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IMPROVING HIT RATE AND ON TIME DELIVERY OF SAMPLES AND DEVELOPING A SYSTEM TO MEASURE THE PERFORMANCE OF SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT

Under guidance ofMr. Abdul Salam Sait

Prepared byAnoop singh (08) AP VIII 08-12

Table of contentList of tables 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Statement of study 1.3 Objectives 2. Literature review 3. Methodology 3.1 Timeline 3.2 DMAIC Approach 4. PHASE-I: Define 4.1 Definition of Hit rate 4.2 Critical to Quality (CTQ) trees 4.3 SIPOC Bibliography 3 4 5 5 6 15 16 17 18 18 19 23 24

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List of figuresFigure 1. workflow of sampling.............................................................................11 Figure 2 Timeline..................................................................................................17 Figure 3 DMAIC approach to project methedology................................................18 Figure 4 CTQ tree1...............................................................................................20 Figure 5. CTQ tree for hit rate of samples.............................................................21 Figure 6 CTQ tree for factory's capability..............................................................22 Figure 7 TQ tree for meeting buyer's requirement................................................22 Figure 8 CTQ tree for rawmaterial.........................................................................23 Figure 9 CTQ for construction...............................................................................24 Figure 10 CTQ tree for value addition...................................................................24 Figure 11 CTQ tree for quality...............................................................................25 Figure 12 SPIOC diagram......................................................................................26

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1.Introduction:In recent decades, fashion retailers, such as Benetton, H&M, Topshop, and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry by following what has become known as the fast fashion strategy, in which retailers respond to shifts in the market within just a few weeks, versus an industry average of six months. Specically, fast fashion is a concept developed in Europe to serve markets for teenage and young adult women who desire trendy, short-cycle, and relatively inexpensive clothing, and who are willing to buy from small retail shops and boutiques. Fast fashion chains have grown quicker than the industry as a whole and have seized market share from traditional rivals, since they aim to obtain fabrics, to manufacture samples, and to start shipping products with far shorter lead times than those of the traditional production calendar. (Nagurney & Yu, 2010) With rapid turnaround time the order of the day, it is essential that every link in the supply chain be tightened to the maximum possible. The sample development process in manufacturing takes typically around 50% of the total lead time, which could be minimized in order to reduce lead time of complete manufacturing. Though there is no existing method to measure the efficiency or performance of a factory in sample making and hence improvement in the process could not be controlled for long time. The Hit rate of a sample refers to success of a sample. A successful sample is one which went on-time and was approved first time. However it does not necessarily mean that a successful sample may fetch an order. Since a buyer comparatively evaluates samples from a number of manufacturers, a successful sample may not fetch an order for reasons beyond the manufacturers control. However manufacturers can minimize the risk of their sample being rejected by controlling the factors which are in their control, by streamlining the sampling process and making sure the standard practise is being followed, the manufacturer can make sure that their samples are of utmost quality, are not delayed and meet the requirements of the buyer. This project aims at determining the factors to minimize rejection of samples which are under the manufacturers control.

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1.2 Statement of study To improve hit rate of samples by maximizing on time delivery and first time approval of samples. To develop a system to measure the performance of the sample development process.

1.3 Objectives Analyzing the current sample development procedures. Identifying buyers method of measuring. Identifying reasons for samples not getting approved first time and eliminating the reasons. Exploring problems leading to late sample deliveries and developing new methods to increase on time delivery of samples. To find the performance indicators for the sample development procedures and based on that develop a performance measurement system.

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2.LITERATURE REVIEW

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Review of literature:2.1 Sampling in fashion industryThe process in which social, economic and environmental needs are identified and becomes fashion concepts which are developed into product samples as the trial types. Innovation and creativity are necessary for any business to move forward and take advantage of prevailing market conditions. The increasing use of computer aided design and manufacturing has helped all types of apparel businesses to speed up the process of sample development and to do this more cost effectively. Big may be better in manufacturing but the garment industry is dominated by numerous small to medium sized businesses and sample development is vital to the survival and success of textile business whatever its size or type of production. Larger organizations may have departments devoted to the research and development of products or sampling departments who are constantly producing new samples and ranges. Sampling is the phase of development of fashion assessing the capacity and capability of any manufacturing unit for bulk production of the same. Sampling also intend to ensure the aesthetic appeal or concept or theme that was expected in garment is achieved or not, also helps to incorporate any design or style changes if required to achieve accurate trend forecasted by trend analysts. Sample development is one of the main processes in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples. The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organisation only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge. Hit Rate is number of sales realized as a percentage of the number of sales calls (visits) or enquiries received.

