiscould prevent a serious or even fatalelectrical shock.

You can achieve GFCI protectionwith specially designed receptaclesor breakers. Either way, carefully fol-low the manufacturer's installationinstructions to ensure protection.Check the breaker or receptaclemonthly by pushing the test button.

Extenslon cord cautlonsShort and fat may not describe theideal body type, but it's a good rule ofthumb for choosing an extensioncord. "Short" means picking a cordthat's no longer than necessarybecause long cords can cause a loss ofvoltage. uEat" means wires with alarge cross section, enabling the con-ductorto carrymore power. The gaugenumbering system for electrical wiresis counterintuitive: the smaller thenumber, the larger the wire. Forexample, 1O-gauge wire is substan-tially larger than l4-gauge.

If you're doing projects outdoors,make certain that you plug yourextension cord into an outlet withGFCI protection. Some outdoor cordsinclude GFCI protection plus a multi-ple outlet block that allows you tohave several tools connected at once.

See the extension cord chart belowor refer to your tool's owner's manualfor selection advice. Here are othercautions about extension cords:

Never walk on a cord or roll wheeledobiects over it. That can stress or breakthe insulation or even the wire itself.Never use an extension cord that'stightty coiled on a storage reel becausethat can create an undesired electricalfield. (Think of the motor you made inschool by winding copper wire arounda nail.) Instead, fully unwind the cordbefore use. I

A ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) duplexoutlet can provide valuable protection againstelectrical shock.

Buy high-quality extension cords, and protectthem from abrasion to keep your tools runningstrong. This pigtail model includes a GFCI.

A fluorescent light on a retractable reel givesyour home shop a professional look andeliminates tangled extension cords.

3-4 18 gauge 18 gauge 16 gauge

4-5 18 gauge 18 gauge 14 gauge

5-6 18 gauge '

16 gauge 14 gauge

6-8 18 gauge 16 gauge .12 gauge

8-10 18 gauge 14 gauge 12 gauge10-12 16 gauge 14 gauge 10 gauge

12-14 14 gauge 12 gauge 10 gauge14-16

Extension Cord Recommendations

Up to 3 18 gauge 18 gauge 16 gauge

woodmagazine.com

14 gauge 12 gauge 10 gauge

29

trri

.i\

hen i t comes to energy-eff icient l ighting, i t 's toughto beat natural dayl ight. Of

course, you rnay need to tnake an invest-

rnent or two to get it into your shop, but

after that, i t 's virtual ly al l benefi t .If you have a garage workshop, for

exarnple, adding a window or two-or

even rnore-wil l make a dramatic dif fer-

ence. I f the walls in your garage have

exposed frarning, putt ing in the headers

and frarning the openings for new

windows is a straightforward task,whether you tackle i t yourself or delegate

it to a contractor.I f your garage is detached frorn the

house, you needn't be f inicky abottt

rnatching its style of windows to yottr

house. That opens up the cl-tct ices to

include less-expensive stock windows

frorn a home center.Or, i f you're not in a big hurry to get

your windows, contact the big-box storesand other window suppliers in your

area, asking them to let you know when

they have bargains avai lable. These can

include closeouts, "scratch-and-dent"

3 0

iterns, or custotn orders where the speci-

f icat ions got garbled. Retai lers often

slash prices dratnatical ly on these i tetns,

and you pocket the savings.

Task l ighting is essentialThe level of overal l i l lurnination in a

shop is cal led "arnbient l ighting," and i t

rnust provide sufficient brightness to

enable you to rlove about safely and

perfonn a range of tasks.But when it comes to close work-

t ight-tolerance lneasuring and rnarking,

for exarnple-you need to purnp up the

arnount of light to give yourself a betterview. This type is l ighting is cal led "task

l ighting." You' l l want to permanently

irrstal l task l ights at some locations and

also have portable sources, both for shop

and on-location use.A workbench is one logical location

for f ixed task l ighting. You can posit ion

a f luorescent or halogen-str ip f ixture

above your bench for i l luminating the

ent i re area. Or ins ta l l a can is ter f ix ture

at a cri t ical location: above a frequently

used bench vise, for exatnple. ' frack

l ights give you f lexibi l i ty to tai lor i l lu-

mination alurost instantl lz to t l-re chore

at hand-an excel lent choice i f your

shop handles a wide range of repair and

construction chores. You' l l want to posi-

t ion the track l ights high enough so

they aren't in the way, yet low enough to

permit easy adjustment.

An ar t icu la ted-arm lamp is an inexpens iveand handy task- l ight ing source for your shop.


Halogen work lamps on stands are versati lein your shop as well at remodeling sites.

Dedicated and movabletask-lighting choicesSome workshop tools tend to blockambient light that provides a clear viewof your work. So it makes sense to pur-chase accessory lighting fixtures andinstall them at the machine. A dril lpress and bandsaw are two populartools that fit into this category. Agrinder and scrollsaw also would ben-efit from this special treatment.

Movable task lighting offers anothersolution. This can include a goose-necked desk lamp (from office-supplystores) that you can mount on yourbench to drench sharpening choreswith light or as "raking" light (grazinga project at a low angle) to inspect thesurface while you apply a finish.

Another useful movable lightingchoice is an articulated-arm fixture(opposite; think drafting-table lamp).This type, also readily available atoffice-supply stores, usually includes aclamp-on base. However, by drillingmounting holes in work surfacesthroughout your shop, you make it easyto move the lamp wherever needed.Many of these fixtures use standard-base lightbulbs, making it simple toswitch to a CFL (compact fluorescentlamps) and enioy energy savings.

Some articulated lamps instead uti-lize circular fluorescent lamps andincorporate magnifying lenses thatimprove your view of tiny assemblies.If you're into detailed work, you'llfind this combination a convenience.

woodmagazine.com

Haloqen lamps solvebiggEr problbmsHalogen lamps provide power-ful lighting within your shop aswell as throughout your homeduring remodeling projects. Youcan purchase an individuallamp with an integral stand, orbuy one or more lamps mountedon stands, as shown left. (Manyinclude adjustable tripod bases.)Some lamps have dual-levellighting: Click once for 500 wattsof power, and click again to boostto 1,000 watts.

Paint makes adifference

shop. You'll make your work areabrighter-and even seem larger-bychoosing white or other light-reflectivetones whenever possible. It's best toavoid glossy finishes, though, becausethe glare can be distracting and causeeyestrain.

Brightening your floor with a durablecoating is another way to maximize thelight in your shop, provided that youstay with the lighter tones. See page 20for more information about choosingand applying a floor finish.

Energy-efficient lampsIncandescent lamps have changed littlein the past 100 years, but the system isnot efficient. (A considerable amount ofenergy is wasted as heat.) Fluorescentlamps utilize more energy-efficient

technology. As a result, the lamps staycooler and consume only about one-fourth the energy of incandescents ofthe same light level. As an added bene-fit, the lamps last about 10 times longer,slashing replacement expense as well asthe annoyance of changing them.

The new T8 style of fluorescent tubehas a smaller diameter than the T12,which will be phased out of production.The T8 fixture is also more energy effi-cient, so choose this style if you're in themarket for new tubular fluorescents.

CFLs, in the curlicue configuration oranother shape, allow you to re-lampexisting fixtures and enioy considerableenergy and cost savings. If you haverecessed ceiling canisters in your shop,look for CFLs in a style that closelyresembles standard reflector lamps. cP

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Dark colors on walls' ceilings' compact fruorescent rampsand other surfaces can seem to varietyof fixturetypes.suck all of the light from your

%lF*(CFLs)save money in a

When your hands are full, groping for a l ight switchwith your elbow is a definite nuisance. That's wherea motion-sensor l ight switch helps: lt "sees" yourmotion and turns on the l ights for you. Even better,when the sensor fails to detect motion for a time, itturns off the power. (You set the length of the timedelay by adjusting a screw hidden under a panel onthe switch.)

This type of switch isn't recommended as a controlfor the main l ighting in your shop because it would beinconvenient and dangerous for the l ights to go outwhile power tools are whirring. But it 's perfect forsteps and hallways leading to your shop, as well asstorage closets.

Read the specifications of the switch carefullybefore you buy it. Many wil l handle both fluorescentand incandescent lamps but not compact f luorescents.

A motion switch turns outthe lights automatically, auseful feature when yourhands are ful l .

31

Energy Efficiencyfor Your Shop

aking a shop warm is a rela-tively straightforward task,and you have bushels of

choices: from portable electric heaters tostoves that burn wood, biomass pellets,or even corn. (No, it doesn't pop.)

But making a shop into the comfort-able and inviting retreat that you wantrequires more than raw Btus. To makeyour energy dollars more efficient, you'llwant to make sure that your shop haswell-insulated sidewalls. And if yourshop is in a garage or freestandingbuild-ing, be certain that the attic space aboveit has adequate insulation. In addition,you'll also need to plan for air move-ment within your shop.

Transform concrete lnto awarm and reslllent surfaceIf standing on a cold concrete slabkeeps you out of your shop or garage, amodular air-gap system, such as DRI-Core, above, quickly and easily creates a

32

vapor barrier and insulating air gapabove the concrete surface. As an addedbonus, the new resilient floor reducesleg fatigue. As a result, you'll discoverthat your shop time is far less tiring.

The 2x2' tongue-and-groove panels areeasy to transport and simple to install. Youcan cut and drill the panels with power andhand tools. Place %" spacers along theperimeter of the room and around fixedobstructions, then tap the panel edgestogether using a hammer and block ofwood. For maximum strengtfi stagger.the.joints between rows in a brick-bond pat-tem. At low spots, use the company's plasticshims to level an uneven shop floor.

For shop use, you can leave theoriented-strand-board (OSB) surface asis, or apply a stain, sealer, or paint. Ifyou ever convert the space into a livingarea, the system serves as an excellentsubfloor for carpet, or "floating" installa-tions such as laminate or engineeredwood flooring.

When installed over a concretefloor, a modular air-gap systemcreates a vapor barrier andinsulating air gap. The 2x2'DRlCore panels slide together.The inset image aboveshowsthe air gaps.

The panels have an impressive loadrating of 5,000 pounds per square foot,and have a low retail price of about$1.50 per square foot. For more detailsabout air-gap flooring, see page 20.

Choose the rloht tvre andamount of iniulatiohWhether you're building from scratchor want to upgrade the energy efficiencyof your existing shop, you need to knowthe recommended levels of insulationfor your part of the country. Energy Staris a joint program of the United StatesEnvironmental Protection Agency andthe Department of Energy. The prograrngoal is to help people save money andprotect the environment throughenergy-efficient practices and products.

Energy Star estimates that a knowl-edgeable homeowner or contractor cansave up to 2Oo/o on annual heating andcooling costs while enjoying additionalcomfort as well as the savings. For more


lnsulation Recommendations for ExistingWood-Frame Houses

|zo,.;r h-t"d." l^ | Hawaii , Cuam, IC

I Puerto Rico, and II

the Virgin lslands I

Wall Insulation:Whenever exterior siding is removed on anuninsulated wood-frame wall:

. Dri l l holes in the sheathing and blowinsulat ion into the empty wall cavity beforeins ta l l ing the new s id ing .

o Zones 3-4: Add R5 insulat ive wall sheathingbeneath the new siding.o Zones 5-8: Add R5 to R6 insulat ive wall

sheathing beneath the new siding.Insulated wood-frame wall:

r For Zones 4-8: Add R5 insulat ive wallsheathing beneath the new siding.

Add Insulatl,on to Attlc

ZoneUninsulated

AtticExist inq 3-4 inches

of i isulat ion Floor1 R30 to R49 R25 to R30 Rl32 R30 to R60 R25 to R38 R'13 to R193 R30 to R60 R25 to R38 Rl9 to R25

4 R38 to R60 R38 R25 to R305 t o 8 R49 to R60 R38 to R49 R25 to R30

details, visit the Energy Star Web site(energystar.gov).

Insulation amounts are specified byR-value, which is a measure of theinsulation's ability to resist the move-ment of heat traveling though it. Thelarger the R-value, the greater theinsulating ability of the material. Referto the USA map and chart above forrecommended R-values in your climateregion of the country.

Start by sealing air leahsMost air leaks are easy to find becauseyou'll feel them as cold drafts in thewintertime. A stick of incense is anotherway to help you find an air leak. You'llsee the gentle smoke trail deflected byeven the tiniest air leak. Likely locationsto begin your investigation includewindows and outside doors, as well aselectrical switchplates and sockets.

Seal leaks around electrical deviceswith inexpensive closed-cell foam seal-ers. (Shop in the weather-stripping aisleof your hardware store or home center.)

Around doors, examine weather-stripping at the top and sides of thedoor. Don't neglect the seal and sweepat the bottom of the door.

For tight spaces, aerosol foam sealantperforms well. (Great Stuff and DAPproducts are distributed nationwide.)Use the ordinary variety for general-

woodmagazlne.com

purpose sealing, but purchase the low-expansion formulation for improvementsaround the frames of doors and win-dows. That's because the standardformulation can expand too aggressivelyin these applications, and could evenbow the iambs, making it difficult tooperate your windows and doors.

Duct sealing is another importantstep. If your home's ductwork is accessi-ble (in an attic, basement, or crawl space,for example), seal the joints with a spe-cial duct sealer (also called duct mastic)to help eliminate the loss of heated orcooled air. Don't rely on ordinary ducttape because it simply doesn't have thesealing ability to deliver the energy-saving results you want.

Fiberqlass and otherinsuliting choicesFiberglass offers an affordable and widelyavailable form of insulation. You'll findit in 1-6" or 24" widths suitable for studsor ioists that are spaced on center. Somebatts come factory-cut for standard stud-bay lengths so that you don't need totrim each batt; other fiberglass productscome as a continuous roll.

As a final consideration, choosewhether you want the fiberglass to havea kraft paper facing. In most areas of theUnited States, the paper faces the livingspace. However, in some humid locations

(such as the Gulf Coast), the paper facesoutdoors. Check with your building-regulation official for which orientationis appropriate for your location.

You'll also find expanded polystyrene(Styrofoam is one brand) in sheet thick-nesses at your local home center. Thematerial easily cuts with a handsaw. Ifyou need to glue these panels in place,select an adhesive specifically approvedfor the application.

You'll be a fan of this ldeaUnless your shop has an air-circulationsystem, the area will probably sufferfrom hot and cold spots, air that settlesinto temperature layers, and moisture-laden air that collects in corners andother dead areas. Stale air can producea musty smell or even bloom into aserious mold infestation. Moving theair helps solve those problems, and itcan also relieve a claustrophobic feelingin small shops.

If your shop has a high ceiling, con-sider a ceiling fan. Manufacturers'Websites will help match your shop's vol-ume with the recommended number offans, their blade diameters, and mount-ing heights. In warm weather, you runthe fan so that it blows downwardon you, creating a cooling evaporative"wind chill" effect. Reverse the fan'srotation in cold weather to harvestwarm air from the top of the room andguide it down the walls without creat-ing a draft. Both ways, you'll be morecomfortable. |F

This Hunter fan, designed to hang from aceiling joist, circulates the air in your shopwithout subtracting floor space.

hurcesDRlCore : d ricore.com; B 66-976-6374Energy Star: energystar.govHunter: hunterfan.com; 888-830{ 326

3 3

This N95 half mask respirator by AO Safety weighs less than 5 ounces,has dual exhalat ion valves, and uses replaceable f i l ter elements. Thesoft rubber body seals wellwithout chafing.

Air You Breathe

Keep lburShop andLungs CleanYou probably already know that dust control isan important health issue: Inhaling extremelyfine particles can lead to respiratory problems.

The front llne ofdust defenseThe best starting place for dust collec-tion is at the source: at your tablesaw,router, sander, or other tool. Many ofthese already have dust ports, simplify-ing the connection to a dust collector orshop vacuum.

Installing a central dust-collectionsystem can be an excellent strategythat's convenient to use. But properlydesigning and sizing your systeminvolves a host of variables: the range oftools you own, your shop's size and lay-out, and even the types of hoses andductwork you'll use.

We can't cover that breadth in a coupleof pages, but we can guide you to anexcellent resource. Visit the WOOD@magazine online searchable index(tt,ootlrt iaglrzinr,conr/irrcler), and enterthe words "dust collection." You'll find a

A dust collectormay use a clothbag or canisterfilter. Many haveheavy plastic bagsfor chip collection,simpli fyingdisposal.

listing of articles that walk you throughthe design process, provide productreviews of dust collectors, and open upadditional resources. If you don't have aback-issue collection, /ou can easilydownload many of the articles for anominal fee.

our dust-control strategy shouldideally consist of several elements:a central or portable dust collec-

tor, a portable shop vacuum or dustextractor, an exhaust f.an, a ceiling-mounted air-filtration unit, and a respi-rator. When you look at the price tags ondust-control equipment, you may betempted to avoid these purchases andsimply let the chips fall where they may.Don't be penny-wise and pound-foolish:You can't buy much health care for theprice of effective dust control.

Small dust particles carry more poten-tial danger than large chunks. For exam-ple, some dust collectors capture particlesdown to 30 microns in size. This soundsfairly impressive because a micron is one-millionth of a meter. But larger particlessimply drop harmlessly to the floor, sothe real health risks start at the 3O-micronand smaller size.

34

FF

I


il

Portable shop vacuumvs. dust extrictor

Clean air in the shop isn'ta matter of being finicky-it's vitalto goodhealth. A cei l ing-mounted cleaner, l ike thisJDS model, can deliver excellent results.

Dlspose of alrborne dustIn addition to a dust-collection system,invest in an air-filtration system thatcontinually pulls those floating dustparticles out of the air before they reachyour lungs. A ceiling-mounted unit is agreat solution if your shop has adequateheadroom. The one pictured above hasmultiple filtration stages to remove 99oloof dust particles down to 5 microns insize, and even 91olo of particles down to1 micron.

A number of manufacturers producethese air-filtrations systems in a range ofsizes to suit your shop's needs. One multi-tasking model from Delta incorporates awork light into the bottom of the unit.Hanging it above a tablesaw, which isusually in the middle of a shop, enhancesboth sight and breathing.

Instead of scrubbing and recirculatingthe air within your shop, |ou may wantto simply export the problem outdoorsby opening your garage doors or addingan exhaust fan. (Forget about the kindof fan that's usually installed in bath-rooms-it simply won't move enoughair to be effective.)

Pop rivets secure a fan framework made fromstandard aluminum extrusions avai lable atmost hardware stores.

woodmagazlne.com

For a simple, low-tech solu-tion, secure a window or box-type fan in an open window inyour shop. (To purchase plansfor the setup shown below left,see woodmagazine.com /fa n.)

If possible, choose a totallyenclosed motor because it will

survive well in a dusty location. Aneven better alternative-though sub-stantially more expensive-is a motorthat carries an explosion-proof rating.This type helps provide valuable insur-ance against accidental ignition due todust and solvents.

A portable dustextractor tamesdust-collectionproblems in yourshop as wellas at job sitesthroughoutyour home.

Hooking up a tool to an ordinaryshop vacuum helps prevent a cloud ofdust from filling up your shop. Butattaching that same tool to a dust extrac-tor can make a healthy difference. Forexample, the HEPA-rated dust extractorabove traps particles down to 0.3 microns.(HEPA means High Efficiency ParticleAttenuation.) An extractor generally hasa smaller footprint than a shop vacuum.

Of course, performance like thatcarries a price tag (about $350 retail)substantially higher than ordinary shopvacuums (about $125). If you're notquite ready to invest in a dust extractor,at least search out a more effective after-market filter for your shop vacuum thanthe one shipped as standard equipment.

The resplrator: Yourlast lind of defenseSome woodworking operations gener-ate so much fine dust-machiningmedium-density fiberboard (MDF) orsanding on the lathe, for example-thatit's nearly impossible to capture enoughof it through standard collection meth-ods. In those cases, wear a respiratorover your nose and mouth.

Choose a disposablerespirator with theN95 designationfor good protectionagainst airbornewood dust.

A single-strap nuisancemask provides littleprotection fromairborne dust. r

If you want a disposable respirator,look for one that meets the NIOSH 95standard (often abbreviated as N95), forparticles down to 0.3 microns. (See photofop.) Most of these respirators have theshell style similar to a "nuisance dustmask," above, but the N95 is far moreeffective than the one-strap model.A respirator with an exhalation valvemakes it easier to breathe. You'llalso finda pleated design that claims even easierbreathing and improved visibility.

A half-mask single- or dual-cartridgerespirator (shown opposite) offers evenmore protection. A dual-cartridge modelprotects your lungs from the solvents andparticles of sprayed finishes. Choose theproper pre-filters and cartridge elementsto match the material you're using. Q

SourcerAO Safety: aearo.comFein : 800-441 -9878, feinus.comI DS : 800-480-726t jdstools.comf et : 800-274-6848, jettools.com

lf metalworking is part of your shop,you need to protect yourself fromfine particles generated by sawing,grinding, and other operations. Thefumes produced by welding add

'.

another level of concerns. Checkwith mail-order sources or a localsafety suppiier to ensure that yourdefensive strategies are appropriatefor the metals you work and theprocedures you use.

35

fiarageMakeoverBurgundy cabinets and organizedwalls transform an ordinary garageinto an extension of a car guy't home,

The epoxy floor was peeling up in flakes, open shelves were a distracting clutter,

and garden tools were chained to the wall to prevent another one falling onto the

hood of a car. But that's all in the past after this homeowner upgraded his garage.

Does every tool have its place? You bet!

36

here are garages and then thereare garages. If you baby every-thing from your car or pickup

truck to your favorite 2r/2"-wide Purdypaintbrush, there's good reason toinvest in a garage upgrade. In fact,organizing a garage may be the lastfrontier in home-improvement projectsfor many households.


lf you can see it,you can find itDon't you hate it when you can't find ashovel among your jumble of gardentools? Or when that darned string trim-mer falls off the wall and smashes ontoyour car hood?

If that sounds like your garage, it'stime to restore order with a wall sys-tem. (For a more complete look at wallsystems, see page 26.)

One inexpensive option is a singlestrip of hooks and hangers that fitsmany garden tools. Although inexpen-sive, this solution doesn't make the bestuse of space.

Wall systems, like the storeWALLunits shown at right, allow more flexi-bility than a traditional linear strip ofhangers provides. Most manufacturersoffer just about any hook under the sunfor odd-shaped equipment, includingleaf blowers, string trimmers, wheel-barrows, and garden hose.

These wall systems have alsobecome popular with sports-minded families desperate for asolution to a mountain of golfbags, tennis racquets, basketballs,and whatever else gets piled up inan active family's garage.

Before you begin hanging any-thing on the wall, Todd Walker,owner of a garage and storagestore, suggests removing every-thing from the garage and assess-ing what you really value. Heprovides a 24' trailer for custom-ers to temporarily store garagecontents while the garage floor isbeing prepared. This usuallymeans calling a family summitto claim all the tools and sportsequipment worth keeping. Whatdoesn't find a home in the "new"garage should be donated to char-ity or hauled away.Written by Carl Voss

Eight-foot long sections of an interlocking tracksystem (abovel by storeWALL attach quickly to lineone wall of the garage.

After se(uing and leveling the top and bottom 2'Lwide steel rails, Joe M<Guirefits the notched cabinet end piece against the wall (teft). Once alltheframes are assembled,Jake Berhow begins hanging the doors (certer). Double ball-bearing drawer slides screw into factory-drilled holes (frght).

Cabinets: What youneed to stash avlayIt's ideal to place yard and garden toolson hooks across the front or along theside of a garage. However, lots of othergarage items belong behind doors orin drawers. In this homeowner's case,he selected burgundy cabinets for hiscar-care products (below right), gardensprays, and do-it-yourself supplies. Atwo-man crew installed 16 lineal feetof cabinets and drawers in five hours.

The Redline Garage Gear cabinets(redlinegaragegear.com) are powder-coated MDF and should provide yearsof service. Because the base cabinets aremounted on the wall and not resting onthe floor, homeowners can hose downthe garage floor and not worry aboutdamaging the cabinetry or contents.(Many of the companies listed on pages24-25 also offer wall-hanging cabinets.)

woodmagazlne.com

A new 6'-long workbench be-neath a garage window providesthe homeowner with the space heneeds to spread out his proiects.He chose a bench surface coatedwith black urethane (the sametough material as a spray-on truck-bed liner) that should withstandeven the most powerful solvent inhis cleaning arsenal.

The homeowner loaded most ofhis auto-mechanic's tools into amobile tool chest (see otherexamples on page 106) and founda home for home improvementtools in his new drawers beneaththe workbench.

The dovetailed drawers in thissystem are constructed from 9-plyhardwood plywood, and travelsmoothly on double ball-bearingfull-extension drawer slides.i

Learn from these professional applicators as they sharetheir secrets for putting down a high-quality epoxy floor.

Stirring up a batch of two-part epoxy is the easy part of applying a new garage-floor covering.The hard part is avoiding the temptation to take shortcuts in the recommended preparationsteps. Here are tips from professionals that will keep your floor lookingas good two decades from now as it does on Day 0ne.

1f, ccording to Todd Walker, owner of Absolute Garage in Des Moines, Iowa,

tl about 50 percent of his business is applying epoxy floors to home garages.u l"Concrete wasn't made to be coated," Todd explains. "So to get it right, youhave to trick the concrete." That means properly preparing the concrete to bondwith the epoxy. In the case of this car buff's garage, his builder passed along incor-rect advice about new concrete not needing preparation before the first coat ofepoxy. The homeowner's attempt to fix the.first application with two additionalcoats of epoxy compounded the problem; the epoxy began peeling off in chunks.That's when the homeowner threw in the towel and called in the pros. Removingthe old epoxy proved to be a 32-man-hour iob. The new floor? Just 10 man-hours.

38

No shortcutsA long-lasting epoxy floor requiresproper preparation of the concretesurface. First, remove every bit of thethree layers of epoxy previouslyapplied by the homeowner. A powerscraper above (available from rentalstores at about $60 a duy), peels upthe layers of epoxy.


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Establ ishing a good bond between thecpoxy and conctete requires opelt ingthe pores of the concrete.

' l 'his holds

true even with new concrete (a stepciverlooked by some homeowners). Etch-ing with muriat ic acid is an optionwi th new concrete . In th is c tase, an B"-d iarneter gr inder (ava i lab le a t renta ls torcs) rernoves any s tubborn epoxyand prepares the concrete for properadhesion. The shot blaster, a specialtyrnachine, obot,e, pounds the surface witht iny pel lets. The photos r1glrf show twostages of the shot-blasted f loor prepara-t ion and the f inished surface.

f:lrirfil

' l 'hc rnost colrtnon preparation is

with rnuriat ic acid (avai lable at hornccenters ancl paint stores) or Quikrete(l leaner. You' l l see the acid bubblingaway on the concrete and srnel l theeffects of something sin-r i lar to rottencggs. Be strre to venti late your basementor garage properly, and thoroughlywater-r inse t l ' re acid. Wait at least 24hours before applying epoxy to be surethe concrete is cornpletely dry.

I f you rnust rclnove old paint or epoxybefore applying a new coat, fol low thet ips descr ibed on these pages. I f you ' redoing this yourself, plan for two days ofpreparation for a two-car garage.

Your f loor wi l l have a srnootherappearance i f you take t irne to f i l l cracksand the concrete saw cuts, as shown atr i3lrt . Although solnc homeowners aresat is f ied wi th premiurn-qual i ty cau lk-ing,

' lbdd prefers a slurry of patching

epoxy corr lpound. "The problern withcaulk is that eventual ly i t wi l l crack dur-ing expans ion and cont ract ion. Thenyour eycs go r ight to the crackl I f thegarage is on stable ground, I 'vc foundthat epoxy is less prone to crack ing. Justtake your t i r re , and do a good job. "

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A hammer and ch ise l remove the top layer o fcau lk . A r ight -angle gr inder removes the caulkdown to about 72". (Grinder guard removedfor clari ty.)

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A s lu r ry o f pa tch ing epoxy compound rep lacescau lk and ho lds up we l l t o seasona l expans ionand contract ion of the f loor.

, \ n 'e l l -prcparc .d epoxy garage f loor is as ight to behold . Unfor tunate lv , sor rehonreowners who apply epoxy them-selves eithel receirre incornpletc ;rdviceor rusl-r through t l-rc. stcps t l-rat wi l lensLrre a long- las t ing f loor .

I f an epoxy f loor seel.ns r ight for you,kcep in rnind that thcr 'e are severalgrades of epoxy. (For rnore detai ls, see

ltogc 20.) Top epoxy grades contain rroresol ids-the good stuff you want on youlf loor.

' lbdd, the applicator frorn Des

Moines, uses indust r ia l -qua l i ty productswhether he 's work ing on a two-cargarage or a sprawl ing a i rp lanc hangar .The top products are k inder to the nctscdur ing cur ing, too.

Regardless of your epox\/ buclgct,make the rnost of your invcstrncnt byfol lowing recomlnended prcltarat ionsteps. A good toot l - r (bonc l ) -openingup the concrete pores so the cpoxy hassornething to grab on to-is what drivcsthorough preparation. Wit l-rout a goodtooth, you are apt to see the coatingbubble up. Th is is espec ia l ly ev ident i fyou drive a ctar with hot t i res onto apoorly preppcd f loor.

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To establ ish a crisp edge of epoxyat the garage door, Todd rolls outZ"-wide painter 's tape direct ly belowthe garage door. Then a second layerof tape goes on top of the f irst. Tomake sure the tape is sealed well ,Todd suggests running a putty knifeor drywal l too l over the tape; th iswil l prevent the epoxy from creep-ing beneath the tape.

To stand up against wear from at thegarage door, Todd creates extra-deeptrough of epoxy using a r ight-anglegrinder and a diamond wheel, asshown at rigltt.

With the f loor back to Square One,the fun begins. And what could bemore fun than a rose-colored f loor?

Cut in the edges of the f loor with abrush (page 3B), then rol l on theepoxy with a 3/a" nap cover. Profes-sionals use an 18"-wide rol ler (twicethe width of the standard rol ler).Most epoxy applications require twocoats to cover.

While the f irst coat of 2-part epoxyis st i l l wet, Todd and his crew sprinklea custom rose-colored quartz (sand)over the entire 500-square-foot f loorto provide addit ional tract ion. (Whatquartz doesn't stick gets swept up andsprinkled later over the second coatof wet epoxy.) After the f inal epoxycoat cures, a coat of satin polyure-thane tops of f the pro ject . a l

Written bv Carl Voss

To create addit ional depth for the epoxy coat beneath the overhead door), remove about l / to" ofconcrete with a r ight-angle grinder and a diamond wheel. Two layers of 2"-wide blue painter 'stape create a crisp edge to the epoxy.

Joe spreads the f irst coat of red epoxy with a 24"-wide squeegee. While the epoxy is st i l l wet, heuses an 18"-wide rol ler (twice the standard width)to even the coat. Strap-on cleats (similar to agolf shoe pattern) make walking easier on the wet epoxy.

While the f irst coat of epoxy is st i l l wet,Joe McGuire dusts the entire garage f loor withrose-colored quartz.

40

After the f irst coat cures overnight, ToddWalker sweeps up the loose rose-coloredquartz that wasn't embedded in the epoxy.

Final ly, Joe spreads a thin coat of clearpolyurethane over the second coat of curedepoxy. The polyurethane adds luster.


Buy 2 u morc WmD bools alfl get 365+ Grcat Snu fins BH!These top-selling books from the editors of W00D offer in-depth information that willhelp you master many woodworking fundamentals and give you endless proiect ideas.You'll find professional advice, tips, charts, tables, diagrams, plans, patterns, and much more.A must-have for woodworkers of all levels.

FREE 365+ Grcat Shop llp brings you woodworking wisdom from clamping to sawing andsanding to finishing. All tips are illustrated to clearly show how this shop-proven information can be put to use inyour shop, saving you time, money, and materials. (a $12,95 ualue) FREE!

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planterc to arborc, benches, chairs, andtables, it's all herc. Isam to build projecbffiat last and last in ffie elemenb.

and r0trter hble. Safely make clean cubusing shop-made jigs and today's mostinnovative and intercsting bits.

the wood conectly and choosing theproducts and application methods thatyi eld can't-f ai I re sults.

to build 19 stonge projecb fiom cabinets apply ffiem in wtting my of these 50+ that store every trinket and trto shelving to display cases. pattems for fun and pnctical projects. imaginable.

All books are full-color, from 176 to 192 pages, and sell for $19.95 each.

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How to Unstuff aGarage in 2 DrysFrom a shambles toshipshape-we used amodest budget and aboatload of great ideasto restore order to areadert disastrouslyunorganized garageshop. Adapt these sameideas in your shop tocreate an ord erly spacewith ample room tomove around.

-/-

he mission: Demonstrate thatyour dream workshop may becloser, and more affordable, than

you think. To prove it's possible, wevisited the shop of WOOD@ magazinereader and Seattle woodworker MarkLea. Upon first inspection, his one-cargarage shop looked more like a storagelocker (see the photo above rrsht) than afunctioning workshop. But after a sin-gle weekend, and for less than $1,000,we transformed Mark's shop into amodel of efficiency that even he barelyrecognized. To accomplish this feat, thefive basic organizational principles(opposite page) were used to put thingsin order. NoW equipped with the ideasfound here, you can do the same.

