Yearbook/Dreambook

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Icapped off an incredible year of travel with a visit to a place that many still imagine is a war zone: Nicaragua. The war ended twenty years

ago but the Contra conspiracies are so ingrained in our perceptions that a seasoned Washington insider sent me an email before I left, say-ing “Have fun in Nicaragua. That sounds like an oxymoron.” I did have fun. It is a gorgeous country with jungle, volcanoes, lovely colonial towns, pristine coastline and warm, welcoming people. But even more than fun I felt a sense of discovery and—even rarer—of inspiration, because the country is on the cusp of making smart, sustainable tourism a reality.

One man, Carlos Pellas, who is fifth genera-tion Nicaraguan has used his wealth (from sugar, rum, banking and more) and his savvy (he received his BA and MBA from Stanford) to plant the seeds for the best kind of tourism boom possible: one that will be low impact on the environment and long term for the com-munity benefits. He has started with a stunning small resort on the Pacific Coast called Mukul, but the impact of his vision can already be seen in the neighboring communities which supply almost all of the employees. I was so impressed by his commitment that I plan to return with our first family volunteerism trip this July.

I will begin 2014 with a member trip to Myanmar (or Burma), where the U.S. just re-cently ended economic sanctions. The

country has long been high on my list of places to visit. It is still a primitive place that has been shielded from the west and its globalization for decades, and I want to see it before the cruise ship crowds and bus loads of tourists invade its temple fields. Going early means that things will not run like clockwork but, in this case, that is fine by me and those joining me.

When I first went to central America in the early 1990s, I met Navy SEALS in Honduras who didn’t discuss their work but were certainly working with the Contras. The region was one of revolution, with CIA operatives cooling off in the bars and in the hotel swimming pools. To-day, the Sandanista revolutionary and poet Dan-iel Ortega is again the president of Nicaragua. His rhetoric is still socialist but he is no longer at war with the U.S. as he was in the ’8os.

As we enter a new year, I find hope in these two examples of progress toward peace. Things are far from ideal in either of these countries but they are remarkably improved, most im-portantly for their populations, than they were twenty years ago when war raged or a military dictatorship imprisoned its critics. Travel comes when things improve and then can often speed the progress along. Maybe in 2015 we can plan trips to Syria, Iran or the Congo. I will hope so.

on my mind

Where I Want to Go...

From left: Mukul, Nicaragua; Bagan, Myanmar

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2 On My Mind Yearbook/Dreambook

4-7 Spotlight Indagare Adored 2012

8-9 Family Great Itineraries: Iconic Italy

10-13 Hotel Debuts Best Newcomers 2012

14-15 Escape Great Itineraries: South Africa

16-19 Photo Portfolio Where in the World...

20-21 Escape Great Itineraries: South America

22-23 Spotlight Looking Forward 2013

24-25 Escape Morocco Party

26-27 Round the World Global Citizens

28-31 Escape: Fiji

32-37 Style: Berlin

38-41 Adventure: Myanmar

42-47 Book: See the World Beautiful

48-51 Escape: Tuscany

AboutIndagareIndagare comes from the Latin word that means to

seek, scout, discover. Indagare Travel is a high-end travel company with robust online editorial content and a boutique in-house travel agency. We travel, we write, and we plan memorable journeys for our members. To learn about our travel community, visit www.indagare.com or call 212-988-2611. Annual membership rates begin at $325.

BookingsAt Indagare you can research ideas for a trip on

our site and consult with a specialist on the phone or by email to create, refine or expand your itinerary. Our Bookings Team can help you with something as simple as a hotel room or as complex as creating a multi-stop itinerary. We also have special rates and amenities at hundreds of properties. Call 212-988-2611 or email bookings@indagare.com.

InsiderTripsInsider Trips are special journeys designed exclu-

sively for Indagare members. With their insider access, mapped-out itineraries and exciting immersion in far-flung destinations, the trips offer members a rich and rewarding way to explore the world. Upcoming destinations include India, Cuba and Myanmar. For more information, call 646-963-2242 or email info@indagare.com.

The World of Indagare

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Indagare Plus Members who book through Indagare receive preferential rates and/or special amenities at the properties with the Indagare Plus symbol.

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spotlight

We launched the Indagare Adored list two years ago with ten incredibly special properties—places that defy

categorization but excel at one thing: making guests feel transported. This year, eleven mag-nificent addresses made the cut, ranging from a Vancouver wilderness tented camp and a well-ness hideaway in Bali to a gorgeous boutique hotel in New York City’s SoHo and a stunningly renovated grande dame on the French Riviera. These are the Indagare Adored 2012.

AUSTRIA: HOTEL SACHER WIENAdored For: Family owned, expertly run

and with famous Café Sacher on the premises. In Brief: This legendary hotel, centrally located opposite the State Opera, opened in 1876, and even today its chandelier-lit reception halls and antiques-filled drawing rooms exude old-world

elegance. Most of the cheerful rooms, designed by owner Elisabeth Gürtler, are done in a sumptuous 19th-century style with silk-covered walls and original paintings from the Sacher’s private collection. Café Sacher is located on the ground floor, and a miniature version of the famous Sachertorte is placed on guests’ pillows at turndown. Read Indagare’s Review.

BALI: COMO SHAMBALAAdored For: Bali’s most romantic resort;

a honeymoon must. In Brief: The Como Shambhala estate was designed by architect Cheong Yew Kuan. The twenty-two guesthouses that make up this para-disiacal property are made of local stone, wood and traditional alang-alang roofing. All the vil-las, which are freestanding and divided into five themed groupings — Earth, Air, Fire, Water and

Indagare Adored 2012Eleven special hotels and resorts around the world join the prestigious Indagare Adored, a list that includes our travel community’s most beloved properties.

From left: Sacher Vienna; Clayoquot Wilderness Resort; Como Shambala, Bali (top); Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc (bottom).

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Forest — boast sumptuous communal outdoor living spaces and pools. Rooms showcase Asian antiques as well as beautiful Balinese crafts and contain dreamy four-poster beds with white mosquito netting. Read Indagare’s Review.

CANADA: CLAYOQUOT WILDERNESS RESORTAdored For: The ultimate fantasy camp, set in Vancouver Island’s great outdoors. In Brief: If the beautifully rugged scenery is the prime highlight of a visit to Clayoquot, then a close second is the food celebrating, seasonal ingredients and the property’s stunning loca-tion. Accommodations tucked between trees and connected by elevated boardwalks give the impression of a series of tree houses, but fea-tures like lush linens and thermostat-controlled wood stoves ensure comfort. Activities range

from whale- and bear-watching excursions to pontoon boat journeys, shooting, fishing, hiking, horseback riding and biking trips. Read Indagare’s Review.

FRANCE: HOTEL DU CAP-EDEN ROCAdored For: The perfect mix of old-world glamour and contemporary style.In Brief: This iconic grande dame is set on twenty-two acres of private gardens on the southernmost tip of Cap de Antibes. The stylish interiors feature antique Louis XV and XVI fur-niture, which lend sophistication to an already glorious property. Guests should not miss the saltwater swimming pool that is carved into a seaside rock face; the stairway, diving board and private cabanas are particularly special, with ocean views and the utmost privacy. Read Indagare’s Review.

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HUDSON VALLEY: GLENMEREAdored For: A romantic weekend getaway from New York City with exquisite interiors.In Brief: An ochre Italianate villa in the lower Hudson Valley, Glenmere was commissioned as a grand folly by a Gilded Age titan. The structure highlights its original moldings and wrought-iron railings but has been infused with a modern sensibility. Each of the nineteen rooms and suites has its own decor, with custom Loro Piana curtains and Casa del Bianca linens. Guests rarely leave the grounds during a visit; the resort has a pool, tennis courts, a champion-ship croquet court and a well-equipped fitness center and spa. Read Indagare’s Review.

ITALY: GRAND HOTEL TIMEOAdored For: Authentic Sicilian hideaway full of history and charm.In Brief: Despite a dazzling vista and pedigree, Grand Hotel Timeo has stayed a bit under the radar of sophisticated travelers, and that’s part of its charm. Its trump card is its hilltop perch beside the ruins of the Greek theater in Taormi-na. Boats linger in the bay below, while Mount Etna simmers in the distance. The property

(owned by Orient-Express) has distinguished bones, and the decor strikes just the right note, featuring creams, gold, brocades and Baroque detailing. Read Indagare’s Review.

LOS ANGELES: SHUTTERS ON THE BEACHAdored For: The epitome of laid-back Califor-nia style right on the beach in Santa Monica.In Brief: Set on a choice stretch of the Santa Monica State Beach and a short walk from the famed pier, Shutters has an easy seaside style. The lobby lounge—outfitted with overstuffed couches and phenomenal beach-themed art by artists like Robert Motherwell—is the kind of place where you can have a tête-à-tête or, with sand still in your flip-flops, relax with a glass of Champagne. Rooms have hardwood floors, Ori-ental rugs, four-poster beds and either a small balcony or a terrace. It’s all very L.A. Read Indagare’s Review.

NEW YORK CITY: CROSBY STREET HOTELAdored For: The perfect downtown hotel with chic interiors and even chicer guests. c

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Clockwise from top left: Glenmere, Hudson Valley; Ellerman House, South Africa; Grand Hotel Timeo, Sicily; Singita Grumeti, Tanzania.

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In Brief: The first foray into an American city by U.K. firm Firmdale has been a huge success, thanks to designer Kit Kemp’s inspired vision. The hotel occupies a modern eleven-story build-ing on a relatively quiet side street in SoHo, and each room is different, giving the accom-modations a personal feel. Upper floors have marvelous city views spanning the East Side and down to the Brooklyn Bridge on one side and uptown on the other. The lounge and bar area has become a SoHo hot spot, rivaling even nearby Balthazar for the best breakfast scene. Read Indagare’s Review.

