Wee baby Elements CALby Sandra Kuijer
The Wee Baby Elements Blanket was designed to create a babyblanket that was similar to the
Elements blanket, but sweeter and lighter. The texture of the blanket will be different from the
Elemements blanket after round 8. Overall the Wee Baby Elements will feel light and soft because
of the velvet feel of the Softfun.
The Wee Baby Elements is a perfect soft blanket for a little baby or for a pretty throw or lapghan.
I thought hard what yarn to use, tried different ones, from merino to normal wool but eventually
decided to use these two: Scheepjes Cahlista and Softfun. I just love all the colours in the Cahlista
range. Cotton makes the pattern easy, little to no blocking needed. Pure cotton yarn however
would make the blanket too rough and heavy for a babyblanket. I’ve tried to use a cotton blend
with merino, wool, used thin cotton, soft cotton, Scheepjes stonewashed, and after all the try-outs
I’ve decided that Scheepjes Cahlista and Softfun are the best to use for this blanket. Hope you
enjoy this pattern and the blanket as much as we did.
Crochet hook: I have used a clover amour crochet hook 4.5 mm for the first 13 rounds. I changed my crochethook to a 5 mm at the start of round 14 untill the last few rounds, I changed back to a size 4.5 mm in round 50. It’s a lot easier to work with a hook with a smooth round top when working with cahlista.
Changing colours: In the pattern we will be changing from a colour to white after every round. I did cut the yarn after each round and took care of it with an invisible join. You can find a youtube instruction on how to do so here. 2 of my testers carried the white yarn moving from one round to the next. It works fine but if you are a beginner please follow the pattern by closing each round with an invisible join. If you prefer to carry the yarn, feel free. In the pattern I mention both, a slipstitch and an invisible join. However I did not explain every first stitch on new rounds for the slipstitch method, so make sure you do this the right way. If you are not sure how…. don’t mind the ends and cut your yarn as I have :-P
Stitches used & Abbreviations Pattern uses US English crochet terminology
ch chain
sc Single crochet
hdc Half double crochet
dc Double crochet
Trc Triple crochet
St(s) Stitch(es)
sl.st Slip stitch
Sk Skip. Please note that not all skips are mentioned in the pattern.
Rnd Round
Sp Space.
Ch1-sp A space formed by a ch1. Note that in this pattern you will always work in the space, you go around the chain
FPsc Make a normal sc but instead of going into the top of a stitch, make your sc around the stem of the indicated stitch. Go from front to back
around the indicated stitch
BPsc Back post single crochet. Like above, but now you go from back to front around the indicated stitch.
FPdc Front post double crochet
FPhdc Front post half double crochet
FPtrc Front post triple crochet
FPdc2tog Front post double crochet 2 together
FP Front post; FPst is a stitch that is made front post
BP Back post; BPst is a stitch that is made back post
GS Granny Special - A group formed by a (dc, trc in the round below the previous round, and dc). This can be either FPtrc or normal trc
GH Granny Hook – A group made in a corner, formed by a (GS, ch2, GS)
Cluster Crochet a dc2tog in indicated st or sp. All legs of the dc2tog go in the same st or sp.
popcorn Make 5 dc in the indicated st. Remove your hook from the last dc and insert your hook in the first dc. pull the last st through the first st and make a ch1 to complete the popcorn st
V5pop Make 5 sc in the indicated st. Remove your hook from the last sc and insert your hook in the first sc . pull the last st through the first st and make a ch1 to complete the V5popcorn st
Punctuation
** An asterisk indicates pattern repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between the asterisks
a number of times.
Parentheses<> indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between parentheses the
amount of times specified. This is a lower level repeat that can appear between * and * repeats
Parentheses ( ) are used to indicate a group of sts to be worked into the same st.
Instructions
Wee Baby Elements CAL week 1
Round 1: with color 1
Ch4, join with a sl.st. in the first ch to form a little ring.
