Wool Sourcebook

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Text of Wool Sourcebook

  • WOOL.

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  • WOOL.

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  • Holland and Sherry began with wool. From our earliest days

    as a purveyor of suiting material to the menswear industry

    of Londons Savile Row, our name has been synonymous with

    the finest in woolen cloth. This legacy expanded and evolved

    when our brand moved to Peebles, Scotland over a century

    ago. The focus on quality was sharpened and the collection

    refined. Today our offerings of interiors fabrics include more

    than 1200 products made from the worlds highest-quality

    merino wool. The drape, the hand, the sheen, and the sheer

    richness of our wools are unparalleled. From classic Scottish

    tweeds to sumptuous wool solids produced at proprietary

    mills, the collection has evolved to compliment all styles of

    design and application. Particularly noteworthy are our

    mlange wools, in which as many as eight fiber colors are

    individually dyed and spun together to create fabric with a

    depth of color unlike anything of its kind.

    Within these pages, you will find a guide

    to our complete wool product line.

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  • TABLE OF CONTENTS

    6 .................................................................................... INTRODUCTION9-12 .................................................................................... GLOSSARY OF TERMS14 ................................................................................... ABOUT OUR MILL15-22 ................................................................................... Patagonia23-24 ................................................................................... Ropa25-28 ................................................................................... Elie29-36 ................................................................................... Andes37-42 ................................................................................... Glace43-46 ................................................................................... Hielo47-54 ................................................................................... Kensington55-58 ................................................................................... Rambouillet59-62 ................................................................................... Bespoke Twill63-66 ................................................................................... Chamonix67-70 ................................................................................... Atacama71-74 ................................................................................... Palomo75-78 ................................................................................... Tacora79-80 ................................................................................... Pica81-86 ................................................................................... County Tweed87-88 ................................................................................... Savile Row | Check89-90 ................................................................................... Savile Row | Windowpane91-92 ................................................................................... Savile Row | Chalk Stripe93-94 ................................................................................... Savile Row | Glen Plaid95-96 ................................................................................... Savile Row | Prince of Wales97-100 .................................................................................. Savile Row | Westminster Houndstooth101-104 .................................................................................. Savile Row | Windsor Tweed105-108 .................................................................................. Dandy I | Beau109-110 .................................................................................. Dandy I | Brummell111-112 .................................................................................. Dandy I | Baudelaire113-114 .................................................................................. Dandy I | Gallant115-118 .................................................................................. Dandy I | Wilde119-120 .................................................................................. Stout Dandy | Mayfair121-122 .................................................................................. Stout Dandy | Thames122 .................................................................................. Stout Dandy | Berkshire123-126 .................................................................................. Dandy II | Quaintrelle127-130 .................................................................................. Dandy II | Modern Gent131-132 .................................................................................. Dandy II | Dashing Stripe133-134 .................................................................................. Printed Wools | Giacomo135-136 .................................................................................. Printed Wools | Pietro137-138 .................................................................................. Printed Wools | Cirella139-140 .................................................................................. Printed Wools | Lorica141-142 .................................................................................. Printed Wools | Coletta143-144 .................................................................................. Printed Wools | Tirreno145-146 .................................................................................. Isles147-148 .................................................................................. Whitehall149-152 .................................................................................. Merino153-154 .................................................................................. Brunswick155-158 .................................................................................. Tartans159-162 .................................................................................. Quilted Wools163-170 .................................................................................. Wool Sheers

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  • WOOL FABRIC GLOSSARY

    Boucl the yarn and fabric characterized by a soft looping effect, named after the French word for curl

    Carding a process in wool spinning that disentangles and opens the fiber and removes vegetable matter; this proceeds yarn spinning and twistingCashmere the fiber derived from the cashmere goat, which is found principally on the cold and dry highlands of Central Asia. The low bulk, high loft fibers make cashmere cloths luxurious with a soft and seductive handle and beautiful drape.

    Chenille a yarn or fabric with a soft, fuzzy, surface effect, whose name is derived from the French word for caterpillar

    Combing a process in yarn spinning that removes short fibers and straightens and orients the fiber in a parallel direction; this process is part of the worsted spinning system

    Crimp the natural wavy character of the wool fiber

    Dobby a weaving system or loom with shafts or harnesses to raise and lower the warp yarns, which interlace with the weft yarns to create woven fabric; fabrics created on the dobby loom include plain cloth, stripes, plaids and textures

    Dye to add color to fiber, yarn or fabric, in a process requiring dye powders, water, heat and agitation

    Ewe an adult female sheep

    Felt the process of interlocking and condensing wool fibers together to create a fabric; felting can be used to create a non-woven or woven fabric; Holland & Sherrys wool felt cloth is a woven felt

    Filament a continuous fiber; filament fibers can be natural such as silk, or made from a variety of synthetic or man-made materials such as polyester, nylon, rayon, etc

    Finishing a range of processes designed to enhance the handle, appearance and performance of fabrics by means of chemical and/or mechanical treatments. Finishing is an integral step in the manufacture of all woven products; how well it is done dramatically impacts upon the handle, appearance and wear performance of the fabric. In woven fabrics, finishing aims to relax and stabilize strains within the fabric that are introduced during spinning and weaving and remove any residual dirt, lubricants and waxes through washing

    Flannel a woven fabric that is characterized by a soft appearance and handle; the milled finish creates a napped surface that gives a flannel its unique characteristics; flannel cloths are used for suiting, trousers, womens wear, jackets, coatings and interior fabrics

    Fleece sheeps wool in the grease state

    Handle the touch or feel of a wool fabric

    Herringbone a combination of twill weaves in which the direction of the twill is reversed to produce stripes resembling the skeleton of a herring fish; it has a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern and is usually woven in wool. It is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear; tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern

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  • Hopsack a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads are woven together as one in the warp or weft, or both; the simplest and most common of these is 2/2 hopsack, with two warp