Essential tools and equipment requirements for shoe design

Essential Tools and Equipment's Required for Shoe Design

Department of Leather Engineering, KUET, Khulna-9203.

Pattern/Footwear Pattern• Pattern is a flat representation of a three dimensional shape to two dimensional

shape. In case of footwear design & pattern making, a three dimensional foot shape is converted to a two dimensional shape through a masking process, and then we get required footwear pattern and on which desired design is performed.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pattern Making

• Manual Design and Pattern Making

• Virtual Design and Pattern Making

• Combination of manual and virtual design and Pattern Making


Manual Design and Pattern Making

Manually Design and then Patterns are prepared or developed manually.

• Shoe Last Masking,

• Flattening,

• Mean Forme preparation,

• Standard Forme preparation,

• Sectional patterns preparation,

• Lining patterns preparation,

• Bottom and other Patterns Preparation.


Virtual Design and Pattern Making

Virtually Design and then Patterns are prepared or developed using CAD/CAM software.

• Virtual Shoe Design,

• Flattening,

• Mean Forme Preparation,

• Standard Forme preparation,

• Sectional patterns preparation,

• Lining patterns preparation,

• Bottom and other Patterns Preparation.S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Combination of manual and virtual design and Pattern Making1. Virtually Design and then manually pattern making

• Visual Shoe Design

• Then manually pattern making

2. Manually pattern making and then virtual Pattern Engineering and Grading

• Manually Standard Forme Preparation,

• Then virtual Pattern Engineering and Grading


Manual Pattern Making Tools

• Last/Forma

• Cutting Board/Cutting Mat

• Pattern/Cartridge Paper

• Masking Tape

• Measuring tape

• Pencil

• Clicking Knife

• Ruler (Steel Scale)

• Divider

• Scissor

• French Curve

• Awl/ Pricker

• Thread cutter


Last/Forma

• Last is the replica of human foot.

• Last is the first for the manufacturing of foot.

• The last is the most complicated & scientific element in the whole shoe construction process & is crucial as it dictates the precise form, measurement and adaptation properties of the footwear designed and manufactured on it.


Last/Forma


Cutting Board/Cutting mat

• It is necessary as patterns are generally cut on it so that so tables or others surfaces can not be damaged by sharp edge of knife.

• Plastic cutting mat is better than other materials.


Cutting Board/Cutting mat


Pattern/Cartridge Paper

• Used for Different kinds Footwear/Leather products pattern making.

• Some times colored papers also used for lining pattern making.


Pattern/Cartridge Paper


Masking Tape

• Used to masking the last to make 2Dpattern.

• Different Widths: 15mm,12mm,18mm & 25 mm are also used.

• Popular width 15 mm.


Masking Tape


Measuring tape

• Measuring Tape is required for checking lengths & widths on curved surface.

• Narrow type measuring tape is better for pattern making purpose.


Measuring tape


Pencil

• Pencil: 2B, 4B & HB

• For initial Sketch 2B & 4B better.

• Lid Pencils may be used.


Pencil


Clicking Knife

• Different types of blades can be used in it.

• Can be used to cut both paper & materials (For sample making)

• Can be bought from hardware shops.


Clicking Knife


Clicking Knife: Anti Cutter

• It is also one kind of clicking knife.

• Generally it is used for pattern cutting.


Anti-Cutter


Clicking Knife: Scalpel

• Available in a variety of sizes with choice of disposable blades.

• The plastic disposable type of scalpel should not be used as it breaks too easily.


Scalpel


Ruler (Steel Scale)• A precision steel ruler both English & metric measurements.

• Common type is 12 inch long.


Ruler (Steel Scale)


Divider

• Used for adding parallel lines to patterns e.g. for allowances.

• Essential to create design using punching, to facilitate even spacing.

• Available in size, four or five inch legs are probably the best for pattern cutting.


Divider


Scissor

• In some cases, scissors also used for pattern cutting & footwear upper materials cutting.


Scissor


French Curves

• During design drawing French Curves are helpful to make curve drawings.


French Curves


Awl / Picker

• Used for marking through patterns

• Marking prick

• Copying round through patterns


Awl / Picker


Thread Cutter

• Generally used to cut unnecessary threads

• Sometimes used during pattern making for trimming.


Thread Cutter


Virtual Design and Pattern Making Tools and Equipment's

• High Definition Computer

• CAD/CAM Software

• 3D Digitizer or 3D Last Scanner

• 2D Digitizer

• Plotter or Pattern Cutter

• Pattern Paper


High Definition Computer

• Used as a medium of Virtual Design

• Fulfill requirements required for high quality Graphic Design.

• Compatible with software.



High Definition Computer

CAD/CAM Software

• CAD utilizes computers, graphic display, automatic drawing machines and other peripheral devices for interactive or automatic design and drawing.

Functions Involved in CAD:-- Geometric modeling(pattern

Design)-- Optimum Design--Automatic drawing


CAD/CAM Software for Shoe Design

Supplier Address System

Cimtech Ltd. Trenton, Ontario, Canada Descom 3D and Grad

Gerber Camsco Inc. South Windsor, Connecticut, USA

Grade Matic (GM) 510 and APEX II

Lectra systems Cuesta, France Module E16, Module E54

Microdynamics Inc. Dallas, Texas, USA FDS-50, FDS-1500, FDS-300

USM/EMHART Beverly, Mass, USA Crispin, USM2,USM3

VicamComputer systems

Vienna, Austria Padsy I

Shoe Master Torricelli, Italy Premium, ES PRITE, CLASSIC, Power


Software


3D Digitizer or 3D Last Scanner

3D Digitizer:

• Used to digitize 3d Last Sample.

• More time required and accuracy less than 3D Last Scanner.

3D Last Scanner:

• Used to Scan 3D sample Last.

• Less time required and accuracy high.


3D digitizer

3D Digitizer and 3D Last Scanner

3D Last Scanner


2D Digitizer

• Used to digitize 2D pattern


Plotter• Used to cut 2D pattern output automatically using CAM

system.


Plotter


Plotter


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Presented by:S. M. Murshidur Rahman

Department of Leather Engineering,Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET), Khulna-9203, Bangladesh.

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