Circle square

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Forget round pegs and square holes — pearls are the perfect fit for these beaded cubes

designed by Kathleen Burke

BEAD WEAVING / STRINGING

Select crystals for a monochromatic or color-tastic look.

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©2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

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EDITOR’S NOTES:• copy here• copy here – Editor

materialsdescription• 2–3 item• 4 item• item

www To print all materials for this issue, go to BeadAndButton.com/resources, choose this issue, and click the Materi-als List downloadable file.

materialsblue/gray bracelet with nine beaded beads8½–9 in. (21.6–23 cm)• 16 8 mm crystal pearls (Crystazzi, light gray)• 36 6 mm crystal pearls (Crystazzi, light gray)• 80 4 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, heliotrope)• 54 3 mm fire-polished beads (Czech, silver)• 2 3–4 mm round metal beads (silver)• 2 g 110 cylinder beads (Miyuki DB0146, silver-lined smoky amethyst)• 5 g 150 seed beads (Miyuki 452, metallic dark blue iris)• toggle clasp• 2 crimp beads• 2 crimp covers (optional)• Fireline 6 lb. test• beading needles, #10• flexible beading wire, .014–.019• crimping pliers• wire cutters• drinking straw, 6 mm diameter• Bead Stopper or tape

rainbow bracelet colors:• 8 mm crystal pearls (Crystazzi, white)• 6 mm crystal pearls (Crystazzi, white)• 4 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski; fire opal, light sapphire, amethyst, lime, light Siam, blue zircon, light amethyst, capri blue, rose, and light topaz)• 3 mm fire-polished beads (Czech, in colors to match the 4 mm bicones)• 3–4 mm round metal beads (gold)• 80 seed beads, in place of the 4 mm bicones between pearls (gold)• 110 cylinder beads (silver)• 150 seed beads (gold)

stepbystepBeaded beadWork the following steps with tight tension.[1] On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of Fireline, pick up a pattern of a 3 mm fire-polished bead and a 6 mm pearl four times, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through all the beads again to form a ring, and continue through the first 3 mm and pearl (photo a). Place the ring of beads on a 6 mm drinking straw.

[2] Pick up four 150 seed beads, an 110 cylinder bead, and four 150s. Sew through the pearl your thread exited at the start of this step to form a loop around the top of the pearl (photo b). Retrace the thread path through the loop and the pearl, and continue through the next 3 mm and pearl. Repeat this step to form a loop around the top of each pearl. [3] Work as in step 2 to add a loop around the bottom of each pearl (photo c).

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Sew through the first four 150s and cylinder of a loop around the top of a pearl.[4] Pick up five 150s, and sew through the cylinder above the next pearl (photo d). Repeat this step around the top of the pearls, and then sew through all the 150s and cylinders from this step to reinforce the ring.[5] Sew through the bead-work to exit the first four 150s and cylinder of a loop around the bottom of a pearl. Work as in step 4 around the

crystalsmake it with

Square off a set of beaded beads with equally angular bicone crystals, and then soften the lines with round crystal pearls. These unique shapes require consideration: As you string your bracelet, check that it’s long enough to fit around your wrist, and form it into a circle before crimping to ensure there’s enough space between beads for a proper fit.

EDITOR’S NOTE:Even if you don’t normally work tubular beadwork around a form, you’ll want to use one for these beaded beads. Without it, the opening at the top and bottom of the bead won’t be circular. I found a drinking straw works better than a dowel or other solid form; the straw is sturdy enough to support the bead, but its hollow core allows it to be compressed slightly as you work with tight tension. – Stacy

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bottom of the pearls, and then sew through the bead-work to exit a 3 mm.[6] Pick up a 150, a 4 mm bicone crystal, and a 150. Sew through the center 150 in the set of five 150s above the 3 mm (photo e). Pick up a 150, sew back through the bicone, pick up a 150, and sew through the 3 mm in the same direction your thread exited it at the start of this step (photo f). Retrace the thread path through the crystal embellishment, exiting the same 3 mm. Repeat this step, but sew through the center 150 in the set of five 150s below the 3 mm (photo g). Sew through the next pearl and 3 mm.

pair of earrings• 4 8 mm crystal pearls (Swarovski, white)• 8 6 mm crystal pearls (Swarovski, bright gold)• 20 4 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, light rose)• 12 3 mm fire-polished beads (Czech, light rose)• 16 110 cylinder beads (Miyuki DB0913, sparkle salmon-lined topaz)• 2 g 150 seed beads (Miyuki 429, opaque salmon)• 2 2–3-in. (7.6 cm) head pins (gold)• pair of earring findings (gold)• Fireline 6 lb. test• beading needles, #10• chainnose pliers• roundnose pliers• wire cutters• drinking straw, 6 mm diameter

Kathleen Burke took up beading after admiring a handmade — and very blingy! — crystal bracelet at a party. She lives in Portage, Michigan, with her husband, a dog, and a cat who enjoys knocking bead containers on the floor.

To make an earring or a dangle for a clasp: On a 2–3-in. (5–7.6 cm) head pin, string a 4 mm bicone crystal, an 8 mm pearl, a beaded bead, two 3 mm fire-polished beads (to sit inside the beaded bead), an 8 mm pearl, and a 4 mm bicone. Make a plain or wrapped loop (Basics) to attach to an earring finding or clasp.

[7] Repeat step 6 around the beaded bead. End the working thread and tail (Basics).

Bracelet[1] Make nine beaded beads, or as many as desired, keep-ing in mind that their square shape means that the inside diameter of your bracelet will be smaller than the overall length of the piece. My bracelets have nine beaded beads and measure 8½–9 in. (21.6–23 cm) with an inside diameter of 6½–7 in. (16.5–18 cm) when clasped.[2] Cut 12 in. (30 cm) of beading wire. Center the fol-lowing beads: an 8 mm pearl, a beaded bead, two 3 mms (to sit inside the beaded bead),

an 8 mm, a beaded bead, two 3 mms, an 8 mm, a beaded beads, two 3 mms, and an 8 mm. On each end of the wire, string the following pattern three times: a 4 mm bicone, an 8 mm, a beaded bead, two 3 mms, and an 8 mm. Temporarily secure one end of the wire with a Bead Stopper or tape. [3] On the other end, string a 4 mm, a 3–4 mm round bead, a crimp bead, and half of the clasp. Go back through the crimp bead, the round bead, and the 4 mm. Crimp the crimp bead (Basics), and trim the excess wire. Form the strand into a circle, remove the Bead Stopper or tape, and repeat this step on the other end. Close a crimp cover over each crimp if desired. w

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DESIGNER’S NOTES:In steps 2 and 3 of “Beaded bead,” don’t try to speed the process by working two loops around each 6 mm pearl before moving on to the next pearl. The extra thread path created by working step 2 and then step 3 strengthens the inner core of the beaded bead.

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