42 Best-Ever Home Shoo ldeas 2009

'1

5 basic principles ofworkshop organizationMobil l ty-This makes a small shop work l ike a large one. To createmobil i ty, mobile bases were added to Mark's tablesaw 8" jointer,and 14" bandsaw. (The router, belt /disc sander, and planer alreadyhad wheels.) When the countertops and mitersaw stat ion alongone wall were added, result ing recesses served to house Mark'slarge jointer and rol l-around cabinets. After two days, his shop hadonly three wheelless tools (the workbench, mitersaw stat ion, anddri l l press).

Flexibility-Needs change from project to project andwith each new tool purchase. The "Versa-cab" (see page 46)offers the maximum in f lexibi l i ty. Shelves and drawers canbe quickly relocated to meet changing storage needs. The Tri tonlumber-rack system (page 45) has movable arms. The large toolrecess in the corner accommodates either Mark's mobile jointer orhis mobile tablesaw.

Accessibi l i ty-Organization means l i t t le i f you can't get to thingseasi ly. To create accessibi l i ty, we opened up Mark's f loor space bycreating sensible homes for al l the large tools. (See the shop f loorplan on page 44.) The open f loor space dramatical ly improves work-flow, providing obstruction-free access to all parts of Mark's shop.

Durabi l i ty-There's no point to doing the work i f i t 's not goingto last. For the shop's worksurfaces, birch plywood was used withhardwood edge strips; for the cabinetty, 3/+" MDF with heavy-duty hardware. Mobile bases, made of welded steel for maximumstrength and durabi l i ty, made moving large, heavy tools easy.For protection of the bare wood surfaces of Mark's countertopsand cabinets, he' l l need to apply at least two coats of oi l-basedpolyurethane to ensure last ing material stabi l i ty.

Affordabil i ty- ln addit ion to making sure that the shop com-ponents last, purchasing them at a low or reasonable price alsoproved important. (See "Where the money went" on page 49.) lnMark's shop, al l the materials for the cabinetry and countertop costless t lran 5440 for f ive cabinets, mult iple drawers and shelving, andmore than 32 square feet of countertop. Less than S40 was spent onthe plywood holder.

For a grid and tooltemplates to begin planning your shop, seewood magazine.com/shoplayout.

43woodmagazine.com

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slrst, &ffi dlvervi€trysrf tfue sh*;* trverh;I#fiTo best show you the improvements to Mark'sshop, here's a diagram of the f loor plan, plusphotos that say i t a l l . Use the project draw-ings shown throughout this article to buildthe key components.

Project l: vf;ftss- f&rt sv$T*ru*This customizable cabinet system, dubbed the"Versa-cab" (see page 46 for the plan), worksas a wall or base cabinet. The cabinet's 15%"-deep top serves as a shelf for tool cases.

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Proiect 2l M rr[ft $AW wonxsrArtrlr*rMore than 32 square feet of countertop, not including themitersaw platform, were added to Mark's shop. As you cansee from the photos, none of the space, either above or belowthe countertop, is wasted. Most mitersaws benefit when theyhave permanent homes with plenty of work support on ei-ther side. Our mitersaw platform, supported by neigh-boring "Versa-cab" base cabinets, is deceptively simple tobuild, and effective in function. (See page 47 for the plan.)

MobilebelUdiscsander

Versa-cab

Sheet-goods rack

Dowelstorage

Mobile FLOOR PLANtool

cabinet

Mitersawstation

Lumberrack

Mobilebandsaw

Mobile routertable under

bench

Mobile tool cabinetunder bench

Overhead door

Project 3: sm*.r.r ccs#s KA{KA long but shal low rack al lows Mark to storeful l-size and part ial sheet goods in spite ofthe shop's l imited cei l ing height of 7' 9". (Seepage 48 for the plan.) It includes a hinged con-tainment stretcher for easy material removal.We even threw in extra storage for dowel rodsthat come in the form of two spaced sectionsof heavy-duty carpet tubing.

MOBILE BASES Three HTC mobile bases added to thelarger power tools signif icantly improved Mark'sworkshop mobil i ty. (chwilke.com or cal l 7'17-764-5000)


d ;

ProjectTwo sirnple wall cabinets perchecl above the counter-tops rnake a htrge dif ference in t l-re sntal l shop'sava i lab le s torage space. Becat rse sur facc- rnounted conc lu i tpreventecl us frorn r-r-rounting the calt inets togcther, weused the oppor tun i ty to adc i ad j t rs tab le she lv ing betweer- rthe t rvo. As a f ina l touc l - r , shop brus l - res (not sec.n in th isplroto) f ind a hancly home on thc cabinet sicle' . (See po;gc 19for const ruct ion deta i ls . )

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LUMBER RACK Tr i ton ' s s tu rdy lumber rack , moun ted above thecountertop, leaves Mark plenty of room for "current project"ma te r ia l , and those spec ia l boards se t as ide fo r an he i r l oom tocome. (Vis i t rockler .com or cal l 800-279-4441.\

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LARGE POWER-TOOL RECESS Leaving space underneath thecountertops al lowed us to store and protect Mark 's 8" jo inter .The space i s l a rge enough to a l te rna te as a tempora ry home fo rthe tab lesaw as we l l .

Of al l the features shown herc, MarkLea was rnost appreciat ive of his newbench that incorporated a rnitersawstation. " l t was real ly nice to have afu l l - length bench a long the wal l . Butoveral l , I can't tel l you l-row it meant

woodmagaz ine .com

to rne to have an organized shop. AndI've kept it that wav!"

Mark's shop also includes a 2-stageDelta dust col lector on wheels that herloves from machine to rnachine. Markalso has a pancake cotnpressor to run avar ie tv o f na i lers .

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Mark recently moved into a newhorre, with a Zl/z-car detached garagethat serves as his shop. Al l of thebenches and f ixtures shown on thesepages moved to Mark's new space.' l -he

on ly rna ior upgrade in h is newshop is a glearning epoxy f loor.

ItI*-;

IilI

45

Project I: "vERsA-cAB"TOOT.CABINET SYSTEMThis simple cabinet design (Drawing 1)offers the ultimate in versatility; hencethe name. It accommodates multipledrawers, shelves, or vertical dividers-or a mix of all three. Place it verticallyas a base cabinet on the floor, or mountit vertically or horizontally on the wall.Because the dividers lay loosely in theirslots, the layout of each cabinet can bequickly reconfigured to meet changingneeds. The cabinet size makes optimumuse of a sheet of medium-density fiber-board (MDF). The spacing between thedividers proves ideal for medium-sizedrawers and many smaller tools, toolcases, and other items.

Overall, the cabinet measures(when vertical) 15%" deep, 13LA' wide,and 381/+" high. At its most basic, ithas three equal compartments ofll3/+x7I3Ax743/E" . The individua I spaces,with dividers installed, are 33/+" wide.When routing thre V+" wide, 3/a" deep

Assemble the Versa-cab by giuing andfitting the center dividers (C) and the cabinetback (D) into the sides (A). Glue and nai l thedividers and cabinet ends, square thecabinet, and then nai l through the back intothe dividers to stiffen the cabinet.

46

I vrnsn-cAB

t/+" groove a/a" deep3/q" trom back edge

grooves for the cabinet backs anddrawer bottoms. make certain the L/+"hardboard fits somewhat loosely intothe grooves. If the fit is too tight, theremaining lip may split away fromthe MDF. As you assemble the cabinetcarcase and the drawer boxes, gluethe r/+" hardboard into the grooves toprovide extra strength.

We found that once all the parts arecut and routed, and assuming you havea finish nailer, each cabinet, includingthree drawer boxes, can be assembledin about an hour.

1/q" groove 7e" deep 3/q" trom back edge

s/q" rabbel Te" deep

41/2"

81/2"

t/a" dadoesth" deep 121/z'

7+" dadoesTe" deep

s/q" rabbelTa" deep

1/q" groove 7e" deep

A sides 3/+u 153/q" 381/t" MDF 2

top and bottom 3/q" 153/c" "l2yz' MDF 2

center dividers 3/4" 143/+" '121h" MDF 2

D back t/i' 121/2" 371/2" HB

partit ions t/q" '123/ro" 143/l' HB 6drawer frontand back

3/4n 311/.t6" "l1s/e" MDF 2

G* drawer sides 3/l' 311/16" 14" MDF 2

Hx drawer bottoms 1/q' 107/e" 14' HB* Quantity for one drawer.Materials key: MDF-medium-density fiberboard,HB-hardboard.

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Fx

For wall installation, add a horizontal cleat inside the cabinet and to its back, securing it to thesides. Then drive screws through the cleat and back and into the wall studs. To increise theversatility of the partitions, add a dowel for storing circular-saw blades of 10" or less.

3

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#8 x 1t /2" wood

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1-:#8 x 3" F.H.wood screw 6d f inish nai l

END SUPPORT

VERSA-CAB

26va" - |

t21/a"

PLATFORM ASSEMBLY

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As base cabinets support ing the mitersaw workstat ion,the f lexible Versa-cabs accommodate mult iple drawers,shelves, and vertical dividers. The division of spacewithin the cabinets al lows for storage of smallertools and other i tems. The space behind the cabinetsprovides room to run the dust-collector hose out of theway and to the jointer.

Project 2zMITERSAW WORKSTATION

As with most workshops, the mitersawserves as one of the busiest tools inMark's shop, and it needed a permanenthome. Mark needed additional worksurface and storage capacity. These needswere met by installing a mitersaw work-station along the 18' right-hand wall(looking in from the garage doorway).The mitersaw workstation was centeredon the wall to allow maximum cuttinglength to the left or right.

TWo Versa-cabs (Drawing 1) installedas base cabinets support the counter-tops on either side of the mitersaw.Wall cleats (D) were screwed into studs

woodmagazine.com

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Materials List

B frontedging 3/c" 21/au 72" P O 1

C sideedging 3/+u 2Y4' 273/c" PO 2

D wallcleat 3/+u 2Y4' 72" P O l

mitersawplatform

3/+" 261A" 26"

Ft Platform' suppons3/c" 31h" 26Y4' BP 2

to support the outside end of the leftcountertop and the countertop back. Ifyou don't carry the countertop all theway to the corner, build the end sup-port (Drawing 2). Either solution willprovide firm support.

Mark's shop had an uneven and slopedconcrete floor that required a little extraeffort when setting the base cabinets.To solve the problem, the position ofthe base cabinets was located, and thenmeasured up from the highest spot onthe floor. The top of the wall cleat waspositioned 41" from this high spot toallow the Versa-cab base cabinets to fit

G platformedging 3/q" 21/q" 27y2" PO

H* top cleas 1Y2" 2" 153/+" P

l* bottom cleats 1Y2" "l1A^ 153/+" P

J* frontbasetrim 3/+" 1y2" "143/q" P

K* side base trim 3/+" 11h" 153/q" P

end supportcrossrails

M outerlegs 3/c" 3Y2" 41'

N long leg fillers 3/q" 3Y2' 30'

O short leg fillers 3/+' 31h" 4"* Quantity for one cabinet.

I3y4-4', depending on mitersaw table height,

Materials key: BP-birch plywood, P-pine, P0-poplar.

underneath the countertop (Drawing 2).Next, a 4S"-long level line was drawnfrom this mark. We lengthened the levelline across the entire wall with a chalkline, and used the mark to install thewall cleats. Because of this floor varia-tion, the height of the end supports wasadiusted until level with the line.

3/c" 31/2" 26'

4 7

4"

With the countertops installed butnot attached to the base cabinets, thebase cabinets were positioned andleveled to maintain 2712" between thesides of the cabinets. This spacing lefta 3/+" gap between the side of the basecabinet and the countertop side edging(C). The gap left space to maneuver themitersaw platform supports (F) intothe correct position. We then attachedthe countertops to the base cabinetsthrough the top cleats (H).

We placed a long straightedge acrossboth countertops to act as a guidewhile leveling and plumbing the basecabinets. For Mark's shop, one of thebottom cleats (I) was shaved, and weadded cedar shims where needed toeven up cabinets. Nails were driventhrough the cabinet bottom to holdthe shims and cleats in place. We se-cured the bottom of the cabinets to thefloor by applying concrete-compatiblesilicone to the trim parts (J, K) beforenailing them in place. The end result:a perfectly level countertop.

To align the top surface of the mitersawwith the countertop, we used a combinationsquare and measured down from Mark'smitersaw table. We then trimmed thewidth of the platform supports (F) tothat measurement, less 7+", to provideadjustability for the platform positioningwithout sacrificing strength.

Set the depth of the front of the mitersawplatform first by sliding the platform supports(F) behind the countertop edging (C). Clampthe platform supports to the neighboringcabinet sides. Set the depth of the platform'sback, and screw it in place at that location.Return to the front, recheck the depth, andfinish screwing the platform in place. Add themitersaw, and recheck the height.

p snerr-GooDs RAcK

6" straphinge3Aa x 11/z ' F.H.

bolts and nuts.

The lower (containment) stretcher (B) ofthe sheet-goods rack is held in place by a 6"strap hinge bolted to the rack's side and ahook and eye at the other end.

Project 3: sHEEr-GooDsRACKEvery shop needs a place to store sheetgoods, including sheet-good scraps.Mark's shop is no exception. However,the limited ceiling height (7' 9") ofMark's garage shop required some spe-cial considerations. To meet that need,'we built a rack for horizontal storagewith enough space inside for 97"-longsheets of MDF (Drawing 3).

Because the wall-mounted Versa-Cababove the rack prevents placing fullsheets in the holder by lifting themover the lower containment stretcher,

48

R=3"71/a"

Door hook and eye screw

Ss/a' 314

we designed a "swing-out" contain-ment stretcher (B) that improves theaccessibility of the rack.

The trough at the bottom of therack contains the materials in a de-fined and generous space. The rearstretcher at the top allows you to firmlymount the rack to wall studs. For addedversatility, we also mounted two short

#8 x 3" F.H. wood screwscentered over wall studs (

#12 x s/e"F.H. screw

sides 3/l'

B stretchers 3/c" 31h" 99"

C bottom 3/q" 53/q" 97Y2" P

Materialkey: P-pine.

sections of heavy-duty cardboardcarpet tubing (shown in the photo onpage 44 and at left) to the side for contain-ing dowels and other thin-strip material.

48'

#8 x 1t/2" F


Two wall cabinets were mounted 18" abovethe countertop beside the mitersaw work-station. The 18" space between the cabinetsal lows them to support adjustable shelvingfor added storage.

Wal ls tud

#8 x 3" F.H.wood screws

Proicct 4: wnll cABlNErMost shops require at least somedegree of protected storage where dustcan't enter. This wall cabinet meets thatneed simply, affordably, and quickly.

Cut the parts shown in Drawing4tosize. If you're making a pair of cabinetsthat support shelving in between, firstdetermine which cabinet sides willsupport the shelving. On these sides,drill the holes for the shelf pins allthe way through, where shown. This

s106106

80

s/q" rabbet 7e" deep1/q" groove3/8" deep3/q" from

back edge

Roller-catch strike

Rollercatches

Shelf pin

223/e"1/q" grooves/e" deep3/q" trom

back edge

Full-overlay hinge

231/q'

sides

B top and bottom 3/+" '12" 23y4" MDF 2

C back th" 231/a" 291h" HB

D doors 3/4" 1115/$tt 30" MDF 2

E* shelves 3/+' 101/+" 223/e" MDF 2

F* shelf edging 3/q" 1y2" 223/a" PO 2

G wa l l c lea t 3/c" 4" 221h" PO 1- Optional shelf and shelf edging quantity, depending on need.W*a MDF-med ium-density f iberboard,HB-hardboard, P0-poplar.

way, the holes can house a shelf pin oneither side. Next, drill /t" holes 7s" deepon the interior faces of the opposingcabinet sides.

Assemble the cabinet carcase anddry-fit th'e Y+" back in place to ensurethat it's not so tight as to risk splittingoff the lip behind. Then, glue the 7e"backing into the /e" grooves, and glueand nail the sides, top, and bottomtogether. To ease assembly and hang-ing, align and predrill the hinge holesfor the doors, but don't mount thedoors until after hanging the cabinet.Install the cleat on the cabinet by usingglue and nailing into the ends of thecleat and into the cabinet sides.

Using 3" deck screws, we installed thecabinets to wall studs, where shown,checking for level. Il

Written by Mike SatterwhlteProfect designs: Kevin Boylell lustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna fohnsonPhotographs: Richard McNamee

@ wnu cABINET

Roller-catchstrike

/e" round-over alongoutside edges

30"

IIl

12"

Where the money wentAll in all, the workover at Mark's workshop was limited to a budget of 51,000,making the changes affordable. There was even cash left over. Here's what had tobe purchased to put things in order:

Bandsaw mobile base

Jointer mobile base

Tablesaw mobile base

32" medium-density f iberboard (MDF) (5 sheets)

7+" hardboard (4 sheets)

3/q" birch plywood (3 sheets)

7+" poplar and pine

Triton lumber rack

Assorted hardware

142

47

108

76

82

84

TOTAL

woodmagazine.com

Ssgt

49

50

cheap as dirt, solid as a rockBest-Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

Corner or straight bench:itt your choiceThis article shows you how to make the corner bench shownopposite.lf you prefer a straight bench (shown atleft),follow thesame instructions, but make two right bases (A), two ends (C), andthe long top (D). 0mit the biscuit slots in (D). Use the cutouts fromthe right bases (A) to make two long base shelves (F). Fit yourstraight bench with optional shelves at each end by making the longand short cleats (H, l) and the long and short shelves (J, K)from theextra particleboard.

For the items needed to build this project, seethe Materials List and Cutting Diagram on poge 55.

Cut out the bench parts! femporarily fasten 4-tong 2x4I extensions to a pair of sawhorses,

and lay a sheet of 3/+" particleboardacross them. The extensions wil lsupport both the workbench partsand the cutoffs as you work. Referringto the Materials List, mark the widthof the right base (A) on the sheet.

! Measure the distance from the-right edge of your circular saw'sshoe to the right side of the blade.Lay a second sheet of particleboardontothe first, offsetting it from the Amarked width on Part A by thedistance you measured on yourcircular saw. Clamp the second sheetto the first, and cut part A to width.

With the slot template (painted green forc lar i ty in th is photo) guid ing the f lush-t r imbit's pilot bearing, rout the slot in the end (C).

woodmagazlne.com

I Using the cutoff from the first partJ A as a straightedge, clamp it to theother sheets (Photo A), offsetting it yourmeasured distance from the Darts'dimensions. Cut the rest of the puttt A,B, C, D, and E to size.

Afuy out the end and center cutouts'lon the right bases (A) and left bases(B) (Drawing 1). Drill blade-start holesand jigsaw the cutouts, or see the ShopTip on page 55 for making inside cutswith your circular saw.(frue up one edge of the four basedcenter cutouts. Cut the upper andlower long base shelves (F) out of thecutouts from the right bases (A), and theupper and lower short base shelves (G)out of the cutouts from the left bases (B)(Drawing 1).

Form interlocking slotsI Vat<e the slot template (Drawing t)I from leftover particleboard. To cut

the slot as accurately as possible, use aiigsaw and straightedge. Mark the out-side corner, where shown.

f Retrieve one of the ends (C), andSclamp the template to it, aligningthe template's marked corner withone of the part's corners. Chuck a 72"flush-trim bit into your handheldrouter, and rout the l%o"-wide slot(Photo B). In the same manner, routthe other three slots (Drawing 1), flip-ping the template as needed.

I Using the slotted end (C) as a tem-rJplate, clamp it in turn to the otherpart C and the two left bases (B), androut the slots into those parts, wheredimensioned (Drawing 1).

Using the edge of a second sheet to guide yoursaw, cut the first part A to width. Save the cutoffas a straightedge for cutting the other parts.

Rout, drill, slot,finish, and assemble! Chuck a le' round-over bit intoI your handheld router, and rout all

edges of parts A, B, C, R and G. On thelong top (D) and short top (E), rout allthe edges except where the two topsbutt together, where indicated (Draw-ings 1 and 2).

fnriU S/sz" countersunk shank holesSinto parts D, E, R and G (Drawing 1).

I nOlust your biscuit cutter to centerJ a slot in the thickness of the par-ticleboard. Plunge mating slots intoparts D and E, where shown. To keepthe tops aligned, insert #20 biscuitswithout glue into the slots.

Al" protect the bench fromTmoisture and grime, apply twocoats of finish to all the parts beforeassembly. Apply a third coat to the top

5 1

Note: Al ledges havet/e" round-overs, exceptwhere indicated onparts @ and @.

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oEND

(2 needed)

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StsAa' )"/'tu" tglr6'.

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oLONG BASE SHELF

(2 needed)

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shank hole, countersunk i\ 1.-t\ l l l

@SHORT BASE SHELF

(2 needed)

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25"

L 37/e"

96

96"5/32

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25',

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37/a"

37/8'

No round-over on this endI

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8"

8"

8"

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26',

IIL6"

38"

*lrt 8" | 8" | 8" l{15,:-l No round-over for 30"1j

13/.16" 51s/ra"-]t t r-f

I24',

l_-+1 10" F-

SLOT TEMPLATE

Best-Ever llome Shop ldeas 200952

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No round-overs

flexeloDED vrEW

#8x2" F.H. wood screws*==_

^r/s"round-overs

%------lleooes

#8 x 11/2" F.H.wood screw

7 t/a" round-oversalong al ledges

23Y4'

#8 x 11/q ' F.H.wood screw

after assembly. To keep the cost down, /ou can use any house paint orfinish. (We used satin polyurethane.)(Witfr the finish dry, enlist a helper and assemble the bench (Draw-J ing 2) and in the four photos on page 54. Take care in handling thebases (A, B).The 6"-wide "rails" are somewhat fragile until the bases areinterlocked and supported by the ends (C) and shelves (R G). Using thepreviously drilled shank holes in parts D, E, R and'G as guides, drillpilot holes into their mating parts, and drive in the screws.

Add the optional shelvesI fo add shetves to the ends of your workbench (Drawing 2 and PhotoI C), cut the long and short cleats (H, I) and shelves (J, K) to size.

lnout ya" round-overs onto the front edges of the shelves. DrilI s/zz"

lcountersunk shank holes through the cleats. Locate the holes L" infrom both ends of each cleat, then evenly space two more holes betweenthose. Apply two coats of finish to the shelves and cleats.

I Using the shank holes in the cleats as guides, drilt pilot holes intorf the bases (A, B), and screw the cleats in place. Position the longcleats so the long shelves are flush with the bottom of the bases' endcutouts. Position the short cleats to accommodate the height of theitems you plan to store. You may want to make more than one shortshelf for each end. Lay the long shelves onto the long cleats. Drill pilotand countersunk shank holes, and screw the long shelves to their cleats.Lay the short shelves into place. Jl

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#8 x 2" F.H.wood screws

/e" round-overs along all edges

t/e" round-overs on front edges only

4-#20 biscuits fortiign;erii

- countersunk(Do not glue.)

After assembly, install optional shelves tofurther expand storage space.

5 3

Inter lock the s lots in the lef t bases (B) wi th the r ight bases (A). Inter lock the s lots in the ends (C) wi th the bases. Add the lower baseshelves (F, G).

Dr i l l p i l o t ho les , and sc rew the upper base she lves (F , G)in p lace .

Posi t ion the long and short tops (D, E). Dr i l l p i lot holes, and screwthem in p lace .

faMeet the designersChad Veach, far left, a professional engineer, andCarneron Campbell, an architect teaching at IowaState University, collaborated on this entry for BestOriginal Workbench Design in WOOD@ magazine'sGreat American Workshops Contest.

By replacing legs with interlocking panels, theirdesign elirninated the problem of making rigidconnections between the benchtop and legs. Inthe corner configuration, each section reinforcesthe other, which increases workbench stabil ity.Chad and Carneron also included a continuousoverhanging edge for clamping and shelves deepenough to store large tools or shop materials.

Using only a circular saw, dri l l , and j igsaw (altern-ative to a router), they built the original bench inhalf a day.

,ffiffiruff

54

T*

d


1

Cutting Diagram

@ @

s/q x 48 x 96" Particleboard (2 needed)

Making inside cutswith a circular sawTo get arrow-straight edges whenmaking inside cuts, l ike the ones neededto remove the cutouts in the workbenchbases, use your circular sary a straight-edge, and a technique cal led plunge-cutting. Here's how.

Measure the offset from the edgeof your circular saw's shoe to the sideof the blade. Clamp a straightedge tothe part, offsetting it that distance fromthe cutout's layout l ine. With the saw'sdepth adjustment loose, raise the bladeabove the part's surface. Starting at oneinside corner, hold the shoe againstthe straightedge, and swivel the bladeguard out of the way. Switch on the

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saw, and lower the blade through thepart, as shown in the photo above.

Keeping the saw's shoe against thestraightedge, continue your cut, stoppingat the next corner's intersecting layoutline. Repeat with the other three sides ofthe cutout. Finish the cuts at the cornerswith a handsaw.

A right bases

B left bases 3/qu 38"

C ends

D long top

E short top

F lonq base shelves 3/i' 25' 477/e"

G short base shelves 3/+' 25" 417/e" P

H long cleats Tc' 11/ z" 231/ +' P

I short cleats 3/qu 11/2" 161/2" P

J long shelves 3/+' 161/z' 23t/i' P

K short shelves 3/q' 161/z' 161/2" P

Material keyl P-particleboard.

5upplies: #8x1%" flathead wood screws, #8x1h" flatheadwood screws, #8x2'flathead wood screws, #20 biscuits.

Bits: %" flush-trim, %" round-over router bits.

3/+u

3/qu

30"3/q'

66','/4

5 5

s/q x 48 x 96" Particleboard (2 needed) 3/+ x 48 x 96" Particleboard

s/q x 48 x 96" Particleboard

3/+ x 48 x 96" Particleboard

Materials List

^il::l}ffi?:Tb0l

CarouselWe packed all these tools and bits-l35 pieces total-into

an instant-access storage unit that takes up just 2x2'of wallspace. Think of how it will help organize your shop!

Rlecects Editor

Ftr#-*fr**E b { & . ! tE-odb_-\" & t ft:,$:-*,WLt-rqil

g E 1117 - {h-* --rd+}Fa*' { s|}

. a,-' r&*ffifr

fl *+\; t1;' tTt'vtl i'f'T!11111\ffi

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t - b--?-t I

{orHff' l

# l d/ # t d $ $ # d,Jg g s t $ }uu 1

4 - l *

q * d ' t f l

, dts ,/l-i

Spin the entire carousel to access eachof i ts six tool-holding wings .. .

... and rotate each wing to access bothof i ts sides and the center column.


181/2"

63/q 7sz" shank hole, countersunkon,top of @ and bottom of@

Locatibn of parts@

flroe AND BorroM

7se" shank hole inparts@and @,redril l tzlo+" holein part @

For the items neededto build this project,see the Materials Listand Cutting Diagramon poges 58 ond 59.

rfhis handy shop helper is the brainchild of reader

I Jim Maw of Kleinburg, Ontario. His ingeniousI design earned the prize for WOODo magazine's

"Best Storage Solution or Organizer for Power ToolAccessories" in our Great American Workshops Contest.We liked Jim's organizer so much that we obtained thedesign rights from him, then built one ourselves so wecan present the plans here.

Start with the carouselI fo make the top (A) and bottom (B), stick together twoI Yzx76x787z" pieces of plywood with double-faced tape.

Mark the top one "A" and the bottom one "B." Referring toDrawing 1,lay out the hexagonal shape and location of theholes on the top (A). Bandsaw close to the line, then sandthe top and bottom to shape.

lOritt the six 7rz" holes around the perimeter, and thejfour 7sz" holes around the center through both parts.Countersink the center holes on the top surface of part Aand the bottom surface of part B. Drill the 1" hole at thecenter. Make indexing marks across one edge of the joinedparts for later reference. Separate the parts. Enlarge theperimeter holes in the bottom (B) to tzk+".

Q Cut the core sides (C) to the size given on the Ma-rJ terials List. Glue and clamp the core together in theconfiguration shown on Drawing 2. Make sure the ends areflush. Drill pilot and countersunk shank holes whereshown, and drive in the screws. Remove the clamps.

Ato position the core between the top (A) and bottom"l1f;, cut two 3/tx5lzx73Vz" spacers. Make the spacersfrom poplar. [You can rip them later to 5" wide for thebrackets (G).1 Clamp the core between the top and bottom(Photo A). Using the countersunk shank holes in the topand bottom as guides, drill pilot holes into the ends of thecore, and drive in the screws.

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I cnnousEl

l1 6 "

l

s/ez" shank hole.*'fr*"'\ I

#8 x 11/z ' F.H.wood screw


7/a+" pilol1 " deep

IF1il.'Tiltlll_u

t/aq" pilol hole, centered

t/q" holeg/a" deepcenteredon part @

t/q" dowelz/a" long

1/q" flal washer

ri 7ez" shank hole,countersunk onbottom face

With the indexingmarks on the top (A)and bottom (B) facingupward, use spacersto position the coreparal lelto two sides.Measure in from thepoints, centeringthe core.

- #8 x 11/q ' R.H.

l- T:o screw

fi,iJ.',1;,,j;'-l

5 7

#B x3/q" F.H. wood screw ---\

Tsz" shank hole, countersunk=- i'1#:A6rR

Attach an aux i l ia ryextension to yourmi ter gauge, c lampon a stopblock, andcut the notches intothe back (F), makingseveral passes.

7sz" shank hole,countersunk

#B x 2 " F .H .wooo screw

YAdd rotating panelsI from 7+" tempered hardboard, cut the six panels (D) toI the size l isted.

)Cut the panel cleats (E) to the size l isted. Mark,tbandsaw,and sand the r/2" radrr on their ends (Drawing 2).For the six upper cleats, dtlll 7/o+" holes, centered on thelength and the 72" thickness, where shown. For the six lowercleats, drill centeredT/q" holes 7a" deep. Cut six Vl" dowelsT/s"long, and glue them into the holes in the lower cleats.

QCtue and clamp the cleats (E) to the panels (D), whererJshown. Set the panels aside.

Make the wall bracketI Laminate two .t/+x51/qx22r/2" board.s for the back (F).I With the glue dry, joint one edge and rip and crosscut it

to size. Install a 3/+" dado blade in your tablesaw, and formthe notches for the brackets (G), where dimensioned onDrawing 3, as shown in Photo B.

fRetrieve the boards used earlier for spacers, and cut theSbrackets (G) to the size l isted. Mark the angled cuts,where dimensioned on Drawing 3. Bandsaw, and sand to thepenci led l ines.

QCut the lower arm (H) and upper arm (l) to size. Using aJForstner bit, drill the 1" hole 1/2" deep into the lower arm,and the 1" hole in the upper arm (Drawing 3). The holes arecentered on the widths of parts H and L

lllCtue and clamp the brackets (G) to the back (F). Drill'Tpilot and countersunk shank holes, and drive in thescrews. Remove the clamps. In similar fashion, glue, clamp,and screw into place the lower arm (H) and upper arm (l) .

Finish and mountthe carousel! Sand all the parts to 220 grit, easingI the edges with a sanding block. Apply

the finish of your choice. We brushed ontwo coats of satin polyurethane, sandinglightly with Z2O-grit sandpaper betweencoats. You can also prime and paint tomatch existing cabinetry.

) Cut tw o r/+x3r/+x37/+" h a rdboa rd bla n ksjfor the washers (J).Mark their centers,and draw 3"-diameter circles. Dril l cen-tered 1" holes, and bandsaw the washersto shape.

QCut the cover plate (K) to size. Dril lrJcountersunk shank holes at the fourcorners (Drawing 3).

58

Cutting Diagram

t/z x 24 x 48" Birch plywood

@ [@ @ @ @3/qx51/z x 96" Poplar

jtl+" lag screi 3%" long

p exeloDED vrEW

21/zu

1" hole 1/2" deeo

#8 x 11/2" F.H.wooo screw

7/aq" pilol hole 7+" deep

)

\41/a" tlat

washer

BI

-*-*b

z/J+'pilot ire (s/q" deee )

#8 x 1 1/z' F.H. wood screwsAz" shank hole,

countersunk

'- t loa" p i lot hole i

1/q x 24 x 48" Hardboard

3/q x 51/z x 96" Poolar

Best-Ever Home Shoo ldeas 2009

lwitn the finish dry, drill 7+" holes'tthrough the wall-bracket back (F).Transfer these locations to the wall at astud location. Drill pilot holes into thestud. Now, fasten the wall bracket withV+" Iag screws 3lz" Iong.(Cut a 773/+"-long piece of 1" dowel.JPlace the carousel between the upperand lower arms. Slide the washers (J) intoplace between the carousel and the arms.Drop the dowel in from the top, seating itinto the hole in the lower arm (H). Centerthe cover plate (K) over the upper arm'sdowel hole. Using the shank holes in thecover plate as guides, drill pilot holes,and drive in the screws.

1lArcange your tools on the panels,lfand make the holders. For themounting methods we used, see thesidebar, right.

