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BMW Camshaft Timingand Vanos Unit Installation
Wayne R. DempseyDifficulty Level: 6
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level oneRebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten
This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with
Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. Thebook contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything fromperformance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-colorglossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book isrequired reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released inAugust 2006, and is available for ordering now. SeeThe Official Book Websitefor more details.
Need to buy parts for this project?Click here to order!This technical article is designed to be used in conjunction with other ones in our
Technical Library. If you replace your head gasket, you will need to retime yourcamshafts and re-install the Vanos unit. For the purpose of instruction here, we'llassume that you have your cylinder head installed on the engine block, thecrankshaft is locked at Top Dead Center (TDC), and your two camshafts arelocked using the BMW camshaft locking tool. This article will guide you through
the process of retiming your camshafts, and re-installing the Vanos variablecamshaft timing unit.This article departs from our normal format of text and words mingled together.
Since there are so many photos associated with this article, I have arranged
them in assembly order with captions for each. Read through each caption as astep in the assembly process.
Figure 1
We start the procedure by making sure that the engine is at Top Dead Center(TDC). At this point, the TDC pin is installed into the locking position, and isholding the flywheel steady (see Head Gasket Replacement article for moredetails). The camshafts are locked in place using the camshaft locking tool. Thiswill allow us to properly align and time the camshafts and the Vanos unit.
Figure 2
Shown here is the sprocket for the exhaust camshaft. Prior to mounting it onyour engine, verify that the teeth of the gear are not worn or damaged. Alsoinspect the inner mounting slots to see if there is any wear from being loose at
one time.
Figure 3
Install the sprocket onto the exhaust camshaft. Make sure that the mountingholes located on the camshaft flange are visible through the slots in thesprocket, and also make sure that the holes are biased towards the left side ofthe slots, as is shown by the red arrow. It may require some maneuvering to get
the sprocket into it's proper position. Normally, it takes multiple attempts to getit to look exactly like the photo on the left.
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Figure 4
Turn your attention now to the lower chain tensioner, which is located on thelower part of the block, on the right side of the car. We will be removing thistensioner and replacing it with a tensioner tool, which will keep the chain tightwhile we time the cams.
Figure 5
Here is the tensioner tool, which we use in place of the spring-loaded tensioner
when timing the camshafts. It's important to use this tool, and not to rely solelyon the spring-loaded tensioner - it does not provide enough tension when thecar is sitting to accurate time the camshafts. Use the tool, and get the accuratereading that your engine deserves.
Figure 6
Remove the tensioner by placing a socket on the end piece of the tensioner. Donot remove the tensioner block which is attached to the housing (notnecessary). When the tensioner comes out, it is spring loaded, so be preparedfor it to pop out when you release the tension with your socket and driver.
Figure 7
Here is the tensioner assembly when you remove it. The assembly consists of aplunger, spring, cap, and sealing ring.
Figure 8
Replace the tensioner with the proper tensioning tool. For now, simply tighten
the tool so that it is hand tight - we don't need or want the chain tension to besuper-tight right now.
Figure 9
With the left sprocket installed, install the center plastic chain guide and torquedown the long bolts that hold it in place. Don't over torque (10 Nm) - the firsttime I did this, the long bolt was brittle and broke off in the cylinder head. I hadto take the assembly back apart, fish out the bolt, and then special order a newone (3 days wait).
Figure 10
With the guide in place, reinstall the top chain tensioner. These tensionerssometimes fail, but there really isn't a good method for testing them. I
recommend replacement if your engine has at least 80,000 miles on it or so. Alittle bit of preventative maintenance can go a long way here. Tighten the boltsdown to 20 Nm.
Figure 11
This photo shows the tensioner installed and ready to go. Inspect the rampbefore you install it to see if there is any significant wear or obviousdeformations. The ramp should still be held in place using the two small hexkeys that you inserted when you removed it. Do not release the tensioner yet.
