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Unit 8 Cosmetic science Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic scienceUnit overview60 Guided learning hours (GLH)

Learning outcomes:LO1: Understand the cosmetic science industry

LO2: Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application

LO3: Be able to create and present cosmetic products

LO4: Be able to evaluate cosmetic products

Resources provided:Sample scheme of work page 00

Overview of activities page 00

Activities page 00

Sample assessment on CD-ROM

PowerPoint presentation on CD-ROM

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma Unit 8 Cosmetic science

© Pearson Education Ltd 2009. Photocopying and printing permitted for purchasing institution only. This material is not copyright free. 249© Pearson Education Ltd 2009. Photocopying and printing permitted for purchasing institution only. This material is not copyright free.


GLH Content Possible activities Resources

Session 3:

2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (careers related to the cosmetic industry, role and influence of professional associations) (LO1)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives.

Individual work Research one career related to the cosmetic industry or professional association allocated at random. Learner to prepare a 2-minute presentation in role as professional.

Whole class teachingTwo-minute individual presentations followed by Q and A.

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ICT suite for research

Activity 8.2 Cosmetic industry careers: individual research activity

Session 4:

2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Key legal and EU requirements (LO1)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Ascertain prior knowledge. Introduce legal and EU requirements.

Paired workLearners research specific legal requirements (health and safety, sale of goods, animal testing, restricted ingredients, cosmetic labelling) and produces an A5 summary card. Cards are copied by tutor and distributed to all learners.Split learners into new pairings for legal and EU requirements game (Activity 8.3).

Whole class teaching Q and A to check learning.

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ICT suite for research

Photocopier

A5 cards

Card

Scissors/guillotine

Useful websites: www.leffingwell.com/cosmetics/vol_1en.pdf

www.berr.gov.uk/files/file36857.pdf

www.defra.gov.uk/animalh/by-prods/default.htm

www.hse.gov.uk/pubns

www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cosmetics

Activity 8.3 Legal and EU requirements: game of cards

Session 5:

2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Review the scope of the cosmetic science industry (LO1: AC1); Explain the key legal issues in the development and sale of cosmetics (LO1: AC2)


Paired workUse this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment. Learners write an assessment brief for AC1 and AC2, swap with another pair and then work on the brief as a pair.

Whole class teachingReinforce assessment criteria and how it will be achieved using examples of (anonymous) good and improvable responses from the group.

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Unit 8 handbook

Overview purpose of the unit

Overview of learning outcomes

Overview of assessment criteria

Unit 8 Cosmetic scienceSample scheme of work

Guided learning hours (GLH): 60

Structure of delivery: The scheme of work for this unit is divided into 2-hour theory sessions and 2-hour practical sessions, each relating to a specific learning outcome. Following 54 GLH of structured delivery, there are 6 hours for assessment.


Session 1:

2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (LO1)

Whole class teachingIntroduce the unit aims and objectives.Explain the scheme of work and assessment requirements.Demonstrate where other units (3, 5, and 6) link with this unit.Explain the importance of documenting sessions and research methods.Introduce session objectives.

Individual workLearners list as many types of cosmetic as they can think of (Activity 8.1).

Whole class teachingFollowing activity, encourage discussion and extrapolation.

Paired workAsk learners to list careers related to the cosmetic industry. Pair then joins with another pair to share ideas.

Whole class teachingReflect on learning. Encourage learners to compile a dictionary of key terms and definitions throughout this unit using an address book.

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Unit 8 Handbook




Paper, pens

Bell (optional)

Activity 8.1 Understand the cosmetic science industry

Session 2:

2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (careers related to the cosmetic industry, role and influence of professional associations) (LO1)


Whole class teachingVisiting speakers to give presentations on the cosmetics industry.

Whole class teachingLearners complete a reflection log (Activity 8.2). Hold a group discussion to consolidate learning.

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Speakers could include professional organisations, retailers, manufacturers, product representatives, trainers, etc.

Activity 8.2 Cosmetic industry careers: reflection log

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Session 8:

2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Key principles and concepts of cosmetic chemistry (LO2)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Introduce key vocabulary for principles and concepts of cosmetics.

Individual work Learners complete true or false questions followed by completion of definitions in the glossary and/or individual dictionary (Activity 8.7; see Activity 8.8 for answers; Activity 8.9).