Please no magic circle here! A ch4-ring with sl.st. is needed for stability as you will be working in the ring later. A magic circle wiggles loose in our experience.
1
Round 2: with color 1 Crochet around the ch4ring you made in round 1. Ch2 (counts as your first dc), 1 dc, ch2, *2 dc, ch2* repeat from * to * two more times. Join the round with sl.st. or invisible join in the top of the ch2 which counted as your first dc.
2
Round 3: with white Crochet around the chains to work in the indicated space. In this round you work in front of the previous rounds. You start this round with a standing dc in any ch2-sp of round 2. Make 1 First GH in the same space:
First GH: 1 standing dc in ch2-sp of round 2, 1 trc around the ring from round 1, in between the groups of 2 dc’s and working in front of Round 2 (see photo 3+3.1), Work (1 dc, ch2, 1 dc) in same ch2-sp of round 2, 1 trc around ring from round 1 working in front, 1 dc in same ch2-sp of round 2. (see photo 3.2)
*Skip next 2 dc’s of round 2, make 1 GH in the next ch2-sp*. Repeat from * to * 2 more times.
GH: 1 dc, 1 trc around ring from round 1, in same ch2-sp of round 2 (1 dc,ch2,1 dc), 1 trc around the ring from round 1, 1 dc in same ch2-sp of round 2 (see photo 3.3).
Join round with sl.st. in top of the first dc or use an invisible join.
3
3.1
3.2
3.3
Round 4: with colour 1 In this round you work in front of the previous rounds. Start in any ch2-sp in a corner of rnd 3. Make first GH in any corner ch2-sp:
First GH: 1 standing dc in corner ch2-sp of round 3, 1 trc in ch2-sp in corner sp of round 2 in between the two dc’s of round 2, Work (1 dc, ch2, 1 dc) in same ch2-sp of round 3, 1 trc in ch2-sp in corner sp of round 2 below, 1 dc in same ch2-sp of round 3.
Skip (dc, trc and dc) of round 3, Make following three stitches (photo 4). Remember to work in front of the previous rounds: 1 dc in between two GHs of the previous round, 1 trc in between the 2 dc’s of the same color in Round 2 (photo 4), 1 dc in between two GHs of the previous round, Skip the next 3 sts (dc, trc and dc) of previous round. * 1 GH (see below) in the next cornerch2-sp, skip the (dc, trc and dc) of round 3, work in the middle (photo 4): 1 dc in between two GHs of the previous round, 1 trc around round 2 working in front (photo 4) 1 dc in between two GHs of the previous round, skip the next 3 st* Repeat from * to * two more times.
GH: 1 dc, 1 trc in the corner ch2-sp from round 2 working in front Work (1 dc, ch2, 1 dc) in same ch2-sp of round 3, 1 trc in the corner ch2-sp from round 2 working in front 1 dc in same ch2-sp of round 3.
Close the round with a sl.st on top of the first dc or use an invisible join (Photo 4.1)
4
4.1
Round 5: with white A GS is defined as (a dc, a trc/FPtrc in the round below the previous round, and a dc). Please note that a GH consists of two GS’s and a corner ch2-sp in between. In this round you work in front of previous rounds. Start in any ch2-sp in a corner of rnd 4. Make First GH in any ch2-sp in a corner:
First GH: 1 standing dc, 1 trc in the ch2-sp from round 3 below working in front of round 4, Work (1 dc, ch2, 1 dc) in same ch2-sp of round 4, 1 trc in the ch2-sp from round 3 working in front of round 4, 1 dc in the same ch2-sp of round 4.
*<Skip the GS (dc, trc and dc) of round 4, Work 1 GS in next sp in between two GSs of round 4> (Photo 5) Repeat between < and > one more time
GS: 1 dc in between two GSs of the previous round, 1 FPtrc around the trc of the same color from round 3 below (Photo 5.1), 1 dc in between two GSs of the previous round.