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Figure 12
Place the camshaft sensor cap onto the intake camshaft. This metal cap servesto trigger the camshaft position sensor, and lets the engine know whether theengine is on an intake or exhaust stroke of it's 4-cycle process. The camshaftposition sensor fits into the hole on the right side of this photo (you can makeout the small green o-ring to the lower right).
Figure 13
Shown here are the studs for the thrust washer and sprocket. These studs look
very similar to the ones that mount the valve cover to the head - don't mix them
up. Compare yours carefully to the ones in the photo to make sure that youhave the right studs. It is also important to keep in mind that there are twotypes of Vanos units (early/late). The early units do not have a plate spring,whereas the later ones do. The plate spring fits over the intake camshaft thrustwasher, and requires slightly longer studs. This particular car does not have thespring plate.
Figure 14
Install the thrust washer onto the intake camshaft. Use the special studs, andinstall it in the same configuration in which it was removed. In other words, inthis photo, you can see the oil stain from the slots that surround the studs.Install this side facing you when you reinstall this thrust washer (copy thephoto). Torque the studs to 20 Nm.
Figure 15
Now, take the two intake sprockets and chain and attach it to the assembly. Seethe photo for the proper orientation of the two sprockets. The exhaust sprocket
should have it's cup facing outwards, and the intake sprocket should have its cupfacing inwards. Verify that both sprockets are correctly mounted flush to thesurfaces behind them. The intake sprocket is installed with the flat side facingyou (the Vanos unit). The collar of the intake sprocket faces and points to thecamshaft. Align the two sprockets and the chain so that the slots are centeredon both sprockets (see arrows).
Figure 16
Here's another view of the intake Vanos sprocket, correctly mounted flush
against the thrust washer behind it. Soak all of the sprockets, gears and chainsin clean motor oil before you install them - these are sliding parts that needlubrication.
Figure 17
Now, install the thrust washer onto the intake camshaft and tighten the nutsdown. It's okay to reuse the old nuts. If you have the Vanos unit with a springplate, then install it first, before the thrust washer (not shown). Tighten the nuts
down to 10Nm. IMPORTANT: With the nuts tight, the inside sprocket should befree to rotate back and forth about 20 degrees, along with the chain. When Iassembled this engine, I found that it could not. Some of the bolts and flangeswere worn, and I had to order new ones. The Vanos unit requires that this"sandwich" of parts be able to rotate smoothly. Verify this prior to proceding.
Figure 18
Install the screws onto the exhaust camshaft. Place them onto the sprocket andtighten them only HAND TIGHT. We will be making adjustments later on, andthese bolts only need to be in place to hold the exhaust camshaft in its proper
position.NOTE: From this point on, these are the instructions that you will want to lookat if you are simply replacing the Vanos unit.
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Figure 20
Here is what your engine should look like now. You have the new camshaftsinstalled, you have the chain and sprockets properly setup, and we're ready toinstall the Vanos unit.
Figure 21
Shown here is the Vanos unit. It consists of a solenoid, and a hydraulic gear that
is activated when oil pressure is released into the unit by the solenoid. It's arather simple device. The gear on the unit is pushed out by oil pressure and as itmoves outward, it rotates the small sliding camshafts sprockets, thus advancingthe camshaft timing.
Figure 22
Test the Vanos unit by pulling out the gear plunger all the way. You should beable to simply pull on it with your hand, and it should extend from the housing(see arrow). If the unit still has oil in it at this time, it will make a gurgling noiseor two. Push the plunger back into the unit when you are finished.
Figure 23
The BMW service manuals recommend that you place some silicone sealantaround the left and right mounting points (alignment pins) for the front Vanosseal. This photo shows the right side (looking at the engine from the front).Repeat for the left side alignment pin.
Figure 24
Install a new seal onto the front of the cylinder head (indicated by the arrow).The seal should be made of a thin metal.
Figure 25
Now comes the tricky part. Rotate the front sprocket/chain assembly all the wayclockwise to the right (towards where the air cleaner sits). With the plunger ofthe Vanos unit pushed all the way back into its housing (important), place theVanos unit on the cylinder head.