Whole class teachingReflect on learning from activities in the session.

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Activity 8.7 Key principles and concepts of the cosmetics industry: true or false

Activity 8.8 Key principles and concepts of the cosmetics industry: answers

Activity 8.9 Key principles and concepts of the cosmetics industry: glossary

Session 9:

2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (shampoo) (LO3)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Introduce equipment, ingredients and recipes for the manufacture of a simple shampoo. Demonstrate shampoo manufacture with attention to health and safety.Tutor to conduct risk assessment.

Paired workLearners manufacture a simple shampoo. They should also produce a product descriptor and label.

Whole class teachingEvaluate the process of manufacture.Share ideas about product descriptors. Reflect on learning from session.

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Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple shampoo

Materials for producing labels

PPE

Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (Allured, 3rd edn, 2008)

Lisa Sharon Belkin, The Cosmetics Cookbook (Booksurge, 2008)

Gill Farrer-Halls, Natural Beauty Recipe Book (Rockport, 2006)

Deb Carpenter, Nature’s Beauty Kit: Cosmetic Recipes You Can Make at Home (Fulcrum, 1995)

Zoe Diana Draelos and Lauren A. Thaman (eds), Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Vol. 30 (Informa Healthcare, 2006)


Session 6:

2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Structure and properties of chemicals (LO2)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Ascertain prior knowledge.Outline key vocabulary relating to structure and properties of chemicals.

Paired workLearners note down key ingredients and other vocabulary from cosmetic labels. Learners attempt to understand cosmetic labels by applying vocabulary to listed ingredients.

Whole class teachingCheck learning through revision questions (Activity 8.4). (See Activity 8.5 for answers.)

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Cosmetic labels and packaging – encourage learners to add to this resource by saving empty cosmetic packages

Ruth Winter, A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (Three Rivers Press, 6th edn, 2005)

Paula Begoun and Bryan Barron, Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, (Beginning Press, 7th edn, 2007)


Useful website:

www.herballuxuries.com/ingredientslist.htm

Activity 8.4 Structure and properties of chemicals: revision questions

Activity 8.5 Structure and properties of chemicals: answers

Session 7:

2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Raw materials and ingredients used in hair, beauty and nail products (LO2)


Group work Fieldwork in local high street/shopping centre (stores, salons, etc.). Give each group of 3–4 learners a specific area to research (e.g. hair care, skin care, nails, colour cosmetics) (Activity 8.6). Learners compile a list of ingredients in a specific range of cosmetics.

Whole class teachingEach group inputs their findings on to a master grid which can be reproduced for individual learners. Tutor to facilitate.

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Paper, clipboard, pens

Risk assessment

Activity 8.6 Key ingredients in hair, beauty and nail products: summary grids

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Session 11:

2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Key principles and concepts of cosmetic chemistry: Types and origins of perfumes used in cosmetic products (LO2)


Paired workAscertain prior knowledge:What are essential oils? Where do they come from?Name examples of essential oils and their uses.

Whole class teachingFacilitate feedback from paired activity on essential oils (Activity 8.11).Give overview of essential oils.Demonstrate uses of oils (vaporiser, room spray, massage). Demonstrations could be enhanced by industry guests.

Individual workGapped handout to check learning of essential oils.

Whole class teachingFeedback and Q and A to check learning.

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CD-ROM: PowerPoint presentation – Essential oils

Selection of essential oils

Industry guests, e.g. aromatherapist, manufacturer, retailer, grower (optional)

Activity 8.11 Essential oils

Session 12:

2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Assess the basic structures and properties of chemicals judging their effectiveness and use in hair, beauty and nail products (LO2: AC3)

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Assess the hazards and harmful effects of chemicals within cosmetic products (LO4: AC6)


Paired workUse this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment under timed exam conditions. Provide each pair of learners with the same range of cosmetics (moisturiser, shampoo, lipstick, hand cream, nail enamel). They should identify the basic structure and properties of the raw ingredients in each product and judge its effectiveness (AC3). They should also assess the potential hazards and harmful effects of each product (AC6).


