Download pdf - Fine Foodies Spring 2012

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Plus:] DELI DELIGHTS] SEASONS IN GREECE] MARY BERRY’S TOP RECIPES

Fine FoodiesPassionate about good food

Spring 2012

Pick up your free

foodie magazine

INTERVIEW

MICHEL ROUX JR ON LIFE IN THE FAMOUS CULINARY DYNASTY

MICHEL ROUX JR ON

The RouxlegacyThe Rouxlegacy

BE INSPIRED BY THE TV CHEF’S INDIAN

ADVENTURE

GordonRamsay’s

Indian adventure

GordonRamsay’s

Indian adventure

Plus: DELI DELIGHTS ] SEASONS IN GREECE ] MARY BERRY’S TOP RECIPES ]

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Pg 2 - Natures Path FPC.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:34

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Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Essex CM22 6HJTelephone: 01279 816300www.finefoodiesmag.com

Editor: Rachel Symonds e: [email protected] t: 01279 810088

Contributors: Jennifer Britt, Jane Baxter, Aglaia Kremezi

Sub Editor: Jeff Munn-Giddings

Group Commercial Manager: Ruth Gilmour e: [email protected] t: 01279 810084

Sales Executives: Ben Brooks e: [email protected] t: 01279 810068

Production Daniella Randazzo e: [email protected] t: 01279 810097

Design Clare Holland e: [email protected]

Administration/Distribution Julie Torkington e: [email protected] t: 01279 810072

Accounts Lorraine Evans e: [email protected] t: 01279 816300

Managing Director David Cann e: [email protected]

ISSN 2046-438XPublished by Target Publishing Limited. Printed in

the UK by The Magazine Printing Company plc www.magprint.co.uk ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material in accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004.

Fine FoodiesPassionate about good food T

his issue I had the pleasure of interviewing the popular chef and, increasingly, TV personality, Michel Roux Jr.

Michel Jr is one of a number of top chefs who make up the Roux culinary dynasty and to say this family is talented when it comes to food is something of an understatement.

Michel Jr talked to me about his early food memories and the things that influenced him in the

kitchen, and this got me thinking about the rest of us. Clearly, we don’t all come from such a famed food family and with a father such as Albert Roux as a mentor, but what’s true for all of us is that our early memories shape how we view things in later life, and this includes our attitude to food.

If, for instance, you have grown up with fast food being the norm, where everything comes from the freezer and nothing is cooked from scratch, it’s quite likely this will carry through into our adult lives. Equally, if we have never been shown the basic skills of cooking, we don’t understand how different ingredients work together and simply don’t realise how cost effective home cooking is then why would we be a keen cook?

One of the aims of Fine Foodies is to show readers that cooking from scratch, using wholesome, fresh ingredients is easy to do and can be far more economical than living off convenience foods. This is especially the case when we choose foods that are in season in the UK, which haven’t had to be flown halfway across the world. This issue is the turn of the leek, a very versatile vegetable that can be included in plenty of dishes. Turn to page 22 for advice from the Riverford Kitchen about how you can cook up some simple dishes.

Also in this issue, Mary Berry offers us some sumptuous, yet pretty simple recipes, developed over a career spanning some deacdes, or if you fancy something a little spicier, turn to page 26 where Gordon Ramsay whets the appetite following his journey through India.

I hope this has given you some food for thought and gets you inspired to get into the kitchen. It’s always great to hear what our readers think of Fine Foodies. Whether it’s a cooking tip for your fellow readers, to reporting a recipe that turned out really well (or not!) or simply to shout about how great your local store is, I’d love to hear from you. Why not drop me an email at [email protected] or log onto our Twitter page @finefoodies – you never know, your thoughts may be next issue’s star letter and you could bag a prize as a reward. Rachel

RACHEL SyMONDS

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES �

Welcome

contents.indd 3 7/3/12 10:40:54

ContentsProduct news

� FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

COvEr StOry

12 Michel Roux Jr The celebrated chef on his early

food memories, learning his trade away from the family, and his remaining ambitions

FEaturES

18 Food focus From the deli – Jennifer Britt explores

a sumptuous selection of foods from the deli counter

26 Recipe Indian-inspired recipes from Gordon

Ramsay’s latest book

30 Recipe After decades in the business, Mary

Berry selects some of her favourite dishes

34 Global foodie Aglaia Kremezi on Greece’s

finest food

rEgularS

6 Letters What you’re talking about this issue

8 Foodie bites What’s going on in the world of fine food

10 Shelf life Explore the latest products in store

16 UK fare Fine Foodies takes a closer look at the culinary

landscape of the Isle of Wight

22 In season What’s ideal for eating and cooking

with at this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all

40 Drink up From wines and cocktail ideas to the

newest hot drinks

42 Fine Foodie hero Gabriel David

SPRING 2012


12 26 18

30

34

contents.indd 4 12/3/12 14:08:20

ContentsProduct news


COvEr StOry

12 Michel Roux Jr The celebrated chef on his early

food memories, learning his trade away from the family, and his remaining ambitions

FEaturES

18 Food focus From the deli – Jennifer Britt explores

a sumptuous selection of foods from the deli counter

26 Recipe Indian-inspired recipes from Gordon

Ramsay’s latest book

30 Recipe After decades in the business, Mary

Berry selects some of her favourite dishes

34 Global foodie Aglaia Kremezi on Greece’s

finest food

rEgularS

6 Letters What you’re talking about this issue

8 Foodie bites What’s going on in the world of fine food

10 Shelf life Explore the latest products in store

16 UK fare Fine Foodies takes a closer look at the culinary

landscape of the Isle of Wight

22 In season What’s ideal for eating and cooking

with at this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all

40 Drink up From wines and cocktail ideas to the

newest hot drinks

42 Fine Foodie hero Gabriel David

SPRING 2012


12 26 18

30

34

contents.indd 4 12/3/12 14:08:20 Pg 5 - Teapigs Tipon FPC.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:34

Your foodiesTWEET CORNERWe asked our followers the simple question, what’s for dinner?

“Char su chow mein with shredded leeks and fennel.”JOSH SUTTON @GUYROPEGOURMET

“Pitta bread with hummus with red onion marmalade. Again.”@STOKESSAUCES

“Chicken fajitas, spicy wedges and homemade salsa.”@SAMGURR “Beef wellington and seasonal vegetables.”@FOODZBELIEV

Please circle

Mr / Mrs / Ms Full name:

Address:

Postcode: Contact tel:

Email:

Signature: Date:

FF SPRING12

READER OFFERS✁

From time to time we may wish to make you aware of special offers from carefully selected companies. If you do not wish to receive such offers, please tick this box ■

■ The Garlic Farm ■ Olives Et Al

Star letter – could it be you?Do you have something that you’d like to share with other readers, something that will inspire them, encourage them to visit their local store or is just good news? We’d love to hear from you. And, of course, we’d also like your comments about the magazine.

The winner of this month’s star letter will receive a selection from family owned producers, Cottage Delight, offering the perfect opportunity to sample their handmade fine foods. All of the products are Gold Great Taste Award Winners from 2011, including favourites such as Lemon Curd, as well as the authentic flavours of Thai Mussamum Curry Paste.

Write to: Rachel Symonds, Editor, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ or email [email protected]

SLOW THANKSI just wanted to thank you for theJan/Feb edition of Fine Foodies. Who thought to put the slow cooker recipes in, because whoever did thank you, what a great idea. I have a slow cooker and use it all the time ‒ I wouldn’t be without it but have never seen any slow cooker recipes in any magazines. It was wonderful to find not one but three delicious recipes. I can’t wait to cook them for my family, and they can’t wait for me to cook them for them! Thank you. KIRSTEN LYNCH, FLEET, HAMPSHIRE

Letters

6 FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

StarLetter

FINE PRAISEPicked up a copy of Fine Foodies in our local Italian deli, Buongiono Italia ‒ what a great magazine, beautifully printed. I have known Buongiorno Italia, in St Albans, for over 17 years and in that time it has always been (almost) a hidden secret. Now that it has expanded to a deli and cafe it still makes a visit a real Italian experience.BRIAN DAVIES, REDBOURN, HERTFORDSHIRE

WinterWinterwarmersThe cold weather is upon us, so dust off the slow cooker and get creative with some sumptuous recipe ideas from The Slow Cookbook.

Recipes

28 FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

Pea, ham and potato soup Serves: 4-6A firm favourite with everyone, this soup tastes even better served the next day. Go easy on the salt when adding seasoning as the ham may be salty enough for most people’s taste.

Prep: 15 minutesFreeze up to three months In the slow cooker: Cook auto/low for eight hours or high four hours, then auto/low eight hours or high four hours

Ingredients: • 1.1kg (21⁄2lb) unsmoked ham • 1 bay leaf • 1tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1tbsp Dijon mustard • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 sprigs of rosemary • Handful of thyme, leaves only • 900ml (1½ pints) hot beef stock for the slow cooker (1.2 litres/2 pints for the traditional method)

• 450g (1lb) frozen peas • 3 potatoes, peeled and chopped into bite-sized pieces

Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Sit the ham and bay leaf in the slow cooker and cover with 900ml (1½ pints) of water. Cover and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours, then remove the ham and set aside. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup. • Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over

a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas (if you prefer them puréed, pulse them gently in a liquidiser or use a stick blender).

• Transfer to the slow cooker, add the remaining stock and the potatoes, cover, and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours. Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bite-sized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

• Add the ham and bay leaf to a large pan, cover with 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and bring to the boil. Partially cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about one hour or until the ham is cooked. • Skim away any scum that comes to the surface of the pan as you go. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup. Set the ham aside until cool enough to handle. • Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas and remaining stock. Bring to the boil,

reduce to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes, topping up with hot water as needed. • About 20 minutes before the end of the cooking time, bring a separate pan of water to the boil. Add the potatoes, bring back up to the boil, and then simmer for 12 to 15 minutes until soft. Drain and set aside. Remove the rosemary from the soup, then use a stick blender to gently purée the peas, or ladle them into a liquidizer and pulse a couple of times. Return them to the pan and stir in the potatoes. • Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bite-sized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

Traditional method Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 2 hours

recipes.indd 28 16/12/11 15:27:27

warmers

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES 29

Freeze up to 3 months In the slow cooker: Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 15 minutes precooking; auto/low eight hours

Ingredients: • 2 oxtails, about 1.35kg (3lb) each, cut into bite-sized pieces • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2tbsp olive oil • 2 red onions, sliced • 3 garlic clove, finely chopped • Pinch of dried chilli flakes • 350ml (12fl oz) red wine • 4 star anise • Handful of black peppercorns • 1 bay leaf • 8 soft prunes, stoned and chopped • 600ml (1 pint) hot beef stock for the slow cooker (900ml/1½ pints for the traditional method)

• 4 clementines or 2 oranges, peeled and sliced into rings • Small bunch of curly parsley leaves, finely chopped

Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. Heat half the oil in a large flameproof casserole over a medium heat, then add the meat in batches, and fry for eight to 10 minutes until browned on all sides. Remove from the casserole and set aside. • Heat the remaining oil in the casserole over a medium heat, add the onions, and cook for three to four minutes to soften. Stir through

the garlic and chilli flakes, then pour in the wine and let it simmer before adding it to the slow cooker together with the meat, star anise, peppercorns, bay leaf, prunes, and stock. Cover with the lid and cook on auto/low for eight hours. Add the clementines for the last 30 minutes of cooking. • Shred the meat from the bone into the slow cooker, and discard the bone, bay leaf, and star anise. Serve on a bed of pasta, sprinkled with the parsley.

Braised oxtail with star anise Serves 4-6 Rich and robust, oxtail makes a change from beef and braising it very slowly tenderizes it to the full. Prunes are always a tasty addition to a

stew as their sweetness and texture complement the meat.

• Preheat the oven to 150°c (300°F/gas 2). Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. Heat half the oil in a large flameproof casserole over a medium heat, then add the meat in batches, and fry for eight to 10 minutes until browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. • Heat the remaining oil in the casserole over a medium heat, add the onions, and cook for three to four minutes to soften. Stir through the garlic and chilli flakes, then pour in the wine and let it simmer for about five minutes until slightly reduced. Return the meat to the casserole and add the star anise, peppercorns, bay leaf, and prunes, and pour over just enough stock to cover

the meat. • Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer, add the remaining stock, cover, and put in the oven for about three hours. Check occasionally that it’s not drying out, topping up with a little hot water if needed. Add the clementines or oranges for the last 30 minutes of cooking and leave the casserole uncovered to allow the liquid to thicken slightly. Stir it occasionally to keep the oxtail moist and coated with the gravy. When ready, the meat will fall away from the bone. Remove the bone and discard it together with the bay leaf and star anise. Serve on a bed of pasta, sprinkled with the parsley.

Traditional method Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 3¼ hours

recipes.indd 29

16/12/11 15:28:07

Enter online www.finefoodiesmag.com

Please indicate below which free giveaway you are applying for and then post this form back to us at ‘Reader Offers’, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ.

Please tick:

LETTERS.indd 6 12/3/12 13:37:40

Your foodiesTWEET CORNERWe asked our followers the simple question, what’s for dinner?

“Char su chow mein with shredded leeks and fennel.”JOSH SUTTON @GUYROPEGOURMET

“Pitta bread with hummus with red onion marmalade. Again.”@STOKESSAUCES

“Chicken fajitas, spicy wedges and homemade salsa.”@SAMGURR “Beef wellington and seasonal vegetables.”@FOODZBELIEV

Please circle

Mr / Mrs / Ms Full name:

Address:

Postcode: Contact tel:

Email:

Signature: Date:

FF SPRING12

READER OFFERS✁

From time to time we may wish to make you aware of special offers from carefully selected companies. If you do not wish to receive such offers, please tick this box ■

■ The Garlic Farm ■ Olives Et Al

Star letter – could it be you?Do you have something that you’d like to share with other readers, something that will inspire them, encourage them to visit their local store or is just good news? We’d love to hear from you. And, of course, we’d also like your comments about the magazine.

The winner of this month’s star letter will receive a selection from family owned producers, Cottage Delight, offering the perfect opportunity to sample their handmade fine foods. All of the products are Gold Great Taste Award Winners from 2011, including favourites such as Lemon Curd, as well as the authentic flavours of Thai Mussamum Curry Paste.

Write to: Rachel Symonds, Editor, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ or email [email protected]

SLOW THANKSI just wanted to thank you for theJan/Feb edition of Fine Foodies. Who thought to put the slow cooker recipes in, because whoever did thank you, what a great idea. I have a slow cooker and use it all the time ‒ I wouldn’t be without it but have never seen any slow cooker recipes in any magazines. It was wonderful to find not one but three delicious recipes. I can’t wait to cook them for my family, and they can’t wait for me to cook them for them! Thank you. KIRSTEN LYNCH, FLEET, HAMPSHIRE

Letters


StarLetter

FINE PRAISEPicked up a copy of Fine Foodies in our local Italian deli, Buongiono Italia ‒ what a great magazine, beautifully printed. I have known Buongiorno Italia, in St Albans, for over 17 years and in that time it has always been (almost) a hidden secret. Now that it has expanded to a deli and cafe it still makes a visit a real Italian experience.BRIAN DAVIES, REDBOURN, HERTFORDSHIRE

WinterWinterwarmersThe cold weather is upon us, so dust off the slow cooker and get creative with some sumptuous recipe ideas from The Slow Cookbook.

Recipes

28 FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

Pea, ham and potato soup Serves: 4-6A firm favourite with everyone, this soup tastes even better served the next day. Go easy on the salt when adding seasoning as the ham may be salty enough for most people’s taste.

Prep: 15 minutesFreeze up to three months In the slow cooker: Cook auto/low for eight hours or high four hours, then auto/low eight hours or high four hours

Ingredients: • 1.1kg (21⁄2lb) unsmoked ham • 1 bay leaf • 1tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1tbsp Dijon mustard • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 sprigs of rosemary • Handful of thyme, leaves only • 900ml (1½ pints) hot beef stock for the slow cooker (1.2 litres/2 pints for the traditional method)

• 450g (1lb) frozen peas • 3 potatoes, peeled and chopped into bite-sized pieces

Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Sit the ham and bay leaf in the slow cooker and cover with 900ml (1½ pints) of water. Cover and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours, then remove the ham and set aside. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup. • Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over

a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas (if you prefer them puréed, pulse them gently in a liquidiser or use a stick blender).

• Transfer to the slow cooker, add the remaining stock and the potatoes, cover, and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours. Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bite-sized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

• Add the ham and bay leaf to a large pan, cover with 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and bring to the boil. Partially cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about one hour or until the ham is cooked. • Skim away any scum that comes to the surface of the pan as you go. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup. Set the ham aside until cool enough to handle. • Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas and remaining stock. Bring to the boil,

reduce to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes, topping up with hot water as needed. • About 20 minutes before the end of the cooking time, bring a separate pan of water to the boil. Add the potatoes, bring back up to the boil, and then simmer for 12 to 15 minutes until soft. Drain and set aside. Remove the rosemary from the soup, then use a stick blender to gently purée the peas, or ladle them into a liquidizer and pulse a couple of times. Return them to the pan and stir in the potatoes. • Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bite-sized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

Traditional method Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 2 hours

recipes.indd 28 16/12/11 15:27:27

warmers

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES 29

Freeze up to 3 months In the slow cooker: Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 15 minutes precooking; auto/low eight hours

Ingredients: • 2 oxtails, about 1.35kg (3lb) each, cut into bite-sized pieces • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2tbsp olive oil • 2 red onions, sliced • 3 garlic clove, finely chopped • Pinch of dried chilli flakes • 350ml (12fl oz) red wine • 4 star anise • Handful of black peppercorns • 1 bay leaf • 8 soft prunes, stoned and chopped • 600ml (1 pint) hot beef stock for the slow cooker (900ml/1½ pints for the traditional method)

• 4 clementines or 2 oranges, peeled and sliced into rings • Small bunch of curly parsley leaves, finely chopped

Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. Heat half the oil in a large flameproof casserole over a medium heat, then add the meat in batches, and fry for eight to 10 minutes until browned on all sides. Remove from the casserole and set aside. • Heat the remaining oil in the casserole over a medium heat, add the onions, and cook for three to four minutes to soften. Stir through

the garlic and chilli flakes, then pour in the wine and let it simmer before adding it to the slow cooker together with the meat, star anise, peppercorns, bay leaf, prunes, and stock. Cover with the lid and cook on auto/low for eight hours. Add the clementines for the last 30 minutes of cooking. • Shred the meat from the bone into the slow cooker, and discard the bone, bay leaf, and star anise. Serve on a bed of pasta, sprinkled with the parsley.