Figure 26
The Vanos unit has inside gears that need to mesh with the ones on the sprocket(see arrow). When you push the Vanos unit onto the cylinder head, it will notwant to easily mesh with the gears on the sprocket. Important: thesprocket/chain assembly should still be rotated as far clockwise as possible.
Figure 27
With your fingers, rotate the spline shaft on the Vanos unit, until you can engageone spline of the sprocket. Pushing forward on the Vanos unit, carefully rotate
the sprocket/chain assembly counter-clockwise. As you do this, the Vanos unitshould slide in towards the cylinder head. Always ensure that the FIRST suitabletooth combination between the sprocket and the Vanos unit engages.
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Figure 28
Reinstall the main mounting bolt and the engine lift ring.
Figure 29
After tightening down the Vanos housing, and clean up any squeeze-out fromthe silicone that you used to help seal the unit to the cylinder head.
Figure 19
With the sprockets properly installed, now pull out the retaining pins and reapplytension to the chain. The tensioner should spring back with some force and tightthe chain quickly. If it appears sluggish, or does not spring back, then replacethe tensioner before continuing.
Figure 32
Now, tighten down the tensioner tool to 1.3 Nm. This is such an incredibly smallamount, that you can simply use a hand-wheel ratchet to tighten the chain very
tight. You want to remove all slack in the chain prior to tightening down theexhaust sprocket. Use of the regular spring-loaded tensioner does not placeenough tension on the chain to correctly tighten the sprocket.
Figure 30
With the tensioner tool still in place, tighten down the four nuts on the exhaustsprocket (15 Nm). Reinstall the plugs on the outside of the Vanos cover.
Figure 34
Remove your tensioner tool, and replace it with the real tensioner. Make surethat the slot in the end of the tensioner is correctly aligned with the ramp on theinside of the engine. If you make this mistake, it will cause the chain to rattlefiercely and may cause damage to your engine.
Figure 35
Remove the camshaft holding tool from the rear of the engine. Also remove theflywheel locking tool.
Figure 36
You're finished! Your Vanos unit should be installed, the camshafts will be timed
properly, and all you have left to do is: Connect Vanos oil line Connect Vanos electrical control line Install valve cover with new seal Reinstall
[click to enlarge] One of the more common oil leaks on BMW engines is thelarge, long valve cover gasket. In general, it's pretty easy to
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com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/E36-Spark-Plugs.htmhttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-valve-cover/E36-Valve-Cover.htm7/29/2019 BMW Camshaft Timing
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Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8
remove and replace this gasket. This article goes over indetail the procedure to replace the valve cover gasket. Beginby prepping the car. The only thing that you really need to dois to make sure that the car is cold. If you try to remove or
install spark plugs in a hot car, then you may encounterproblems with the spark plugs gumming up or damaging therelatively delicate threads in the aluminum cylinder head.Just make sure that the car is cold, or at the bare minimum,only slightly warm to the touch.Let's talk about the six cylinder cars first. The first step is toremove the top plastic covers from the engine. These serveno mechanical purpose - they are there only for decoration
and to prevent dust and debris from getting into the recessesof the engine. On the six cylinder cars, there are two covers,a long thin one on the top of the car, and a wider onetowards the left. Speaking of left, for the purpose of this
particular tech article, I will refer to the left side of theengine as being on the left as you are standing in front of thecar looking at the engine. The right side would, of course, beopposite to that. For reference, the windshield washer bottle
would then be on the left, and the air filter would be on theright.On the two plastic covers, there will be two small, snap-inplugs on the top. Carefully remove these plugs (don't drop
them into the engine) with a small screwdriver, prying themup as you grab them (Figure 1). Underneath you will find anut that holds the cover onto the top of the engine (Figure2). Remove the four nuts on these two covers, and they
should both simply slide up out of the way.Figure 3showsthe engine with the center cover removed.Underneath the left cover, you will see the six spark plugcoils that sit on top of each of the plugs (Figure 4). You need
to remove each of these carefully, in order to gain access tothe plugs. Using a screwdriver, release each connector fromeach coil. There is a metal retaining ring on the rear of eachone that fastens it to the coil (Figure 5). Once you lift up on
the retaining clip, then the connector should simply slide outof the coil. Carefully remove all of the connectors from eachcoil (Figure 6), taking care not to bend the wire harness toomuch. These wires are stiff, and generally don't take well tobeing bent in multiple directions. Just be gentle with them.To assist with your maneuvering of the wires, detach thecenter clip that holds the wires that come from the centerchannel. This clip is shown inFigure 7. Gently place the wires