Skip the GS (dc, trc and dc) from round 4, Work 1 GH in the corner ch2-sp*
GH: 1 dc, 1 trc in the ch2-sp from round 3 working in front of round 4, Work (1 dc, ch2, 1 dc) in same ch2-sp of rnd 4, 1 trc in the ch2-sp from round 3, in front of round 4, 1 dc in same ch2-sp of rnd 4.
Repeat between * and * three more times leaving out the last GH of the repeat in the corner. Join the round with a sl.st in the first dc or use an invisible join. (Photo 5.2)
5
5.1
5.2
Round 6: with colour 1 Start in any ch2-sp in a corner of rnd 5. Make First GH in corner ch2-sp:
First GH: 1 standing dc, 1 trc in ch2-sp of round 4 working in front, Work (1 dc, ch2, 1 dc) in same ch2-sp of round 5, 1 trc in ch2-sp of round 4, 1 dc in same ch2-sp of round 5.
* Skip the GS (dc, trc and dc), <1 GS in next sp in between two GSs of the previous round> Repeat between < and > two more times
GS: 1 dc in between two GSs of the previous round, 1 FPtrc around the FPtrc of round 4, 1 dc in between two GSs of the previous round.
Skip the GS (dc, trc and dc) of round 5, Work 1 GH in the corner ch2-sp.
GH: 1 dc, 1 trc in ch2-sp from round 4 working in front of round 5, Work (1 dc, ch2, 1 dc) in same ch2-sp of round 5, 1 trc in ch2-sp from round 4 working in front of round 5, 1 dc in same ch2-sp of round 5*
Repeat between * and * three more times leaving out the GH in the last corner and join the round with a sl.st in the first dc or use an invisible join. You now have three GSs along every side and one GH in each of the corners.
6
Round 7: with white From this round onwards we will only use the abbreviations of the combinations of stitches. If necessary, look back to see what either GS or GH means. Start in any ch2-sp in a corner of rnd 6. Make First GH in corner ch2-sp *<Skip the GS of round 6, 1 GS in between the two GSs> Repeat between < and > three more times Skip the GS of round 6, 1 GH in the corner ch2-sp.* Repeat between * and * 3 more times leaving out the last GH in the last repeat. Join the round with a sl.st in the first dc or use an invisible join. (photo 7)
7
Round 8: with colour 2 Start in any ch2-sp in a corner of rnd 7. Make First GH in corner ch2-sp, * <Skip the GS of previous round, 1 GS in between the two GSs> Repeat between < and > four more times. Skip 1 GS of round 7, work 1 GH in the corner ch2 space* Repeat between * and * 3 more times leaving out the last GH of the repeat. Close the round in the first dc with a sl.st or use an invisible join . Photos 8 + 8.1 front and backside of your work as it should look now.
8
8.1
Round 9: with white Start in any ch2-sp in a corner of rnd 8. Replace the first sc of this round by a standing sc. *1 sc in corner ch2-sp of Round 8, 1 trc in the corner ch2-sp from round 7 working in front of Rnd 8, Work (1 sc, ch1, 1 sc) in same ch2-sp of round 8 (Photo 9), 1 trc in the corner ch2-sp from Round 7 working in front of Rnd 8, 1 sc in same ch2-sp of round 8, Sk the first dc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first sc will go in the FPtrc, the second in the dc after that), 1 FPdc around the FPtrc from round 7, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPtrc), (photo 9.1) 1 FPdc around the FPtrc from round 7, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts (the first sc will go in the FPtrc), 1 FPdc2tog around the next two white FPtrcs from round 7 (photo 9.2), Sk 3 sts, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts (the second will go in the FPtrc), 1 FPdc around the FPtrc from round 7, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts (the second will go in the FPtrc), 1 FPdc around the FPtrc from Round 7, Sk 2 sts 1 sc in each of next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPtrc) (photo 9.3)* Repeat between * and * 3 more times Join the round with a sl.st in the first sc or use an invisible join (photo 9.4).