Braised oxtail with star anise Serves 4-6 Rich and robust, oxtail makes a change from beef and braising it very slowly tenderizes it to the full. Prunes are always a tasty addition to a

stew as their sweetness and texture complement the meat.

• Preheat the oven to 150°c (300°F/gas 2). Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. Heat half the oil in a large flameproof casserole over a medium heat, then add the meat in batches, and fry for eight to 10 minutes until browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. • Heat the remaining oil in the casserole over a medium heat, add the onions, and cook for three to four minutes to soften. Stir through the garlic and chilli flakes, then pour in the wine and let it simmer for about five minutes until slightly reduced. Return the meat to the casserole and add the star anise, peppercorns, bay leaf, and prunes, and pour over just enough stock to cover

the meat. • Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer, add the remaining stock, cover, and put in the oven for about three hours. Check occasionally that it’s not drying out, topping up with a little hot water if needed. Add the clementines or oranges for the last 30 minutes of cooking and leave the casserole uncovered to allow the liquid to thicken slightly. Stir it occasionally to keep the oxtail moist and coated with the gravy. When ready, the meat will fall away from the bone. Remove the bone and discard it together with the bay leaf and star anise. Serve on a bed of pasta, sprinkled with the parsley.

Traditional method Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 3¼ hours

recipes.indd 29

16/12/11 15:28:07

Enter online www.finefoodiesmag.com

Please indicate below which free giveaway you are applying for and then post this form back to us at ‘Reader Offers’, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ.

Please tick:

LETTERS.indd 6 12/3/12 13:37:40 Pg 7 - ADS.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:35

News update


Foodiebites

JeRSey RoyalS SPRINGSaid to symbolise the end of the dark winter days, the Jersey Royal new potatoes are springing to life.

Jersey Royal new potatoes are one of the few truly British seasonal products still available – springtime is Jersey Royals time as the season runs from the beginning of April to the end of June. When you taste Jersey Royals, you taste the result of 125 years of hand planting and age-old techniques in each bite.

Added to that, Jersey Royals are the only vegetable to have Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, meaning they can only be grown on Jersey. This means each bag sold can be traced back to the farm on which the potatoes were grown.

SOup mEEtS SaIlOr A Devon farmer has teamed up with a top chef for a new ITV series.

Rod Hall (pictured right), who runs the organic soup company Rod and Ben’s, has teamed up with Celebrity MasterChef finalist Dick Strawbridge and his son James for the ITV show Hungry Sailors.

Rod can be seen digging up potatoes and picking herbs for a summer soup with Dick, who is filmed starting his journey in Cornwall before sailing along the south coast to London. Mooring in tiny harbours and busy ports, the father and son duo drop in on local farmers, fishermen, foragers and food producers along the way.

“It was great filming with Dick as he’s full of fun,” Rod said. “He is passionate about local producers, so he was genuinely keen to find out what goes on down here at the farm.”

Deli gives backFine food store Lewis & Cooper is giving back to the local community with a new charitable partnership.

The business, which has stores in Yorkshire, has chosen Herriot Hospice Homecare as its nominated charity. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, the

charity needs to raise at least £200,000 to cover running costs each year. The first fundraiser for 2012 will be its annual Shrove Tuesday pancake race

between Northallerton’s businesses.It’s not the first time Lewis & Cooper has given something back – for more

than 20 years, staff have raised funds for good causes, primarily with its annual pre-Christmas shopping event. In the last two years, customers and staff have helped raise more than £5,500 for Help for Heroes.

FOODIE NEWS.indd 8 7/3/12 10:38:54

News update


Foodiebites

JeRSey RoyalS SPRINGSaid to symbolise the end of the dark winter days, the Jersey Royal new potatoes are springing to life.

Jersey Royal new potatoes are one of the few truly British seasonal products still available – springtime is Jersey Royals time as the season runs from the beginning of April to the end of June. When you taste Jersey Royals, you taste the result of 125 years of hand planting and age-old techniques in each bite.

Added to that, Jersey Royals are the only vegetable to have Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, meaning they can only be grown on Jersey. This means each bag sold can be traced back to the farm on which the potatoes were grown.

SOup mEEtS SaIlOr A Devon farmer has teamed up with a top chef for a new ITV series.

Rod Hall (pictured right), who runs the organic soup company Rod and Ben’s, has teamed up with Celebrity MasterChef finalist Dick Strawbridge and his son James for the ITV show Hungry Sailors.

Rod can be seen digging up potatoes and picking herbs for a summer soup with Dick, who is filmed starting his journey in Cornwall before sailing along the south coast to London. Mooring in tiny harbours and busy ports, the father and son duo drop in on local farmers, fishermen, foragers and food producers along the way.

“It was great filming with Dick as he’s full of fun,” Rod said. “He is passionate about local producers, so he was genuinely keen to find out what goes on down here at the farm.”

Deli gives backFine food store Lewis & Cooper is giving back to the local community with a new charitable partnership.

The business, which has stores in Yorkshire, has chosen Herriot Hospice Homecare as its nominated charity. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, the

charity needs to raise at least £200,000 to cover running costs each year. The first fundraiser for 2012 will be its annual Shrove Tuesday pancake race

between Northallerton’s businesses.It’s not the first time Lewis & Cooper has given something back – for more

than 20 years, staff have raised funds for good causes, primarily with its annual pre-Christmas shopping event. In the last two years, customers and staff have helped raise more than £5,500 for Help for Heroes.


As a nation, we’re growing increasingly concerned with avoiding additives in our food, yet it remains difficult to understand ingredient labels in many everyday items.

Which is where the Real Bread Loaf Mark could come in useful, as for bread to bear this stamp of approval, it must be additive free. Any baker wanting to use the

Real Bread Loaf Mark must first sign an annual agreement that they will only use it to promote loaves made without the use of any processing aids or other artificial additives.

This follows research by Toluna on behalf of the campaign, which found that more than 70 per

cent of Britons believe it’s unacceptable that an ingredient and additives list doesn’t have to be displayed for unwrapped loaves, and that processing aids don’t have to appear on any ingredients list. It also found that 85 per cent of people said they thought a mark to show a loaf was additive-free would be useful.

The number of bakeries around Britain now using The Real Bread Loaf Mark has just passed 50.

Real Bread Campaign co-ordinator, Chris Young, said: “We still call for an Honest Crust Act that requires all bakers to declare everything that goes into a loaf, and for bakers to come clean voluntarily in the meantime, but for now the Loaf Mark is a quick way for shoppers to see a loaf’s additive-free.”

Pasty PraiseIt’s one of Britain’s best-loved exports, and now the search is on to find the best pasty.

The World Pasty Championships are due to take place at the Eden Project in Cornwall to celebrate the region’s most famous dish.

The contest is a chance for professional and amateur pasty makers in Cornwall, the rest of the UK and across the world to parade their wares. Competitors can enter categories for the traditional Cornish pasty or open sections for other varieties.

The championships are backed by the Cornish Pasty Association, after it won European Union Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for the Cornish pasty last year. This means only pasty makers based in Cornwall, who make pasties in a traditional manner and follow a traditional recipe are able to label their products as Cornish pasties.

Tony Trenerry, Senior Sous Chef at the Eden Project, said: “Since we announced the World Pasty Championships we’ve been getting some really exciting interest, not only from pasty makers in this country but from as far afield as America and Australia. It just shows how the pasty has gone from this little corner of Great Britain to many far distant places across the globe.”

Recognition of real bread rises

SauSage delightThe best sausages in the West Midlands have been revealed.

The 11th West Midlands Tastiest Sausage Competition has crowned butchers from Staffordshire and Wolverhampton the region’s best.

The event was organised by Heart of England fine foods and held at the AGA shop in Birmingham. A panel of 14 judges taste tested more than 80 sausages from butchers across Staffordshire, Shropshire, Herefordshire, Worcestershire, Warwickshire and Birmingham and Black Country.

Packington Moor Farm Shop, in Lichfield, won the Tastiest Breakfast Sausage category with its Packington Moor Porker, while Robinsons Butchers, Tettenhall, won the Tastiest Speciality Sausage category with its Pork and Caramelised Onion Sausage.

Cheese choiceIf cheese is your thing, two forthcoming events could be right up your street.

The Cheese & Wine Festival takes place at London’s Southbank Centre from April 27, giving visitors the chance to explore more than 35 stalls showing artisan cheese and dairy, foodie gifts, and wines, from as far afield as Italy, Australia and South America.

In the Cheese & Wine Cookery Theatre, Chef Valentina Harris will be co-ordinating a series of talks and cheese recipe demonstrations, while Master of Wine, Tim Atkin, will be in charge of the tutored cheese and wine tastings.

Or you could head to the Cheese Makers Market on April 14 in Old Beaconsfield. Designed for cheese lovers, the event gives the opportunity to taste, learn about, and buy cheese, featuring products from over 70 different producers.

SPRiNg 2012 FINE FOODIES �

diviNe getS aPPyDivine Chocolate is making it even easier to indulge with the creation of a new app.

Packed full of delicious chocolate recipes and much more, the Fairtrade, farmer-owned chocolate company has launched the free app for the iPhone and iPad. Featuring exclusive video content, irresistible recipes created by chocolate experts and celebrity chefs, the app also includes a Google Map guide to your nearest Divine stockist for when you’re out and about. The app also features a quick tips section of short and informative videos demonstrating some chocolate baking basics. These include essential kit, melting chocolate, ingredients, and greaseproofing.• Search for ‘Divine App’ on the App Store (in the Lifestyle category).


Shelf LifeWhat’s neW in the World of great-tasting food

Product news

10 FINE FOODIES sPring 2012

neW year, neW lookAs awareness grows around the benefits of rapeseed oil, Hillfarm has given its product a makeover.

A bottle of premium Hillfarm Extra Virgin Rapeseed Oil still contains the same golden, great-tasting and 100 per cent natural, British cold-pressed oil used by chefs including James Martin, Galton Blackiston, and Raymond Blanc, but it has now been given a contemporary makeover.

The idea is to demonstrate the benefits of rapeseed oil on the label. Shoppers will also see the Red Tractor logo and Kosher certification. The addition of a ‘spotlight on saturated fat’ on the back of the bottle helps those new to rapeseed oil to learn about the saturated fat content at just six per cent. The new label also makes it clear that this award-winning, versatile cooking oil is suitable for roasting, baking, dressing and frying.

Dorset Cereals offers osCar glamourForget the jewels, the clothes and the latest technological accessory, the goody bags at this year’s Oscars also featured the UK’s very own Dorset Cereals.

Oscar nominees from George Clooney to Meryl Streep found the company’s award-winning mueslis, complete with bowl and spoon, in the gifting suites open to the stars after the company was selected to be part of the Official 2012 GBK’s Gift Lounge.

Mandy Cooper, Head of Communications at Dorset Cereals, comments: “When GBK contacted us about being part of the Gift Lounge at the Oscars we were tickled pink. As a little company from Dorset, it is a huge privilege to be selected to be in front of so many A-list celebrities, not to mention a wealth of other well-established brands.”

HaNDmaDE HEavENThese days, we all need to eat on the go sometimes, but that doesn’t mean we want to compromise on quality.

That’s the ethos at The Handmake Cake Company, which has launched its Cakes-to-Go range of rather tasty snacks.

The new eight-strong family includes Granola Slice made to exactly the same recipe as the company’s award-winning traybake, the aptly-named Caramel Heaven Slice, a mix of oaty flapjack, caramel, cranberries, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds and plain chocolate chunks. Other vareties include Chocolate Fruit & Nut Tiffin, Cranberry & Sultana Flapjack, and the very lovely Raspberry & Coconut Slice.

Free from additions for Nature’s PathCereal experts Nature’s Path are focusing their new products on special diets this year.

Following the success of the free-from range for younger coeliacs in 2011, Nature’s Path will be doing plenty of work on its free from range, introducing a larger pack of its award-winning flagship brand, Mesa Sunrise.

CraCking CorkersBritish made, great tasting and no artificial flavours, Corkers Crisps tick all the right boxes.

This range of crisps is made from potatoes grown in the rich Fenland soil of Cambridgeshire, and contain no artificial or MSG products. As an added benefit, Corkers Crisps proudly carry the reassuring Red Tractor mark.

The range includes the new Sea Salt and Cider Vinegar variety, or you could try Pork Sausage and English Mustard, or Red Leicester and Caramelised Onion.

macarOON magIcThe people over at James Chocolates have unveiled their latest addition in the shape of Macaroon Discs.

The innovative chocolate range come in flavours inspired by the Parisien macaroon craze – fresh raspberry, pistachio, vanilla praline and coffee and caramel. Each chocolate resembles a macaroon with two chocolate layers sandwiched with a yielding filling.

And they must be good as they have already won two Great Taste awards. And for Easter, James and his team of chocolate makers have created half an egg filled with five assorted macaroon discs.

product news.indd 10 7/3/12 10:42:38

Shelf LifeWhat’s neW in the World of great-tasting food

Product news

10 FINE FOODIES sPring 2012

neW year, neW lookAs awareness grows around the benefits of rapeseed oil, Hillfarm has given its product a makeover.

A bottle of premium Hillfarm Extra Virgin Rapeseed Oil still contains the same golden, great-tasting and 100 per cent natural, British cold-pressed oil used by chefs including James Martin, Galton Blackiston, and Raymond Blanc, but it has now been given a contemporary makeover.

The idea is to demonstrate the benefits of rapeseed oil on the label. Shoppers will also see the Red Tractor logo and Kosher certification. The addition of a ‘spotlight on saturated fat’ on the back of the bottle helps those new to rapeseed oil to learn about the saturated fat content at just six per cent. The new label also makes it clear that this award-winning, versatile cooking oil is suitable for roasting, baking, dressing and frying.

Dorset Cereals offers osCar glamourForget the jewels, the clothes and the latest technological accessory, the goody bags at this year’s Oscars also featured the UK’s very own Dorset Cereals.

Oscar nominees from George Clooney to Meryl Streep found the company’s award-winning mueslis, complete with bowl and spoon, in the gifting suites open to the stars after the company was selected to be part of the Official 2012 GBK’s Gift Lounge.

Mandy Cooper, Head of Communications at Dorset Cereals, comments: “When GBK contacted us about being part of the Gift Lounge at the Oscars we were tickled pink. As a little company from Dorset, it is a huge privilege to be selected to be in front of so many A-list celebrities, not to mention a wealth of other well-established brands.”

HaNDmaDE HEavENThese days, we all need to eat on the go sometimes, but that doesn’t mean we want to compromise on quality.

That’s the ethos at The Handmake Cake Company, which has launched its Cakes-to-Go range of rather tasty snacks.

The new eight-strong family includes Granola Slice made to exactly the same recipe as the company’s award-winning traybake, the aptly-named Caramel Heaven Slice, a mix of oaty flapjack, caramel, cranberries, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds and plain chocolate chunks. Other vareties include Chocolate Fruit & Nut Tiffin, Cranberry & Sultana Flapjack, and the very lovely Raspberry & Coconut Slice.

Free from additions for Nature’s PathCereal experts Nature’s Path are focusing their new products on special diets this year.

Following the success of the free-from range for younger coeliacs in 2011, Nature’s Path will be doing plenty of work on its free from range, introducing a larger pack of its award-winning flagship brand, Mesa Sunrise.

CraCking CorkersBritish made, great tasting and no artificial flavours, Corkers Crisps tick all the right boxes.

This range of crisps is made from potatoes grown in the rich Fenland soil of Cambridgeshire, and contain no artificial or MSG products. As an added benefit, Corkers Crisps proudly carry the reassuring Red Tractor mark.

The range includes the new Sea Salt and Cider Vinegar variety, or you could try Pork Sausage and English Mustard, or Red Leicester and Caramelised Onion.

macarOON magIcThe people over at James Chocolates have unveiled their latest addition in the shape of Macaroon Discs.

The innovative chocolate range come in flavours inspired by the Parisien macaroon craze – fresh raspberry, pistachio, vanilla praline and coffee and caramel. Each chocolate resembles a macaroon with two chocolate layers sandwiched with a yielding filling.

And they must be good as they have already won two Great Taste awards. And for Easter, James and his team of chocolate makers have created half an egg filled with five assorted macaroon discs.

product news.indd 10 7/3/12 10:42:38 Pg11 - ADS.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:36

Interview


Say the name ‘Roux’ and you could be talking about one of a number of celebrated and pioneering chefs.

It could be Albert Roux, the man who co-founded the famous Le Gavroche restaurant, bringing a slice of classic French cuisine to London. Or it may be his co-founder, brother Michel Roux Snr. Or, of course, it could also be Albert’s son, Michel Roux Jr, the man who now heads up Le Gavroche, as well as fronting TV series’ including MasterChef The Professionals and The Service. Or it could be his cousin, Alain, also in the family trade.