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Same range of cosmetic products, including moisturiser, shampoo, lipstick, hand cream, nail enamel – either actual products or empty packages or A4 laminated images (one set for each pair of learners)

Unit 8 Handbook





Session 10:

2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Key principles and concepts of cosmetic chemistry: Types and origins of colour pigments and dyes used in cosmetic products (LO2)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Encourage learners to consider the importance of pigments and dyes in cosmetics, e.g. would they use a face cream that was green, a shampoo that was yellow or a hand cream that was without pigment? Introduce pigments and dyes.

Whole class teachingLearners use and evaluate coloured cosmetics at various ‘colour stations’ monitoring their own reactions to various usual and unusual pigmented cosmetics (Activity 8.10).

Whole class teachingFeedback and reflection on learning from the experiential activity.Provide learners with overview of pigments and dyes.

Group activityAsk groups of 3–4 learners to research specific pigments and dyes (e.g. water/oil soluble, animal exudates, synthetic chemicals) and present their findings in the form of an A3 poster.

Whole class teachingReflect on learning from activities in the session.

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For each colour station (table):

5–6 cosmetics (and/or food) of a similar colour: a range of off-the-shelf products in traditional colours and more unusually coloured cosmetics

Food colouring (optional)

Hand-made cosmetics without pigment (optional)

Spatulas, tissues, face wipes, hand wipes, enamel remover, cotton wool, rubbish bins

Paper, pens

ICT facilities for research

A3 paper

Ruth Winter, A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (Three Rivers Press, 6th edn, 2005)

Paula Begoun and Bryan Barron, Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, (Beginning Press, 7th edn, 2007)


Useful websites:

www.rohadyechem.com/cosmetics.htm

www.neelikon.com/cosmetic.htm


Activity 8.10 Pigments and dyes: colour stations experiential

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Session 15:

2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Product descriptors and instructions for use (LO3)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Review legislation regarding cosmetic labelling. Give overview of product descriptors and labels.

Paired workAsk learners to investigate brand cosmetic labels and evaluate.

Individual workProduce a label for a cosmetic product of your choice.

Whole class teachingFeedback and reflect on session.

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Brand cosmetic product labels


Session 16:

2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (moisturiser) (LO3)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Review prior learning of health and safety.Review prior learning of product labelling. Introduces equipment, ingredients and recipes for the manufacture of a simple moisturiser.

Paired workLearners manufacture a simple moisturiser. They should also produce a product descriptor and label.


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Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple moisturiser


PPE

Risk assessment

Session 17:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Testing and trialling of products for human use, evaluate cosmetic products (LO4)


Individual workLearners compare and evaluate products manufactured in previous session plus ‘placebos’ and named brands provided by tutor (Activity 8.12).

Whole class teachingCollate evaluations on to a master score sheet.Reflect on process of evaluation.

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Learners’ products (moisturiser) made in previous session decanted into plain containers and labelled

Placebos and branded cosmetics decanted into plain containers and labelled

For each testing station (table):

1 labelled product; spatulas, litmus paper, tissues

Score sheets for individual learners


Session 13:

2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (careers related to the cosmetic industry) (LO1)

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application (LO2)


Group workVisit to a cosmetics laboratory. Learning can be achieved by observation/shadowing, interview, etc.

Whole class teachingFeedback and reflect on learning from visit:

How does the reality compare with the theory? Careers related to the cosmetic industry.

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Visit to a cosmetics laboratory, e.g. Boots, GlaxoSmithKline, Johnson & Johnson or local laboratory

Session 14:

2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Ingredients, recipes, formulae and equipment required (LO2)


Group workGroups of 3–4 learners create recipe cards for moisturiser, hand cream, lip balm, hair conditioner (including ingredients, equipment and formulae). Cards are photocopied and shared to create a whole class recipe file.


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Recipe cards, pens

Photocopier

Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (Allured, 3rd edn, 2008)

Lisa Sharon Belkin, The Cosmetics Cookbook (Booksurge, 2008)

Gill Farrer-Halls, Natural Beauty Recipe Book (Rockport, 2006)

Deb Carpenter, Nature’s Beauty Kit: Cosmetic Recipes You Can Make at Home (Fulcrum, 1995)


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Session 20:

2 GLH(Continued)

Master score sheet

Activity 8.12 Evaluation of cosmetics: trialling and testing

Session 21:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Historical perspectives on the use of cosmetic ingredients (LO4)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Introduce historical perspectives on the use of cosmetics. Visiting speaker followed by Q and A.