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The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style no. Size

The merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also as the samples are to be made according to the buyers price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably. (Sampling in apparels manufacturing)

2.2 IMPORTANCE OF SAMPLING

Sampling is the best way to place an order. Though it is a difficult and time ending process it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing and manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kinds of bottle necks. The samples, decide the ability of an exporter. The buyers will assess the exporter and his organization only by the samples .If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order, So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality.8|Page

2.3 PERSONS INVOLVED IN SAMPLING Development team Designers/Sample developers, Customers/Clients, Textile technologists Garment technologists Packing & Dispatch, Sourcing &Purchasing, Costing & Finance, Sales & Marketing, Production team, Planning Control &,Testing Quality control

2.4 TYPES OF SAMPLES

Salesmen samples or promotional samples Proto samples fit samples Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples Wash test samples Photo samples9|Page

Fashion show samples Pre-production samples Top of production samples Shipment samples

2.5 SAMPLING PROCESS The process of sample department varies from context to context, and the development process covers a wide range of diverse products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns, fabric structures ,finishes and surface effects and all types of made up products such as knitwear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and medical products. There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the customer and full review/risk analysis by the development and production teams. The second phase covers the process following acceptance of the first prototype sample and includes the functions of sourcing and ordering component, testing the product and carry out trails once the finalized sample specifications has been drawn up, the third and final phase commences. The phase includes a range of activities that are carried out before large scale or bulk production capacity outside the home producer/developers wherever this is applicable. (Karthikeyan, 2008)

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Figure 1. workflow of sampling

2.6 ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN FULFILLING THE SAMPLING: In preparing sample the merchandiser places an optimal and pro-active role. The merchandiser is a person who has to follow all the activities which filled up sight from the manufacturing unit. Merchandiser should understand the specifications and requirement of the buyer and produce samples by considering: 1. Communication 2. Optimizing situation 3. Punctuality in giving details and samples to the buyers 4. Efficient follow up 5. Excellent negotiation skills The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the samples to be developed in case of non-conformities in the sample developed. Revised samples may be sending for approval purpose. It is the duty of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on the time to the concerned buyers. The merchandising department is very important for every garment industries and garment related buying house. Merchandiser is the pivotal person who actually merchandises the product for seller to the buyer, starting from order process to profit realization. By nature11 | P a g e

merchandising job is to co-coordinating a set of jobs, so it needs multi skills in a person. Garment merchandisers these days need to have not only solid product knowledge but also soft skills like project management, time management and negotiation to facilitate their work. Operational efficiency of the merchandising team therefore becomes a key factor in the success of an industry player in the apparel manufacturing business. Design and product development is an integral part of any apparel manufacturing. A merchandiser should be able to understand and communicate with the sample section and production people in a comfortable manner both should have a common lingo since both the merchandiser and the sample and production people work in close proximity, hence there should be a proper understanding among them. (Fashion asia pvt.ltd.) Merchandisers are serious in the success of any garment retail business. They provide the right products at the right time, enabling a company to match with latest market trends and meet the market demand. In the merchandising concept, time management is a gig to manage one's time properly, so he can focus on value adding actions.

The main procedures of merchandisers are as followed: Understanding Sample Order Merchandiser has to understand the buyer's requirements after receiving specification in the sample order. In many cases, there are modifications pertaining to the specifications in the order to dispatch on time and the right quality. He has to talk with the in-house veterans on the execution problems of sample orders, as the right information is required in decision making. Managing order route card and production timetable Merchandiser has to manage every single production schedule and order route card that helps to follow-up the execution in the planned way. It is expected to be acknowledged of the various descriptions like: design, no. of modules, no. of operators, how many processes, date of dispatch, quantity, output capacity, and deadlines in the schedules. The sub-ordinates are normally assigned to follow-up with execution of the plan. Merchandiser plans the activities depending on the essentials or non-essentials, and top priority are given to12 | P a g e