SOUTH AFRICA: ELLERMAN HOUSEAdored For: The most intimate, luxurious perch in Cape Town.In Brief: Its sumptuous eleven guest rooms and location, overlooking Bantry Bay, a small bay between Sea Point and Clifton, are what make the Ellerman House the top choice on Cape Town’s Atlantic coast. But it is the private villas, in particular, that cause jaws to drop with their inspired interiors, impeccable service and pri-vate pool. Many of the restaurant’s ingredients are from the on-property garden. Guests also get a cultural history lesson during a stay: the owner has made the place a showcase for the finest South African art of the past half century. Read Indagare’s Review.

TANZANIA: SINGITA GRUMETI SASAKWAAdored For: Being the most exquisite safari lodge in East Africa. In Brief: Of the three camp options on the Gru-meti Reserves, Sasakwa commands the highest perch, literally and figuratively. The lodge, which consists of one grand main house and ten guest cottages, is set high on a hillside overlook-ing the Serengeti plains. Interiors are opulent, with fabric wall coverings and antiques. One of the secrets to the success of Singita, however, is the relaxed ambiance. Read Indagare’s Review.

THAILAND: FOUR SEASONS TENTED CAMP Adored For: An incredible setting (bamboo forests) and renowned elephant program. In Brief: An almost African-safari sensibility pervades this tented camp, considered part of Thailand’s Golden Triangle. Guests arrive to the splendid natural setting by boat. The property includes just fifteen luxurious canvas bunga-lows, which are hidden amid giant palms. Its elephant-rescue program is considered one of the world’s best, imbuing each stay with a giv-ing back angle. Guests can interact with these gentle giants, as well as sign up for mahout training and elephant trekking.

We Know More: Our small, personal team is constantly traveling, scouting the most relevant, unique and up-to-date recommendations.

We Think More: We are frequent travelers (see page 16), and we pool our knowledge and members’ feedback to tweak the big and small details of your trip.

We Care More: We believe that there’s no such thing as a “best” hotel or destination, and no two journeys should be the same. We cus-tomize all your trips based on your preferences.

We Do More: Think of us as your advocates

who go above and beyond to make sure that each trip is packed with memorable experi-ences and special touches.

We Get More: We are preferred partners of Four Seasons, Orient Express, Rocco Forte and Virtuoso, so we can secure special rates and amenities at hundreds of properties worldwide, including room upgrades, meal and spa credits and VIP treatment.

There is no bookings fee for Indagare members. Contact our Bookings Team for more informa-tion and to reserve. Call 212-988-2611 or email bookings@indagare.com.

Book My Trip: The Indagare Advantage

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itinerary

Clockwise from top: On Capri; Four Seasons Florence; Rome’s Gli Ulivi; in Rome.

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Great Itineraries: Iconic ItalyBesides France, Italy tops the travel lists of many Indagare members who return year after year to explore the country’s riches. Here is an itinerary for families.

As Giuseppe Verdi once said, “You may have the universe if I may have Italy.” One of our favorite combinations for

families is Florence, Siena, Rome and Capri, because it checks so many boxes: city, country, island, culture, food and pampering. It’s what we call in the Indagare office a “slam dunk.” Here’s how a trip might go:

Day 1-2: FlorenceTo begin, it’s easier to fly into Pisa than into Florence, as the airport is bigger. One of our top picks in Florence is the Four Seasons, which is surrounded by beautiful grounds, has a pool, and can offer families connecting rooms. Rise early one morning to climb the Campanile of the Duomo. Later participate in a hands-on fresco workshop, where an expert docent will teach you and your family to make a fresco using traditional materials and techniques. We have a great guide for the Uffizi who can really bring it alive for kids. And if you are there at the right time, we may be able to arrange a visit to the highly exclusive Vasari Corridor, which con-nects the Uffizi with the Palazzo Vecchio and is a fascinating repository of self-portraits.

Day 3-5: Tuscan countrysideFor families in search of the Tuscany of their dreams—emerald hills punctuated by tidy rows of cypresses and vineyards—there is no place better than Castiglion del Bosco (see page 50). Set on 4,500 forested acres between Florence and Rome, it was built as a private estate by the Ferragamo family and offers lavishly appointed villa accommodations and fun activities. While the kids are at a cooking class, enjoy a wine tast-ing or spa treatment or play a few rounds of golf on the eighteen-hole course.

Day 6-9: RomeFrom Castiglion del Bosco, drive south to Rome for a few nights at the Hotel de Russie. One of Indagare’s most coveted special-access expe-riences is what we call “Alone in the Sistine Chapel.” Accompanied by a guide, you and your family will get to view Michelangelo’s master-piece in peace and quiet and privacy, after all the crowds have gone. Some of our members have been moved to tears. Another must is a gladiator lesson or a gelato or pizza making course for kids, which Indagare can arrange.

Day 10-12: Amalfi Coast/CapriAfter so much culture, it’s time for some R&R, so head down to Capri for a great ending — the “dessert” of the trip. Stop on the way at Pompeii and/or Herculaneum, another Roman town cov-ered by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Many find the latter particularly interesting because, due to its location, it was covered more quickly than Pompeii and many of the organic materials were carbonized.

After lunch, board a private boat in Naples for your transfer to Capri. When you arrive, cel-ebrate your first night on the island with dinner at Villa Verde, which feels like a private home, or in the lemon grove at Da Paolino. The next morning, after breakfast at your hotel, board a private boat for a full-day excursion. You won’t need to worry about the insufferable wait at the Blue Grotto, because your captain will take you to gorgeous hidden grottoes far from the madding crowd. On the last day, bid farewell to the Mediterranean aboard a private boat back to Naples for your flight home.

Contact Indagare’s Bookings Team to plan many other Italy trips, including Venice, Sicily and the Dolomites.c

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hotel debuts 2012

Aman DebutsThe refined Aman hotel chain has brought its sleek, distinctly Asian aesthetic to such Western hemisphere destinations as Utah and the Turks and Caicos. Lately the brand has expanded its portfolio in Europe, with new properties in Greece and Turkey. Amanzo’e, located in the chic Porto Heli on the Peloponnese peninsula, consists of thirty-eight private residences, each with swimming pools and access to the beach club. Guests fly into Athens and then travel to the resort by car (a two-and-a-half-hour drive), boat or helicopter. Amanruya, in Bodrum, a one-hour flight from Istanbul, provides easy ac-cess to the hip beach scene (this area is Turkey’s

St.-Tropez) but also offers quiet for a peaceful Mediterranean oasis vacation. Each pink stone villa is in its own enclave within an ancient olive grove and includes a pool and tiered outdoor seating areas. The nearby Classical ruins of Ephesus make for an excellent cultural day trip.

Patagonia RisingPeople cannot get enough of South America’s Patagonia mountain range—and for good reason. The region affords some of the world’s most spectacular views, exhilarating activities and cozy relaxation (few things are as warm as an alpaca wool blanket). The best lodges tend to be small, emphasizing staff-to-guest relation-

Best NewcomersThese new hotels and resorts burst onto the Indagare radar in 2012, thanks to their incredible locations, design schemes and the vivid sense of place they offer.

From left: Chile’s Tierra Patagonia; Singita Mara River Tented Camp, in Tanzania

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ships and experiences with nature. So with the growing interest in this stunning area, special properties continue to crop up.

Within the Torres del Paine National Park is Tierra Patagonia, an architecturally stun-ning lodge that treats the surrounding nature with reverence. The forty rooms all feature large picture windows and light wood furni-ture—inducing guests to use their rooms as a relaxation hub before and after exploring the spectacular land. Outside the national park but close enough for easy access, the Chilean-owned Singular is housed in a facility where meat was stored in the 19th century before being shipped to Europe. More than twenty guided expeditions

are available—on sea, land, glaciers and moun-tains—and the hotel can arrange a breathtaking transfer by boat to the acclaimed Eolo property across the Argentine border.

For those returning home by way of Buenos Aires, a few days at the new Entre Cielos, in Mendoza, is a lovely way to ease back into civili-zation while sampling some of the regions finest wines. Guests can dine under the stars at the al fresco Beef Club & Wine House, which features an Asado grill beside the grape vines.

An Island of Your OwnMembers often ask where they can find a great beach at the end of a culture-heavy Southeast

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Asia trip. Thanks to two outstanding new properties, this question has just become easier to answer. Song Saa, which gets its name from the Khmer word for “sweetheart,” is located on a private island off the coast of Cambodia. A few days in an over-water villa can be a great option for adding a bit of romance to a history-laden visit to the country’s archaeological sites. Avail-able activities include island and rainforest safa-ris, sea kayaking and treasure hunts for kids can also be organized. The resort operates helicopter transfers from Phnom Penh to the island.

Nihiwatu, in Indonesia, is the perfect spot for relaxed family bonding. A seamless indoor-out-door flow encourages barefooted relaxation and provides a glimpse of true island living. Wrote an Indagare member after a stay: “We brought

our seven- and ten-year-old children and had the best family vacation we have ever experienced.”

Urban Design Nowhere are small, sophisticated, serene hotels more appreciated than in hot, exciting and chaotic cities. This is one of the reasons that Bangkok’s Siam made a splash when it opened this year with thirty-nine suites and villas. Frequent visitors to Bangkok who are looking for a quieter neighborhood adore the off-the-beaten path location. As traffic can be a problem in Bangkok, riverboat is the preferred mode of transportation. The style is cool Art Deco, with sleek black-and-white furnishings, high ceilings, private pools and personal butlers. The

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decorative objects, such as wrought-iron bed frames and bespoke light fixtures created by lo-cal craftsmen. Modern amenities include Frette linens, citrus-scented Ortigia bath products and Jacuzzis. Most rooms have views of the charm-ing old city.

Africa WildernessAs connectivity has become faster and more crucial to our daily life, a travel trend has emerged: the chase to find hotels, resorts and destinations that allow travelers to unplug and reconnect in remote locales. The raw grandeur of the African bush and the purity of days that revolve around wildlife offer just that.

In Tanzania’s Lamai Triangle, Singita Mara River Tented Camp might be the most “off the grid” property in the Serengeti. Run completely on solar power, the property includes just six guest tents, all of which are perfectly located for viewing the wildebeest migrate across the river. Other game sightings can include crocodiles, hippos, big cats and elephants. The Cécile & Boyd’s interior design is contemporary, estab-lishing a style that is both hip and at one with nature.

