Download ppt - Digital Knitting A New Perspective for Knitting Industry

Digital KnittingDigital KnittingA New Perspective for Knitting A New Perspective for Knitting

IndustryIndustry

Digital KnittingDigital KnittingA New Perspective for Knitting A New Perspective for Knitting

IndustryIndustry

Jimmy K.C. Lam., Jin-yun ZhouJimmy K.C. Lam., Jin-yun ZhouInstitute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

The Hong Kong Polytechnic UniversityThe Hong Kong Polytechnic University

AUTEX 2009 World Textile Conference, 26-28 May 2009, Izmir, Turkey

2

Outlines• Introduction and Background• SDS-One Design Concept• Yarn and Textile Design from SDS-ONE• Knitted Stitch Design and Loop

Simulation• Knit CAD System• Garment Simulation and Mesh Mapping• Whole Garment Making Concept• Conclusions


3

Introduction & Backgrounds 1

• Since the introduction of seamless garment knitting techniques on V-bed machines in 1995, this technology has been considered an innovative process and is currently growing in its commercial application around the world (1)

• By eliminating the cutting and sewing processes, complete garment knitting provides a variety of advantages of knitting production such as savings in cost and time, higher productivity, quick response production (2,3,4)


4

Evolution of modern flat-bed knitting


5


• Recent ITMA exhibition in Munch (5) showed that both Stoll and Shima Seiki continue to advance their technology on computer knitting on flat bed industry.

• The new M1 Plus from Stoll CAD system integrates knit editor, knit shaper, Sintral Checker and Knit and Wear module into one seamless CAD/CAM design centre.

• Shima Seiki also develops her own SDS-ONE-APEX CAD/Cam system and offers true 3D visual knitting from fabric design, visual knitting and fabric simulation to 3-D whole garment knitting.


6


• This paper discusses the latest development from Shima Seiki on digital knitting in SDS-ONE design system.

• The whole paper will be divided into five sections.– Section one: The concept of virtual sampling;– Section two: Yarn and textile design;– Section three: knitted stitch design and loop

simulation;– Section four: Knit-CAD system;– Section five: Garment Simulation and Mesh Mapping

Section OneSection OneSection OneSection One

SDS-ONE Design Concept- an SDS-ONE Design Concept- an integrated approachintegrated approach


8

SDS-ONE Design Concept• SDS-ONE is the “all-in-one” apparel design tool

that directly turns the designer’s concepts and ideals into products.

• All information that is necessary for apparel production, from product planning, designing, sample production, manufacturing through to product promotion integrated in one.

• SDS-ONE is also a communication tool for bringing together people and ideas from different areas of fashion industry. From the yarn maker, apparel planner, designer, knitter, merchandiser and retailer, design decision and concept can be communicated throughout the supply chain.


9

Integrated approach from SDS-ONE CAD system


10

• One of the advantages of SDS-ONE is the “virtual sample production”.

• Conventional time-consuming sample making is eliminated.

• Product sample is created on this system directly with a wide spectrum of functions.

• Repeated simulation is possible (for different yarn, colour, stitch density) which can significantly reduce the production lead time.

Section TwoSection TwoSection TwoSection Two

Yarn and Textile Design from Yarn and Textile Design from SDS-ONE systemSDS-ONE system


12

Yarn and Textile DesignYarn Design• SDS-ONE starts the design from material, the

virtual knitted yarn• Special functions like “yarn twisting”, “slub”,

melange”, “space dyeing” or scanning directly from knitted yarn are available.

• Yarn can be controlled by thickness, hairiness, twisting to simulate different texture on a virtual knitted fabric.

• Real yarn can be input directly from SDS-ONE with its unique two pass scanning system.


13

Yarn Design from SDS-ONE system


14

Yarn and Textile DesignTextile Design• SDS-ONE comes with library to generate

different design from simple, basic motif.• It allows the creativity of designer by

experiments with different automated generated pattern such as “polka dota”, “argle”, “stripe”, “kaleido”, “wave and whirl” and “ mandel”.

• Data can be used for jacquard, intarsia, and even fed into on demand printing system to be printed directly onto knitwear.


15

Pattern Design from SDS-ONE

Section ThreeSection ThreeSection ThreeSection Three

Knit Stitch Design and Loop Knit Stitch Design and Loop SimulationSimulation


17

Knitted Stitch Design and Loop Simulation

• The SDS-ONE CAD system holds abundant structure pattern enables the simulated of varied knitted pattern.

• All those simulated images (visual knitting) will be automatic converted into Shima Seiki knitting language (colour control and option line for machine control).


18

Knitted Structure Library in SDS-ONE


19

Knitted Stitch Design and Loop Simulation

Loop Simulation• Loop simulation allows quick evaluation of

virtual knitwear without sample making.• Various simulation can be done for Whole

Garment, conventional flat bed knitting.• Knit design created in Design program is

automatically converted into knit programme data so that designer and technician can keep in close communication.


20

Loop Simulation under SDS-ONE system

Section FourSection FourSection FourSection Four

Knit CAD systemKnit CAD system


22

Knit CAD system• The Knit CAD system under SDS-ONE

converts the designer concept from virtual loop simulation into different knitting instructions for Shima Seiki.

• No programming language is required as the automatic software from Knit CAD system convert the entire package directly into knitting language for Shima machine.


23

Package generation under Knit CAD automatic software

Section FiveSection FiveSection FiveSection Five

Garment Simulation and Mesh Garment Simulation and Mesh MappingMapping


25

Garment Simulation and Mesh Mapping

• Realistic 3D garment simulation can be done directly on SDS-ONE system before actual production.

• Different effect (lighting, texture, colour) can be controlled for simulation and mapping.


26

Temple Mapping for Quick Simulation


27

Garment Simulation under SDS-ONE system

Original Photo Mesh Mapping with simulated fabric


28

Whole Garment Production Concept

• This knitting technology enables knitting of finished articles in a full fashion shape. This means, for example, that entire sweaters can be knit and worn immediately without additional sewing work after removal from the machine.

• With knit and wear the individual body and sleeve parts are knit like a tube in the proper shape. These individual parts are knit together in the machine with widening, narrowing and certain binding-off techniques so that a finished article of clothing is produced.


29

Whole Garment MakingThree separate tubes are created

for WG


30

These three tubes are combined into one for further knitting


31

V-neck is formed by separated knitting with 3

feeders


32

Conclusions• This paper reviewed the new digital CAD

development cycle for SDS-ONE Shima Seiki system on electronic V-bed knitting machine.

• The new system combines the yarn design, fabric design, knit loop simulation into one integrated CAD system.

• The CAD solution can be either directly output to Shima Seiki knitting machine for production (Knit CAD software) or indirectly display on computer monitor for 3D virtual garment simulation with different texture or mesh mapping technique.

• The new digital CAD system today can significantly shorten the development and production cycle for knitwear industry.


33

Acknowledgements• The authors like to thank for the

Institute of Textiles & Clothing, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University for staff development funding for this conference.