Buta to Paisley An ongoing Journey - Laureate Legal Terms and... · Paisley – A motif- *...

7/28/2014

PAISLEY

“A JOURNEY- FROM AGES ACROSS BORDERS”

Pavni Gupta

Associate Professor

Pearl Academy, Delhi, India

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1 Pearl Academy, Delhi

Content:

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1 Background of the Study 2-3

2 Introduction of Paisley 4-9

3 Inspiration of the research 10-12

4 Inception of Paisley • Introduction and History • Development of the motif • Journey of Paisley • Change with demand • Evidence of the motif

5 Paisley’s temporary demise 48-52

6 The design values of paisleys and its widespread universal acceptance- Visual Journey

7 Paisley the Inspirational source for designers- Visual Journey 74-107

8 Views about the motif 108-112

9 Wrapping up 113-115

10 Bibliography 116

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Background …..

• The session will portray the journey of a “Paisley – A motif” from ages across borders. This paper is an effort towards emphasizing the design value of Butta or Paisley.

• The study aims to highlight the visual appeal of Indian butta and its demand in international market. Paisley after being in vogue for centuries has still not completed the journey; in fact designers are looking forward for more experimentation for providing further scope.

• The paisley is globally experimented and explored to suit each and every product from garments to home furnishing to accessories. The session will visually demonstrate some experimentation done in this area.

What is Paisley…..

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Paisley – A motif-

* Intensively used in Indian Traditional Embroideries like Kashmir, Chikankari etc.

* Inspired by nature, fruits and dry fruits

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Zalakdozi embroidered cushion cover

Inspired by Mango Shape

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Sojni Embroidery silk kurta

Inspired by Almond shape

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Embroidered Jaal with buteh Inspired by pine and palm tree leaf

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Embroidered buteh

Inspired by Walnut shape

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Inspiration of the research……

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“The Paisley is an important part of Indian Traditional Craft and culture. It has gone

through numerous changes and formation to be the part of race. The designers are still

using the motif worldwide.”

by Ms. Jasleen Dhameja, a well known curator of Indian textiles and

author of renowned books, (cited on 5th June 2011 in a conference on Traditional Textiles of India at Delhi)

• The words by Ms. Jasleen Dhameja developed the curiosity to know more and more about Paisley. I started investigating and reading the history and found the visual changes of the motif across ages and countries.

• The presentation also talk about the intensive use of paisley by the designers worldwide.

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Inception of Paisley……

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• Boteh is a Persian word meaning ‘bush’, ‘shrub' or ‘flower bud’.

• In Kashmir the name used to describe this motif is buta or buti.

Introduction and History…….

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• According to the historians and researchers –

Sultan Zein-al- Aabedin brought the buta motif

from Iran to India in Kashmir around 15th Century- staring point of journey of buta

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Development of the motif:

• The earliest design on Kashmir shawls- 16th to 18th century

• A single flowering plant

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• This design gradually developed into an upright spray of flowers

• By around 1800 became the stylized cone-shaped motif known as the boteh, which we now tend to call the Paisley pine.

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The shape of the motif changed over the decades, from a small squat cone to a very elongated

curve.

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Some of the evidences from Victoria and Albert Museum of development

of butta are :

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According to John Irwin former curator of Indian Collection at Victoria

and Albert Museum

“The floral butta motif became harder and formally stylized in the mid-18th century, and

westerners eventually dubbed the design "cone" or "pine". Paisley later became part

of the vocabulary when wool shawls crafted in Paisley, Scotland (close copies of Kashmir

patterns) took off.”

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Journey of Buta…..

• The examples of the work travelled to Britain by the East India Company in the

mid 18th century.

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• Shawls -quickly

became the vogue

• But were in short supply and very expensive.

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Mother and Two Children by A E Chalon, c. 1812. (Courtesey of

the Geoffrey Museum)

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Imitated by British textile manufacturers who sold them for a tenth of the price.

The birth of Paisley

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• The Indian butta motif was redeveloped to go with the European taste.

The result was dramatic.

• Imitated Indian shawls became so popular that the weaving centers in Edinburgh, Norwich and Paisley were swamped with orders.

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• The word ‘paisley’ become famous as the name of the teardrop shape pattern.

• It is possibly less well known as the name of a town in Scotland, located about 11 miles from Glasgow.

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• During the early 19th century, Paisley (Scotland) became famous for its Paisley Shawls

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Machine-Woven Wool Shawls

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For seventy years the patterned shawls remained fashionable, and

the term ‘paisley’ became renowned throughout the world.