Those looking for a secluded beach vacation will be happy at Vamizi Island, off the coast of Mozambique. The emphasis here is on the sand, the sea and the creatures who live in the clear blue waters; the snorkeling and scuba diving in this area are world-renowned.

For pure romance, South Africa’s Lion Sands Treehouse is an isolated perch high above the ground, ideal for a stay for two under the stars. Guests can listen to the sounds of wildlife as they fall asleep—and awake with the sunrise. The property, located on the border of Kruger National Park, offers some of the best game viewing on bush walks, as well as on the camp’s property.

restaurant is in an old teak house rescued and transported to the property by Jim Thompson; even if you’re not staying here, a boat ride to the restaurant for a meal is fun and a great way to see the city.

The port city of Cartagena, on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, is a popular warm-weather destination for travelers wishing to experience a South American city filled with colonial-era pal-aces and cathedrals and boasting a vibrant art scene. The Caribbean climate, easy access (Jet-Blue has recently started nonstop flights from New York City) and laid-back approach to days and nights have made Cartagena an emerging beloved holiday spot, especially for North and South Americans. Casa San Agustin’s thirty rooms are outfitted with Colombian-designed

Clockwise, top left: Cambodia’s Song Saa; Vamizi, in Mozambique; Bangkok’s Siam; in

Tanzania with Singita

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Great Itineraries: Southern AfricaOne of Indagare’s most popular honeymoon destinations is southern Africa, thanks to a variety of experiences, from the vibrancy of Cape Town to the romance of safari.

When Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley was

asked last year by Town & Country Weddings magazine to map out the ultimate honey-moon, one of her top choices was southern Africa. “South Africa and Botswana offer an incredible combination of sa-fari adventures, great food and wine, as well as some of the world’s most exquisite hotels,” she says. This honeymoon fun kicks off in Botswana’s Oka-vango Delta and culminates in Cape Town.

Day 1: JohannesburgInternational flights arrive in Johannesburg, where you may need to overnight before heading on safari. If time allows, head to the Saxon, whose tranquil grounds offer much-needed relaxation after your flight.

Day 2-6: BotswanaTransfer to Botswana’s Maun and travel via light aircraft to Vumbura Plains, a luxury tented camp situated in a pri-vate concession bordering the Moremi Game Reserve in the extreme north of the Okavango Delta. Activities include open-vehicle safaris and mokoro and boat safaris, which offer close-up viewing of lions,

leopards, elephants, cheetahs and buffalo, along with all the plains animals. After two nights, board a helicopter to Mombo Camp, known for its intimate elegance and its game experience, one of the best on the African continent.

Day 7-9: HermanusSeveral flights take you back to South Africa, where the next stop is the stunning Indian Ocean coast. Check in to Birkenhead House, on a cliff side in the fishing town of Hermanus. It contains just eleven tastefully appointed rooms, decorated by owner and style maven Liz Biden, who has a knack for melding artwork and furniture from her various travels around the world. Adventure seekers may opt for shark-cage diving (weather permitting); other activities include horseback riding, whale watching and sundowners on the property.

Day 10-12: Cape TownThe vibrant city of Cape Town is a short drive up the coast from Hermanus. Check in to the chic Ellerman House, our top choice for an intimate ex-perience on the Atlantic Coast. The property offers an unri-valed view overlooking a small bay between Sea Point and

Clifton, and its relaxed-yet-refined ambiance is well suited to most honeymooners. Cape Town boasts culture, buzzing restaurants and shopping, as well as one of the world’s most scenic settings. But at the end of this activities-filled trip, you may also opt for spa treat-ments and downtime poolside at Ellerman House.

Day 13-15: FranschhoekTake the breathtaking drive into the eastern Cape’s Winelands, checking in to La Residence, another stunning Biden creation. Spend days exploring the vast vineyards and grand manor houses, with gourmet alfresco lunches. You can also tour the charming village of Stellenbosch, with its well-preserved Cape Dutch, Georgian and Victorian archi-tecture. A must is dinner in Le Quartier Français’s superb Tasting Room, run by Dutch-born chef Margot Janse.

Possible Add-Ons:Indagare’s Bookings Team is happy to talk you through such possible add-ons as relaxing beach time in Mozambique and the Seychelles, sporting life in Zambia and off-radar exploration in gorgeous Namibia. Contact our Team: 212-988-2611.

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Clockwise, from top: in the bush; La Residence, in the Cape Winelands; Cape Town’s Ellermann

House; a Cape Town beach scene

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photo portfolio

Where in the World...Last year, the Indagare staff traveled to close to forty countries, scouting and exploring the best of each destination for our members. Here are some of the highlights of these remarkable journeys—in images and words.

Marrakech, Morocco: “One evening in Marrakech, my friend, Caroline (pictured) and I ventured to the Palmeraie for dinner at Ksar Char Bagh. We miscalculated and accidentally ar-rived at the hotel a full hour before our reservation - a happy mistake, because it gave us time to explore before the sun went down. We had the stunning property almost en-tirely to ourselves. I can’t imagine having visited without seeing it in the late afternoon light.” ~CABELL BELK

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Virunga Mountains, Rwanda: “After hiking an hour and a half into the mountains we were able to locate the Gorilla family (left). About thirty yards before we encountered the Silverback, we began to smell an over-whelming scent that was produced by the male, warning us that we were in his territory. We then slowly made our way around a spot of dense vegetation and stepped into a clearing with the perfect view of the Silverback. Over the next hour, we were able to follow the Hirwa family while they played, ate and napped. It was an unforget-table experience. ~ALEX ERDMAN

Prague, Czech Republic: “Towering over Prague adjacent to the medieval castle is the 12th-century Strahov Monastery, home to a breathtaking library (left). The collection of 200,000 prints and manuscripts has been kept in pristine condition because of strict lighting rules and restric-tions to visitor numbers. Indagare members can be taken behind the velvet ropes to tour the library and see antique books and globes up close. They can contact us to be set up with a private guide.” ~AMELIA OSBORNE

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Yangon, Myanmar: “This March, while traveling in Myanmar, my group stopped by an orphanage outside Yangon (above), which was run by a 35-year-old monk. With our guide translating, he spoke about the kids in his care, describing how many parents in the country’s rural parts face the impossible choice of giving their children to orphanages near bigger cities in the hopes that they get an education. As he spoke, a burst of sunlight flooded the room, making these young novice monks glow as my fellow traveler Wency Leung shot this picture. It was very touching.” ~SIMONE GIRNER

Tokyo, Japan: “During my trip to Japan, I became

enamored with traditional Japanese laquerware (right). When I was in

Tokyo, I discovered a beautiful store called Zohiko that has been creat-

ing laquerware since 1661. They sell everything from boxes and tableware

to beautiful ornaments. They are perfect gifts and souvenirs although

be prepared for the steep price.” ~TARA TUNNEY

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Bali, Indonesia: “Somewhere between jumping off this waterfall (above) and dining on a deserted beach, I fell in love with Indonesia. My adventure began aboard a float plane headed towards turquoise Amanwana Bay. I spent the next two days living out a luxe-version of Castaway: “glamping” on the edge of a nature reserve, diving amidst exotic sea creatures and hiking to this waterfall. There is no feeling like that of reckless abandon, floating in the air and into the unknown.” ~BARKLEY HICKOX

Tel Aviv, Israel: “I took this in Jerusalem (left): a tired man beside a stair leading to a door marked by the cross. It looked simple and symbolic. Later I learned that owing to power struggles among Christian church-es, Orthodox Ethiopians were long ago pushed out of controlling any main interior space at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Christ was crucified and buried—so they took up residence on its roof. This monk was indeed a picture of faith, but a much deeper one than I knew.” ~JOHN CANTRELL

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Moscow, Russia: “One of my favorite journeys was the Insider Trip to Russia. We visited Moscow and St. Petersburg, cities that boast such richness of history and art that one is poorer for not having seen them. A highlight was a private tour of the Bolshoi Theatre, where Indagare member Hollye Jacobs took this photo (right). Dur-ing our tour, we even got to walk on the stage, which was incredible.” ~MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY

Ningaloo Reef, Australia: “As the sun set over the Indian Ocean and Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef (left), dusk on serene Sal Salis beach was an ideal spot to reflect on my day, and feel humbled by the experience. A day that included watching exuberant baby kangaroos from my bed at dawn, midday swimming along the reef with migrating whale sharks, and a late afternoon hike through an ancient canyon.” ~BROOKE PEARSON

Bora Bora“By looking at this picture (above) you would never guess that I am terrified of the ocean. The snorkeling excursion I did while staying at the Four Seasons Bora Bora was an exhilarating experience. I swam with four 10 foot-long manta rays and had fish feeding out of my hands, all without hyperventilat-ing. And now I have proof, thanks to my incredible instructor, Christophe Poch, who took this photo.” ~MONIQUE BRENDEL

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Rishikesh, India“Participating in the Arrti ceremony (right)

was overwhelming and inspiring at the same time, much like India itself. I loved how calm

and a peace this man appeared but mainly how focused he was on his prayers almost

oblivious to the total chaos that surrounded him.” ~PATTI KELLEY

Lake Como, Italy: I adored my trip to Lake Como and was captivated by Villa Balbianello (left), the beautifully preserved his-toric home of a former polar explorer. It is only reachable by boat and the gardens are magical.” ~ELIZA HARRIS

Istanbul, Turkey: “I entered the Hagia Sofia (left) in Istanbul in the early evening of late September, in a rare, quiet moment after most of the tourists had left for the day, and the few that remained spoke in hushed tones. I felt physically over-whelmed when I entered the space by the tangible holiness seems to permeate the structure itself. It was a moving instant in a city that offers many remarkable moments.” ~LIZZIE MCGIRR

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Great Itineraries: South AmericaSouth America offers one of the world’s most diverse landscapes for activities in the great outdoors. Here is an itinerary that focuses on Patagonia.