In short, cooking is in the DNA of the Roux family.

And now, this culinary dynasty has come together for a brand new TV series. The Roux Legacy, airing on The Good Food channel, is a 10-part series providing extraordinary behind-the-scenes footage of the family members in the kitchens of The Waterside Inn in Berkshire, which remains the only UK restaurant to retain three Michelin stars for more than 25 years, and Le Gavroche. Viewers will also learn about the Roux Scholarship, run by the family as part of their annual search for the best new culinary talent. The best young chefs compete against each other for the prize of a lifetime; three months experience in a three Michelin starred restaurant of their choice.

“The Roux Legacy was more of a documentary about the family, going back to day one when the two brothers arrived and started the business,” Michel Jr tells me. “It originally started as an idea

about the Roux Scholarship – that is now 28 years old and it is the toughest and most prestigious competition in Britain. But then the production company felt we could do more so we made it into a six-hour series. There is the Roux Scholarship aspect, we look historically at the two brothers cooking together, me cooking, my cousin cooking and then all of us together. It was the first time we had all come together for a series and it is always nice when we get to work together.”

Early memoriesFood and cooking has always been a big part of life in the Roux family, so it’s perhaps no surprise that Michel Jr made it his life’s career, nor should it be such a surprise that his own daughter, Emily, is also starting on the same path, and has been studying in France.

He recalls: “My very first memories of food are of smell rather than taste – I was almost born in the kitchen and from day

Celebrating the Roux legacyMichel Roux Jr talks to Fine Foodies Editor, Rachel Symonds, about celebrating his family’s culinary talents.

one I was in the kitchen while my father was cooking. From day one I was exposed to the sounds and smells of a kitchen, and then, of course, later taste.”

It was really without knowing it that Michel Jr became increasingly familiar with different foods, and how to cook them.

“Our food culture was of having real food, fresh vegetables, fresh fruit. As a very young child, I would go fishing with my father, and we would catch a fish and eat it. When it rained, we would go out looking for snails, not for fun but to eat and I couldn’t have been more than seven, and we would go foraging for wild rabbits. I remember it was seen as very strange by people where we lived in Kent!” he recalled.

“We saw the food chain as it was, the reality of how we get our food.”

But that’s not to say it was just his famous father who influenced him.

“My mother is French and herself is a very good cook. She was brought up with the French love of food and has that heritage as much as my father does. My love of cooking is down to my mother as much as my father – it was her who fed me while my father was working and she would never open a tin or cook convenience food, even though she was bringing up two children and working. It was always fresh, always cooked to order and it was good produce.”

But he points out that cooking good quality, home-cooked fare does not have to cost the earth.

“Our meals were not expensive by any means, because we didn’t come from a

interview 2.indd 12 7/3/12 10:44:28

Interview


Say the name ‘Roux’ and you could be talking about one of a number of celebrated and pioneering chefs.

It could be Albert Roux, the man who co-founded the famous Le Gavroche restaurant, bringing a slice of classic French cuisine to London. Or it may be his co-founder, brother Michel Roux Snr. Or, of course, it could also be Albert’s son, Michel Roux Jr, the man who now heads up Le Gavroche, as well as fronting TV series’ including MasterChef The Professionals and The Service. Or it could be his cousin, Alain, also in the family trade.

In short, cooking is in the DNA of the Roux family.

And now, this culinary dynasty has come together for a brand new TV series. The Roux Legacy, airing on The Good Food channel, is a 10-part series providing extraordinary behind-the-scenes footage of the family members in the kitchens of The Waterside Inn in Berkshire, which remains the only UK restaurant to retain three Michelin stars for more than 25 years, and Le Gavroche. Viewers will also learn about the Roux Scholarship, run by the family as part of their annual search for the best new culinary talent. The best young chefs compete against each other for the prize of a lifetime; three months experience in a three Michelin starred restaurant of their choice.

“The Roux Legacy was more of a documentary about the family, going back to day one when the two brothers arrived and started the business,” Michel Jr tells me. “It originally started as an idea

about the Roux Scholarship – that is now 28 years old and it is the toughest and most prestigious competition in Britain. But then the production company felt we could do more so we made it into a six-hour series. There is the Roux Scholarship aspect, we look historically at the two brothers cooking together, me cooking, my cousin cooking and then all of us together. It was the first time we had all come together for a series and it is always nice when we get to work together.”

Early memoriesFood and cooking has always been a big part of life in the Roux family, so it’s perhaps no surprise that Michel Jr made it his life’s career, nor should it be such a surprise that his own daughter, Emily, is also starting on the same path, and has been studying in France.

He recalls: “My very first memories of food are of smell rather than taste – I was almost born in the kitchen and from day

Celebrating the Roux legacyMichel Roux Jr talks to Fine Foodies Editor, Rachel Symonds, about celebrating his family’s culinary talents.

one I was in the kitchen while my father was cooking. From day one I was exposed to the sounds and smells of a kitchen, and then, of course, later taste.”

It was really without knowing it that Michel Jr became increasingly familiar with different foods, and how to cook them.

“Our food culture was of having real food, fresh vegetables, fresh fruit. As a very young child, I would go fishing with my father, and we would catch a fish and eat it. When it rained, we would go out looking for snails, not for fun but to eat and I couldn’t have been more than seven, and we would go foraging for wild rabbits. I remember it was seen as very strange by people where we lived in Kent!” he recalled.

“We saw the food chain as it was, the reality of how we get our food.”

But that’s not to say it was just his famous father who influenced him.

“My mother is French and herself is a very good cook. She was brought up with the French love of food and has that heritage as much as my father does. My love of cooking is down to my mother as much as my father – it was her who fed me while my father was working and she would never open a tin or cook convenience food, even though she was bringing up two children and working. It was always fresh, always cooked to order and it was good produce.”

But he points out that cooking good quality, home-cooked fare does not have to cost the earth.

“Our meals were not expensive by any means, because we didn’t come from a

interview 2.indd 12 7/3/12 10:44:28

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES 13

“It was always what I wanted to do, there was never anything else, and my parents were very happy that I did carry on the tradition.”

interview 2.indd 13 12/3/12 13:42:09

rich family, quite the contrary – my father came to England in 1960 with less than five pounds in his pocket. Times were very tough.”

Following his fatherAlthough Michel Jr eventually went into the family trade, he feels it was really important to his career not to simply train with his father and uncle. Instead, he wanted to bring outside influences into the business and went and trained in Paris.

“It was always what I wanted to do, there was never anything else, and my parents were very happy that I did carry on the tradition,” he said, although added: “But I think it was important to do my training away from the family – working with your family is tough, and there is the added pressure as you are trying to do the same thing as your parents. Training outside the family circle meant that I came back with fresh ideas and my own take.”

What he felt he brought back to the family table was a modern approach on what they were doing.

“I was steeped in the classics because that’s what I had grown up with but there was definitely a new approach I took. My daughter, if she wants to work in the family business, will, I’m sure, have a new and more modern take too. Cooking has moved on a generation, it is always moving on and that’s what is so wonderful about this industry. We are different generations, so we are different – my father cooked with stones, and I cook with induction, so there are mechanical differences but we both love French food

and the classics, so we are very similar in that way.”

It is those French dishes that remain on his list of favourite foods to eat as well as cook.

“Favourite food would be the French classics, something that is heart warming that makes you feel good. I love any food as long as it is well prepared,” he said.

After such success, it would be natural to want to pass it down to the next generation and relax a little, but Michel Jr says there’s plenty more ambition in him.

“I still spend 90 per cent of my time in the kitchen [our interview was conducted during service] – it is very important that I spend time in the kitchen, it is still my core focus,” he said. “But I would like to work on another book, and there are also a couple of offers for TV programmes. But it has to be something that I’m happy with, it has to fit me, and be something that can fit around me being in the kitchen.”

He is clearly passionate about what he does, but what really drives him each day back into the kitchen?

“It’s to see customers with a big smile on their faces; the Michelin stars, the good press reviews, they are great but to see happy faces in your restaurant, there is nothing better.”

British food heritageIn comparison to France, Britain has less of a food heritage, but Michel Jr believes it is developing.

“British food culture has certainly changed over the last 20, 30 and 40 years, for sure,” he said. “There are some great

British chefs and we are starting to find a British style. That’s evolving and will continue to evolve – we are now seeing people come to London not just for the shows or the shopping but for the food, because this is where some of the fantastic restaurants are. You couldn’t have said that 20 years ago. Brits are more curious about food too. They are willing to try something new.”

So, who does he admire in the culinary world?

“If you take Gary Rhodes, for example, 15 to 20 years ago he came on to TV and he made cooking fun, yet his food was still serious, great food,” Michel Jr says by way of an answer. “And Rick Stein, what he has done for British ingredients is fantastic, he showed how you can use the best ingredients from Britain and that was wonderful.”

It is on British TV screens that Michel Jr is perhaps best known, having appeared on various programmes over the years. His first book, The Gavroche Recipe Cookbook, was around 15 years ago, and he first appeared on MasterChef in the days when Lloyd Grossman was the presenter. Today, he appears on MasterChef the Professionals with Gregg Wallace.

“I have always liked MasterChef, it is a great concept and a great programme. In the new series, I did quite a few appearances and the production company talked to me about a series for professionals. It is a Roux philosophy to always help working chefs or youngsters in our industry, and we encourage the passing on of knowledge.” FF

Interview


Michel Jr with daughter, Emily

interview 2.indd 14 7/3/12 10:45:09

rich family, quite the contrary – my father came to England in 1960 with less than five pounds in his pocket. Times were very tough.”

Following his fatherAlthough Michel Jr eventually went into the family trade, he feels it was really important to his career not to simply train with his father and uncle. Instead, he wanted to bring outside influences into the business and went and trained in Paris.

“It was always what I wanted to do, there was never anything else, and my parents were very happy that I did carry on the tradition,” he said, although added: “But I think it was important to do my training away from the family – working with your family is tough, and there is the added pressure as you are trying to do the same thing as your parents. Training outside the family circle meant that I came back with fresh ideas and my own take.”

What he felt he brought back to the family table was a modern approach on what they were doing.

“I was steeped in the classics because that’s what I had grown up with but there was definitely a new approach I took. My daughter, if she wants to work in the family business, will, I’m sure, have a new and more modern take too. Cooking has moved on a generation, it is always moving on and that’s what is so wonderful about this industry. We are different generations, so we are different – my father cooked with stones, and I cook with induction, so there are mechanical differences but we both love French food

and the classics, so we are very similar in that way.”

It is those French dishes that remain on his list of favourite foods to eat as well as cook.

“Favourite food would be the French classics, something that is heart warming that makes you feel good. I love any food as long as it is well prepared,” he said.

After such success, it would be natural to want to pass it down to the next generation and relax a little, but Michel Jr says there’s plenty more ambition in him.

“I still spend 90 per cent of my time in the kitchen [our interview was conducted during service] – it is very important that I spend time in the kitchen, it is still my core focus,” he said. “But I would like to work on another book, and there are also a couple of offers for TV programmes. But it has to be something that I’m happy with, it has to fit me, and be something that can fit around me being in the kitchen.”

He is clearly passionate about what he does, but what really drives him each day back into the kitchen?

“It’s to see customers with a big smile on their faces; the Michelin stars, the good press reviews, they are great but to see happy faces in your restaurant, there is nothing better.”

British food heritageIn comparison to France, Britain has less of a food heritage, but Michel Jr believes it is developing.

“British food culture has certainly changed over the last 20, 30 and 40 years, for sure,” he said. “There are some great

British chefs and we are starting to find a British style. That’s evolving and will continue to evolve – we are now seeing people come to London not just for the shows or the shopping but for the food, because this is where some of the fantastic restaurants are. You couldn’t have said that 20 years ago. Brits are more curious about food too. They are willing to try something new.”

So, who does he admire in the culinary world?

“If you take Gary Rhodes, for example, 15 to 20 years ago he came on to TV and he made cooking fun, yet his food was still serious, great food,” Michel Jr says by way of an answer. “And Rick Stein, what he has done for British ingredients is fantastic, he showed how you can use the best ingredients from Britain and that was wonderful.”

It is on British TV screens that Michel Jr is perhaps best known, having appeared on various programmes over the years. His first book, The Gavroche Recipe Cookbook, was around 15 years ago, and he first appeared on MasterChef in the days when Lloyd Grossman was the presenter. Today, he appears on MasterChef the Professionals with Gregg Wallace.

“I have always liked MasterChef, it is a great concept and a great programme. In the new series, I did quite a few appearances and the production company talked to me about a series for professionals. It is a Roux philosophy to always help working chefs or youngsters in our industry, and we encourage the passing on of knowledge.” FF

Interview


Michel Jr with daughter, Emily

interview 2.indd 14 7/3/12 10:45:09 Pg15 - Olives Et al FPC.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:37

Island lifeUK fare


It may have become famous for its annual music festival in recent years, but there’s a huge amount of appeal to the Isle of Wight all year round.

The largest island in England, the almost diamond-shaped Isle of Wight has a rich history to be proud of, coupled with a thriving tourist trade.

Queen Victoria had her summer residence at Osborne House, in Cowes. It went on to become a fashionable holiday home for Victorians, and in fact is where Charles Dickens is believed to have written much of David Copperfield. Dickens himself is known to have lived near the town of Ventnor, while Winston Churchill spent extended periods here. The Isle of Wight also boasts actor Jeremy Irons as a native, as well as film director Anthony Minghella and explorer and TV personality Bear Grylls.

As well as the top names attracted to play each year at the Isle of Wight Festival in June, this summer will also see a Royal visit. In July, The Queen, accompanied by the Duke of Edinburgh, is scheduled to visit Cowes as part of her Diamond Jubilee tour.

The island exploredSituated just off the south coast, the Isle of Wight is considered a great holiday destination for both Brits and tourists from further afield.

Spanning a diamond-shaped area of around 380 sq km, the Isle of Wight boasts award-winning beaches and spectacular scenery, including two stretches of Heritage Coast covering nearly half of the island’s 60-mile coastline. Heritage Coast status is only applied to coastlines of the highest quality in England and Wales. In addition, more than half the island is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, making it a popular holiday destination for tourists.

The perhaps most photographed sight is the Needles, a row of three distinctive stacks of chalk that rise out of the sea at the western end of the island and are flanked by a lighthouse.

Food heritageThanks to its green fields and often warm, sunny climate, in addition to being surrounded by water, the Isle of Wight is hugely versatile in terms of the food

Fine Foodies goes on a journey to discover all the Isle of Wight has to offer.

and drink it produces. And it is thanks to its milder climate that the Isle of Wight actually enjoys a longer growing season than much of the UK.

The area boasts plenty of local produce, especially when it comes to seafood, locally-brewed beer, not to mention wine, cider and ice creams.

The Isle of Wight is also home to the largest garlic grower in the UK. The Garlic Farm provides more than 20 types of garlic as well as producing many chutneys and

Foodiefact:The Isle of Wight is one of the richest locations for dinosaur fossils while to this day, many rare bats can be found.

UK FAYRE.indd 16 7/3/12 10:47:02

Island lifeUK fare


It may have become famous for its annual music festival in recent years, but there’s a huge amount of appeal to the Isle of Wight all year round.

The largest island in England, the almost diamond-shaped Isle of Wight has a rich history to be proud of, coupled with a thriving tourist trade.

Queen Victoria had her summer residence at Osborne House, in Cowes. It went on to become a fashionable holiday home for Victorians, and in fact is where Charles Dickens is believed to have written much of David Copperfield. Dickens himself is known to have lived near the town of Ventnor, while Winston Churchill spent extended periods here. The Isle of Wight also boasts actor Jeremy Irons as a native, as well as film director Anthony Minghella and explorer and TV personality Bear Grylls.

As well as the top names attracted to play each year at the Isle of Wight Festival in June, this summer will also see a Royal visit. In July, The Queen, accompanied by the Duke of Edinburgh, is scheduled to visit Cowes as part of her Diamond Jubilee tour.

The island exploredSituated just off the south coast, the Isle of Wight is considered a great holiday destination for both Brits and tourists from further afield.

Spanning a diamond-shaped area of around 380 sq km, the Isle of Wight boasts award-winning beaches and spectacular scenery, including two stretches of Heritage Coast covering nearly half of the island’s 60-mile coastline. Heritage Coast status is only applied to coastlines of the highest quality in England and Wales. In addition, more than half the island is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, making it a popular holiday destination for tourists.

The perhaps most photographed sight is the Needles, a row of three distinctive stacks of chalk that rise out of the sea at the western end of the island and are flanked by a lighthouse.

Food heritageThanks to its green fields and often warm, sunny climate, in addition to being surrounded by water, the Isle of Wight is hugely versatile in terms of the food

Fine Foodies goes on a journey to discover all the Isle of Wight has to offer.

and drink it produces. And it is thanks to its milder climate that the Isle of Wight actually enjoys a longer growing season than much of the UK.

The area boasts plenty of local produce, especially when it comes to seafood, locally-brewed beer, not to mention wine, cider and ice creams.

The Isle of Wight is also home to the largest garlic grower in the UK. The Garlic Farm provides more than 20 types of garlic as well as producing many chutneys and

Foodiefact:The Isle of Wight is one of the richest locations for dinosaur fossils while to this day, many rare bats can be found.

UK FAYRE.indd 16 7/3/12 10:47:02

relishes to complement any dish. But it doesn’t end there. Due to its garlic history, in 1983 the Isle of Wight Garlic Festival was started. Since then it has grown to become one of the largest events on the island each year, second only to Cowes Week. Attended by 25,000 people each year, it is a mixture of a country fair and garlic cuisine coupled with plenty of entertainment for children and adults.