• Rich, abstract, curvilinear patterns from Mughal Art, have continued

7/28/2014 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy of Fashion, Delhi 37 37 Pearl Academy, Delhi

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By 1860, Paisley could produce shawls with fifteen colors

It was still only a quarter of the colors in the multi-color paisleys then still being imported from

Kashmir

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Change with demand……

• In later centuries paisley pattern was being printed, rather than woven

• Being able to purchase printed paisley rather than woven paisley brought the price of the costly pattern down and added to its popularity.

• The places of manufacture for printed paisley were Britain and France.

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Printed Shawl on wool base with diamond twill

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Printed shawl on silk with geometric twist

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Printing silk stole

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• The Industrial Revolution put the price of woven shawls within reach of every English lady.

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• Printed Butta became so popular that European manufacturers stopped weaving altogether, started using copper rolls to print the designs on a cotton plain weave.

• Moving towards the wider world of patterned fabrics, paisley took its first steps into the mass market.

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• Ironically, it proved to be successful as a

printed design that, by the later 19th century, even Indian Textile producers had taken up the habit of printing paisley designs on cotton.

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Evidence of the motif……

• Paisley was heavily identified with psychedelic style and the interest in Indian spirituality and culture brought about by The Beatles to India in 1968.

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• Also, Fender Guitars made a Pink Paisley version of their Telecaster guitar, by sticking paisley wallpaper onto the

guitar bodies.

At the 2010 Winter Olympics, Azerbaijan's team sported colorful paisley trousers.

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PAISLEY’S TEMPORARY DEMISE…….

The paisley shawl showed a decline in early 1870’s because of various reasons:

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One of which is that by 1870 a woven Jacquard shawl could be bought for £1.

Like any other luxury good, once the shawls

were inexpensive enough that every

woman could afford to own at least one; no one wanted to wear

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• The introduction of the “bustle” in the late 1860s also caused paisley’s decline.

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• Only in the classic case of fashion trickle-down, upper-class ladies draped themselves with Kashmir shawls precisely to reach to the market status.

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• In Britain the paisley pattern represented in Celtic art; declined in Europe under the influence of the Roman Empire.

• However in India the motif continued to flourish in many different forms. It was first used on shawls in Kashmir.

• Now it is all over the world………

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THE DESIGN VALUES OF PAISLEYS AND ITS WIDESPREAD UNIVERSAL

ACCEPTANCE

The paisley is globally experimented and explored to suit each and every product from garments to home furnishing to accessories. Few visual examples are given in the following slides.

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Embroidered buties.

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Paisley printed bags

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Book Lockets with Paisley Design

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Traditional nose ring adorn with buta design

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Bridal wedding gloves with paisley motif

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Lee Hiller Designs-Paisley Motif - Mouse Pads from London.

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Jim Miner Tattoo -widely using Indian motifs.

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• Paisley pattern is also making its space in food products like cake decoration.

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Paisley increase the

appetite

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• The men’s clothing also shows a

wide use of the Buta motif.

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The pattern is quite famous for printing and especially for silk

stoles and scarf's.

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Paisley in garments

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Henna designs with paisley motifs are globally in vogue.

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Paisley is an important part of men’s clothing so one of the example of accessories is Cufflinks

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THE MOTIF ALSO INSPIRED MANY NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL

DESIGNERS They are experimenting with the motif to give

it a new dimension and exploring the hidden uniqueness which is yet to surface in its prime form.

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The paisley has evolved with time and became an integral and important part of interior designing and home furnishing.

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• Dark paisley- by Lars Contzen, a

German designer

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Paisley Pattern Mini Buffet from IMAX, an everything furniture store from US.

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Beaded and

sequined pillow with paisley motif in silk dupion by the designer Trish Mahtani at Rang Home Décor, South England.

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Home linen collection by Ludmila Crigan a well known textile

designer from US.

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Laura Olivia’s home and lifestyle collection

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Margo , a rug by Thomas O’Brien is hand woven in Nepal of wool and silk

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Shower curtain by John

Robshaw Textiles; New York working mostly with Indian fabrics

and motifs

http://www.johnrobshaw.com/

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Paisley print upholstery by

Lamshop; Third Avenue, New York

http://shoplamshop.c

om./LAMSHOP/Welcome.html

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Kerala Paisley wallpaper by

Schumacher, Interior design firm, New York.

http://www.fschumach

er.com/

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Paisley screen from Belle

Escape; famous for Vintage style furniture and furnishing

http://www.belleescape.com/

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The Vintage Maroon Dot with Tiny Paisley Designs Tie from

Pierre Cardin

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ETRO the brand in men’s wear from Milano is known in the fashion industry as the king of paisley.

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Paisley shirts by ETRO

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• ETRO’s men’s swim trunks

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Foot ware designed as the part of Fifthavenue spring collection used paisley as the main motif.

