The Physical Tourist
Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth
Thomas C. O’Connor*
I describe some of the rich physical and natural-philosophy heritage of the urban center ofthe Irish capital Dublin (first tour) and its environs (second tour), in a two-part excursionthat could take between two and eight hours in toto. In terms of history, both tours centeraround the nineteenth century. The first tour is located in and around Trinity College, andwe encounter such personages as William Rowan Hamilton, George Fitzgerald, ErnestWalton, and Erwin Schrodinger, among others. Moving away from Trinity College, thesecond tour explores some of the periphery of the city. I describe the role of politics, money,and religion in shaping the emergence and development of scientific talent among the Irishpeople, and consequently the footprint left by physics in the city today, with its numeroussites and names that put Irish physics in an honorable place among the nations.
Key words: Dublin; nineteenth century; physics; university education; natural
Philosophy; Trinity College; University of Dublin; Catholic University of Ireland.
Historical Setting
Dublin is situated near the middle of the east coast of Ireland, where the river
Liffey empties into the Irish Sea. From the eighth to the eleventh century, it was a
substantial settlement and trading hub for the Norsemen (Vikings). In the twelfth
century, it was the site of the invasion of Ireland by Normans from Britain and
became the center for English rule in Ireland. This rule was gradually extended
from a small dominion or ‘‘Pale’’ around Dublin to other parts of the country, so
that by the end of the sixteenth century Dublin was the capital of Ireland. For
another century the country was in turmoil during the campaigns of Oliver
Cromwell and William III to secure military control of the whole island and set the
landlord classes on the ascendency to rule the country. This enabled Dublin to
develop in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries to the extent that it became
* Thomas C. O’Connor joined the Department of Physics at what is now called the NationalUniversity of Ireland, Galway, in 1956. Upon his retirement in 1996, he continued to workon various projects including the history of science and preservation of instrumentation.When he died, aged 81, after a sudden illness on November 6, 2012, he had almost com-pleted this article, which has been finished for him in his memory.
Phys. Perspect. 16 (2014) 98–128� 2014 Springer Basel
1422-6944/14/010098-31
DOI 10.1007/s00016-014-0131-y Physics in Perspective
98
second to London as the most important city in the growing British Empire. The
city expanded outside its walls with wide streets, elegant Georgian terraced town
houses, pleasant squares, and gardens (figure 1). Some landlords built large
imposing homes such as Leinster House, now the seat of the Irish parliament, and
the government erected many fine public buildings.
Dublin was mainly an administrative center without local energy sources and did
not develop large industries during the Industrial Revolution. It did have breweries
and distilleries, of which Guinness and Jameson were the best known. Throughout
the twentieth century the suburbs expanded to incorporate many villages and
towns. Today, many industries can be found in industrial parks around the city,
including Microsoft in Sandyford, IBM in Damestown, and Intel in Leixlip.
Early History
Sophisticated science and technology have existed in Ireland from the earliest
times. The Neolithic inhabitants of the Boyne valley circa 3000 BC constructed
Fig. 1. The area around Trinity College in Dublin. Source: http://www.tcd.ie/Maps/.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 99
large passage grave mounds involving remarkable skills in astronomy and engi-
neering techniques. One of these, now called Newgrange, is 80 m in diameter and
has a small opening above the entrance to the 20 m passage that allows the rising
sun at the winter solstice to penetrate into the central chamber for a few minutes
every year (figure 2). This predates the pyramids of Giza by about 500 years. The
Treasury of the National Museum contains prehistoric gold ornamentation and
metal work of a high order. During the Christian era, in the sixth to the ninth
centuries, monks produced ecclesiastical metalwork and illuminated manuscripts
of great quality, noteworthy examples being the Ardagh chalice and the Book of
Kells. Monks from Irish monasteries were also noted throughout Europe for their
skills in astronomical calculations, such as in establishing the date of Easter.
Toward the end of the sixteenth century, the civil authorities in Dublin became
more secure and moves were made to establish a university. The land and buildings
of the former Augustinian Priory of All Hallows to the east of the city walls were
given to the city at the dissolution of the monasteries and were designated as the
site for a university. On March 3, 1592, Queen Elizabeth I granted a charter to
create the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, to become the mother of a
university ‘‘with the aim of providing education, training and instruction of youths
and students in the Arts and Faculties… that they may be the better assisted in the
study of the liberal arts and the cultivation of virtue and religion.’’ Now known
formally as Dublin University, and informally as Trinity College, it was to follow
the model of the great English universities of Oxford and Cambridge, though it
Fig. 2. The Neolithic monument Newgrange, in County Meath, Ireland. Credit: Tourism Ireland
Imagery.
100 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
never developed a multiplicity of constituent Colleges. It has been referred to as
‘‘the last of the medieval and the first of the colonial universities.’’1 The early
curriculum consisted mainly of philosophy and theology, while the natural sciences
were ‘‘presented mainly in medieval dress’’ with an emphasis on mathematics. In
1724, the University established the Erasmus Smith Professorship of Natural Phi-
losophy. The first holder of the chair, Richard Helsham (1682–1738, figure 3) held
credentials in medicine, and wrote one of the first textbooks in English on physics.
Lectures on Natural Philosophy (1739). The book, edited by Helsham’s former
student Bryan Robinson, remained a classic for more than a century and ran
through eight editions in Dublin, London, and Philadelphia.
Intellectual Life in Dublin
An idea of the development of Dublin’s intellectual life may be gleaned from the
history of some of its professional and intellectual discussion groups.2 As the main
center of higher education in Dublin, Trinity College provided training for the
professions and was the wellspring for most of the intellectual life in the city. In
1684, William Molyneux (1656–1698), following the example of the Royal Society
in London, set up the ‘‘Dublin Society for the Improving of Natural Knowledge,
Mathematics, and Mechanics’’ to encourage the interest in science in Ireland.
Known as the Dublin Philosophical Society, it met with mixed success and was
abandoned in 1708. Others sought to set up a Fraternity of Physicians at Trinity to
regulate the training of medical doctors, and in 1711 the University established a
medical School of Physic, now known as the School of Medicine. Members of this
Fig. 3. Richard Helsham (1682–1738). Credit: Professor Dennis Weaire, Department of Physics,
Trinity College Dublin.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 101
school participated in founding the Royal College of Physicians in Ireland under a
charter of 1692 and the Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland in 1784, both of
which were independent of the University and continue to provide medical
training, qualifications, and research to the present day.
In 1731, a group of landed gentry and professional men founded the Dublin
Society for ‘‘Improving Husbandry, Manufactures, and other Useful Arts,’’ which
acquired the Royal prefix in 1820, when King George IV (1762–1830) became
patron of the Society. It paid considerable attention to the applied sciences. The
Royal Dublin Society was involved with the foundation of many cultural and
scientific institutions in Ireland and continues to play a prominent role in the
promotion of science in Ireland. In 1785, the Irish Academy was founded to
represent more fundamental and academic scholarship and publish material in
science, antiquities, and polite literature. It received the Royal approval from King
George III in 1786. The Royal Irish Academy continues to be very active today in
most aspects of the sciences and humanities.
