Upload
virtu-institute
View
195
Download
2
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Waistline around ‘belly button’
Hipline 20cm under waistline
Length Waistline To Ankle
Measurements Required
Crutch Line 7cm under hipline
Thigh measurement
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
EASE = Ease of movement
When creating patterns you need to add EASE into actual body measurements so you can move in the garment
BUST LINE = 4cm (BREATHING)
WAIST LINE = 2cm (EATING)
HIP LINE = 4cm (SITTING) THIGH =
4cm (MOVING)
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Equipment Pattern paper, ruler with a straight and curved edge Pencil, (rubber)
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Begin with drawing a grid. CB line, waistline , hipline and knee line. Measure your whole leg length from waistline and continue the CB line down to the hemline
Continue line down to leg length to obtain the hemline
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Trace back skirt block onto the grid.
Trace front skirt block, aligned at the hipline, knee line and hemline.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Draw the Crutch Line. 7cm under the hip line CONTINUE line past the CB and CF
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Trousers from a Skirt Block
A skirt flows down the sides of your body, where as trousers going between your legs need to have an extension down the centre of the block to create the inside leg seams.
This is added at the Crutch Line. Measurement is obtained by measuring your THIGH.
Small Thigh - big space between legs = small measurement. This needs less extension.
Big Thigh - small space between legs = larger measurement. This needs a longer extension at the crutch line.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Hipline
Crutch Line
To make trousers you need to extend the crutch line to be your thigh measurement plus ease of movement.
This creates the curved crutch seams, and inside leg seams.
The inside leg of trousers sits towards the BACK and never in the centre of your body on trousers. 2/3rd are at the back and 1/3rd at the front
Divide your hip measurement in half THIGH MINUS HALF HIP = total extension of crutch line required to fit your leg.
2/3rd back leg extension PLUS 2cm ease 1/3rd front leg extension PLUS 2cm ease
EXAMPLE HIP 90cm/2 = 45cm THIGH 51cm 51-45cm = 6cm
BACK = 4cm +2cm ease = 6cm FRONT = 2cm + 2cm ease = 4cm
C B
C F
CRUTCH LINE
Extension Formula
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Extend crutch line OUT from CF
Thigh Minus half hip = total extension of crutch line FRONT = 1/3rd plus 2cm ease – Example shows 4cm
FRONT LEG
Join crutch line extension to the hipline with a deep curve
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
FRONT INSIDE LEG SEAM
Join crutch line extension down to knee line. Curve inwards
MINUS 1cm at knee line position.
Take this minus 1cm down to the hemline.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
BACK INSIDE LEG
Extend crutch line OUT from CB
Thigh Minus half hip = total extension of crutch line
BACK = 2/3rd plus 2cm ease Example shows 6cm
DEEP curve inwards, minus 1cm at knee line
Continue straight down to hemline.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
You now need to displace the top of the back skirt to add in room for your bottom.
DRAW A LINE UP from the hipline at the CB.
NO change at the side seam.
Add around 3-4cm, depending on how much your bottom protrudes outwards.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Place the skirt block on the NEW line and re-draw the top, including the dart
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
RED line shows new top back of the trousers
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
SMOOTH the side seam by extending 2-3MM’s at the hipline to make it straight down, connecting to the crutch line.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
CENTRE BACK CRUTCH LINE
Join the crutch line extension point to the new displaced top of the back with a deep curve.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
SIDE SEAM
Minus 1cm at knee line on the side seam, back and front.
Take the line down parallel to the hemline. Reducing inside and outside leg seams at knee line down to hemline.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
TROUSERS FROM A SKIRT BLOCK
RED dotted line is original skirt block
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Cut out finished skirt block
FITTING SAMPLE Add 1cm seam allowance around: CB and CF crutch lines Inside leg seams, back and front Outside leg seam, front and back
NO NEED waistline or hemline for a fitting sample
Add NOTCH Marks – two at CB, hipline, knee line and zipper notch 2cm above HL at side seam.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Cut out trouser block fitting sample.
Fold fabric in HALF, align selvedge (natural edge) together against the edge of a table.
The bottom is where the fabric was cut in the shop.
WEIGHT down or use pins to cut.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Cut into notches 2-3mm which will help you sew.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Mark darts in for sewing, a pencil mark or use a pin at the bottom of the dart.
Or if you are new to sewing draw the dart line lightly with a pencil to help you sew.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
1. Sew all 4 darts2. Sew CB crutch seam together3. Sew CF crutch seam together4. Sew outside leg LEFT side seam
from UNDER the zipper notchdown to the hem
5. Sew right left outside leg seamtogether
6. Sew inside leg seams to finishtrouser fitting sample
LEFT outside leg seam is left open at the top where the zipper goes for fitting purposes
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Try trouser sample on. Front Darts = should sit comfortably around your stomach Thigh – bend your legs, there should be enough ease of movement but not too big.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
Back trousers should reach the waistline and fit around your bottom Back darts should stop at the top curve of your bottom.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
If the trousers do not fit over your bottom nicely adjust the amount you added in at the back hipline.
Too small = add more Too big = remove
If trousers are too big or too small at hipline and waistline adjust at the side seam. You can also reduce or add to the dart width for a perfect fit.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block
FINISHED TROUSER BLOCK Confirm your block onto card for repeated used. Sample above shows the knee and hem lengths quoted on it also.
A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Trouser Block