JWittr the holders now attached toJ the panels, slip washers over thebottom cleats' 7+" dowels, and tip thepanels into place, seating the bottomcleat dowels into the holes in the carou-sel's bottom (B). Slide a #8 flat washerbetween the top cleat and the carouseltop (A), where shown on Drawing 2.Secure the panels to the top (A) with flatwashers and roundhead screws. Attachthe tools and bits. .l

Written by f an Svec with Chuck HedlundProject design: f im Maw; Kevin Boylell lustrations: Roxanne LeMolne; Lorna fohnson

Materials List

B bottom l/^t 16" 181/2"

C core sides 3/4' 41/q" 15"

D panels 1/q' 71/c' 147/d,

E panel cleats 1 / l l

f2 vi' 7y4'

F* back 11/2' 5u 221/c' LP

G brackets 5u 131h"

H lower arm 5u 13Y2"

I upper arm 3An J t f

J* washers Y4' 3" diam,

K cover plate Y4' 3" 3u

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materlals key: BP-birch plywood, P-poplar, H-temperedhardboard, LP-laminated poplar.

Supplies: #8x7i'flathead wood screws (4), #8x1%" flatheadwood screws (32), #8x2" flathead wood screws (3), #8x'17c"roundhead wood screws (6), #8 flat washers (i2), '/i'flat

washers (6),1/t" lagscrews 3%" long (2),7a" dowel, 1" dowel.

Blades and bits: Stack dado set, 1" Forstner bit.

SourceTool Holders: Look for spring-clip tool holders and mag-netic tool holders at your local hardware store, home center,or woodworking specialty store.

woodmagazlne.com

ow many of the hundred-plussmall items that clog thedrawers in your shop can you

fit onto your carousel? To plan thearrangement of your tools and bits,place the panels (D/E) on your work-bench, and position the items, asshown in Photo C. You can store itemson both sides of each panel, and alsoon the core.

Note: For the panels to rotate, theremust be clearance between each paneland the core. No bit, tool, or tool holdermay protrude beyond an imaginary 8'-diameter cylindeq centered on the pqnel.Items stored on the core must not inter-fere with the panels' rotation.

For tools that can hang from pegs,mark the locations, and drill holesthrough the panels. Insert machinescrews, and thread on nuts, as shownon Drawing 4.

For drill bits and other tools that fitinto round holes, measure the bit ortool center-to-center distances, andtransfer these dimensions to blocks ofwood. Drill holes slightly larger thanthe bit-shank or tool diameters.Clamp the holders to the panels. Drillpilot and countersunk shank holesfrom the opposite side, and drive inscrews. (We didn't glue the holders inplace, just in case we ever need torearrange our panel layout.)

Arrange on the panels the bits or toolsyou wish to store in the carousel. Leaveenough clearance between items to allowfor easy handling.

After fastening spring-clip tool holdersto the panelwith machine screws andnuts, snap the tools into place.

To avoid having to make intricateholders for small or odd-shaped parts,mount a magnetic tool holder with amachine screw and nut.

If some of your tools have theirown small cases or holders, you maywish to mount them to panels. Topermanently attach the case, drillholes through it and the panel, andfasten with machine screws and nuts.For removable attachment, adhereVelcro tape to the case and panel.Other easy mounting methods are touse spring clips, as shown in Photo D,and magnetic tool holders, as shownin Photo E. li

Adding your tools and bits

12

59

60

Isrus3" rabbets/q" deep

3/ro" grooves/e" deep3/q" tfomoutside

face

I

I Overall dimensions:Tool cabinet,273/+u wide x 253/te" deepx 852e" high.Tool base, 2"17/s" wide x 2213/te" deepx 367h" high.

I Inexpensive materials are easy on thewallet. One-stop shopping for mostparts and simple construction makethis a great weekend profect.

I Benchtop tools bolt to trays that fitover the top of the tool base. Forstorage, lift the tool and tray off thebase, and slide them into the cabinet.

I Roll the cabinets out to work, away forstorage. Dual-locking casters provideboth mobility and stability. See Sourceon page 64.

Skil l BuilderI Make a simple jig to cut rabbets for

half-lap joints in multiple oversize partsat once.

Make the case sidesI Setect straight 2x4s with as fewI knots as possible for the tool-cabinet

stiles (A), rails (B), and stretchers (C),and the tool-base stiles (M), rails (N),and stretchers (O). Clean up the 2x4faces with a random-orbit sander. Then,rip and ioint both edges to the 3" fin-ished width. NoW cut the parts to thefinished lengths (Materials Ltst, page 64).

afuy out the stiles (A, M), rails 18, N;,Sand stretchers (C, O) in the arrange-ments shown (Drawings 2 and 3). Thenmark the locations of the rabbets,notches, and grooves (Drawings 1, 2, 2a,and 3). Cut the rabbets and notches. Setthe stretchers aside. Now, making twopasses over the tablesaw blade, cut 3/ra"grooves 7a" deep in the stiles and rails forthe panels (D, P).Note: We used %c" perforated hardboard forthe panels (D, P). For /e" perforated hard-board, cut the grooves in one pass with adado blade.

I Cut the panels (D, P) to size. Dry-J assemble the sides (A/B/D and M/N/P) to check the fit. Make any necessaryadiustments. Then, glue and clamp thesides with the smooth face of the panelsfacing out. Check the sides for square.To speed the side glue-up process, seethe Shop Tip at rtght.fWitn the sides assembled, drill y+"

Tholes through the tool-cabinetstiles (A), and /r" holes 7a" deep in theinside faces of the tool-base stiles (M)(Drawings 1,2, and 3, Photo A). The photoshows drilling the holes into the tool-cabinet stiles.

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Mark hole locations on masking tape applied toa perforated hardboard strip. Using the strip asa guide, dri l l the holes into the st i les (A).

let wood screwsdo the clamplngHere's a way to cut down on theclamping t ime and number . ofclamps needed to glue up the sides(AlBlD and M/N/P). Af ter c lampingup the first side and checking forsquare, drill a screw hole centeredin each half-lap joint. Then, drivescrews, as shown at right, removethe clamps, and set the assemblyaside. NoW your clamps and benchspace are free for assembling thenext side.

3" F--TOOL-CABINET STILE

(Left front inside face shown)

3" rabbets/+" deep

t/+" holess/a" deep,centered

3/ro" groove3/8" deep3/a" trom

outside face

TOOL-BASE STILE(Left front inside face shown)

@,@

61

Countersunkshank hole -

2t/q" rabbetsz/q" deep

1/e"

round-over

#8 x 11/z' F.H./ wood screw

t./I

1tl2" rabbets3/4" deep

wood screw 2t/q" rabbels 7+" deep

Assemble the cases 3/+ x 3" notch

I Retrieve the stretchers (C) and tool-I base stretchers (O). Using right-angle

braces to align the stretchers,glue and screw them to one side (A/B/Dand M/N/P) (Drawings 2 and 3). (Todbwnload a free plan for a right-angle

#8x3/c" F.H. wood screw--1b-

I

3/ro" grooves7e" deeP 3/+" trom

outside face

brace, see wocldmagazine.cr>rn/brace.)Then with the four cabinet stretchersattached to the first side, add the secondside (Photo B), and glue and screw it inplace. The photo shows adding thesecond side to the tool cabinet.

lCut the tops (E, Q) to size, and rout3le' round-overs along the edges(Drawings 2 and 3). Then, clamp the topsto the cases, drill screw holes, and drivethe screws. Align the tool-cabinet top (E)flush with the back stretcher (C), centeredside-to-side and overhanging the frontstretcher. Align the tool-base top (a)flush with the case all around.

Q Cut the bottoms (F, R) to size. [MakerJthe necessary adjustment for Ve" per-forated hardboard panels (D, P).1 Drawthe corner notches (Drawings 2 and 3),and cut them out (Photos C and D). Routround-overs, where shown. Apply glue tothe top edges of the lower stretchers (C,O), and clamp the bottoms in place. Drillscrew holes, and drive the screws.

Afuy the cases facedown. Cut the casterTblocks (G, S) to size, and glue andclamp them in place (Drawings 2 and 3).(Cut the backs (H, T) to size. Centerrrthe backs side-to-side on the cases,and clamp them in place. Then, drillscrew holes and drive the screws.

Add trays, shelf, and doorI for the tool cabinet, cut the trayI panels (I) to size, and for the tool

base, cut the shelf panel (U) to size. Then,cut the short edging (J), long edging (K),

With the stretchers (C) attached to the first side(AlBlDl, apply glue to the stretcher rabbets,and position the second side.

62

@,@ square ETo make the long cuts, adhere sandpaper to aspeed square to keep it from slipping. Then useit to guide your portable circular saw.

@,@Handsaw

Long cut madewith a portablecircular saw

After making the long cuts with a portablecircular saw, finish cutting the notches with afine-tooth handsaw.

t,&tt-*.*-/

E

3/ro" grooves 7e" deep3/+" ffom outside face

Best-Ever Home Shop ldeas 2OO9

-!...1I

2lq" rabbet

-1

#8 x 1 1/z' F.H. wood screw --\t

t/e" round-over

ftrool-BAsE cAsE

1/2" rabbets 7+" deep

<-#8 x 2" F.H. wood screw

#8 x3/c" F.H. wood screw

\

3/ro" groovess/a" deep 3/+" tlom

outside face

the hinges and handle (Drawing 5). Now,lay the tool base on its back, and fastenthe door to the case (Photo E).

Apply finish and assembleI Remove the door from the tool base,I and the hinges and handle from the

door. Remove the casters from both cases.Examine all the parts and assemblies,and finish-sand where needed. Then.

s/ro" hole, centered

s/+" deep

2/c" rabbels/q" deep

@roor cABTNET AssEMBLY

217/a".s_______-_

ka----

/ tt)3" rabbets/+" deep

x 3" notch

3 1 "

III

)-3/q

!flrnnv suPPoRrs

and shelf edging (V) to size. (We rippedthese parts from the edge of 2x stock.You also can cut them from %"-thickstock.) First, glue and clamp the shortedging to the trays, flush at the top andends, and then add the long edgingfDrawing ). Now, glue and clamp theshelf edging to the shelf panel (Drawing5). Rout ys" round-overs along the topedges of the trays and shelf, and finish-sand them.

?ntp 3/+"-wide strips from a 2x4, and.

Scut the tray supports (L) to size.Then, drill a %0" hole at each end (Draw-ing 4a). Finish-sand the supports.

2 my the tool-cabinet and tool-baserJcases on their backs. Then, positionthe caster plates Yq" from the case edges,and using the holes in the plates asguides, drill screw holes. NoW screw thecasters in place.

fCut the tool base door (W) to size,Tand rout %" round-overs along thefront edges. Then, drill holes and attach

woodmagazine.com

r't/q" carriage bolt 2r/2" long --"

t *l*asher


t/+" wing nut

Rehang the door. Now insert shelf sup-ports into the tool-base-stile (M) holes,and install the shelf (U/V).

! ltace each benchtop tool on a tray,.Jgenerally centered side-to-side, andas close to the front edge as the toolallows. Then, using the bolt holes in thetool as guides, mark the hole locationson the tray. Remove the tool and drillthe holes, countersinking them on thebottom face of the tray. Fasten the toolwith flathead bolts, washers, and nuts.

/ Position the tray supports (L) in the'ftool cabinet, spaced vertically asneeded, and fasten them with carriagebolts, washers, and wing nuts (Drawing4). NoW slide the trays, with toolsattached, onto the supports. I

Written by fan Svec with f eff MertzProject design: Kevln Boylell lustrations: Roxanne LeMolne; Lorna fohnson

stiles

B rails '11/z' 3' 221/z' P

C stretchers 11h' 3u 27',

D panels 3hc' 183/+ 743/i' PH 2

E top 3/i' 25' 273/q' MDF 1

F bottom 3/d' 24' 251/e^ MDF 1

G caster block 11/z' 3u

H back 3AC' 261/z' 80'

I tray panels 3/l' 221/q' 22W' MDF 4

J short edging 3/i' 11/2. 221A' P

K long edging 3/i, 11/z' 233/4' P

tray supports 3/i'

stiles 1t/l' 3u 31"

N rails 11/z' 3u 203/e" P

0 stretchers 11h" 3" 217/a"

P panels 3/ti, 16s/a" 253/c, PH 2

O top 3/cn 217/s" 21t/e' MDF 1

R bottom 3/l' 20" 217/s' MDF 1

5 casterblocks 11/2" 3u 4',

T back 3 / i ' 213 /s " 31 "

U shelf panel 3/i' 183/c" 195/s' MDF 1

V shelf edging 3/l' 1t/2" 193/i'

W door 3/i' 193/c" 253/s" MDF 1

Materials key: P-pine, PH-perforated hardboard, MDF-medium-density fiberboard, H-tempered hardboard.

Suppf ies : #8x3/i', #8x1V2", #8x2" f lathead wood screws; #1 2x1 "panhead screws (32); 7l''wing nuts (12); %" flat washers (12);t/rx2l/t' carriage bohs (12); self-closing overlay hinges (2);3" wirehandle;%" shelf supports (4).

Bits: 7a" round-over router bit. %" and %C'drill bits.

SourceCasters: 4" dual-lockng swivel plate casters no.36992,510.49ea. Hartville Tool. Call 800-345-2396, or go to hartvilletool.com.

e /qx48x48"Medium-density f iberboard


11/z'

Position the door 27/a" lrom the stretcher (O)bottom edge and centered side-to-side. Screwthe hinges to the sti le (M).

ease any sharp edges with a sandingblock. Now apply a clear finish. (Weapplied two coats of Minwax AntiqueOil Finish, sanding lightly with 220-gritsandpaper between coats.)

lneinstall the casters and the hard-3ware on the tool-base door (W).

Tray from tool cabinet

Broor BAsE AssEMBLYSelf-closing overlay hinge

t/e" round-over along outside edges

11/2"

3" wire handle -----[

,,j "fl18%"-

J r/a" round-over

#8x2" F.H. wood screwJ

#12 x 1" panhead screw- r/

Materials List

11/zx3Vz x 120" Pine (2x4x10') (4 needed)

1/zx3t/z x 120" Pine (2x4x10') (4 needed)

Pine (2x4x8') (2 needed)sAa x 48 x 96" Hardboard

s/ta x 48 x 96" Perforated hardboard

64

3/q x 48 x 96" Medium-density fiberboard

RollingWorkshop Storage

a aJ J

Arhis unit was designed and built

I to bring order out of the chaos

I in my workshop," explainedreader Bernard Monneau of Calgary,Alberta, in his letter to us. We liked hisidea of mixing plastic tubs and shelvesso much, we built one for the WOOD@magazine shop, and invite you to con-struct one for your work area as well.

The design revolves around plasticstorage tubs of the type sold in homecenters and large discount stores. Ourunit houses Rubbermaid RoughneckStorage Tote 3-gallon/11.3-liter contaih-ers. Adjust the project dimensions accor-dingly if you use a different-size tub.

The entire workshop project, minusthe optional shelves and cleats, is builtout of two sheets of MDF G/q" birch

plywood would also work well). Seethe Cutting Diagram below right for opti-mal sheet-goods usage.

To build the project, cut the parts tothe sizes noted in the drawing below.Rout a 7e" round-over along the oneexposed edge of each lr/zxlr/2" cleatand along the top edge of each 3/tx3/+"

cleat, where shown. (The round-overson the interior cleat allow the tubsto slide easier.) Then, drill the counter-sunk mounting holes through all parts,where noted. Glue and screw the twodividers between the two sides. Next,attach the top, bottom, center partitions,and cleats. Mount the interior supportcleats, allowing just an inch or twoof clearance, top to bottom, betweencontainers. Attach the casters. ||

, ..-*F

*

\

*Dimension

wil l dependupon the sizeof your tubs.

CENTERPARTITIONS

*261/+".

4" fixed caster

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#8x2" F.H. wood screw1Vzx11 /2x323 /a "

cleat

t/e" round-over

#8 x 2" F.H.wood screw

#B x 2" F.H.wood screw

11/2x11 /2x323 /a "cleat

I1 6 "

.l

\\"

" I b- - - -

\-zt-T-1/ I71/a" l l I

l l l l

+4/ irrh' l l I

rJ/ I3 / q x 3 / q x 1 6 "

support cleats(48 needed)

t/e" round-overs

#8 x 11/+' F.H.wood screw

As an option, usel0Vzxl6" shelves inplace of some orall of the tubs.

CuttinqDiagrafrr

e/+ x 49 x 97" Medium-density fiberboard

outside creats (MDF) (2 needed)

. - * . r

1 t /zx3t /2x72" P ine (4 bd. f t . )lnside cleats

3/qx51/z x 96" Pine (4 bd. f t . )Inside cleats

3/ tx31/z x 96" Pine (2.7 bd. f t . )

65

rt/e" round-over

I exnloDED vrEW

13h"

3/qu

3/a"\-J

13t/z'

long x 331/c" high.I For the items needed to build this

project, see page 69.

ior about $85 and from just one 4x8'Isheet of 3/+" plywood, you can buildI this sturdy shop accessory. Withbiscuit-ioined side and end frames andsimple rabbet-and-groove joinery, youcan easily complete it in a weekend. Weused birch plywood that cost less than$40 a sheet at a local home center. Sur-prisingly, that plywood came close to thequality of pricier Baltic birch plywood,having the same number of plies (13)and few voids for smooth, finished edges.As a cost-saving option, you can makethe cart from medium-density fiberboard(MDF), which runs about $20 a sheet.

Start with theside and end framesI from 3/+" plywood or MDR cut theI side stiles (A), side rails (B), end stiles

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1" hole s/e" deep1/2" -diam. self-adhesive rubber bumper

19Y2'

Note: Use holes in casters to locate holecenterpoints on bottom of part @.

R=11/2" 1"-diam. dowel2ot/q",long

7az" shank hole,countersunk

With the center side rail (B) positioned in theframe with spacers, mark the centerlines forbiscuit slots on the side stiles (A) and rails.

Mark the biscuit-slot centerlines acrossthe stile/rail joints, as shown. Also, iden-tify the bottom rail to ensure correctframe orientation later. NoW repeat the

#8 x 1Y4' F.H.wood screw

*rooir"uit---l"--,(l\fF":r^9,'?::r:#;#."02lz"(

ftl cnsrER LocATtoN DETAIL(Bottom view)

(C), and end rails (D) for the frameassemblies, shown on Drawing 1, to thesizes listed in the Materials List. To ensureyou'll get all of the cart parts from one4x8' sheet, refer to the Cutting Diagram,page 69.

arc mark centerlines for #10 biscuitlslots on the stiles and rails, wheredimensioned on Drawing 2, page 68, Iayout on a flat surface two side stiles (A)and three side rails (B) in the arrangementshown. To position the center side rail inthe frame where dimensioned, cut twoIxl0lz" spacers from 3/+" sctap. Place thespacers between the bottom and centerside rails, as shown in Photo A.

#8 x 11/q ' F.H.wood screw

3" swivelcaster

t/q" hole, Jyi lcountersunk +fr lq_20 x 11/q, F.H.

3" rigid.".t..---f,| machine screw

i l3:--'t/q" tlal washer

I Overall dimensions: 21" wide x 383/q"

6 7

I

I2%',

I

@o1 0 1/ l l/2

I1 0

E sroe AND END FRAME ASSEMBLTES

I13/a'

#1 0 biscuit-slot centerl ine

2e/q" for part@2t/q" tor part @

F 2,,t/z" tor pa14" for part

marking process for the remaining sidestiles (A), side rails (B), end stiles (C), andend rails (D), keeping the parts for eachframe together.

I na;ust the fence on your biscuitJioiner to center the blade on theplywood thickness. Then, with the partsclamped to your workbench for safety,plunge slots for #10 biscuits into the railsand stiles at the marked centerlines. Now,glue, biscuit, and clamp the parts togetherto form the frames, again using thespacers to position the center rail in eachframe assembly.

f fit your tablesaw with a dado blade-fthat matches your material thick-ness. Then, cut T+"-deep grooves alongthe length of the side and end frames onthe inside face, where dimensioned onDrawing 1. Keep the bottom edges of theframes firmly against the fence whencutting the bottom and center grooves,and the top edges against the fence whencutting the top groove.(Rttach an auxiliary fence to your riprf fence. Then, cut a 3/+" tabbetY+" deepalong the outside edge of the side stiles(A) on the inside face, where shown.

Add the shelves andassemble the cart! Cut the three shelves (E) to l8lzx3l".I To locate and drill the mounting

68

291/a'

holes for 3" casters through the bottomshelf, where shown on Drawing 1, posi-tion a caster on the bottom face of theshelf, where dimensioned on Drawing 1a.(We found the rigid and swivel casterswith brakes at a local home center.) Markthe centers of the mountingholes. Repeat at each corner ofthe shelf. Then, drill Yt" holesthrough the shelf at the markedcenterpoints, and countersinkthe holes on the top face sothe heads of Vq-2ox|l+" flatheadmachine screws will sit flushwith the shelf surface.

!Sand the sidejframes (A/B), endframes (C/D), andshelves (E) to 150grit. Then, to assem-ble the cart, glueand clamp a sideframe, end frame,and the bottom shelftogether, as shownin Photo B. (To mini-mize the number ofclamps needed, weassembled the cartin four stages.) Whenthe glue dries, glueand clamp the centershelf in position.

Glue and clamp a side frame (A/B), end frame (C/D), and the bottom shelf (E)together, making sure you close the frame corner joint by drawing the endframe t ight ly into the rabbet in the s ide f rame.

Next, glue the top shelf in place. Now,glue and clamp the remaining sideand end frames to the assembly.

p ennrs vrEW

HANDLE SUPPORT(Outside face shown)

LONG AND SHORT LID PANELS317/a"

j411^,, 1/t\ -7r 1.u

7a,,-_ 1" hole s/e" deep on inside face

t_r

-- After jigsawing 3" hole, iicrosscut blank here to liseparate lid panels., ii

\ir/z" bladestart hole

191/2"


With a 270'over lay hinge posi t ioned on a topend rai l (D), t ight ly against a s ide ra i l (B), dr i l lthe mount ing holes, and dr ive the screws.

Mount the casters, andcomplete the cart1 to mount two 3" rigid casters andI two 3" swivel casters with brakes to

the bottom shelf (E), where shownon Drawing 1, position the cart with anend frame on the floor. Now, attachthe casters using r/+-2ox7r/+" flatheadmachine screws, r/+" flat washers, andY+" lock nuts. Set the cart on the casters.

)Cut the top-shelf divider (F) to thejsize listed. Then, glue and clampthe divider to the top shelf (E), wheredimensioned.

I Cut the handle supports (G) to size.JOn the outside face of the supports,

mark centerpoints for four countersunkshank holes, where dimensioned onDrawing 3. Also, mark Yz" radii, whereshown. Next, on the inside face of thesupports, mark a centerpoint for a1" hole, where dimensioned. Drill thecountersunk shank holes. Then, usinga Forstner bit in your drill press, borethe 1" hole 3/e" deep. NoW bandsawand sand the radii to shape.Itrcm a l"-diameter birch dowel 36"

'tlong, cut a Zor/+"-long piece for thehandle (H).(fo mount the handle supports (G),rJdraw alignment lines on the topside rails (B) 1/+' from the top edge andextending 73/+" ftom the ends, where

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dimensioned on Drawing 1. Then, glueand clamp a handle support to a top rail,aligning the support with the markedIine. Drive the screws. Repeat to mountthe remaining support, making sure youcapture the handle (H) between thesupports in the 1" counterbores.1lCut a l9r/2x317/e" plywood blank tolfform the long and short lid panels(I, J). Draw a circle for a 3" hole (for fin-ger access) on the blank, where dimen-sioned on Drawing 3. Drill a r/2" bladestart hole iust inside the circle. Then,iigsaw the 3" hole to shape and sandsmooth. Next, position your tablesawfence 7Y+u from the inside face of a'7s"-kerf blade. Now crosscut the blankthrough the center, of the hole to sepa-rate the lid panels.

7fo mount four 27O" overlay hingesJ for the lids, where shown on Draw-ing 1, position a hinge on a top end rail(D), tight against a side rail (B), as shownin Photo C. Mark the mounting holes onthe inside face and top edge of the endrail. Using a 3" bit extender or magneticdrive guide for chuck clearance, drill theholes. Then, drive the screws suppliedwith the hinges. Repeat to mount theremaining hinges.

flPosition the long and short lid pan-lJels (1, J) on the cart with the finger-access hole straddling the top-shelfdivider (F). With the panels tight againstthe hinges and the edges flush with theoutside faces of the side rails (B), drillmounting holes centered in the slots ofeach hinge into the edges of the lids.(Note that the hinges offset each panelYra" towatd the center, leaving a Ya" gapbetween the panels.) Drive the screws.Then, open the lids and drill mountingholes centered in the hinge holes andslots into the bottom faces of the lids.Drive the remaining screws.

Finish up and get ready to rollI Remove the casters, long and short lidI panels (I, J), and hinges. Sand any

areas of the cart that need it to 150 grit,and remove the dust.

anpply two coats of a clear finish. (We&used Varathane Diamond Water-BasedPolyurethane, sanding to 220-grit smooth-ness between coats.)

lFinally, remount the casters and lidrJpanels. Open the lid panels andinstall a pair of r/2"-diameter self-adhesiverubber bumpers on each top side rail (B),where shown on Drawing'1. Now, clear offyour workbench, load the cart with yourtools and supplies, and start motoringaround the shop. IWritten by Owen DuvallProlect design: feff Mertz

side stiles

B side rails tAl 23A' 261/z'

C end stiles 3hu 2V+' 291A'

D end rails 3h' 23A', 14',

E shelves 3hn 18Y2'

F top+helf divider 3/cu 13/cu 18"

G handlesupports 3Au 21/q' 14Y2'

H handle 1"diam. 20Y4"

l* long lid panel 3hn 191h,, 241/z'

J* short lid panel 3A', 191h" 71/+',

*Parts initially cut oversize. 5ee the instructions.Materlals key: P-plywood, B-birch dowel.Suppller: #10 biscuits (24),3" rigid casters (2),3" swivelcasterswith brakes (2), %-20xVc" flathead machine screws (16),1/l'flatwashers (16), %" lock nuts (16), #8x17c" flathead wood screws (8),%'Ldiameter self-adhesive rubber bumpers (4).

Blade and bits: Dado-blade se! l" Forstner bit,3" bit extenderor magnetic drive guide.

SourceHinges: 270'overlay hinges no. 15455, 58.29 pr. (2 pr.).Call or click Rocflsy,gQQ{l i4441 ; rockler.com.

fl[l.lilaU

1"-diam.Birch dowel

36" long

lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna fohnson

e/+ x 48 x 96" Plywood

69

shop-in-a-bo* Tool Cabinet

Keep tools, hardware, and supplies organized in this space-saving 4-doorcabinet. Though it occupies little more than 7 square feet of wall area, it offersa full 26 square feet of storage on the perforated-hardboard panels alone!

bEooking for an easy-to-build projectthat makes a really big impacton reducing shop clutter and

improving work efficiency? Here it is.With identical case and door constructionusing simple rabbet-and-groove joinery,you can make this cabinet in a few eveningsor a weekend. For materials, you need onlya 4x8 sheet each of /+" perforated hard-board and3/+" plywood, plus a quarter-sheetof V+" hardboard.

Start with the caseI from 3/+" plywood, cut the sides (A)I and top and bottom (B) to the sizes

listed in the Materials List. (We used Balticbirch plywood, which we found at a localhome center, and applied a clear finish. Ifyou plan to paint the unit, you can useless-expensive type AC or BC plywood.)

70

Because the thickness of plywood varies,you may need to slightly adjust the sizesof some parts and the mating dadoesand rabbets.

lVark centerpoints for Y{ holes33/e' deep for shelf supports on theinside faces of the sides (A), wheredimensioned on Drawing 1. Dril l theholes using a brad-point bit in yourdrill press. Adjust the depth stop forconsistent drilling depth.

2 ti, your tablesaw with an auxiliaryrJ fence and dado blade that matchesthe thickness of your 3/r" plywood. Then,cut a 7a"-deep rabbet across the insidefaces of the sides (A) at each end, asshown in PhotoA.

lCut aY+" groove 7r" deep in the sides'ttn) and top and bottom (B) to fityour Yn" perforated hardboard for the

Though the case measures ju st' l2s/e" deep, ithouses al l four doors when c losed.


(lnside

s/a" rabbet e/s" deep

t/r" hingeclearance

Location ofouter-doorcontinuous

hinge i

Location ofinner-doorcontinuous

hinge

41/a"-

'/a .

Tse" shankholes,

countersunkon outside

face

Ta" rabbet=*i7a" deep

CASE SIDEof left side shown)

trface

1/q" holeTe" deep

/+" grooveg/e" deep3/+"'fromback edge

Keeping a s ide (A) t ight against an auxi l iaryfence and miter-gauge extension, cut a rabbetacross each end on the insideface.

back (C), where dimensioned on Draw-ings 1 and 2. To do this,first switch to astandard ya"-kerf blade in your tablesaw.Position the fence 3/t" from the inside ofthe blade. Then, cut a groove along theback edges of the sides, top, and bottomon the inside faces. Now, reposition thefence, as needed, and cut the grooves tofinal width to snugly fit the hardboard.Sand the parts smooth to 180 grit.(from r/a" perf.orated hardboard, cut a{373/+"-square piece for the back (C).Then, dry-assemble the sides (A), top andbottom (B), and back, and check that theparts fit together correctly. Make anyneeded adiustments. NoW glue andclamp the case together, measuring forequal diagonals to verify square. Drillmounting holes through the sides andinto the top and bottom, where shownon Drawing2, and drive the screws.(nrom 3/+" birch plywood, cut thelfshelf (D) to size. Then, from yourYt" perforated-hardboard cutoffs, cut two4x5/2" spacers. Position the shelf in thecase on the S/2"-tall spacers, as shownin Photo B. Drill the mounting holes,where dimensioned on Drawing 1, anddrive the screws.

lnroms/+" plywood, cut the mountingJ cleats (E) and spacer (F) to lVzx3l',.Bevel-rip one edge of each cleat at45", leaving aVs" flat, where shown onDrawing 2a.

flPosition the case on your work-tlfbench with the back (C) up. Then,glue and clamp a mounting cleat (E) inplace on the back, tight against the top(B), in the orientation shown on Drawing2a. From inside the case, drill holes(centered in the holes in the perforated-hardboard back, into the mountingcleat, where shown on Drawing2, anddrive the #8x%" flathead wood screws to

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With the shelf (D) on 51/2"-tall spacers andt ight against the back (C), dr i l l mount ing holesthrough the sides (A) into the shelf.

1/q" groove /a" deep3/+" Irom back edge #8 x 3" F.H.

wood screwdriven intowal ls tud

@cLEAT MouNlNc DETATL

s/q" rabbel3/8" deep

!3t7s'-<

3O7/e'.

51/z'

s/c" rabbel3/8" deep

Note: Right side@is a mirror image.

p cnse1/+" groove-3la" deep3h" trom back edge

Locations ofcontinuous

hinges #8 x 2" F.H.wood screw

Magnetic catcheswood screw driven into wall stud

11/2"

#8 x s/q" F.H.wood screw

Shelf support

#8 xe/+" F.H.wood screw

+1N IT ' l

i/i /r/321/z'

< / t l'/2

Inside

,11/2"21/a'\ t

7-

321/z'

Locationof part

7o+" pilot hole17e" deep

r

# 8 x 3 "

V+" groove 7a" deep 3/q" trom back edge12Y8"

-1

Align the inner-door h inge wi th the markedl ines, and press the taped hinge into p lace.Then, dr i l l the mount ing holes.

further stlengthen the attachment. In thesame way, glue and screw the spacer (F) tothe back, tight against the bottom (B).

Qfrom r/+" hardboard, cut a /2x31" strip

J for the bin stop (G). Glue and clampthe stop to the bottom (B), 4L/+'from thefront edge, dimensioned on Drawing 2.

I o i,llT#il#:"1 : il: ff ilH1".'Now, build the doorsI fo ensure that the outer and innerI doors fit into the case with 7a" clear-

ance at the top and bottom, where shownon Drawing 1, measure the openingsbetween the top and bottom (B) for theouter doors and the top and shelf (D) forthe inner doors. Then, from 3/+" plywood,cut the outer-door sides (I) and inner-door sides (J) to the sizes listed andlengths equal to your measured openingsminus /+". (Out sides measured 303/n" forthe outer doors and 24/2" for the innerdoors.) Also, cut the tops and bottoms (K)fo-r the outer and inner doors to size.

lfrom /a" perforated hardboard, cut the3 outer- and inner-door panels (L, M)to the sizes listed.

Q using a dado blade in your tablesaw,rJcut a 3/+" tabbet 3/e" deep across theends of each outer- and inner-door side(I, J) on the inside face, where shown onDrawing 3.

Ato crttVq" grooves %" deep in the doorrTsides (I, J) and tops and bottoms (K),where dimensioned on Drawing 3a, switchto a standard ys"-kerf blade. Position thefence llz" from the inside of the blade.Then, cut a pair of grooves along theinside face of each part, rotating the partend-to-end between cuts. Now, move thefence away from the blade as needed, andcut the parts again to widen the groovesand achieve a snug fit with your perfo-rated-hardboard panels (L, M).

