Embroideries of Gujarat

Presented by:KrishnanjaliChandanRaginiSurbhi

EmbroideriesOf Gujarat

INTRODUCTION

From the early civilizations, Gujarat is home to handicraft traditions.

Gujarat’s contemporary indigenous dress is a cultural manifestation that has evolved over centuries and has remained a principal mark of identity and social cohesion.

In Gujarat it is customary for a bride to have exquisite hand embroidered ghagras, odhnis, animal covers, bags, quilts and house decorations as part of her trousseau.

KUTCH'S WORLD RENOWNED WORK

The best pick up point for ethnic embroidery in Gujarat is Kutch, which was once a part of the trade route between Central Asia and the Far East.

As in all desert and semi-desert regions, life here is varied, there is little to celebrate but for the women of Kutch who weave a magical world of colour and celebrate everyday life.

Elements and traces of Baluch or Sindhi embroidery merging with those of the Kutch are well established.

At a very early age the girls acquire the embroidery skills, they prepare their own wedding garments. These exclusively created embroidered works are sent to the in-laws for closer examination, which is one of the important criteria for deciding matrimonial alliances.

Mostly made by the Kanbis (the farm cultivators) and by the Ahirs (cowherds, a pastoral tribe) and the Moochis (the shoe-makers) too.

Toran, a doorway decoration with hanging flaps, Pachhitpatis (embroidered frieze), Chaklas (embroidered square pieces), Bhitiya, an impressive wall hanging, are most common embroidered items.

Abhala (mirror inset embroidery) has now become a part of the ethnic chic fashion world, where small mirror discs are fixed with closely worked silken thread. Usually the mirror work is done on a dark background with motifs like flowers, creepers, petals, etc.

Its most striking quality is the sense of depth imbued into the surface as though the forms were carved out of a solid substance, instead of being stitched on.

This particular type of embroidery is also known as 'Moochidd-Bharat'  or ‘Ahir-Bharat'.

The chain is the basic stitch, & use of interlaced and other variety of stitches and insertion of tiny mirrors within embroidery adding to them a touch of glamour upon the desired areas of the patterns and the motifs can also be seen.

This folk embroidery is done using cotton or silk thread on cotton cloth. Certain styles use silk and a satin-like material too.

Square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches are used to create intricate patterns.

Kutch work is unique in the sense that a net is woven on a cloth using thread.

Students of costume design and fashion trying their hand at Kutch embroidery and mirror work in a workshop.

FOLK DESIGN FROM KUTCH, GUJARAT

Embroidery Decorative Door Hanging Design from Kutch, Gujarat

Decorative Door Hanging from Gujarat

KATHI EMBROIDERY

In Saurashtra, the most ancient and noteworthy embroidery was done by the Kathi community.

The women of this community showed preference for black cloth embroidered in crimson, violet, golden, yellow and white with greens and blues sparingly used to balance the colors.

Heer is the most popular form of design in Kathi Embroidery. The main stitch was an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.

Gureri happens to be a popular item of Kathi Embroidery.

The two major types of Kathi Embroidery are : Aditya Fatiya Patch Work

These are mostly used in ornate wall hangings, door frames

EMBROIDERY MOTIF FROM KATHI EMBROIDERY

•It is known for its romantic motifs. •Geometrical motifs are fabricated with multicolored fabric pieces leading to patch work effect. •Beautiful prominent designs depicting figures of animals, birds, flowers and plants are delineated on the fabrics. •Motifs of leaves and little flowers adorn the inter spaces. Small mirrors are used as eyes of birds or flower centers.

AARI BHARAT EMBROIDERY

Primarily by the Muslim cobbler community in India.

The designs are of Mughal origin since the art was once patronized by them.

It is also called zari work. .

The zari thread or the metallic thread is used in this style of embroidery. It is done with colored thread as well using color gradations to make the motifs and figures highly representational.

This is done in silk or locally made satin called Gajji or on a silky satin fabric Atlash

Process A hooked needle is used in the embroidery

called the aar. The fabric is first fixed over the frame often

made of bamboo. The pattern is traced on it and the embroidery work begins.

Ari looks like a fine chain stitch. The needle is pushed through the fabric. From behind, thread is pushed into the hook. When the needle is pulled up again, it comes up with a loop. The next time, the needle goes through the loop and comes up with another loop through the previous loop. The same process is repeated. The stitches are very fine and small.

After the embroidery part is over the stitches are beaten using a wooden mallet from the top on a handheld wooden anvil placed under the fabric.

It is an art carried by men. Women are not supposed to learn this art.

AHIR BHARAT EMBROIDERY

Ahir tribes can be found in Kutch - chiefly Bhuj, Anjar and Mandvi talukas.

Their style is similar to mochi or aari embroidery.

The predominant colours are white, yellow, green, red and blue on a white, yellow or orange background.

