Formulating according to the ‘SEED Principle’

TERRI VINSON COSMETIC CHEMIST

(BSc. DipFormChem. DipEd. ASCC)

®

Potential Conflicts Yes/No

Air Fares or accommodation supplied by organisation or company related to presentation

NO

Shareholder or director in company associated with presentation

NO

Direct or indirect payment received from company or organisation associated with presentation

NO

Direct or indirect payment received from outside organisation or entity to perform investigation being presented

NO

Past payment for services by company or organisation associated with presentation

NO

Any other conflict of interest relevant to the presentation. YES

Speaker’s declaration of interest

®

What is the SEED principle

Stability

Effectiveness

Elegance

Delivery

Terri Vinson (BSc. Dip Form Chem. Dip Ed. ASCC)

Cosmetic Chemist and Formulator

Synergie Skin®, Synergie Practitioner, Synergie Minerals®

®

Clean science®’ formulating philosophy harnesses the best of science

and nature without questionable ingredients.

e.g

• Paraben preservatives

• Artificial colours (FD&C)

• Artificial fragrances

• Petroleum by-products (e.g. mineral oil)

• SLS

• PEG

• Propylene glycol

• Phthalates

The element of Clean Science®

“Natural” is not always best.

®

Nerium oleander

What is a cosmeceutical?

The pathway to change Over the counter skincare products

Prescription only drugs

Cosmeceutical

®

Vitamin A (Retinol Molecular)

Vitamin B (Niacinamide/Vitamin B3)

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

Micronised inorganic sunscreen

Peptides

The 5 cosmeceutical essentials:

Vitamins ABC, peptides &

inorganic sunscreen

®

Vitamin A (Rovisome) the ‘skin regulator’

EFFICACY: MODE OF ACTION 1. Regulates epidermal turnover

2. Reduces inflammation

3. Reverses photoaging

4. Preserves & stimulates collagen

5. Regulates oil production

6. Reduces irregular pigmentation

®

Stability

Efficacy

Elegance

Delivery

Delivery of Retinol Conversion in the skin

1. Retinol→ RBP on keratinocyte (cell membrane)

2. → RA conversion (cytoplasm)

3. →RABP (nuclear membrane)

4. →nucleus

5. →binds to DNA receptor sites (RXR’s and RAR’s)

6. → transcription → various cell processes

KERATINOCYTE

®

RBP

Retinol

Transcription

for various

cell processes

RABP

Cytoplasm

versus STABILISED RETINOL PURE RETINOL

New stabilised Retinol how does it compare to traditional retinol?

Deeper penetration

Increased stability

Minimal irritation

STANDARD FILM MOLECULAR FILM

EPIDERMIS

Horny layer

Clear layer

Granular layer

Prickle layer

Basal layer

®

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) the ‘multi-tasker’

1. Increases hydration (↑ ceramide production)

2. Decreases inflammation (↑ barrier proteins for protection

from environmental damage)

3. Immunity: prevents immunosuppression by UV light

4. Reduces excess oil

5. Addresses pigmentation (↓ transfer of melanin)

6. Collagen production (B3 precursor of collagen)

®

Stability

Efficacy

Elegance

Delivery

Niacinamide Clinical data

Hakozaki et al

• 138 Japanese women

• Split face trial

• 8 weeks with 5% niacinamide

Baseline 8 weeks

Niacinamide reduces skin yellow appearance of

hyper pigmented spots

IN VITRO IN VIVO

®

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) the ‘skin fortifier’

1. Potent antioxidant

2. Photoprotection

3. Anti inflammatory

4. Collagen

5. Pigmentation

The most abundant antioxidant in human skin

®

Skin Damage Cell-damage DNA-damage

Stability

Efficacy

Elegance

Delivery Nucleus

Vitamin C: L ascorbic acid Clinical data

Control Pure

L-ascorbic

15%

Ascorbyl

Palmitate

MAP

L-a

sco

rbic

acid

ab

so

rptio

n

(p

mo

l/m

g)

IN VITRO DATA

IN VIVO DATA

6 week clinical trial

Baseline

6 weeks

(Courtesy of Dr. Alex Eshaghian, MD, PhD)

®

The chemistry of application

Retinol

+

Niacinamide

+

Acids (L-Ascorbic or AHA’s)

Acids (L-Ascorbic or AHA’s)

Retinol

+

Niacinamide

®

Zinc Oxide Physical sunscreen

Your number 1 skincare product is SUNSCREEN Hero ingredient: Zinc Oxide

®

Stability

Efficacy

Elegance

Delivery

1. UVA/B blocker

2. Infrared blocker

3. DHT blocker

4. Anti inflammatory

5. Antimicrobial

Chemical (organic) VS physical (inorganic) sunscreen

Chemical UV filter

organic molecules

Mineral UV filter

New generation sunscreen

(micronized and nanoparticles)

Epidermis

Dermis

Sunscreen

ab

so

rptio

n

Mineral makeup and

traditional sunscreen

(coarse particles)

scattering

reflection

ab

so

rptio

n

reflection

scattering

®

In vivo study: Melbourne 40% ZnO + TiO2 formula

UV PROTECTIVE CAPACITY

anhydrous mineral foundation

UV scanner : Detects physical sun protection (dark purple)

Subject: 22 yo female

PROTOCOL

• 1 layer anhydrous mineral foundation applied right side of face

• T0 and T6 hours observed

CONCLUSION

• Immediate physical UV protection

• 6 hour broad spectrum protection

T 0hrs

T 6hrs

®

SEED formulating philosophy

Stability

Effectiveness

Elegance

Delivery

®

www.synergieskin.com

Thank you!

TERRI VINSON COSMETIC CHEMIST

(BSc. DipFormChem. DipEd. ASCC)