In addition to garlic, the area also boasts three vineyards producing apple

juice, cider, fruit wines, liqueurs and cordials. Added to that, there are also a number of island breweries. And lavender is also grown for its oil.

If visiting the area, you can be sure of quality in the venues you eat at thanks to the Isle of Wight Hospitality Award, which helps locals and tourists alike identify top quality. The marque is for everything from restaurants and pubs, to tearooms and cafes, and aims to celebrate the best in the Isle of Wight’s eating experiences. FF


Reader offerFine Foodies has four classic garlic hampers to give away courtesy of the people at The Garlic Farm. A collection of The Garlic Farm favourites in a lovely wicker hamper, this prize includes The Garlic Farm Cookbook, Hot Garlic Pickle, Tomato Garlic and Ginger Chutney, Horseradish Mustard with Garlic along with three Gourmet Garlic Bulbs and Garlic Fudge. See page 6 for details.

Picture courtesy IW Council, w

ww

.islandbreaks.co.uk

UK FAYRE.indd 17 7/3/12 10:47:26

Food focus


The delight of the deli counter is not only in providing an abundance of fresh, quality, delicious ingredients, but also in

making shopping more adventurous. And so we explore all that’s on offer,

and take you behind the stories of some of the UK’s best producers.

Deli lunchAt The Cornish Deli in the seaside town of St Ives, Mark Ellwood has just taken a roast pork loin with a “cracking crackling” out of the oven. It’s nearly lunchtime and the carving knife is to hand.

“We’ll serve this lovely pork in baguettes or sandwiches with salad and Cornish pickle,” he tempts.

Another time he might have wanted to entice us with any one of a rolling choice of house specials – chilli dog, perhaps, with a filling of sausage topped with chilli and grated cheese or, if we were early birds, a brunch-to-go of bacon with eggs

in a baguette.Or a melt, a slice of quiche, a

mushroom-topped pizza bread or a home-made Chorizo sausage roll? There is always home-made soup on the go – does red lentil and chilli bean soup take your fancy?

Sometimes a plain ham sandwich is perfection. In high season, Mark’s Gone to the Beach ‘meal deals’ of a made-to-order sandwich plus crisps and a juice keep dozens of customers fuelled each day. With the deli counter spread before them, they often add an extra or two... a pot of olives or sun-dried tomatoes.

Other occasions call for a feast. One romantic, who was proposing to his girlfriend over a picnic on the beach (she said yes), pre-ordered a spread of local crab and smoked salmon with salads and antipasto and a miniature cheese board. Even the bubbly, like most of the ingredients, was Cornish, a methode-champenoise Brut from the Camel Valley vineyard.

None of the dishes individually were really fancy food, insists Mark, because a great deli counter lunch is about simple stuff done really, really well.

“We’re not complicated but we’re about quality ingredients like the best beef, prime pork and artisan cheese, and freshness and being local.”

Deli nibblesAt Henshelwoods Delicatessen in bustling York city centre, Ali Vincent inspires us with ideas for tasty morsels to serve with drinks or as a starter.

Ali makes her own patés, Whitby crab, roast salmon, chicken and liver and three different varieties of lentil.

“They all go nicely on blinis or little oatcakes or just served as dips with Italian flatbreads, which are brilliant for dipping because they are very hard and crunchy,” she says.

Another speciality is olive jam, made with olives and honey. “Oh, it’s a fantastic combination. It’s good with cheese or cold meats or just brush some on bruschetta and top with sun-dried tomato,” suggests Ali.

“Olive jam is Spanish in origin and we used to buy it in until our supplier stopped importing it so we started making our own because our customers love it. We sell it by weight and it’s very popular.”

Some favourites at Henshelwoods to include in a fantastic antipasto spread are balsamic beetroot with red onion, courgette salad with pine nuts and a tomato sauce, garlic cloves and caper berries on the stalk.

Generally, though, her customers buy a small selection, often at the weekend, for a “little treat”. Ali emphasises that you don’t

Jennifer Britt explores all the delights of the great British deli counter.

Deli delicious

FOOD FOCUS.indd 18 7/3/12 10:49:42

Food focus


The delight of the deli counter is not only in providing an abundance of fresh, quality, delicious ingredients, but also in

making shopping more adventurous. And so we explore all that’s on offer,

and take you behind the stories of some of the UK’s best producers.

Deli lunchAt The Cornish Deli in the seaside town of St Ives, Mark Ellwood has just taken a roast pork loin with a “cracking crackling” out of the oven. It’s nearly lunchtime and the carving knife is to hand.

“We’ll serve this lovely pork in baguettes or sandwiches with salad and Cornish pickle,” he tempts.

Another time he might have wanted to entice us with any one of a rolling choice of house specials – chilli dog, perhaps, with a filling of sausage topped with chilli and grated cheese or, if we were early birds, a brunch-to-go of bacon with eggs

in a baguette.Or a melt, a slice of quiche, a

mushroom-topped pizza bread or a home-made Chorizo sausage roll? There is always home-made soup on the go – does red lentil and chilli bean soup take your fancy?

Sometimes a plain ham sandwich is perfection. In high season, Mark’s Gone to the Beach ‘meal deals’ of a made-to-order sandwich plus crisps and a juice keep dozens of customers fuelled each day. With the deli counter spread before them, they often add an extra or two... a pot of olives or sun-dried tomatoes.

Other occasions call for a feast. One romantic, who was proposing to his girlfriend over a picnic on the beach (she said yes), pre-ordered a spread of local crab and smoked salmon with salads and antipasto and a miniature cheese board. Even the bubbly, like most of the ingredients, was Cornish, a methode-champenoise Brut from the Camel Valley vineyard.

None of the dishes individually were really fancy food, insists Mark, because a great deli counter lunch is about simple stuff done really, really well.

“We’re not complicated but we’re about quality ingredients like the best beef, prime pork and artisan cheese, and freshness and being local.”

Deli nibblesAt Henshelwoods Delicatessen in bustling York city centre, Ali Vincent inspires us with ideas for tasty morsels to serve with drinks or as a starter.

Ali makes her own patés, Whitby crab, roast salmon, chicken and liver and three different varieties of lentil.

“They all go nicely on blinis or little oatcakes or just served as dips with Italian flatbreads, which are brilliant for dipping because they are very hard and crunchy,” she says.

Another speciality is olive jam, made with olives and honey. “Oh, it’s a fantastic combination. It’s good with cheese or cold meats or just brush some on bruschetta and top with sun-dried tomato,” suggests Ali.

“Olive jam is Spanish in origin and we used to buy it in until our supplier stopped importing it so we started making our own because our customers love it. We sell it by weight and it’s very popular.”

Some favourites at Henshelwoods to include in a fantastic antipasto spread are balsamic beetroot with red onion, courgette salad with pine nuts and a tomato sauce, garlic cloves and caper berries on the stalk.

Generally, though, her customers buy a small selection, often at the weekend, for a “little treat”. Ali emphasises that you don’t

Jennifer Britt explores all the delights of the great British deli counter.

Deli delicious

FOOD FOCUS.indd 18 7/3/12 10:49:42


FF

need to spend a huge amount of money at the deli counter.

“It’s easy to keep to a budget. We’re very happy to do tiny amounts. If you need just three blush tomatoes to decorate canapés, that’s fine. People love the variety. They can have lots of small pots of lots of different things they like... and they can taste before they buy.”

Deli meatsAdrian Pardy first trained as a butcher at the Newlyns Farm Shop in Hampshire before being asked to take on responsibility for the deli counter.

“I love this job, talking to customers, getting them to try things and seeing the enjoyment on their faces,” says Adrian.

For a great meat centrepiece for a buffet, Adrian would personally be tempted to keep it really simple with generous servings of ham and beef.

All Newlyns ham is from the farm’s own free-range Berkshire-breed pigs and is cured on site, in a choice of finishes, breaded, smoked or glazed with marmalade or honey and mustard. The

farm produces its own beef as well, which is roasted rare, nothing added and sliced in the deli. “Beautiful,” pronounces Adrian.

Then there are Newlyns Farm Scotch eggs, real hale and hearty comfort food. “They are four times the size of a standard Scotch egg and a thousand times tastier.”

For a continental meat party platter, Adrian recommends a choice of two or three salamis, a chorizo and a Parma ham. His personal Continental favourite is Spanish Iberico Bellota salami... Iberico is the traditional breed of black pig and the bellota are the acorns they are fed on.

“It reminds me of a summer’s evening, relaxing with a glass of sherry and a bowl of olives,” he says.

Deli patisseriePeople pop in to Val Bolton’s Deli-Fine shop at Wrexham, in North Wales, intending to have just a modest coffee or tea, or sandwich, and then they see the cakes. They know they shouldn’t but...

“People do get tempted. We sell lots of cakes all day long to eat in and take away. I think they add something special to a deli counter,” says Val.

If she were inviting her own friends to an afternoon tea, she would serve her sweet favourites of lemon meringue pie, strawberry Bakewell, chocolate shortbread and scones.

“That’s a lovely selection and I think they are probably the most popular in the shop as well,” says Val, who has two suppliers of homemade cakes delivering two or three times a week. She likes to offer a changing selection of slices, muffins, shortbread and cutting cakes and takes orders for whole cakes and for desserts for dinner parties, as well. Old-timers such as egg custard tarts are really back in fashion.

“??????.”

FOOD FOCUS.indd 19 7/3/12 10:50:00

Food focus


Keeping things fresh is not a problem: “I put a tray of cakes out in the morning and by the end of the day, they are all gone.”

Val cannot imagine why people would want to buy cakes from the supermarket when they can have home-made from the deli.

“You can immediately tell the difference. The flavour is just completely different.”

Deli cheeseboardPearces Farm Shop, near Buntingford in Hertfordshire, has a repertoire of more than 100 cheeses and is proud of its British selection, representing the length and breadth of the nation, from Scotland to Sussex.

But when it comes to putting together a cheeseboard, cheese buyer Ruth Brierley recommends a less-is-more approach.

“You can have too many flavours on a cheeseboard. Three or four is plenty,” says Ruth.

A good cheeseboard has a good balance of flavours and textures. A great one also becomes a talking point, so when you are buying ask at the counter for interesting nuggets of information to

share with your guests. A cheese with some kind of individual

connection is a good starting point.“People love cheeses from places they

have visited or could visit,” says Ruth.When we ask her to suggest a classic

after-dinner selection that she might serve at her own dinner table, her first choice is the award-winning Cheddar aged for 12 months in Wookey Hole Caves in Somerset. It was Supreme Champion at last year’s International Food

Awards. Ruth also has a more personal reason for choosing this particular cheese.

“I am a bit partisan because I’m from Devon so I drive past Wookey Hole when I go to my parents.”

A cheese from Devon is also a must for Ruth and she suggests Beenleigh Blue. It’s slightly sweet and not as salty as a lot of blue cheeses. It is one of only three blue cheeses made in Britain using ewes’ milk.

For a soft cheese, Ruth plumps for a brie from the Scottish Highlands, Morangie, which proved particularly popular at Pearces for Burns Night earlier in the year.

Her final choice comes from much closer to home, Childwickbury (pronounced Chilbury) goats’ cheese, with a mild flavour, made every morning within hours of milking on a smallholding near St Albans. Nearly all of it is sold locally so you probably won’t find it on a deli counter near you but you will be sure to find your own local specialities and they will be just as delicious. FF

We just couldn’t resist suggesting some of our own deli counter favourites.

Our cheeseboard might include buttery Cotswold Brie from Simon Weaver’s Gloucestershire creamery, Teifi Original, a Gouda-style made by Welsh-Dutch cheesemakers John and Patrice Savage-Onstwedder and Paula van Werkhoven in Carmarthenshire, plus some Real Yorkshire Wensleydale and Cranberries from the Wensleydale Creamery.

Fresh fruit or one of Tracklements fruit cheeses in 100g pots, Damson, Gooseberry or Quince (probably one of each!) would be the perfect accompaniment. Anything from the Fudges savoury biscuits range is irresistible, with or without cheese.

Bread from Hobbs Bakery, their Wild White loaf, a yeast- and dairy-free sourdough, or their Fig & Walnut, would be a treat for a cheesy picnic.

Serious Pig’s Snacking Salami made with free-range pork from West Country farms is a tasty addition to the lunch box

and occasionally we indulge in a pork pie – it’s naughty, we know, but such a delicious weakness. The Queen-Size Crispy Classic from Walkers of Leicester is ideal for two people to share or for something a little more daring, Lincolshire piemakers Adams & Harlow, make a Red Devil version, with cheese and chilli.

For accompaniment, we’d love anything from Relish (the new branding of the Hawkshead Relish Company) because we love their beautiful black and white packaging as much as the fantastic taste. Red Onion Marmalade is our favourite but they do spicier stuff as well.

For a pie supper, we’d offer a choice, Spinach, Feta and Toasted Pinenut from Higgidy, or Pieminister’s Pietanic made with delicious chunks of MSC-certified smoked haddock, salmon and pollock.

A Daas Blond organic Belgian beer would accompany either nicely, or for sharing, one of Bonterra Wine’s whites with Luscombe Raspberry Lemonade for anyone who’s driving.

Fine Foodies at the deli counter

Reader offerFine Foodies is offering readers the chance to win an Olives Et Al Prize Winner’s Hamper to the value of £45. The company won an impressive 13 Great Taste Awards in 2011 and to celebrate they put them all into a hamper with some helpful recipe cards. Products include Aussie Olives, Tapenade Provencal, Romesco, Pesto alla Genovese, Rosemary & Sea Salt Reganas, Pink Mojo and Lemon & Dill dressings, Harissa Almonds, and Captain Tiptoes Wasabi. See page 6 for details.

FOOD FOCUS.indd 20 7/3/12 10:50:28

Food focus


Keeping things fresh is not a problem: “I put a tray of cakes out in the morning and by the end of the day, they are all gone.”

Val cannot imagine why people would want to buy cakes from the supermarket when they can have home-made from the deli.

“You can immediately tell the difference. The flavour is just completely different.”

Deli cheeseboardPearces Farm Shop, near Buntingford in Hertfordshire, has a repertoire of more than 100 cheeses and is proud of its British selection, representing the length and breadth of the nation, from Scotland to Sussex.

But when it comes to putting together a cheeseboard, cheese buyer Ruth Brierley recommends a less-is-more approach.

“You can have too many flavours on a cheeseboard. Three or four is plenty,” says Ruth.

A good cheeseboard has a good balance of flavours and textures. A great one also becomes a talking point, so when you are buying ask at the counter for interesting nuggets of information to

share with your guests. A cheese with some kind of individual

connection is a good starting point.“People love cheeses from places they

have visited or could visit,” says Ruth.When we ask her to suggest a classic

after-dinner selection that she might serve at her own dinner table, her first choice is the award-winning Cheddar aged for 12 months in Wookey Hole Caves in Somerset. It was Supreme Champion at last year’s International Food

Awards. Ruth also has a more personal reason for choosing this particular cheese.

“I am a bit partisan because I’m from Devon so I drive past Wookey Hole when I go to my parents.”

A cheese from Devon is also a must for Ruth and she suggests Beenleigh Blue. It’s slightly sweet and not as salty as a lot of blue cheeses. It is one of only three blue cheeses made in Britain using ewes’ milk.

For a soft cheese, Ruth plumps for a brie from the Scottish Highlands, Morangie, which proved particularly popular at Pearces for Burns Night earlier in the year.

Her final choice comes from much closer to home, Childwickbury (pronounced Chilbury) goats’ cheese, with a mild flavour, made every morning within hours of milking on a smallholding near St Albans. Nearly all of it is sold locally so you probably won’t find it on a deli counter near you but you will be sure to find your own local specialities and they will be just as delicious. FF

We just couldn’t resist suggesting some of our own deli counter favourites.

Our cheeseboard might include buttery Cotswold Brie from Simon Weaver’s Gloucestershire creamery, Teifi Original, a Gouda-style made by Welsh-Dutch cheesemakers John and Patrice Savage-Onstwedder and Paula van Werkhoven in Carmarthenshire, plus some Real Yorkshire Wensleydale and Cranberries from the Wensleydale Creamery.

Fresh fruit or one of Tracklements fruit cheeses in 100g pots, Damson, Gooseberry or Quince (probably one of each!) would be the perfect accompaniment. Anything from the Fudges savoury biscuits range is irresistible, with or without cheese.

Bread from Hobbs Bakery, their Wild White loaf, a yeast- and dairy-free sourdough, or their Fig & Walnut, would be a treat for a cheesy picnic.

Serious Pig’s Snacking Salami made with free-range pork from West Country farms is a tasty addition to the lunch box

and occasionally we indulge in a pork pie – it’s naughty, we know, but such a delicious weakness. The Queen-Size Crispy Classic from Walkers of Leicester is ideal for two people to share or for something a little more daring, Lincolshire piemakers Adams & Harlow, make a Red Devil version, with cheese and chilli.

For accompaniment, we’d love anything from Relish (the new branding of the Hawkshead Relish Company) because we love their beautiful black and white packaging as much as the fantastic taste. Red Onion Marmalade is our favourite but they do spicier stuff as well.

For a pie supper, we’d offer a choice, Spinach, Feta and Toasted Pinenut from Higgidy, or Pieminister’s Pietanic made with delicious chunks of MSC-certified smoked haddock, salmon and pollock.

A Daas Blond organic Belgian beer would accompany either nicely, or for sharing, one of Bonterra Wine’s whites with Luscombe Raspberry Lemonade for anyone who’s driving.