72

Position a hinge on an inner-door side (J), witha /a" overhang. Measure from the back to thehinge to find the spacer width.

Clamp the spacer to the door, flush with theback edge. With the hinge t ight against thespacer, dril l the mounting holes.

1tl2" continuous hinge307a" long for outer door241/2" long for inner door

/+" groovess/s" degp

a/q" rabbetg/e" deep

t/n" grooves s/e" deep

parte

(Left door shown, viewed from back)

\_--7sz" shank hole. 4%<

countersunk

7/aq" pilolhofe 17e" 0""\

#8 x 2" F.H.wood screw

3OVc'24t/2"

p ooon

e

151/e'

cofor partfor part

Location ofstrike plateon part c

(Sand the door sides (I, J), tops and bot-rf toms (K), and panels (L, M) to 180 grit.Then, glue and clamp each door together,checking for square. Drill mounting holesthrough the sides and into the tops and bot-toms, where shown on Drawing 3, and drivethe screws. For ease in mounting the hingesand installing the doors later, identify thetop (K) of each door and the side (I, J) thatyou'll hinge-mount to the case.

L3/a"

f,fl DooR GRoovE DETATL

-l3/t'

I

1/^ t ,

, t ' / tvz ' ,


Posi t ion the r ight inner door in the case,al igning the hinge wi th the previously dr i l ledmounting holes. Drive the screws.

Add the easy-to-make bins! from 3/+" plyiood, cut the fronts (N)I and backs (O) for the eight bins to

the sizes listed. Then, from r/+" hardboard,cut the sides (P) and bottoms (Q) to size.

afuy out the angled edge on a side3(P), where dimensioned on Drawing4. Bandsaw or scrollsaw to the markedline, and sand smooth. Using this pieceas a template, mark the angle on theremaining side pieces, and cut and sandthem to shape.

I Sand the fronts (N), backs (O), sidesr, (P), and bottoms (Q) to 180 grit.Then, glue and clamp the parts togetherin the configuration shown.

54nd, then apply the finish1 ff needed, fill any voids in the ply-I wood edges with a paintable wood

putty, and sand smooth when dry. Then,sand any areas of the case, doors, shelves,and bins that need it to 180 grit, andease any sharp edges. Remove the dust.

a\ppty two coats of a clear finish,&sanding between coats. (We appliedVarathane Diamond Water-Based Poly-urethane, satin finish, sanding to 32Ogrit between coats.)

Complete the assemblyI Vdasrrre the lengths of th6 outer-I and inner-door sides (I, J). Then,

from two lVzx48" continuous hinges forthe outer doors and two llzx3o" hingesfor the inner doors, hacksaw the piecesto the measured lengths. To maintainthe correct orientation of the hingesduring assembly, mark the manufac-tured (uncut) ends "top."

afo position the hinges on the caseSsides (A), where dimensioned onDrawing 1, place the case on the left side.Draw alignment lines on masking tape1/e" from the top and bottom (B) for the

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Align the mounting flange of the magneticcatch with the marked centerline on the shelf(D). Mark the centers of the slots.

outer-door hinge and r/s" from the topand shelf (D) for the inner-door hinge tocenter the hinges top-to-bottom. Then,position the barrel of the inner-doorhinge ys" from the front of the shelf sothe door closes flush with the shelf. Todo this, adjust a combination square tothe distance from the front edge of theside to the shelf, less 7s". (We set oursquare to 4r/s".) NoW mark intersectinglines using the square.

2 fo mount the inner-door hinge, applyJ a few small pieces of cloth-backeddouble-faced tape to the case-side hingeleaf. With the hinge leaves positioned at90o, and the marked top end of the hingecorrectly oriented, align the hinge withthe marks, as shown in Photo C, andpress it into place. Using a self-centeringbit, drill the mounting holes. Then, drivethe screws (supplied with the hinge) intothe two top andbottom holes to pre-thread them foreasier mounting ofthe cabinet door.Remove the screws,hinge, and tape.

In the same way,mount the outer-doorhinge, except posi-tion it so that thebarrel overhangs thefront edge of the caseby Ye". Use a combi-nation square or az/+"-wide strip of %"hardboard as analignment aid to setthe hinge overhang.NoW reposition thecase on the right side(A), and repeat thehinge-marking andmounting process.

Icnerruer

!l erru

6/a'

ATo mount the hinges onto the doors,t'Jwhere shown on Drawing 5, place ahinge for an inner door along the

front edge of the side (J) identified forhinge-mounting to the case. With thehinge leaves positioned at 90o, the topof the hinge at the top of the door, andthe ends flush, align the hinge so thatthe barrel overhangs the edge by t4".

Measure from the back of the door tothe hinge for a spacer, as shown in PhotoD. (We measured 33/eu.) Then, f.rom Ve"hardboard, cut a 2O"-long piece to yourmeasured width. NoW clamp the spacerto the door, and mount the hinge, asshown in Photo E, driving all of thescrews. Repeat for the other doors.(Position the case on the right sider, (A), and screw-mount the right innerdoor, as shown in Photo F. Raise the doorto the closed position. Then, mount theright outer door. Using a helper, reposi-tion the case on the left side. Mount theremaining doors.

(3/qu

D

1tl2" continuous hinge 24-1/2" long

Note: Right outer door removed for clarity.

73

(t" mount magnetic catches to holdtlfthe doors closed, where shown onDrawing 2, position the strike plates onthe back edges of the inside door sides(I, J), where dimensioned on Drawing 3,noting the different locations for theouter and inner doors. Drill the pilotholes, and drive the screws suppliedwith the catches.

Next, mark the center of the shelf (D)on a piece of masking tape positionedbehind the inner doors, as shown inPhoto G. Mate a catch to the strike plateon the left inner door. Holding the frontof the door and shelf flush, align thecatch with the centerline, as shown.Mark the centers of the mounting slots.Drill the holes, remove the tape, andscrew-mount the catch. In the sameway, mount the catch for the right innerdoor, tight against the left-door catch.Then, mark the center of the shelf (D)on the bottom face at the front edge.Now, mount the catches for the outerdoors, aligning the catches with thecenterline.

7to mount the unit, hold the remain-J ing mounting cleat (E) level on yourwall, with the beveled edge positionedwhere shown on Drawings 2 and 2a. Drillcountersunk mounting holes through

Cutting Diagram

l/q x 48 x 96" Perforated hardboard

Lock hooks to perforatedhardboard in d snapHere's a simple and inexpensive way to securestandard, nonlocking hooks to perforatedhardboard so they won't come out. Strap them inplace with M-style hook holders. Just center aholder over the hook shank, and press the barbedends into an adjacent pair of holes, as shown. Youeasily can release the holders to reposition thehooks. The holders fit standard 9-gauge andheavy-duty S-gauge hooks used in Va" and 1/c"hardboard with %0" or e/tz" holes spaced 1" apart.A bag of 50 clips, no. 1169485, costs $11.89 fromMcMaster- Carr, 404 -34 6 -7000, mcmaster.com.

the cleat into the wall studs, and fastenwith #8xZVz" flathead wood screws.Using a helper, hang the unit. Then,from inside the cabinet, drill mountingholes, centered in holes in the back (C),through the case mounting cleat (E) andspacer (F) into the studs to anchor theassembly to the wall.(f Finally, install the shelves (H) where(Oyo.t wish, using %" shelf supports.Place the bins in the cabinet behind thebin stop (G), where shown on Drawing5. Tidy up your shop by filling the cabi-net with tools, hardware, and supplies.

Hang shop items on the perforated-hardboard panels using suitable Vt'metal hooks, available at your localhome center or hardware store. For asimple way to keep hooks securely inplace, t.. ih. shopiip, above. *Written by Owen DuvallProject design: feff Mertzl l lustrat ions: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna fohnson

sides 125/s' 32lz^

B too and bottom 3/i' 125/a' 313/i'

C back yi' 3tth' 313h'

D shelf 3/q' 73/s' 31 " BP

E mounting cleats 3/i' lyi'

F spacer 3/qn 11/z' 31 "

G bin stop Vi' t/zu 31.

shelves vi' 3vd' 307/t'

I outer-door sides 303/i'

J inner-door sides 3/i' 4Va' 24lz'

t/i' 4t/s' 14Yi'

, outer-door' panels1/q' 141/t' 30" PH

1/qx24 x 48"Hardboard

Find more free shop proiect planswoodmagazine.com/freeplans

BP

4t/s'

* tops andooltoms

M inner-doorpaners

1/i' 14Vi 233/c',

fronts

0 backs 3/i' 3Vc' 4Vl'

P sides Yi' 4Vc' 63/i'

0 bottoms Yi' 33/i' 63/q' H 8

Materlals key: BP-Baltic birch plywood, PH-perforatedhardboard, H-hardboard.

Supplies: #8x%" flathead wood screws (6); #8x2" flatheadwood screws (48); #8x21/2" flathead wood screws (2); #8x3"flathead wood screws (4); cloth-backed double-faced tape;11/2x48" continuous hinges (2) and I %x30" continuous hinges(2); paintable wood putty;magnetic catches (4); 7i'shelfsupports (8); 7+' perforated-hardboard hooks.

Blade and blt: Dado-blade set, %" brad-point bit.

3yi'13/q'3/c'

3/q x 48 x 96" Baltic birch plywood

74

at:


Stool &Tool-ToteComboThis simplestep up foraround the

tand it upright, and you've got asturdy stool for reaching the top ofyour lumber rack or doing house-

hold chores. Flip the stool over, fill itwith tools, and you're ready to tackle arepair anywhere on your property.

To cut the pieces to size and shape, usethe dimensions on the drawing. Miter-cut both ends of the legs at 15'. Use r/2"

plywood for the top, sides, and ends. Forthe legs and handle, cut 2x4 stock to size.Cut a Vz" groove Vz" deep, centered alongthe inside face of each leg. Mark the slot,drill a blade-start hole, and cut the handleopening in the top to shape. Cut the arcsin the ends. Rout 7a" round-overs alongthe handle opening and on the remain-ing parts, where shown at right. Glue,clamp, and screw the project together inthe configuration shown. Sand smooth,and add a finish. CF

Project design: Lynn Lawrenz, Algoma, Wis,

Find more shop project plans at:, : i i r i ! - i i j i ' i ; . ) i i , r - i " . : i . . . : - . -

" , . , 1 i - i ' :

Try a "greeJr" version of the stoolWe designed this stool and tool-totecombo so you can bui ld i t f rom commonlyavai lable mater ia ls. l f you have access toconstruction debris, repurpose that wasteby building the project from it. That'show the stool's designer, Lynn Lawrenz,constructs them. "The raw materials areheaded for the landf i l l , unt i l I snag themfor stools," says Lawrenz. "l 've given awaydozens of them, always in pairs, because

woodmagazine.com

" ; \ ' : , . 1 ' . . . . , ' j '

, .. .. , -,.,.i', , ' . . . , ' ! . . . : . i .

r t*, , ; ' i . - l t l . ; i ,i i$,t . . : . . ' r . , , . i r

i ' ' ' . r : : ' i . - 1 I

I

carner rs aodd jobshome.

'l t/2" slot St/q" long, centered

#B x2" F.H. wood screw--\ i

23/q"

C23/q'

Countersunk shank hole

1 5 'miter

4)71 5 "

1/2" groovej/2" deep

#B x 11 /z ' F .H .wood screw

7a" round-OVETS 1V2"1

7e" round-overs(

\v 'Countersunkshank hole

7a" round-over

people l ike to set a plank on top of thestools when spread apart for paint ing andother chores."

ln his version (see photo right), the endpanels/ legs are scraps of 12" engineeredl- jo ists, the cross brace/handle jo in ingthem is a 2x2" cutoff, the top is discardedroof sheathing ( typical ly or iented-strandboard), and the side panels are cut toshape from sparel/2" cabinet plywood.

/8" round-overs

1 "

75

rable'#Tirdlflfr.?[tr'Attention, small-shop and garage-shopwoodworkers: Here's a project designedwith you in mind. lt's a combinationworkbench and outfeed table. Plus, forthe space-starved shop, it stores in thesame footprint as your tablesaw.

Use it asan outfeed

't''table ...

g

Watch a FREE two-minute video of theTablesaw Workbench in action at:

wood nra g azi n e.co m /vi d eos

I Overal l d imensions:61Vz" wide x321/a" deep x 393/td" high (casters inthe down position).

I You can customize the workbench tofit any type of tablesaw. The work-bench shown at left fits a contractor'smodel with a 30" fence.

I Levelers let you adjust the bench tomatch your tablesaw height for use asan outfeed table.

I To renew the worksurface, simply fl ipor replace the3A" plywood top panel.

I For the items needed to build thisproject, see opposite poge. You'll findthe Supplies at home centers. Forthe casters, see Source.

Ski l l Bui lderI Learn how to form large dadoes and

rabbets using your tablesaw fence asa workpiece stop.

l\lote: To position the workbench over yourtablesaw, remove the blade guard, rip fence,and miter gauge. The bench dimensionsallow L" clearance at the top of the tablesawand 1" clearance at each side. There is nofront-to -b ack clearance. With the wo*benchpositioned over the tablesaw, the back-fencerail touches the inside of the upper-back rail(F) [Drawing 4], and the back of the front-fence rail rests against the front legs (C).

Best Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

assembly

Measure your tablesawNo matter the type of tablesaw you own, or howit's accessorized, you can customize this proiectto fit your needs.

I Veasure your tablesaw [ ], and enter theI dimensions in the empty brackets. (Our

sample tablesaw dimensions are shown in paren-theses.) If by chance your saw dimensions matchthose of the sample tablesaw, stop here. Simplyuse the part dimensions for the sample tablesawshown on the Materials List at bottom.

lfor dimensions in brackets larger or smallerjthan the ones in parentheses (Drawing t),here's how to size the workbench to your tablesaw.(Don't let the following lengthy explanationscare you off. The process is really quite simple.)I Subtract the smaller length dimension from thelarger one. Enter the difference in the L columnunder the CALCULATE heading on the MaterialsList for parts A, D, E, H, J, and K, and in the Wcolumn for part N. Precede with a plus symbol (+)for a length in brackets larger than the one inparentheses, and a minus symbol (-) for a lengthin brackets smaller than the one in parentheses.I Subtract the smaller height dimension from thelarger one. First, enter the difference in the Lcolumn under the CALCULATE heading for partC, and in the W column for part E. Precede witha plus symbol for a height in brackets larger thanthe one in parentheses, and a minus symbol fora height in brackets smaller than the one inparentheses.I Subtract the smaller width dimension from thelarger one. Enter the difference in the L columnunder the CALCULATE heading for parts F, G, I,and N. Precede with a plus symbol for a width inbrackets larger than the one in parentheses, and aminus symbol for a width in brackets smallerthan the one in parentheses.I Divide the width dimension difference (deter-mined in the previous step) by 4. Record thedividend in the L column under the CALCULATEheading for parts L and M. Precede with a plus orminus symbol, as directed above.I For awidth dimension in brackets smaller thanthe one in parentheses, divide the dimensiondifference by 2.Enter the dividend in the L col-umn under the CALCULATE heading for part B.Preceded with a minus symbol. (Do not makepart B longer than the length listed for the sampletablesaw.)I Now add the numbers in the W and L columnsunder the CALCULATE heading to, or subtract themfrom, the W and L dimensions under the SAMPLETABLESAW heading. Enter the new dimensions inthe W and L columns under the YOUR TABLESAWheading. Then, to avoid confusion, cross out theobsolete SAM PLE TABLESAW dimensions.

NoW for example, let's say your tablesaw mea-sures 3OYzu long, and you've entered this numberon Drawing 1 in the brackets under Length. In thiscase, complete the row in the Materials List as shown(Exampf e, right center).

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Length: Measure from the backof the front-fence railto theback edge of the back-fence rail.

Height: Measure from thefloor to the top of thesaw table.

Width: Measure the maximumdimension, including the sawtable, wings, extensions, !and 6ack-Tence rail. I

*Parts initially cut oversize, See the instructions.

Materials key: LM-laminated maple, M-maple, LP-laminated pine, P-pine, BP-birch plywood.

Supplies: #8x1th",#8x11/2",#8x2",#8x21/z"flatheadwoodscrews;%"levelerswithT-nuts(4);1/4x11/2" hexheadbolts (6); 7+x2" hexhead bolts (24); %" washers (52); 7i' lock nuts (32);%x2" eyebolts (2);Ts" washers (6);7sx%x36" steel bar;/rx36" schedule 40 steel pipe (2).

Bladec and bits: Stack dado set; %" round-over and 45" chamfer router bits.

SourceCatters:4" swivelcaster with brake no,36992, 51039 ea. (4). Call Hartville Tool,800-345-2396, or go tohartvilletool.com.

tr-

T-Length(291h')t l

Note: Our tablesaw dimensions are shown in parentheses.

EXAMPLE' ]}.iI.J3 O1 /2" _291 / a,' =11 /4,,

Step 4 Step 2 Step 3Cross out The length in 233/q"+11/t"=25"the obsolete brackets is largerdimension. than the length in

parentheses.

I front/ back trim 3/i' 2Y2' 611/2"

7 7

7e" drill bit

/

With 3%" of pipe protruding from one end of the pivot block (A), dri l lholes through the block and pipe at the marked hole centers.

lR.

With washers, a spacer, and the lever assembly in place, mark the pipelength and lever attachment bolt-hole location.

l/q x 2"bott p ervor ASSEMBLY

l/q x 11/2" hexhead bolt\

-- \ F 1/a x 3/q x 9" steel bar

f[ervor BLocK

@%" bolt -inserted to T

-.keep thepipe-/

@

Build the pivot assembliesI for the pivot blocks (A), cut four3/t"-I thick pieces of stock to the width

and length listed. (We used maple. Ifyou've adiusted the length of part A, besure to use the new length.) Then, mak-ing two passes with a dado blade, cutcentered grooves in each piece (Drawings2 and 2a). Clamp the pieces together inthe arrangement shown, and verify that72" schedule 40 steel pipe slips throughthe square hole. Now, glue and clampthe pieces, keeping the ends and edgesflush.

2tuy out the hole centers on the bot-Itom face of each pivot block (A)(Drawing 2a). (Use the caster plates tolocate the caster-mounting holes.) Drillonly the caster-mounting holes.

Q Cut two levers (B) to size. RoutJ stopped round-overs along the edges(Drawing 2). Then, from a1/ex3/+x36" steelbar, cut four 9"-long pieces. Drill holeswhere shown. Now, position a bar oneach lever, with the bar protruding 1"beyond the end of the lever. Using theholes in the bar as guides, mark holepositions on each lever. Also, mark thehole center at the opposite end of eachlever. Drill the holes using your drillpress. Bolt the bars to the levers.

;f StiOe a 36"-long piece of 1/2" schedule'l+O steel pipe into each pivot block(A), letting the pipe protrude 37e" at oneend. Then, drill the four 7a" holes that gothrough both the pivot block and pipe,where previously marked (Photo A). Tokeep the pipe from shifting in the pivotblock, insert bolts into the holes as youdril l them.

78

t/+" washgr

E fo cut the pipes to finished length,rJ first cut a 3"-long spacer from 2x4scrap. [The spacer represents the thick-ness of a leg (C).1 Drill a centered 7/e" holethrough the 3" dimension. Then, slidetwo washers and the spacer onto the longprotruding pipe end of one pivot block(A) assembly. Apply masking tape to the

pipe. With the lever (B) and pivot blockaligned horizontally, mark the finishedlength and the bolt-hole location (PhotoB). Repeat with the other assembly. NoWmark the pipes and pivot blocks for reas-sembly, remove the pipes, and cut themto length. Using a V-block on your drillpress, drill the bolt holes.

1/zu

schedule40 steel

pipe31tle" long

r/q" hole

tZ" stopped round-overs

*Sized to accept t/z" schedule 40

*7/a" groove z/ta" deep,centered on inside face

T3"

IUse the holes in a caster plateto locate the mounting holes.


p eruo AssEMBLY f[uvelER DETATL(BACK LEG SHOWN)t"11;."

3" dado #B x 11/z' F.H.1t/2" deep wOOd SCrew

#B x 21/2" F.H.wood screw

341/z'

Assemble the endtI for the legs (C), cut eight 2x4I pieces Vz" Ionger than listed. Lami-

nate them in pairs to form four 3x3Vz"blanks. Then, joint one edge smooth, ripthe opposite edge to width, and crosscutthe legs to length. To avoid problemswhen building proiects from construc-tion lumber, see the Shop Tip, below.

arc form 3"-wide dadoes in the insideifaces of the legs (C) (Drawing 3),install a3/+" dado blade in your tablesaw,

Hory to keep constructlonlumber straightConstruction lumbe r (2x4s, 2x6s, etc.)has a high moisture content. Whenbrought into a shop, the lumber driesout, causing it to shrink and oftentwist. Of course, lour project will gotogether easier with straight lumber.Here's a s imple solut ion.

First, select lumber that does notinclude the center (pith) of the tree.Cut the parts to rough length as soonas you bring the lumber home. Then,place the parts in a trash bag, as shownaI right, and close it with a twist tie.Remove the parts for machining, and

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return them to the bag unti l you areready to assemble them. After buildingthe project, the wood dries, but nowtwisting of any one part is restrained bythe other parts.

) 2i/q,

,/ \ ) a"/o"

//tr\r -'-'rl | -

BACK LEG

z/e" washer

s/e" leveler

6

and adiust it to cut lVz" deep. To estab-lish one edge of the dadoes, position thefence 5" from the right side of the blade,and attach an extension to the mitergauge to back the cuts. Then, using thefence as a stop, cut a dado at both endson the inside face of each leg. Next, toestablish the other edge of the dadoes,reposition the fence 8" from the /eff sideof the blade. Again using the fence as astop, cut a second dado at each end of all

S" rabbets/q" deep

four legs. Now, make repeat cuts toremove the waste.

2fo form the 8"-wide rabbets at therJtop and bottom of the back legs (C)(Drawings 3 and 3a), leZrve the tablesawset up as in the previous step, but lowerthe blade to cut 3/+" deep.Then, makingsure you will have mirror-image parts,cut dadoes at both ends of the back faceof the back legs. NoW make repeat cutsto remove the waste from the dadoes tothe ends of the legs.

iloritt zs holes for the pivot assembly'Tpipes at the bottom of each leg(Drawing 3a). Then, drill a hole for theleveler T-nut.(Cut the end rails (D) to size. Glue{ and clamp them into the leg (C)dadoes, with the rail ends flush with thefront surface of the front legs and therabbeted surface of the back legs (Draw-ing 3). Check the assemblies for square.Then, drill holes, and drive the screws.(For #8 screws in softwood, drill 7r2".shank holes and3/sz" pilot holes.)(C"t the end panels (E) to size. Gluelfand clamp the panels to the endrails (D), a with the top of each panelflush with the top of the upper rail. Drillscrew holes, and drive the screws.

79

Countersunkshank hole

11/2"

Complete the base

t/q" hole 1" deep,dril led after assembly

t'T| 8 "

J

I Cut the back rails (F) to size. DnllT/a"I holes for the pipe in the lower rail

(Drawing 4). Join the end assemblies(ClDlE) with the back rails (F), and glueand screw the rails in place (Drawing 4and Photo C).Note: Locate the screw holes in the backrails (F) so they don't interpre with thescrews that fosten the end rails (D) to thekgs (C). To avoid interfering with the leglevelers, use a 7/2"-long screw at the loweroutside corners of the bottom back rail.

a Appty a finish to the pivot blocks (A)jand levers (B). (For an easy-to-applyand easy-to-repair finish, we applied twocoats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish.)Attach the casters to the pivot blocks(Drawing 2).

Q ltace the base upside down on theJ floor, and slide the pipes throughthe legs (C), washers, pivot-block (A)assemblies, and lower back rail (F) (Draw-ing 3). Align the pivot-block holes with

l/q x 2" eyebolts

;il;;&'' #8 x2t/2" F.H. wood screw

the pipe holes, and bolt the pipes inplace (Drawing 2). Now, slip a washer anda lever (B) assembly onto each pipe, andbolt the levers in place (Drawing 4).

1l Aanere masking tape to the lowerTback rail (F) at the location of thelever (B) ends when the casters are in thedown position. Draw a line on the tape73A" from the bottom edge of the rail.Drill holes in the rail for the eyeboltlever pins (Drawing 4, Photo D). Apply

Position of @with the casters up

tape to the upper back rail at the loca-tions of the lever ends when the castersare in the up position. Mark lines on thetape lYz" from the ends of the rail. Rotatethe levers so the casters are in the upposition, and drill 1"-deep holes throughthe rail and into the legs (C).( furn the base right side up. Cut theJ rcIl stiffener (G) to size, and glueand clamp it to the top edge of the lowerback rail (F) (Drawing 4).

-'-'-&.-""g_.* .

EGlue and clamp the back rai ls (F) into the end assembly leg (C)rabbets. Check for square, dri l l screw holes, and drive the screws.

80

tr .E+!-

JbFUsing the hole in the lever (B) as a guide, al ign the dri l l bi t with themarked l ine, and dri l la lever-pin hole through the rai l (F).

tZ" washers

ffir'gwr*.*-


edge of the trim protruding 3/+" beyondthe tops of the legs (Drawing 5). (Use ascrap of 3/q" plywood for a gauge.) Drillscrew holes and drive the screws. (For #Bscrews in hardwood, drill 5/32" shankholes and7/e+" pilot holes.)

lCut the top supports (J), endAcleats (K), outercleats (L), and inner

r r r v r r /

/

in place, with the top I€/

cleats (M) to size. #B x 2" F.H. YiThen, clamp the parts wooo screw

Clearancenotch, cut

after assembly

s/o" chamferrouted after-,,,,..,,,-3ll"ro'u

edges 3/su below the o--

top edges of the endtr im (H) and fronttr im ( l) , and with the topedges of the top supportsflush with the top edge of theupper back rail (F) (Drawing 5). Nowdril l screw holes and drive the screws.Retrieve the back trim, and clamp it tothe upper back rail. Dril l screw holes,and drive the screws.

Q Cut the top (N) to size. Clamp it inrJ place, resting on the upper back rail(F), top supports (J), and cleats (K, L, M).Drill screw holes, and drive the screws.Rout a %0" chamfer along the outer edgesof the trirn (H, I).

APosition the workbench over yourTtablesaw. On the inside face of theupper back rail (F), mark the location ofany part of the tablesaw that protrudesbeyond the back-fence rail and interfereswith the upper back rail. Then, transferthe marks to the outside face of theupper back rail. Now, lay out a notch,adding 1" of clearance all around theobstruction. Jigsaw and sand the notch.

Apply finish and hardware! tnspect the bench, and finish-sand,I where needed. Ease any sharp edges

with a sanding block. Apply the finish.

aTap the T-nuts into the holes in theZbot toms of the legs (C) , and screw inthe levelers. Insert eyebolts into the lever(B) end holes, and secure them withwashers and lock nuts (Drawing ).

Using the workbench1 to use the bench as a tablesawI outfeed support, rotate the levers (B)

to the vertical position (casters up), andinsert the protruding ends of the eye-bolts into the holes in the upper backrail (F). Adjust the levelers so the benchheight matches your tablesaw height.

#8 x 11/q" F.H.wood screws

Iroe

Af" position the bench over your3tablesaw, first remove the bladeguard, miter gauge, and rip fence fromthe tablesaw. Then, withdraw the eye-bolts from the holes in the upper backrai l (F). Rotate the levers (B) to the hori-zontal position (casters down), andinsert the eyebolts into the holes in thelower back rail (F). Now, roll the benchinto place, and depress the caster lockswith your foot. .F

Wr i t ten by f an Svec w i th Chuck Hed lundPro jec t des ign : fe f f Nor r is , De l ta , B .C.l l lus t ra t ions : Roxanne LeMoine ; Lorna fohnson

'-;4)-' ,/ '/. / # B x 2 "\ / r.H. wood

L screw

Cutting Diagram

3/q x71/q x 96" Maple (5.3 bd. f t . )

11/2x31/z x 120" Pine (2x4) (2 needed)

11 /2x31 /z x 96" P ine (2x4 )

11 /2x31 /z x 120" P ine (2x4 )

3/qx51/z x 96" Maple (4 bd. f t . )

3/qx51/z x 96" Maple (4 bd. f t . )

s/q x 48 x 96" Birch plywood

woodmagazine.com

f ust as with clamps, you neverseem to have enough storage.This easily built project will serveyour storage needs in spades.Use it for lumber or as a catchallin the garage or basement. Plus,using 1/2" plywood and 2x4s forits construction, you'll f ind thisproject very affordable.

Note: Our unit measures 99" long andrests on four casters for mobility. Sizethe unit to suit your needs, and omit thecasters if mobility is not a requirement.

! Cut the 2x4, plywood, and perfo-I rated hardboard parts A,B,C,D,E,F

to the sizes listed in the Materials List.

2O" a flat surface, drill countersunkAmounting holes, and screw the shelfsupports (A, B) together to form fourrectangular 2x4 frames. Note that thebottom frame uses four Bs, and theother frames use just two.

QCtue and screw the four plywoodrJshelves (C) to the 2x4 frames.Check each for square. Sand or rout

slight round-overs to break the sharpedges along the top edges of the r/2"plywood shelves.lCtue and screw the four uprights

-f(D) to what will be the bottom shelfassembly (A, B, C). Use a framing squareto ensure squareness and plumb of theuprights to the shelf assembly.(Scre* the bottom four verticalJsupports (E) to the inside faces ofthe uprights (D).

/Position the next shelf assembly ontlftop of the vertical supports, asshown in Photo A.

/nepeat Steps 5 and 6 to secure allf the supports and shelf assemblies tothe uprights. Before screwing the top

' l

!-- - ; rQuiqh-and-easy

- - ( f

l + r L

-t

.-v


#B x 1 1/2" F.H. wood screw

Note: Attach@tow i th #12 x 1 "

end supports @panhead screws.

tZ" pedoratedfor hanging tools

Optionalhardboard

vert icalsupports (E) into posit ion, and add ashelf assembly. Continue the process to thetop of the project.

woodmagazine.com

207/e'

#B x 3" F.H. wood screw

#8 x 21/2" F.H. wood screw

four supports (E) in place, make surethe top of the top shelf sits flush with thetop ends of the uprights (D). If necessary,trim the top four vertical supports.O Cut the perforated hardboard end(CDpanel (F) io fit between two uprights(D) for additional storage on one or bothends of the unit. Add hooks for hangingtools, accessories, or supplies.

OLuy the unit on its side and attacht 4u heavy-duty swivel-lock castersto the bottom, if desired. Paint thecompleted project, if desired.rF

Pro jec t des ign : Chuck Hed lundl l lus t ra t ion : Roxanne LeMoine ; Lorna fohnson

B end supports 11/2" 3yi' 207/a' C 10C shelves 1/z' 237/s' 96' PL

D uprights 11/2" 3yz* 717/ar C

E vertical supporrs 1yi' 3yi' l}yd' C 12F end panel Vi' 16Ue' 71Ua" PH 1

Materials key: C-choice of pine or fir 2x4, Pl-plywood,PH-perforated hardboard.

Supplies: %" lag screws 17r' long (16),4" heavy-dutyswivel-lock casters (4), #12x1 " panhead screws, #8x3"flathead wood screws, #8x2%" flathead wood screws,#8xl1l" flathead wood screws.

7 17/a'

A horiz. front &back supports 1Vz' 3Vi' 96', C

1/sz" p i lot hole

Materials List

time, glue and screw the 2x4

'l

IIt

J

fl ooon EXPLoDED vrEW(2 doors needed)

#6xs/a" F.H. wood screw s/+" rabbel s6" deeo

1/4" carriage bolI11/a" long -1t/2" rabbel Ta" deep

# 5 x % ' F . H .wood screw

%0" pi lot holes/e" deep onback face

2" cont inuoushinge, 60" long

s/q" rabbel7a" deep

4 ' cas te r

With the edges of the door- f rame membersf lush, c lamp the assembly together wi thsquar ing braces. You can make s imple bracesfrom scrap 32" plywood.

1/2" dado 7e" deep

43/q"

3/a"

s/q" rabbel3/a" deep

Note: For o turturol-wood look and void-freeedges, we used Baltic birclt plywood for ourcabinet, and applied a clear firtislt. Bttt,as ct less expensive alternative, you also canuse type AC or BC plywood, partictrlarly ifyou plan to paint the cabinet.

Start with the doors! frorn 3/+" plywood, cut the door sidest (A) and tops and bot toms (B) to the

sizes l istecl in the Materials List. I .romVz" plywood, cut the shelves (C) to size.

?O" the inside face of the side pieces,&rout r/2" dadoes 7a" deep to receivethe shelves, where dimensioned onDrawing 1. Then, rout3/+" rabbets %" deepacross the ends of the sides to accept thetops and bottoms. Now, rout a Vz" rabbet7a" deep along the back edge of the sides,tops, and bottorns to receive the back (D).