off to the side and out of the way, without bending themterribly.With the wires detached and placed slightly out of the way,you can now remove each of the six coils. Each coil isfastened to the valve cover using two screws. On two of the
coils, there are two small ground straps that connect the coilto the stud on the cylinder head. Take note of these groundstraps - they must be installed properly when you arefinished, otherwise your car may encounter problems. Thesetwo ground straps are shown marked by the greens arrow in
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arts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic8.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic7.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic6.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic19.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic2.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic3.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic1.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic21.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic8.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic7.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic6.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic19.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic2.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic3.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic1.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic21.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic8.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic7.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic6.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic19.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic2.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic3.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic1.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic8.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic7.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic6.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic19.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic2.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic3.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic3.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic1.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic3.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic1.jpg7/29/2019 BMW Camshaft Timing
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Figure 9
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 8andFigure 9(coil already removed in this photo).Remove each of the two nuts that hold each coil to the valvecover. At this point, the coil should be able to be easily pulledright off of the engine (Figure 10). The coil has a small coilpack on one end, and a spring-loaded spark plug connector
on the opposite end. Simply remove the coil/plug assemblyand place it off to the side. All of the coils are the same, so itdoesn't matter which cylinder bank it came off of - unless
you are specifically trying to troubleshoot a bad coil faultcode that was displayed by the main computer.With the coils removed, you can now remove the top plasticcover on the wire harness box that straddles the intakemanifold and the valve cover (Figure 11). The lid on this box
simply snaps off. With it removed, you can then reach in sothat you can carefully pull the wire harnesses out of the way(Figure 12). At this point, you can start removing the nutsthat hold on the valve cover. Take careful note of which ones
have ground straps attached (Figure 13), and make sure thatyou record where they are located so that you can put them
back into their proper place when you're reassembling thevalve cover.Some of the nuts may be difficult to reach, in particular the
one located all the way at the rear of the enginecompartment underneath the windshield wipers (Figure 14).A small ratchet comes in handy here. When you have
removed all of the nuts (there should be 15 of them), take arubber mallet and tap the side of the valve cover to loosen itoff of its gasket (Figure 15). You should then be able toremove the valve cover.Inspect the valve cover when it comes off. In particular, becareful with the baffle and seal on the inside (Figure 16). Thisseal does not appear to be available as a separate part (itcomes with the valve cover). The good news is that it doesn'treally do much - it just seals an air baffle to the valve cover.
Also, when you remove the valve cover, make sure that youdon't loose any of the rubber grommets (Figure 17), or flatwashers that hold them in.If you take your valve cover into your machine shop to besand blasted, make sure that you assemble all of the bits andpieces back together in their proper order. Especially
important are the rubber studs that hold on the top plasticcovers (Figure 18), as well as the baffle on the inside of thecover (Figure 16).Prep both the surface of the cylinder head and the valvecover for the new seal by carefully cleaning all remnants ofthe old seal off of all of the mating surfaces. Be careful not toscratch any surfaces, and also be careful not to drop bits ofpieces of the gasket into your engine.
