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Construction

Photoshop

Central Image - Front Cover

I began by opening the image that I wanted to edit by clicking “File” and

then choosing the option “Open”

I then unlocked the layer, I made sure that I did this as the background cannot be moved unless it is redefined as a layer, it also allows me to begin editing and making any further changes to the image without any access white background.

To begin with....

Tr i a l a n d E r r o r – D e l e t i n g t h e

B a c k g r o u n d i n o n e g o .

To delete the excess background I began by going around the main shape of the model using a tool called “Magnetic Lasso Tool”.

Once I finished I pressed delete however I found that the image deleted and not the background, I had discovered that the section that is selected is the section that is removed and not the image around it so I had to undo the damage and

start again.

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I then tried erasing the outside of the selected area however it would not

erase as only the selected area was the only bit you could do anything to which

in this case was erasing.

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I made the eraser larger to decrease the time it would take me to rub the entire background.

After I finished I was left with a dotted out line around both the outside of the background and the specific area of the image I wanted. However

F i n a l l y . . . .

I realised that if I used the “Magnetic Lasso Tool" and went around the background first and then went around the actual shape I wanted then the unwanted background would simply be removed if I pressed delete.

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after doing this and looking closely at the image I had found that some of the small areas

After deleting the background I was left with simply the selected area of the image I originally anticipated for .

Overall I found that this technique was quick however not so efficient however the extra job was not all that difficult to complete therefore I found that this technique was the “most ideal” for me as it was something I could do quite easily.

around the legs and shoes were left out, so even though the technique I used was quicker it left me with an extra job to do.

I then erased the outside of the image as for some odd reason the “Magnetic Lasso Tool” did not pick up the entire background of the image, so I then zoomed into the image in several different places and erased the left over background.

I then went around the whole image blurring the outline of the whole image using the “Blur Tool”, I did this to ensure that my image looked neater and more professional, I also did this as after blurring the image had a sort of glow like effect to it and I found that it added to the attraction and “catchiness” of the image so I chose to proceed and do this to all my images.

I also erased a lot of excess background around the hair which was the hardest as the Magnetic Lasso Tool did not pick up all of the background so I had to zoom in and erase these separately to ensure that my magazine looked professional and well edited along with the crucial fact that the hair should look realistic and natural.

However one disadvantage of using the smudge tool was that sometimes it smudged a little too much and I found that it distorted the image slightly, luckily I was able to fix this by simply undoing the damage.

The after effect of smudging the image. The after effect of smudging the image.The after effect of smudging the image.The after effect of smudging the image.The after effect of smudging the image.The after effect of smudging the image.The after effect of smudging the image.The after effect of smudging the image.


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I then adjusted the brightness and contrast of the image as I thought that it would make the image slightly more pleasing to the eye, I also did this as it made the image clearer and easier to work

with.I set the brightness to 8 and the contrast 100, I did this as it gave the model a more “oranger” skin colour and I thought that it looked as though the model had a tan, by applying this I felt that my target audiences which consists mainly of teenagers aged between 12 and 18 years

could relate to this as “having a tan” is thought to be “fashionable”.

I adjusted the image by clicking

on “Image” and clicked on

“Adjustments” seeing as though I

wanted to adjust the brightness and contrast therefore

I then did this by choosing the

option that did this.

I adjusted the brightness to

“8” and the contrast to “100” as I

wanted it bright but not to

artificial looking.

By increasing the brightness I though it would also improve the audiences feelings towards it as this is usually associated with positive emotions –

making it more appealing to my target audience.

[Process of Feathering]

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To begin my process of feathering I began by

going around the entire image using the

“Magnetic Lasso Tool” after doing this I clicked on “Select” and inversed

the image as I did not want any outside bits of

the image and I wanted it to have an even finish.

I then selected “Modify” as this was where the “Feather” option was.

After selecting this option it was simply up to me to what extent I wanted to feather the

actual image.

By feathering the image it

gives the image a more

attractive look, the image looks more appealing

and eye catching, it also adds a glow to

the image adding to the

attraction of the whole image.

[ F i n d i n g t h e c o r r e c t F e a t h e r R a d i u s ]

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When I began my process of feathering I had a very clear image in my mind of how exactly I wanted my image to look and what effect I wanted it to have on my audience and how it would adapt and work well with the concept and look behind my magazine. I wanted the image to look

realistic as well as it having a unique and eye catching look to it, something that wouldn't regularly would not be seen in a normal magazine on the market at the moment.

I began by choosing a small number to feather as I was unsure of the actual effect it would have on the image as it was a effect that I had never used before so I began with a small number which was “5” however after doing this I found that the effect was very little and it did not look very appealing nor eye catching.

After discovering that the previous number was too small and not very effective I decided to increase the number however still keeping to the small differences as I wanted to observe the effect each had, this time I decided to increase slightly and set it to “10” however like the previous time this was also too small and had very little effect on the image.

I then decided to set the image to “15” as the last two times were unsuccessful in fulfilling the look and effect I wanted from the image, however after doing so I found that the image was eye catching however I wanted it to have a slightly larger outer glow so i decided to increase the number slightly.