Developments in Higher Education
Trinity College was the only university in Ireland for over two hundred years and
still occupies its original site. It had a generally Protestant Anglican ethos. In 1785,
it established an astronomical observatory at Dunsink on a low hill about five
miles outside the north west of the city. This observatory is still operational today.
In 1795 the Irish Parliament—known as Grattan’s Parliament—in Dublin passed
an Act to create an academy ‘‘for the better education of persons professing the
popish or Roman Catholic religion’’ at Maynooth, about 12 miles west of Dublin.
This became Ireland’s national seminary and did not cater to non-clerical students
until recently. It has always had a professor of natural and experimental philos-
ophy or physics.
In 1845, the Government in London set up the Queen’s University of Ireland
(QUI) with constituent Colleges in Belfast, Cork, and Galway to provide non-
denominational third (postsecondary) level education in the provinces of Ireland
outside Dublin. From the outset, each College had a chair of natural philosophy
whose duties included teaching experimental physics and mathematical physics to
advanced classes. Apart from their medical schools, the number of graduates
produced was small.
The Catholic bishops of Ireland responded in 1854 by setting up the Catholic
University of Ireland with John Henry Newman (1801–1890), then a plain priest
and recent convert, as rector. The government provided no official recognition or
financial support for this University, which, apart from its medical school, lan-
guished for want of students. In 1883, its operations, at 84–86 St. Stephen’s Green
in Dublin, were placed in the care of the Jesuit Society and developed as Uni-
versity College Dublin.3 Meanwhile, the Royal Dublin Society was active in
encouraging applied science and industry in Ireland, sponsoring public lectures
102 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
and providing laboratories for research. At the instigation of Robert Kane
(1809–1890), it established a Museum of Irish Industry at 51 St. Stephen’s Green.
In 1867, this was taken over by the government and incorporated into the Royal
College of Science for Ireland, which provided advanced instruction in the applied
sciences, engineering, mining, and agriculture.4
To deal with the Irish University question, in 1880 the government in London
decided to replace the Queen’s University of Ireland with the Royal University of
Ireland (RUI), which had been only an examining and degree-awarding body. It
had substantial premises on Earlsfort Terrace (figure 4) with extensive laborato-
ries that were used only for practical examinations a few times each year. Fellows
of the University could obtain permission to use the laboratory facilities for per-
sonal research at other times of the year. The three Queen’s Colleges and some
denominational educational establishments around the country could prepare
students to take the RUI examinations and obtain degrees. Among the latter were
Magee College in Derry, University College Dublin, St. Patrick’s College May-
nooth, and some large schools and seminaries that were incorporated into the
Catholic University of Ireland.
Further reorganization of the universities took place in 1908 when the Royal
University of Ireland was abolished. The Queen’s College in Belfast became
Fig. 4. The central building at the Royal University of Ireland, now converted into the National
Concert Hall. Credit: Failte Ireland Imagery.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 103
independent as the Queen’s University Belfast (QUB), and the Queen’s Colleges
in Cork and Galway were confederated with University College Dublin to form
the National University of Ireland (NUI). St. Patrick’s College in Maynooth also
became a recognized College of the NUI. In 1996, further developments retained
the NUI, though the individual colleges at Dublin, Cork, Galway, and Maynooth
were given greater autonomy.
Technical education and training were not widespread in Ireland during the
nineteenth century because the country was not heavily industrialized. Mechanics
institutes existed in the larger urban areas. In 1887, the City of Dublin Technical
Institute was established in Kevin Street. Further colleges were established around
the city and developed into the Dublin Institute of Technology (DIT) of today. In
1980, a new National Institute of Higher Education (NIHE) was established to
provide training for new technological disciplines and in 1989 was given university
status as Dublin City University on a campus in the north of the city. Eight
Regional Technical Colleges were set up around the country in the 1960s, which
were upgraded to degree-awarding Institutes of Technology in the 1990s.
In 1940, the Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies (DIAS) was established to
provide advanced research and training in Celtic Studies and Theoretical Physics.
It attracted such scholars as Erwin Schrodinger (1887–1961) and J. L. Synge
(1897–1995). In 1947, a School of Cosmic Physics was established to cover the
areas of Meteorology and Geophysics, Cosmic Rays, and Astrophysics and
Astronomy. In recent decades, with vigorous support from the Government, all
these higher education establishments have increased their research activities,
particularly in the broad areas of biotechnology, photonics, ICT, astrophysics, and
environmental change studies. In addition, many multinational firms in the area of
biopharmacology, computing systems, medical devices, and software have set up
successful manufacturing and research and development facilities in Ireland.
John Tyndall’s Apology and a Delayed Reply
John Tyndall (1820–1893, figure 5)5 is best remembered today as the discoverer of
the greenhouse effect and as the debunker (with Louis Pasteur) of the theory of
spontaneous generation as the cause of epidemic disease. He was from Carlow,
moving to England and Germany after his first education locally. Although he did
not live in Dublin or even in Ireland, after the age of twenty he was an influential
voice on science education throughout the United Kingdom. Let me mention one
episode involving Tyndall to convey some of the complexity surrounding the
development of science in Ireland towards the end of the nineteenth century,
putting as it were a little flesh onto the bare bones of buildings and names.
On Wednesday, August 19, 1874, Tyndall addressed a meeting of the British
Association for the Advancement of Science (BAAS) in Belfast and gave an
inflammatory speech in which he appeared to espouse materialist values; his
speech was angrily denounced by both Protestants and Catholics in Belfast. Some
104 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
months later, Cardinal Paul Cullen of Dublin, through his nephew Bishop Moran,
issued a pastoral address condemning Tyndall as ‘‘professor of materialism.’’ In
reply to his many religious opponents, Cullen in particular, Tyndall published a
thorough Apology for the Belfast Address, where among many other things he
replied to several criticisms and then passed to the attack in the following way:
Before me lies a document bearing the date of November 1873, which, after appearing for a
moment, unaccountably vanished from public view. It is a Memorial addressed, by Seventy of
the Students and Ex-students of the Catholic University in Ireland, to the Episcopal Board of
the University; and it constitutes the plainest and bravest remonstrance ever addressed by Irish
laymen to their spiritual pastors and masters. It expresses the profoundest dissatisfaction with
the curriculum marked out for the students of the University; setting forth the extraordinary
fact that the lecture-list for the faculty of Science, published a month before they wrote, did not
contain the name of a single Professor of the Physical or Natural Sciences.
And further down: ‘‘The memorialists point with bitterness to the fact, that ‘the
name of no Irish Catholic is known in connection with the physical and natural
sciences.’’’
To my knowledge, no direct reply was given to these observations at the time,
but a reply can be simply mounted based on two facts that were no secret to
Tyndall. First, the allegation that ‘‘no Irish Catholic (was) known in connection
with physics and the natural sciences’’ in or around 1874 was simply false, and
Tyndall knew better than going along with the memorialists on this point. He
knew Sir Robert John Kane (1809–1890), Professor of Chemistry in Queen’s
College Cork; Henry Hennessy (1826–1901), physicist and mathematician, Pro-
fessor of Natural Philosophy in the same college and earlier in the Catholic
Fig. 5. John Tyndall (1820–1893). Source: http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/*irlcar2/John_
Tyndall.htm.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 105
University of Ireland (CUI) under Newman; astronomer John Birmingham
(1822–1884), who drew the first catalogue of colored stars; as well as other Irish
Catholic scholars. Second, the comparison between the CUI (as the memorialists
experienced it in 1874) and the University of Dublin was unfair, as if comparing
the strengths of two creatures that were at very different stages in their devel-
opmental histories. TCD had been founded in 1591, the CUI in 1851. The former
had a large grant from the government in London, while the latter was supported
by an impoverished Catholic population. While at the time TCD had between
1000 and 1500 students, the CUI had about twenty. Physics was among the most
expensive subjects to teach, while the humanities were the most inexpensive, so
the choice of subjects for the curricula in the CUI was severely limited, even if they
had had an eminent professor available to them. Throughout the nineteenth
century in Ireland, Catholics in the sciences were indeed a minority, even if
demographically they constituted the majority.