Offering activities ranging from fly-fishing at Tipiliuke in San Martín de Los Andes to glacier climbing in El Calafate, South America is a hot spot for active types . This itinerary kicks off on the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls, crosses into Argentina and includes Pata-gonia’s most popular sights, as well as some lesser-known gems. A fabulous add-on to this itinerary is mysterious Easter Island, where guests will have time to relax after this activities-heavy journey.

Day 1-2: Iguazu FallsYou can view the falls from both the Argentinian and the Brazilian sides. The latter offers panoramas of the falls,

while the Argentine side provides close-up view-ing. Forming more than 275 individual falls, the water drops into the Devil’s Throat Gorge from as high as 250 feet—beating Niagara by 70 feet. In the park on the Brazil-ian side, families can explore pristine subtropical rainforests supporting more than 2,000 identified plant, reptile and mammal species, includ-ing jaguars and pumas. Our preferred hotel here is a classic Orient-Express property located within the Iguazu Na-tional Park. It is a short walk from the waterfalls, so guests can visit them in the evening and at dawn, when the park is closed to other visitors.

Day 3-5: San Martin de Los AndesArgentina’s San Martín de los Andes is a quiet paradise on the shores of Lake Lácar. Originally a military base, it has become an inviting mountain village, offering some of Patagonia’s best fly-fishing. Indagare’s preferred lodge, located in the middle of Andean Patagonia, has only nine bedrooms and offers such experiences as fly-fishing, cattle roundups, horseback riding, hiking and golfing.

Day 6-8: BarilocheSan Carlos de Bariloche is in the western part of Argentina’s Province of Río Negro, in the heart of the Nahuel Huapi Na-

From left: hiking in Patagonia; Eolo Lodge

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tional Park. Bariloche is an ac-tive city surrounded by nature, and in the summer travelers can take part in rafting, hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding and fly-fishing, while snow sports are popular in the winter. Visitors can take ad-vantage of boat lake excursions to access remote areas.

Day 9-11:El CalafateEl Calafate, in Argentinian Patagonia, is home to the incredible Eolo Lodge, set on more than 3,000 hectares of private property. Just thirty minutes by car from the town of El Calafate, the hotel is designed to evoke the estancias built by settlers in the 1900s. From here it is possible to

visit a wide variety of glaciers, including the Perito Moreno Glacier and National Park Los Glaciares, which boasts an incredible array of colors. Families can also take a boat across the Brazo Rico part of Lake Argentina, then attach crampons and walk through glacial crevasses. The Perito Moreno Glacier is extremely active, so guests often hear it cracking as it moves and watch pieces fall into Lake Argentina.

Day 12-14: Torres del PaineOn the Chilean side of Patago-nia is the region of Torres del Paine, flanked by the summit of the Paine Grande and the peaks of Los Cuernos. The Tor-res del Paine National Park is home to an extraordinary trio of lodges—Hoesteria Explora Paine, Tierra Patagonia and Singular. Photographers and travelers interested in geology might consider adding a side trip to the famous Marble Caves. These vibrant blue cav-erns are partially submerged in Lake General Carrera. Travelers fly from Torres del Paine to Balmaceda, then make a five-hour drive to Mal-lin Colorado Eco Lodge, on the shores of the lake. It’s a lengthy journey, but the upside is that you won’t run into many other tourists.

Day 15-16: SantiagoThe Chilean capital is a great place to conclude a trip to this part of the world, thanks to its many cultural offerings, including delicious food and stylish boutiques. A great place to stay is a boutique hotel in the artistic Bellavista neigh-borhood.

Add-On: Easter IslandEaster Island is one of the least inhabited island in the world, lying about 2,500 miles east of Tahiti and west of Chile. Flights from Santiago and Lima take around five and a half hours. About the size of Martha’s Vineyard, Easter Island is a perfect triangle, its three corners created by volcanoes that erupted from the sea between 3 million and 300,000 years ago. The only town, Hanga Roa, and the air-port are in the southwest part. The 1,000 famed Easter Island heads are scattered through-out the island, most of them by the sea. The extraordinary Explora Rapa Nui, designed to have a minimal impact on its surroundings, makes the perfect base for Easter Island exploration.

For help booking a trip to South America, contact Indagare’s Book-ings Team: 212-988-2611.

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Looking ForwardIndagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley shares the resorts and destinations she’s most excited to visit this year.

Clockwise from above: Mukul, Nicaragua; Botanique, Brazil; Fogo Island, Newfoundland.

Every year we hear about new hotels. Sometimes partners come to us

and ask where we think they should be opening. (Brazil, Panama and certain islands in the Caribbean are on our list.) Other times, they already have the property, and we get to brainstorm on the development of the project. (Fortunately, more of these are now happening in Central and South America.) Others, of course, are just welcome rumors and surprises. We have great hopes for hotels debuting in 2013. The follow-ing are among the most hotly anticipated.

EUROPEGstaad, SwitzerlandIt has been more than 100 years since Switzerland’s Gstaad ski resort saw the opening of a new luxury hotel, but the wait seems to have been worthwhile. The Alpina Gstaad, which launched in December, blends traditional Swiss design with modern amenities like a Six Senses Spa and Megu restaurant.

Rome, ItalyUnlike Paris and London, which have many fabulous hotels, Rome has been virtu-ally a one-hotel town for those who want a stellar location

and great service and design. (Yes, the Hotel de Russie is our hands-down favorite.) But when JK Place Roma opens this spring, there may be another choice. French Alps & IcelandMany of our favorite hotels are passion projects, the endeavors of individuals who fall in love with a place or concept. One man who was frustrated by not being able to find really remote wilderness spots for skiing and fly-fishing with comfortable lodges is amassing his own col-lection. Two for 2013: Deplar Farm, in Iceland, and Chalet Pelerin in the French Alps.

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spotlight

AMERICASNewfoundlandWhat started as an artists’ colony and sustainable com-munity project in Newfound-land promises to be a new kind of island escape, thanks to Fogo Island Inn, opening this spring. Along with just 29 rooms, housed in a striking building conceived to blend with the splendid natural setting, the Inn will include a restaurant helmed by a well-known Canadian chef, a small movie theater and a spa at the top affording incredible views of Newfoundland’s pristine landscape (time to reread Annie Proulx’s masterful The Shipping News).

ChileUruguay’s Estancia Vik and Playa Vik have been among the most popular resorts of the Indagare community since they opened. Now, the family behind these wonderful prop-erties will be opening its third luxury hotel in South America, on the grounds of its award-winning vineyard outside San-tiago, Chile. Vina Vik will have 22 suites, each decorated by a different Chilean artist. It will surely be a wonderful addition to the Vik portfolio.

Meanwhile, the folks re-sponsible for one of the most exclusive resorts in Chile, the

eight-suite Awasi in Atacama, are also expanding. They will be unveiling a stunning property in Patagonia, as well as one near Iguazu Falls, which will make an Awasi circuit a sublime, private adventure (see page 22 to read Great Itinerar-ies: South America). NicaraguaIs Nicaragua the next Costa Rica? After having seen the stunning new Mukul resort, on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast, I have no doubt that it will draw those seeking culture and beauty and become one of Central America’s hot spots. The resort is part of Guacalito de la Isla, a 1,670-acre eco-sensitive resort development on four miles of untouched Pacific coast. It will include a boutique hotel with sprawl-ing suites, a David McLay Kidd–designed golf course and jungle and surf activi-ties. Backed by tycoon Carlos Pellas, it’s being modeled after such properties as Las Ventanas, with an emphasis on luxury and a sense of place.. BrazilBrazil has boundless soul and beauty but very few hotels fit for spoiled travelers. Now, just in time for the country’s host-ing of the World Cup (2014) and the Olympics (2016), a

gorgeous boutique hotel is debuting. Botanique is located in Campos do Jordão, a two-hour drive from São Paulo, in a lush mountainside setting. All the seventeen suites boast minimalist designer furniture and massive windowed walls. The serene oasis doesn’t accept kids, but for couples it will be a great option for a few relaxing days after a culture-filled trip.

ASIABhutanNature lovers will have a stun-ning new base from which to explore the wilderness of Bhu-tan in May: the twelve-suite Gangte Goenpa Lodge, set in the stunning Gangte Valley in central Bhutan. Rural archi-tecture and crafts inform the design, and in spring and fall, guests will be able to balloon over the glacial valley with the Himalayas as a backdrop.

VietnamCruising along the Mekong is one of southeast Asia’s top experiences, but there has not been a luxury boat option until now. Aqua Expeditions brings its special brand of riverboat comfort to this part of the world. Its small ships with onboard naturalists have made the Amazon an aha experience. This addition will be a must for Vietnam itineraries.

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itinerary

W hen an Indagare member approached our team to plan the ultimate birthday celebration, we crafted an

itinerary in Marrakech, one of our favorite style destinations. The four days included time ex-ploring the city’s sights and its legendary souk, and culminated with a dinner party in a private riad, with a fire show and troupe of belly danc-ers. Here is what a trip to Morocco to celebrate a special occasion might look like.

Day 1: ArrivalEase into the weekend and the atmosphere with a relaxing lunch by the pool at La Mamou-

nia, the buzzy party headquarters. A cocktail welcome reception hosted at Le Bar Marocain serves as a reunion for friends and family who have traveled across oceans for the affair.

Day 2: Medina & PalmeraieSpend the morning practicing yoga on the lawn, followed by a classic hammam treatment at the spa. In the afternoon, break into small groups to explore the ancient medina with a Marrakech native and expert historian. Visit the medieval Medersa ben Youssef (Koranic University), which is regarded as one of the finest Islamic monuments in North Africa, and the nearby

Great Itineraries: Moroccan PartyWhat better way to celebrate a milestone birthday than to gather your friends and family for an over-the-top destination fête in the stylish city of Marrakech?

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Clockwise from top: A celebration in Marrakech; a room at La Mamounia; at Jnane Tamsna; a village in the Atlas Mountains.

