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EGYPT

Not only was it the climax of that trip, itwas also the final highlight. That night, inFebruary 1986, security police conscriptsstormed out of their barracks in Giza, burn-ing nearby hotels and businesses and clash-ing with the army. Instead of flying to Luxorthe next morning I took refuge at an airporthotel when the airport was locked down anda city-wide curfew was imposed, and Icaught a special repatriation flight back tothe UK the following day.I felt immensely sad, not just for my

unfortunate timing but also for what I fearedwas the end of Egypt’s tourism industry. Ineedn’t have worried. The insurrection wasquickly quelled, the capital soon recov-ered and the tourists returned. In theintervening years, Egypt has suf-

fered several harrowing terrorist attacks, ashave many countries including the UK, ofcourse. Yet each time it has bounced backstronger than before.Huge investment in its tourist infrastruc-

ture, with the development of classy, newresorts and extensive leisure facilities, hasbeen matched by slick advertising campaignsand, just as important, a strong security pres-ence in tourist areas.All have helped make Egypt more popu-

lar than ever. With prices in eurozone coun-tries rocketing because of the weak pound, itoffers British tourists even better value formoney compared toother holiday destina-tions this year.

Far from put-

ting people off, the visible security measuresare a reassuring factor. On my most recentvisit, in December, I took a Nile cruise withmy wife. At night as our luxury ship cruiseddownriver, two security guards manned amachine gun on the stern. As I photographeddawn over the Nile from the back of the ship,they nodded in acknowledgement of mysmiled greeting and happily let me photographthem and the gunagainst the ris-ing sun. Youcan’t evenphotograph

May/June 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 7

My first visit to Egypt23 years ago was anadventure I will neverforget. I was in Cairoon a short businesstrip, but managed to

squeeze some whistle-stop sightseeing inbetween meetings on my final day that wouldhave even exhausted a Japanese tour leader.Time was ridiculously tight, but I didn’t

mind as I was heading on to Luxor the nextday for some R and R, followed by diving inthe Red Sea at Hurghada prior to my flighthome.At least, that was the plan.Renting a taxi for the day in Cairo (as

cheap as a single journey I had taken in aLondon cab), I set off for my pre-arranged appointments. Mylunchtime meeting was at the

venerable Mena House Oberoi hotel, rightnext to the pyramids at Giza. I spent lunchgazing in awe through the windows at themighty edifices.With another meeting due later that after-

noon, I grabbed 15 minutes at the GreatPyramid of Cheops, one of the SevenWonders of the ancient world – most of itspent haggling with a camel driver whoselumbering steed I clambered aboard just longenough to have my picture taken in front ofthe pyramids and Sphinx – before jumpingback in the taxi.Next stop was Sakkara, the necropolis for

Egypt’s ancient capital, Memphis, where his-toric structures include the Step Pyramid.The oldest of all pyramids, it lies some 30kmsouth of Cairo past timeless rural scenes, andits lack of tourist hordes and nearby built-upareas made it feel even more special than itsGiza counterparts. But there was no time todwell. I was on a mission.A guide took me on the briefest of tours,

enlightening me by pointing out that the fish-shaped hieroglyph carvings were, in fact, fishwhile the wavy lines above them representedthe Nile. I’d never have guessed.After a fast journey back to Cairo for my

final meeting, I was dropped at the EgyptianMuseum just 15 minutes before closing time.Glancing at the statues on the museum’sground floor, I sprinted up the stairs to reachmy ultimate goal – the exquisite, golden

mask and other funerary exhibits fromthe tomb of Tutankhamun.

6 The Travel & Leisure Magazine May/June 2009

getting to KNOW

�����������

PeterEllegard

PeterEllegard

PeterEllegard

Egypt is flavour of the moment this year, and with goodreason. Offering far more than just dusty old tombs anddesert, it combines magical history tours with gloriousbeaches, high-class resorts and much more besides.