Note: To rout the /2" and 3/s" rabbets snddadoes in this project, we used 3/8" and /2"straigltt bits, respectively, making two passesto size the joirtts exactly to fit the matingplywood parts.

woodmagazine.com

4" casterwith brake

c

I Ctue and assemble a door's sides,Jtop, bottom, and shelves, as shownin Photo A, using squaring braces to keepthe assembly square. With the glue dry,sand the door frame's surfaces and edgesto 22O grit. Repeat to assemble the otherdoor frame.

ffromr/2" plywood, cut the backs (D)-Tto size. Sand thern to 220 grit, andrernove the dust. Glue a back in the rab-beted opening in each door frame, andclarnp it securely all around the frame.( From 1/2" plywood, cut the verticalJspacers (E) and horizontal spacers(F) to size. Then, glue and nail thespacers inside each door to the back (D),where shown on Drawing 1.

Alote: Because actual plywood thicknessesvary from their nominal dimensions,measure all inside dimensions of the toolcabinet. Cttt the spocers, and later the upperand lower shelves (L, M) and shelf edging(N), to the necessary length for the best fit.

/ Brush or spray the inside and out-l fside of the doors with a f inish ofyour choice. (We brushed on three coatsof Minwax satin polyurethane, sandingto 220 gri t between coats.)

f Cut the perforated hardboard panelsf (G) to size. Screw them to eachdoor's spacers, where shown.

# B x 1 " F . H .wood screw

#18 x s/q" brads

1/a'

85

@

Adjust your router 's edge guide to center the bi t wi th in the width ofa side (H), and rout a 3/c" groove from the bottom to the dado for thecenter shel f ( l ) . Make two or more passes to reach the 3/a" depth.

Build the center cabinet

I from 3/+" plywood, cut the sides (H),I bottom and center shelf (I), top (J),

and divider (K) to size. On the insideface of the sides, rout 3/+" rabbets 7a"deep to receive the bottom shelf andtop and rout a 3/q" dado %" deep toaccept the center shelf, where dimen-sioned on Drawing 2. Rout a centered %"groove 7s" deep into the sides to acceptthe divider, as shown in Photo B. Usingthe same setup, rout the matinggrooves for the divider in the bottomand center shelf.

)Sand the parts to 220 grit, dry-aassemble them, and verify they fitcorrectly. Then, glue and clamp theparts together, again using squaringbraces to keep the assembly square.When the glue dries, apply the finish.

I V.uture the openings between therJbottom and center shelf (I) andbetween the center shelf and top (J).(Our openings measwed 28V2" for thebottom and 29r/+" for the top.) From

*e*&q**..

Clamp scrap3/ t" p lywood spacers f lush to the edges of each s ide (H).Posi t ion the shel f s tandard against the spacers, and mark the screwholes wi th an aw!.

3O"-long steel shelf standards, hacksaweight pieces to length to fit the bottomopenings and four pieces to length to fitthe top opening.zl Position the four standards for the

.ltop opening on the sides (H), andmark the mounting-screw hole loca-tions, as shown in Photo C. Then, dri l lYte" pllot holes 7/rc" deep at the markedlocations, and screw the standard to thesides. Following the same process,mount the four outer standards into thebottom openings. Then, mount thefour inner standards to the sides, usingthe 3/+" spacers to position them parallelto the divider (K).

(Position 4" casters on the bottomsJ (8, I), where dimensioned onDrawing 3. Mark the centers of thecasters' mounting-bolt holes, and drill/a" holes through the bottoms at themarked locations. Bolt the casters tothe bottoms, as shown, making sureto locate the casters with brakeswhere shown.

Hinge the doors tothe cabinetI Using a hacksaw, cut two 2x72"I continuous hinges to a length of

60". Align the doors and the centercabinet on a flat surface with the backside facing up, and clamp them together.(See the Shop Tip, below left.)

lCenter the hinges along the door/lcenter-cabinet joints. Drill lre" pilotholes 7s" deep into the centers of thehinge screw holes, and drive the screws.NoW set the tool cabinet upright onthe casters.

Add the shelvesI From t/+" plywood, cut the upperI shelves (L), lower shelves (M), and

edging (N) to size. (Again, it's a goodidea to measure the inside width of thecabinet, both between the sides (H) forthe edging and the shelf standards forthe shelving, and cut the parts to theexact length for a snug fit.)

)Ctue and clamp the-edging to the upper andlower shelves, where shownon Drawings 2 and 4. Centerthe edging so it overhangsthe shelves by l/eu at eachend. When the glue has dried,sand the shelves to 22O grit,trim to length, and apply thefinish. With the finish dty,clip the shelf supports in thestandards at the desired loca-tions, and install the shelveson the supports.


How to install continuous hinges

When attaching doors with continuous hinges,such as for the tool cabinet, leave al/'rc" gap betweenthe members to be hinged. The gap wil l preventpotent ia l h inge b ind ing due to wood movement ,which could keep the parts from closing togethert ightly. To establ ish the gap, place %0"-thick woodspacers between the parts as needed, and thenclamp the parts together.

86

I cerurER cABINETEXPLODED VIEW

%a" pi lot hole7e" deep

3/'ta"

holes

@ sneruNc DETATL

%o" pilot hole tAa

Steel shelf standard%" rabbet 3/a" deeo

" deep

\\ #5 x s/s" F.H.

- wooo screw

%0" pi lot hole7a" deep onback face

2" continuoushinge, 60" long

s/q" dadoTe" deep

3/a" }ftovaa/s" deep

s/q" rabbelTe" deep

-Ut4l7ru Ss/a'

draw latch #4 x s/e" F.H.wood screw

, - {11- . . , , , END v lEWi''l-lll t'/8

il) 4\,/""1So"

I END VIEW

ffi;1,/a',;!;;),=v,# 1 0 x 1 "

R . H .woodSCTEW

\ F!-

\578"

Notch fi ledIn cam

I rocr rNsrALLATtoN3/q" grooves/a" deep

1/a"231/4" carriage bolt1t/q" long

1/q" hole

4" caster with brake

4" casterwith brake

t/q" flat washer

t/a" lock nut

2" .cont inuous h inge

p cnsruR PLAcEMENT(Viewed from the bottom)

4" casters

TOP VIEW

#6 x 7e" F.H.wood screw

ri'#6Ill % groove

lL"W'L\

TOP VIEW

101/2'

* Note:Locationto wire pul land lockcam screws

55/a'

f,ll cnrvr DETATL =

(Viewed from top) 7%+" pi lot holet/2" deepDisc tumbler

cam lock# 1 0 x 1 " R . H .wood screw

Left doorside

----@-;/4'

frorit s/+" hole

lnstall the locks and handles

1 O" the front of each door, mark the centerpoint for a3/+" hole toI receive a disc tumbler cam lock, where dimensioned on Draw-

ings 1 and 5. (Note that the two lock instal lat ions are mirror imagesof one another.)

lUsing a 3/+" Forstner bit, and a backer board to prevent3tear-out, drill the lock holes through the doors. Remove thescrew attaching the cam to the back of each lock, and then removethe cam. Instal l the locks in the holes as directed in the manufac-turer's instructions. File a notch in each cam where dimensioned onDrawing 5a. Then, screw the cams to the locks.

2 On the back of the center cabinet's front side (H), mark the

Jcenterpoints for #10x1" roundhead wood screws that engagewith the locks' cams, where dimensioned on Drawings 2 and 5. Dri l l7/a+" pllot holes r/2" deep at the centerpoints. Then, drive in the #10x1"roundhead wood screws to the depth shown.

AO" the front of the doors and center cabinet, mark the screw-tfhole locations for attaching the wire pulls, where shown onDrawings 1 and 2. Drill %0" holes at the marked locations, and mountthe pul ls using the supplied screws.

Center cabinet

4" casterwith brake

c/4" carriage bolt1tl+" long with

/4" washer andt/+" lock nut

woodmagazine.com

4" casters with brake

8 7

rr

' :i i

Lockabledrawlatch

@

NoW to mount your tools and organize hardware in thecabinet, see the iidebut, at right, foi ideas. I

Each locking hook has a dual-purpose pin that you push in tolock the hook in p lace andunscrew to remove it.

The support strip, which mountsto the cabinet back with #8x3/8"panhead screws, keeps thebins from sl iding around whenmoving the cabinet.

Written by Owen DuvallProject design: Burdette Heikens,

Carefree, Arizona, with feff Mertzl l lustrat ions: Lorna f ohnson

sides yt 6"60"

B toos and bottoms 3/l' 6'231/i' BB

C shelves t/z' 5t/2" 23Vt' BB

D backs t/z' 23Yi 59Yi' BB

E vertical spacers 7/' 172" 45" BB 6

F horizontal sDacers 1/zu 1Vz' 22Vz' BB 4

I bottom andcenter shelf 3/q' 12" 23yi' BB

J top 1/q' 12' 23yi' BB

K divider 3/l' 23yi' 2gyi' BB

L upper shelves 3/i' 10Yi 221/s' BB

M lower shelves 3/i, 41/a' 221/s' BB 4

N edqinq 3/i' 11/a' 22Vi' BB 12

3/+x60 x 60" Baltic birch plywood

88

Materials hey: BB-Baltic birchplywood, PH-perforated hardboa rd,

Supp I ies : #18x3/c" br ads; # 4xs/e",#5x5ls", and #8x1" flathead woodscrews; %" carriage bolts 11/c" long(24); 1/4' flatwashers (24); %" locknuts (24);4" casters with brake(4);4" casters without brakes (2);steelshelf standards 30" long (12);stee I s he lf su p ports (24); 2x7 2"continuous hinges (2); disc tumblercam locks (2); #10x1" roundheadwood screws (2);33/+" (96mm)wirepulls with #8-32x1" machine screws(3); lockable draw latches (2)with#6x7s" flathead wood screws.

Blades and bits:1/q" andl/2"straight router bits,3/" Forstner bit.

60"

@ onnw LATCH rNsrALLATroN

Front

(Ctamp the doors snug against the center cabinet at therffront. Engage the lockable draw latches in the matingclips, and position the pieces on top of the tool cabinet, whereshown on Drawing 6. While holding a latch and clip againstthe cabinet, carefully release the latch lever, and mark themounting-screw hole locations in each piece. Repeat for theother latch. Then, drill 7o+" pilot holes 7e" deep at the markedspots, and screw the pieces to the top.

' i l#6 xs/e"

F.H. woodscrewi r r \\ i I

Tool-hanging and storage-bin options

I llooks. To ensure that yourtools' hooks stay securely inplace on the perforatedhardboard, use locking-typenylon hooks for rock-solidattachment, as shown at right.The hooks come in a varietyof shapes, so you can mountvirtually any tool or accessory.We used Talon perfboard hooksfor our project, avai lable fromMcFeely's. Cal | 800-443 -7937,

or go to mcfeelys.com.

I Storage Bins. To keep bulkhardware i tems organized,identi f ied, and easi ly accessible,it's hard to beat storage bins.We placed bins, also avai lablefrom McFeely's (Web addressand telephone above), on thelower shelves of the doors, asshown in the photo on page 84.The bins hook onto a supportstrip, as shown at right. Packsof six bins, no. BINS-6000R(red), BINS-6000Y (yel low), orBINS-6000G (green), includethe support str ip.

Materials List

t Z x 3 0 x 6 0 "Baltic birch plywood

1/q x 48 x 48" Perforated hardboard

1/zx 60 x 60" Baltic birch plywood g/q x 6O x 60" Baltic birch plywood

Best-Ever Home Shop ldeas 2OO9

fiom the editors of W00lTragazine rywilmti!frffififfi

Benchtop Router TablePlan DP-00151 $7.95

Roll-Around Tool BasePlan DP-00061 $6.95

Five Great Glamp0rganizers

Plan DP-00230 $6.95

UniversalWall CabinetPlan DP-00140 $8.95

Go-Anywhere ToolGaddyPlan DP-00426 $6.95

Rolling Workshop StoragePlan DP-00488a $2.95

Basic Workbench and6 Ways to Beef it UpPlan DP-00456 $7.95

Space-Saving Work GenterPlan DP-00168 $6.95

Shop Cail/WorkbenchPlan DP-00592a $4.95

Flip-Top Work CenterPlan DP-00239 $5.95

Simple'N'SturdyTool Stand

Plan DP-00577 $4.95

Get'r-Done Shop GartPlan DP-00486a $4.95

Mobile Mitersaw GenterPlan DP-00098 $7.95

Mobile Sawing& Routing Genter

Plan DP-00271 $8.95

Lumber Storage RackPlan DP-00135 $7.95

Full-Service WorkbenchPlan, Part 1, DP-00058 $8.95

Full-Seruice WorkbenchLift-Up Router & ToolTable

Plan, Paft 2, DP-00059 $8.95

Cyclone Dust GollectorPlan DP-00068 $10.95

Download any of these woodworking plans for the prices listed, or view a larger image, at wmdmagazine.COm/plansTo have paper plans mailed directly to you (add $3 per plan S+H), cail toll-free l -888-636-4478.

Please have your credit card available.BEHSI09

0rbital-SanderRestCustomize the basicdesign to supportyour sander.

or Chuck Hedlund, WOODomagazine's Master Craftsman,time is always of the essence.

Even the precious few seconds hewastes holding a 5" random-orbitalsander until its pad quits spinningadd up. And even if you're not in arush, isn't it a pain waiting for thatpad to stop twirling around?

To remedy this situation, Chuckdesigned and built this benchtopsander rest. After turning off hissander, he immediately places it inthe rest. After muchtesting in the WOODmagazine shop, Chuckchamfered the bottomedge of the hole in the topto trap the sander in theopening. Then, he addedan upright to catch thesander's dust port andkeep the sander fromspinning. For sanderswith a vacuum attach-ment (see smaller photo),add the optional support.This holds up the vacuumhose while keeping thesander from tipping over.Use the L" hole in thebase to hang the restwhen not in rie. ai

Project design: Chuck Hedlundlllustration : Roxanne LeMolne

90

The optionalsupportatrightworks wellfor

the vacuum hose torest on, preventing

the sander fromtipping over.

t/z" solid stock

I

Height sutficient to J-support vacuum hose

7/u" pilot hole t/2" deep

s/sz" shank hole

s/sz" shank hole,countersunk

on bottom faoe

lc" chamter alongbottom edge

OPTIONAL SUPPORT (For vacuum-hose models)

Diameter of hole centered,th" larger than the diameter

of the sander base

Note: Allstock t/2" plywood(except support)

UPR!GHT

10"

3"

\

I nt x 1/2" F.H. wood screwfr--

Best-Ever llome Shop ldeas 2009

Easy-Does-lt

Sheet GoodsMover/LifterF.* shop chores rival the awkward-I ness of moving large sheet goodsI by yourself. And it's nigh impossi-ble to get them up onto sawhorseswithout help (or the horses skitteringacross the floor). You'll never again haveto cafole reluctant family members intohelping if you use this system, designedby WOOD@ magazine readerJim Forney.

Build the dolly from 3/+" plywood ormedium-density fiberboard (MDF), andsolid stock, as shown in the drawings atright. Carefully position the casters sothey run parallel to one another-otherwise, the dolly can shimmy like abad shopping cart.

Each sheet l i f ter consists of a pair ofhinged 2x4s. One at taches temporar-i ly to the top of your sawhorse; theother guides the stock from vertical tohor izontal .

To work the system, slide the angle-iron of the dolly under the edge of thesheet you want to move. (It works best ifyou store your sheet goods standing ontheir long edge, raised up on 2x stick-ers.) Grab the top of the sheet, and tip ittoward you. This lifts the material offthe stickers, and shifts its weight to thedolly. Now, wheel the sheet to your workarea, steering it by tilting and pivotingthe dolly on one caster.

To lay the sheet on sawhorses, roll itinto position over the angle iron of thelifters, and tip the sheet toward the saw-horses to free the dolly. (The sheet shouldbe resting only on the lifters.) Pull thedolly awaft and set it aside. Finally, raisethe material by tilting the top toward thesawhorses-the lifters will drop down tothe floor once the weight of the sheet hastransl'erred to the hories. ll

Project design: f im Forneyl l lustrat ion: Roxanne LeMoine

woodmagazine.com

7ez" shank hole,countersunk on back

1 1 / 2 x 2 1 / 2 x 2 4 " 112',

I

l"J

#8 x 1 t /q ' F .H .wood screw

z%+" pilot hole1t/q" deep

1t/z x 24"non-sl ip tape

1t/2" rabbeit/a" deep

''akt

\countersunk1/a" F.H. machine screw1 " l o n g

31/2" neavy-duty hinge

2x4 ,1 " l onge r t hanight of sawhorse

#B x 11 /q " F .H lwood screw

1 / e X 1 1 / 2 X 1 1 / 2 "

angle iron31/2" long

7 ,/-,,/, x i./,,,:@*^::;s'iotaoe

1/q" hole, machine screwcountersunk 17+" lono

x 11/z x 11/2"angle iron24" long

2x4,6" longer thansawhorse base

1t/2" dado t/a" deep

-:

{

hen you have a hardworkingand organized shop, routinerepairs and special proiects

becorne a pleasure, not a chore.The first step toward equipping a shop:

Designate an area that you can cal l yourown. It doesn't need to be a huge space,but it should be comfortable, well-lighted,and have adeqr.rate electrical service.Individual art icles within this rnagazinegive you the details on how to create aworkspace that's inviting and efficient.You' l l also f ind valuable advice on choos-ing individual tools.

Next, set up a workbench. Make sureit 's sturdy and free of clutter. I f the bench-top is pi led high with tools and supplics,i t 's only act ing as a shelf, not a bench.Clear the deck, and keep i t clcan.

Add a vise or two, and yor,r ' l l ntakelnany of your projects consic' leralt lv eas-ier by el irninating the effort of rnanuallyirnnrobi l izing a workpiecc. Work orryour bench, but not itrto it. Stray holesin your workbench, as well as spi l ledpaint and oi l , quickly downgrade yourshop's appearance. Protect or renew yourbenchtop with a replaceable layer ofplywood or hardboard.

92

An eff icient home shop has plcnty ofstorage area for tools and supplies, withthe most-needed iterns always at arrn'sreach. I f you f ind that you're continu-al ly walking across your shop for aniter-n, relocate i t closer toyour workbench or otherarea where i t 's used.

You' l l need a variety ofs torage opt ions: s turdyshelves for ' tools and bulksupplies, drawers for preci-sion tools, bins or snap-topcontainers for fasteners andsrnal l tools, hanging storagefor everyday tools, and out-of-the-way storage for itemsyou need only occasional ly.

But even the best storageproducts won't do you anygood unless you're rnethodi-cal about putting away toolsand supplies.

Mention "tools," and tnostpeople i rnrnedia te ly th ink

of power tools-the type that lequiresan electr ic cord. But every well-equippedshop also has plenty of hand tools. Thesebasic implements include wrenches,saws, f i les, chisels, str iking tools, andrneasuring and rnarking tools.

Whether you bu i ld i t yourse l f or buy and assemble,a sturdy workbench is one of the top necessit ies forset t ing up your home shop.


Invest in high-quali ty hand tools, and theywil l last a l i fet ime. You' l l use them on manyprojects as well as for machinery adjustments.

As you begin to build your tool collec-tion, beware of bargain bins. These toolsoften provide attractive price tags butlittle in the way of quality. In fact, youmay discover that poorly designed orpoorly made (or both) tools will frus-trate your best efforts. High-qualityproducts usually aren't cheap, but hav-ing good tools removes a significantbarrier in your quest to produce first-rate results.

Several brands of hand tools offerlifetime guarantees, such as Craftsman(Sears), Husky (The Home Depot), andKobalt (Lowe's). The initial investmentmay be higher than brands that don'toffer liberal replacement policies, butan active do-it-yourselfer will enjoy the

Precision layout tools enable you to workaccurately, so don't shortchange your resultsby buying cheap rules and squares.

benefit of never struggling with a dam-aged tool. The warranty covers a widespectrum of hand tools, such as pliers,wrenches and screwdrivers, but excludespower tools.

Don't spend morethan ydu have toRetailers often provide generous dis-counts on lawn and garden gear in thespring, and even more dramatic mark-downs at the end of the summer. whenthe equipment will otherwise be returnedto the warehouse. Other outdoor toolsfollow similar cycles: for example,you'll usually get the best deal on asnowblower when the weather begins towarm. The stores will also have sales dur-

A router is a versatile addition to your shopthat can cut cabinet joinery as well as shapedecorative edges on a wide range of products.

ing the year when you'll enioy substan-tial discounts-even 50 percent off-onselected hand or power tools. You canbuild or upgrade your tool collectionmore quickly when you watch for thesedeep discounts.

Closeouts and reconditioned items areother money-saving opportunities, andthese tools often carry full warrantyprotection. Stores with rental operationsoften offer low prices on used tools thatare top-quality and professional grade.In this case, though, you'll probably buythe tool "as is," without any warranty. Itmay work for 10 minutes or L0 years, butit's yours either way.

Another opportunity is the "brown-bag sale" that retailers sometimes

Unless you've recently won a lottery ora big poker tournament, you probablyaren't going to buy a shop full of toolson a single visit to the home center.The following categories represent astarting l ist of basic shop tools to tacklea wide range of home repair andimprovement projects. They don'tinclude all the tools required of tradessuch as painting, drywall, electrical, andso on.

Primary shop16-ounce claw hammer, a pair of 12"one-handed bar c lamps, a 10" pair oflocking-grip pliers, 6" and 10" adjustablewrenches, sawhorses, battery-powereddril l-driver, a set of dri l l bits, shop fireextinguisher, safety glasses, hearingprotection, respirator, drive-bit set(which can also be used with a magnetic-tip screwdriver), flexible and stiff 1/+"

woodmagazine.com

putty knives, a set of wood chisels, chalkline, l ine level, ball of nylon mason's l ine,uti l i ty knife and spare blades, slip-jointpliers, tape measure, torpedo and 2' levels,combination square, framing square, caulkgun, handsaw, sandpaper in a variety ofgrits, small pry bar, 6'stepladder, compass,variety of tapes (masking, duct, electrical),nail sets, scratch awl.

Secondary shopCorded electric dri l l , set of spade-type dril lbits, 25' extension cord (14-gauge isadequate; 12-gauge preferred), tool belt,hacksaw with spare blades, plumb bob,bevel gauge, coping saw, circular saw,jigsaw, set of Allen wrenches (hex keys),socket-wrench set in both SAE and metricsizes, mitersaw, sander, sharpening stonesand honing guide, block plane, crowbar,strap wrench, tongue-and-groove pliers(Channel lock is one brand), stapler,

3-pound dr i l l ing hammer, 8-poundsledgehammer, wood rasps, grinder,dead-blow mallet, 4' level, needle-nosepliers, wire stripper and cutter, centerpunch, neon electrical tester, electricalcontinuity tester, cat's-paw nail puller,pipe wrenches.

Advanced shopShop vacuum, construction calculator,laser level, dial calipers, micrometer, full-face shield, precision screwdriver set,router, high-speed rotary tool (RotoZiptype), reciprocating saw, propane torch,air compressor and pneumatic tools,tablesaw, welding rig, tap-and-die set,bandsaw, soldering iron, cold chisels, dri l lpress, tin snips, electrical multimeter (ACand DC volts, ammeter, ohms), heat gun,metal-cutting chop saw, impact driver,central dust collector, overhead air-filtration system.

93

A 2' level, along with a torpedo level, is part ofyour basic tool kit. A 4-footer provides evenbetter accuracy for big projects.

conduct, offering a percentage discounton all the items you can stuff into abrown paper (grocery) bag. This can be agood way to save on some hand tools,such as measuring and marking equip-ment, that are often not discounted.

Make a list, andcheck it twiceThe sidebar on page 93 lists primary,secondary, and advanced homeownertools can serve as a general guideline toprioritize your wish lists. But bear inmind, however, that building a work-shop is a long-term proiect, not a one-

Stoclcplle suppliesWhen you get into yourproiects around the home,you'll save time and tripsto the hardware store bystockpiling nonperishablesupplies such as wire nuts,sandpaper, fasteners, andother products. But becautious about buyinggiant bottles of glue andother products that havelimited shelf lives.

It's also wise to keepvolatile liquids (fuels andsolvents, for example) inlimited quantities. When-ever possible, store com-bustible liquids in a shedor garage that's detachedfrom your home.

Of course, having sup-plies on hand is only partof the challenge-finding

them when needed is the real key.Organize your fasteners in neatlylabeled standardized transparent con-tainers. (See page 105 for one option.)

Maintaln your toolsWhen you spend your hard-earnedmoney for tools, you'll be motivatedto take care of them. Scrape soil offgardening tools before storage (seemore details in the sidebar at right),and buy canvas tool rolls so that yourwoodworking chisels don't bang eachother on the cutting edges.

Learn how to sharpen basic edges,such as plane irons and chisels, orsend your tools to a sharpening serviceto keep them in prime condition. ll

Equipment articles written by Robert f . Settlch

Protect YourTool InvestmentBuying new tools for your shop can be anenjoyable experience. But replacing stolenor neglected equipment can be bothpainful and expensive. With a bit of care,though, you can minimize your risk.

For starters, conduct an inventory ofyour shop. This will be helpful if you everneed to fi le an insurance claim becauseyour. tools were stolen or sucked up into atornado's funnel cloud. Record the tools'makes, models, serial numbers, dates ofacquisit ion, and purchase prices. Shootingphotos or video is a quick way to proveownership of small tools that would betoo tedious to list individually. Store theinventory in your safe-deposit box or atanother off-site location.

Next, contact your insurance agent todiscuss whether items of substantial valueshould be specifically mentioned in yourcoverage. You'll also want to find outwhether your policy provides full re-placement value or would pay only on adepreciated basis. Coverage at thedepreciated amount is less expensive, butit may also provide only a smallfraction ofthe tab for retooling your shop. Thedifference would come out of your pocket.Ask for a quote on switching to fullreplacement coverage, and you may findthat it's quite affordable compared withbearing the risk yourself.

It's also a good idea to keep valuabletools under lock and key. Make sure thatyour shop has a sturdy door with dead-bolt, and even lock tools up again in awall cabinet or mobile storage unit. (See"Ready, Set, Roll" on page 106.)

Security is a special issue if your shop isin an attached garage. Professionalburglars often approach targets virtuallyempty-handed, relying on a quick kick toa weak door to get into the garage. Fromthere, they often use the homeowner'sown tools to gain entry to the house.

Keep your toolr clean and dryTheft is a quick way of losing tools. Rustand corrosion work more slowly, but canniake your tools just as useless. Scrapeloose soil from garden tools to keep rustand corrosion at bay. For off-seasonstorage, blast the tools clean with a gardenhose, air-dry, and then give each one aspritz of oil. lf you have a tablesaw orother equipment with cast-iron tops;protect them with coats of automotivepaste wax. Catalogs for wood- andmetalworkers also offer sprays and wipe-on finishes that banish rust and corrgsionfrom small tools. (Boeshield T-9 is oneproduct.) You can also invest indehumidification blocks that keep the airdry inside a tool box.

time event.It's easy to get carried away

when buying tools, so set abudget to keep things undercontrol. That way, you canadd to your shop every monthwithout undue strain on thefinances. In general, you'llbuy power tools as yourprojects iustify them, butyou'll probably be pleasantlysurprised how quickly theypay for themselves whencompared with the feescharged by a contractor. Forexample, the installationprice that you'd pay for anentry door will go a long waytoward buying the mitersawyou'll need for the trimwork.

94

Buying a tablesaw is your passport to the world ofprecision woodworking. You'll build great projectsfor inside your home and outdoors.


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A c i rcu lar saw a l lows you to takeser io t rs cut t ing power to the iob, anc lthere arc p lentv o f tasks i t can hanc l lc :crosscr,rt t ing sttrds for a roonr aclcl i t ior-r,cut t ing deck boarc ls to length, notch ingtirnbers for a backyard play set, cutt ing4x8 ' sheet goods to s izc , and ntuchmore. Ins ta l l an abras ive lnasonrywheel, and you can score concreteblocks or paving stones for your patio(You ' l l need a co ld ch ise l to f in ish the

iob. ) Subst i tu te a rneta l -cut t ing wheel ,and you ' l l power through condui t .

woodmagazine.com

You' l l f ind a wide range of choiceswithin the circular-saw category, butn-rost of the tools f i t into two basicclesigns: the sidewinder and t l-re \ /onn

clr ive. Each saw style defines i tself bythe posit ion of the rnotor relat ive tothe b lade.

l -he worrn-c l r ive des ign p laces thelong ax is o f the lnotor para l le l tothe saw b lade, as shown at r i ,g l r t .The rnotor t ransfcrs the power to theb lade t l - r ro t rgh a ser ics o f p i r - r ionsand gears. A worm-gear assernbly thatg ives the des ign i ts name turns therotary rnotion 90" at the saw arbor.

A corded c i rcu lar saw, such as th is Sk i lsawmodel above, provides steady power foreven your most ambit ious constructionprojects. The Ski l 77 worm drive hasexceptional power and a narrow profi le.

' l 'his setup gives the saw a narrow pro-

f i le side to sidc, but stretches the bodyof the worrn-drive saw, adding reachthat 's often handy on long sar,v cuts.However, the real benefi t of the worm-drive design is exceptional torque (rota-t iona l power) . That rneans you wi l l

95

as withs sounclLt blade,rde, but

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rarely find a situation where you'll bogdown the blade. On the negative side,the gearing and powerful motortranslate to additional weight.

With a sidewinder saq youmount the blade directly to themotor's shaft. With some saws, theblade is on the right (iudged fromyour operating position), but othersplace it on the left. Some manufac-turers produce both models: blade-left and blade-right. In theory, a right-hander should find a blade-left sawmore convenient because you don'tneed to look over the saw to see theblade. But if you're a righty alreadyaccustomed to ablade-right saw, switch-ing to a blade-left can be a disorientingexperience.

With a little practice, you can followa line freehand to make cuts straightenough for most proiects. For moreaccuracy, use a purchased or shop-madeclamp-on straightedge guide with yourcircular saw.

Enter a recilr saw intothe demolit ion derbyIf you do occasional home repairs, youprobably own a tool belt. If you're aserious remodeler, you'll definitelyown a reciprocating saw. Fans of thistool nickname it the recip saw, andafter the first time you use one, you'llbe a fan, too. With a recip saw, manyoperators actually look forward to thedemolition phase of each proiectinstead of dreading it.

The saw gets its name from the back-and-forth action of the blade. You restthe foot plate of the saw on the pieceyou're cutting, and squeeze a variable-speed trigger with one hand whileyour other hand steadies the body ofthe saw. It's a tool built for speed andpower, not pretty cuts.

Cutting through old decking, lum-ber, and plywood is no problem, evenif it's riddled with nails and screws.Need to slice through rebar or oldpipes? No sweat-simply pop in ametal-cutting blade. The recip sawwith a coarse blade lets you cut updowned tree limbs with nearly thespeed of a chain saw, but with a lot lessnoise and zero fumes.

Most corded recip saws have plentyof power to cut big iobs down to size.But if you're willing to sacrifice powerfor the advantage of going cordless,you'll find battery-powered saws thatwon't tether you to electrical outlets.

96

Next to a friendly banker with a low interest rate,a reciprocating saw is the remodeler's best friend.

This model uses an 18V rechargeable battery.

f igsaw: Cutting cornersaccuratelyWhile a reciprocating saw moves a bladeforward and back, a jigsaw moves it upand down. And unlike a recip saq aiigsaw is capable of accurate and intri-cate cuts. You can craft holiday yarddecorations from plywood, cut througha laminate countertop to install a sink,or shape smooth curves in decorativedeck brackets.

Choose the right metal-cutting blade,and you'll zip through sheet metal,steel, and copper pipe. With a fine ply-wood blade, you'll negotiate hairpinturns in 1/+" stock. With a medium- tocoarse-wood blade, you'll sculpt smoothcurves in outdoor projects such as %"-thick fence pickets or |Yz"-thick cedar orredwood beams.

You'll find that most iigsaws offervariable-speed control, where your fin-ger pressure on the switch has the sameeffect as your foot on your car's accelera-tor pedal. Many saws also allow you tocontrol the orbiting action of the saw-a motion that powers the blade forwardand back while it's also traveling up anddown. The greater the orbit, the more

A jigsaw cuts smooth curves in a widerange of materials, from thin plywood todimensional lumber.

aggressive the cut, which also means arougher-cut edge. Dial down the orbitalaction, and you'll get improved controland a smoother (but slower) cut.

When shopping for a jigsaw, you'llnotice that most have horizontal gripsthat parallel the motor housing. Othersmay have you grabbing the housingitself, a position that could uncomfort-ably warm your hand during anextended cutting session. Check howthe saw fits your hand, and whether thegrip is comfortable or seems strainedwhen you pull the trigger.