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Speaker could be a college/university lecturer or student of cosmetic science or a local expert

Session 22:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Historical perspectives on the use of cosmetic ingredients (LO4)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Revisit learning from previous session.

Paired workLearners research cosmetic ingredients no longer in use (mercury, white lead, arsenic, DBP, plasticisers) and the reasons why (Activity 8.13).

Whole class teachingFeedback and reflect with Q and A to check understanding.

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Useful websites:

www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/person/cosmet/info-ind-prof/_hot-list-critique/hotlist-liste


Activity 8.13 Ingredients no longer in use: summary

Session 23:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: The potentially harmful effects of a range of cosmetic ingredients (LO4)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Introduce overview of harmful ingredients and effects.

Paired workAsk learners to research harmful ingredients and effects, after which they sort cards identifying ingredients and harmful effects (Activity 8.14).Produce health and safety leaflet to summarise findings.

Whole class teachingIngredients role play. This is a fun activity to assess learning. Working in pairs, learners should role play harmful ingredients. They may use the cards from Activity 8.14 or try to do this from memory. Their partner has to identify the harmful ingredient being played out. Feedback and reflection with Q and A to check understanding.

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Card

Photocopier


Useful websites:

www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/person/cosmet/info-ind-prof/_hot-list-critique/hotlist-liste


Activity 8.14 Harmful ingredients and effects: What am I?


Session 17:

2 GLH(Continued)

Master score sheet


Session 18:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products (LO4)


Group workField work: 3–4 learners collate evidence relating to claimed beneficial effects made by cosmetics manufacturers. Each group could research a specified range of companies (e.g. L’Oreal, Olay, Clarins) and a range of cosmetics (e.g. shampoo, day cream).

Whole class teachingDiscuss research findings. Tutor to facilitate.

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For research: popular magazines, trade journals, newspapers, billboard posters, in-store advertising, leaflets

Visits to department stores, branches of Boots, Superdrug, etc., ICT facilities

Session 19:

2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (hand cream) (LO3)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Review prior learning of health and safety, manufacture and product labelling.

Paired workLearners manufacture a simple hand cream. They should also produce a product descriptor and label.


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Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple hand cream


PPE

Risk assessment

Session 20:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Testing and trialling of new products for human use; Evaluate cosmetic products (LO4)


Whole class teachingIndividual learners compare and evaluate products manufactured in previous session plus ‘placebos’ and named brands provided by tutor.


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Learners’ products (moisturiser) made in previous session decanted into plain containers and labelled





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Session 26:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Testing and trialling of new products for human use; Evaluate cosmetic products (LO4)


Whole class teachingIndividual learners compare and evaluate products manufactured in previous session plus ‘placebos’ and named brands provided by tutor.


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Learners’ products (lip balm) made in previous session decanted into plain containers and labelled





Master score sheet


Session 27:

2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Compare and contrast the effectiveness of cosmetic products in supporting conclusions (LO4: AC7)


Paired workUse this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment. Learners write an assessment brief for AC7, swap with another pair and then work on the brief as a pair.


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Unit 8 handbook




6 hours Assessment


Session 24:

2 GLH

Understand the hazards, testing and trialling of cosmetic products: Organise time and resources to manufacture a cosmetic product (LO3: AC4); Present information to complement cosmetic product and its uses for different audiences (LO3: AC5)


Paired workUse this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment under timed exam conditions. Each pair of learners must produce one cosmetic (moisturiser, hair shampoo, hand cream) from a recipe they produce themselves and design a suitable label/product descriptor (in AC4). Tutor monitors the process (method, use of equipment, health and safety) and assesses the finished product (recipe, product and label mock-up).


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Laboratory equipment and ingredients for cosmetics (moisturiser, shampoo, hand cream)


Unit 8 Handbook




Session 25:

2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (lip balm) (LO3)

Whole class teachingIntroduce session objectives. Review prior learning of health and safety, manufacture and product labelling.

Paired workLearners manufacture a simple lip balm. They should also produce a product descriptor and label.