Peter Ellegard fell under its spell long ago…

Main photo and below left: Egyptian State Tourist Office� Pyramids at Giza, Cairo

� Karnak Temple, Luxor� The Karnak Temple sound and light show� Al-Azhar Mosque minarets, Old Cairo� The souk at Aswan

FLORIDA

stylish Palm Beach and Naples to chicMiami Beach; shopping; sports galore onland and at sea; rich Native American her-itage; and skyborne natives from bald eaglesto space shuttles.I have visited countless times over the

years. It is a place I never tire of returning to,and feels like home each time I go back. Yetdespite having travelled around the entirestate, there are still many places I have eitheryet to visit or have not been back to for along time which I know have changed out ofall recognition.Florida is very much a family affair for

me. My oldest daughter, Louise, was a meretoddler when we first visited. She fell in lovewith it on that and subsequent visits, includ-ing during a road trip around the USA afteran exchange programme semester at ArizonaState University, and she spent her postgraduation year working for Disney inits Cultural Representative Programme– as a serving wench at the Rose andCrown pub/restaurant in Epcot’s BritishPavilion.I met up with Louise then while on a

business trip to Orlando and we had afun dad-daughter bonding session overseveral days, visiting all the main themeparks and going on rides includingExpedition Everest in Disney’s AnimalKingdom.We both acted like big kids andcouldn’t stop laughing.Louise’s younger sibling, Jennifer,

became a water baby when we took heron her first overseas holiday, to Florida,before her second birthday. We couldn’tkeep her off the beaches, and when weput her in a swimming pool onLongboat Key, near Sarasota, she tookoff, face down, like a miniature torpedo– only gasping for breath when I ranround to the other end to pluck her outof the water.Florida is not just a family destina-

tion, though. It is a haven for sportslovers. Golfers have 1,250 courses to choosefrom around the state. There’s diving all alongits eastern coastline, from coral reefs to artifi-cial reefs – sunken ships – and deep sea fish-ing off both coasts.

True romanticsIt’s a place for true romantics, with idyllicsunsets over deserted beaches framed bypalm trees, luxury spa resorts and restaurantsoverlooking azure blue waters. Amelia Islandhas the romantic-sounding Fort Clinch,

although actually named after a 19thcentury general, while the Gulf Coastoffers Honeymoon Island State Park,near Clearwater, and Lovers Key StatePark, near Fort Myers.You can even get married and spend

your honeymoon night below the water,at Jules Undersea Lodge in Key Largo.A former underwater research labora-tory, it is now a two-bedroom hotel fivefathoms (30 feet) deep in a mangrovelagoon which you have to dive under-neath to gain entry. Couples can getmarried in it, and even have flowersand a wedding cake. The increasedpressure is reputed to enhance sex. Iwouldn’t know.When I stayed in it, I got stood up

by an Italian journalist – male, I mightadd – who no-showed, leaving me tospend the night underwater alone savefor the fish staring at me through thehuge portholes. After a shower I felt soself-conscious I grabbed a towel to pro-tect my decency, and I couldn’t sleep awink that night for the thought of all

The Travel & Leisure Magazine 7March/April 2009The Travel & Leisure Magazine6

With everything from MickeyMouse to manatees and

squeaky-soft sand to swamps,the Sunshine State is a familyfavourite. Peter Ellegardfinds Florida’s charms

irrestible…

March/April 2009

getting to KNOW

It’s a familyaffair

Ican’t deny it. I’m smitten by a sul-try temptress; a blonde-fringedbeauty who first seduced me some25 years ago and who keeps draw-ing me back to her steamyembrace. Yet this affair is one that

has the wholehearted approval of my wifeand family. Indeed they are every bit asmuch besotted with this exotic maiden. Hername? Florida.Of course, we are far from alone. Each

year, around 1.5 million of us Brits jet off toAmerica’s southernmost state, and even withthe credit crunch and the pound buyingfewer dollars this year our collective love forthe Sunshine State seems undiminished.Florida has always had strong appeal for

families. Hardly surprising, given the factthat Orlando is the world’s biggest play-ground. It has been home to Mickey Mouseand friends at Walt Disney World since1971, after which it was followed byUniversal Studios, SeaWorld and a host ofother visitor attractions. They continue toreinvent themselves with new rides, showsand other offerings.

Beaches and chic citiesBesides theme parks, Florida also serves upmany other reasons to visit: stunning goldenand white-sand beaches, among the best inthe US; nature experiences such as swim-ming with manatees and dolphins; exoticwildlife havens like the Everglades; naturalbeauty above and below the water in theFlorida Keys; accommodation from afford-able to pure indulgence; vibrant cities fromVi

sitFlorida

VisitFlorida

Top tips� Go round theme parks anti-clockwise to avoid crowds.� Start early when visiting theme parks. If staying nearby, go back for a siesta or swimin the heat of the day, then return later when the crowds have thinned.