First Tour
First we will take a walking tour in central Dublin. The Liffey flows from west to
east through the center of the city and divides it into the Northside and the
Southside. The principal bridge, O’Connell Bridge, is named after the patriot and
parliamentarian Daniel O’Connell (1775–1848) and has the distinction of being
wider than it is long. Looking along the main thoroughfare, O’Connell Street, we
note Dublin’s Spire, which was erected to mark the Millennium in 2000. It acts as a
point of reference when viewed from various parts of the city. A short walk
southwards along Westmoreland Street leads us to College Green, a busy open
area in front of Trinity College. On one side is the imposing building that func-
tioned as the home of the Irish Parliament until 1800, when it was abolished by
the Act of Union, with Ireland becoming part of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland. This building served as the seat of both chambers
(the Lords and Commons) of the Irish Parliament of the Kingdom of Ireland, and
was the world’s first building designed as a two-chamber parliament house; it is
currently a branch of the Bank of Ireland. Behind us, Dame Street leads west
towards City Hall and Dublin Castle in the heart of the ancient city, once the
financial center of Dublin. To the south, Grafton Street leads to a fashionable
shopping area and the main Dublin tourism center is close by in what was St
Andrew’s Church in Suffolk Street.
Let us now pass through the main gate of Trinity College through the front
building erected in 1779 and enter the Front Square, which retains its old-world
appearance. One may pause to consider how these cobbled stones once felt the
tread of such physicists and mathematicians as Richard Helsham (1672–1731;
though in his case probably not these actual cobblestones), the first Erasmus Smith
Professor of Natural and Experimental Philosophy (as physics was then known)
from 1724, William Rowan Hamilton (1805–1867), James McCullagh (1809–1847),
106 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
Humphrey Lloyd (1880–1881), George Fitzgerald (1851–1901), John Joly
(1857–1933), and Ernest Walton (1903–1995). The gowned and whiskered sons of
an elite have been replaced by a multinational student body more casually dressed,
and with an increasing number of women since Trinity admitted its first women
students in 1904.
Crossing Front or Parliament Square diagonally to the right brings us to the old
library of the College, with its famous Long Room housing over 200,000 of its
older books. As a copyright library, it is entitled to a copy of every publication in
the UK and Ireland after 1801. It now has over four million volumes and also
houses many important ancient manuscripts, including a special exhibition of the
world-famous Book of Kells, a magnificently decorated illuminated copy of the
four Gospels dating from the eighth century. This exhibit is well worth a visit; plan
to spend at least thirty minutes to marvel at the skills of the ancient monks in their
scriptorium. The library also reminds us of the many books produced by Trinity
academics over the centuries, many of them textbooks written in English as a
break with the traditional Latin. Richard Helsham first produced Lectures in
Natural Philosophy in 1739; an edited edition recently appeared in 1999. William
Molyneaux (1656–1698) wrote the Dioptrica Nova, the first optical treatise in
English in 1692, and many others followed. A bookstore makes available some of
the newer ones. Now let us pass on by newer extensions to the Library named after
famous College Fellows: the Berkeley Library, named after George Berkeley
(1685–1753), a philosopher and don who also gave his name to a University in
California; the Lecky library, recalling the noted historian William Lecky
(1838–1903); and the Ussher Library in memory of Archbishop James Ussher
(1581–1656), whose biblical studies led him to conclude that the world began in
4004 BC.
We now come to the Museum Building (1855), with a beautiful, recently
refurbished stone facade. It was designed according to the refined aesthetical
principles of John Ruskin as a fitting home for engineering and science, signaling
their growing importance in the university. It is worth a quick visit to see where
John Joly worked in mineralogy, devising a meldometer to observe the melting
and sublimation behavior of minerals and the use of radiohalos, discolorations due
to radiation damage that form in certain rocks, which can be used to estimate their
age. He also designed a well-known steam calorimeter, developed a process for
color photography, and devised a method for treating cancers with hollow needles
filled with the radioactive gas radon.
Walking on, we enter the beautiful green expanse of College Park, an oasis for
sport in the city center. At the far end, we see the cricket pavilion and its steps,
from which George Francis Fitzgerald once tried to launch himself in flight with a
winged contraption. On the left is the rugby pitch still used by the members of the
second-oldest club in the sport, the Dublin University Rugby Football Club
(DURFC), founded in 1879.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 107
At its end stands the main objective of our visit—the Physics Building (fig-
ure 6). This building opened in 1906 and is now named after G. F. Fitzgerald
(1851–1901, figure 7), the fifteenth Erasmus Smith Professor of Natural Philoso-
phy, who had campaigned strenuously for it but did not live to see it completed.
For the history of the building, and of the subject of physics in the College, the
reader is invited to read Professor Weaire’s recent paper.6 Fitzgerald contributed
two of the three equations central to Einstein’s theory of relativity. He was very
vocal in academic politics and in determined opposition to the second Home Rule
movement. On the wall near the door, we observe the blue commemorative pla-
que to one of his successors, Nobel laureate Ernest T. S. Walton (1903–1995,
figure 8), who shared the 1951 prize with John Cockcroft (1897–1967) as the first to
split the atomic nucleus with artificially accelerated particles in 1932. Walton’s
original accelerator is now in Cambridge. Inside the department, above the elegant
staircase (figure 9), other venerable professors look down on visitors. These
include J. H. Jellett (1817–1888), whose saccharimeter is on display in presses on
the landing, and Humphrey Lloyd (1800–1881), who demonstrated conical
refraction in biaxial crystals and, by what is known as Lloyd’s mirror experiment,
showed that light changes phase on reflection. He is also noted for the develop-
ment of sensitive magnetometers that were used to map variations in terrestrial
magnetism around the world. He built a special magnetic observatory in the
Provost’s garden in 1838, where it stood until it was moved to the grounds of
Fig. 6. The Physics Building at Trinity College. Credit: Professor Denis Weaire.
108 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
University College Dublin in Belfield in 1974. Erwin Schrodinger (figure 10), who
worked here for a period of the Second World War, also looks kindly on us.
The glass cases contain many interesting classical instruments and demonstra-
tion apparatus, including a Wilson cloud chamber. There is a copy of Helsham’s
original lecture notes on physics and a translation of it into Latin, dedicated to
Queen Mary. In a study room is an elaborate wall clock, presented to Fitzgerald by
his students on the occasion of his marriage to Harriette Jellett in 1885. Some of
the laboratories are now devoted to nanotechnology research. On the top floor,
the large physics theater retains many of the original features from 1906. On the
roof, a small observatory was added in 2008 and named after William Monck, an
amateur astronomer who made the first photoelectric measurements of starlight in
his garden at 16 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin in 1896.