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Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple lip balm


Risk assessment

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Activity NotesLinks to Functional Skills

Link to PLTS

8.9

Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: glossary

A glossary sheet which can be used to record key vocabulary from the sessions. Encourage learners into the good practice of recording key vocabulary after each session and assessing with Q & A or a ‘hotball’ activity. For hotball: learners stand up until they get an answer right and then they sit down. Tutor starts by throwing a soft ball to a learner and asks them to define a key word. The learner chooses the next key word and throws the ball on to the next learner until everyone has sat down.

English CT, RL, TW, EP

8.10

Pigments and dyes: colour stations experiential

The purpose of this activity is to engage learners in thinking about the importance of pigments and dyes. Sets up various ‘colour stations’ around the room. Learners move to each station in turn and have the choice to use or not use the cosmetics available. You could even include foods – dyed with unusual food colourings. This is a fun activity which should be followed by discussion about why learners were attracted (or not) to different coloured cosmetics and why pigments and dyes are such important features in cosmetics.

English CT, RL, EP

CD-ROM: PowerPoint presentation – Essential oils

It is suggested that this PowerPoint is used to ‘signpost’ the discussion rather than be delivered as a lecture. After each part of the presentation encourage learners to discuss thoughts, ideas and experiences either in pairs or as a whole class activity. Ask learners what they already know. Ask for ideas, thoughts, or experiences about essential oils.

English

ICT

CT, RL, EP

8.11

Essential oils

This gapped handout is intended for use after the PowerPoint presentation an essential oils to check indivudual learning. In a group of experienced learners it could also be used prior to delivery of essential oils to check prior learning. The handout should be completed individually and checked as a group

English IE, RL, CT, EP

8.12

Evaluation of cosmetics: trialling and testing

This activity is designed to focus the learner on aspects of trialling and testing cosmetics that they have manufactured as well as those on the market. Use the guidelines to set up an evaluation session to follow each practical laboratory session.

English

Mathmatics

CT, RL, SM, EP

8.13

Ingredients no longer in use: summary

This activity is designed to share learning in the group and provide summaries for all learners.

English

ICT

IE, RL, TW, EP

8.14

Harmful ingredients and effects: What am I?

This activity can be used to assess prior knowledge as well as to consolidate learning which has taken place during group research. Learners can be encouraged to add to the resource by creating their own ‘what am I?’ cards.

English

ICT

CT, TW, EP

Unit 8 Cosmetic Science Overview of activities

Activity NotesLinks to Functional Skills

Link to PLTS

8.1

Understand the cosmetic science industry

The grid provided has ten rows of five. Learners could raise their hand or ring a bell each time they have completed a row. Alternatively, the tutor/teacher could sound a bell every 30 seconds to find out who is in the lead.

English

Mathmatics

CT, RL, EP

8.2

Cosmetic industry careers: reflection log

Learners can fill in the reflection log after listening to the visiting speakers. Alternatively, the log can be used as a questionnaire for interviewing professionals about careers in the cosmetic industry.

English IE, RL, SM, EP

8.3

Legal and EU requirements: game of cards

The cards can be used at the start of the session to assess prior knowledge of legal and EU requirements. At the end of the session, they can be used to check learning and, later, as revision and preparation for the assessment.

English IE, CT, TW, EP

8.4

Structure and property of chemicals: revision questions

This activity can be used as straightforward revision or assessment of learning. Alternatively, learners can be given the sheet at the start of the session to guide their research.

English IE, RL, TW, EP

8.5

Structure and property of chemicals: answers

Answers to Activity 8.4.

8.6

Key ingredients in hair, beauty and nail products: summary grids

This summary sheet can be enlarged on to four large sheets, one for each product range. Each group of learners can be allocated a corner of the room to input their findings on to the appropriate sheet, either on the wall or floor. A4 copies of the summary sheet can be given to each learner to record key ingredients.

English

ICT

IE, CT, RL, TW, EP

8.7

Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: true or false

A revision exercise to assess prior knowledge or assess learning.

English CT, RL

8.8 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: answers

Answers to Activity 8.7.

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Activity 8.2 Cosmetic industry careers: reflection log

Session 2

Name: Group or class:

Complete the following information on careers associated with the cosmetic industry.