� Stay on-site at a DisneyWorld resort hotel to enjoy Extra Magic Hours (three extrahours’ admission a day) and unlimited transportation.

� Don’t pack smart clothing as it is hot and Floridians are informal.� Hire a car and explore. From Orlando you can drive to beaches on both coasts inless than 90 minutes.

Disney/Diana

Zalucky

PeterEllegard

� Splashing time atMarineland, St Augustine

� Universal'sIslands ofAdventure

� Disney street party

RAIL EXPERIENCES

sometimes described as land cruises, as theyshare many characteristics including aleisurely pace to enjoy the views, sumptuousfood and “shore” excursions. On some trainsyou sleep onboard in cabins which convert toseated accommodation by day; others oper-ate day trips only, or with accommodation inhotels.An example of the latter is Canada’s

Rocky Mountaineer (www.rockymountaineer.com), its main route being betweenBanff andVancouver with one night spent inKamloops. Gold Leaf class passengers enjoy

the best views in glass Dome Carriages, asthe train crosses the Rockies and descendsto the Pacific or vice versa.Australia’s most iconic trains criss-cross

this vast country – the Indian Pacific fromwest to east (Perth to Sydney); and the Ghanfrom north to south (Darwin toAdelaide, viaAlice Springs) (both www.gsr.com.au).

The Ghan was named after the Afghancamel herders who first beat a path into theOutback, and the route was extended fromAlice Springs to Darwin as recently as 2004.You sleep onboard these trains, with

staff converting the seats into beds as youdine. You can have a reclining seat ratherthan a sleeper berth, but that’s not recom-mended on long journeys (68 hours fromPerth to Sydney!) when you’ve reached acertain age.

Whistle stopsThe scenery is not as attractive as in Canada,but the bar and lounge carriages are con-vivial and some of the journey is in dark-ness. “Whistle Stop” excursions are avail-

My most guilty trainexperience came onemorning as I enjoyeda champagne break-fast on the BritishPullman while pass-

ing through the London suburbs. Downcastcommuters gazed enviously as I raised aglass, before piling into theirsardine cans.I felt like royalty. Ever

since I steamed off as a childon the Red Rose express fromLiverpool, I’ve been fascinated bytrains and travelled as far as Australiato ride in them. But there are stillmany famous trains I’ve yet to try,and the range grows every year tosatisfy public demand to travel in style.Orient-Express, operator of several

luxury trains including the BritishPullman, brought back the golden era of

train travel in the 1980s, when the BBCscreened its first Great Railway Journeysof the World programme. Some people haveticked off every journey in the four series,following in the tracks of Michael Palin,

Clive Anderson & co.You don’t have to be a champagne-

guzzling wannabe aristocrat, as thereare several styles of rail holiday. You

can spend over £5,000 on a tripjust around Scotland, or rough itwith ordinary folk taking theirchickens to market. Most journeysfall somewhere in between, eitheron privately-operated tourist trains

or reserved carriages on national railnetworks.

Land cruisesMany tour operators are now involved,although there are only a few rail spe-cialists. No wonder these holidays are

let’s TRY…????

n From left to right: the Ghan, Palace on Wheels, and Coast Starlight passing Mount Shasta

Goingloco

n The spectacular FlamRailway in Norway

n The GoldenPass Line train

Whether you want to relive the golden age of trains orexperience stunning scenery in effortless comfort, rail holidaysare the perfect antidote to today’s stressful world. And as Dave

Richardson reports, there are plenty of tempting loco motives…‘You don’t have tobe a champagne-guzzling wannabe

aristocrat’

Allphotos:GreatRailJourneys

42 The Travel & Leisure Magazine May/June 2009 May/June 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 43

THEATRES

The Travel & Leisure Magazine 73March/April 2009

Jersey BoysPrince EdwardTheatreBox Office: 0844 4825151 (Seats £20–£60)If you don’t alreadyknow who they are,then you will know theirmusic – with smash hitsincluding Beggin’, OhWhat a Night, Sherry,Big Girls Don’t Cry,Can’t Take My Eyes OffYou andWalk Like aMan, the Jersey Boys will

have you singing andtoe-tapping to yourheart’s content!This fantastic musicalwas the winner of theBestWest End Showaward at theVisitLondon Awards 2008. Ittells the story of FrankieValli and the FourSeasons, one of thebiggest American popbands of the 1960s, andwill entertain bothyoung and old.