Fine Foodies at the deli counter

Reader offerFine Foodies is offering readers the chance to win an Olives Et Al Prize Winner’s Hamper to the value of £45. The company won an impressive 13 Great Taste Awards in 2011 and to celebrate they put them all into a hamper with some helpful recipe cards. Products include Aussie Olives, Tapenade Provencal, Romesco, Pesto alla Genovese, Rosemary & Sea Salt Reganas, Pink Mojo and Lemon & Dill dressings, Harissa Almonds, and Captain Tiptoes Wasabi. See page 6 for details.

FOOD FOCUS.indd 20 7/3/12 10:50:28 pg21 - Barbers FP.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:38

Eating home-grown, seasonal produce can be a challenge during the chillier months of the year, when fewer native

vegetables are available. But leeks will be lifted from the fields

for a few weeks yet, so enjoy them before they disappear until autumn.

Rain splash in the field often washes mud down between the leek’s layers, making them a trial to clean. If you

have ever cursed a muddy leek at the sink, take this tip from a Welshman who used to work at Riverford’s organic farm. Insert a knife just above the bottom of the leek and slice up to the top, splitting it in two with the halves still attached at the bottom. You can then easily wash the mud out under a running tap, shake off the excess water and put

the halves back together for slicing. Simple!

Incredibly versatile, leeks can be used in soups and stews as well as stir fries, sauces or roasted with cauliflower to bring out their flavour. Try Riverford chef Jane Baxter’s seasonal recipes below and opposite ‒ you may even convert veg-averse children with the pizza bread.

In season


Ingredients: • 2kg mussels in their shells• 4 leeks, finely chopped• 2 garlic cloves, crushed• Pinch of saffron• 1tsp good quality curry powder• 1tbsp olive oil• 15g unsalted butter• 250ml dry cider• 1 egg yolk• 250ml double cream• 1tsp cornflour• Handful of chopped parsley

Method: • Clean the mussels in cold water, remove their beards and discard any that are open.

• In a large pan, cook the leeks, garlic, saffron and curry powder in the oil and butter for about 10 minutes. Add the cider, bring to a boil and throw in the mussels. Cover, and leave on a high heat until the mussels start to open.• Strain the mussels and keep warm.• Return the cooking liquor to the pan and reduce by half over a high heat. Whisk the egg yolk with the cream and cornflour, then add the mixture slowly to the hot sauce, whisking all the time. The sauce should thicken.• Pour over the mussels and sprinkle with parsley. Warn your diners to discard any mussels that remain shut.

Quick mouclade of mussels Serves 4By Jane Baxter, from Everyday and Sunday ‒ Recipes from Riverford Farm Cookbook. The sauce, combining leeks, mussels and curry, is the sort that makes you want to pick up the bowl and down the lot!

Lovelyleeks

in season.indd 22 7/3/12 10:52:05

Eating home-grown, seasonal produce can be a challenge during the chillier months of the year, when fewer native

vegetables are available. But leeks will be lifted from the fields

for a few weeks yet, so enjoy them before they disappear until autumn.

Rain splash in the field often washes mud down between the leek’s layers, making them a trial to clean. If you

have ever cursed a muddy leek at the sink, take this tip from a Welshman who used to work at Riverford’s organic farm. Insert a knife just above the bottom of the leek and slice up to the top, splitting it in two with the halves still attached at the bottom. You can then easily wash the mud out under a running tap, shake off the excess water and put

the halves back together for slicing. Simple!

Incredibly versatile, leeks can be used in soups and stews as well as stir fries, sauces or roasted with cauliflower to bring out their flavour. Try Riverford chef Jane Baxter’s seasonal recipes below and opposite ‒ you may even convert veg-averse children with the pizza bread.

In season


Ingredients: • 2kg mussels in their shells• 4 leeks, finely chopped• 2 garlic cloves, crushed• Pinch of saffron• 1tsp good quality curry powder• 1tbsp olive oil• 15g unsalted butter• 250ml dry cider• 1 egg yolk• 250ml double cream• 1tsp cornflour• Handful of chopped parsley

Method: • Clean the mussels in cold water, remove their beards and discard any that are open.

• In a large pan, cook the leeks, garlic, saffron and curry powder in the oil and butter for about 10 minutes. Add the cider, bring to a boil and throw in the mussels. Cover, and leave on a high heat until the mussels start to open.• Strain the mussels and keep warm.• Return the cooking liquor to the pan and reduce by half over a high heat. Whisk the egg yolk with the cream and cornflour, then add the mixture slowly to the hot sauce, whisking all the time. The sauce should thicken.• Pour over the mussels and sprinkle with parsley. Warn your diners to discard any mussels that remain shut.

Quick mouclade of mussels Serves 4By Jane Baxter, from Everyday and Sunday ‒ Recipes from Riverford Farm Cookbook. The sauce, combining leeks, mussels and curry, is the sort that makes you want to pick up the bowl and down the lot!

Lovelyleeks

in season.indd 22 7/3/12 10:52:05


Leek and Roquefort pizza bread Serves 4By Jane Baxter, Riverford Field Kitchen, taken from the Riverford Farm Cook Book

Ingredients:• 40ml olive oil• 1 garlic clove, peeled• 1 bird’s eye chilli, halved• 25g butter• 2 small leeks, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced across

• 30g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated• 100g mozzarella cheese, grated• 1½ tbsp finely chopped oregano• 1½ tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

• 60g Roquefort or other blue cheese, crumbled

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the dough:• 300g strong white flour• 7g sachet of dried yeast• 1tsp salt• 180ml lukewarm water• 1½ tbsp olive oil

Method: • Put the olive oil, garlic and chilli in a small bowl and set aside to infuse the oil. To make the dough, combine the flour, yeast and salt in a bowl, then stir in the water and oil. • Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for five to eight minutes, until smooth and elastic. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with cling film and set aside in a warm place for one hour or until doubled in size.• Meanwhile, heat the butter in a small frying pan, add the leeks and cook over a low to medium heat for about 10 minutes, until soft but not coloured and

season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.• Place two heavy-based baking sheets or terracotta tiles in the oven and preheat the oven to 250°C/Gas Mark 10. Combine the Parmesan, mozzarella and herbs in a small bowl.• Cut four sheets of baking parchment, each large enough to hold a 22cm pizza. Divide the risen dough into four. Dust the pieces of baking parchment with a little

flour and roll out each piece of dough on the parchment, making a round about 22cm in diameter. Brush with the flavoured oil and scatter with the cheese mixture, followed by the leeks, then the Roquefort. • Slide on pizza, still on the paper, onto each hot baking sheet or tile and bake for eight to 10 minutes, until golden. Serve immediately. Cook the remaining pizzas in the same way.

in season.indd 23 7/3/12 10:52:20

Product news


DISCOVER THESE PRODUCTS IN STORE NOW

In your store

TEAS WITH A SENSE OF CEREMONYWhen tea was first discovered, it was savoured as a rare commodity. With it’s rise in popularity and mass production, tea has become a drink that is often consumed in a rush, with no sense of ceremony. Newby aims to bring tea back up to its elevated position and has created a range of flowering Chinese teas. When steeped in hot water, each blossom magically unfurls into a stunning floral display. As only the finest quality green teas are selected to create these hand-made flowering teas, they taste as good as they look. For more information, visit www.newbyteas.com or www.cheztoi.co.uk

EXCITE YOUR TASTE BUDSBased in the Heart of England, The Kitchens fine foods co. offer a

fantastic range of chutneys and sauces combining flavours that will really get your taste buds excited! They source their ingredients locally where possible and all of their products are hand-made in small batches to ensure optimum quality. The Kitchens’ focus is on delivering excellent products with great customer service. Whether you’re looking for something sweet or spicy, aromatic or mellow, they will have something that you’ll love. READER OFFER: 10% off your first order offer!!! For more information, visit our website at www.thekitchensfinefoods.co.uk

AWARD-WINNING MINTSSummerdown grows and harvests traditional Black Mitcham peppermint and distils its pure mint oil. They use it to manufacture their unique brand of peppermint products, including these stylish chocolate peppermint creams, chocolate mint thins and their exceptional peppermint tea ‒ between them they’ve won six Great Taste Awards in three years! The single

estate quality oil has a highly distinctive and smooth taste ‒ a taste that has been lost for generations. Bright, fresh and aromatic, it is very different from the harsher, blended, imported peppermint of the past 60 years. To find out more call 01256 780252 or visit www.summerdownmint.com

THE ARTISAN BAKER’S CHOICEGilchesters is a busy family-run business in the beautiful county of Northumberland. They pride themselves on the fact that the delicious baking you do with their flours, the Spelt biscuits you nibble with your cheese, all started as grain in their fields. Once harvested they get their mill stones grinding and let the flour flow...Gilchesters ranges of organic flours are finely stone-ground, full of flavour and the artisan baker’s choice! Their savoury Spelt biscuits are handcrafted and ideal to accompany cheese, patés or just when you need a naughty nibble. Packed with goodness ‒ even wheat-sensitive customers can enjoy them for Spelt is a healthy and delicious alternative to wheat. Call 01661 886119 or email [email protected]

A TOUCH OF GARLICThe Garlic Farm on the Isle of Wight has been growing garlic for over 30 years although these days it’s not just

about the bulb. They also do chutneys, relishes and mayo’s - all with a touch of garlic of course. But more recently they’ve added to their butter family with Garlic Butter with Oak Smoked Tomatoes and Tarragon, it’s great on new potatoes or liberally applied to corn on the cob! For more information visit www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk, email [email protected] or tel: 01983 865378/mobile: 07970 763083.

Pg24 - POTP Finefoodies_spring.indd 24 14/03/2012 10:02

Product news


DISCOVER THESE PRODUCTS IN STORE NOW

In your store

TEAS WITH A SENSE OF CEREMONYWhen tea was first discovered, it was savoured as a rare commodity. With it’s rise in popularity and mass production, tea has become a drink that is often consumed in a rush, with no sense of ceremony. Newby aims to bring tea back up to its elevated position and has created a range of flowering Chinese teas. When steeped in hot water, each blossom magically unfurls into a stunning floral display. As only the finest quality green teas are selected to create these hand-made flowering teas, they taste as good as they look. For more information, visit www.newbyteas.com or www.cheztoi.co.uk

EXCITE YOUR TASTE BUDSBased in the Heart of England, The Kitchens fine foods co. offer a

fantastic range of chutneys and sauces combining flavours that will really get your taste buds excited! They source their ingredients locally where possible and all of their products are hand-made in small batches to ensure optimum quality. The Kitchens’ focus is on delivering excellent products with great customer service. Whether you’re looking for something sweet or spicy, aromatic or mellow, they will have something that you’ll love. READER OFFER: 10% off your first order offer!!! For more information, visit our website at www.thekitchensfinefoods.co.uk

AWARD-WINNING MINTSSummerdown grows and harvests traditional Black Mitcham peppermint and distils its pure mint oil. They use it to manufacture their unique brand of peppermint products, including these stylish chocolate peppermint creams, chocolate mint thins and their exceptional peppermint tea ‒ between them they’ve won six Great Taste Awards in three years! The single

estate quality oil has a highly distinctive and smooth taste ‒ a taste that has been lost for generations. Bright, fresh and aromatic, it is very different from the harsher, blended, imported peppermint of the past 60 years. To find out more call 01256 780252 or visit www.summerdownmint.com

THE ARTISAN BAKER’S CHOICEGilchesters is a busy family-run business in the beautiful county of Northumberland. They pride themselves on the fact that the delicious baking you do with their flours, the Spelt biscuits you nibble with your cheese, all started as grain in their fields. Once harvested they get their mill stones grinding and let the flour flow...Gilchesters ranges of organic flours are finely stone-ground, full of flavour and the artisan baker’s choice! Their savoury Spelt biscuits are handcrafted and ideal to accompany cheese, patés or just when you need a naughty nibble. Packed with goodness ‒ even wheat-sensitive customers can enjoy them for Spelt is a healthy and delicious alternative to wheat. Call 01661 886119 or email [email protected]

A TOUCH OF GARLICThe Garlic Farm on the Isle of Wight has been growing garlic for over 30 years although these days it’s not just

about the bulb. They also do chutneys, relishes and mayo’s - all with a touch of garlic of course. But more recently they’ve added to their butter family with Garlic Butter with Oak Smoked Tomatoes and Tarragon, it’s great on new potatoes or liberally applied to corn on the cob! For more information visit www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk, email [email protected] or tel: 01983 865378/mobile: 07970 763083.

Pg24 - POTP Finefoodies_spring.indd 24 14/03/2012 10:02 Pg25 - ADS.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:40

Gordon’sGordon’sgreat escape

Following his culinary adventure across India, Gordon Ramsay offers 100 classic recipes in his latest book, Gordon Ramsay’s Great Escape.

Recipes


Ingredients: • 800g boneless and skinless chicken thighs, cut into 3-4cm pieces

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed

• 2cm ginger, peeled and finely grated• ½ tsp fine sea salt• ½ tsp hot chilli powder• 1½ tbsp lemon juice• 75ml natural yoghurt• ½ tsp garam masala• ½ tsp ground turmeric • 1tsp ground cumin• 1-2tbsp vegetable oil, for brushing

Sauce:• 1½ tbsp ghee or melted unsalted butter• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped• 2cm ginger, peeled and finely chopped• 1 cardamom pod, seeds lightly crushed• 2 cloves• 1tsp ground coriander• 1tsp garam masala• 1tsp ground turmeric• 1tsp hot chilli powder, or to taste• 275ml tomato puree • 1tbsp lemon juice• 40g unsalted butter• 100ml double cream• 1tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Method:• Place the chicken in a bowl with the garlic, ginger, salt, chilli powder and lemon juice. Mix, cover with cling film and chill for 30 minutes. Mix together the yoghurt, garam masala, turmeric and cumin and add to the chicken, making sure that each piece is well coated with the mixture. Cover again and chill for three to four hours.• Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas

4. Put the marinated chicken pieces on a grill rack set on a baking tray and bake for eight to 10 minutes. Brush the chicken pieces with a little oil and turn them over. Bake for another 10 to 12 minutes until just cooked through.• For the sauce, heat the ghee or butter in a pan and add the garlic and ginger. Fry for a minute or so then add the cardamom, cloves, coriander, garam masala, turmeric

and chilli powder. Stir well and fry for one to two minutes until they give off a

lovely aroma. Stir in the tomato puree and lemon juice and cook for another couple of minutes. Add the chicken pieces to the sauce and stir well to coat. Finally, add the butter and cream and stir continuously until the butter has melted and the sauce is smooth.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a warm bowl and serve hot,

garnished with chopped coriander.

Butter chicken Serves 4Butter chicken, or murgh makhani, was one of the first dishes I tasted when I went to India. Its origins can be traced back to Moghul times, but the dish and its history is most closely associated with Delhi’s famous Moti Mahal restaurant, where I had the pleasure of eating this fantastic dish. Over time, numerous chefs have attempted to emulate the rich buttery sauce, and flavours vary slightly between restaurants. This is my version of the classic dish.

gordon ramsay.indd 26 7/3/12 10:54:20

Gordon’sGordon’sgreat escape

Following his culinary adventure across India, Gordon Ramsay offers 100 classic recipes in his latest book, Gordon Ramsay’s Great Escape.

Recipes


Ingredients: • 800g boneless and skinless chicken thighs, cut into 3-4cm pieces

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed

• 2cm ginger, peeled and finely grated• ½ tsp fine sea salt• ½ tsp hot chilli powder• 1½ tbsp lemon juice• 75ml natural yoghurt• ½ tsp garam masala• ½ tsp ground turmeric • 1tsp ground cumin• 1-2tbsp vegetable oil, for brushing

Sauce:• 1½ tbsp ghee or melted unsalted butter• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped• 2cm ginger, peeled and finely chopped• 1 cardamom pod, seeds lightly crushed• 2 cloves• 1tsp ground coriander• 1tsp garam masala• 1tsp ground turmeric• 1tsp hot chilli powder, or to taste• 275ml tomato puree • 1tbsp lemon juice• 40g unsalted butter• 100ml double cream• 1tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Method:• Place the chicken in a bowl with the garlic, ginger, salt, chilli powder and lemon juice. Mix, cover with cling film and chill for 30 minutes. Mix together the yoghurt, garam masala, turmeric and cumin and add to the chicken, making sure that each piece is well coated with the mixture. Cover again and chill for three to four hours.• Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas

4. Put the marinated chicken pieces on a grill rack set on a baking tray and bake for eight to 10 minutes. Brush the chicken pieces with a little oil and turn them over. Bake for another 10 to 12 minutes until just cooked through.• For the sauce, heat the ghee or butter in a pan and add the garlic and ginger. Fry for a minute or so then add the cardamom, cloves, coriander, garam masala, turmeric

and chilli powder. Stir well and fry for one to two minutes until they give off a

lovely aroma. Stir in the tomato puree and lemon juice and cook for another couple of minutes. Add the chicken pieces to the sauce and stir well to coat. Finally, add the butter and cream and stir continuously until the butter has melted and the sauce is smooth.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a warm bowl and serve hot,

garnished with chopped coriander.