Behind the Physics Building is the Sami Nasr Institute of Advanced Materials
(SNIAM) building, which houses modern teaching and research facilities in the
Fig. 7. G. F. Fitzgerald (1851–1901). Credit: Professor Denis Weaire.
Fig. 8. T. S. Walton (1903–1995). Credit: Professor Denis Weaire.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 109
physical and chemical aspects of material science. In the foyer are photographs of
G. F. Fitzgerald’s attempts to fly in College Park during the 1880s. There is also a
model of the Weaire-Phelan tightly packed foam (figure 11) that was used to
construct the roof of the aquatic center for the Olympic Games in Beijing. To
learn more about the historical treasures in the School of Physics and the modern
cutting-edge research in the areas of magnetic, electronic and photonic materials,
nanoscience, foams, surface physics, etc. a visitor must make arrangements in
advance through the school executive officer (see www.tcd.ie/physics).
Emerging from SNIAM, we are surrounded by many new science laboratories
and research institutes, mainly concerned with the life sciences. Crossing under the
elevated railway line, we come to the Science Gallery, where temporary
Fig. 9. The staircase in Trinity College’s physics department. Credit: Professor Denis Weaire.
110 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
exhibitions, aimed at presenting science to the public, are regularly mounted
(www.sciencegallery.ie). We exit on to Pearse Street, turn right at the traffic lights,
and walk under the railway line up to the top of Westland Row, passing a terrace
of Georgian houses that now serve as offices for Trinity College personnel.
Alternatively, we can retrace our steps to the east end of College Park and make
our way to the Parsons Building, named after Charles Parsons (1854–1931),
developer of the steam turbine, and now home to the Department of Mechanical
Fig. 10. Erwin Schrodinger (1887–1961). Source: http://philosophyofscienceportal.blogspot.ie/
2012/11/.
Fig. 11. Model of Weaire-Phelan tightly packed foam. Credit: Professor Denis Weaire.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 111
and Manufacturing Engineering (see figure 1). We can then exit Trinity through
the Lincoln Place gate and turn left to the top of Westland Row.
Crossing the road to Sweny’s pharmacy, we find that it retains many of the
features described in James Joyce’s (1882–1941) novel Ulysses. Passing around the
corner brings us into Merrion Square, one of Dublin’s finest Georgian Squares,
where almost every house has an interesting history. Crossing the street, we find
No. 5, once home to William Stokes (1804–1878), a famous nineteenth-century
physician and member of a very distinguished family. Since 1947, it has been the
home of the School of Cosmic Physics, a part of the Dublin Institute for Advanced
Studies (DIAS). Originally it housed the Cosmic Ray section, where Cormac
O’Ceallaigh (1912–1996) and others studied the primary and secondary particles,
and the Meteorological and Geophysics section, where Leo Pollak (1888–1964)
developed condensation nucleus counters and Thomas Murphy conducted gravi-
metric and magnetic surveys in Ireland. Today it is mainly devoted to seismic
studies and has a small exhibition in memory of Robert Mallet (1810–1881), who
pioneered the measurement of shock waves through the earth and the epicenter of
earthquakes. His name is also displayed in Dublin at the base of the pillars in the
iron railings along the Nassau Street boundary of Trinity College, which were cast
in his family iron foundry on Ryders Row. The Cosmic Ray section of the School
has moved to Fitzwilliam Lane, and currently deals more with fundamental
questions in Astrophysics. The Astronomy section of the School has always
operated from Dunsink Observatory, where it studies solar physics and the for-
mation of stars.
Going back to 1 Merrion Square, we notice a plaque marking the home of Sir
William Wilde (1815–1876). The plaque lists his many accomplishments, among
them having been an eye surgeon famous in the city for his charitable work and the
developer of an effective ophthalmoscope. He was the father of Oscar Wilde
(1854–1900), the playwright and poet whose statue across the road in the corner of
the park is worth a visit to see its artistic use of multicolored stone from around the
world. A stroll across the gardens leads to 65 Merrion Square, where the DIAS
Schools of Celtic Studies and of Theoretical Physics were located from 1940 until
1971, when they both moved to their present location at 10 Burlington Road.
Erwin Schrodinger was a senior professor there from 1940–1956 and Walter
Heitler (1904–1981) also worked there from 1941–1949.
On the West side of Merrion Square is the National Gallery of Ireland, which
exhibits many masterpieces. Behind the lawn stands Leinster House, built as a
town house by the Dukes of Leinster in 1745 and later the home of the Royal
Dublin Society from 1815 to 1924 and the site of the world’s second Great
Industrial Exhibition in 1853. It is now the seat of the Irish parliament (or Dail).
Next is the Natural History Museum, known colloquially as the ‘‘Dead Zoo,’’
which retains many of its original Victorian display cases. Next to that are gov-
ernment buildings housing the offices of the Prime Minister (or Taoiseach) and the
Minister for Finance. Within this complex, behind the gates and under the clock
112 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
tower, is the former Royal College of Science for Ireland, which moved there
when it opened in 1911 and provided much of the facilities for science and engi-
neering in University College Dublin, which took it over in 1926. These facilities
have moved to the new suburban campus at Belfield to make way for Government
offices. The only remaining indication of its scientific past are the statues outside
the main entrance of Robert Boyle (1627–1691) and William Rowan Hamilton
(1805–1865).
Passing on though the traffic lights, we enter Ely Place; the plaque on No. 7 to
the left marks the home of G. F. Fitzgerald, whom we encountered at Trinity
College. His home now houses part of the government’s Parks and Wildlife Ser-
vices offices. Turning into Hume Street, we pass the former Dublin Skin and
Cancer Hospital and come to St. Stephen’s Green, another fine square with a park
in the center. Turning left, we arrive at No. 51, built in 1760 as the town house of
Monck family, and from 1848 the site of the Museum of Irish Industry and the
Museum of Economic Geology, established by Robert Kane (1809–1890) to pro-
mote the economic development of Ireland. In 1867, it was transformed into the
Royal College of Science for Ireland, to provide instruction in matters relating to
Irish industry. Here Walter Hartley (1846–1913) conducted his pioneering
research in spectroscopy, and William Barrett (1844–1925) had what was probably
the first purpose built laboratory for teaching physics in Dublin. When the College
of Science moved to its splendid new premises on Merrion Street in 1911, the
house was taken over by the Commissioners of Public Works; more recently, it has
become part of the Government Department of Justice and Equality. In the
entrance hall are still displayed forty examples of Irish stone such as marble,
including Galway green, Kilkenny black and Cork red, but little else remains of its
scientific past.