Keeley Gordon

The Travel & Leisure Magazine72 March/April 2009

LondonTheatre Facts� The most expensive show ever staged in theWest End:The Lord of theRings – £12.5 million.

� The longest running musical: Les Misérables – 23 years.� The oldestWest End venue:Theatre Royal, Drury Lane – designed by SirChristopherWren, it opened in 1674 on the site of a theatre whichopened in 1663.

� London’s first playhouse originally opened in Shoreditch in 1576. Recentlyfound by archaeologists, its timbers were transported to Southwark tobecome the first Globe theatre, in 1599. Shakespeare’s Globe (above), areconstruction close to the site of the original, opened in 1997.

� The biggestWest End theatres (in terms of seats): London Coliseum(2,358), home of the English National Opera;Apollo Victoria (2,304);London Palladium (2,291); Royal Opera House (2,262).

Top 5 current long-runningWest End shows1 The Mousetrap, St Martin’sTheatre (play/thriller – £13.50-£36): 56 years.

2 Les Misérables, Queen’s Theatre(musical – £12.50-£52.50): 23years.

3 The Phantom of the Opera, HerMajesty’s Theatre (musical/drama –£20-£55): 22 years.

4 Blood Brothers, Phoenix Theatre(musical drama – £20-£50): 20 years.

5 TheWoman in Black, Fortune Theatre (play/thriller – £13.50-£39): 19 years.

Where to get ticketsYou can buy half-price theatre tickets from thetkts booth in Leicester Square, an official half-price and discount theatre ticket outlet inLondon operated by the Society of LondonTheatre.There is a wide variety of LondonShows to choose from every day and you canalso buy full-price tickets in advance from here.Alternatively, go to:www.visitlondon.co.uk

Did you know?� Frankie Valli played Rusty Millioin The Sopranos.

� The group enjoyed 16 top 40hits in the US in just 28 monthsbetween 1962 and 1964.

� Sherry, the Four Seasons’ firstnumber one hit, was namedafter Jack Spector’s daughter.Jack was a disc jockey on theradio station,WABC.

Nearby Restaurants

Treat yourselfThe Ivy1–5West StreetWC2H 9NQTel: 020 7836 4751 or020 7580 6022www.the-ivy.co.ukAverage price: £45-54.The Ivy is one of theWorld’s most famousrestaurants and offers anelegant pre-theatredining experience.Booking is essential.Good for: Celebrityspotting.

Good valueKettners29 Romilly StreetW1D 5HPTel: 020 7734 6112www.kettners.comAverage price: £25-34.Recently refurbished,Kettners is one of theoldest restaurants inLondon’s theatreland,founded in 1867.Good for:Champagne Bar.

Cheap eatChinatownGerrard Street, SohoAverage price: Below £20.www.chinatownlondon.orgGood for: All thingsChinese and a must-seevenue with heaps of cheapplaces to eat as well as agreat atmosphere.

Oh what a night ...� Jersey Boys (above): Nick Massi(Philip Bulcock), Frankie Valli (RyanMolloy), Bob Gaudio (StephenAshfield), and Tommy DeVito (GlennCarter)

Brinkhoff&

Mogenburg

Visit

London

Brinkhoff&

Mogenburg

Brinkhoff&

Mogenburg

Nik

Milner

LONDON Review

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REYKJAVIK

ESCAPE to…

Ethereal music drifted aboveus into the pale blue cloud-less sky, blonde-haired red-cheeked children were ontheir parents’ shoulders andthere was a worrying display

of woolly lopipeysa jumpers on Icelandersof every age from 0 to 60, considering that

this city is famed for its cutting-edge fash-ion.

Under the glare of the midnight sun, Isaw the cream of Icelandic music perform ina festival celebrating the environment inReykjavik last year, and it’s one of the expe-riences of my life.