Butter chicken Serves 4Butter chicken, or murgh makhani, was one of the first dishes I tasted when I went to India. Its origins can be traced back to Moghul times, but the dish and its history is most closely associated with Delhi’s famous Moti Mahal restaurant, where I had the pleasure of eating this fantastic dish. Over time, numerous chefs have attempted to emulate the rich buttery sauce, and flavours vary slightly between restaurants. This is my version of the classic dish.


great escape

Ingredients:• Large bunch of long spring onions, about 10-12

• 4 large or 6 small ready-made chapattis• 2.75kg leg of lamb, boned, butterflied and rolled

• 2 large banana leaves

Marinade:• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped• 2tbsp ghee, or melted unsalted butter• 1tsp sea salt, or to taste• 1tsp hot chilli powder• 1tsp ground coriander• 1tsp garam masala• 1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped• 3 ripe plum tomatoes, roughly chopped• Small bunch coriander, leaves and stems roughly chopped

• Juice of ½ lemon (or 2tbsp ground kachri)

Dry spice rub:• 1tsp fine sea salt• 1tsp hot chilli powder• 2tsp garam masala

Method:

• First, make the marinade. Put all the ingredients into a food processor and blend to a wet paste, stopping the machine to scrape down the bowl of the processor a few times. Transfer the paste to a bowl and set aside. In another small bowl, mix together the ingredients for the dry spice rub.• Lightly blanch the spring onions in a pan of boiling water for about a minute to soften them. Refresh under cold running water and drain well.• Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Lay out four long strings along a work surface, about 5cm apart. Overlap the chapattis on top to form a rough triangle that is wide and long enough to wrap around the leg of lamb. Arrange the blanched spring onions in a single layer on top. • Open out the lamb, skinned-side up, on a chopping board and sprinkle all over with the dry spice rub. Turn the lamb around and lay on top of the spring onions. Spread the marinade all along the boned side of the meat. Roll the lamb into a log then wrap the

chapattis and spring onions around the joint and secure with the strings. Put the whole thing on two large, overlapping banana leaves that have been softened slightly over a low flame. Wrap the leaves around the lamb like a parcel, again securing with string.• Put on a large roasting tin and roast for about 1¼ to 1¾ hours until the lamb has just cooked through. To check, insert a metal skewer into the centre of the joint for 10 seconds then remove and feel it against your wrist. It should feel hot. Remove the lamb from the oven and leave to rest for about 15 to 20 minutes. • To serve, unwrap the banana leaves and remove the strings. Unwrap the chapattis and transfer the lamb to a carving board. Slice thickly then serve each slice on a chapatti, which would have absorbed some marinade and the flavourful juices from the meat during cooking. To add some fresh flavours, serve with a sliced tomato, cucumber, onion and mint salad.

Spiced leg of lamb wrapped with spring onions Serves 6This is my modern take on a Rajasthani classic called khud khargosh, an ingenious recipe for pit-roasting meat in the desert using only natural resources: hot coals and desert sand. I was shown how to make the original recipe by the nephew of the Maharajah of Jodphur and was told that the dish was traditionally made with hare (khargosh) until the hunting ban in the 1970s, which led to the popular use of goat or mutton. The original tenderiser for the meat came in the form of kachri, which resembles a small yellowish-brown melon growing wild in the desert areas. Cooked fresh, kachri tastes of a mildly sour melon but it is also frequently dried and ground into a powder. It is rarely found outside of Rajasthan in either form, but I find that a little lemon juice provides a similar effect.



Recipes


Sambar Serves 4-6This is a thin vegetable stew flavoured with tamarind and thickened with tuvar dal, which is very popular in the southern regions, especially in Andhra Pradesh Karnatake, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. Each region has a particular way of eating sambar, but it is almost always served with green coconut and tomato chutneys and either rice or an Indian flat bread, such as dosa. I had the honour of making my first sambar with Sambar Mani, who grew up in one of Mumbai’s largest slums, and he now makes a good living catering for small and large events within the slums. Mani has had a lifelong love of cooking and his attention to detail shows in his food. His sambar was absolutely delicious, unlike any Indian vegetarian food I had tried previously in the UK. This recipe is my humble attempt at replicating the flavours of Mani’s sambar.

Ingredients: Marinade:• 2tsp fenugreek seeds• 1tbsp yellow split peas• 2tsp coriander seeds• 6 curry leaves• 4 dried red chillies

Sambar: • 200g split pigeon pea lentils (tuvar dal)• 6 curry leaves• 100g tamarind pulp• 2tbsp vegetable oil• 1tsp mustard seeds• 1tsp fennel seeds• ½ tsp cumin seeds• 4 dried red chillies• 1 medium aubergine, trimmed and cut into 2cm pieces• ¼ butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into 2cm pieces

• 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 2cm pieces• 1tsp ground turmeric• 1tsp sea salt, or to taste• 50g okra, washed, dried and trimmed• 4 tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped• 1tsp ground coriander• 1tsp red chilli powder• Small bunch coriander, leaves picked and chopped• 1tbsp ghee or melted unsalted butter

Method:• Place a frying pan over a medium heat and carefully roast all the ingredients for the masala. When the spices begin to smell very fragrant and are nicely roasted, remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool completely. Use a spice grinder or pestle and mortar to grind the spices into a powder. Tip into a small bowl and add enough water, about three to four tablespoons, to form a thick paste with a slow-dropping consistency.• Put the tuvar dal and curry leaves into a medium saucepan and cover with 1½ litres of water. Bring to the boil and skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat slightly and leave to simmer for 25 to 30 minutes or until the lentils are tender. Drain and set aside.• Soak the tamarind in 200ml of hot water for 20 minutes; use your hands to break down the block into smaller pieces. Strain the mixture through a sieve and discard the husk and seeds.• Heat the vegetable oil in a large pan and add the

mustard, fennel and cumin seeds and the dried chillies. Cook for one minute or until the spices become very fragrant. Add the aubergine, butternut squash and carrots, stirring well to coat the vegetables in the spices. After two to three minutes add the turmeric, salt and tamarind water to the pan and bring to the boil. Boil for eight to 10 minutes or until the vegetables are tender but not mushy. • Add the okra, cooked lentils, ground masala spice, chopped tomatoes, ground coriander and chilli powder to the pan and stir well. Add more water to the pan if necessary (the sambar should be quite thin in consistency). Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and leave to simmer for five minutes until the okra is just tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning.• Just before serving, stir through the chopped coriander and ghee or butter. Serve the sambar hot with freshly steamed rice and warm Indian breads.

Discover more recipes in Gordon Ramsay’s Great Escape (HarperCollins, £15.99). Images © Emma Lee.


Recipes


Sambar Serves 4-6This is a thin vegetable stew flavoured with tamarind and thickened with tuvar dal, which is very popular in the southern regions, especially in Andhra Pradesh Karnatake, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. Each region has a particular way of eating sambar, but it is almost always served with green coconut and tomato chutneys and either rice or an Indian flat bread, such as dosa. I had the honour of making my first sambar with Sambar Mani, who grew up in one of Mumbai’s largest slums, and he now makes a good living catering for small and large events within the slums. Mani has had a lifelong love of cooking and his attention to detail shows in his food. His sambar was absolutely delicious, unlike any Indian vegetarian food I had tried previously in the UK. This recipe is my humble attempt at replicating the flavours of Mani’s sambar.

Ingredients: Marinade:• 2tsp fenugreek seeds• 1tbsp yellow split peas• 2tsp coriander seeds• 6 curry leaves• 4 dried red chillies

Sambar: • 200g split pigeon pea lentils (tuvar dal)• 6 curry leaves• 100g tamarind pulp• 2tbsp vegetable oil• 1tsp mustard seeds• 1tsp fennel seeds• ½ tsp cumin seeds• 4 dried red chillies• 1 medium aubergine, trimmed and cut into 2cm pieces• ¼ butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into 2cm pieces

• 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 2cm pieces• 1tsp ground turmeric• 1tsp sea salt, or to taste• 50g okra, washed, dried and trimmed• 4 tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped• 1tsp ground coriander• 1tsp red chilli powder• Small bunch coriander, leaves picked and chopped• 1tbsp ghee or melted unsalted butter

Method:• Place a frying pan over a medium heat and carefully roast all the ingredients for the masala. When the spices begin to smell very fragrant and are nicely roasted, remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool completely. Use a spice grinder or pestle and mortar to grind the spices into a powder. Tip into a small bowl and add enough water, about three to four tablespoons, to form a thick paste with a slow-dropping consistency.• Put the tuvar dal and curry leaves into a medium saucepan and cover with 1½ litres of water. Bring to the boil and skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat slightly and leave to simmer for 25 to 30 minutes or until the lentils are tender. Drain and set aside.• Soak the tamarind in 200ml of hot water for 20 minutes; use your hands to break down the block into smaller pieces. Strain the mixture through a sieve and discard the husk and seeds.• Heat the vegetable oil in a large pan and add the

mustard, fennel and cumin seeds and the dried chillies. Cook for one minute or until the spices become very fragrant. Add the aubergine, butternut squash and carrots, stirring well to coat the vegetables in the spices. After two to three minutes add the turmeric, salt and tamarind water to the pan and bring to the boil. Boil for eight to 10 minutes or until the vegetables are tender but not mushy. • Add the okra, cooked lentils, ground masala spice, chopped tomatoes, ground coriander and chilli powder to the pan and stir well. Add more water to the pan if necessary (the sambar should be quite thin in consistency). Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and leave to simmer for five minutes until the okra is just tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning.• Just before serving, stir through the chopped coriander and ghee or butter. Serve the sambar hot with freshly steamed rice and warm Indian breads.

Discover more recipes in Gordon Ramsay’s Great Escape (HarperCollins, £15.99). Images © Emma Lee.

gordon ramsay.indd 28 7/3/12 10:55:01 Pg29 - ADS.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:41

Cooking withMary One of Britain’s best-loved chefs, Mary

Berry’s latest work features more than 1,000 tried and tested recipes for the ultimate family cookbook.

Ingredients:• 1kg (2lb) spinach leaves • 375g (12oz) ricotta cheese • 3 eggs • 4tbsp grated parmesan cheese • Pinch of grated nutmeg • Salt and black pepper • 60-75g (2-2½oz) plain flour

Tomato sauce:• 30g (1oz) butter • 1 small onion, chopped • 1 small carrot, chopped • 30g (1oz) plain flour • 1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes • 300ml (½pint) vegetable stock • 1 bay leaf • 1tsp caster sugar

To serve:• 125g (4oz) butter• Grated parmesan cheese and parmesan

shavings

Method: • Wash the spinach and put into a saucepan with only the water remaining on the leaves. Cook over a gentle heat until just wilted. Drain the spinach thoroughly, squeezing to remove any excess water. • Put the spinach, ricotta, eggs, Parmesan and nutmeg into a food processor, season with salt and pepper and purée until smooth. Turn into a bowl and gradually add flour until the mixture just holds its shape. • Using 2 dessertspoons, form the mixture into 20 oval shapes. Cover and chill in the

refrigerator for one hour. • Make the tomato sauce;

melt the butter in a pan, add the onion and carrot, and cook for 10

minutes or until softened. Sprinkle in the flour and

cook, stirring, for one minute. Add the

tomatoes, stock, bay leaf, and sugar, season with salt

and pepper, and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 30

minutes. Purée in a food processor until smooth. Keep hot.

• Cook the gnocchi in batches in boiling salted water for about five minutes or until

they float to the surface. Lift out and keep hot. Melt the butter and pour over the gnocchi. Serve the gnocchi hot, with the tomato sauce, grated Parmesan, and Parmesan shavings.

Spinach gnocchi with tomato sauce Serves 4

Recipes


recipe mary berry.indd 30 7/3/12 10:57:39

Cooking withMary One of Britain’s best-loved chefs, Mary

Berry’s latest work features more than 1,000 tried and tested recipes for the ultimate family cookbook.

Ingredients:• 1kg (2lb) spinach leaves • 375g (12oz) ricotta cheese • 3 eggs • 4tbsp grated parmesan cheese • Pinch of grated nutmeg • Salt and black pepper • 60-75g (2-2½oz) plain flour

Tomato sauce:• 30g (1oz) butter • 1 small onion, chopped • 1 small carrot, chopped • 30g (1oz) plain flour • 1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes • 300ml (½pint) vegetable stock • 1 bay leaf • 1tsp caster sugar

To serve:• 125g (4oz) butter• Grated parmesan cheese and parmesan

shavings

Method: • Wash the spinach and put into a saucepan with only the water remaining on the leaves. Cook over a gentle heat until just wilted. Drain the spinach thoroughly, squeezing to remove any excess water. • Put the spinach, ricotta, eggs, Parmesan and nutmeg into a food processor, season with salt and pepper and purée until smooth. Turn into a bowl and gradually add flour until the mixture just holds its shape. • Using 2 dessertspoons, form the mixture into 20 oval shapes. Cover and chill in the

refrigerator for one hour. • Make the tomato sauce;

melt the butter in a pan, add the onion and carrot, and cook for 10

minutes or until softened. Sprinkle in the flour and

cook, stirring, for one minute. Add the

tomatoes, stock, bay leaf, and sugar, season with salt

and pepper, and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 30

minutes. Purée in a food processor until smooth. Keep hot.

• Cook the gnocchi in batches in boiling salted water for about five minutes or until

they float to the surface. Lift out and keep hot. Melt the butter and pour over the gnocchi. Serve the gnocchi hot, with the tomato sauce, grated Parmesan, and Parmesan shavings.

Spinach gnocchi with tomato sauce Serves 4

Recipes



Ingredients: • 2kg (4lb) chicken, boned• 4 thin slices of cooked ham • 125g (4oz) pistachio nuts, shelled • 60g (2oz) butter, softened • 600ml (1pint) chicken stock

Stuffing:• 500g (1lb) belly pork • 375g (12oz) chicken livers, trimmed • 250g (8oz) streaky bacon rashers, rinds removed, coarsely chopped

• 2 shallots, quartered • 2 garlic cloves • 4tbsp brandy • 2tsp chopped fresh thyme

• 1tsp chopped fresh sage• ½ tsp ground ginger • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • Salt and black pepper

Method: • Make the stuffing; chop the pork into 5mm (¼ in) pieces, and place in a bowl.• Purée the chicken livers, bacon, shallots, garlic, and brandy in a food processor until smooth. Add to the pork in the bowl with the thyme, sage, ginger, and cinnamon, and season generously with salt and pepper. Stir well to combine. • Place the boned chicken, skin-side down, between two pieces of cling film and pound to an even thickness with a rolling pin.

• Remove the cling film from the chicken, and assemble the ballotine. Tie several pieces of string around the chicken to keep it in shape. • Spread the softened butter over the chicken skin, and season generously with salt and pepper. Place the chicken roll on a wire rack in a roasting tin. • Bring the stock to a boil, and pour over the chicken in the roasting tin. Cook in a preheated oven at 160°C (140°C fan/Gas 3), basting occasionally and adding more stock if necessary, for two hours or until the juices run clear when the chicken is pierced. • Transfer the ballotine to a plate, and leave to cool. Cover and chill overnight. Cut into thin slices to serve.

Ballotine of chicken Serves 10A ballotine is a bird or cut of meat that has been boned, stuffed, and rolled. It is slowly cooked in the oven, allowed to cool, then chilled for several hours or overnight until firm. With its colourful, pistachio-studded filling, this ballotine makes an excellent centrepiece for a buffet party, and is easy to slice and serve.


Cook’s know-how Classic French ballotine recipes wrap the chicken roll in muslin before cooking, but this is not necessary.


Ingredients:• 125g (4oz) plain chocolate• 2tbsp water • 300ml (½ pint) milk • 45g (1½ oz) butter, plus extra for greasing • 45g (1½ oz) plain flour• 2-3 drops of vanilla extract • 60g (2oz) caster sugar • 4 egg yolks • 5 egg whites • Sifted icing sugar for dusting • 4 x 300ml (½ pint) soufflé dishes

Method:• Break the chocolate into pieces, and put into a small saucepan with the measured water and a few tablespoons of the milk. Heat gently, stirring, until the chocolate has melted. Add the remaining milk, stirring to blend.

• Melt the butter in a pan, add the flour, and cook, stirring, for one minute. Remove from the heat, and gradually add the chocolate and milk mixture. Bring to a boil, stirring, until the sauce has thickened. Stir in the vanilla extract and caster sugar, and leave to cool. • Beat the egg yolks into the cooled chocolate mixture. Lightly butter the individual soufflé dishes and set aside.• Whisk the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Stir one large spoonful of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then carefully fold in the remainder. Divide the mixture among the four soufflé dishes.

• Place on a hot baking tray and bake in a preheated oven at 190°C (170°C fan/Gas 5) for 40-45 minutes until the soufflés are well risen and firm. Dust with sifted icing sugar. Serve the soufflés at once.

Hot chocolate soufflés Serves 4

Cook’s know-how If you prefer, you can make one large soufflé instead of individual soufflés. Simply use one 1.25 litre (2 pint) soufflé dish and bake in the oven for 45-50 minutes. Another alternative is to make eight small soufflés, ideal for a dinner party after a rich main course. If you use eight 150 ml (¼ pint) dishes they will take about 20-30 minutes to bake in the oven.

Recipes


Mary Berry’s Complete Cookbook, published by DK, priced £25, is available from dk.com


Ingredients:• 125g (4oz) plain chocolate• 2tbsp water • 300ml (½ pint) milk • 45g (1½ oz) butter, plus extra for greasing • 45g (1½ oz) plain flour• 2-3 drops of vanilla extract • 60g (2oz) caster sugar • 4 egg yolks • 5 egg whites • Sifted icing sugar for dusting • 4 x 300ml (½ pint) soufflé dishes

Method:• Break the chocolate into pieces, and put into a small saucepan with the measured water and a few tablespoons of the milk. Heat gently, stirring, until the chocolate has melted. Add the remaining milk, stirring to blend.

• Melt the butter in a pan, add the flour, and cook, stirring, for one minute. Remove from the heat, and gradually add the chocolate and milk mixture. Bring to a boil, stirring, until the sauce has thickened. Stir in the vanilla extract and caster sugar, and leave to cool. • Beat the egg yolks into the cooled chocolate mixture. Lightly butter the individual soufflé dishes and set aside.• Whisk the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Stir one large spoonful of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then carefully fold in the remainder. Divide the mixture among the four soufflé dishes.