The BMW factory manuals recommend adding some sealantto some leak-prone sections of the cylinder head. I chose to
use Permatex High-Temp RTV, and it worked very well forsealing these areas. Specifically, the factory recommends
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BMW Camshaft Timing
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Figure 17
Figure 18
Figure 19
Figure 20
Figure 21
Figure 22
Figure 23
Figure 24
adding sealant at the interface where the VANOS unit or frontmounting timing chain cover meet (Figure 19andFigure 20).They also recommend a small bit of sealant at the rear of thecover (Figure 21).With the sealant attached, simply place the new gasket on
the cylinder head (Figure 22). Place the two inner gaskets onthe spark plugs holes in center of the head (Figure 23).These are the gaskets that leak oil into the spark plug holes
(see thePelican Parts Technical Article on Replacing YourSpark Plugs). Finally, bolt down the cover, and reattach alloff the nuts on the cover, making sure that you replace therubber washers/bumpers under each one. Using a torque
wrench, tighten the nuts down to 89 in-lb (10 Nm).Figure 24shows the finished product.If you haven't replaced your spark plugs, now is a good timeto do it. See thespark plug replacement articlefor moredetails. Reinstall the coils, reattach the wire harness, andreplace the top plastic covers.Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all. Ifyou would like to see more technical articles like this one,please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your partsneeds. If you like what you see here, then please visit our
online BMW catalogand help support the collection andcreating of new and informative technical articles like thisone. Your continued support directly affects the expansion
and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.As always, if you have any questions or comments about thishelpful article, pleasedrop us a line.
[click to enlarge] One basic tune-up procedure for
just about any
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BMW Camshaft Timing
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Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8
car on the road isthe replacementof your sparkplugs and spark
plug wires(whereapplicable). Onthe BMW E36 six-cylinder engines,
BMW haseliminated the
use of spark plugwires byintegrating six
small spark plugcoils that sit ontop of each sparkplug. While this
configurationmay be a bitmore expensivethan the typicalsingle coil, singlecapacitivedischarge box
configuration, itmakes the car'signition systemmore reliable by
removing acomponent thatconstantly wearsout and fails(spark plug
wires). It's apretty cool setup,
not commonlyfound on oldercars. Asmanufacturing
components hasbecomeincreasinglyinexpensive,ignition setupslike these have
become morecommon.I recommendreplacing yourspark plugs every10,000 miles, or
about once ayear. In reality,you can probablygo longer thanthat, however,
you never reallyquite know how
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Figure 9
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
long the plugsare going to last,or you mayforget to do it if
you don't setup ayearly schedule.Needless to say,replacing yourspark plugs is
one of the easiesttasks to do on
your BMW -provided youhave the proper
information,which I willprovide here.Begin byprepping the car.The only thing
that you reallyneed to do is tomake sure that
the car is cold. Ifyou try toremove or install
spark plugs in ahot car, then youmay encounterproblems with
the spark plugsgumming up ordamaging therelatively delicate
threads in thealuminumcylinder head.
Just make surethat the car iscold, or at thebare minimum,
only slightlywarm to thetouch.Let's talk aboutthe six cylindercars first. Thefirst step is toremove the top
plastic coversfrom the engine.These serve nomechanical
purpose - theyare there only fordecoration and to
prevent dust anddebris from
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Figure 17
Figure 18
Figure 19
Figure 20
Figure 21
Figure 22
Figure 23
Figure 24
getting into therecesses of theengine. On thesix cylinder cars,
there are twocovers, a longthin one on thetop of the car,and a wider one
towards the left.Speaking of left,
for the purposeof this particulartech article, I will
refer to the leftside of the engineas being on theleft as you are
standing in frontof the car lookingat the engine.The right sidewould, of course,be opposite tothat. For
reference, thewindshieldwasher bottlewould then be on
the left, and theair filter would beon the right.On the twoplastic covers,
there will be twosmall, snap-inplugs on the top.
Carefully removethese plugs(don't drop theminto the engine)
with a smallscrewdriver,prying them upas you grab them
(Figure 1).Underneath youwill find a nut
that holds thecover onto thetop of the engine(Figure 2).
