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Pocket bag inside welt pocket

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whafi.com http://whafi.com/sewing-techniques/pocket-bag-inside-welt-pocket

Pocket bag inside welt pocket

WHAT IS IT?

Welt pockets have a narrow rectangular bound opening on the surface and the pocket bag hidden on the inside.Welt pockets can be single-welt pockets, with one strip of fabric binding the opening, or double-welt pockets,which have two strips binding the opening and look like a large bound buttonhole (page link). In fact, they aresewn nearly the same way, with the addition of a pocket bag. This is an advanced type of pocket construction. Aswith bound buttonholes, practice will help you master the technique!

Double-welt pocket

Pocket bag inside welt pocket

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

Welt pockets are used on the backs of trousers and shorts,on suit jackets and on coats. Welt pockets also make greatinterior pockets. Sew welt pockets either horizontally orvertically, depending on where you are placing them and theangle you’ll be reaching from. They’re more involved to sewthan slash pockets (page link), inseam pockets (pagelink) or patch pockets (page link), but they are flat andsubtle. Their tailored look makes them excellent for menswear, suiting and tailored coats. Welt pockets work bestin fabric that presses well, such as wool or other suiting fabrics, cotton twill and denim. Make sure you can press anice flat crease in your fabric so the welts will be well defined.

Tips + Notes

Welt pockets cannot be moved once they are sewn, so be absolutely sure of the pocket position beforesewing!

If your fabric is prone to fraying, you may want to add fusible interfacing (page link) on the garment fabricbehind the pocket placement line. Cut a strip 1″–2″ (2.5cm–5.1cm) wide and slightly longer than the pocketmarking. Fuse the strip in place before starting to sew the pocket.

For a casual look, and to hold the pocket bags in place, topstitch (page link) around the pocket bagedges on the right side of the garment.

For faux welt pockets, sew the welts in place but skip the pocket bag. Sew the facing behind the welts to fillin the gap. I like faux welt pockets for a smoother line on dressy trousers, but it is nice to have functionalpockets as well. It’s up to you!

HOW TO SEW A WELT POCKET

In this example of sewing a double-welt pocket, the pocket is placed horizontally on the back of trousers, but theprocess is the same for vertical pockets. Welt pockets are sewn to the garment panels while they are still flat.Make sure the pocket line is clearly marked on the panel. If there is a facing on the pocket bag, finish the edges ofthe facing and place it on the pocket bag.

Edgestitch (page link) the facing to the pocket bag along the finished edges. This will fill in the gap when thepocket opens, so the pocket lining fabric doesn’t show.

Interface (page link) the pocket welts, then fold them in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and baste alongthe raw edges. Center the welts along the garment’s pocket line, raw edges against the line, and sew down themiddle of each welt parallel to the pocket placement line. Make sure the starting and stopping points on each weltare in line with each other.

Sew the back pocket lining to the lower welt only, along the previous stitching, right side facing down, and finishthe seam allowances. You might find it easier to flip over the piece and sew from the other side of the garment,

Page 2: Pocket bag inside welt pocket

where you can see the previous stitching.

Slash along the pocket line between the stitching lines. Clip diagonally toward the corners.

Turn the welts and back pocket lining to the inside. If there are puckers in the corners, you may need to clipfurther into the corner to release the fabric. Line up the welts so the folds meet in the middle of the pocketopening, and stitch the fabric triangles down on top of the welt ends. Baste across the triangles once, turn andcheck that the edges are square and that there are no gaps between the welts. Then stitch over the trianglesseveral times. Press (page link) the welts and the opening, and press the pocket bag down. Edgestitch (pagelink) around the welt opening if desired.

Fold the pocket lining upward along the fold line, thereby lining up the raw edges. Sew the top welt seamallowances through the back pocket lining and facing. This ensures that items only go down into the pocket bag,not up above the welt.

Sew the sides of the pocket lining and finish the seam allowances. If your pocket bag extends all the way to thetop of the garment piece, baste the pocket lining to the garment along the top edge.

Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + DefinitionsAbout the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine

Tags: how to sew a welt pocket, how to sew on a pocket, pockets, sew a pocket, welt