Walking up St. Stephen’s Green through the traffic lights, we come to Earlsfort
Terrace. The right-hand side was the site of the Great Industrial Exhibitions of
1865 and 1872. Some of the buildings for these were given to the Royal University
of Ireland (RUI) on its establishment in 1880. The curricula and examinations
were drawn up by senior Fellows of the University who were members of the
teaching staff of some of the third-level educational institutions in Ireland and who
could get permission to use the laboratory facilities for personal research, when
available. This arrangement allowed Thomas Preston (1860–1900) in 1896 to dis-
cover the anomalous Zeeman effect in spectra excited in a magnetic field. It also
enabled John A. McClelland (1870–1920) to carry out his groundbreaking studies
on radioactivity and the scattering of beta rays while a professor of physics at
University College Dublin (UCD). When the RUI was dissolved in 1909 and
replaced by the federal National University of Ireland (NUI), the premises were
given to UCD. These were partially demolished and replaced by the present
building in 1914. McClelland conducted research on atmospheric aerosols and
friction until his death in 1920. His successor John J. Nolan (1887–1952) and his
brother Patrick J. Nolan (1894–1984) carried on research on atmospheric
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 113
electricity. Thomas E. Nevin (1906–1986) led research on molecular spectroscopy
and cosmic rays from the 1930s. As mentioned above, in the 1960s UCD science
departments moved out to a new suburban campus at Belfield. Remaining sections
of UCD moved out to Belfield in 2002. The building is now the National Concert
Hall (figure 4) and little remains of its scientific past except a commemorative
plaque.
Another site in the history of physics and astronomy was 16 Earlsfort Terrace,
the home of the amateur astronomer William Monck (1839–1915). In the garden
behind the house, the first absolute measurement of light from heavenly bodies
were made using a telescope supplied by Monck, a selenium cell invented by an
Irishman George Minchin (1845–1914) in London, together with a sensitive
detector from G. F. Fitzgerald. They were able to show, for instance, that Venus
was 2.5 times brighter than Jupiter. This was the start of stellar photometry. A
plaque on No. 16 commemorates this historic experiment.
We can now return to St. Stephen’s Green and turn left, making our way to
Nos. 84–86, which were the premises used by the Catholic bishops in 1854 to set
up the Catholic University of Ireland (CUI) with John Henry Newman
(1801–1890), who served as Rector until 1858. Having returned to England, he
became a cardinal in 1879 and was beatified by the Roman Catholic Church in
2010. These buildings were also used by University College Dublin, whose first
professor of natural philosophy was Henry Hennessy (1826–1901), a Fellow of
the Royal Society (FRS). He was succeeded by Monsignor Gerard Molloy
(1834–1906), who built up a substantial collection of demonstration apparatus he
used to give popular public lectures on scientific topics. Much of this collection is
preserved in UCD at its new campus in Belfield. At the time, the facilities for
physics laboratories were confined to tin sheds at the rear of No. 85. Molloy
became Rector of the CUI and was followed in 1891 by Thomas Preston, FRS
(1860–1900) as professor of physics. When he died in 1900 he was succeeded by
John A. McClelland, FRS (1870–1920), who, like Preston, did his personal
research in the laboratories of the RUI on Earlsfort Terrace and supervised the
transfer of UCD there in 1909, as well as the building of a new physics
department in 1914. A connection between these premises at the back through
the Iveagh Gardens, now a public park, once belonged to the Earl of Iveagh, a
member of the Guinness family. There is little left of the history of physics, but a
visit next door to the recently restored Byzantine-style chapel built by Newman
is worthwhile.
Crossing the street at the traffic lights, we leave St. Stephen’s Green behind and
enter Cuffe Street. This takes us to Kevin Street Lower, at the end of which is the
site of Dublin’s first Technical Institute. The plaque commemorates Arnold
Graves (1847–1930), who founded this Institute and was known as the ‘‘father of
technical education in Ireland.’’ The current building houses part of the Colleges of
Science and Engineering & Built Environment, within the greatly expanded
Dublin Institute of Technology (DIT).
114 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
Crossing Bride Street into Kevin Street Upper, we can then make a right into
St. Patrick’s Close. Here Ireland’s first public library was founded in 1701, by
Narcissus Marsh (1636–1713), for ‘‘all graduates and gentlemen.’’ It contains a
priceless collection of early books and maps. Marsh was a man with a wide range
of interests, a founding member of the Dublin Philosophical Society, Provost of
Trinity, and Archbishop of Dublin. He is credited with coining the words
‘‘acoustics’’ and ‘‘microphone’’ for sound to correspond to ‘‘optics’’ and ‘‘micro-
scope’’ for light. Shortly beyond the Marsh Library is St. Patrick’s Church of
Ireland Cathedral, where Dean Jonathan Swift (1667–1745) served, whose political
satire Gulliver’s Travels predicted the existence of two moons of Mars 150 years
before they were discovered. He also suggested to his flock that they move to the
suburbs from the city center to avoid the air pollution.
In this part of Dublin, we are close to where many important developments in
the practice of medicine took place in the nineteenth century. The Meath Hospital,
which stood in nearby Heytesbury Street before it moved out to the suburb of
Tallaght in 1998, was a center for innovation in medicine. Here in 1844, Francis
Rynd (1801–1861) performed the world’s first subcutaneous injection and thus
invented the hypodermic syringe. Here too William Stokes (1804–1878) pioneered
the use of the stethoscope in medicine particularly for heart conditions such as
Stokes-Adams syndrome and Cheyne-Stokes respiration. Robert Graves
(1796–1853), Robert Adams (1791–1875), and John Houston (1802–1845) were
others who contributed with Stokes to raise levels of patient care and medical
training that brought international renown to the Dublin School of Medicine in
their time.
Adjacent to the Cathedral, we can walk through historic St. Patrick’s Park and
turn right back on to Bride Street. Taking a left on to Bishop Street brings us past
the National Archive and the DIT campus in Aungier Street. This is a large new
facility on the site of the old Jacob’s biscuit factory. In the nearby Church of the
Carmelite Fathers (in Whitefriars Street) one can find a shrine for the ancient
statue of Our Lady of Dublin and also the relics of Saint Valentine, a Roman
martyr, whose feast day on February 14 has acquired romantic connections in
more recent times.
Across the street is York Street, from which one can enter the newly expanded
medical campus of the Royal College of Surgeons of Ireland (RCSI), founded in
1784 and moved to this location in 1810. A tour of its fine reception rooms under
the gaze of many distinguished past Presidents can be arranged, but a virtual tour
is available on the website www.RCSI.ie in a video entitled ‘‘200 years on St.
Stephen’s Green.’’ Much of the substantial collection of surgical instruments,
including the first practical endoscope invented in 1865 by a physician Francis
Cruise (1834–1912) to look inside a patient’s body, is now on public display in the
new hospital in Beaumount in North Dublin. The library of the College is now
housed nearby in the former Mercer’s Hospital building. Back on St. Stephen’s
Green, we can see the fine facade of the RCSI.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 115
Continuing a walk along St. Stephen’s Green to its north side, we turn down
Dawson Street. On the right hand side is the Mansion House, the official residence
of the Lord Mayor of Dublin. Next door in No. 19 is the Royal Irish Academy,
founded in 1785 to promote the study of ‘‘science, polite literature, and antiquities.’’
It has served these ideals well for over two centuries. It has established National
Committees in many branches of knowledge, and acts as the channel to facilitate
Ireland’s adherence to many international bodies, such as the International Union
of Pure and Applied Physics (IUPAP). It organizes conferences, public lectures,
debates, and study groups on a wide variety of topics. The antiquities that it col-
lected were given to the nation in 1890 for the National Museum of Ireland. The
Academy Library contains a valuable collection of books, pamphlets, and ancient
Irish manuscripts. It is open to the public during normal office hours.
