The 18th CenturyIf it ain’t Baroque, don’t fix it.

Keeping Up Appearances

British Dandies

Macaroni’s

Italian Influence

British Colonies

Civil Unrest

Eventually declare independence

At war on two fronts

6

Arkwright’s Spinning Machine

Hargreaves Spinning Jenny

X

1700 - 1750

1750 - 1800

1700 - 1750

White shirts with ruffled frill

Vests that were sleeved or sleeveless

Vest shorter than outer coat

Outer coat wider

Coat cuffs wide

Knee length breeches1700 - 1750

Throughout Century

Formal coats have lavish embroidery

Made from silk

The Ditto Suit

Coat, vest (waistcoat), breeches all same fabric

Less Formal Attire

Frock coat

Casual

Flat, turned down collar,

Looser fit

1750 -

1800

Shorter Vests

Closely fitted breeches

Narrower jacket

Cutaway/curved front below waistline

Before 1750 After 1750

13

X

X

Pocketbook

Wigs

Shoes with Gold Buckles

Three-Cornered Hat

Important Accessories

Lingering Styles

17th century styles stick around until 1720.

Women’s Undergarments

Women’s Undergarments

Chemise

Stays (corset)

Under petticoat

Hoop

Style Changes

1715 - 1730 1730 - 17601760 - 1790

1715 - 1730

Wide

Unfitted

1715 - 1730

1715 - 1730

Simple hairstyles

1730 - 1760

Skirts less round

Wider side to side

Fitted in back: à l’Anglaise

Full, unfitted pleats at shoulder back: à la Française

à l’Anglaise à la Française

1730 - 1760

Square necklines

“V” shaped insert at front

Stomacher

Highly ornamented

Full skirts with slit in front

Worn over matching/contrasting petticoat

Calash

1760 - 1790

Formal Court attire stays same

Style changes to a dress with skirts held out by a pad

Skirts looped up in puffs to form a “polonaise”

1760 - 1790

1760 - 1790

Polonaise is popular

Cotton from India

Dress cut similarly to a chemise

1760 - 1790

Fullness in skirt shifts to back

Bodice front looks “puffed”

Soft scarves tucked into necklines

Fichu

Working Class Women

Shortgowns

Petticoats

Straight, unfitted, washable tops

Outerwear

Children

Philosophers suggested

Practical

Comfortable

For health and development

32

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

C H A P T E R T E N

THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURYc. 1700 - 1800

For Further Study

Actual Costumes Of This Periodhttp://www.kipar.org/baroque-costumes/extant-costumes.html http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/nbg/index.shtml http://www.brooksmuseum.org/public/exhibitions/default.asp?id=10000170 http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/narrative.php?irn=80&QueryPage=index.php&themeback=1 http://www.metmuseum.org/special/Dangerous_Liaisons/fashion_images.htm http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tseighteenth/1700-1799.html

Art Of The 18th Century Depicting Costumehttp://www.marquise.de/en/1700/index.shtml http://mauritia.de/en/rococo/rococo_costumes.html http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/18thCent.htm http://witcombe.sbc.edu/ARTH18thcentury.html

Specific Items Of Costumehttp://www.lecurieux.com/eca1.htm http://www.spnea.org/NEHM/NEWWSpringPage04.htm http://www.northampton.gov.uk/museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/18th_Century.htm http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/BANYAN.HTM

33

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

C H A P T E R T E N

THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURYc. 1700 - 1800

For Further Study

African American Clothinghttp://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/aa_cover.cfm

Additional Information About Costume Of This Periodhttp://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/clothing.cfm

Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.

34

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

C H A P T E R T E N

THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURYc. 1700 - 1800

Image Credits

Image of British Macaroni, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.

Image of Calico Printer, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.

Image of Men at a Table, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection, Joshua Reynolds Portrait.

Photo of Panier, used courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ].

Various images used courtesy of [ www.trousseau.net ].

Various images used courtesy of [ www.vintagetextile.com ].

Image of Woman in Calash used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection.

Images of British Cartoons used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection.

Image of Woman in Cloak used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection.

Image of 18th Century Pocket used courtesy of [ www.historywired.si.edu ].

Various images used courtesy of [ www.manchestergalleries.org ].

Various images used courtesy of Dover Publications.

Various images in this chapter are courtesy of [www.clipart.com]; [ www.photos.com ];

Fairchild Publications, Inc.; and Fairchild Library.