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19th-century Mnebhi Palace, which houses the Musée de Marrakech. End the afternoon among the ruins of the sprawling Badu’s Palace, which was once a 360-room compound of lavish deca-dence. In the evening, retreat to a private retreat in the lush Palmeraie area for a celebration din-ner under the stars.

Day 3: Shopping, Culture & CelebrationMarrakech is teeming with energy and pos-sibilities, and there are endless ways to spend an active day. Divide into groups of like-minded souls for customized excursions. Horticulture aficionados might visit the tropical Majorelle

Gardens, restored by the late Yves St. Laurent, then tour private villas exhibiting a range of landscape architecture styles characteristic of North Africa. Style mavens will want to take advantage of the city’s fabled shopping with a personalized tour of the souk, stopping by shops that carry incredible fashion, accessories and home items. Artistic types can sign up for a pottery workshop or photography tour (the light in Marrakech is famous for a reason), and foodies can retreat to a private kitchen for a lesson in Moroccan cooking. Reunite in the late afternoon for lunch at the edge of the Desert d’Agafay, starting with a cocktail reception in Berber tents pitched on a hill with fantastic views. Throughout lunch, local Gnawa musi-cians will entertain and set the mood with mu-sic indigenous to the tribes of Northern Africa.

On the final evening, gather in the hotel lobby in Moroccan-themed attire. Men with lanterns will escort the group along winding paths deep into the Medina for the final dinner party, held in an ancient private riad, where they will be welcomed by rose petals. Cocktails will be served in the gardens and around the pool, with the Koutoubia Mosque glowing in the distance. Dinner will be served in the open-air courtyard, and the party will continue late into the night.

Day Four: Atlas MountainsActive types can head into the Atlas Mountains, a forty-five-minute drive away, for hiking and a visit to a Berber village, a great way to get a sense of Morocco’s cultural roots. Or simply spend the day relaxing poolside, arranging a spa treatment (or two) and linger over a delicious Moroccan lunch, enjoying a last day in this enthralling place.

Our Bookings Team can adapt this itinerary for a number of festivities: 212-988-2611.c

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round the world

Global CitizensThe world is a classroom for more and more parents, who take their children on around-the-world sabbatical trips. Oh, the places they’ll go...

A few years ago, an Indagare member asked our Bookings Team to map out an around-the-world trip for him and

his family, explaining the appeal of immersing his children in different corners and cultures of the world. That family was onto something—this year five more Indagare families opted for lengthy “road schooling” trips, circling the globe following itineraries pulled together by our travel team. Experiences along the way were a mix of educational (exploring the ancient civilizations of Italy and Egypt), inspirational (meeting the organizers behind such impressive nonprofits as the Cambodian Children’s Fund) and once in a lifetime (cliff jumping in Santo-rini and hot-air ballooning in Myanmar). Many travelers captured their often-months-long adventures on blogs, in emails and in thousands of photos, inspiring scores of friends to consider

copycat trips with their families, or to join them for a week or two along the way. One of Indagare’s core beliefs is that authentic experi-ences are endangered but that we can preserve them by traveling intelligently and responsibly. Here’s what we think you should know if you’re considering an around-the-world trip.

Choose Your Highlights: These epic journeys can take all forms, start in any country and move in any direction. (Indagare Tip: going from west to east creates less jet lag.) Some trips have started on a beach—Uruguay’s Playa Vik is an excellent way to mix sun with culture—while others have launched with urban immersion in Paris. Active times can include white-water raft-ing in New Zealand, game drives in Tanzania, tango lessons in Buenos Aires and trekking in the wilds of Nepal.

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Educate: Children and their parents will have eye-opening experiences learning first-hand about how the world’s population lives, the industries they work in, the cuisines they have developed and the religions they practice. Spiri-tuality across the globe becomes more powerful when seen up close. How better to teach a bud-ding architect the difference between building styles than by visiting a Buddhist temple in Bagan two weeks after seeing the Acropolis?

Plan in Downtime: Always allow for some rest and relaxation, which allow parents and kids to absorb past experiences and prepare for the next ones. Tropical locations like the Seychelles and Maldives or adorable ski towns in Switzerland have been among the favorites for breaks from more culture-heavy places, like temple-filled Southeast Asia or old-world European capitals.

Map it Out: One family took fifty-four weeks to circle the globe last year. Highlights included eighty-six days of skiing in Austria, cliff jumping in Santorini, tracking wildlife in the Masai Mar, and hiking the Incan trail in Machu Picchu. They returned, saying that in every country they met people who repeated the mantra that the kids would receive an education from this expe-rience far better than in any classroom.

Trust Your Impulse: Anyone curious about how kids experience a return to school after many months of traveling should read Brian Janssen’s blog (www.janssenfamilyrtw.blogspot.com): “Our kids have melded seamlessly back into school with zero transition issues. I was heartened to read an essay by our oldest daugh-ter who wrote that initially she didn’t want to take the trip, but that it ended up being the best thing she has ever done. Don’t give up parents...you’re right once in a while.”

Hotel Le Bristol The Berkeley Parrot Cay Hotel Arts Barcelona Mandarin Oriental Barcelona The Mark Hotel Castiglion del Bosco Four Seasons Istanbul on the Bosphorus Peninsula Beverly Hills Claridge’s Hotel Sacher Wien Villa des Orangers Hotel de Russie Villa d’Este Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Saint-Barth Isle de France Cipriani VeniceHotel Bauer Il Palazzo Shutters on the Beach Four Seasons Istanbul Sultanahmet Il Pellicano Kasbah Tamadot Little Nell Setai Miami 

Indagare Most Booked 2012:

Indagare VIPSEvery booking made by the Indagare community is important, but when members check in at any of these most-booked hotels, the red carpet is truly rolled out. It’s just one of the reasons to book your travel with our expert Bookings Team, who will make sure that the hotels know that a member of Indagare is coming. Contact us by calling 212-988-2611 or emailing bookings@indagare.com.

Hotel Le Bristol

dreambook: fiji

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Bucket list hotels are those blow-you-away properties that consistently deliver stand-out-forever experiences. Some ex-

amples include Tanzania’s Singita Grumeti, the Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc in the South of France and Explora Patagonia. In the fall of 2012, I visited the newest entry into the pantheon: Laucala in Fiji. With just twenty-five residences on an island a fifth the size of Manhattan, this fantasy retreat offers an unparalleled sense of space. I would venture to call it the most spec-tacular resort in the world, and I cannot think of a place more likely to deliver wow to the pickiest of travelers.

And Fiji itself, consisting of 333 islands spread out over 20,000 square miles in the

South Pacific, is extraordinary. The air smells clean and fragrant with flowers; birdsongs fill the mornings; the colors are supercharged, from flowers to sea life. The fantasy quality of each day’s backdrop may be why the Fijian people seem so happy. You rarely pass a person who isn’t grinning. The Fijians’ smiles and effusive ‘Bula’ greetings are contagious. In fact, the song Don’t Worry Be Happy could be the national anthem so aptly does it capture the pervasive attitude of the islands.

STAy: LAuCALALaucala is pronounced softly, with all its vowels brought to slow fruition in the mouth, as in lah-aw-thah-lah. And in keeping with its name, the

Off the Map: LaucalaIt took Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley more than twenty hours to arrive in Fiji, but once there, she understood what all the fuss is about, thanks to one stunning resort.

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Fijian island itself—and the exciting new resort now nestled into its hills—is an environment brought into a slow and rich state of being.

Formerly the private island of publishing magnate Malcolm Forbes, until a few years ago Laucala was home only to Forbes’s surprisingly modest residence, minimal infrastructure and a few simple buildings. The island’s inhabitants were dependent on the production of coconut oil and copra. But in the late 1990s, the island was bought by the founder of Red Bull, Dietrich Mateschitz, who spent a fortune to make it a 21st-century Garden of Eden that blends überluxury with mindful conservation. I cannot think of a place more likely to deliver wow to the pickiest of travelers. It is on par, in terms of

design, service and memorable location, with the Singita properties in Africa, but in place of the African bush, it offers the jaw-dropping tropical beauty of the South Pacific. It should be on everyone’s bucket list.

At roughly five square miles, Laucala Island, once a volcanic mass, is about one-fifth the size of Manhattan. The western portion is home to thick, natural mangroves and bright white beaches; the eastern portion boasts a vast organic farm, which guests are encouraged to visit—one of the many activities suitable for kids or merely curious adventurers who want to ex-plore the island’s diverse topography on one of the golf-cart Jeeps provided to each residence. There are twenty-five residences, in locations

“From the first drive from Laucala’s own airport to our residence, we were truly in another world. The friendly

Fijian staff assisted with everything, and each seemed

to be an expert in his or her field.” ~Indagare member

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destination report: fiji

ranging from hilltops to over water; staying in the latter allows you to dive right out your front door. For maximum privacy, some residences are a mile away from the others. You enter your compound via a bamboo gate and a garden path. Each room is in a separate thatched-roof building linked to the others by walkways. A private pool is sited to make the most of the dramatic views, whether they drop into the sea from a hilltop or lead straight down to a private white-sand beach. The decor is South Pacific sexy, with wood and stone floors, curvy couches, chandeliers in the shape of jellyfish and shag rugs. Spacious dressing areas lead to the bath-rooms, where tubs are carved out of giant hunks of granite and showers are tiled with hundreds of pebbles. And as if one spectacular bathroom isn’t enough, there is a second outdoor one with the same mammoth rock bathtub, full shower

and sink under a thatched pavilion in the open air. Stone paths lead to open-air lounge and din-ing areas as well.