• Place on a hot baking tray and bake in a preheated oven at 190°C (170°C fan/Gas 5) for 40-45 minutes until the soufflés are well risen and firm. Dust with sifted icing sugar. Serve the soufflés at once.

Hot chocolate soufflés Serves 4

Cook’s know-how If you prefer, you can make one large soufflé instead of individual soufflés. Simply use one 1.25 litre (2 pint) soufflé dish and bake in the oven for 45-50 minutes. Another alternative is to make eight small soufflés, ideal for a dinner party after a rich main course. If you use eight 150 ml (¼ pint) dishes they will take about 20-30 minutes to bake in the oven.

Recipes


Mary Berry’s Complete Cookbook, published by DK, priced £25, is available from dk.com

recipe mary berry.indd 32 7/3/12 10:58:17 Pg33 - ADS.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:44

Global foodie


In the mountainous and rocky Greek countryside, it is not possible to pasture large herds and provide meat for everybody. Thus, until recently Greeks have

been mainly vegetarian, not by choice but by necessity.

Since ancient times right up until the late 1960s, meat was a rare, festive dish consumed on Sundays, at Easter and Christmas, and during important family feasts. The traditional diet is, in fact, based on regional, seasonal produce; garden vegetables and leafy greens called horta, which are either foraged from the hills and fields in the winter and early spring, or cultivated, various kinds of dandelion and chicory, mustard greens – both sweet and bitter – and of course chard, spinach and in the summer vlita (amaranth shoots).

People following the new trend of foraged greens can learn a lot from the Greeks. Besides greens, seasonal vegetables are the basic element used in dishes served every day at Greek tables. These often go hand in hand with pulses, beans of all kinds, chickpeas, lentils and grains, mainly in the form of bread, vegetables and greens enriched with fruity olive oil and complemented with olives, local cheeses, yogurt, occasionally fresh or cured fish, and small amounts of meat.

It is a sensible fare followed for hundreds of years by previous generations not because they chose to eat healthily, but because they had to make do with whatever was available.

Cooking stylesThe female cooks all over Greece invented a myriad of ways to make up horta (leafy greens) or squash in the winter, and zucchini later in the spring, for example.

For months, these were the only vegetables they could get and they

devised many different dishes for them; greens or zucchini are braised with onion or garlic with the addition of bulgur, rice, or potatoes to make a main course that is often accompanied by feta or some other cheese. Larger leafy greens can be rolled around a stuffing of rice and herbs, while zucchini and squash are hollowed and filled with a similar stuffing.

Seasonal vegetables are braised with lamb, pork or veal for more festive Sunday meals, along with wild greens or curly endive, the outer leaves of lettuce, celery or artichokes braised with meat and often served with creamy avgolemono (egg and lemon sauce).

There is a plethora of pites (thin filo-wrapped pies) that can contain every kind of vegetable, herb and green, together with cheese or leftover meat and herbs. Pites, to me, epitomise the home-cook’s ingenuity; small scraps of anything, often just a few garden herbs together with cheese and eggs, are transformed into wonderful crunchy delicacies, enclosed in filo crust that home cooks roll with the dexterity of a ballet dancer, from a dough of just flour, water and olive oil.

Hortopita (greens pie), also called spanakopita (spinach pie), is probably the most common example, although the one you are likely to find in Greek restaurants bears little resemblance to the real thing.

After the mid1960s, as the country became more affluent, meat gradually began to play a significant role in people’s everyday diet.

Around that time, the Greek demographic structure changed. At least four out of 10 middle-aged Greeks who, in the early 21st century lived in the big cities – Athens and Thessalonica – came originally from agricultural areas. They moved with their families to the cities

Greek writer Aglaia Kremezi explores the ancient traditions that have shaped food culture in Greece.

during the last 50 years, bringing with them the cooking and culinary habits of their mothers and grandmothers. Most have kept their ancestors’ village homes and visit them on long weekends, summer holidays and at Christmas and Easter. Many have also kept much of their land, so it is common for Greek families to produce the olive oil they consume – about 40 pounds per person a year! And when they don’t produce it themselves, they buy it from friends who have surplus.

This reflects Greek society’s largely agricultural past. With the recent economic crisis and high unemployment there seems to be a trend for young people to leave Athens and go back to their ancestral villages to try to live off the land.

Religious influencesIn its long history, Greece has been subjected to many culinary influences. The Venetians and Genoese – who ruled most of the country during the Middle Ages – and later the Ottoman Turks, who made Greece part of their empire and remained the rulers of northern Greece and Crete up until the early 1900s, have all left their marks on Greek cooking.

But by far the most important element that has shaped people’s eating habits was the rules of the Greek Orthodox Church. Even non-religious Greeks often abstain from foods deriving from animals – meat, dairy products, and eggs – during the fast days that precede Easter, Christmas, and other religious occasions. It is notable that even McDonald’s in Greece offer special menus during those days.

Easter, Greece’s most important feast, seems to have its roots in the pagan agricultural spring festivals of antiquity. Celebrated in the open country, amidst fragrant herbs and multicoloured flowers, the Easter table features locally raised, tiny

Seasons matter

GLOBAL FOOD.indd 34 7/3/12 11:00:27

Global foodie


In the mountainous and rocky Greek countryside, it is not possible to pasture large herds and provide meat for everybody. Thus, until recently Greeks have

been mainly vegetarian, not by choice but by necessity.

Since ancient times right up until the late 1960s, meat was a rare, festive dish consumed on Sundays, at Easter and Christmas, and during important family feasts. The traditional diet is, in fact, based on regional, seasonal produce; garden vegetables and leafy greens called horta, which are either foraged from the hills and fields in the winter and early spring, or cultivated, various kinds of dandelion and chicory, mustard greens – both sweet and bitter – and of course chard, spinach and in the summer vlita (amaranth shoots).

People following the new trend of foraged greens can learn a lot from the Greeks. Besides greens, seasonal vegetables are the basic element used in dishes served every day at Greek tables. These often go hand in hand with pulses, beans of all kinds, chickpeas, lentils and grains, mainly in the form of bread, vegetables and greens enriched with fruity olive oil and complemented with olives, local cheeses, yogurt, occasionally fresh or cured fish, and small amounts of meat.

It is a sensible fare followed for hundreds of years by previous generations not because they chose to eat healthily, but because they had to make do with whatever was available.

Cooking stylesThe female cooks all over Greece invented a myriad of ways to make up horta (leafy greens) or squash in the winter, and zucchini later in the spring, for example.

For months, these were the only vegetables they could get and they

devised many different dishes for them; greens or zucchini are braised with onion or garlic with the addition of bulgur, rice, or potatoes to make a main course that is often accompanied by feta or some other cheese. Larger leafy greens can be rolled around a stuffing of rice and herbs, while zucchini and squash are hollowed and filled with a similar stuffing.

Seasonal vegetables are braised with lamb, pork or veal for more festive Sunday meals, along with wild greens or curly endive, the outer leaves of lettuce, celery or artichokes braised with meat and often served with creamy avgolemono (egg and lemon sauce).

There is a plethora of pites (thin filo-wrapped pies) that can contain every kind of vegetable, herb and green, together with cheese or leftover meat and herbs. Pites, to me, epitomise the home-cook’s ingenuity; small scraps of anything, often just a few garden herbs together with cheese and eggs, are transformed into wonderful crunchy delicacies, enclosed in filo crust that home cooks roll with the dexterity of a ballet dancer, from a dough of just flour, water and olive oil.

Hortopita (greens pie), also called spanakopita (spinach pie), is probably the most common example, although the one you are likely to find in Greek restaurants bears little resemblance to the real thing.

After the mid1960s, as the country became more affluent, meat gradually began to play a significant role in people’s everyday diet.

Around that time, the Greek demographic structure changed. At least four out of 10 middle-aged Greeks who, in the early 21st century lived in the big cities – Athens and Thessalonica – came originally from agricultural areas. They moved with their families to the cities

Greek writer Aglaia Kremezi explores the ancient traditions that have shaped food culture in Greece.

during the last 50 years, bringing with them the cooking and culinary habits of their mothers and grandmothers. Most have kept their ancestors’ village homes and visit them on long weekends, summer holidays and at Christmas and Easter. Many have also kept much of their land, so it is common for Greek families to produce the olive oil they consume – about 40 pounds per person a year! And when they don’t produce it themselves, they buy it from friends who have surplus.

This reflects Greek society’s largely agricultural past. With the recent economic crisis and high unemployment there seems to be a trend for young people to leave Athens and go back to their ancestral villages to try to live off the land.

Religious influencesIn its long history, Greece has been subjected to many culinary influences. The Venetians and Genoese – who ruled most of the country during the Middle Ages – and later the Ottoman Turks, who made Greece part of their empire and remained the rulers of northern Greece and Crete up until the early 1900s, have all left their marks on Greek cooking.

But by far the most important element that has shaped people’s eating habits was the rules of the Greek Orthodox Church. Even non-religious Greeks often abstain from foods deriving from animals – meat, dairy products, and eggs – during the fast days that precede Easter, Christmas, and other religious occasions. It is notable that even McDonald’s in Greece offer special menus during those days.

Easter, Greece’s most important feast, seems to have its roots in the pagan agricultural spring festivals of antiquity. Celebrated in the open country, amidst fragrant herbs and multicoloured flowers, the Easter table features locally raised, tiny

Seasons matter



cup of coffee and a cookie. Wine accompanies the meals, especially dinner, and a salad of fresh, raw or blanched seasonal vegetables or greens is always part of the everyday table. Seasonal fruits are the most common dessert. Sweets were originally part of the festive table but now tend to be eaten at all times of the day, while meat has become an almost everyday staple.

But generally, the most important characteristic of Greek food is that it follows the seasons.

In the homes, cooks don’t make yemista (stuffed tomatoes and peppers) or melitzanosalata (eggplant spread) in the winter, although these vegetables are now available all year round. The frugal Greek cooks have learned to combine simple produce to create dishes that dietitians now use as models for the famed healthy Mediterranean diet.

The irony is that modern Greeks have enthusiastically left behind this traditional fare, adopting the unhealthy eating habits of the wealthy northern Europeans and Americans in their quest to forget their hard poverty-stricken village past. FF

succulent spit-roasted lamb or kid. The traditional Easter sweets are made with myzithra, a generic name for the various regional creamy fresh sheep or goat milk cheeses of the season.

Many dishes are still closely related to religious holidays, although pizza and hamburgers, as well as gyro and the ubiquitous Greek salad, tend to banalise modern Greek food. Magiritsa, a delicious soup made from chopped lamb’s innards, scallions, and dill, finished with tart egg and lemon sauce, is only eaten on Good Saturday after the midnight Resurrection Mass. Pork is associated with the Christmas and New Year’s table, as pig slaughtering and curing is done in the heart of the winter. Fish is consumed on March 25, Annunciation Day, and always at the solemn meals that follow the funerals. With its many islands, Greece has probably as many boats per capita as cars. Nevertheless, fish and seafood has never been plentiful enough to become an everyday food, not even for people who live by the sea. The fish and seafood of the Aegean is exceptionally delicious but

scarce, and the best fish islanders manage to catch is sold to the big cities.

Modern cultureGreece has no restaurant tradition and the best magirefta (cooked dishes) are only savoured in the homes.

Traditionally, there are two kinds of restaurants that attract the Greeks when they want to entertain their families and friends. One is hasapotaverna (butcher’s tavern) that offers charcoal grilled meat (baby lamb, kid, pork, veal and occasionally chicken) by weight. Here, meat-lovers have a feast at reasonable prices.

Tourists are probably more familiar with psarotaverna (fish tavern), the other kind of traditional Greek restaurant, as these are scattered all over the shoreline, on the islands and the mainland. Fresh fish and seafood, the catch of the day, is grilled or fried according to the customer’s choice. Both meat and fish taverns offer a few appetisers and seasonal salads.

People eat lunch around 2pm and dinner around 9pm, and in the summer around 10pm or even later. Breakfast is usually just a


Recipes

A much sought-after appetiser served at Greek taverns today. In the old days it was considered a poor man’s keftedes (meatballs) for the people who could not afford to buy meat. You can find similar fritters with all kinds of vegetables and greens (see note). The mixture needs to be fairly dry, so squeeze as much liquid out of the grated zucchini as you can.

Ingredients: • 4 cups grated zucchini (3-4 zucchini) or

squash (see note)• 1 cup finely chopped onion• Salt• 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley• 1 cup grated hard myzithra, kefalotyri,

Pecorino Romano, or Parmesan cheese

• ½-1 cup toasted wholewheat breadcrumbs

• 1 large egg• ½ cup chopped basil leaves• 1tbsp Greek dried oregano• Salt and freshly ground black pepper• Olive oil and safflower oil, for frying• 1 cup thick Greek yogurt (optional)

Method: • Toss the zucchini and onion with 1½ tsp salt and let them drain in a colander for at least one hour. Squeeze handfuls of the mixture to extract as much water as possible.• In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, parsley, cheese, ½ cup breadcrumbs, egg, basil, oregano, and pepper to taste.• In a large, deep skillet, heat oil over

medium-high heat to 350°F.• Make a test fritter; stir the zucchini mixture and, using a spoon, scoop a heaped tablespoon (about the size of a golf ball). Fry in the hot oil, turning once, until browned, about three minutes. If too wet, adjust the texture with more breadcrumbs, as needed. Also, correct the seasonings, adding more salt and pepper as necessary. Fry the rest of the fritters, in batches, and transfer to paper towels to drain.• Serve them hot or warm, accompanied with thick Greek yogurt, if you like. Also good at room temperature.Note: Instead of zucchini, you could make horto-keftedes, fritters with blanched, drained and chopped mixed greens (spinach, chard, rocket etc.).

Kolokytho-keftedes (zucchini fritters with basil and oregano)Makes 6 to 8 meze servings

Global foodie


Continued on page 38


Recipes

A much sought-after appetiser served at Greek taverns today. In the old days it was considered a poor man’s keftedes (meatballs) for the people who could not afford to buy meat. You can find similar fritters with all kinds of vegetables and greens (see note). The mixture needs to be fairly dry, so squeeze as much liquid out of the grated zucchini as you can.

Ingredients: • 4 cups grated zucchini (3-4 zucchini) or

squash (see note)• 1 cup finely chopped onion• Salt• 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley• 1 cup grated hard myzithra, kefalotyri,

Pecorino Romano, or Parmesan cheese

• ½-1 cup toasted wholewheat breadcrumbs

• 1 large egg• ½ cup chopped basil leaves• 1tbsp Greek dried oregano• Salt and freshly ground black pepper• Olive oil and safflower oil, for frying• 1 cup thick Greek yogurt (optional)

Method: • Toss the zucchini and onion with 1½ tsp salt and let them drain in a colander for at least one hour. Squeeze handfuls of the mixture to extract as much water as possible.• In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, parsley, cheese, ½ cup breadcrumbs, egg, basil, oregano, and pepper to taste.• In a large, deep skillet, heat oil over

medium-high heat to 350°F.• Make a test fritter; stir the zucchini mixture and, using a spoon, scoop a heaped tablespoon (about the size of a golf ball). Fry in the hot oil, turning once, until browned, about three minutes. If too wet, adjust the texture with more breadcrumbs, as needed. Also, correct the seasonings, adding more salt and pepper as necessary. Fry the rest of the fritters, in batches, and transfer to paper towels to drain.• Serve them hot or warm, accompanied with thick Greek yogurt, if you like. Also good at room temperature.Note: Instead of zucchini, you could make horto-keftedes, fritters with blanched, drained and chopped mixed greens (spinach, chard, rocket etc.).

Kolokytho-keftedes (zucchini fritters with basil and oregano)Makes 6 to 8 meze servings

Global foodie


Continued on page 38

GLOBAL FOOD.indd 36 7/3/12 11:01:23 Pg37 - ADS.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:45

Global foodie


This is the most elegant version of meat with vegetables. Depending on the season the dish can be made with celeriac or mixed greens (in the winter) or with zucchini or even green beans in the summer.

Ingredients: • ½ cup olive oil • 1½ pounds boneless veal shank (or pork

loin) cut into 2-inch cubes• 2½ cups coarsely chopped scallions,

white plus most of the green part• Salt • Ground black or white pepper, to taste• 1 cup white wine• 1½ cups chicken or beef stock• 8 medium artichokes, peeled and halved

(see note)• 4tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice• 1½ cups chopped fresh dill

Egg and lemon sauce (avgolemono)Ingredients: • 2 large eggs• 1tsp corn starch• 5tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, or

more to taste• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, or a

good pinch Aleppo or Maras pepper, to taste

Method: • In a large, deep skillet or a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat and sauté the meat in batches, turning often, until golden on all sides. Add the onions, salt and sauté for two to three minutes more, or until they are soft. Add the wine and as it boils, pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. • Add the artichokes and a little water if needed – the liquid should almost cover the meat and artichokes. Place an inverted heatproof plate over the meat and artichokes to keep them submerged. Cook uncovered for 15-20 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender and the meat is fully

Kreas me Aginares Avgolemono(Braised veal with artichokes in egg and lemon sauce) Serves 4

cooked. With a slotted spoon transfer the meat and artichokes to a platter. If the sauce is too thin increase the heat to high and boil for three to four minutes to reduce. You should have about 2-2½ cups broth.

