Created by Alivia Chamberlain 2009

Soap MakingSoap MakingSoap MakingSoap Making

Equipment Needed

� Scales (that measure to the gram)

� Heat proof jug, eg Pyrex.

� Wooden spoon

� Measuring jug

� Rubber gloves, glasses, covered shoes and clothing.

� Moulds (not metal due to erosion)

� Stick blender

� Pot

Soap Recipe

• Wearing safety clothes1 measure out exact amounts of Lye2 105g and 245g of chilled

distilled or filtered water and then mix them together stirring gently in a heat proof jug until

dissolved. Stand back if vapours are too strong. Then leave in a safe place to cool to 40o.

• Spray moulds with oil. Have optional additives3 ready to add.

• In a pot heat slowly 400g of Olive Oil, 250g of Coconut Oil, and 100ml Castor Oil to 40o.

• Again wearing the protective gear, pour the 400 Lye into the 400 Oils.

• With the stick blender turned off gently stir the mixture for 1 minute. Then pulse then blender

on for 3 seconds. Continue alternating between turning the stick blender on for longer times

and stirring with it off, until trace4 is achieved.

• Add any additives to the soap. Gently mix them in so as not to make the soap too thick.

• Pour into moulds. Tap moulds down to release any air bubbles. Put moulds in a warm place so

the saponification process continues. 99% of the lye has now been neutralised and is therefore

now safe to handle. After 4 days it will be completely pH neutral and gentle on the skin.

• After 24 – 48 hours the soap will be solid enough to remove from the moulds. It can then be

carved into bars if needed.

• Then the soap needs to be placed somewhere dry to set for 4 to 6 weeks until hard enough to

use.

1The Lye is a caustic metallic base that can burn the skin. It is safe to use when wearing gloves,

glasses, and clothing covering skin. Keep a bottle of vinegar handy while soap making as it can

neutralise any spills. It will take a couple of minutes of skin contact before you will feel irritation.

2Lye is also known as Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH or Caustic Soda. It is available at supermarkets in

the drain cleaner section. Be careful not to buy drain cleaner with any other drain cleaning

ingredients. The brand I have been using without any problems is called Mechanix.

3Optional additives you can include are essential oils (15-25ml), fragrances, natural colours, clay,

vit E oil, rosehip oil, jojoba oil, finely crushed walnut shell, shredded loufa, seeds and flowers (with

which will need a preservative like grapeseed oil or vit E oil). The more oils that are added then

the softer the soap and the less chance of it setting.

4Trace is when a little of the mix is dribbled back into the pot and it leaves a little "trace" behind.

Some people describe the "trace" as a little mound of soap that takes a second or two to

disappear back into the mix. The soap does not have to be really thick just yet, it just needs to be

well mixed with no streaks of remaining oil.

Created by Alivia Chamberlain 2009

Oils

(You can use a lye calculator to create your own recipes)

Apricot Kernel Oil - Light and easily absorbed by the skin. It is rich in minerals and vitamins

and has healing qualities for dry, inflamed, sensitive skins and eczema.

Avocado Oil - It’s pressed from dried and fresh avocado. It’s high in Vitamins A, B, D and

antioxidants. Has a beneficial effect on dry skin and wrinkles.

Canola Oil - Is an economical choice for soap making. It produces a low, creamy, and

moisturising lather. It is a good substitute for a portion of olive oil but slows down the trace rate,

so should be no more than 50% of base oils.

Castor Oil - Expressed from the Castor Bean. Has the ability to "draw" impurities, clear and

sooth the skin. It's highly appreciated for the rich, fluffy, luxurious lather it imparts. Should be

no more than 15% of your base oils, as it will make your soap too soft.

Cocoa butter - Expressed from the roasted seeds of the Cocoa plant. Softens and lubricates the

skin.

Coconut Butter/Oil - Is the primary soap making oil. Pressed from the dried meat of the

coconut. Adds lather and moisturising properties, though using more than 30% as your base can

be drying on the skin.

Jojoba Oil - A natural liquid from the kernels of the Jojoba desert plant. Technically not an oil,

but a wax and similar to the skins own sebum. It has superior moisturising properties. Jojoba is

a very stable oil, with long shelf life due to its antibacterial characteristics.

Macadamia Oil - An effective soap making oil that is good for all skin types, especially those

with dry or mature skin.

Mango butter-Extracted from the mango kernels, mango butter is rich and nourishing.

Olive Oil - A popular and classic ingredient. Makes a mild soap that helps prevent moisture loss

on your skin and is believed to help in skin cell regeneration. It is important to use the lowest

grade oil available. Pomace is the lowest grade and the best for soap making due to its retention

of beneficial oils after the saponification process.

Palm Oil - Commonly used in soap making because it is cheap, adds hardness to soap, and

speeds up the saponification process. I never use or consume it due to the deforestation of south

east asia taking place to farm it.

Rice Bran Oil - Naturally rich in antioxidants, rice bran oil is particularly suitable for dry,

sensitive, and mature skins

Shea Nut Butter - From the nuts of the Bassia parkii tree in Africa. It is high in unsaponifiables

and adds moisturising properties to soap. Shea Butter is rich in vitamins that absorbs easily in

the skin.

Sweet Almond Oil - Great moisturiser and skin conditioner that absorbs well and is good for

sensitive skin.

Handy links

http://www.aussiesoapsupplies.com.au Local ingredient supplier and palm oil free soap recipes.

http://down---to---earth.blogspot.com/2007/07/how-to-make-cold-pressed-soap.html recipe.

http://www.greeningofgavin.com/2010/10/our-soap-recipe.html recipe

http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php lye calculator

http://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx lye calculator

Happy Soap making ☺