Overall, Laucala is 90 percent self-sustain-able, meaning that nearly all of what you order at one of the gourmet restaurants stationed at various panoramic and beachfront points across the island has been raised organically and free range on the island. Cows, chickens and goats are tended by on-site Fijian staff; shrimp and fish are caught the day you eat them; fruits and vegetables are also island grown and hand-picked and can be personally prepared for you whenever—and wherever—you choose to dine. Even when there are only four or six guests on the island, all five restaurants are open. The most formal is the Plantation House, the only structure left from the island’s days as a coconut plantation. Here, the talented French chef who c

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Getting There: Laucala Island is accessible directly by private jet or indirectly, via the Nadi International Airport, by Air Pacific, Qantas, Air New Zealand and Korean Air, which have daily flights, or by private charter. The resort recommends that guests traveling commercially from the United States fly via Auckland (on Air New Zealand) or Sydney (on Air Pacific). Air Pacific flies direct from L.A., but its business-class seats are not flat bed. Laucala Island’s own airstrip can accommodate only smaller jets; larger private jets have to use Nadi, where the resort keeps a hangar for round-the-clock arrivals and departures.

worked for another one of Mateschitz’s passion projects—the gourmet restaurant Ikarus in Hangar 7, in Austria—prepares seven-course dinners that show off his virtuosity and the island’s bounty.

Although the island is beyond secluded—located 1,300 miles north of Auckland—the resort takes scattered integration rather than segregated clustering as its refreshing composi-tion. You get a whole lot more activity options than at a typical beachside resort, but many are tucked into their own island oases. There’s an 18-hole golf course designed by David McLay Kidd, with a pro who recently left the PGA circuit for Laucala. Trails around the island are ideal for hiking, mountain biking or horseback riding, and a spa that resembles a little village in the jungle draws every guest whose visit includes a welcome massage. But with spec-tacular reefs ringing the island, it is no wonder that water sports are the favorite draw. There’s a PADI-accredited diving base offering courses ranging from open-water certification to night dives, guided snorkeling trips and wreck diving. The water-sports center boasts paddle boards, kayaks, surfboards and underwater scooters, as well as equipment for scuba diving, snorkeling and kite surfing and instructors who can coach beginners to experts. The boat fleet contains jet skis, motorboats, catamarans and large

sailboats, including one that competed for Red Bull in international regattas. You can arrange night trips fishing for the reef ’s bounty: blue and black marlin, giant trevally, wahoo. For the museum hound who’s beginning to feel lost at sea, there’s a replica traditional Fijian village erected by scholars that includes a wedding chapel, a dance ground with ceremonial hall and a bure kalou — the holy Fijian temple. But for many the biggest blessing of a visit here is the number of heartbeats per square acre. With so few people on the island, city dwellers will find that the sense of space and quiet reconnects them with nature and serenity as few places can.

WhO ShOuLd STAy Laucala is the perfect spot for honeymoon-ers or couples celebrating a special romantic milestone, but it is also great for families who travel in high style but don’t like to sacrifice hands-on experience and adventure along the way. A range of activities is at your fingertips, and the staff is ready to arrange whatever strikes your fancy—whether it be cooking classes with the chef, a private dinner for two at the upscale Plantation House restaurant, snorkeling in sheltered coves or taking your children to gather eggs at the country chicken house. Rates include all meals and beverages, access to a private cook, chauffeur and nanny on request and most sports and activities (such as horseback riding, golf and tennis).

ROOMS TO GeT: Those seeking privacy should book a hilltop residence. Those seeking drama should opt for a peninsula suite sited at the end of Seagrass peninsula or an overwater bungalow. For fami-lies, the plantation suites are the right choice, because they have their own beach and are clos-est to the dive center and restaurants.

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Berlin’s creative scene is permeated by an uncanny sense of exploration and risk-taking—perhaps one of the reasons Berlin is often likened to New York City circa 1985. But Berlin is not 1980s New York. It’s something entirely unique, shaped by a complex history and a cur-rent urgency to prove itself as a contemporary capital. Berlin is a massive place to explore, both geographically and emotionally. It’s also a city whose stereotypes precede a visit—some warranted, others false—and whose nuances are hard to grasp from abroad. Here’s what every visitor should know.

Berlin is…eight times the size of Paris.Officially, Berlin has just twelve districts, but it’s a massive sprawl that feels even larger because each district seems to be composed of myriad totally different neighborhoods. Most of the major sites—including the Museum Island, Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag, Berlin Wall Memorial—are located in or close to the Mitte district, in former East Berlin, which also has some of the city’s best restaurants and shopping neighborhoods. Choosing where to be based is key: residential Charlottenburg, in former West Berlin, is a lovely district but far from most of the sights; two hotels with central locations are the Hotel de Rome and the Regent Berlin.

Berlin is…history.The multiple layers of history overlap in unex-pected ways. For instance, the Topography of Terror, an outdoor exhibition at the haunting site of the former Gestapo headquarters, also has a large chunk of Berlin Wall running along-side it. You should spend at least one day with

a guide, as it’s easy to miss things in the rebuilt city. While many of the museums are excellent, what’s even more powerful is walking past a hip boutique hotel and learning that the building was a KGB headquarters or strolling along the Spree River and hearing about the courageous attempts to swim to freedom from East to West.

Berlin is…art and culture.One could spend an entire visit navigating among the city’s 150-plus museums (and many contemporary art galleries), so it’s critical to narrow your options and, if possible, go with an insider who can pull the city’s astounding cultural heritage into focus. Indagare’s favorite art-tour specialist can provide an introduction to the imposing Museum Island, home to four incredible museums: Pergamon, Altes, Neues and Bode. The Ishtar Gate, the Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus and the bust of Nefertiti are just some of the treasures here. Other highlights include the Neue Gemälde Gallery and the Sammlung Boros.

Berlin is…family-friendly.Most German cities are child-friendly, but Berlin goes further, catering to kids of all ages. There are cafés specifically for the stroller and toddler set, as well as playgrounds, parks and green spaces in every district. Some sites, such as Berliner Unterwelten, featuring a tour of Berlin’s underground, are excellent options for tweens and teens. The shopping scene, with tons of vintage boutiques, make an exploratory stroll exciting. It’s a great city for hip teens, especially the ones tired of the more spotless, history-heavy cityscapes of other Euro capitals.

dreambook: berlin

Berlin is...Past, present and future are woven into the soul of the German capital. Simone Girner explores its different faces, while Tel Aviv–based photographer Yossi Salis (www.salistudio.com) beautifully captures its hot spots and hidden corners.

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dreambook: berlin

Berlin is…green.Even more than twenty years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, massive plots of land in Berlin, especially in the east, remain undeveloped. The sense of space is uncanny; even in the govern-ment district, you come across amazingly beau-tiful green spaces along the river. The central Tiergarten, which begins behind the Memorial of the Murdered Jews of Europe, comprises 520 acres and contains several pretty lakes), as well as the amazing Berlin Zoo & Aquarium, two spots that should be on every parent’s list for when the weather is not great.

Berlin is…old-world.Although much of Berlin is shooting into the future, pockets remain amazingly old-world. A

wonderful example is Clärchens Ballhaus, a dance hall that opened in the 1910s and seems to belong to another era. Tiny wooden tables line a well-used parquet dance floor, the walls are clad in golden tinsel, and the whole thing is presided over by a friendly wait staff that he-roically continues serving cocktails as the place fills to the brim. Clärchen’s offers a slice of what Berlin must have been like in the Roaring Twen-ties. It’s also on one of the prettiest streets of Berlin, near the Hackesche Höfe, the Jüdische Mädchenschule and Chi Sing.

Berlin is…cutting-edge.The streets of Mitte abound with hidden restaurants, bars, clubs and shops. A visitor can walk the streets countless times and miss spots,

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which are hidden behind nondescript, graffiti-covered doors, down sketchy-looking alleyways, in the basement of empty storefronts. Finding the “in” places is half the fun and, in some cases, impossible unless you know locals, like one of Indagare’s favorite guides, an energetic Swede transplant who delights in taking small groups behind the scenes of his adopted home. The aggressively hip scene is surely not for everyone, but if you want to dance in the latest club, drink in a bar that seats just ten and blend into the night with the cool people (hint: dressing down is de rigueur), going with a Berliner is essential.

Berlin is…memory and future.Berlin is a city of memorials, many of them major tourist sites, like the Memorial of the

Murdered Jews of Europe and the Berlin Wall Memorial. But there are many more subtle ones, each powerful in its own small way. The devastating years of the Third Reich and the dark decades of the divided Germany are in plain view, literally and purposefully built into the cityscapes. For example, a double-line of red bricks runs along the path of the Berlin Wall, brilliantly demonstrating the division—an ever-present past that inspires conversations and requires thought. But Berlin is not trapped in history. Thanks to its creative spirit, the city strikes a remarkable balance, acknowledg-ing the importance of the past, embracing the opportunity of the present and wholeheartedly celebrating the unpredictability—and nervous splendor—of the future.

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dreambook: berlin

“If you want to eat in Berlin’s latest supper club, drink at a speakeasy and blend with the cool people, going with a plugged-in local is essential.”

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WheRe TO STAyThe city’s two best hotels are the Rocco Forte–managed Hotel de Rome, centrally located in Mitte’s Bebelplatz, and the Regent, which overlooks the pretty Gendarmenmarkt. Both are within walking distance of many of Berlin’s most famous sights. A hipper option is Soho House, tucked away in the former Eastern sec-tor, which draws fashionable locals to its rooftop bar and restaurant.

WheRe TO eATFor upscale German cuisine in a minimalist-chic setting, head to Alpenstück (Mitte; 9 Gartenstr.), which draws locals from the neigh-borhood as well as visitors. Michelin-starred cuisine is served at Reinstoff ( Mitte; 26 Schle-gelstr.), located at the back of a Mitte courtyard and overseen by one of the city’s most acclaimed young chefs. Scene seekers should not miss Cantina at Bar Tausend, in the middle of one of the city’s most happening nightclubs. For expertly prepared Vietnamese cuisine, there’s Chi Sing (Mitte; 62 Rosenthalerstr.), with its beautifully understated dining room (its sister establishment, Chen Che teahouse, is a perfect spot for a break during a Mitte shopping spree). For an old-school ambiance and hefty meat portions, Lutter & Wegner (Gendarmenmarkt; 56 Charlottenstr.) is a good choice, and culture connoisseurs shouldn’t miss Paris Bar (Charlot-tenburg; 152 Kantstr.), where steak with moun-tains of frites are served to an arty clientele (it’s in a gallery-heavy area in the former Western sector).