Tablesaw: First choice forstraight cuttingWith the saws we've discussed so far,the lumber is stationary and you movethe tool to make the cut. A tablesawreverses the dynamics: It sits still whileyou advance the material past the blade.When you're working on pieces smallerthan full sheet goods, you'll find thatthis makes it easy to achieve accurateresults. In addition, the blade-tilt fea-ture enables you to cut bevels with oracross the grain. The miter gauge andrip fence make it easy to crank out astack of identical parts within minutes.If you'll cut only a few long boards, youmay need to recruit a helper to assistyou in balancing the lumber. But anoutfeed stand is an inexpensive alter-native that doesn't get impatient.

Even with a helper and an outfeedstand or two, you'll find that manhan-dling a full sheet of plywood over atablesaw can quickly turn into a wres-tling match. Whenever possible, usea circular saw to break the sheetinto manageable pieces before goingto the tablesaw. How big a piece fitsthe definition of "manageable" dependssomewhat on you and the size ofyour saw


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A tablesaw can easily trump the accuracyof allthe other hand-guided saws in yourarsenal of power tools.

The smallest-and therefore mostportable-tablesaws are often labeledas benchtop tools, though many haveoptional legs set to improve their versa-tility. Low price is the prime motivatorbehind these saw designs, so you'lltypically find a stamped-steel tabletop,and a universal motor that directlydrives the blade. Follow the setupinstructions carefully, and you'll getdecent results from this type of saw,but don't expect glass-smooth cuts orextreme precision.

The next step up is a jobsite saw,which usually includes a folding standthat doubles as a dolly for easy portabil-ity. You'll see a significant boost in theprice tag, but you'll receive substantialupgrades in the quality of materials as

- well as improved precision and power.The next level is called a contractor-

style saw, but you'll see far more ofthese in home workshops than on con-struction sites. The contractor-style sawhas a cast-iron top that's machined flat,and an induction motor rated about1.5 horsepower. A V-belt connects themotor to the saw's arbor. This categoryrepresents such a large share of thetablesaw market that there's an abun-dance of aftermarket accessories. Soyou can bolt on upgrades for accuracyand convenience. For example, you'llfind beefed-up rip fences, superaccuratemiter gauges, and a host of jigs. A care-fully tuned saw is typically more thancapable of furniture-quality cuts.

Take one more step upward, andyou're looking a at cabinet-style saw, atrue industrial machine with a 3-(or

woodmagazlne.com

more) horsepower, ZZo-volt motor. It'sall about cast iron, with heavy-dutyeverything, including the price tag.

Bandsaw: Cuts curvesand thiclc stock easilyAdd a bandsaw to your shop, and you'llopen new possibilities that are difficultto achieve with any other tool. You canmake straight or curved cuts in thickwood with accuracy. Compound cuts-where you slice through two adiacentfaces of the stock-are not merely pos-sible but downright fun to do.

This tool also excels at resawing lum-ber, which means slicing it on-edge.This allows you to open up a piece ofwood to create a book-matched panelfor a stunning cabinet door. Evenbenchtop bandsaws offer decent resaw-ing capability, and a mid-priced sawwith a riser block can resaw through 12"slabs of hardwood.

A bandsaw is simple enough forthebeginner but capable enough for theadvanced woodworker.

The defining dimension of bandsawcapacity is the distance from the bladeto the column. Some benchtop unitsutilize a third wheel to improve thecapacity of the saw without trpscalingthe major components. However, mostsaws feature a two-wheel design.

Although the vast majority of band-saws are intended for cutting wood, youcan also purchase models that cut metal.In this case, though, the pulleys aresized to slow down the cutting speed toa rate that's more appropriate for metal-

A scrollsaw handles a wide range ofprecision and creative cutting tasks inwood and metal.

Scrollsaw: the one-toolhabit-forming hobbyScrollsaws should have some sort ofwarning label attached, because usingone can definitely become an addictiveexperience. Some users start out in-nocently enough, crafting nameplatesand simple plaques. But then, they findthemselves hooked on complex designsand other advanced techniques.

Most scrollsaws have variable-speedcontrols that allow you to tailor thecutting approach to the material you'recrafting, whether it's wood or metal.Equipped with the appropriate ieweler'sblade, the scrollsaw can craft exquisitedetail in a variety of metals.

The up-and-down motion of a scroll-saw reminds some woodworkers of asewing machine.

One key tlp: change to a new scrollsawblade whenever you notice the cuttingaction slowing. A new blade helps youfinish sooner, and increases the life of thesaw by reducing strain on the motor. i'

SourcesBosch : 87 7 267 2499, boschtools.comCraftsman : 800-549-4505, craft sman.comDeWalt : 800-433-9258, dewalt.comHltachl : 800-829-47 52, hitachi.com/powertoolsf et : 800-274-6848, jettools.comM I f wau kee z 262-7 81 -3600, mi lwau keetool.comSkll z 877 -7 54-5999, ski l.com

9 7

cutting blades.

Success WithMitersaws & AccessoriesWhetheryou need to chop a4x4deck post orslice a delicate molding for a jewelry box, amitersaw is the tool of choice. To get the mostfrom this tool, though, think about the scale ofworkand the materialyou're cutting. Theseconsiderations will help you choose both thesaw and the blades forthe job. lf installingmolding is your first goal, you'll need a way tomeasure and cut miterangles, too.

98

I I ost mitersaws on the mar-I!1fI ket today are the com-I U I pound style, which meansthe blade can bevel and miter simul-taneously. This enables you to cutcrown molding flat on the saw'sdeck. Most compound mitersawsbevel in only one direction, but afew can bevel both ways-a featurethat's occasionally handy but notnecessary for most DIY iobs.

In today's market, saws haveeither a 10" or L2" blade, thoughyou'll find a few saws that use smalleror larger blades. A larger blade

diameter, of course, translates intogreater cutting capacity. A slidingmechanism is another way to boostthe tool's effective cutting range. Sawmanufacturers generally list the maxi-mum thickness and width of cut attwo positions: the zero-degree cross'-cut and at a 45" miter.

Make sure that the saw you choosewill handle the largest stock youneed to cut. There's always theinitial burning temptation to buythe biggest saw in the store, butlooking at the price tag often coolsthat passion.


*

Chose your bladeMatching the blade to the iob is a criti-cal part of cutting success. For deckingand other'framing chores, a 10" bladewith 24 carbide teeth will produce fastcuts and eject chips efficiently. Forsmooth cuts in moldings, choose aquality blade with 60 or more carbideteeth. If you'll cut plastic molding,you'll need to search out a companythat makes specialty blades which mini-mize melting. (Forrest Manufacturing isone source.)

Working all the anglesOne of the key steps toward virtuallyseamless molding joints is knowing theprecise angle you need to cut. You'llget the best results by using a protrac-tor with legs long enough to span thehumps typical of outside drywall cor-ners. An 18" plastic protractor fromQuint Industries is an affordable andaccurate tool. If you don't mind parting

with more money, you'll finddigital protractors that will

calculate the bevel andmiter angles for you, as

t ,L\. shown below.

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A digitalangle qT-

finder eliminates '\ €guesswork \when you're installing crown molding.

Capture the crownWrapping a room with crown moldingmotivates many people to purchase acompound mitersaw, but the instruc-tions included with the saw often fallshort of even basic training. For morehelp, consult a book such as CrownMolding and TTim: InstaII It Like a Profrom Quint Industries. The book isavailable at many home centers, or youcan order online (compoundmiter.com).For a handy video of cutting molding,see woodmagazine.corn/rnold ingvideo.

It's time to take a standA mitersaw can be extremely handy inthe shop, but making the tool easilyportable multiplies its usefulness. Thatway, yori can take it to the backyard to

woodmagazine.com

When choosing a stand, look for stabilityas well as the ability to support longworkpieces. This dolly-type stand fromHitachi lets you transport the saw and itssupport system in a single trip.

install a new deck rail or near the livingroom to install crown molding, a chairrail, or both.

You can put the saw onto a piece ofplywood between sawhorses, or set up aportable workstation such as Black &Decker's Workmate. If you choose eitherof these alternatives, it's a great idea toclamp the saw firmly to the stand so itwon't slide when you're making the cut.

For real convenience, though, take alook at a dedicated mitersaw stand.(Some can even double as a platform fora planer or other tool.) You'llfind a vari-ety of designs among manufacturers.There are two categories: a stand thattravels independently of the saw and astand with wheels (above), serving asa dolly to transport itself and thesaw at the same time.The independent stand is the more

plentiful and generally the lower-pricedof the two types. On the downside,though, you'll always make at least twotrips with this variety: one for thestand and another for the saw.

The dolly-type stand is a sweetheartbecause it cuts your commute in half,and it also eliminates the strain of carry-ing the saw. Typically, the stand evenincludes a gas-charged cylinder thathelps you overcome gravity duringsetup. If you'll move the saw up anddown stairs, look for large-diameterwheels. If you'll travel over soft ground,wide wheels will keep you on a roll.Some stands require the saw to be boltedon, while others have a quick-releasemechanism. Detaching the tool is a plusif you need to load the stand and sawinto a truck. Most dolly stands store onend, reducing their footprint.

Both types of stands usually incorpo-rate outrigger work supports that help

hold long pieces of lumber or molding.Typically, you use a built-in screw clampto match the support's height to thesaw's deck. Some supports even includea provision for a stopblock setup, a realplus when you need to cut a batch ofparts to identicat length. lF

lf metalworking is a part of your shopactivities, you'll appreciate a big-capacity chop saw. Despite their size,these saws are surprisingly affordableand can cut a wide variety of ferrousand nonferrous materials. By usinga special carbide blade, the modelpictured below can cut significantlyfaster than either a mitersaw with anabrasive wheel or a portable bandsaw.The blade produces virtually burr-freecuts, reducing the need for grinding.A quick-acting vise holds the materialfirmly, and a 45" fence positions stock

There's plentyto like in a metal-cutting saw:huge capacity,high power, anduncomplicatedoperation.

SourcesBosch : 87 7 -267 2499, boschtoo ls.comCraftsman : 800-549-4505; craftsma n.comDeWalt : 800-433-9258, dewalt.comForrest: 800-733-71 1 1, forrestblades.comHitachi : 800-829-4752, hitachi.comQuint Industrles: 866-544-2016, compoundmiter.com

for accurate andrepeatable results. *

99

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E,,a

r , ou have three potential power sources for a drill: battery pack, electrical cord,:,:r:'

and compressed air. Batteries give your drill the most portability, an advantage:;r' that's important when your potential household work sites range from the roof

to a cramped crawl space. Dragging along a cord adds a degree of difficulty to many ofthese iobs, and it seems that the plug always pops loose just when you're ready to pullthe trigger.

But corded drills definitely have their advantages. When you're faced with heavy-dutytasks-drilling large-diameter holes in wood, for example, or simply boring a lot ofholes-you'll benefit frorn the dependable power that flows through the cord. You canwork all day without the bother of swapping power packs or waiting fbr a recharge.

If your shop has a compressor rated at rnore than 4 SCFM, consider a pneumatic (air-powered) drill. It's not a good choice as your only drill, of course, because you're tetheredby an air hose. But the simple no-motor construction of an air tool gives it light weight,excellent dependability, and low maintenance. Many pneumatic drills lack the refine-tnents of corded and battery drill-drivers: no clutch settings and no variable speeds. Someunits even lack reversing features. (For more about air tools, see prl.ge 108.)

1 0 0

An angle dr i l l per forms wel l in t ightspaces. A corded version lets youquick ly dr i l l ho les through s tuds torun wi r ing or p lumbing.


Il

Cordless dril l-driversBattery power gives your drill-driver ahighly portable and dependable powersource. No wonder it's one of the mostpopular of home-shop tools.

A drill-driver with a power source of10.8 to 14.4 volts is usually plenty forroutine drilling of pilot holes and driv-ing screws. But if you need additionalpower for more demanding tasks, suchas spinning spade bits, look for morevoltage. However, the high-voltage bat-teries also impose substantial penaltiesin both price and weight.

When you're shopping for a drill, don'tmerely look at price tags. Instead, checkthe tool's balance (with the battery inplace, of course). Also, learn whether youcan easily reach and operate all of theswitches-such as the reversing con-trol-without straining or fumbling.

To understand more about batteriesand chargers-including the newlithium-ion technology-

The dril l pressThe operational principle of a drill pressis extremely simple: The tool that borestruly vertical holes to a precise depth-something that's difficult to do with ahandheld drill. For precision work inboth metal and wood, a drill press ratesas a virtual necessity for your shop.

The size rating of a drill press canbe confusing because it represents themaximum diameter of a workpiece inwhich you can drill a center. For exam-ple, you could drill the axle hole in a16V2"-diameter wood wheel with a L6y2'drill press. Manufacturers like usingthis size system because it makes thetool seem twice as big as describing itschuck-centerpoint-to-post dimensionas 8V+".

The other size consideration in drillpresses is whether you prefer a floormodel or can utilize a benchtop unit. Interms of precision, you can get excellent

woodmagazine.com

results at either endof the size spectrum.Most dri l l presseshave slower speedsthat match up wellfor drilling metal.

The dr i l lp ress, l ikethis benchtop model,is a must-have tool forprecision work. lt canalso spin a wire wheelforremoving rust, or a bufffor polishing bothwood and metal.

The hammer dri l l androtary hammerThe hammer drill combines rotationwith a forward-and-back hammer actionthat the drill generates mechanically.The combination of these two forces-when teamed with specially hardeneddrill bits-quickly pulverizes concrete,brick, and stone. In addition to RPM(revolutions per minute) ratings, ham-mer drills also have BPM (beats perminute) specifications.

A similar tool, the rotary hammer,derives its percussive power with anon-board hydraulic mechanism. Thissystem delivers more energy to the bitthan a rotary drill. It's iust the kindof tool you need if you're drilling a lotof holes in concrete; for anchors or atermite treatment, for example. But it'salso quite pricey, so you may want toconsider renting instead of buying ifyour need is short term. (See the articleon buying vs. renting on page 8.)

Hammer drills and rotary hammersusually let you select among threemodes: rotation only, hammer only, orhammer plus rotation.

A rotary hammer will save you a lot oft ime and effort when dri l l ing holes inconcrete or stone.

The impact driverImpact drivers have long been com-mon pneumatic tools: You've heardtheir distinctive wails in pit rows andthe neighborhood tire shop. Cordedimpact drivers have also been relativelycommon. Until recently, though, impactdrivers were virtually unknown in abattery-powered format.

But several manufacturers now pro-duce compact versions of the impactdriver. They are promoting the tool as areal problem-solver for tough construc-tion and renovation tasks'around yourhome. If you're finishing a basement, forexample, you can use an impact driverto drill holes in concrete and then driveTapconrM or similar fasteners. If you'rebuilding a deck, an impact driver willdrill pilot holes andthen spin in lagscrews with apowerful ham-mering action. |l

A new generation ofbattery-powered impactdrivers provides the musclethat takes the hard work outof tough fastening jobs.

The size of a drill is usually rated bythe maximum diameter of bit shankthat wil l f i t into its chuck. The mostcommon size for both corded andbattery drills is 3/e". Heavy-duty drillsfeature 72" chucks.

A clutch is a handy feature on adril l-driver because it allows you toset the maximum torque you wantto apply to a fastener. This helpsprevent overdriving screws or strip-ping their heads.

Some dril l-drivers have dual speedrange switches that help you tailorthe tool to the task. ln the low range,the bit spins more slowly, but youhave additional torque and control.In the high range, you trade torquefor greater rotational speed-great'for fast dri l l ing results.

SourcesBosc h : 87 7 -267 -2499, boschtool s,comDelta : 800-438-2486, delta portercable.comDeWalt: 800-433-9258, dewalt.comG ri zzly z 800 - 523 - 47 7 7, grizzly.comPorter-(able : 800-487-8665, delta porterca ble.comRyobi : 800-5252579, ryobitools.com

1 0 1

check outpage 116.

Several ma n ufacturers offer14.4-volt drill-drivers (shownwith a rechargeable light).

b ! 1 ;

;5

I

[veryone enjoys the feel and appearan(e 0fasilky-smooth surface, but nobody wants t0spend hours sanding t0 get that smoothness.A random-orbit sander minimizes that chore,making it a valuable addition to your shop.

ff$sfl* u*mr$ efuqt*ss &fue$pgsg smrxe*F $*q# ffiB{}w**;A random-orbit sander combines therotary motion of a disk sanderwith the orbital action of a finishingsander. As a result, it cuts quickly,like a belt or disk sander, but with thecontrol and cross-grain capability of afinishing sander. This means that youcan move the tool in many differentdirections-even at right angles to thegrain direction-without producing anobjectionable scratch pattern.

As a result, you can quickly levelslightly misaligned woodworking joints.Cabinet face frames and rail-and-framedoors are two examples where the

102

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random-orbit sander excels. It's also agood choice for general finish prepara-tion (sanding a bookshelf, for example).

You want to pull the dust away fromthe surface so that you're constantly cut-ting fresh wood, not merely rearrangingthe dust on the board. Most random-orbit sanders have on-board dust collec-tion or the even better alternative ofeasy attachment to a shop vacuum. Theaccessory shown sbove right provides aneasy way to turn on the shop vacuumand sander simultaneously.

k**$*r",y seftdpftpe$"fSome sanders have five dust-collectionholes in the pad while others have eight.Although it may initially seem strangeto pay good money for sandpaper thatlooks like Swiss cheese, it makes a greatsense from a dust-collection standpoint.Some five-hole pads also incorporateslots extending from each hole, as shownopposite. This clever arrangement allows

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An inexpensive accessory l ike this (520or less) act ivates your shop vacuum whenyou switch on your sander. Turn off thesander, and the vacuum runs for threemore seconds to clear out the hose.

you to use either five- or eight-hole diskson the pad. Some people may say thatit's not the ideal situation, but it works.

#me- and tw*-hnnd versf,*msIf you typically use a random-orbitsander for extended periods of time,you'll probably find the two-hand-gripversion less fatiguing because you'resplitting the effort among more musclegroups. For access into tight areas or forworking on small pieces, though, youmay find a single-hand model easier tomaneuver across projects.

Whichever type you choose, resists theurge to press down on the sander to speed

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the smoothing process. In fact, it usuallyhas the opposite effect; plus, you makethe job much harder on yourself.

Keep sandpaper attachedH&L is shorthand for hook-and-loop,the generic term for the temporaryfastening system known by the brandname Velcro. PSA stands for pressure-sensitive adhesive, another way to holdabrasive disks to a random-orbit sander.

Most woodworkers prefer the hook-and-loop system because it provides afast and easy way to swap grits, evenbefore the disc is worn out. By contrast,

.,m[When the sander base has slots (left), you canuse either five- or eight-hole paper.

The Sander Sitter el iminates the nuisance ofwaiting for the sander to coast to a full stopbefore you can set it on your workbench.

woodmagazlne.com

they find that PSA starts to lose its gripafter a few times on and off the sander.

If you have a pneumatic random-orbitsander-it's often called "dual-action"when powered by air-you may findthat PSA is your best choice. That'sbecause these sanders often operate atvery high rotational speeds: 10,000 RPMis common. Friction at that speed canmelt the plastics used in the hook-and-loop system, so it's not a practical choice.

A quiclc course in sandingHere are the basics on how to get sandingover as quickly as possible. The grits rec-ommended are a suggestion that you'llneed to adapt, depending on the aggres-siveness of your sander and personalpreferences in surface quality. Anothervariable is the smoothness of your proiectbefore you begin sanding. For example,furniture-quality hardwood plywoodarrives in the lumberracks alreadysandedto 180 grit or finer.

Begin sanding dimensional hardwoodwith a coarse abrasive (80 grit). Aftersanding, inspect the surface to makesure that you've removed all the stockneeded. From that point forward, it thenbecomes simply a matter of each succes-sively finer grit removing the scratchesof the one before it.

Use a vacuum, cloth, or bench-dusting brush to remove the 8O-gritparticles and dust, and move to 100,l2O, and 150 grit. Between each grit,brush or wipe to ensure that you'restarting with a clean surface. Withwood, sanding much beyond 150 gritusually isn't necessary, and it can evencause problems, especially if you'reapplying a stain. That's because finergrits can burnish the wood's surface,preventing it from absorbing stain.

Don't skip grits-leapfrogging con-sumes more time and leave scratches.

The Bosch sander (left) requires a two-handed grip, while the Porter-Cable (right) leavesone hand free to reposition the stock as you work. Both sanders have variablelpeeds.

How to ge.t a g.rip onyour sanolng cnotcesAs with many tools, you'll find thatrandom-orbit sanders cover a wideprice spectrum, with the more expen-sive models ($165) easily costing twiceas much as low-price leaders ($70). Sowhat do you get as you invest more ofyour hard-earned dollars?

Sanders that are more expensiveusually have more robust internalcomponents, such as metal insteadof plastic gears, improved bearingsand electronic refinements, includingdustproof switches and speed controls.The way the sander fits in your handis another consideration. Test-grip anumber of sanders at the home centeror hardware store before making yourfinal choice. I

SourcesBosch : 87 7 -267 -2499, boschtools.comPorter Cabf e : 800-487 -8665,

deltaportercable.comSander Sltter and switched outletavai lable in many woodworking catalogs such asRockler.com and LeeValley.com.

Other sander optionsA belt sander aggressively removesstock, but its linear scratch pattern meansyou can only use i t with the grain ofwood. Cross-grain scratches (at miteredor butt corners, for example) are as visibleas beacons and difficult to remove.

A f inish sander overcomes thisproblem by moving a pad in a t ightcircular motion so you can sand with oracross the grain. The small scratchesusually aren't conspicuous, and thesander is easy to control. On thedownside, though, it's a slow worker.Most f inish sanders have square padsthat use quarter sheets of sandpaper, butyou' l l also f ind rectangular half-sheetversions. You may see these sanderscategorized with orbital models, but asquare or rectangular pad means that i t 'snot random orbit . Pneumatic (air-powered) sanders with orbital motionare often called "jitterbugs."

Disk sanders have big appetites, andthey aren't picky eaters. In the bl ink of aneye, the r im of the spinning disk caneasily take a nasty bite out of your project.And unfortunately, it's difficult to teachgood table manners to a disk sander.

Of course, many of these sanders spraydust everywhere, making the sandingchore more unpleasant and evenhazardous to your health. (See "Keep YourShop and Lungs Clean" on page 34.)

103

Portable Tbol StqrageYou can take it with you-

aybe installing a new dimmerswitch in the dining room isn'texactly like an astronaut's

repair of a solar panel on the Interna-tional Space Station. But in both cases,the repairman needs a way to get toolsand supplies to the worksite. Fortunately,you can get all the tools you need to thesite of your earthbound chores withreadily available portable tool storagethat falls into five general categories:Toolboxes: These can range from palm-sized soft-sided bags to metal monstersbig enough to dislocate your shouldereven before you load any tools.Mobile storage: Essentially, toolboxeswith wheels, though some of theseunits pack multiple functions.Wearable rtorage: This includesaprons, tool belts, and related accesso-ries. Your tools and supplies go whereveryou do.Organizers: These storage units keepfasteners, drill bits, and other smallparts neatly corralled.

104

On-site storage: This burgeoningcategory includes a wide range-fromplastic file crates to toolboxes for yourpickup truck.

Buckets and boxesfull of toolsSure, you can still find rectangularmetal toolboxes, but they are onlythe start of your portable storageoptions. You'll also find cloth andplastic carriers, and each materialhas its advantages and drawbacks.

Plastic boxes generally cost lessthan metal carriers, are lightweight,and dent-resistent, but scuff easilyand may become brittle and crack incold weather.

Metal does a great iob of shieldingvaluable tools and has traditionalappeal. Aluminum boxes weigh lessthan steel and don't rust. On thedownside, they dent more readily.Newer surfaces, such as diamondtreadplate, give a modern look.

Put your MP3 player in the zipperedcompartment, then plug the Craftsman Tunesand Tools Bag into any outlet at your jobsite.The bui l t- in ampli f ier and speakers let youdo more than whist le while you work. Almostforgot-it also carries tools.

One of theadvantagesof a 5-gal lonbucket-storagesystem is youcan quicklylocate thetoolyouneed-noneed torattlearound in the bottom of a bulky box. Thisversion is from Custom Leathercraft. You canorganize another bucket with drop-in plasticcompartments for bulk fasteners.


This 14"-fabricbag from Husky openswide for easy access to tools.

Fabric bags are toughand versatile carrlersYou'll find several designs for cloth car-rying bags, with battery-powered combokits and individual tools such as circularsaws. You can also purchase bags toserve as totes for specific tools or as ageneral carrier (above). The tough fabriccan't dent, of course, and you can squishthe bag to reduce its volume. That feat isimpossible with rigid materials such asmetal and plastic.

A number of manufacturers producecloth organizers for S-gallon buckets(opposite). Pockets both inside and outprovide high-visibility storage thatmakes it easy to find and grab the toolyou need. Snap straps lasso rolls of tape,and you can use the volume inside thebucket to transport supplies to the iob-site. To avoid the hassle of continuallvputting away tools, simply placethe loaded organizer right onyour bench. That way, youcan grab and go on amoment's notice.

This mobilework stationfrom Stanleyfeatures 7"wheels for easyrolling, evenover uneven ground.The cavernous lower binholds large tools, and parts bins organizefasteners and tool accessories. A generoustoolbox at top holds even more tools.

Make storage .a moving eiperiencePutting wheels under a toolbox is agreat idea, especially if you need totransport items that are heavy, bulky,or both. When you're shopping for oneof these units, make sure that it willaccommodate the stuff you need tomove. If you'll be hauling large tools,

woodmagazlne.com

for example, measure carefully toensure that they will fit. Anotherconsideration is ease of retrieval. Abig bin may offer generous volume,but if you fill it with small items,you may need to completely unpackit to find the one tool you need.

Also consider whether a mobiletoolbox includes storage for fasten-

ers and other small items that you'llneed at the worksite, like the modelbelow. Of course, you can always optfor separate small-item storage, but thatmeans one more thing to carry. Lookfor a telescoping handle that storesout of the way but extends to give youa leverage advantage when you're on aroll. Large wheels are better than smallones on uneven terrain; wide wheelshelp resist sinking into soft surfaces.

The walking workshopA well-stocked tool belt surrounds youwith your most-needed tools and sup-plies, while a shop apron trades awaymost of the tool-toting ability to keepyou clean. The general guideline is thatan apron is for shop use, but you wear atool belt on the jobsite.

There are two general approachestoward tool belts. The first is purchasinga one-piece rig that has a hammer loop,a series of pockets, a tape-measure well,and assorted tool slots (above right).lt's a

good solution for carpentry andgeneral-purpose tasks, butsome models have draw-

backs. A left-hander willimmediately notice that the ham-mer hook is usually locatedopposite his dominant hand,requiring double-handling each

time the hammer's drawn orreturned. In addition, therewill be times where a job

requires only a few tools insteadof the full capacity of the tool belt. That'swhy many people prefer the modularapproach: a leather or web belt to whichyou can easily add or subtract accessoriessuch as a fastener pouch, drill holster,utility-knife sheath, and so on. Thatway, you can customize your tool rig tothe iob.

You'll find modular and one-piecetool belts in both leather and fabric. Butno matter which approach you take,carefully examine each item before youbuy it to ensure that it meets your needs.For example, an open tape measure wellmight do okay most of the time, butlook for a strap to secure it if your work

involves maneuvering around in a crawlspace. Also check that the fastener pouchdoesn't have exposed rivets with edgesthat can dive under your fingernail asyou reach for a fastener.

A traditional tool belt (this model is fromDuluth Trading) is set up for general carpentry.

Everything in its placeEvery hardware store and big-box homecenter will offer a good selection ofsmall-part organizers. But don't stopthere. Also look at tackle organizers atthe sporting-goods store as well as stor-age accessories at the local crafts store.

Most organizers include dividers thatlet you split up the space to suit yourneeds. Some include a set of modularinsert cups so you remove the fastenersyou need and snap the lid on the rest, asshown below.

If you have a significant volume offasteners or supplies, look at the compart-mented plastic storage units that stackinside a S-gallon bucket. Adding a pad-ded lid to the bucket helps prevent spillsand also gives you a place to sit. al

Lay thisStanleyorganizer flat,open the l id, and l i f tout one of the storage cups-there arethree different sizes-for easy access tothe fasteners or parts you need. The extra-wide handle opening provides a .sure grip, even if you're wearing bulkygloves. They stack on the shelf, too.

Sources(raftsman : 800-549-4505, craftsman.comCustom Leather(raft : clccustomleathercraft.comDuluth Trading : duluthtrading.comHusky: homedepot.comStanley: stan leytools.com

1 0 5

Mobile Cabinets & Carts

Readry,Set, RollrF here are two types of home-shop enthusiasts:

I those who already own a mobile tool cabinetI and those who want one. Even if you're part of

the first group, read on because you'll discover usefulaccessories that boost the storage capacity of yourcabinet, both inside and out. You'll also learn about asmart way to create custom drawer labels so you caninstantly put your hand on the right tool.

In addition, you'll see how a mobile shop cart canhelp you get the most enjoyment and productivityfrom your time in the shop.

Think inside the drawerWhen you start looking at mobile toolcabinets, you'll see an incredible varietyof drawer configurations: shallow ordeep, narrow or wide, and even doorson some units. The setup that will workbest for you depends on the type ofwork you do because that in turn deter-mines the size of your tools. If you're amachinist, for example, you'll probablywant a chest that has mostly shallowdrawers to organize drills, taps, and cut-ters. If you thrive on engine work, you'llneed shallow drawers for wrenches andscrewdrivers, but also some deeperdrawers for larger tools and accessories.

Doors open wide to accommodatebulky items. But if a shelf is near thefloor, you may need to get down ontoyour knees to retrieve tools and supplies.You'll make the space more accessibleby installing a pull-out shelf. You canmake one yourself or find one in thekitchen-organization section of yourlocal home center.

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Having a great tool collection doesn't do you much good if you can't find the oneyou need. This cabinet from Kobalt features a flip-top lid and an add-on shelf.

Try before you buyEven with your eyes closed, you'd beable to distinguish between a home-owner-grade cabinet and a professionalmodel. The entry-level version won'thave individual drawer latches, andyou'll feel and hear metal-to-metal con-tact as the drawer scrapes-rather thanslides-open. When you close thedrawer, you'll need to make certain thatit doesn't bounce back or stop short.

As you move up the price ladder, you'llfind doors with individual lift latches.This is a great feature because it ensurespositive closing and also keeps the draw-ers from sailing open when you moveyour cabinet. With non-locking draw-ers, you'll need to put the entire cabinetin lock-down mode before moving it.

Better chests also use ball-bearingdrawer slides. These operate smoothlyand quietly, and also help boost the

YKDivide and conquer was a winning strategy forRoman legions, and it's a good way to organize yourtool cabinet, too. Dividers and trays (these are fromWaterloo Industries) are a good start, but you'll alsowant to recruit specialized organizers for socketsand other tools.

drawer's weight rating. Inexpensiveslides can complain loudly as you loadthe drawer, but ball-bearing slides seemto thrive on the work by operating moresmoothly under an increased load.


With the introduction of the Craftsman AXSsystem, Sears launched mobile tool storageinto the electronics age. Some people mayconsider a few features gimmicky, but thiscabinet wi l l st i l l be the coolest place you everparked a wrench.

Casters, lochs, and cablesCasters put the motion into your mobiletool cabinet, so they deserve some atten-tion. The usual setup features two castersthat swivel and two with fixed axles-similar to the setup your automobile. Asa result, positioning a cabinet against awall is similar to parallel parking, requir-ing additional space at each end topermit maneuvering. If you want to pusha cabinet straight back into a fitted space,four swivel casters are a better option.

Although casters are a real blessing inmoving a fully loaded cabinet, they alsoenable thieves to make your cabinet dis-appear. To help keep your tool collectionsecure, invest in a heavy-duty securitycable that tethers your cabinet to ananchor point solidly imbedded in thefloor or wall.

For the locks on the cabinet itself, lookfor pick-resistant tubular keys. If thecabinet you buy doesn't have this type,simply remove the stock lock and take ita local locksmith. The shop will be ableto provide a more secure replacement ata price lower than replacing even onequality tool. A locksmith can also helpyou if your upper and lower cabinets arekeyed differently.

woodmagazine.com

Plug into your tool chestA power strip on your tool chest can besomething that you pop on with a fewminutes' work or a factory-suppliedaccessory. Either way, it will add conve-nience and reduce your dependence onlong extension cords.

You can buy an intermediate chest(sits atop the rolling cabinet) from Sears.It's wired as a charging station for yourbattery-operated tools as well as personaldevices such as your mobile phone andMP3 player.

The Craftsman AXS system from Searstakes electronic convenience (and a fewgadgets) to the next level. Your tool chestcan have under-frame downlighting,two slide-out LED task lights, backlitnameplates, a 12-volt power outlet (auto-motive style), six-outlet power strip, andeven a USB port. A built-in message cen-ter delivers data on duy, date, time,indoor and outside temperature (viaremote sensor), timer, and alarm func-tions. The matching portable tool box(see page 104) includes a dock for yourMP3 player, and amplified speakers.

Go ahead: Pick a color,any color (almost)Years ago, a brown-wrinkle finish wasvirtually the only color choice for toolchests, and some old-school machinistsstill adhere to that tradition. But now,you have a wide palette of color choices,and can even order drawer frontsemblazoned with bright graphics inthemes ranging from NASCAR to NFLto patriotic. At least one maker pro-duces cabinets in a forest camouflagepattern that pleases some people butleaves others scratching their heads.