Career:

1. What qualifications are required for this career?

2. What training is required for this career?

3. What career progression is likely in this career?

4. What is the pay scale in this career?

5. Where do people with this career work?

6. Does this career involve travelling?

7. What personal skills are required in this career?

8. What do people with this career enjoy about their work?

9. What do people with this career dislike about their work?

10. What else would I like to find out about this career?

Individual research activity

You will be allocated at random a career related to the cosmetic industry or professional association. Your task is to prepare a 2-minute presentation based on the career. You should speak to the group in role as a professional.

Activity 8.1 Understand the cosmetic science industry

Session 1


In the boxes, list all the types of cosmetics you can think of.

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Activity 8.4 Structure and properties of chemicals: revision questions

Session 6


1. Considering its properties, what kind of hair and/or beauty products might contain the chemical sodium laurel sulphate?

2. Why are preservatives such as quaterneum or paraben added to cosmetic products?

3. How should products containing acetone or quaterneum be stored, considering their potential hazards?

4. Why might an emollient such as cetyl alcohol or isopropyl palmetate be added as a cosmetic ingredient?

5. What does the molecular formula of talc tell us about its component molecules?

6. Considering the potential hazard of paraben and quaterneum, why might the use of products containing these chemicals be contraindicated?

7. What types of cosmetic product might contain a humectant such as glycerol?

8. Considering its properties, in what kind of hair and/or beauty products might you expect to find zinc pyrithione?

9. How does the molecular formula of bisabolol differ from that of isopropyl palmetate?

10. What is the purpose of a chemical emulsifier such as cetyl alcohol in cosmetic preparations?

Activity 8.3 Legal and EU requirements: game of cards

Session 4

This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Photocopy this sheet on to card and cut into individual cells. Each team is given a pack of cards which they have to sort according to the five categories below. Learners should display these as follows.

Row 1: Sale of Goods Act 1979

Row 2: Health and safety

Row 3: Animal testing

Row 4: Restricted ingredients

Row 5: Labelling of cosmetics

Capacity to buy and sell

Sale by sample Returns policiesSales

receiptsReplacement

of goods

Risk assessmentVentilation, heat

and lightProtective clothing

and equipment

Control of hazardous substances

Appropriate training

Animals Act (1986)Clinical trials

Rapid information sharing

Assessing safety and effectiveness

Laboratory research

Food and Drugs Act 1984

Minimising risk of using cosmetics

Cosmetic ingredient hotlist

Reformulation or relabelling

cosmeticsRemoval from sale

Hazards and cautions of cosmetics

Name and address of manufacturer

Product identity and use

Cosmetic classification

Key ingredients

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Activity 8.6 Key ingredients in hair, beauty and nail products: summary grids

Session 7


Complete the summary grids.

Hair product Key ingredients Properties




Activity 8.5 Structure and properties of chemicals: answers

Session 6

This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.

Answers to revision questions (Activity 8.4)

Sodiumlaurelsulphateisadetergentandlatheringagent.Itiscommonlyfoundinshampoosandfoamingcleansers.

Preservativesareaddedtocosmeticproductstoextendtheirshelflifebypreservingthepropertiesoftheactiveingredientsandpreventingdecay.

Acetoneandquaterneumareflammablechemicals.Theyshouldthereforebestoredindarkcolouredcontainers,awayfromdirectsunlight,inacool,darkplace.

Anemollientisachemicalwhichsoothesandremovesdryness.Itisacosmeticingredientofmanyskincreamsincludingcleansers,moisturisersandmassagelotions.

ThemolecularformulaoftalcisMg3Si4O10(OH)2.Thistellsusthatitcontainsthemoleculesmagnesium(Mg),silicone(Si),oxygen(O)andhydrogen(H).

Parabenandquaterneumhavebeenidentifiedaspossibleallergens.Therefore,someonewithaskindisorderorwhoispronetosensitivityshouldnotuseproductscontainingthesechemicals.

Ahumectantisachemicalwhichattractsmoisturetoitself.Humectantssuchasglycerolareusedincosmeticproductssuchashairconditionersandskinmoisturisers.

Zincpyrithionehasantifungalandantibacterialpropertiesandiscommonlyusedincosmeticsdesignedtotreatfungalandbacterialskindisorders.Itisalsoanactiveingredientinanti-dandruffshampoos.

ThemolecularformulaofbisabololisC15H26OwhilethemolecularformulaofisopropylpalmetateisC19H38O2.Bothchemicalscontainthesametypeofmoleculesbutinadifferentratio.Isopropylpalmetatecontainsfourmorecarbonmolecules,12morehydrogenmoleculesandtwomoreoxygenmoleculesthanbisabolol.