ONLy IN BeRLINThe city boasts countless hidden corners of design and intrigue. Get a taste of its sense of fun and humor at these places: Clärchen’s Ballhaus (Mitte; 24 Auguststr.), an old-school

dance hall that opened in the 1910s, features a different dance style every night of the week. Jüdische Mädchenschule (Mitte; 11–12 Au-guststr.), a renovated former school for Jewish girls, now contains a cluster of restaurants, ac-claimed galleries (don’t miss Camera Works and Eigen+Art) and the Kennedy Museum. Käfer (Reichstag; Platz der Republik), the restaurant at the top of the Reichstag parliament build-ing, allows diners with a reservation to skip the line and take an elevator straight to the food in Sir Norman Foster’s ingenious cupola. Cookies Cream (Mitte; 55 Behrenstr.) is a vegetarian spot in the same building as a famous nightclub of the same name; late diners can move on to dancing. Sage (Kreuzberg; 18–20 Köpenicker Str.), a trendy restaurant housed in a former factory is located on a man-made beach by the river Spree; summer months are the time to go. Frau Toni’s Parfum (Checkpoint Charlie; 13 Zimmerstr.) is worth a side trip to shop for beautifully crafted perfumes, all produced lo-cally, in an understated space near Checkpoint Charlie. More concentrated shopping is found in Mitte, around the Hackesche Höfe court-yards, home to ateliers and boutiques purvey-ing locally designed wares. With its wealth of museums and historic sites, Berlin has activities for any interest. One of the coolest experiences is Berliner Unterwelten, a nonprofit that hosts tours of underground Berlin, including raid shelters, ghost subway stations and bunkers.

Book My Trip: BerlinBerlin can be an overwhelming place to explore, espe-cially for first-time visitors. Indagare knows lots of great insiders, from art and history guides to a plugged-in local who runs dine-arounds at the city’s coolest restaurants. Contact Indagare’s Bookings Team for help crafting an itinerary that balances history, art and contemporary Berlin; (212) 988-2611.

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dreambook: myanmar

Myanmar, or Burma, offers one of the most fascinating adventures a traveler could hope for, providing a plethora of

experiences for all senses: explosions of color, pungent scents of spice and incense, tastes of sweetly strange fruit and garlicky rice and the sound of—quiet. There are no traffic jams (save for the occasional sleepy water buffalo lugging his load up road), and in some places foot traffic is limited to sandaled, orange-clad monks on their way to collect early morning alms.

We arrived in the city of Yangon, formerly Rangoon, after a few hectic days exploring Cambodia. Once considered the Pearl of the East, Yangon is now a city crumbling under

the weight of its former grandeur. Old, once ornately decorated colonial buildings await reconstruction; dusty roads pocked with crater-sized holes are hazardous to negotiate; streets are crisscrossed with electrical wires strung from building to building. During our city walk, we saw young men and boys kicking a molded wicker ball in a circle, showing off as we passed by; old men chewing on cane over a game of cards in the middle of the road; children walk-ing by in a semiorderly line, Spiderman back-packs bouncing on their shoulders. Everyone waved and seemed pleased that we are visiting.

In Chaukhtatgyi Paya, we visited the colossal reclining Buddha where it lives within a monas-

Letter from MyanmarIndagare members Pablo and Karol Pick fulfilled their dream of visiting the Southeast Asian country that’s at the top of everyone’s list these days. Here are their impressions.

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tic complex, coming eye to gigantic eyeball with the Buddha, who lounges in serenity. The most important and interesting section: the soles of the Buddha’s feet, which display a strange map of intricately carved astrological, mytho-logical and religious symbols. We also visited the holy Botataung Pagoda, with tiny private altars where men, women and children sat cross-legged offering prayers and flowers. At the Bogyoke Aung San Market, formerly the Scott Market, I picked up little boxes and demitasse spoons of mother-of-pearl, some lacquer bangle bracelets and a gorgeously worked straw bag that has since drawn compliments from Florida to New York—a $6 triumph. Outside the market, I stopped to watch a young girl sitting cross-legged on the street, cooking something over hot coals. She was, as were most Burmese people we saw, astonishingly beautiful. She stopped her work, retrieved a plastic bag and placed a morsel inside, then handed it to me. Our guide told me that it was a gift. How could I refuse? It was delicious; a Burmese version of a Krispy Kreme.

We also experienced what some consider one of the premier reasons to visit Myanmar: a visit to Shwedagon Paya, located on a hill overlook-ing Yangon and considered the country’s most iconic symbol. In the temple’s almost 2,500 years of existence, the site around it has devel-oped into a bizarre fairyland of large and small shrines and pagodas lit up with twinkling lights. Some buildings are festooned with glowering lions, laughing monkeys, twisted flowers and smiling, placid Buddhas. Hundreds of devotees stroll from shrine to shrine, sometimes stopping to chat with friends or to sit quietly and pray at a favored altar or spot under a tree.

From Yangon, we boarded a flight north to Shan State. Closer to the mountainous region of the country, near the China border, much of this area was and still is forbidden to visitors. We were driven to a small dockside post in Heho, where a flotilla of long-tail boats took us to the astonishing watery world of Inle Lake. Sur-

rounded by blue and green mountains, the lake is a giant mirror of tranquility, hiding its popu-lation and treasures within hundreds of canals, streams and inlets. The traditional boats are operated by standing captains, who paddle with one foot wrapped around a giant oar while us-ing their other foot for balance. Their free arm flails in a secret rhythm to enhance the motion. We passed fishermen casting nets or baskets, children waving, families enjoying a day on the banks of the shallow river.

The estimated population of 30,000 lives in bamboo and thatched houses built on stilts, neatly constructed and decorated with painted, sculpted or floral detail. Gaily colored rugs

Book my Trip: MyanmarEditorial director Simone Girner visited Myanmar before it became a hot spot, scouting the terrain for our first Indagare Insider Trip to the country, which Melissa Biggs Bradley is hosting in February 2013. This trip, whose itinerary includes behind-the-scenes explorations of Yangon, Bagan and Mandalay with an optional extension to Inle Lake, is sold out but a repeat trip will be offered in November 2013. Contact our Bookings Team for help planning a Myanmar itinerary: 212-988-2611.

“As we came to a clearing, stretched before us were fields filled with towers, stupas, temples and shrines. Baking in the sun, the terra-cotta domes looked formidable, with the occasional alabaster sculpture shining obscenely through its more subdued brethren.”

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dreambook: myanmar

are hung over porches or down walls for decoration and to afford shade. A serene hush pervades. Occasionally, a white or red piece of cloth waving from a wooden pole will signal an “intersection” or blind inlet.

Expertly navigated throughout the Floating Gardens, we made several stops. Besides fisher-men, artisans were the most prevalent work-ers we met. We watched as lotus leaves were stripped and woven into handmade silk scarves in exquisite reds, blues, yellows and greens. Two young girls made a sheet of paper before our eyes, adding fresh flowers plucked from the garden and leaves taken from the lake that were pressed onto the molded sheet for decoration.

A highlight of our watery odyssey was the ancient Bamboo Forest. Within the denseness of bamboo, brush and bramble, a treasure trove of hundreds of stupas, temples and shrines was discovered in the 1960s. We walked over planks and rickety bridges and among sellers of all

things bamboo—hats, sacks, forks and knives and toys—and went deep into the woods. A small group of monks rinsing out their robes created a saffron-colored wash-line by the small stream. We were joined by a group of cows, bells ajingle, urged on by three children who laughed and mugged for our cameras. As we came to a clearing, stretched before us were fields filled with towers, stupas, temples and shrines. Bak-ing in the sun, the terra-cotta domes looked for-midable, with the occasional alabaster sculpture shining obscenely through its more subdued brethren. At a certain point it all became too much—we felt overloaded with images. As we headed back to the tiny dock where our boat was waiting, a shy monk joined us with his wa-ter buffalo. He wanted to see the small camera on which we were recording our experiences. We explained that we were sending the pictures to our grandkids in Pasadena, California—a world away. We had become a captive audience

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to the silence, the joyous setting of the sun and the vastness of this glorious place.

From Inle Lake, a flight took us to Manda-lay, where we boarded The Road to Mandalay, a vessel that sails smoothly up and down the great Irrawaddy River from Mandalay to Bagan. If there is only one reason to go to Myanmar, it is to experience Bagan. It is what Petra is to Jordan, what the Great Wall is to China. The early 11th century was the golden age of Bagan, the ancient capital of the region, when King Anawhrata went on a wild building spree, erecting temple after temple. It is thought that this flat plain, encompassing a mere 26 square miles, at one time was covered with perhaps as many as 13,000 temples, stupas and religious structures. About 2,000 structures remain.

Some are better known and preserved, like the splendid Ananda Temple, with its four gold-en Buddhas. There is one temple from which many enjoy the sunset, one for climbing up and

getting the best view of the surroundings, yet another with the best interior wall carvings and another with exterior carvings. One temple is cool and completely dark until the guard lights up the ceilings, revealing that the place is awash in frescoes. It is a buffet of brilliant architecture.

We took photo after photo thinking that they would help stamp Bagan’s picture on our minds forever, but it is quite impossible to capture the breadth of the place or the aura that the landscape exudes. It is in the mind’s eye that the memory will be sharpest. My fondest memories of the trip will be the young girl who offered me a sweet as a gift, the glorious sunset and ride through the Floating Gardens of Inle Lake, the majesty of Bagan and the lighted temples in Shwedagon. We find that it is always the people who make a place wonderful and ultimately hard to leave. We will always remember the Burmese and their gentleness. And the sweet benevolent smile of the Buddha.

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dreambook: see the world beautiful

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The Beautiful WorldFashion photographer Anne Menke has gone on assignments around the globe, capturing each destination’s unique beauty in her images, now gathered in a book.