the most essential tasks. This is customary that the essential activities are handled personally or with the support of junior merchandisers/sub-ordinates. In a "daily schedule", merchandiser has to carry-out and categorize which is the most significant and urgent task. The activity that has to be focused with full attention to sweep-off non-essential activities and have to be to be corrected by prioritizing to meet the deadlines. Using route card to reschedule activities To get updated on the current status on the order, the route cards should be utilized. The latest status can be fed into the computers. In case, the buyer ask for the goods prior to the deadline, then merchandiser has to reorganize the schedules to accomplish tasks, output capacity, no. of pieces to be produced daily, substitute arrangements, time availability, supply time, scheduling critical ratio, etc. Submitting pre-production samples The pre-production samples should be provided on time to the concerned buyers. Quality of the sample must be verified. If required, revised samples should be made available to the buyers. Merchandiser should adjust to the required changes demanded by the buyer. The execution of bulk orders should be made only after samples are approved by the buyer. In-process inspection denote between any tasks in order-execution. In case of nonconformation, it is better to focus on the concerns of quality. Merchandisers that works on complete orders have to check deviation to the production teams so that any amendments can be done to avoid the non-conformities. Solving shortage problem The merchandiser should know about the dearth of any commodity such as fabric, yarn, etc... from the beginning. Actions should be taken immediately to arrange required materials, after discovering the shortage. It is expected that the merchandisers should verify quality of the goods prior to execution of the order. If the material is found unavailable, the superior should be informed about the concern. Communicating with associated people and buyer It is essential to communicate with the buyers regarding the order. It is expected to give some time to the buyer to read the sent messages. Merchandiser should to go through the messages13 | P a g e

received from the buyer and reply on time. In many cases, merchandisers have to provide order status to the buyers. Also, merchandiser has to communicate with the people that are in-house, venders, contractors and job-workers. Only through the right communication can one meet deadline (Doshi, 2006) 2.7 ADVANTAGES OF SAMPLING Gain a full understanding of the sample development process. Able to plan a development process suitable for your company needs. Able to strengthen your teams awareness and understanding of other department needs. Awareness of reducing development and company costs and improve customer service. Find ways of minimizing risk factors and maximizing quality parameters. Economic / Market Place Needs are Identified Forming First Concepts/Ideas Developing concepts into Prototype Sample Prototype Specification Written Modifying Prototype until Approved Amendments to Specification Finalized First Sample & Specification to Retailing for the concerned orders.

The production of a viable and clear design or product brief is the starting point for successful product development. The input for this may come from various sources or a combination of sources. These may include the customer or potential customer, sales/marketing staff, research and development manager and the design/sample developer. This definition indicates clearly that sample development is an essential function of the business.

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3. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY15 | P a g e

Locale- Prateek apparels pvt. ltd., Bangalore Data used- primary data collected through observations & interview methods. Secondary data (from merchandising TNA calendar of organization) Data analysis techniques- through graphs, charts and tables. Lean six sigma (LSS) methodology is been used in the project. LSS is an amalgamation of lean concepts and Six sigma approach, the lean concepts reduce wastages and hence reduce the timeline and six sigma approach improves quality of project. Benefits of using a lean six sigma approach in project methodology Provides a problem solving methodology that eliminates variance in processes A specific set of tools are used to reduce or eliminate waste in processes. The approach of LSS objectives to customers need and identify the source of variances, by CTQ trees. The six sigma approach to project methodology consists the following phases-

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3.1 TimelineW1 Define Measure Analyze Improve ControlFigure 2 Timeline

W2 W3 W4 W5 W6 W7 W8 W9 W10

W11

W12

W13

3.2 DMAIC approach :

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Figure 3 DMAIC approach to project methedology

4. PHASE-I: Define4.1 Definition of Hit Rate:

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Hit Rate refers to success of sample. Success of sample refers to Whether the sample was approved first time. Whether the sample was sent on-time.

Since certain samples are not rejected but comments are made on the samples to be incorporated in the next sample, the following definition is being followed: For development samples as proto sampleso Sample was on-time o Sample was approved first time.

For capacity and bulk production samples as TOP, SMS & fit, size-set samples o Sample was on-time.

Hit rate is a metric or measure of business performance traditionally associated with sales. Defined as:

Similarly Hit rate % = Successful samples X 100 Total samples High hit rate % indicates high performance of sampling department, whereas Low hit rate % indicates low performance of sampling department.