It ended somewhat less poetically in the

upstairs bar at Kaffebarinn, where I wasteaching two Aussie visitors to loveBrennivin, the Icelandic spirit brewed fromfermented potatoes and flavoured with car-away seeds, while sharing my spot at the barwith the lead singer of Sigur Rós, a gaggleof dancers from Björk’s show in neon tribalmake-up, and a transatlantic stag party.When I collapsed into bed mid-morning, thesun was still blazing through the window asit had all night.

My love affair with Reykjavik startedlong before the economic crash, when a pintof beer still cost around £5 (it’s now about£2). In January, The Economist’s annual

On top of theworld

Iceland’s weird and wonderful capital of cool, Reykjavik, is afeast for the senses – and the economic crash has now made itaffordable for short breaks. For Laura Dixon, it was love at

first sight, if not at first bite…

May/June 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 23

� The Blue Lagoon

� The Northern Lights � Vatnajökull Glacier � Hot springs near Hverageri town – South Iceland

All photos: Iceland Tourist Board

As a child my weekendsstarted as I woke up in anarrow twin bed at mygrandparents’ house in thetiny golden stone cladWarwickshire village of

Fenny Compton. The night before my sisterand I would have been carried asleep to thecar, bundled up in a duvet, for the hour and ahalf journey up the M40 from London. Wewouldn’t stir until the next morning when weheard the sound of horses being led to exer-cise underneath our bedroom window.

The days were spent watching steeplechas-es at Warwick Racecourse, and shopping inthe traditional market towns of Southam andShipston-on-Stour. If my mother was therethen things got more cultural and we visitedthe myriad stately homes in the area, playedknights and princesses in the grounds ofWarwick Castle and watched plays inStratford-upon-Avon.Through these weekends, I developed a

life-long affection for what has come to beknown as Shakespeare Country and, althoughthe Bard and his life in and around Stratford-

55

Family weekends near the home of England’s greatest playwrightleft Sasha Wilkins with a lifelong love of Shakespeare Country.As she reveals, there is far more to this region than the Bard

The Travel & Leisure Magazine

on your DOORSTEP

timesBard

SHAKESPEARE COUNTRY

ShakespeareCountry

ShakespeareCountry

Shakespeare:Did you know?� Shakespeare is buried at Holy TrinityChurch in Stratford.

� There’s no conclusive proof thatShakespeare was the author of any ofthe work ascribed to his name. Popularauthorship contenders include FrancisBacon, Christopher Marlowe,WilliamStanley (6th Earl of Derby) andEdward deVere (17th Earl of Oxford).

� Shakespeare’s vocabulary wasenormous, containing approximately29,000 different words.

� There are five properties connected

with Shakespeare’s life to visit in andaround Stratford, including his wifeAnne Hathaway’s Cottage.They are alllooked after by The ShakespeareBirthplace Trust, which is opening anew visitor centre and exhibition in2009 entitled Life, Love & Legacy:ANew Introduction toWilliamShakespeare (http://houses.shakespeare.org.uk).

� The 2009 RSC Stratford-Upon-Avonseason opens with AWinter’s Tale.Other plays include The Comedy ofErrors, Julius Caesar and AsYou Like It.For more information, go towww.rsc.org.uk

� Stratford's Courtyard Theatre

ShakespeareCountry

� Shakespeare’sbirthplace

March/April 2009

� Stratford Butterfly Farm

On a list of iconic views onthe planet, the skyline ofNewYork from the obser-vation deck of theRockefeller Center wouldcertainly figure in most

top tens. Fully refurbished, it looks outfrom the 70th floor, 360 degrees across thecity that never snoozes, giving you anhawk’s eye view (more of which later) ofthe city’s many attractions, from the Empire

State Building to Chinatown and out acrossto Ellis Island.

Indeed, a visit to the massive bronzeStatue of Liberty – take the Circle Line ferryfrom Battery Park, the ticket includes a visitto Ellis Island – is another iconic trip. Andwhen you start adding them all up, you’llactually find dozens of iconic must-dos andmust-sees. Trying to fit them all into onevisit is impossible, but because it’s actuallyvery easy to get around NewYork, whether

Madabout you

NewYork is the absolutedefinition of bright lights, bigcity. But there’s lots more to itthan a series of iconic views,says Alex Johnson. Take the

hawks for instance…

Escape to…

23The Travel & Leisure Magazine

� Top of the Rock

BartBarlow

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