Turning right from Dawson Street into Molesworth Street, one approaches
Leinster House, home of the Parliament of Ireland (an Oireachtas). From 1815 to
1922, this was the headquarters of the Royal Dublin Society, which established
many national cultural institutes nearby. On the right is the archaeological and
historical section of the National Museum, which contains the Treasury, a col-
lection of outstanding examples of metal-workers’ skills from 200 BC to 1100 AD.
Adjacent to the entrance to Leinster House on Kildare Street is the National
Library, a fine building holding many archives and treasures drawn from Ireland’s
literary and historical heritage, but little of specific interest to physicists. Nearby is
the elegant headquarters of the Royal College of Physicians of Ireland (built in
1864), which has tributes to many outstanding Dublin physicians. Making one’s
way back along Nassau Street to the front of Trinity College, we might make a
short excursion up to 56–58 Dawson Street to Hodges Figgis, Ireland’s leading
specialist book shop since 1768. Further on at the corner of Nassau and Grafton
Street was for many years the site of the Yeates family business which manufac-
tured and supplied a variety of scientific instruments. Returning back to Trinity
College, one passes the Provost’s House, built in the eighteenth century by Provost
Francis Andrews, who also founded the Andrews’ chair of astronomy that exists to
this day. William Rowan Hamilton (figure 12), of quaternion fame, occupied this
chair from 1827, at the tender age of 21, to 1865. This completes Tour 1.
Second Tour
Starting at the main entrance with our backs toward Trinity College and facing
Dame Street, we now move away from the center of the city of Dublin into its
more peripheral areas, which are also rich in scientific culture and history. We
enter College Green, where we face the edifice of the Old Irish Parliament
Building (figure 13), built in the neo-classical style, which housed from the early
1780s what was called Grattan’s Parliament. The flowering of Dublin as a leading
city of arts and culture came to an end after the 1798 rebellion and the intro-
duction of the Act of Union of 1800. Rule for Ireland was thereby centralized to
116 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
London for over 120 years. The Irish Parliament had housed both a House of
Commons and Lords. Many Irish landowning aristocrats had palatial town houses
in the city to allow them take up their seats in the House of Lords. These resident
aristocrats brought elegance and a spirit of civic pride to the city. After the Act of
Union, they decamped to London and the development of arts and sciences which
had marked the second half of the eighteenth century in Dublin came to an end.
The building is now home to the Bank of Ireland, and has been since the Bank
bought the magnificent Parliament building in the early 1800s. The House of Lords
is open to the public and provides an insight into the splendor of the age.
Leaving the Parliament Building and proceeding up Dame Street, we reach
City Hall (figure 14), once the Royal Exchange and now the home of Dublin City
Council, the center of Dublin’s local administration. The Dublin City Council was
for many years referred to as Dublin Corporation, or by Dubliners as the ‘‘Corpo,’’
and is housed in a neoclassical building, the preferred architectural style of eigh-
teenth-century Dublin. The Corporation was responsible for the orderly
administration of the Capital’s local government, making by-laws for the benefit of
the citizens. The Corporation fostered the development of the practical use of
science in the city. It appointed a Public Analyst in 1862—one of the first three
such positions in the UK and Ireland, the others being London and Birmingham.
The first Public Analyst was Sir Charles Cameron (1830–1921). In the late nine-
teenth century, Dublin had the distinction of having the highest death rate in
Europe. The death rate from infectious diseases was nine per 1000 in 1879. By
Fig. 12. William Rowan Hamilton (1805–1865). Credit: Professor Denis Weaire.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 117
1900, this had dropped to one per 1000. The slums of the city of Dublin were
among the worst in Europe in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. The
drop in the death rate has been credited to Sir Charles Cameron and advances in
public hygiene. He was a true polymath, a medical doctor, a professor of chemistry
and natural philosophy at various Dublin medical colleges, and a father of the use
of chemistry in agriculture; he was also a statistician and a founding member of the
Royal Institute of Public Health. Concurrent with his medical work, he also per-
formed chemical experiments; in 1857, he proved that the nitrogen from plants
could be wholly derived from urea.
Just across the cobbles from Dublin City Hall is the pristine whiteness of the
Newcomen Bank. This building was designed by the famous Irish architect Tho-
mas Ivory (1732–1786) and now houses the Rates section of Dublin City Council.
Born in Cork and apprenticed initially to a carpenter, Ivory completed his
apprenticeship in Dublin. There he was drawn to architecture, his master in this
subject being a certain Jonas Blaymire (d. 1763), a surveyor, measurer, and
technical draftsman. After his training, Ivory was recognized as the preeminent
draftsman in Dublin. Such was his skill that he was selected by the Dublin Society
as the headmaster of the Society’s drawing school, where twenty indigent boys
were trained in the principles of geometry, rules of perspective, and elements of
architecture. His most notable pupil was James Hoban (c. 1758–1831), who
became apprenticed to Ivory between approximately 1779 and 1785 and was later
renowned as the architect of the White House in Washington, DC.
We now reach Dublin Castle (figure 15), sequestered in its own grounds, the
center of the English administration of Ireland until Irish independence. This was
the royal residence in Ireland, where a court attended on the Viceroy of Ireland.
This was a center of intrigue, espionage, rebellion, establishment, power, and
Fig. 13. The Old Irish Parliament Building. Source: http://www.politics.ie/forum/culture-
community/213215-move-dail-grattans-parliament-building.html.
118 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
treason, whose roots are ancient, beginning in Norman times (1204) as part of the
fortification of the city of Dublin. Today these public buildings house the State
Apartments, including St. Patrick’s Hall, where the Irish President is inaugurated.
Conference facilities established here are used particularly when Ireland has the
presidency of the EU. Many international science conferences have been hosted
here.
Fig. 14. Dublin City Hall. Credit: Failte Ireland Imagery.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 119
Dublin Castle is currently home to three museums: An Garda Siochana (Police)
Museum, the Revenue Museum, and the Chester Beatty Library. The Revenue
Museum is interesting for its exposition of the scientific method employed by
excise officials in ascertaining the volume present in alcohol from early times. This
Fig. 15. Dublin Castle. Source: http://www.travelsinireland.com/dublin/castle.htm.
120 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
museum also shows audiovisual displays of scientific testing for the presence of
drugs and adulterated diesel. The museum outlines the development of the col-
lection of taxes in Ireland from Viking times to the present day, where one of the
most successful online tax collection systems in the world is in existence. The
museum emphasizes the mathematical abilities of the Revenue officials of the late
nineteenth and early twentieth century, who were required to have great facility
with mathematics and an ability to rapidly compute quite complex calculations.
Some of the measuring and scientific equipment utilized by Revenue is on display.
Leaving the museum, we are reminded of Benjamin Franklin’s comment that in
this world nothing can be said to be certain except death and taxes.