You can also buy a cabinet in stain-less steel, and it can look very sharp ifyou're willing to invest the time inpolishing it and avoiding fingerprints.Also be aware that stainless is softerthan regular steel, so it could dentmore easily if the manufacturer doesn'tcompensate by using a thicker gauge.

Label the contentsSome manufacturers produce drawerlabels so you don't have to rememberwhether the crow's-foot wrenches are inthe fourth or fifth drawer. But theprinted labels (some are magnetizedsets) can't anticipate all of your needs,so you may need to resort to hand-scrawling on masking tape.

Avoid both those alternatives witha hand-held labeling machine. Most

Craftsman magnetized labels make it easy tofind your tools.

models let you choose from several typestyles and sizes. Unlike the old-fashionedembossing machines, these new modelsproduce crisp type.

Put a shop cart into yourl o lshopping cart

Once you start using a shop cart, you'llwonder how you survived without it.Many models have generous drawervolume to keep your most-used toolsinstantly available. Use the top to stackparts as you move them among variousworkstations or to hold supplies. dF

Solve the problem of a cluttered workbenchby purchasing a rol l ing tool cart andoffloading the basic necessities into thedrawers. The top of this Grizzly cart providesa surface on which to place components of a '

work in progress.

SourcesCraftsman : 800-549-4505; craftsman.comGrizzly z 800 -829 - 47 52, grizzly.comKobaf t Tools : 262-7 81 -3600, lowes.comWaterf oo I ndustries : 7 1 4-522-8088;waterlooind ustr ies.com

107

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T h i s c o m p a c t c o m p r e s s o r h a s i m p r e s s i v e s p e c s : 2 0 0 P S I m a x i m u ma n d 5 . 4 S C F M a t 1 0 0 P S l . P u l l o n t h e h a n d l e t o c o n v e r t t h e u n i t t o ado l l y fo r easy ro l l i ng o r compac t ve r t i ca l s to rage .

but snra l l cnougl t to n lo \ , 'c r , r , i th r tu tunc luc s t ra i n .

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of cornprcssors , lc t 's f i rs t lc tok i t t ncr , r ,tcc l ' tno log ics for gct t ing a i r 1 tor , r 'c r tc tt hc j ob . ' l ' h cn ,

n , c ' l l c l i s c r - r ss l t r t r t a l r l cconrprcssors that r ' r ' i l l hanc ' l lc a n ' ic lcrangc of jobs in r 'our shct l t anc l arounc jt l tc ho l tsc . l : ina l l r , , r . r 'c ' l l covcr t l - rcaclva nt i tgcs of fcrcd lrv l ' r r . 'c u r-r i ts.

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a conr l ) rcssor (or a t least lcavc i t i r t vor r rshop ) r ' r ' h i l c vo r r hanc l l c j obs i t e cho rcs .

Best -Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

Don't let the small size of the JacPac refillablecarbon dioxide cylinder fool you. lt haspower to shoot 500 fasteners. Including theregulator, it weighs about five pounds.

One simple method involves adding anair regulator to a portable tank. Simplyfill the tank with air at a gas station, thenuse that compressed air. It's a good alter-native to lugging a portable compressorup to a second-floor room to install a fewpieces of baseboard.

One recent innovation in the air-powered arena is a high-pressure carbon-dioxide cylinder teamed with a regulator.The combination mounts on your belt,and therefore needs only a short hoseto connect the tool, as shown above.The carbon dioxide is stored in a liq-uid state, but quickly converts to a gaswhen it passes through the regulator.The cylinder maintains pressure as youuse up the carbon dioxide, so you getfull power down to the last fastener.You can have a cylinder rechargedat any paintball supply company forabout $5, and that should be enough toshoot about 500 fasteners. You can alsodo a cylinder exchange at stores thatsell the system.

Cordless (and hose-free) nailers reduce setuptime for projects. Choose from a framingnailer, such as this model, or a range of finishnailers and drivers for brads and staples.

woodmagazlne.com

You'll also find nailers that get theirpower by igniting gas from an onboardfuel cell. This system eliminates thenecessity of a compressor and air hoses,as shown bottom left.

Big jobs for station arycompressorsFrom the standpoints of depend-ability and performance, bigger reallyis better when it comes to air com-pressors. For starters, a large motor(sometimes requiring Z{o-volt powerfor the serious DIYer or auto mech-anic) squeezes the air to a higherpressure. A two-stage compressor, forexample, typically achieves a maxi-mum pressure of 175 PSI comparedwith 125 PSI for a smallcompressor. That's signifi-cant, because it meansthat a comparably-sizedtank holds 40 percentmore air at 175 PSI thanat I25 PSI. A 30-gallontank, for example, acts as ifit had a 4Z-gallon capacity.

A large tank helps ensurethat you'll never deplete thepressure below the tool'sworking requirement, evenwhen you run it wide open foran extended period. Second,a big tank means that yourcompressor will power onless often, extending thelife of the motor and thecompressor's components.Virtually all compressorsare rated at a maximum ser-vice rate of 50 percent, whichthat the motor should run nofrequently than half the time.

Small compressorsare hard workersMid- to small-size compressors with4- to 6-gallon tanks lack some of themeatier specifications of their big broth-ers, but they make up for it by beingtough competitors. If you match. thecompressor to the tool, you'llnever out-work it. Many of the contractor-stylecompressors have twin quick-connecthose outlets because they have enoughmuscle to keep two workers busy. Even asmall compressor, such as a 150-PSI unitwith a 5-ga11on pancake-shaped tank,has enough capability to keep a carpen-ter with nail guns working hard.

To achieve big performance in a smalland portable package, manufacturers

have developed some ingenious so-lutions. For example, product engineersshed the weight of a cast-iron compres-sor block, and substitute steel sleevesinside an aluminum block. Many alsoabandon the oil-filled crankcase andsubstitute Teflon piston rings and acooling fan. In fact, an oil-free compres-sor requires less maintenance than theoil version.

Choose from a widerange of air toolsYou'll use a compressor for much morethan simply filling tires and inflatingpool toys. An impact wrench (whatauto shops use to remove lug nuts)

takes the hard work out ofmany vehicle maintenancechores. A word of caution:Be sure to invest in a set

of impact sockets. An ordi-nary socket could shatterwhen subiected to an

impact tool. But impact-ratedsockets (usually black incolor) have beefier walls tostand up to the strain. Youcan use standard sockets,though, with an air ratchet.

For wood construction, youcan drive a range of air-poweredfasteners, from framing nails to

finishing nails, brads, andstaples.-lF

meansmore

This 28-gallon compressor delivers thepower to run a wide range of pneumatic toolsfor jobs in woodworking, metalworking, andauto mechanics.

Finish nailer, brad nailer 3 SCFMStapler 3 SCFM

Air ratchet 4 SCFM

Drill6mall) 4 SCFM

Air hammer 6 SCFM

lmpact wrench (72") 8 SCFM

Straightline sander 9 SCFM

Sandblaster (medium) 10 scFM*Many of these tools don't actually require an operatingpressure that high, but tool manufacturers convert tothat pressure to make comparisons easy. Values listedare representative of the category and may vary amongmanufacturers.

SourcesCampbell- Hausfeld : 800-543-6400, chpower.comDeWalt : 800-433-9258, dewalt.comf acPac : 800-567-0864, su pplierpipel ine.comParf ode : 847 -634-7 048, paslode.com

SCFM (Standard Cubic Feet per Minute) required at 90 Psl*

1 0 9

Lasers forthe HomeThe straight storyon straight l ines

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;ilkryt#itool, shown above projectinghorizontal and vertical lines, is a real multitasker.Other functions include electronic stud sensor, sonic distance measure and a continuous-readfeature that lettyeu measure as you walk. lt retails for about 570._ \ r /

its 2- to S0-foot range, and is useful incalculating materials for a number of proj-ects throughout your home.

People who do appraisals or other realestate work find a laser/ultrasonic toolespecially handy. More-expensive mea-suring devices have built-in calculators.The devices usually toggle easily betweenthe inch/foot system and metric.

Stanley has a line of Tru-Laser toolsthat utilize the laser beam itself forlinear measurement, a technology that

the company says offerssuperior accuracy comparedwith ultrasonic.

Linear measurements areeasy, of course, but teamlaser devices with an inch-foot calculator (see page 112for the Construction Master5) and you can quickly esti-mate areas for flooring,drywall, paint, wallpaper,and more. These two toolsalso speedily figure perime-ters, as when you're buyingcrown molding or othermillwork. Or, calculate thevolume of rooms, a key pieceof information when you're

sizing the capacity of an air-conditioneror humidifier.

Another example in this category is ano-contact infrared thermometer thatincludes a laser for targeting of surfacesthat can be out of reach or dangerouslyhot. You can use an infrared thermometerto find hot spots in electrical panels, mov-ing parts, or in automotive applications.

Lasers that show the pathTool companies often refer to this cate-gory as "laser-guided" tools, althoughthe laser doesn't actually take over thesteering or positioning of the tool. It'smore correct to say that these are toolswith laser guides, showing you wherethe blade will cut or the hole will bedrilled. These guides can slash tedioussetup time, promote better work habits,and provide more-accurate results.

One example is the drill press oppositethat utilizes twin criss-crossing laserbeams to pinpoint exactly where the bitwill enter your stock. You find this fea-ture on some new drill presses. Or, retrofityour existing tool-benchtop or floormodel-with an easy-to-install after-market unit. For the best results, bepatient when you adjust the aim of the

he first time many of us saw thepower of a laser was when arch-villain Auric Goldfinger advanced

the high-energy beam toward a captiveJames Bond. When that film debuted in7964, few people could have imaginedthat lasers would eventually becomepractical tools in home workshops.

There are three main uses for laserproducts that you'll find helpful:

I a beam indicates layout linesfor a project (tile installation,for example),

. a laser shows the spot or linewhere a tool will cut(a drill press is one use), and

. a laser serves as areference point to showwhere a measuring functionis occurring (as with anultrasonic measuring tool).

Laseru that pointSome ultrasonic measuring toolsdisplay distance with iust the pushof a button. A model from Calcu-lated Industries, right, projects alaser beam to indicate the target,eliminating guesswork. It claimsa 99 percent accuracy rating over

1 1 0

This laser fromCalculated lndustr iesreads distances.


One great advantage of this DeWalt lasersystem is that you can switch on the laserwhile the blade is stationary. This simplif iessetups and produces more-accurate results.

beams so that the cross mark exactlymatches the drill's centerpoint. It's alsoa good idea to periodically verify thesetup, especially if your drill is on amobile base, because the vibration andshocks of repeated moving may compro-mise accuracy.

You also can equip your mitersaw witha laser to indicate exactly where the bladewill cut, as shown above. There are twobasic ways of doing this. Some saws havefactory-installed systems that indicatethe cutlines, and the beam can beswitched on even with the blade station-ary. The other technology involves a

Equip your mitersaw with an aftermarketlaser from lrwin, and you'l l increase youraccuracy. The beam switches on when theblade spins.

laser-equipped saw-blade washer thatreplaced the factory-supplied washer,as shown above. When you switch onthe blade, the centrifugal force causedby the rotation closes the electricalcontacts inside the housing, turning onthe laser. This affordable retroflt^adaptsto a wide range of saw makes andmodels. Bear in mind though that bothof these systems usually show only oneside of a saw's kerf, so you'll need toconsistently position your stock so thatthe waste side of the line is to your right(as you face the saw).

You'll also find circular saws thatproiect a laser line ahead of the

I UtaOe like the model above right.Simply match the laser projec-tion with your marked cutl ineand keep them aligned whileyou cut. This also trains youto aim the saw by lookingat where it will go instead offocusing on where the blade iscurrently cutting.

Lasers that find levelLasers excel at establishing lay-out lines because the line isdependably straight and youdon't need to fuss with erasingpreliminary marks. In addition,you won't cover up your layoutlines as the work progresses. Forexample, the old-fashioned wayof marking out a start line for aceramic flooring installation hasyou place the marks directly onthe backer board, where they'requickly lost under the first appli-cation of thinset mortar. With alaser layout though, fou simplyturn on the beam whenever youwant to inspect your progress, asshown opposite.

Some circular saws have a laser (this modelhas two) that projects a beam onto yourworkpiece. Match the light to the markedcutline for results that are right on the beam.

Secure mounting is one of the keys forsuccess in using a laser. With lightweightunits, use special adhesive strips to tempo-rarily secure it to the wall or floor andthen remove the device without leavingany residue. Larger units offer differentmounting options such as a tripod, asshown below, or a special base that permitstemporary attachment to a stud or thateven clips on to a suspended ceiling grid.

In addition to the ceramic floors andsuspended ceiling proiects already men-tioned, you can use a laser for layoutlines for a wide range of other projects.These include hardwood and laminatefloors, vinyl floor tiles, ceramic tile onwalls, wallpaper, embossed ceiling pan-els, hanging pictures, installing shelves,nailing on outlet and switch boxes, install-ing cabinets or a chair rail, and manymore proiects around the home. lF

Acculine's manual rotary-head laser ( less thanS100) quickly f inds horizontal and vert ical.planes-ideal for tasks from bui lding wallsand instal l ing cabinets to hanging wallpaper.

SourcesAcculine : 262-242-1161; acculinepro.comCalculated Industries: 800-854-8075; calculated.comCraf tsman : 800-549-4505; craftsman.comDeWalt: 800-433-9258, dewalt.comlrwin: irwin.comSkil: skil.comRyobi : 800-525-2579; ryobitools.com

Twin lasers generate a crosshair target that shows thecenter of your bit, promoting faster and more-accurateresults. Newgl drill presses build in this technology, butit's also available as an add-on for some older models.

woodmagazine.com1 1 1

Digital Tools Under $100Value-packed devices deliver accu racy

igital technology touches nearlyevery aspect of modern life: tele-phones, TVs, and computers, of

course. But digital is also steadily becom-ing a part of home workshops. Someshop tools, such as tablesaws and drillpresses, are beginning to sprout digitalreadouts. But in this article we're focus-ing on tools under $100.

The dlgi ta l imcl inom*t**"two-stepThe built-in blade-bevel scale of a table-saw will usually get you into the generalneighborhood of an angle. But to bringreal accuracy home, try a digital incli-nometer (or tilt box)-a clever little toolthat quickly compares the angular dif-ference between two surfaces (above, thesaw table and the blade).

To calibrate the tool, first stick it ontoyour tablesaw's top with the rare-earth

1 1 2

magnets built into the bottom of thecase. Push a button to zero out the set-ting. Next, use the magnets on the sideof the case to adhere it onto the sawblade. (It works with saws that tilt theblade either right or left.) Now you cancrank the blade to the exact angle youneed. The digital readout displays inincrements of 0.05 degrees, but thestated accuracy is 0.2 degrees.

A calculated way toirnprove ac{uratyMost fifth-graders are proficient atworking with fractions. But it's oftentough to find a fifth-grader when you'rein the middle of a project. In thatcase, you'll find it helpful to buy acalculator that works in feet, inches,and fractions.

The Construction Master 5 Calcula-tor, shown at right, can easily add,

lf you want to quickly breeze through estimatingand project-planning chores, get yourself a mathwizard such as the Construction Master 5 fromCalculated I ndustr ies.


subtract, multiplt and divide all ofthose dimensions and metric values,too. You can easily toggle betweenEnglish metric systems or even includeboth systems within a string of calcula-tions. But those capabilities merely hintat the full power of this handheld mathwhiz. You can calculate square yards ofcarpet, cubic feet of room volume forsizing a dehumidifier, cubic yards ofconcrete for a driveway repair, figurerafter lengths for a new shed or riser andtread sizes for a set of deck stairs, evenlyspace balusters on a balcony or picturesalong a wall, and much more.

The calculator is intuitive touse: You merely push the keys in thesame sequence as speaking the mathoperation. But don't worry if you getinto a tough situation such as figuringthe length of edging for a circularplanting bed around a tree. The calcula-tor includes onboard storage for itspocket reference guide, so you canquickly look up the exact procedureyou need.

their rigid storage case after use to avoiddamage from abrasion and impact.

Laser and digital tapemeasurementsSome tools work hard, but others aremultitasking overachievers. The Bulls-Eye laser level (boftom) from Black &Decker combines an auto-leveling laser(with three lines) and a digital tape mea-sure. The self-leveling feature is a realtimesaver because vou don't need tofiddle with tedious alignmentadiustments.

New devices, such as theScale Master from Calcu-lated Industries at rightspeeds the translation

Digital calipers (about 540) removeuncertainty from precision measuringchores. lf you're a left-hander, look for amodel with a reversed configuration.

Measurinq without theFrench acientCalipers and many other measuringinstruments have long had a supplemen-tal scale that was developed by PierreVernier in 1631. (Interestingly, Vernier'sname wasn't widely associated with thescale until the early 19th century.) TheVernier scale is easy to understand anduse, but it involves the ability to clearlysee small markings.

Digital calipers overcome that short-coming with a bold readout (above) thatcan display in fractions, decimal inches,or the metric system. A 6" measuringrange should handle most home-shop

of plans and Fapsdrawn to scale. rF

The Scale Masterfrom Calculatedlndustr iesmeasures scalesin drawingsand maps.Doing

Readingcan be

-

your level bestthe vials of an standard levela dispiriting task. The result

depends on how you holdyour head, and getting anyaccuracy at all in cramped ordimly lit areas is a toughassignment. But the technol-ogy built into digital levelsremoves any uncertainty.The bright display is easy toread (Ieft), but there's also anaudible beep at O, 45, and 90degrees, so you could evenoperate the tool with youreyes closed. If the surfaceyou're measuring isn't per-fectly level or plumb, you canread the angle to an accuracyof an amazing one-tenth ofa degree.

The inclinometer functioncan also switch to read a slopepercentage or a pitch. Thisis useful for surfaces thatrequire an elevation changeto drain properly. You'll findit handy when you're build-ing a deck, installing gutters,or setting up forms to pour apatio or sidewalk.

SourcesBlack & Decker:

800-733-71 1 1,blackanddecker.com

Calculated Industries :800-854-8075; calculated.com

Craftsman : 800-549-4505,craftsman.com

Grizzly : 800 - 523 - 47 7 7, grizzly.comWixey: wixey.com

This Craftsman24" digital level includes alaser reference beam. You'll also find this toolin a torpedo version that easily fits into yourtoolbox, or in a 48" size.

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chores. Calipers have theability to take inside andoutside measurements aswell as depth and stepmeasurements. You cancombine inside and out-side measurement capa-bilities to directly readthe difference betweentwo components such asa shaft and a hole. If yourcalipers' manual doesn'tcover all of these proce-dures, spend a few min-utes on the Internet, andyou'll discover plenty ofhelpful advice.

And although the toolis easy to use, it's notidiotproof. So it's worthdeveloping good workhabits such as holding itsquare to the object you'remeasuring. Even a slightangle defeats the accuracybuilt into the tool. Be sureto return the calipers to

A digital tape measure in Black & Decker's Bul lsEye laserlevel brings your DIY projects into the 21st century. Thebuilt-in auto-leveling laser projects vertical and horizontallines, so you finish projects faster and more accurately.

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:l :,:.*'{i,::l : : : : : : : : ; : : : : : : : : : : : : : : il: : : :: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : ] i l l : : :: : i : : : : ; r : ; ; : ; : : : : : : : i l : : :

Clamps for the HomeGet a grip on your work and budgetIFhere's an old saying that you

I can't have too many clamps. AndI while that's accurate, it's only half

the truth, because it's not simply thenumber of clamps; you also must havethe right type.

- We'll take a quick look at a widerange of clamps that will make yourtime in the shop easier, safer, and moreproductive.

Work-holding clampsAt the drill press, /ou can use ordinaryC-clamps to attach a plywood base thatkeeps you from drilling into the metaltable and prevents chipout when the bitbreaks through the wood. A fence-alsoheld in place with a C-clamp-helpsimmobilize the edge of your stock sothat the bit can't grab and spin it. (Thisis a common source of shop injuries.)Alternatively, you can use a drill-presshold-down that fits into one of the slotsmilled through the drill-press table.

Five Favorlte Clampsfor DlYers

One-handedbar clamp

Sl id ing-bar c lamp

Spring clamp

'114Best-Ever Home Shop ldeas 2OO9

This VarioClippix by Bessey is a clevervariat ion on the standard spring clamp withinfinitely adjustable jaws up to 4".

Assembly anddisasseniUly clampsThere's a wide arsenal of clamp types thatcan help when you're assembling proi-ects. Spring clamps are among the leastexpensive and easiest to use, but eachsize has a fairLy limited clamping rangeand only a single pressure setting. Andwhen you use them to hold glued parts,they sometimes make the parts slide outof position. A new style of ratchetingspring clamp (the Bessey VarioClippix,above, is one example) overcomes manyof these shortcomings by allowing you toadiust the opening, the clamping angle,and the amount of clamp force.

If you get into repairing and reassem-bling furniture, you'll need some large-scale clamps. Pipe clamps are one of theleast expensive alternatives and also oneof the mostversatile. The length of clampyou can make is limited only by thelength of pipe you have. If all of yourpipe sections are threaded at both ends,you can expand clamping capacity byioining them with pipe couplers. By theway, we recommend the fixtures that uset/+" pipe because the Vz" version doesn'thave enough muscle for big iobs.

Bar clamps pul l the boards together edge toedge while the springs clamps keep the boardfaces f lush. To balance clamping pressure,Alternate bar clamps over and under a panel.

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Another type of bar clamp usesfixed lengths of steel, aluminum, orcomposite material. In similar lengths,these types generally weigh less than apipe clamp. However, you can't combinetwo clamps to make one that's longer.

Sliding-bar clamps are a long-timefavorite in the shop. The one-handedbar clamp has become popular in recentyears because it's fast and easy to use,and keeps one hand free to adjust projectparts (not an easy task using sliding-barclamps). As an added feature for one-handed clamps, you can reverse the jawsto use it as spreader. This is handy indisassembly operations (taking apart achair, for example) or in cases where youneed to apply outward pressure.

At the top end of the bar clampcategory are those with large paralleljaws and impressive clamping force.Although a number of manufacturersnow produce a similar design, the BesseyK-Body and Jet clamps are often consid-ered the premier examples of this type.

A four-way clamp provides steady pressureand corners that help square the project. lt'sidealfor assembling boxes and frames.

More a$sembly clampsFor smaller-scale assemblies such aspicture frames and boxes , try a clampingsystem such as the Veritas 4-Way SpeedClamp, shown above. One handy featureis the quick-release nut that can slidealong the threaded rod until it's nearlyin position. You then engage it on therod and tighten.

Another handy assembly clampsecurely holds corners or T-assembliessquare to each other, even when theirthicknesses are different. This clampconsiderably simplifies and speeds theconstruction process, whether you'reassembling drawers or a large cabinet.The Jorgensen "Pony" 90"-angle clamp,top right, is one example.

With this clamp and one hand, you can snugup miters, butt joints, and even T-joints. Theclamp self-adjusts to pieces of different widths.

Clamps for round andirregirlar shapesWhen you need to apply pressure allaround a circular form, a nylon bandclamp may be iust the solution you need.To use it, Iasso the parts you're ioining,pull the clamp snug, then tighten theratchet mechanism with a wrench. Thesmall version of this clamp is 15' longand usually includes four metal cornerbrackets so that you can convenientlyuse it when assembling picture frames.

In a pinch, /ou can also use a ratchet-ing tie-down strap as a band clamp. You'llfind that these are quite inexpensive athardware stores and the home centers.

If you get into a really big proiect,make a supersized band clamp using atrucker's tie-down strap. Don't get toocarried away with the pressure, though,or you could crush your project. ll

SourcesBessey: 800-828-1 004, besseytools.comf orgensen : 312-666-0640, adjustableclamp.comVeritas: 800-871 -81 58, leevalley.comWoodcraft: 800-225-1153. woodcraft.com

A band clamp works great on rectangularprojects, but really shows its value on odd jobs:multi-sided, circular, and other toughies. Thelarge trigger on this modelfrom Woodcraftt ightens the strap l ike a one-handed bar clamp.

1 1 5

UnderstandingTbol Batteries

hen woodworkers talked aboutbattery-powered tools a fewyears ago, the discussion was

almost always about drills. But tool-makers have now hitched batteries to awide afiay of power tools, includingreciprocating saws, impact drivers,flashlights, angle grinders, sanders, iig-saws, staplers, hedge trimmers, jobsiteradios with amplified speakers for yourMP3 player, and many more. A numberof tool manufacturers bundle several ofthe most popular tools along with acharger and two batteries to keep youworking strong all day.

The battles ofbattery technologyA battery-powered tool will likely haveone of three battery chemical systems:nickel-cadmium (NiCd), lithium-ion(Li-ion), or nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH).At present, Li-ion grabs most of the head-lines because it's the relative newcomer.But iust because Li-ion has a better pressagent doesn't mean that the other tech-nologies are going to quickly or quietlydisappear. After all, millions of homeshops have tools with NiCd and NiMH

1 1 6

batteries and chargers. In addition, thesetwo technologies have been around lon-ger than Li-ion, so their characteristicsare well established.

NiCd batteries, which debuted in1946, charge rapidly and efficiently,and don't require critical control ofcharging conditions. (That meansthey're more tolerant of heat and coldthan other chemistries.) They producea steady voltage when discharging(while powering your tools), andthe system has lower internal resistancethan NiMH. This means the NiCdbatteries achieve a higher maximumdischarge rate. On the negative side,NiCd batteries are the heaviest of thethree systems, a disadvantage if you'reusing the tool for long periods, or over-head. And, cadmium is a heavy metal,which is dangerous to discard.

NiMH batteries store more charge(think of them as larger fuel tanks), andthat translates into longer run timesthan NiCd. The unit that describes theamount of stored charge is the amp-hour(abbreviated Ah). NiCd batteries offer amaximum of 2.4 Ah, but NiMH maxesout at 3.5 Ah. As another plus, NiMH

chemistry uses no heavy metal, unlikeNiCd. TWo drawbacks: NiMH batteriescost 35olo to 4oo/o more than NiCd, andthey typically exhibit drops in voltage asthe battery discharges. You'll oftennotice this as a distinct loss of powerwhile you're using the tool.

It takes 15 cells, each rated at 1.2 volts, toproduce the long run times of this 18-voltnickel-metal-hydride battery pack.


!

iTI

Enter Lithium-ionAlthough some accounts would haveyou believe that Li-ion is a brand-newtechnology, it's really only new to powertools. Li-ion is the battery chemistryfound in portable electronic devicessuch as cell phones, personal digitalassistants, and laptop computers. It'salso the technology that makes cardiacpacemakers possible, and it remains thepower source of choice for implantablemedical devices. To understand why Li-ion batteries are causing such a stir, youneed to know a little about the internalconstruction of a tool's battery pack. Ifyou took the housing off a pack, you'ddiscover that it's composed of a series ofindividual cells, as shown previous pagebottom. With NiCd and NiMH chemis-try, each cell produces 1.2 volts. Themanufacturer then wires a number ofcells together in series to produce thedesired voltage. (By connecting 10 cells,the manufacturer produces a l2-voltbattery.) So it's easy to see how increas-ing a battery pack's voltage quicklymakes it larger and heavier.

On the other hand, each Li-ion cellproduces 3.6 volts, so it requires onlythree cells to make 10.8 volts. The effecton tool size is dramatic: Bosch's 10.8-volt Litheon drill-driver weighs only 4ounces more than just the battery froma competitor's l2-volt NiMH drill. Ifyou're lugging around a drill all day, theweight savings makes a big difference.

Li-ion power doesn't fade, so there's nowarning of a low charge. Most Li-ion toolshave fuel gauges on the tool or battery.

Another advantage of Li-ion is that itholds its charge better than NiCd instorage: a distinct advantage to peoplewho enioy working with tools but don'tdo it every day, or even every week (forexample, DIYers).

Of course, tool manufacturers areutilizing Li-ion technology to producebatteries comparable in size and weightto the traditional units, but with volt-ages higher than practical only a fewyears ago. So, there's a growing numberof 24- and even 36-volt tools on themarket. With these muscular batterypacks, a whole new range of tools hasbecome practical. Now, you can have arotary hammer with legitimate power.And a circular saw with a 36-volt batterypack is an unmistakably serious tool.

A charger with a built-in fan, like this Ridgidmodel, cools the battery before and duringcharging, which prolongs battery life.

Batteries and chargersare getting smartelOld-style chargers reenergized depletedbatteries, but they sometimes alsohelped the battery to an early grave.That's because they couldn't recognizeconditions that produced problems dur-ing the charging process. If you put anoverheated battery onto the charger, forexample, the unit would try to force thebattery to take a charge that it was in nocondition to accept. Some chargers nowinclude refinements such as built-in fansto dissipate damaging heat. (See phototop rrght.)

Now, an intelligent battery pack (com-monly available on Li-ion units) includesa computer chip that helps regulatethe incoming charging current as wellas the work-producing output. The chiptracks charge and discharge patterns,and records the first date of use for war-ranty purposes. Some battery packs evenhave easy-to-read "fuel gauges" that tellyou how much of the charge remainsi. ,eserrr.. (See photo top te1t.".ll

SourcesRyobi : 800-525)579, ryobitools.comRldgid: homedepot,comMilwaukee : 262-7 81 -3600, milwa ukeetool.com

Even the best rechargeable battery hasa limited lifespan, and after a while willrefuse to accept a wor,kable charge. Insteadof trashing your old battery, take it to' aretailer that serves as a collection point '

for the Rechargeable Battery RecyclingCorporation (RBRC). Some of the better-known retailers include The Home Depot,Best Buy, Target, Circuit City, and others.To find the drop-off location nearest toyou, contact RBRC by calling 800-822-8837or visiting its Web site: RBRC.org.

Some manufacturers now selltools, batteries,and charge.rs ir la carte. You can add to thesystem later-and save money-by purchasingadditional tools without a battery or charger.

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Eking Prycisionl ru'v,"u,o,,"e *o*u*ol-ffom 3 POftablg POWef TOOIS

see the tools above as therough-work trio, not to be

mentioned in the same breath withthe word "precision." Typically,woodworkers rough-size wood mate-rials with a circ saw and finish-cutthem on a tablesaw; or they rely ontheir bandsaw to cut curved parts,fearing they'd hack up workpieceswith a jigsaw; or they view their cord-less drill as a convenience-not nearlyas precise as a drill press.

Discover shop-proven strategies to elevate your circ saw,jigsaw, and portable drill to the stratosphere of performance.

But what if you don't own a tablesaw, bandsaw, or drill press? What if you don't havethe extra jack to buy these stationary power tools? Can you perform high-qualitywoodworking with the much-maligned trio? The answer: Absolutely! With the rightaccessories, bits, blades, and a shop-made helper or two, improved-if not flawless-precision is well within your grasp. Here's how to turn these "go-away" tools into"go-to" superstars.

Crosscutting, ripcutting, andbevel-cutt ing along ast ra ight l ine sum up thecirc saw's role. To ensuresuccess, equip the too lwi tha qual i ty b lade, match ing i twith the material and typeof cut (see right), andadjusting the blade depth'lzs"

below the work.

1 1 8

Carbide saw-blade savvyfO ff youlre cutting softwood, softwood plywood,and MDF or ripcutting hardwood, a standard or thin-kerf 24-tooth,7l+" combination blade will deliver arespectable cut. It has qn aggressive 20o tooth hookand costs about $tS. g For a fine-finishing blade tocut hardwood and hardwood veneer plywood, pay afew bucks more for a 40-tooth, hard-body thin-kef-blade. Costing around $30, its 12" toothangle cuts less aggressively, leaving few splinters. Q)A standard-kerf 4O-tooth blade, with its20" tooth hook, delivers the cleanest cut, only at a slower rate. Price: about $45.


Troubleshaating prohlernsAlignment woes. Do a two-step to tune up your sawfor spot-on accuracy. First, square the saw's baseplateto the blade. With the tool upside down (andunplugged), loosen the blade-depth lock. Lower theblade, and lock it into place. Then, retract the bladeguard. Fit a square snugly against the blade body andbaseplate sole (PhotoA). Adjust and lock the baseplateto square.

Also, using an adjustable square, check whether thebaseplate edge is parallel to the blade (Photo B). If youdetect a difference from the front to back, adjust thebaseplate. If you can't adjust the baseplate, add a shop-made zero-clearance subbase discussed under Splinter-ing and tear-out below.

Finally, using a drafting triangle, check the calibra-tions on the blade-angle scale at 30" and 45". If yourscale is off, incise these intersections with a sharpblade or nail for speedy reference later.

Kickback and wavering cuts. It 's scary when a circsaw iumps back during a cut. You fear injury andchewing up the workpiece. Many factors lead to kick-back: a lack of stock support, which causes the materialsurrounding the saw to bind the blade; a forced feedrate; or a hung-up cord. As shown (Photo C), it pays toequally support material on both sides of the cutlineand-if needed-clamp the workpiece down to pre-vent it from moving when sawing. Using sawhorsesand sacrificial 2x2s under the workpiece provide acheap solution. Also, don't force the saw; you'll knowwhen the motor slows. Drape the cord over your shoul-der so it doesn't catch and yank the saw off course.