Anne Menke, the German-born photog-rapher, has shot fashion for Yves Saint Laurent and Comme des Garçons in

destinations across the globe. But between rigorous production schedules, she always ful-filled her passion for documenting the people, cultures and costumes of these places. Her new book See The World Beautiful (Glitterati, $85) highlights the fashion photographer’s favorite shots from a decades-long career. As described by friend and lifestyle editor Julia Chaplin, “[Anne’s] work documents the far corners, but it’s done with a fresh, accessible casualness. There is no feeling of us and them, high and low.” Menke shared with Indagare some of her images and discussed travel, fashion and some memorable people she has met.

What is the most fascinating destination you’ve visited?My favorite trip, which is actually not docu-mented in the book because I went there on vacation, was to Easter Island. It’s the most beautiful place on the planet. My husband and I first went thirteen years ago for a four-week surfing vacation. People would ask us why we stayed for so long, but we loved it because it gave us the chance to hang out with the locals. Easter Island is the only place I’ve ever been where people don’t just talk about love and peace, they actually live it. I loved that the young people there are learning the Rapa Nui language and embracing their Polynesian roots. While in other places traditions are disappear-ing or even being destroyed, it’s wonderful to see kids embracing their history. I was also so moved by the beauty and light in India and

Mongolia. If I could have made a book only on Mongolia, I would. It’s unimaginable until you are there and living it.

How has travel changed you? Perspectives change in travel. I always find that what we have to complain about pales in com-parison when we see people who have nothing. Since I had my kids, I’ve brought them along on trips quite often. Bringing children hasn’t really changed the way I travel, but being a mother has. My perspectives on the world, on people, on education have shifted. When we moved to Mexico, I realized how terrible public schools can be and what a crucial role education plays—it’s really the only way to make any real changes.

Have you found that the concept of beauty varies as you crisscross the globe?For me, happiness is beauty. An artist’s mood and experiences impacts the mood of their work. I’m a happy person, I have a good time being happy. What I do and what I see has a great influence on my photographs. When I am considering a trip to India for a photo shoot,

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“Beauty is happiness, happiness is beauty. You can find it anywhere, but it helps to have a good pair of walking shoes and a 35mm lens.”

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dreambook: see the world beautiful

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I don’t go to Rajasthan, where many fashion campaigns have been produced. I like to go to places like Varanasi, which is a bit more off the beaten path. I like the more extreme places. Adversity and craziness also creates beauty, in different ways.

SeeTheWorldBeautifulcombines the worlds of fashion, travel and art photography. Did you intentionally create this particular genre or was it a result of the way you work? I have always had the travel bug. Through doing fashion photography I was able to travel while developing my style. After I had been in the business for a while, I was able to request des-tinations for fashion shoots and the magazines would come up with relevant stories. I would frequently integrate local people and their cus-toms into my shoots. For example when I was in Bolivia, I would style a local woman who was wearing a fabulous skirt, with a typical Bolivian hat. I find that these types of influences are what create fashion collections, so there is a good parallel. As I was walking around research-ing, I would take some snapshots, but most of the pictures are more like portraits. It’s every photographer’s dream to do a book like this, so when I felt the time was right I went into the archives and found the classic shots, the images that have stood and will continue to stand the test of time, and compiled them.

You must have developed some great connec-tions with your subjects. Did any stand out?Our guide Mathias in the Andes led us for the five-day hike from nearest city to his home vil-lage. This was my view when I followed him, so I felt the need to capture it. The image is seared in my mind forever.

Read the complete Q&A with Menke on Indagare.com.

dreambook: tuscany

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In an ever-flattening world, it’s increasingly difficult to find unique hotels that are not only in a destination but embody the essence of a place. Castiglion del Bosco, in the rolling hillside of Tuscany’s Montepulciano region, is such a property. Not incidentally, this special place is owned,

and was designed by, one of Italy’s premier fashion families: the Ferragamos. The family name has long been synonymous with gorgeous leather goods and an artisanal, utterly Italian sensibility. This philosophy is also at the heart of Castiglion, a sprawling hilltop estate that has been a passion project for family patriarch Massimo Ferragamo and his wife, Chiara. Together they poured love, style, time and money into creating their vision of the ultimate Tuscan hideaway.

dreaming of TuscanyIndagare’s Monique Brendel visits Castiglion del Bosco, an Indagare Adored property that offers a most inspired—and stylish—interpretation of the Tuscan dream escape.

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destination report: tuscany

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Castiglion InsiderWho Should Stay: Only ninety minutes from Florence, Castiglion del Bosco makes a great stop in a Tuscany itinerary. It’s such a special place that the biggest complaint we have gotten is that people wish they had booked more nights here. It can easily keep everyone entertained for four to five nights.

Room to Get: Although the suites in the borgo are beautiful and great for couples, the spacious villas are the real treasure here. Families with children, friends traveling together and couples looking for a really unique hideaway in particular should consider booking one of these. Indagare’s Monique Brendel visited in the fall of 2012 and is happy to share her favorites.

Indagare Tip: Autumn is a great time to visit. In late September you have the grape harvest and all its wine-based activities; in November white truffle season lures connoisseurs to the area.

Book It: Contact Indagare’s Bookings Team for help arranging a visit to Castiglion del Bosco by calling 212-988-2611.

Only a ninety-minute drive from Florence, Castiglion centers on a historic borgo, which houses several suites and exquisite common spaces. It includes freestanding stone houses, all of which were lovingly restored and turned into villas. Says Massimo: “We were inspired by the beautiful natural surroundings and unspoiled landscape, which also translated into a maniacal desire to restore every building on the estate to its original state, along with adding a contempo-rary sensibility and amenities.”

When it came to furnishing these spacious homes, Chiara Ferragamo and her interior designer went into overdrive, handpicking everything from the lavish fabrics to the an-tique furniture. Each of the villas has its own distinctive look and feel, although all feature the inspired work of modern-day Florentine craftsmen. Take the memorable minibars, which are covered in sumptuous, colorful leather and embossed with the CdB logo. Incidentally, these set pieces are also a great example of style and function working together, as they are stuffed with delicious local products.

As beautiful and comfortable as the suites and villas are, guests are just as spoiled when it comes to on- and off-property activities, all of which make the most of the region’s bounty. During the harvest, guests can sign up for a day in the vineyards and help pick the grapes; it

ends with an estate wine tasting and a picnic. Food plays an important role in the overall ex-perience. The property has two restaurants, one more casual, with incredible wood-oven pizzas, the other more upscale. Vegetables and herbs come from the on-property garden, and guests are encouraged to stop by the kitchen, watch the chefs at work and make requests. Cook-ing classes are also available. When exploring the region, it helps to come from a place that’s Ferragamo-run. Whether it’s a private tour of the excellent Brunello wineries nearby or a falconry and archery adventure for kids, a host of experiences can be organized.

Of course, many guests arrive with the idea of a packed itinerary only to settle quickly into the Castiglion rhythm. Massimo Ferragamo explains his idea of a perfect day this way: “I like to wake up early, have a light breakfast and then go for a two-hour hike with Chiara and our dogs. Then, return and relax by the pool and enjoy a healthy lunch and relax some more. Around 5:00 p.m., I go for a bike ride, and then in the early evening, I like to take my children out around the property to see and photograph some wildlife, which can include deer, wild boar and hare. The best moment of the day is dinner, of course, when we enjoy a glass of Brunello and a not-so-light but delicious meal.” In a word, Tuscany at its finest.

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Souk highlights 2012Thank you to all the vendors who helped make last year’s live events such a success. Here are Indagare favorites, most available at www.indagare.com/souk.

last word

Kenya:EmilyDryerTerrycloth-backed Kikoy beach towels ($58).

Kenya:AdeleDejakDejak flatie brass ring ($20 each).

Kenya:AsheCollectionLove weekend bag in canvas ($300).

Lebanon:CalmKaftan in Egyptian cotton with block print ($250).

Brazil:CeciliaMachadoWoven clutches in vibrant colors ($250).

Philippines:BanagoWoven envelope clutch in wild seagrass ($85).

Philippines:Filip+InnaMulticolored beaded T’Boli belts ($90).

India:JaisalmerArtsEmerald teardrop state-ment earrings ($1,600).

India:AndraabWoven, hand-embroidered cashmere shawl ($950).

Kenya:ShompoleCuff from the Elephant Collection ($1,250).

Italy:L’ArtigianoEbony and rose gold link bracelet ($400).

Kenya:AdeleDejakAyira necklace in bone and brass ($190).

India:LoveGuidesFiona Caufield’s Love Delhi guide book ($40).

Philippines:Filip&InnaEmbroidered red Disini coat ($750).

Kenya:ShompoleBone and gold elephant charm ($300).

India:Bazaar28Reversible block-printed coat ($790).

Issues:2012

37 Yearbook/Dreambook36 highlights of India

35 south africa

34 rome & beyond

33 Istanbul & turkey Itineraries

32 Marrakech & Morocco Itineraries

31 Paris for families

2011

30 the Indagare yearbook

29 Prague & budapest

28 st.-tropez & Provence Itineraries

27 china trio: hong kong, shanghai & beijing

26 florence & tuscany Itineraries

25 the Indagare yearbook

2010

24 aspen

23 buenos aires & argentina Itineraries

22 tanzania

21 venice

20 Peru

19 st. barth’s

To purchase back issues of the Indagare Magazine ($10 apiece), visit the Indagare Souk Site or call 212-988-2611.

copyright © 2013 Indagare travel, Inc. all rights reserved. quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is strictly prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

2009

18 vienna

17 washington, d.c., and Memorable escapes

16 Jackson hole and the american west

15 Amalfi Coast & Capri

14 london and a country escape

13 rio de Janeiro & brazilian escapes

2008

12 turks & caicos

11 Paris: food & style

10 Marrakech

9 nantucket & Martha’s vineyard

8 sydney

7 beijing

2007

6 riviera Maya

5 Miami

4 napa & sonoma

3 rome

2 Istanbul

1 hong kong

Preview:2013

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We believe that travel is not just where you go but how the journeys shape and transform you. ~Indagare Travel Team

To purchase back issues of the Indagare Magazine ($10 apiece), visit the Indagare Souk Site or call 212-988-2611.

copyright © 2013 Indagare travel, Inc. all rights reserved. quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is strictly prohibited without written permission from the publisher.