The Chester Beatty Library (figure 16) is one of the most important manuscript
collections in the world. The eponymous donor (1875–1968), an Irish American
mining engineer and copper magnate, gave a spectacular collection of Arabic and
Oriental manuscripts, as well as early European works, to Ireland. The Arabic
collection contains manuscripts of Arabic science, some dating back as far as the
ninth century AD. These ancient texts are important in that they provide a bridge
between the Renaissance and the science of the classical world. These texts
include a treatise on surgery by Al Zahrawi, the greatest medieval surgeon of the
Islamic world, and an encyclopedia of medicine by Ibn Sina that provides a
complete system of medicine according to the principles of Hippocrates and
Galen. There are texts from the ‘‘House of Wisdom’’ in Baghdad which collected,
Fig. 16. The Chester Beatty Library. Source: http://www.geograph.ie/photo/1839693.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 121
translated, and interpreted Greek, Persian, and Indian texts. The collection also
includes early European printed books of scientific interest, for example, On
Military Matters by Roberto Valtarion (1413–1489), the first printed book with
technical or scientific illustrations. In addition, the collection houses very early
fragments of the Bible.
Leaving Dublin Castle by the gate we entered, we progress up Dame Street to
be greeted by the sight of Christ Church Cathedral (figure 17). We are now in the
heart of the medieval capital of Dublin, first populated as a Viking stronghold.
Beside the ecclesiastical buildings of Christchurch are the Dublin Civic Offices—
modern buildings built over Wood Quay, the center of Viking Dublin. The
technology of the Vikings reached its apex in their seafaring ability and one of the
largest Viking Longships in existence was recovered in Denmark near Roskilde in
1962. Named Skuldelev 2, it was built of Irish oak somewhere near Dublin and has
been dated to 1042. The way the ship was built and shaped allowed for speeds of
up to 28 km/hr and had a crew of 60. The shipwrights of Dublin were greatly
skilled in this era, possessing a great understanding of the dynamics of sea travel
and able to design oceangoing ships to cope with the harsh climatic conditions of
the northern seas.
We are now in a supremely historic part of Dublin. The Cathedral was founded
by Dunan, the first Bishop of Dublin, and King Sitric Silkbeard around 1030 AD.
Fig. 17. Christ Church Cathedral. Source: http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christ_Church_Cathedral,_
Dublin.
122 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
It contains the tomb of Strongbow, the Norman conquerer of part of Ireland. Here
the pretender Lambert Simnel was crowned and Mass was said for King James II
of England before the battle of the Boyne. In 1742, just around the corner on
Fishamble Street, Handel’s Messiah was performed for the first time by the
cathedral choir. The Cathedral is linked to the Dublinia exhibition, which brings
Viking and medieval Dublin to life.
Past Christ Church on the left is the Tailor’s Hall, the last of the medieval guild
halls left in the city of Dublin. Established in 1706, the hall was the meeting place
of the Guild of Merchant Tailors from 1706 to 1841. It is now the headquarters of
An Taisce, the National Trust for Ireland. An Taisce was founded in 1948 by
Robert Lloyd Praeger, one of Ireland’s preeminent naturalists. By profession an
engineer, by inclination a naturalist, he was responsible for the organization of the
Clare Island Survey in 1909, whose multidisciplinary approach was the first of its
kind in the world, linking the local geology and archeology to the biology of the
area. An Taisce helps support the protection of Ireland’s scientific heritage.
Also in this area is the oldest church in Dublin, St. Audoen’s, which is on the
same side as Christ Church Cathedral and was the medieval parish church of
Dublin, today a museum. Cornmarket, just adjacent, was once the location of the
Public Analyst’s Laboratory. Beside St Audeon’s Church lie the remains of the
medieval walls of Dublin. Proceeding down Thomas Street from Cornmarket we
come to the Liberties, an area of Dublin once populated by the artisan class,
including weavers. Dublin was indeed once renowned for its craftspersons and
artisans. In the eighteenth century it was well known for clockmaking, and this
tradition branched out into the development of world-class scientific instruments.
Families involved in this trade included the Lynches, the Masons, and the Yeates.
About 2.8 km from where we are now was the factory of Thomas Grubb
(1800–1878) and his son Howard Grubb (1844–1931), Ireland’s most important
scientific instrument makers. The company was at the cutting edge of the devel-
opment of optical instruments. Innovations for large telescopes devised by
Thomas Grubb included clock-driven polar mounts. In 1845, the company assisted
in the construction of a 72-inch ‘‘Leviathan’’ telescope for the third Earl of Rosse
(1800–1867) at Birr Castle in County Offaly, then called King’s County. It was the
largest telescope in the world until 1917 and assisted Lord Rosse’s discovery of the
Whirlpool Nebula.
Walking down Thomas Street, we pass the John’s Lane Church on the right and
St. Catherine’s Church on the left before arriving at the Guinness brewery. For
generations, Guinness has been a symbol of Dublin; indeed, the black pint with the
foamy head could be classified as the national beverage. The brewery was founded
here at St. James’ Gate in 1759 by Arthur Guinness, a brewer from County Kildare,
The brewery became one of the largest industrial premises in Ireland, with its own
interior tram line. By the early twentieth century, Guinness also had a scientific
team in its employ. Perhaps the most famous scientist to work in the Guinness
factory was William S. Gosset (1876–1937), who earned a degree in chemistry at
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 123
Oxford and joined the factory in 1889. His work for Guinness led him to investigate
the statistical value of results obtained from small samples, and he went on to
develop the ‘‘Student-t’’ test or distribution. His work fostered the concept of
quality control. He also independently discovered the Poisson distribution while
dealing with yeast cells, showing its application to biological processes.
At the bottom of Thomas Street we turn right, following the tram lines of the
Luas, Dublin’s light rail system, past the gates of St Patrick’s Hospital. This
institution was founded by Jonathan Swift, who left a bequest in his will for its
establishment. It was one of the first hospitals specifically built to house psychiatric
patients in the world. In ‘‘Verses on the Death of Dr. Swift,’’ the Irish satirist
foretastes his own death:
He gave the little Wealth he had,
To build a House for Fools and Mad:
And shew’d by one satyric Touch,
No Nation wanted it so much…Today it is still in use as a teaching hospital, attached to Trinity College. One of its
most eminent Professors was Dr. Anthony Clare, the voice for many years of the
BBC scientific program ‘‘QED.’’
At the bottom of the hill is Dr. Steeven’s Hospital, another edifice of the
Golden Age of Irish Medicine, from 1750 to 1850. The physicist John Joly, a
governor of the Hospital, pioneered the method of extracting radium and using it
to treat cancer. He was instrumental in using long hollow needles for deep
radiotherapy, called the Dublin method, which was eventually used worldwide.
The hospital was also the site of the first X-ray in Ireland, performed by Richard
McCausland in 1895.
The hospital’s Worth Library was donated by a prominent Irish physician, Dr.
Edward Worth. Housed in Dr Steeven’s Hospital in a specially provided room, it
contains a magnificent collection of scientific books, including a first edition of the
‘‘Sceptical Chemist,’’ Robert Boyle’s plea to early chemists to conduct experi-
ments. The book outlined his hypotheses ‘‘that matter consisted of atoms and
clusters of atoms in motion.’’ There are only thirty-five copies of this edition
extant. Boyle, an Irishman and son of the Earl of Cork, is known as the ‘‘father of
chemistry’’ and was the originator of Boyle’s Law. Other books in the collection
include Isaac Newton’s Principia. Worth collected not one but two copies of this
book, a copy of the second edition printed at Cambridge in 1713 and a copy of the
third edition printed in London in 1726. The Worth collection highlights the
interest of Dubliners in the new scientific discoveries of the late seventeenth and
early eighteenth centuries. The library also contains copies of the first English and
Latin editions of Opticks by Newton, a first edition of Newton’s Arithmetica
Universalis, commentaries on Newton’s works, and works by Galileo.