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• Preeti S Kapoor’s ethnic suits

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Women’s garments with Paisley Design from ZARA apparel

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Emanuel Ungaro paisley jacket

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The examples of beautifully woven and embroidered

paisley by Abaya Collection from Dubai.

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Traditional Sherwani’s from Dewan Sahib, India

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Murphy dress by

Stella McCartney from summer 2012, Online

shopping

http://www.stellamccartney.com/default/

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Alchemilla cotton-polyester by

ETRO for Clarence House

http://www.clare

ncehouse.com

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Elegant use of the motif by Anamika Khanna at Delhi Couture Week 2010

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Ritu Kumar’s ethnic women wear 7/28/2014 Pearl Academy of Fashion, Delhi 102 102 Pearl Academy, Delhi

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Traditional buta design used in a contemporary way by Sabyasachi Mukherjee, at Delhi Couture Week

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Shyamal & Bhumika Fall Collection 104 Pearl Academy, Delhi

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Dinner plate by French Bull based on theme RAJ; online store – melamine designers

http://www.frenchbull.com/our_store/dinner-plates/Raj-Dinner-Plate

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Printed Paisley Mugs by Rachael Ray

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Paisley wastepaper

basket by Marye-Kelley

Home décor, Houston, TX

http://www.marye-kelley.com/

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Boysenberry umbrela by Vera Bradley; Beach Collection.

http://www.verabradley.com

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VIEWS ABOUT THE MOTIF……….

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Trend Alert at Home: Paisley; from Elledecor

March 2012 By Amy Preiser

“I bought this blouse in New York City —the paisley is a great take on the pattern play that I'm loving in home decor prints now, and these three colors make a perfect combination!”

—Designer Jenn Feldman a Los-Angeles based Interior Decorator

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“I love a global feel in my home, so the block-print look of these paisley panels from Z Gallerie fits my living room perfectly. And when I’m on the go, I have my paisley scarf—it always makes me feel chic.”

—Designer Kim Myles, the CEO of an

interior design firm

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“Oversized paisley print on my new couch feels feminine and I loved it against my charcoal walls”

—Neha Gandhi, Deputy Editor of Refinery 29 (online fashion magazine)

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“The paisley print is fun, colourful and just says "party“. No one can be a wallflower when wearing paisley.”

—Brie Dyas, Editor of Stylelist

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Wrapping up…….

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• Paisley -A point of inspiration- A trend is based on what usually gains acceptance and sells

• Paisley’s connection with the design industry has enhanced general enthusiasm for the motif.

• The whole range of products available with paisleys is indeed omnipresent

• The delicate form of the motif has taken its stand in every products

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Paisley or buta after being in vogue for centuries has still not completed the journey; in fact designers are looking forward for more experimentation for

providing further scope.

Bibliography:

• Irwin, J. (1973). The Kashmir Shawl. 2nd edition Victoria and Albert Museum.

• Irwin, J. (1980). Shawls: A Study in Indo-European Influences. H.M. stationary office London (reprint of 1955), page- 32-60

• Frank. A. (1986) The Kashmir Shawl. The Antique Collectors Club Ltd , England

• Dhamija. J. (Ed.), Asian Embroideries. D.K. Agencies (P) Ltd. First Published 2004, Craft Council of India

• Levi. S.M. (1987). The cashmere Shawls. Dryad Press Ltd 1987. Pages- 20-42

• David. R. (1993), Pictorial History of Paisley Publisher: Alloway Publishing Ltd

• Mehta J. R. (1970). Paisley Design- Masterpiece of Indian Textiles. Calico Museum P.94.

• Gregory. M. (1989). Paisley Designs. Dover Pictorial Archive, Publication Date: April 1, 1989

• Skinner. T. (1989), Paisley: A Visual Survey of Pattern and Color published by Gibbs Smith

• Kashmir to Paisley: The Metropolitan Museum of Artis collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve, and extend access to The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. Online Link http://www.jstor.org/

• Andrews, M. (1986). Beyond the Fringe, Shawls of Paisley Design. Victoriana Magazine. Online link http://www.victoriana.com/library/paisley/shawl.html

• Azzarito. A. Past and Present Paisley. Retrieved on 20th May 2014 from blog Design Sponge. The official website is http://www.designsponge.com/2010/04/past-present-paisley-part-1

• Andrews, M. (1979). Kashmir and shawls of paisley design. Retrieved from the blog http://www.meg-andrews.com/articles/article.php

• Paisley pattern collection at paisley museum. Retrieved on 21s t May 2014 from http://www.paisley.org.uk/paisley-history/paisley-pattern/

• All visuals used in the paper have been sourced from the mentioned websites.

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Thank you

For any query contact at:

pavni.gupta@pearlacademy.com

Buta to Paisley An ongoing Journey - Laureate Legal Terms and... · Paisley – A motif- *...

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