Anemulsifierisrequiredtobondtwoimmiscibleliquidstoformanemulsion.Manycosmeticproductscontainbothoilandwaterwhichareimmiscible.Therefore,anemulsifiersuchascetylalcoholisaddedtocreateastablecosmeticemulsion.

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Activity 8.8 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: answers

Session 8

This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.

Answers to true/false questions (Activity 8.7):

TRUE–oxidationisaredoxchemicalreaction.

FALSE–itformsanemulsion.

TRUE–detergentsactassurfactants.

TRUE–oxidationallowsforthegrowthofharmfulbacteriaincosmeticsandisprohibitedbychemicalpreservatives.

FALSE–thenaturalpHofskinandhairisabout5.5,whichisslightlyacidic.

FALSE–theyattractmoisturetotheskin.

TRUE–skiniscooledviaevaporationandthisprocesscanbespeededupbyapplyingavolatileliquid.

FALSE–emollientshaveanourishingandsoothingeffect.

TRUE–shampoosactlikeemulsifierstomixoilwithwater.

TRUE–skinisslightlyacidicandproductsofasimilarpHarekindertotheskin.

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Activity 8.7 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: true or false

Session 8


Each of the statements below refers to a scientific principle or concept relating to cosmetic chemistry. Identify which statements are true and which are false. Circle your answer.

Theoxidationofcarbontoproducecarbondioxideisanexampleofaredoxchemicalprocess.TRUE/FALSE

Whenanemulsifierisaddedtoamixtureoftwoimmiscibleliquidssuchasoilandwater,itformsanemollient.TRUE/FALSE

Shampoosandcleansersactasfoamingagentsbecausetheylowerthesurfacetensionofwater.TRUE/FALSE

Formaldehydeisapreservativeaddedtocosmeticstoavoidoxidation.TRUE/FALSE

SkinandhairarepHneutral.TRUE/FALSE

Humectantsareusedincosmeticproductsbecauseoftheirastringenteffect.TRUE/FALSE

Cosmetictonerscontainvolatilechemicalswhichevaporatequicklyandhaveacoolingeffectontheskin.TRUE/FALSE

Emollientsareaddedtocosmeticstoprovideadeepcleansingfunctionsuchasproductremovingshampoosordeepcleansingfacemasks.TRUE/FALSE

Shampooscleanthehairandscalpbyforminganemulsionwithsebumwhichisrinsedawaywithwater.TRUE/FALSE

CosmeticproductswhichnourishormoisturisetheskinhaveanacidpH. TRUE/FALSE

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Activity 8.10 Pigments and dyes: colour stations experiential

Session 10

This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Set up various ‘colour stations’ around the room. Each station to consist of a table of cosmetics (and/or food) of a similar colour, maybe 5–6 items on each table and 5–6 stations in total. Some cosmetics should be ‘off the shelf’ products in traditional colours (such as red lipstick, white hand cream, brown biscuits), while others should be more unusual. You might find ‘unusually’ coloured cosmetics in party shops, joke shops (e.g. black hand soap) or cosmetics designed for children.You could also make things for the colour stations by adding food colouring to foodstuffs (e.g. green bread) and cosmetic pigments to cosmetics (e.g. acid yellow face cream). You could get learners to help with this or set it up beforehand.You could also include hand-made (or classroom-made) cosmetics, which have no pigment added to them, to measure their appeal.Learners move to each station in turn and have the choice to use or not use the cosmetics available. Encourage learners to focus on their reactions and think about why they would/wouldn’t use a particular product. Have they been ‘conditioned’ to think of particular products as being particular colours? What associations do they make with other colours which are rarely seen in cosmetics? What would encourage them to try other coloured cosmetics? At each station you will also need to provide spatulas, tissues, face wipes, hand wipes, enamel remover, cotton wool and a bin for rubbish. Suggested products:

lipsticknail enamelface cream hand creambody scrub soap hair shampoohair wax/gel.

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Activity 8.9 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: glossary

Session 8


Complete the glossary by adding a definition to each term listed below.