Finally I found the correct feather that gave my image that outstanding and effected glow I intended, I found that the effect was eye catching and different, I set the feather to “20” and I found that this worked the best out of the previous three.

[ T r i a l a n d

E r r o r ]

I then cut around the area I wanted using the “Rectangular Marquee Tool” and then decided to crop the image as the area I wanted was only small in comparison to the background so I felt if I cropped the image it would look tidier and neater.

I then saved the image as a JPEG as I was told that once I decided to transfer the image onto Adobe InDesign the image would look more professional and less “pixalated” and “fuzzy” after hearing this I made sure that once I had finished I definitely saved the image as this format as I wanted to give my magazine the most professional and clean look I possibly could.

Central Image –Double Page Spread

I began by opening the image I wanted to edit -

I then began by drawing a simple box around the area of the image I did not want, I did this using the “Rectangular Marquee Tool”, I chose not to use the whole image as I found that there was not enough focus on the face and this factor was something my teacher made sure she emphasised when she was telling us the criteria for the magazine as she highlighted on the fact that this was something that would help me gain some extra brownie points along with the fact that in real music magazines the focus of the models is compulsory as the face should be clearly visible as this is something that attracts the audience in to buying the magazine even more as it creates a sort of connection between the audience and the model as they are making eye contact and it also makes the audience feel more involved with the model as there is clear eye contact, so I wanted to cut the bottom bit of the image and then zoom in on the image and use that instead as I found that it was more visible to audiences that the model was retaining eye contact as this was a compulsory thing I wanted as it made the audiences feel as though they were on a personal level with the model in the image and they could relate to the model so I ensured that it was clear that the model retained eye contact and to do this I had to zoom in on the chosen image.

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I then created a new document, however not as a clipboard but as international paper as I wanted the size of the new

document to be A4 ready for me to place the cut out image on.

I then dragged the cut out image onto the document,

unlocked the layer and then enlarged the image

so it fit the whole A4 document.

I then applied the image so it came out a better

quality and not so “blurry" and “pixalated”.

After unlocking the layer I deleted the

white layer as I did not need it.

I then used the “Magnetic Lasso Tool” to cut around the image, I chose to use this tool instead of the “Polygonal Lasso Tool” as it was easier as it went round the image without me having to click anything.

After cutting around the whole image I then stopped and went round the outside finally finishing where I started, I did this as I wanted to remove the background not the image, after this I then deleted the excess background only leaving the image I wanted.

I then erased any excess left over background that I might have missed out earlier, I did this using the “Eraser Tool”. I made sure I did not leave any access back ground out as I did not want to make the image look unprofessional in any way .

1st I began by using the “Blur Tool" however once I began using I found that it was taking extremely long for one individual spot to become “invisible” and it also left a weird “spiral like” pattern on the area I blurred so I decided this tool was not the right tool to use and set out on a quest to find a different tool that would be more effective.

I then tried using the “Clone Stamp Tool" to remove the spots however I found that it left a weird mark after and I also found great difficulty using this tool as well as I found that sometimes to me personally it would “stop working” I found this tool extremely hard to use and I found it almost impossible to hide one spot let alone several.

After the previous technique also failing I then decided to start playing with all the tools, after a while a found a tool called “Healing Brush Tool” that I thought would maybe work, however after using it I found that it also left marks and I found that it some what distorted the image too so I decided to undo the “damage” and try a different technique.

I finally found a tool that I thought would do just the trick, above the previous tool I tried was another tool called “Spot Healing Brush Tool”, I decided to try this tool as all my previous techniques were a fail I thought to myself what else have I got to loose, however much to my dismay I found that this tool worked incredibly well as it removed the spots very well and only left a slight mark however I could then remove this after using the “Blur Tool” however other than that I found that this was the perfect tool to use as it was easy and effective., I found that even after using it the image still looked realistic and professional.

When I first began my “journey” to removing the blemishes of the models face, I had no idea about what exact tools on Photoshop I would need to remove them, so I decided to

experiment a little and try a variety of different tools in order to remove them however ensuring the image looked as realistic and “non – fake” as possible.

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After fixing the spots and odd “unwanted” blemishes I wanted to ensure that the models face was clear of any blemishes even the tiniest area as I am a proud perfectionist so I resorted to zooming closely into the image and smudging the outline of the image to give the image a more perfect and appealing finish, I did this also as it gives the image a more professional look as the edges are more smoother and slightly blurred, this gives the image a more eye catching and appealing look as it makes the image stand out even more. When editing the image I used the “Smudge Tool" as I felt it was the easiest tool to use as well as also being affective .

I used a relatively large sized brush to smudge the outside of my image, this was simply to save time as I was able to smudge a large area of space in one go instead of having to go around it in a smaller brush and it taking twice as longer.

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After adjusting the image to black and white I found that the image was I little to dark and it was very hard to even make out the face of the model. I adjusted the image by clicking on “image” and then clicking on “adjustments” and I then clicked on black and white.

As I found that the image was far too dark I decided to adjust the brightness and contrast of the image as I thought that if I brightened the image it would then make it look more appealing and the models face would be slightly more clearer and visible.

I then saved the Photoshop document as a “JPEG” image to ensure it was easy to place on the InDesign document.