Remove the fournuts on thesetwo covers, andthey should bothsimply slide up
out of the way.Figure 3shows
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36-Spark-Plugs/pic17.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic2.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic3.jpghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/pic1.jpg7/29/2019 BMW Camshaft Timing
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the engine withthe center coverremoved.Underneath theleft cover, you
will see the sixspark plug coilsthat sit on top of
each of the plugs(Figure 4). Youneed to removeeach of these
carefully, in orderto gain access tothe plugs. Usinga screwdriver,
release eachconnector fromeach coil. Thereis a metal
retaining ring onthe rear of eachone that fastens
it to the coil(Figure 5). Onceyou lift up on the
retaining clip,then theconnector shouldsimply slide out
of the coil.Carefully removeall of theconnectors from
each coil (Figure6), taking carenot to bend the
wire harness toomuch. Thesewires are stiff,and generally
don't take well tobeing bent inmultipledirections. Just
be gentle withthem.To assist withyour
maneuvering ofthe wires, detachthe center clipthat holds the
wires that comefrom the centerchannel. This clip
is shown inFigure 7. Gently
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place the wiresoff to the sideand out of theway, without
bending themterribly.With the wiresdetached and
placed slightlyout of the way,you can nowremove each of
the six coils.Each coil isfastened to thevalve cover using
two screws. Ontwo of the coils,there are twosmall ground
straps thatconnect the coilto the stud on
the cylinderhead. Take noteof these ground
straps - theymust be installedproperly whenyou are finished,
otherwise yourcar mayencounterproblems. These
two groundstraps are shownmarked by the
greens arrow inFigure 8andFigure 9(coilalready removedin this photo).Remove each ofthe two nuts that
hold each coil tothe valve cover.At this point, thecoil should beable to be easily
pulled right off ofthe engine(Figure 10). Thecoil has a small
coil pack on oneend, and aspring-loaded
spark plugconnector on the
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opposite end.Simply removethe coil/plugassembly and
place it off to theside. All of thecoils are thesame, so itdoesn't matter
which cylinderbank it came off
of - unless youare specificallytrying to
troubleshoot abad coil faultcode that wasdisplayed by themain computer.With the coil
removed, youshould be able tolook down the
hole and see thespark plug hidingin there.Figure
11shows whatthe top of anormal lookingspark plug looks
like. However, asyou remove theplugs, you maydiscover
somethingpeculiar. The waythat the ignition
system isdesigned onthese BMWs,there is the
opportunity forthe spark plugholes tocompletely fill up
with oil, if youhave a leaky sealon your valve
cover. When youpull out the sparkplug connector /coil combo, you
may find that it iscompletelysubmerged inengine oil, asshown inFigure
12andFigure 13.Looking down the
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hole, you maynot even be ableto see the sparkplug because the
entire hole isfilled up with oil(Figure 14andFigure 15). Whilecommon sense
says that this isnot a good thing,
the reality is thatthis is actuallyquite common,
and doesn't seemto affect theperformance ofthe car one bit. If
you do find thisoil in your sparkplug holes, Iwould suggestthat you go onestep further andreplace the valve
cover gasket.This replacementprocedure is verysimple, once you
have the coilsremoved, andshould only takeyou about 20minutes more,
providing youhave the actual
gasket on hand.If you find oil inyour spark plugholes, then you
should definitelyreplace thegasket.If you find thatyou have oil in
your spark plugholes, I suggestthat you take
some papertowels andattempt to soakup as much of
the oil aspossible, beforeremoving thespark plug. If youdon't get rid of
the excess oil,then it will leak
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into the cylinderhead through thespark plug holewhen you remove
the spark plug.This will causeyour car to runsooty when youfirst start it up,
and it may evenfoul your brand
new spark plugsthat you justinstalled!Spark plugremoval is easy -
you just need theright spark plugwrench. I haveone that I love -
it's a spark plugsocket with arubber insert that
catches the plug.In addition, it hasa built-in swivel
on theattachment end.This is especiallyuseful when
trying to removeplugs in hard-to-reach places, asthey are always
located onPorsche engines(BMW engines
aren't really thatbad with respectto spark plugaccess).Using a breakerbar, grip the plugand turn it
counter-clockwiseuntil it is loose.Then pull outyour tool andgrab the plug.
When the plugcomes out, youmay want to takea close look at it.
The spark plug isreally the bestway to visually
see what isgoing on inside
7/29/2019 BMW Camshaft Timing
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your combustionchamber. Youne
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