Opposite the eighteenth century building of Dr. Steeven’s Hospital is the
nineteenth-century terminus of the Great Southern Railway, which links the cities
of Dublin and Cork and all places between, with branching lines to Limerick,
124 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
Waterford, Killarney, and Tralee. The railway revolution in Ireland owes much to
William Dargan (figure 18, 1799–1867) the son of a small tenant farmer from the
borders of County Carlow and County Laois who became a surveyor. He was the
contractor primarily responsible for the construction of the first commercial line
between Dublin’s city center and Kingstown port (now Dun Laoghaire), which
commenced in 1831. Having a great aptitude for mathematics, Dargon was
apprenticed to a surveyor and completed his education in England. He was
involved with George Stephenson’s pioneering ‘‘Rocket’’ project and worked with
the civil engineer Thomas Telford on developing the Holyhead Road. He became
an immensely successful railway contractor in Ireland, and by 1853 had been
responsible for 600 miles of railway.
Dargan was also a philanthropist who sought to develop an interest in sci-
ence and technology in Ireland. He helped establish the National Gallery of
Ireland and to fund the Dublin Industrial Exhibition of 1853 held at the Royal
Dublin Society. This exhibition, Ireland’s response to the Great Exhibition of
1851 in London, sought to showcase Ireland’s industrial development. Dargan
became a very wealthy man and was regarded as a generous and fair employer,
though he eventually lost most of his wealth through poor investment and ill
health.
We now progress across an iron bridge that carries the Luas light rail system.
The bridge was designed by George Papworth and construction was completed in
1828. The iron castings for the bridge were produced at the Royal Phoenix Iron
Fig. 18. William Dargan (1799–1867). Source: http://rds-speaker-series-fergus-mulligan-heritage-
william-/E0-001-060631847-0.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 125
Works of nearby Parkgate Street. It was initially named Kingsbridge to com-
memorate a visit of King George IV, but was renamed Heuston Bridge after an
Irish patriot of the 1916 uprising. Heuston Station is now regarded as one of the
city’s finest buildings.
Phoenix Park is the headquarters of the Ordnance Survey of Ireland, which is
situated at Montague House, toward the Parkgate Street entrance to the Park.
Phoenix Park is a magnificent public space that was once the King’s Deer Park. It
now houses Aras an Uachtarain, the Irish President’s residence, as well as a zoo
that is the fifth oldest in the world, as well as numerous sports and leisure facilities.
The office of Ordnance Survey, initially attached to the military, was created to
survey the whole of Ireland to update land valuations. The survey was carried out
at a scale of 6 inches to 1 mile, completed in 1846 under the direction of Major
General Colby. Ireland thus became the first country in the world to be mapped at
such a detailed scale. In the course of surveying the country, the Office was
responsible for a number of advances in surveying practice.
One early recruit to the Ordnance Survey was the aforementioned John Tyn-
dall, but he appears to have worked not in Dublin but in Youghal and Kinsale in
Cork, then moved to Preston in England (1841–1842). There he studied at night at
the local mechanics institute. He completed his PhD in Marburg, Germany under
Robert Bunsen. He returned to England and through his brilliance at lecturing and
teaching was appointed to the professorship at the Royal Institution, succeeding to
the post held by Michael Faraday. His major scientific interest was the interaction
of light with matter, particularly gases, and he explained why the sky is blue. He
developed the first double beam spectrophotometer as well as a light pipe, a
precursor to optical fibers. Tyndall also made some of the first studies of atmo-
spheric pollution in London, and developed with Louis Pasteur a form of food
purification known as tyndallisation.
While on this looped walk back to the city center, we will not have ventured
into the suburbs. Yet at the end of the Phoenix Park lies the suburb of Cas-
tleknock, and some 5 km from Parkgate Street is the observatory at Dunsink
(figure 19), the first building built exclusively for science in Ireland. This was the
observatory of Trinity College and the home of the Astronomer Royal for
Ireland; it houses a Grubb telescope now operated by the Dublin Institute of
Advanced Studies (DIAS). The most famous professor of astronomy to be based
and live here was William Rowan Hamilton (1805–1864), who introduced the
terms ‘‘scalar’’ and ‘‘vector’’ to mathematics and invented quaternions. On
October 16, 1843, while crossing Broom Bridge (figure 20) in the nearby suburb
of Cabra, the idea for quaternions came to Hamilton, who carved the basic
formula into the bridge’s stone foundations; the event is commemorated with a
plaque on the bridge and an annual walk from Dunsink. This moment of
inspiration and bold inscription might serve as a fitting close to our walks
through Dublin.
126 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.
Fig. 19. The observatory at Dunsink. Source: http://ingeniousireland.ie.
Fig. 20. The Broom Bridge. Source: http://curvebank.calstatela.edu/hamilton/hamilton.htm.
Vol. 16 (2014) Daedalus in Dublin: A Physicist’s Labyrinth 127
Acknowledgements
Dr. Thomas C. O’Connor died on November 6, 2012, leaving this manuscript
nearly complete. Some editing work was done by Martine O’Connor, Christopher
Noonan, and Miguel DeArce. Professor Denis Weaire, of the Department of
Physics, Trinity College Dublin, kindly provided many of the illustrations. We are
also grateful to Failte Ireland and Tourism Ireland Imagery for the illustrations
referring to the city of Dublin. Finally, the editors are grateful to Edward Sweeney
of The National Institute for Transport & Logistics (NITL), who took the time not
only to read the manuscript with care, but also to follow out the routes, noting
corrections where necessary.
References1 For the academic history of Trinity College, we recommend R. B. McDowell and D.A. Webb,
Trinity College Dublin 1592-1952: An Academic History (Dublin: Trinity College Dublin Press,
2004).2 For a new focus on the development of science in Ireland under the Union see Nicholas Smyth
Science, Colonialism, and Ireland (Cork: Cork University Press 1999).3 For the complex early development of the Catholic University of Ireland after John Henry
Newman, see Thomas J. Morrissey. Towards a National University: William Delaney SJ (1835–
1924) (Dublin: Wolfhound Press, 1988).4 For insight into the complex relationships between the Royal Dublin Society and Trinity College
in the early 1830s, when both institutions were vying for support from the British Government for
technical education in Ireland, see Norman MacMillan, ed., Prometheus’s Fire: A History of
Scientific and Technical Education in Ireland (Dublin: Tyndall Publications, 2000).5 A scholarly evaluation of John Tyndall’s impact on natural philosophy and modern physics can
be found in William Brock, Norman MacMillan and Charles Mollan, ed., John Tyndall: Essays on
a Natural Philosopher (Dublin: Royal Dublin Society, 1981).6 Denis Weaire, Experimental Physics at Trinity College. In H. Holland H., ed., Trinity College
Dublin: The Idea of a University (Dublin: TCD Press, 1992).
128 T. C. O’Connor Phys. Perspect.