To make the Avgolemono sauce: • In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and two tablespoons of water. Dilute the corn starch in the lemon juice and add to the egg mixture. Whisking constantly, pour slowly with a ladle about half the boiling sauce from the pan into the eggs. Slowly return the egg mixture back to the pot with the cooking liquid, whisking constantly, to prevent the eggs from curdling. • As the sauce thickens, add the meat and artichokes to the pan, taste and adjust the seasonings with lemon juice, salt and/or pepper or pepper flakes. Add the rest of

the dill, reserving a tablespoon for serving, and simmer for two minutes more to warm through. Serve sprinkling with dill and pepper flakes, if you like.

Note: To prepare the artichokes, fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze the juice of two lemons into it (reserve the lemon halves). Snap off several layers of leaves from each artichoke, pulling them downward to break them off at the base. Rub the cut parts often with the lemon halves as you work, to prevent discoloration. Cut off the top of each artichoke and trim the broken parts of leaves around the stem with a sharp knife, again rubbing the cut surfaces with lemon. Halve the artichokes and remove the centre chokes with a knife or grapefruit spoon; drop each prepared artichoke into the bowl of lemon water. Drain just before adding to the pan.


Global foodie


This is the most elegant version of meat with vegetables. Depending on the season the dish can be made with celeriac or mixed greens (in the winter) or with zucchini or even green beans in the summer.

Ingredients: • ½ cup olive oil • 1½ pounds boneless veal shank (or pork

loin) cut into 2-inch cubes• 2½ cups coarsely chopped scallions,

white plus most of the green part• Salt • Ground black or white pepper, to taste• 1 cup white wine• 1½ cups chicken or beef stock• 8 medium artichokes, peeled and halved

(see note)• 4tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice• 1½ cups chopped fresh dill

Egg and lemon sauce (avgolemono)Ingredients: • 2 large eggs• 1tsp corn starch• 5tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, or

more to taste• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, or a

good pinch Aleppo or Maras pepper, to taste

Method: • In a large, deep skillet or a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat and sauté the meat in batches, turning often, until golden on all sides. Add the onions, salt and sauté for two to three minutes more, or until they are soft. Add the wine and as it boils, pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. • Add the artichokes and a little water if needed – the liquid should almost cover the meat and artichokes. Place an inverted heatproof plate over the meat and artichokes to keep them submerged. Cook uncovered for 15-20 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender and the meat is fully

Kreas me Aginares Avgolemono(Braised veal with artichokes in egg and lemon sauce) Serves 4

cooked. With a slotted spoon transfer the meat and artichokes to a platter. If the sauce is too thin increase the heat to high and boil for three to four minutes to reduce. You should have about 2-2½ cups broth.

To make the Avgolemono sauce: • In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and two tablespoons of water. Dilute the corn starch in the lemon juice and add to the egg mixture. Whisking constantly, pour slowly with a ladle about half the boiling sauce from the pan into the eggs. Slowly return the egg mixture back to the pot with the cooking liquid, whisking constantly, to prevent the eggs from curdling. • As the sauce thickens, add the meat and artichokes to the pan, taste and adjust the seasonings with lemon juice, salt and/or pepper or pepper flakes. Add the rest of

the dill, reserving a tablespoon for serving, and simmer for two minutes more to warm through. Serve sprinkling with dill and pepper flakes, if you like.

Note: To prepare the artichokes, fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze the juice of two lemons into it (reserve the lemon halves). Snap off several layers of leaves from each artichoke, pulling them downward to break them off at the base. Rub the cut parts often with the lemon halves as you work, to prevent discoloration. Cut off the top of each artichoke and trim the broken parts of leaves around the stem with a sharp knife, again rubbing the cut surfaces with lemon. Halve the artichokes and remove the centre chokes with a knife or grapefruit spoon; drop each prepared artichoke into the bowl of lemon water. Drain just before adding to the pan.

GLOBAL FOOD.indd 38 7/3/12 11:01:49 pg39 - Yorkshire Provender FPC.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:45

Drink upDrinks update


Botanical Brewers rockThe record label that issued Lady Gaga’s first albums has teamed up with British botanical brewer Fentimans for a new drink.

Fentimans is famous for its drinks and is now working with Cherrytree Records to create the Fentimans Cherrytree Cola, which will be available on its forthcoming European tour. The Cherrytree Cola bottle has been used in promotional material for the bands included in the Cherrytree Records sell-out 2012 European tour, including Ellie Goulding and The Far East Movement.

Cherrytree Records launched in 2005, and Lady Gaga’s multi-platinum The Fame and The Fame Monster albums were issued by Cherrytree Records.

DRINk IN Sloe motIoNA family business from North Yorkshire is spreading its love of the British-grown sloe.

SLOEmotion, based in the Howardian Hills, makes a range of, award-winning sloe-based liqueurs, chocolates and chutneys using sloes that grow in the local hedgerows, supporting local farmers as they go.

The company is run by Jonathan Curtoys and his wife Claire, who established the business with their North Yorkshire farming neighbours in 2002. It came about because nearby Manor Farm was returning tracts of agricultural land to wildlife conservation. This meant planting protective grass and wildflower borders along hedgerows, and ceasing regular cutting of hedges to allow fruit to develop. Before long, large amounts of sloes began to fruit on the blackthorn bushes.

Today, the product range includes sloe gin, whisky, vodka, damson gin, and cherry brandy. The SLOE Gin product is made in the traditional way, with the fruit steeped in gin and sugar and left to mature. The high concentration of fruit to gin results in a sweet

and fruity liqueur, with a dry finish from the gin.

Jonathan added: “Though drunk neat it certainly warms you on a winter’s day, I love mixing it with ginger beer, crushed ice and a twist of lime for a fabulous ‘pink ginger’ during the summer months.”

The nation’s favourite drinking chocolate has been crowned.

Mortimer Chocolate Company’s Pure Dark West African Chocolate Powder was named Britain’s best drinking chocolate.

Judges casting their votes at The Chocolate Festival, on London’s

South Bank, described it as “a delicious hot drinking chocolate and so much more”. The producer’s West African chocolate delighted with its soothing mellowness and sultana and raisin top notes. The pure dark powder is made with 100 per cent chocolate containing 70 per cent cocoa solids.

Thrilled founder, Adrian Smith, said: “It’s a great honour and amazing recognition of all our hard work. We’re a small family business, making our own chocolate here in the UK, using high quality cocoa mass from different origins to make delicious chocolate drinks. We have a unique secret process to make the chocolate into a powder so that it dissolves easily and none of the fantastic flavour is lost. We are so encouraged by all the positive feedback we have been receiving from consumers.”

ChOCOlatE DElIght

drinks.indd 40 7/3/12 11:03:29

Drink upDrinks update


Botanical Brewers rockThe record label that issued Lady Gaga’s first albums has teamed up with British botanical brewer Fentimans for a new drink.

Fentimans is famous for its drinks and is now working with Cherrytree Records to create the Fentimans Cherrytree Cola, which will be available on its forthcoming European tour. The Cherrytree Cola bottle has been used in promotional material for the bands included in the Cherrytree Records sell-out 2012 European tour, including Ellie Goulding and The Far East Movement.

Cherrytree Records launched in 2005, and Lady Gaga’s multi-platinum The Fame and The Fame Monster albums were issued by Cherrytree Records.

DRINk IN Sloe motIoNA family business from North Yorkshire is spreading its love of the British-grown sloe.

SLOEmotion, based in the Howardian Hills, makes a range of, award-winning sloe-based liqueurs, chocolates and chutneys using sloes that grow in the local hedgerows, supporting local farmers as they go.

The company is run by Jonathan Curtoys and his wife Claire, who established the business with their North Yorkshire farming neighbours in 2002. It came about because nearby Manor Farm was returning tracts of agricultural land to wildlife conservation. This meant planting protective grass and wildflower borders along hedgerows, and ceasing regular cutting of hedges to allow fruit to develop. Before long, large amounts of sloes began to fruit on the blackthorn bushes.

Today, the product range includes sloe gin, whisky, vodka, damson gin, and cherry brandy. The SLOE Gin product is made in the traditional way, with the fruit steeped in gin and sugar and left to mature. The high concentration of fruit to gin results in a sweet

and fruity liqueur, with a dry finish from the gin.

Jonathan added: “Though drunk neat it certainly warms you on a winter’s day, I love mixing it with ginger beer, crushed ice and a twist of lime for a fabulous ‘pink ginger’ during the summer months.”

The nation’s favourite drinking chocolate has been crowned.

Mortimer Chocolate Company’s Pure Dark West African Chocolate Powder was named Britain’s best drinking chocolate.

Judges casting their votes at The Chocolate Festival, on London’s

South Bank, described it as “a delicious hot drinking chocolate and so much more”. The producer’s West African chocolate delighted with its soothing mellowness and sultana and raisin top notes. The pure dark powder is made with 100 per cent chocolate containing 70 per cent cocoa solids.

Thrilled founder, Adrian Smith, said: “It’s a great honour and amazing recognition of all our hard work. We’re a small family business, making our own chocolate here in the UK, using high quality cocoa mass from different origins to make delicious chocolate drinks. We have a unique secret process to make the chocolate into a powder so that it dissolves easily and none of the fantastic flavour is lost. We are so encouraged by all the positive feedback we have been receiving from consumers.”

ChOCOlatE DElIght

drinks.indd 40 7/3/12 11:03:29


The drink of love?Known as the oldest alcoholic drink in the world, Traditional Mead has arrived at a UK deli.

Liquid deli Demijohn now stocks the rich, sweet drink, which was traditionally consumed at weddings and was believed to be the source of the word ‘honeymoon’.

Made in Somerset from honey and water, it is perfect warmed as a mulled drink in winter, or if the weather’s warm serve it chilled from the fridge on the rocks.

CheRRy Good CoCktaIlIndulge yourself with this sumptuous cocktail from the people at Cherrygood.

the Cherrygood ‘Red Carpet’ cocktail recipe, from the cherry juice specialists, contains a handful of plump raspberries, fresh lemon juice, Cherrygood and a splash of vodka and was commissioned by elton John for his famous Grey Goose Winter Ball in honour of the legendary shoe designer, Christian louboutin.

Ingredients: • Handful of fresh French raspberries• 15ml fresh lemon juice• Splash of Himalayan goji berry liquour• Teaspoon freshly grated ginger• 70ml measure of Cherrygood• 35ml measure of Grey Goose Le Citron• Crushed ice

Method:Combine all the ingredients. Don’t shake the cocktail mixer – the ice will dilute it. Finish with a sprinkle of pepper and garnish with a cherry.

Belvoir Fruit Farms has announced the creation of five traditional British classics with a modern twist.

Belvoir, famed for being the maker of the ‘original’ elderflower cordial, is tying in the new drinks with the many British events taking place this year, including the London Olympics and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.

Like all Belvoir products, the new additions are made using the freshest ingredients with no artificial flavours, sweeteners, colours or preservatives and while sensational on their own, also make

great mixers or cocktail ingredients too. Flavours include Belvoir Lemonade with a hint of orange blossom to give an extra zing, Belvoir Raspberry & Lemon Cordial, and Belvoir Ginger Beer.

Belvoir boss, Pev Manners, said: “2012 is an exciting year for the country, despite all the economic doom and gloom. We are very excited by the five new products – we’re confident that while being quite traditional, classic British flavours they offer the consumer a modern twist that makes them truly delicious and will prove to be real winners!”

TraDITIONal TwIST

drinks.indd 41 7/3/12 11:03:51


Fine Foodie hero

Go into a pub 15 years ago and your choice of soft drink was

pretty limited to lemonade, cola, and perhaps a lime and soda.

And so Gabriel David hit upon something when he created Luscombe Organic Drinks, making hand-made, high quality and really rather tasty soft beverages. Whether it’s the sharp kick of the Raspberry Lemonade, the refreshing Elderflower, or the warming Hot Ginger Beer, there’s nothing processed about these drinks.

Today, Luscombe drinks are all certified organic, except for the Elderflower variety as they use wild elderflowers, which means they cannot be called organic. In addition to being organic, Luscombe drinks are made from quality fresh ingredients, without concentrates, additives, preservatives, colourants, flavourings, acidity regulators, artificial sweeteners, animal by-products, GMOs and all those other nasties found in many conventional drinks.

All Luscombe products are made in Devon, within the historic setting of the Domesday farm. All hand-made in batches, they may

often come with sediment, evidence of their authentic, under-processed nature.

“We were never going to compete on price, it had to be about quality,” Gabriel explained. “We started out doing it the right way, with the best ingredients, so we didn’t have to add in these chemicals. I set out to prove myself on quality, not price.”

Founding Luscombe was not Gabriel’s first experience of drinks manufacture. Hailing from a farming family, cider making was commonplace.

“On every farm in Devon, cider was made, and we were no exception, but over time these cider farms whittled away,” he explained. “Around 1997 we were looking to wind up the cider making.”

And it was at this time that Gabriel felt there was a gap in the drinks market he could tap into.

“I was not really into alcohol – even as a teenager living in the countryside, you can’t get anywhere without driving so I was never a drinker because I had to drive everywhere to do anything. And I saw that decent soft drinks were frustratingly unavailable.”

And so he put his earlier experiences to good use, drawing on food influences he had picked up during times spent abroad to create the drink recipes.

“I have been brought up with food, and I had cultural diversity having lived in countries where there is much more interest in food,” he

explained, adding: “I had spent about 10 years living in Sicily and that’s where I fell in love with lemons and vanilla, and that formed the base of my drinks, and then I build around those flavours.”

At the time of the company launching, there were few others making similar premium drinks, and Luscombe was actually the first to introduce organic lemonade to the UK.

He said: “I had no idea it would be so popular but I think we launched at the right time. We didn’t make the wave, but we caught it and went with it. And long may it go on, people wanting quality soft drinks.”

Quality, rather than price, remains Luscombe’s ethos, and Gabriel says they will not create a new drink on the back of a fad. Instead, he would rather hone what they already do.

“Even now we continue to work on the recipes to ensure we are always offering the best quality,” he says. “We want to be able to make the best drinks people want to drink and we continue to evolve our recipes. Rather than spending a lot of time of new products we stick to what we know and how to make it better.”

The quality aspect also goes into where you can buy the products. For one, you will not find them in the supermarkets.

“Our products are not mass market and you won’t get the quality in volume in supermarkets. There, it becomes about bottom line rather than quality,” Gabriel explained, adding: “If you grow too quickly you can end up losing what your reason was in the first place.” FF

Gabriel DavidFine Foodies celebrates those making great food and drinks. We talk to Gabriel David of Luscombe Organic Drinks.

foodie hero.indd 42 7/3/12 11:05:22


Fine Foodie hero

Go into a pub 15 years ago and your choice of soft drink was

pretty limited to lemonade, cola, and perhaps a lime and soda.

And so Gabriel David hit upon something when he created Luscombe Organic Drinks, making hand-made, high quality and really rather tasty soft beverages. Whether it’s the sharp kick of the Raspberry Lemonade, the refreshing Elderflower, or the warming Hot Ginger Beer, there’s nothing processed about these drinks.

Today, Luscombe drinks are all certified organic, except for the Elderflower variety as they use wild elderflowers, which means they cannot be called organic. In addition to being organic, Luscombe drinks are made from quality fresh ingredients, without concentrates, additives, preservatives, colourants, flavourings, acidity regulators, artificial sweeteners, animal by-products, GMOs and all those other nasties found in many conventional drinks.

All Luscombe products are made in Devon, within the historic setting of the Domesday farm. All hand-made in batches, they may

often come with sediment, evidence of their authentic, under-processed nature.

“We were never going to compete on price, it had to be about quality,” Gabriel explained. “We started out doing it the right way, with the best ingredients, so we didn’t have to add in these chemicals. I set out to prove myself on quality, not price.”

Founding Luscombe was not Gabriel’s first experience of drinks manufacture. Hailing from a farming family, cider making was commonplace.

“On every farm in Devon, cider was made, and we were no exception, but over time these cider farms whittled away,” he explained. “Around 1997 we were looking to wind up the cider making.”

And it was at this time that Gabriel felt there was a gap in the drinks market he could tap into.

“I was not really into alcohol – even as a teenager living in the countryside, you can’t get anywhere without driving so I was never a drinker because I had to drive everywhere to do anything. And I saw that decent soft drinks were frustratingly unavailable.”

And so he put his earlier experiences to good use, drawing on food influences he had picked up during times spent abroad to create the drink recipes.

“I have been brought up with food, and I had cultural diversity having lived in countries where there is much more interest in food,” he

explained, adding: “I had spent about 10 years living in Sicily and that’s where I fell in love with lemons and vanilla, and that formed the base of my drinks, and then I build around those flavours.”

At the time of the company launching, there were few others making similar premium drinks, and Luscombe was actually the first to introduce organic lemonade to the UK.

He said: “I had no idea it would be so popular but I think we launched at the right time. We didn’t make the wave, but we caught it and went with it. And long may it go on, people wanting quality soft drinks.”

Quality, rather than price, remains Luscombe’s ethos, and Gabriel says they will not create a new drink on the back of a fad. Instead, he would rather hone what they already do.

“Even now we continue to work on the recipes to ensure we are always offering the best quality,” he says. “We want to be able to make the best drinks people want to drink and we continue to evolve our recipes. Rather than spending a lot of time of new products we stick to what we know and how to make it better.”

The quality aspect also goes into where you can buy the products. For one, you will not find them in the supermarkets.

“Our products are not mass market and you won’t get the quality in volume in supermarkets. There, it becomes about bottom line rather than quality,” Gabriel explained, adding: “If you grow too quickly you can end up losing what your reason was in the first place.” FF

Gabriel DavidFine Foodies celebrates those making great food and drinks. We talk to Gabriel David of Luscombe Organic Drinks.

foodie hero.indd 42 7/3/12 11:05:22 pg43 - Petty Wood FPC.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:45

pg44 - Valt Vodka FPC.indd 1 14/03/2012 08:46