To correct wavering or binding freehand cuts, makea straightedge guide customized to your saw, like theone at rigltt. Another option: Buy a clamp-on toolguide with a circ saw subbase, as shown previotts page,top left. Such systems prevent the tool from strayingfrom the cutline. (See other helpful shop guides fromWOODt magazine at rr,oorl r rr ;r,q; r z i n t ' .t '<lrrr / too l g tr idrs. )

Splintering and tear-out. Unlike a tablesaw blade,the teeth of a circ-saw blade cut from the bottom up,so it's the top face of a workpiece where splinteringtypically occurs. For this reason, place the good face ofyour workpiece down. Tear-out occurs when the bladeexits the edge of the workpiece, creating large splinters.Several strategies can eliminate these problems (photoD). Beyond adding a sharp blade, they include pressingmasking tape over the cutline; securing a scrap backerblock where the saw blade exits the work; and attach-ing a zero-clearance, Z+"-thick hardboard subbase tothe saw's sole, ensuring that the subbase edges parallelthe blade.

When sizing the subbase, make it the same length asyour tool's sole, but make the width between the bladeand subbase edge a whole number, such as 6',, and.you'll save time setting up for a cut by not having todeal with fractions. Once you've cut the subbase,secure it with countersunk screws, washers, and nuts,or cloth-backed double-faced tape. Another strategy:Score the cutl ine with a knife (photo E).

woodmagazine.com

Measure at frontback of blade, from

Fdge of baseplate.

t

/ " ,

Painter'smaskin! lapeon both filrgsand end

a\

Backer blockclamped toedge

1 1 9

tr

Contro lgu ide

You can't make a good cut with a cheap,down-and-dirty j igsaw, regardless of bladestyle or qual i ty. A good tool features guiderol lers behind the blade to provide supportand keep i t from deflect ing. Some Boschjigsaws (see above) also include precisioncontrol guides that contain the blade alongboth sides. A lock-on button, sawdust blower,variable speed, and straight/orbital cutt ingoptions also help del iver a qual i ty cut whenmatched with the workpiece thickness andmaterial. (The less orbital cutt ing action, thecleaner the cut.) Sti l l one more feature is ananti-spl inter insert in the baseplate, serving asa zero-clearance subbase.

When selecting blades, choose onebased on the material you intend tocut, its thickness, and the type ofcut. The teeth per inch (tpi) of awood or plywood jigsaw bladeranges from 6 tpi (coarse) to 20 tpi(fine), with 6-tpi blades being fastand aggressive. Ground, close-setteeth yield clean, precision cuts,while narrow blades excel at turn-ing sharp corners. As the nameimplies, rely on plunge-tip (and nottapered-tip blades) for plunge cuts.

Also, expect to find two styles ofupper-blade ends: T-shank and U-shank. This describes the part thatinserts into the tool. Of these, theT-shank blades hold more securelyin iigsaws that accept them.

Guide rol ler

N:r,ryt

T-shank U-shank

f!Best blade choices(| o tpi for fast, coarse cuts; @ t0 tpifor straight, fine cuts; i s\to tpi reverse-toothfor straight, splinter-free cuts on the surface where the blade exits the workpiece; t4,)glogressive-tooth with graduating tpifor fqs-t, clean cuts in thick and thin material;--( S )tZ tpi for narrow, curved cuts in woods; ( A ) ZO tpi for fine, narrow curved cuts infr'oods and plastics.

tr

Trou bleshooting problemsBlade deflection and saw marks. Deflection occurswhenthe blade bends to the right or left of the cutline [PhotoAl, leaving an unsquare edge and, in severe cases, ruiningthe workpiece. Saw marks leave rough edges. Choosingthe right tool and blade are part of the solution, as well asusing a straightedge to guide the saw along for straight cuts.When cutting curves, stayYte" outside the cutline. Clean upcurved cuts with a drill-press-mounted sanding drum (con-cave cuts) or with a disc sander (convex cuts). Or, make ahardboard template of the cut edge and use it, along with arouter and flush-trim bit, to true the edge.

Splintering and tear-out. Cure these with the sametechniques described on the previous page used to reducesplintering and tear-out with a circ saw. Score and/or tapecutlines, employ backing materials, and use a zero-clear-ance subbase or anti-splinter insert.

Kickback. Culprits here: binding due to a lack of stocksupport, wrong blade speed and feed rate, a bent blade, ora hung-up cord. Make practice cuts in scrap to determinethe ideal blade speed and feed rate. Then, use the circ sawtips on the previous page.

Rough field cuts. Simple solutions apply when you cutout an opening in the middle of a workpiece. For fastplunge cuts, insert a plunge-tip blade into the iigsaw,turn on the tool, and slowly tilt the blade into the wasteside of the workpiece (Photo B). For more precision, drillblade-start holes at the opening corners to accommodatethe jigsaw blade. Next, clamp a straightedge into place,insert the blade into a hole, and begin cutting (Photo C).


For project bui lding, a l ightweight,cordless 12- or 14.4-volt variable-speeddrill with a keyless chuck provides allthe torque and freedom you' l l need.Having two is better, allowing you todri l l pi lot holes with one and drivescrews with the other without the fussof changing bits.

Although twist bits win the popularitycontest in most shops, you can achievesplinter-free results, greater accuracy,and more versatility with the fourchoices shown at right. Note, too, thatto maximize control, the larger the bit,the slower the speed.

vary, McFeely's, -7937, or mcfeelys.com).

Troubleshooting problemsUnintentionally angled holes. To err is human, andnothing proves the point more than when trying todrill a hole at a right angle into a workpiece with ahandheld drill. You can, however, reach perfectionwith a handheld drill using these two strategies. Thesimple shop-made iig (Photo A) offers a clear view ofthe hole location while guiding the bit through thevertical hole in the iig's center. (You may need a drillpress to drill the 90" guide hole through the jig.)Or, buy an inexpensive adiustable drill guide (photoB)(no. DG-3637, about $53 at McFeely's). Attached tothe chuck, it lets you drill 90o or angled holes and,stopped holes, as well as centered holes in dowels andboard edges (Photos A and C). Just be sure to have a firmgrip on the guide's handle before aligning the bitand drilling holes.

Break-out. There's not a single good thing you cansay about splinters. They're a thorn in a wood-worker's...let's not go there. Speaking of backsides,backing a planned drill hole proves an effective deter-rent here. To stop break-out both where the bit entersand exits, make a sandwich using scrap (photo D).

Inconristent hole depthr, Many people use maskingtape to achieve repeatable-depth holes in wood.And although this puts you in the ballpark, it doesn'tknock it out of the park if your goal is dead-onaccuracy. Unfortunately, masking tape slips. Your bestbet: no-mar stop collars (Photo E). (Order 908-298, setof 6,Ye"-V2", about $22 Woodworker's Supply, 800-645-9292, or woodworker.com.) These accessories secure tothe bit using an Allen wrench. A polymer boot at thebase of the stainless-steel collar prevents burning orburnishing the wood.

Bit clogglng, Drilling deep holes often causes saw-dust to iam the channels in a brad-point or twist bit.Carefully dig the dust iam out with a nail tip to avoidburning and polishing the hole sides, which makesthem less than ideal for gluing plugs or dowels. I

Written by flm Harrold with Kevln Boyle and feff Mertz

woodmagazine.com 121

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"Cheap"woodworkersmi les wh i led reamingup moremoney-savingschemes .

Proper ly storedlumber p roves easy toloca te when you needi t t hanks to l abe l i ng o fspec ies , d imens ions ,and board foo tageon one edge o f eachboard .Inexpensive

plastic ki tchencontainershold screwsand hardware.

Walletremainssecure lyin pocket.

S a n d i n gd r u m k i tge ts doub leduty f romd r i l l p r e s s .

Bench top d r i l lpress of fersenough capac i t yfor most jobs.

Inexpens ivebrackets /^\\provrc le securelumber s to rage .

Por tab le p laner shavesdown lumber cos ts bya l l ow ing you to buymore economica lrough-sawn s tockand sur faceit yourself .

Shopvacuumprovideslow-buckdust p ickup.

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Low-costscrapwoods tand suppor tsthe p laner .

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o t t v i i t t c c l t l t . t t r o t t I r . t r t ' t o s p t ' l t i l

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g a c l g ; c t s ; t n c l s l t o l r 1 ' t t t . t t i s l t r n g s t o

g c t g r t l t t l t s t r l t s / I I t i n l ' i t ! : r ' , l l t ' l t

\ ' ( ) L l n r i l k c s i l , r l t c l r o i c t ' s , r ' . l n

o t t t l i t r o t t t ' s l t o l t o n . t s l t o t ' s r , q t ' t .

I l t e s c c t ' t ' t : l l L r r , , r ' l l t I r r ) r ' . , i t t l t t ' t t

v o L t t t c c r l i t , , t n r l r l o n t \ l ) r ' l l ( r r n ( ) n ( ' \ ( ) l t

i l l l t c c e s s i t r r ' l t t r t t t ' i t s . I , t k t ' , t l o o l ' . t t l i

i ) l ' o ' s n ' o o r l r v o r l i i n g s l r o p i I r o L r r r l t n t

p loo f . l l r c r t ' , cvc f v too l I r . r s to c i r l n i t s

l t 'cp. l { t 'ar i on to st ' t ' l rorr r otr ( 'a l ' r nr i l l \ r '

\ ' ( ) i l f s d o t l t c s a n l r , i t n c l I r o r r t o s r l r r t ' t ' z t '

t l t t r r r o s t i r o r t t c v r r ' \ t t ' r t t r r i t I r o L r t

s c r i r n p i n , q o n t l L r , t l i t t .

1 2 2

Two 24" -w ide ,30" -ta l l wa l l cab ine tsplaced back to backcreate a tool basewith storage.

\ \ 'oor l r r or l . t ' r ' s o1 ' t t 'n r lc I t i t t t rv l t rc l t t t io lst o l r r r r r vhcn s t ' t t i ng r rp s l r o l t . i l c r t ' s o t t rt i r l \ r o l r p r i o r i t r z i i r g \ o L l r ' [ ) u r c ' l r . t s c s . I l t cl i s t i n c l r r t l t s s t , r t i o n l i r v r n r t c l r i n c s , l t o t ' -t . r l r l r t o o l s , . r r r t l o t l r t ' r c s s r r r t i . t l s . t \ \ ' t " l l. l \ \ L l I l r c \ ou i r I r t ' , t t l v l r . t v c t ' o r t ' t n to t t t r t o l ss r r c l r a s r t c o r r l l c s s r l r i l l , . t i i g s i t t r , i t t i c l , ts l r op v l t c r - l L l n t . )

Anchor your shop wi th a tab lesaw.' l

l r i s r c r s . t i i l c t o o l s i l s i t t t l t t ' l t t ' . t t t o tn r o s t s l r o p s . I t r i p s a n r l c r o s s c r r I s , t l ; t r l o t s ,r i r l r l r c t s , c r r t s t r nons , . t n t l t l o t ' s t t t L t c l tn l ( ) r ' ( ' . l i t ' r ' i t t t s t t l t i : i : \ ( ) L l r L ( ) l ' r ' t oo l ,

Portable benchoffers versatileworkspace.

i r r r cs t . r l ' c r r l r r rc '1 .s . St . t r l t tv i tv l t 'o t t i t t l i r , t -I o r r ' - r nc l I r r nc l r t op \ a \ \ ' s ( 1 t r i t ' c c l l l ' ( ) l t t. r l r o r r t S 1 0 0 t o 5 2 ( X ) ) . i l t c r ' o t f c l l i t t l c

l )o \ \ 'c r or ' prcc i s ion.. \ t r i r i r i i n rL r r t t , l t r r r ' , t l t , t s i c t ' t t n t r . t t ' t o t . s i r l t '

s i l \ \ ' o r ' . r i r ig l r -c t tc l l tcnc l t tOi t t t lOc l t l iOt '

S-l(X) to 5700. I ' l r tr of l 'c ' t ' r t . tsolt i l l ) lc l)o\\ ' (- ' r 'l r nci , tcctt nic'r , . t nt l . lcccl)t i tc 'ctssorics.

I r p t l r t ' a n t c t o . r r x r n t l S 1 , 0 (X ) , i t n t l\ oL l ' r c i t r C i t l t i nc t - s . t t r c0 t t t l l r r ' , ( ) l ) l ) o . \ i l (

I o1 t . ( ) r , l i r r t l r a t \ i l l n t n to l l c \ , gc t i t

c r ; n t r i t c t o r ' ' s sa \ \ t r l i r i pp t ' t l r l i t l t . t 1 .5 - l t 1 l ,l2O/2-10-r o l t nro tor ' , unc l i l . ) r ( r " l . t ' t t t t ' .. \ s . r r r r r r c i t l r c r o l ' t l r c sc c ' i t t cgo r i t ' s t t t . i r l t ct l t t ' on l v on t ' i ' o t t ' l I t r t t ' l r t t r .

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Best -Ever Home Shop ldeas 2009

Tablesaw bargainsabound at several pricelevels. As an example,less than 51,000 buysthis Grizzly Gl0235L,a saw we've testedand admire. l t has a240-volt,3-hp motor,an accurate fence, andcast-iron wings.

An accurate rip fence is worth itsweight in gold, so make sure you get agood one.

When you set your saw budget, allowat least $50 for a high-quality 40- to 60-tooth combination blade. Doing thismeans you won't sacrifice wood to chip-out and burns.

After you get that saw, sink a router-table insert into its extension table. Bydoing this, you eliminate the cost of aseparate stand, and save floor space. Youcan even get double duty from yourtablesaw rip fence by building a slip-onrouter-table fence.

y'ult-base routers play many roles.The router is one of the most versatileshop tools. And today, you get morerouter for your money than ever, asshown below.

A router is useless alone, of course, butyou can buy bits in batches to savemoney. If you use a bargain-price bitenough to wear it out, replace it witha higher-dollar version that will yieldlonger service.

y'euy out for layout tools.You can only cut as accurately as youmark, so devote a few dollars to good-

5175 to 5250 buys a full-featured router withmultiple bases (fixed, plunge, and, in somekits, a D-handle base). Table-mount one base,and use the others for freehand work. Add abargain bit set-this 66-piece pack costs lessthan S200-and you're ready to rout.

woodmagazine.com

You can tackle most layout chores with a tapemeasure, combination square,6" steel rule,compass, and a mechanical pencil. To handletougher tasks, add a sliding bevel gauge,caliper, protractor, and a 45o triangle.

quality measuring and marking tools.Many elaborate gadgets exist, but skipthem. The few basics, above, will suffice.

y'Worl<out a worksurface.Now that you can transform lumberinto project parts, you need a place towork with them. A full-blown cabinet-maker's bench would be ideal, but youcan do a lot with a folding work station;a solid-core door thrown on sawhorses;or a simple shop-built bench, such asthe one shown below.

A workbench must be flat, sturdy, and stable.To make yours more useful, incorporate avise and bench-dog holes that ease holdingchores. Purchase plans for this easy-to-buildbench at woodmagazine.com/workbench.

y'e"ta grip on good clamps.A woodworker can never have enoughclamps, but just a few will get youstarted. Bar or pipe clamps still rulefor versatility, and are the favorite forgluing panels. Build an inexpensive butexpandable set by getting a half dozenpipe-clamp heads, plus some 24" sec-tions of pipe and pipe couplers. Thatway, you can arrange the clamps'lengths to suit your needs.

One-handed clamps are handy, too,so augment your collection with a few

of these in the 12'-24' range. As yourbudget allows, pick up more clamps tofill your set.

y'suil into smooth sanding.If you can only have one sander in yourshop, make it a random-orbit model,right. Fit it with coarse paperto remove stock ury.11,_

{sively, and with fine-gritpaper to leave smooth,scratch-free finishes. Youcan pick one up for aslitt le as $35.

The pad on a random-orbitsander rotates and moves inan orbital motion to blendthe scratches into a hard-to-see pattern.

l/ndrill press Gomes next.Modern hand drills are wonders ofpower and versatility, but for ultimateaccuracy and control, you need a drillpress. For 90 percent of proiects, a bench-top model will do, which can save $100 ormore over buying a floor model.

Devote those savings to a set of twistbits, imported Forstner-style bits, anda sanding drum kit. You can even get amortising attachment that bolts onwhen you need it.

y'next pointer, get a jointer.You may think you need a jointer, below,only if you purchase rough stock. Oryou might be tempted to buy one ofthose gadgets that's supposed to jointedges using your router. But a jointer isno luxury item. With one you canremove saw-blade burn marks, dressedges for perfect glue-ups, and, on manymodels, cut rabbets. Most important,though, a jointer is the only tool that canreliably flatten the face of a board.

Even if you don't take full advantage of ajointer's abil it ies, you'l l appreciate howquickly it prepares boards for perfect rippingand gap-free glue-ups.

Sti l l ready to spend? Nowconsider these'contendersWith the tools on the previous pages,plus your jigsaw and drill, you have allyou need to build most projects. Eventu-ally, though, you'll want two additionalpower tools.

y'nunfor a ptaner.A planer, below, saves money on lumberbecause you can buy rough-sawn boards,then mill them to finished dimension.Plus, owning one allows you to workwith lumber thicknesses unavailable atyour home center.

Be aware that a planer will create ahuge mess of flying chips. Some newermodels offer built-in chip collectorsthat will save you the expense of invest-ing in a dust collector unti l your shopbudget allows for it.

A portable planer offers ample power andenough width capaci ty (usual ly 12-13") tohandle allof your lumber-surfacing needs.This modelcol lects i ts own chips in a bag.

€No*, bring on a bandsaw.Not all woodworking involves makingstraight cuts. A handheld j igsaw can

' negotiate many curves, but, eventually,you'l l want a bandsaw, below. In ouropinion, a 74" model offers the mostbang for your buck to handle home-shop needs.

A bandsaw shines at cutt ing curves, and canalso r ip, resary cut circles, and even mil l short,small-diameter logs into lumber.

124

with all of thesetools and machines onhand, you'll be set formost tasks. Now, youcan add specializedtools as your budgetpermits and projectsrequire. Read "Thenext wave i' right, to seewhat you may want topurchase next.

Time to getOrganizedGetting the most fromany workshop requireskeeping it clean bycreating places to stashall your stuff. But don'tassume that storage has

Hand tools:Bench chiselsBlock p laneDead-blow malletJapanese-style

handsawCabinet scraper

Portable power tools:Biscuit joinerBel t sander

Stationary tools:Dust col lector and air f i l terCompound mitersawBelt/disc sanderOsc i l la t ing sp ind le sanderScrol lsawLathe

Accessories:Mobile tool bases'Roller stand/outfeed support

Obviously, many more tools and accessories exist to make yourwoodworking easier, faster, and more refined. Aftersecuring the tools covered in this article, buy these next:

Handheld circular saw Pocket-hole j igSecond router Dovetai l j ig

Mark ing gauge

to be fancy or costly to be effective. Try These short stacks prove easy to sortthese pointers. through when you need a board, espe-

cially if you mark the stacks (page 122).

y'srrornge up some cabinets.You can create great storage withoutspending a dime if you keep your eyesopen for discarded kitchen cabinets.Neighbors, friends, and contractorsworking on a remodeling project areoften happy to get rid of them.

Once you get the cabinets in theshop, use them creatively. The drillpress in the photo on page 722, forexample, sits on two wall cabinets.They position the drill press at workingheight and provide about 8 cubic feetof enclosed, dust-free storage. Kitchenbase cabinets serve well as workbenchbases in the shop.

Make the cabinets more functionalfor shop use by building in cubbies orextra shelving, or adding perforatedhardboard to the insides of the doors.Throw on a coat of gloss paint to lenda finished appearance to tattered ormismatched cabinets.

l/f..pyour lumber in line.Lumber leaned against walls or stackedunderfoot quickly becomes disorga-nized or falls victim to damage. Storethose boards right by mounting simplemetal shelf brackets, as shown on page122. (We purchased ours at a hardwarestore for a meager 75 cents each.) Eachshelf wil l easily support six to eightboards. Use four or f ive metal brack-ets-screwed into the wall studs-foreach shelf, and space the shelves about8" apart. Finally, lay, particleboardover the brackets.

lVlore ways to squef;ze thsnr$$t frem yonr budget

€suue some coin on clamps.Want to reduce your need for clamps?Try securing glued-up assemblies witha few air-nailed brads, below.

You can get a compressor and bradnailer kit for under $200, the price of justa few decent-quality bar clamps. If youalready have a compressor, the invest-ment for a nailer may be as little as $40.

A pneumatic air nai ler drives a brad intojoints without spl i t t ing the wood, and holdsthe assembly while the glue sets.

y'naa lumber purchasing power.Buying lumber doesn't qualify, strictlyspeaking, as part of shop setup. Butbuilding anything in a shop provespretty tough without boards. Why notmake them less expensive by purchasingin lots of 100, 25O, or even 500 boardfeet? Pros do it, and so can you, by get-ting a group of friends or club memberstogether. You may be able to mix speciesand still earn discounts. liWritten by David Stone


it

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from the editors or W00ll'ragazine

Entry-AreaBench & Shelf

Phn qP 0Q0e_$5.e5

Home/Shop Mission BookcaseStorage Cart plan Dp-00563 $8.95

Plan DP-00561a $6.95

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Arb & Grafts BookcasePlan DP-00080 $10.95

/a|l$JpF'

p.- F"

Entertainment GenterPlan DP-00092 $9.95

All-in-orderStorage Bins

Plan DP-00558a $5.95

Fantastic Futon Bed Futon TablePlan DP-00025 $8.95 Ptan Dp-00026 $8.95

Heirloom Hope GhestPlan DP-00190 $7.9S

HideawayComputer Desk

Plan DP-00192 $9.9b

Gompact Towering TomesEntertainment Genter BookcasePlan DP-00474 $9.95 Ptan Dp-0010S $8.9S

Country-fresh BedPlan DP-00081 $8.95

County-fresh Dresser Five-Drawer ChestPlan DP-00008 $8.95 plan Dp-00010 $8.95

Eight-Drawer DresserPlan DP-00172 $9.95

China CabinetPlan DP-00502 $12.95

Armoire/TU Stackable BinsEntertainment Center plan Dp-00547a g3.ZSPlan DP-00171 $9.95rumru

Mission Bed Mission Dresser Mission Blanket GhestPlan DP-00424 $9.95 ptan Dp-002t40 $9.95 ptan Dp-00446 $s.95

3-in-1 Bed for AllAges Wine CabinetPlan DP-00524 $9.9b ptan Dp-00517 $S.9S

Download any of these woodwolking plans for the prices listed, or view a targer image, at uruoffrnagnzlna.iln/dantTo have paper prans maired direcfly ro you (add $3 per ptan s+tt;, catt lur[fioo togg&o-{a7s

Heirloom BookcasePlan DP-00513 $11.95

Shelves for ShowPlan DP-00540 $8.95

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ll'ffif II [*"J" I

@Heirloom Gorner

CabinetPlan DP-00527 $9.95

I i-lI t4t l,'lI ,i- -' ' -:- -.I

-Ghimney Cupboard

Plan DP-00494 $7.95

Mission Nighbtand Gedar-linedPlan DP-00433 $7.9S Btanket Ghest

Plan DP-00534 $7.95

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Please have your credit card available.BEHSIOg

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bnhd$

You don't need to be rich to outfit a smart shop-you iust need toshop smart. Here are 14 money-saving strategies to help you get the mostbang (and whirr, and hummm, and buzzz) for your tool-buying buck.

Recognize good deals

a Do your research before you buy.I Watch Sunday newspaper ads,

study tool catalogs, and make mentalnotes as you peruse tool stores andhome centers so you can identify a realbargain when it comes along. Don't befooled by comparisons to "list prices,"which are sometimes as much as twicethe normal sell ing price. And havepatience: Today's gotta-have gadget

1 2 6

may be a why-bother tool next year.You also may find that the price ofa newly introduced tool drops afterthe newness has worn off or whenthe manufacturer replaces it with anupdated model.

AOpt for mult i funct ion tools or&bonus accessories. A dril l press thatcomes with a mortising attachment,for example, will save you from buyinga dedicated mortiser, at least for a

while; likewise, a tablesaw that comeswith a high-quality blade. A hammerdrill can be used for ordinary drilling,too, and doesn't cost much morethan a non-hammer dril l . Some wise-buy tools do more than one job equallywell. For instance, Shop Fox (shopfox.biz) sells a benchtop dril l press thatdoubles as an oscil lating spindlesander; Ridgid's (ridgid.com) edge-belt/spindle sander works equally well onboth flat and curved edges.

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Q Check mail-order sources. Because they lack a dis-Jtributor network, manufacturers that sell directlyto consumers usually can offer tools at lower prices. Butmake sure you're dealing with a reputable firm. Somecompanies, such as Grizzly (grizzly.com), will provideyou with customer references upon request.

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ABuy the best you can atford, andttthe cheapest you can find. You'llonly cry once when you buy a top-gradetool. On the other hand, a cheaply builttool may not cut or hold its accuracywell, and your ioy over the initial sav-ings may give way to tears of frustrationeach time you use it.

But be realistic-you don't alwaysneed to buy the best. If you think apneumatic brad nailer will come inhandy, purchase a$2O model, and use itup. Even if it lasts for only a handful ofprojects, you can buy five inexpensivebrad nailers before you outspend a$100 nailer.

( Replace the tool, not iust the bat-Jtery. The first thing to fail on mostcordless tools is the battery, but a pair ofnew batteries can set you back almost asmuch as a new tool. And that new modelmay have more features or higher volt-age, so it's like a low-cost upgrade.

That strategy doesn't apply to cordlesskits with several tools sharing one or twobattery packs; but you can economizehere as well. Before you buy such a kit,consider the voltage and style that fits allthe cordless tools you may eventuallvwant to buv.

')tt

Must you buy new?

tVuy reconditioned tools with a fulllfwarranty. Manufacturers can't sellreturned tools as nery even if they'reunused but lacking their original pack-aging. So, if necessary, they replace anybad or broken parts with new ones,repackage the tool, and then resell it as"reconditioned." You risk little becausemanufacturers typically honor the fullfactory warranty on these tools, andunlike new-in-the-box tools, recons geta complete and thorough test at theservice center before they're repackagedand resold.

lfind a demo. An exhibitor at af woodworking show will sometimessell a stationary tool off the show floor,rather than pay to ship it back. Askwhether you can take it off his or herhands for a discounted price when theshow is over. You may get a good dealon a tool that's already assembled, andsave shipping costs. Also, watch for spe-cial scratch-and-dent and tent salesfrom some manufacturers. In manycases, the damage is cosmetic, and youcan pick up a perfectly functioning toolat a deep discount.

woodmagazine.com

QBuy f rom a private owner. your local, {Onewspaper classified advertising sec-, tion is a good source for used tools., Besides scanning the "Tools" classifica-i tion, pore over the garage sales and auc-: tion notices. Often, sellers don't know; (or don't care) what they have and, underestimate its value. Beware of, buying used power tools from pawn

shops, though: Sometimes these tool'sare overpriced for their quality andcondition. Don't overlook search meth-ods of finding online used tools-classifieds, such as those at WOODOnline@ ( r,r,o o cl r r r a g.t z i r r c. ct I r n / c I a s s i t i ecl s),Craig's List (craigslist.com), andvirtual shop-tool auctions such as eBay(ebay.com).

1 2 7

After moving cars outside, this homeowner rolls out cabinets to forma worksurface in his garage. To learn more, see page 22.

From'okry' to'wow!'1f, few months ago, I spent a good portion of

AH'.'l'lf,i::l'#::TT"::??,xl,l"T;i:*

Better Homes and Gardenso

Best-EverHome Shop ldeas 2009woodmagazine.com

Editor-in-Chief BILL KRTERManaging Editor MARIEN KEMMETDeputy Editor DAVE CAMPBELLPublication Writer CARL VOSSTechniques Editor BOB WTLSONTool & Techniques Editor BOB HUNTERMultimedia Editor LUCAS PETERSMultimedia Editor CRA|G RUEGSEGGERProject Editor LARRY IOHNSTONSenior Design Editor KEVIN BOYLEDesign Editor fEFF MERTZProduction/Office Manager MARGARET CLOSNERAdministrative Assistant SHERYL MUNYONPhotographers MARTY BALDW|N, fASON DONNEtty,DEAN SCHOEPPNER, IAY WTLDEContributing ll lustrators TtM CAHtLI- LORNA fOHNSON,ROXANNE LeMOINEContributing Crafuman llM HEAVEYContributing Proofreader lRA LACHER

ArtDirector rnnlrnlFProject Art Director IOHN GEARHEARTAssociate Art Director GREG SETLERSAssistant Art Director CHERYL A. CTBULA

SUBSCRIBER SERVICE Go to wosdmagazine.com/helpor write to WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439,Boone, lA 50037-0439

Publisher MARK L. HAGEN

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING

CHICACO: 333 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1500,Chicago, lL 60501Marketing Manager AMANDA SALHOOTAdvertising Manager fACK CHRISTTANSENAccount Executive RYAN INTERLANDDirect Response Advertising RepresentativeLISA GREENWOODAssistants GAYLE CHEf N, NtA WTLUAMSATLANTA: Navigate MediaDETROIT: RPM Associates

Business Manager fEFF STILESAssociate Consumer Marketing Director DAN HOIIANDAssociate Director of Marketing-Newsstand TOM DEERINGProduction Manager SANDY WtLL|AMSAdvertising Operations Manager llM NELSONE-Commerce Manager MATT SNYDER

VicePrerident/Crorffi

MEREDITH PUBLISHINGffiPresident fACK cRlFFlNExecutive Vice President DOUG OTSONChief Revenue Officer TOM HARTYFinance & Administration M|KE RIGGSManufacturing BRUCE HESTONConsumer Marketing DAVID BALICorporate Sales MICHAEL BROWNSTETNMeredith 360" fACK BAMBERGERlnteractive Media LAUREN WTENERCorporate Marketing NANCY WEBERResearch BRITTA WAREChief Technology Officer T|NA STETLNew Media Marketing Services ANDY WILSON/tUlerdtlh

I conpo"o 'o"

of a week2Yz-cat

garage into an incredible car buff,s backyard escape.(For a closer look at the shop, see page 36.)

What a difference five days made. And believe me, the'wow'factor doesn't fade: A revisit months later still tookaway my breath when the garage door rolled ,rp. But whowouldn't be green with envy gazing at a sparkling epoxyfloor? No oil stains would dare linger!

That garage iS a multitask space designed and organizedas many of us imagine our shops. Car-care products, previ--ously shuffled around in cardboard boxes, are now neatlyorganized behind a pair of doors. The adioining cabinetholds a season's worth of yard and garden remedies. paint-brushes and hand tools, neatly lined up like soldiers, beg tobe picked up from smooth-rolling drawers.

The recent visit to the shop gave me pause. No moreexcuses: I got the iolt to iump-start and overhaul my ownshop. I referred to the planning articles in this issue to leadme every step along the way.

, How 'bout you? Just picking up this magazine affirmsthat there's a garage or shop redo on the horizon at yourhome. So get going! Break the work into bite-size tasks, andyou'll be there quicker than you think.

fn^X^fuMarlen KemmetWOOD@ Magazine Managing Editor

President and Chief Executive Officer STEPHEN M. LACYChuir.un of th"

ln n4"-or@Copyright V"r U.S.n.Retail Sales Retailers can order copies of WOOD for resaleby e-mailing [email protected] - ,/\r-'t tf tdE \

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I n 2007, we published the first! issue of Home Shop ldeas, andIfrom your letters and e-mails, itappears you loved it. You're holding issue 2.

NoW we'd like to know how you used our ideas,or your own, to create or upgrade your own home shop. We're onthe lookout for all types of shops: basements, garages,outbuildings, small spaces, and even garden-shed shops.

Besides searching for great-looking shops, we're also looking forprojects, organizers, storage cabinets, or workbenches you've createdfor your shop.

lf you'd like your shop, or a friend's, to be considered for national expo-sure in one of our magazines, send us some photos and a short write-upof what you did to make your shop look better and work harder. lf you'vegot some "before" and "after" photos, those would be excellent, too!

Send your submissions to:Home Shop ldeasWOODo Magozinel7l6 Locust Street, LS-221Des Moinel lA 50309-3023

Or e-mail your submissions to [email protected] deadline is June 1, 2009. Submissions cannot be returned.Please include your daytime telephone number, mailing address, ande-mail address, if you have one.

Pinnacle@Drill Press Table1 48369

Pinnacle is defined by Webster's as the highest point of development or achievement.The latest offering of

drill press table systems and a variety of accessories that bear the Pinnacle@ name have cerlainly lived up

to this definition. Every detail of these Pinnacle@ tools was engineered with one thing in mind: to provide

woodworkers with tools that empower them. Pinnacle@ tools are available exclusively at Woodcraft.

Documents

Wood Special - Best Ever Home Shop Ideas 2009 (Malestrom)