Glossary Definition

Redox reaction

Oxidation

Reduction

Acid pH

Alkaline

Immiscible

Volatility

Humectant

Emulsion

Emollient

Surfactant

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Sessions 17/20/26

This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Cosmetics produced by the group are decanted into similar pots and labelled. You should also add other products, including placebos and branded cosmetics, decanted into plain containers which are also labelled. None of the products should be identifiable as being produced by a particular learner or company.

Set up testing stations around the room/laboratory. Each station to have:

one labelled producta supply of spatulaslitmus papertissues.

Each learner evaluates each product in turn in terms of:

consistency colourperfumeappearancepH.

Give each learner a product to take home and evaluate its effectiveness over time and claimed beneficial effects.

Create a scoring system. For example, at the testing stations, each category could be scored out of ten to give a maximum score of 50. For the home trial, the two categories could each be scored out of 25. This will give a total maximum score of 100. Each learner adds their score for each product to a master score sheet on the wall.

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Activity 8.11 Essential oilsSession 11


Complete the following paragraphs by writing in the missing words from those below.

absolute, bacterial, chamomile, citrus, concentrate, cosmetics, distillates, eucalyptus, evaporate, extraction, flammable, floats, flowers, herbal, lavender, photosensitivity, plant, pregnancy, pressing, smell, steam, storing, toners

Essential oils are used in cosmetics not only to improve their but

because of their additional properties. Different oils have different properties. Uses of essential

oils in include oil in soothing face masks,

oil in deodorant and in relaxing massage

oil. Herbal , which are by-products of essential oils, are used as skin

.

Essential oils are produced by from raw

materials. Methods of production include distillation, expression and solvent extraction. Distillation

is the most commonly used method of essential oil production. Raw plant material is heated over

so that the essential components as vapour.

As the vapour cools, the essential oil to the surface and is removed. The

product left behind is the distillate. Expression involves mechanically

the raw materials of plants. It is used to produce essential oils from the peel of

fruits to produce oils. Solvent extraction is used to obtain essential oils from

. A solvent is used to extract a mixture of essential oil and oil soluble plant

material which is called a . Another solvent is used to extract the essential oil

form the concrete mixture to produce an .

Care should be taken when using and essential oils. They can cause skin

so specific aftercare advice should be provided. Ingestion of essential oils

during can harm the foetus. Untreated herbal distillates are prone to

oxidisation and growth. Care should be taken when storing essential oils as

they are liquids.

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Activity 8.14 Harmful ingredients and effects: what am I?

Session 23

This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Enlarge and photocopy this sheet on to card and cut into individual cells. Give each group a set of cards which they have to sort according to the harmful ingredients they describe.

Paraben

I am a chemical used in cosmetics as a preservative.I am found naturally in plants and am also produced synthetically.

I am generally safe but can cause a reaction if you are allergic to me.

As a salt or compound I am fungicidal and bactericidal.

Lanolin

I am a by-product of the wool production industry.I am a well-known skin allergen that can cause contact dermatitis.

I can be contaminated by pesticides used on foliage grazed on by sheep.

I am a water-in-oil emulsifier and am high in animal sterols.

Talc

I can irritate the lungs causing coughing and vomiting.

I am produced by crushing, drying and milling a mineral rock.

I am a potential carcinogenic and am related to asbestos.

Traces of me have been found in tumours in the lungs and ovaries.

Aluminium

I have been known to cause localised skin irritations.

Complex salts are used in high factor sunscreens.

My salts, as chlorohydrates, are used in antiperspirants.

There is insufficient evidence that I am linked with breast cancer.

CMR ingredients

I am a carcinogenic, mutagenic and/or repro-toxic ingredient.

I am controversial and governed by EU legislation.

I include phthalates and DBP which are prohibited from use.

I am an ingredient no longer in use because I am hazardous.

Bovine extract

I am derived from the brain, spinal cord and small intestine of cows.

The potentially harmful effect of adding me to cosmetics is BSE.

Extracts from live animals are relatively risk free.Collagen and gelatine have no known harmful effects.

Activity 8.13 Ingredients no longer in use: summary

Session 22


Complete the summary sheet.

Ingredient Cosmetic Associated hazard

Mercury

White lead

Barbiturates

Arsenic

Coal tar dye

Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)

Formaldehyde

Plasticisers

Hydroquinone

Warfarine

Zirconium