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4.2 Critical to Quality (CTQ) tree A CTQ Tree is a tool used in six sigma methodology to decompose broad customer requirements into more easily quantifiable requirements. CTQs (Critical to Quality) are the key measurable characteristics of a product or process whose performance standards or specification limits must be met in order to satisfy the customer. They align improvement or design efforts with customer requirements. Statistical improvement methodologies improve quality by exploiting cause-and-effect relations in the process. The effects are quality characteristics, performance indicators, Critical To Quality relations (CTQs), Y s, etc.; we shall refer to them in this paper as CTQs, which is their name in the Six Sigma programme. The causes are influence factors in the process, sources of variation, the causes of a problem, or simply the Xs. De Mast provides a framework for statistical quality improvement methodologies. (Mast & Bergman, 2006)

Figure 4 CTQ tree1

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Hit rate of sampling department depends on individual hit rates of samples in each sampling levels (CTQ represented in fig.4). Namely- Proto sample, Sales-man sample, Size-set sample, Pre-production sample, Top of Production sample, and lastly Shipment sample. 4.2.1 Hit rate of a sample:

Figure 5. CTQ tree for hit rate of samples

Now, Hit rate of samples (CTQ represented in fig.5) in each level depends onOn-time delivery of samples, which is delivering completed sample to buyer as per targeted date specified in TNA calendar. This process could be influenced by following activities

All activities prior to issuing docket sheet to sampling department must be completed on-time.

Sample requisition on-time from sampling department. Sample review on-time. Sample outward process completed on-time, like finishing, packaging, documentation and finally mailing.

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And finally receiving sample with buyers comment on-time so that proceeding for next sample by incorporating buyers comments may be started on-time.

On-time delivery of samples could be achieved with good planning and its follow-up. Producing accurate sample, that is making sample as per buyers requirement (original sample provided by buyer, tech-pack) this would further depend on two things meeting buyers requirement (CTQ represented in fig.7) i.e. interpretation of tech-pack and spec-sheet, and Factorys capacity (CTQ represented in fig.6) in producing the sample in terms of labours skills, machine availability, value additions within optimum cost quoted. 4.2.2 Factories capability-

Figure 6 CTQ tree for factory's capability

4.2.3 Meeting buyers request-

Figure 7 TQ tree for meeting buyer's requirement

Meeting buyers requirement (CTQ represented in fig.7) may be influenced by following source of variations Raw material of sample not as per requirement of buyer. Construction of sample not accurate as per buyers tech-pack or sample (specification).22 | P a g e

The value additions desired by buyer not attained in sample or may be not up to mark. The quality of sample, may not be as desired by buyer.

Source of variation in not attaining raw material as per buyer requirement (CTQ represented in fig.8) is either Due to variation in fabric standards or/and Variation in trim standards.

4.2.4 Raw material-

Figure 8 CTQ tree for rawmaterial

4.2.5 Construction-

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Figure 9 CTQ for construction

4.2.6 Value addition-

Figure 10 CTQ tree for value addition

4.2.7 Quality-

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Figure 11 CTQ tree for quality

4.3 SIPOCSIPOC stands for supplier, input, process, output, customer. It is a six sigma tool which makes clear the supplier, input, process, output and customer for the process on which project operates.

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Figure 12 SPIOC diagram

Phase-2: Measure and Analyze: To calculate Hit rate, information needed is:o

Variance of target date and actual sending date of samples

o Sample was first time approved or no.

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To determine whether sample was sent on-time or not: o Actual date that samples were sent on was collected from Visual Gems software.o

Targeted date of samples to be sent was determined from merchandising TNA calendar.

To determine if samples were approved first time:o

Data was collected from Visual Gems.

Reasons for rejection of samples were collected from sampling files.

BibliographyDoshi, G. (2006). Managing Garment Merchandising. Retrieved February 2012, from ezinearticles: http://ezinearticles.com/?Managing-GarmentMerchandising&id=371758 Fashion asia pvt.ltd. Internship report on Fashion asia ltd. Dhaka. Karthikeyan, D. G. (2008). The Need for Sampling in Garment Exports - A New Paradigm. Coimbatore: Tamilnadu College of Engineering.

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Nagurney, A., & Yu, M. (2010). Fashion Supply Chain Management Through Cost and Time Minimization. Amherst: University of Massachusetts. Sampling in apparels manufacturing. (n.d.). Retrieved february 27, 2012, from textileschool.com: http://www.textileschool.com/School/Apparel/Sampling.aspx

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