9
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.4
Round 10: with colour 2 Start in any ch1-sp in a corner of rnd 9. Replace the first sc of this round with a standing sc. *1 sc in corner ch1-sp, 1 dc around the corner ch2 from round 8 working in front of round 9, 1 sc in corner ch1-sp (photo 10+10.1), Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPtrc), 1 FPdc around the next FPtrc from round 8, Sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPdc), 1 FPdc around the next FPdc from round 8 (photo 10.2), Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPdc), 1 FPdc around the next FPtrc from round 8, 1 FPhdc around the white FPdc2tog from round 9 (photo 10.3), 1 FPdc around the next FPtrc from round 8, Sk 3 sts from round 9, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the 2nd will go in the FPdc), 1 FPdc around the next FPtrc from round 8, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the 2nd will be in the FPdc of rnd 9), 1 FPdc around the next FPtrc from round 8, Sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the 2nd will go in the FPtrc), Sk the last st, ch1 (photo 10.4)* Repeat between * and * 3 more times Join the round with a sl.st in the first sc or use an invisible join (photo 10.5)
10
10.1
10.2
10.3
10.4
Round 11: with colour white Start this round in the dc in any of the corners. Replace the first sc by a standing sc. *In corner dc work (1 sc, ch1 and 1 sc), ch1, sk the first sc, 1 sc in the next st (photo 11), 1 FPdc around the FPtrc of same color from round 9, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPdc) (photo 11.1), 1 FPdc around the next FPdc from round 9, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPdc), 1 FPdc around the next FPdc from round 9, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts (photo 11.2), 1 FPdc around the next FPdc from round 9, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the second sc will go in the FPdc), 1 FPdc around the next FPdc from round 9, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first will go in the FPdc) (photo 11.3), 1 FPdc around the next FPtrc from round 9, Ch1, sk 1 st, 1 sc around the ch1 from round 10, ch1 (photo 11.4), Sk the first sc you made in the corner of round 10* Repeat between * and * 3 more times. Join the round with a sl.st in the first sc or use an invisible join
11
11.1
11.2
11.3
11.4
Round 12: with colour 2 Start this round in the ch1-sp in between two sc’s in any of the corners. Replace the first sc by a standing sc. *1 sc in the ch1-sp between the two sc’s of rnd 11, 1 FPdc around the FPdc from round 10, In same ch1-sp of rnd 11 work 1 sc, ch1, sk 1 st (this is the sc in the corner of rnd 11), 1 sc in the next ch1-sp of rnd 11 (photo 12 + 12.1), Start making a leaf: 2 FPdc around the same dc from round 10 where you just made your first FPdc (photo 12.2 + 12.3), Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first one will go in a FPst), 1 FPdc around the FPdc from round 10, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first one will go in a FPst), 1 FPdc around the FPdc from round 10, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the first one will go in a FP st), Work 1 FPdc2tog around the first and third of the next three FPdc from round 10. The middle st is left unworked (photo 12.4), Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the second one will go in a FPst), 1 FPdc around the nextFPdc from round 10, Sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts (the second is a FPst), 1 FPdc around the FPdc from round 10
12
12.1
12.2
12.3
12.4
Sk 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st (this is a FPst), 1 sc in next ch1-sp from round 11, ch1, 1 sc in the next ch1-sp from round 11. This ch1-sp is right before the first sc in the corner (photo 12.5), ch1, sk first sc in the corner* Repeat between * and * 3 more times. Join the round with a sl.st in the first sc or use an invisible join.
12.5
© Copyright Sandra Kuijer – Hooks and Yarn @hooksandyarn.NL Please do not copy, reproduce, or distribute this
pattern in parts or as a whole in either digital or in print. Without the designer permission it’s not allowed to sell
yarnkits and include the pattern, even if the pattern is free by Hooks and Yarn. This pattern belongs to Sandra Kuijer
and she retain all rights to it. Copyright is protected by Hooks and Yarn For questions and info please mail
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