Among the Hindu Ahir the items commonly embroidered are bags (Kothries), wall hangings or Chaklas. In the house on each side of the doorway are Sankias or Barsankias, adorned with a Toran hanging above the doorway. Sets of embroided clothing lavishly decorated with Shisha or mirror work forms an important part of their ceremonial clothing.

Patterns and Stitches Ahir bharat has a flowing style. Motifs such as peacocks,

parrots, scorpions, elephants, the milk maid and flowers, tear drop shapes etc. are used. The designs are drawn free hand and transferred on to the cloth using stencil.

The outermost detailed stitch is called 'kanta' due to its resemblance to babool tree thorn. 'Bakhiya' is a detailing stitch and 'dana' is used for filling gaps. Chain stitch called 'sankali is used for outlines filled in with a herringbone stitch called 'vana'. Mirrors, called 'abhla' are used frequently.

RABARI EMBROIDERY

The Rabaris are a wandering group of people who are recognized for their distinctive arts, particularly embroidery, mirrored mud sculpture and beadwork. Rabari Embroidery of Gujarat, India is one of the leading Handicrafts of Gujarat. Girls of Rabari community traditionally embroider skirts, veils, blouses, wall hangings, purses, pillows and Kothalo-the dowry sacks.

Women’s black skirts with creative edges embroidered, a Rabari bridegroom’s embroidered longcoat children’s heavily embroidered salwars and shirts, household decorations, bags and animal trappings are worth to look for.

The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian, blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running.

Temple motifs, women balancing pots on their heads (paniyari), mango leaves, coconuts, scorpions, camels, parrots, elephants and the tree of life are some of the beloved and auspicious motifs of Rabari embroidery.

The Mutwas, living in Banni, excel in all styles of embroidery and they work out the tiny mirrors with ease. Fine handspun cotton and quality silk is used in red, white, golden yellow, blue and black to develop patterns and booties interspersed with bird and animal motifs.

The Jats, who migrated from Baluchistan, are experts in inserting the smallest of the mirrors with utmost perfection, amidst pleasing colours and design that are usually geometric patterns.

The ladies from Lohana community in Banni create fantasy with silk thread thickly piled in deep orange, golden yellow, dark red and bright black. The bootis are inset with mirrors, making use of chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, etc.

FOLK DESIGN BY RABARI TRIBE, GUJARAT

BAVALIA

Bavalia (Known as Kutch Bharat in Saurashtra and north Gujarat) is the simplest form of needle work common to all communities.

It is also known as sada Taka. It uses cross stitch and button-hole

stitch for fixing mirrors. Only geometrical designs are

employed.

BANNI

This needle work derived its name from the semi-desert areas called Banni in the Kutch district.

Banni embroidery is locally known as "Kutch Bharat" .

Khambira, Kharek, Kodi, Kacho Bharat, Fako Bharat etc are main stitches used in this area.

The work is known for minute designs in gorgeous colours embroidered articles are closely associated with their day to day needs.

SOOF

Soof embroidery is done by Sodha Rajput and Harijan women who migrated from Pakistan during the 1971.

It is also called "Sodha Bharat".

Embroidery is done by using satin thread by inserting the needle from behind the cloth and designs come on the front side.

KATHIAWAR EMBROIDERY

Mirrors and bright colors are the specialty of Kathiawar Embroidery originating from Gujarat.

Satin and khaddar are the mostly widely used fabrics. The base fabric is usually colored in blue, yellow, red, white, turquoise or green. Silk floss and colorful cotton threads are used for the embroidery.

It even contains appliqué and beadworks in the items meant for daily use.

Cloths exhibiting the Kathiawar embroidery are used on wall panels, bags, jackets, ‘cholis’ (traditional blouses) and ‘ghagras’ (traditional skirts).

FOLK DESIGNS FROM SAURASHTRA, GUJARAT

Anshu Modi, a Kolkata-based designer, recently came up with modified Kathiawar embroidery in New Delhi, with a cool collection, in which she has vividly blended colours which show her imagination and skill. She tried to give a different interpretation. Instead of the mirror work in Kathiawar she made use of studs

SHEESHEDAR: MIRROR WORK OF GUJARAT

Mirror Work of Gujarat is similar to a ritual decoration and can be seen everywhere in the region. They are used in several articles that are a prized possession.

In Abhala, little mirror discs are set using closely worked silken threads. Generally, the mirror work is made on a dark background with motifs such as petals, flowers, creepers, etc. A majority of these motifs are inspired by ancient belief, daily life as well as rituals.

Mirror Embroidery work can also be seen in gaghras (skirts), cholis (bodices), odhnis (shawls), bags, wall hangings, bed spreads and many other ornamental pieces for home décor.

MOTI BHARAT

Bead work or Moti work is a needlecraft work that was introduced comparitevely recently in western India.

It was taken up by professional mochi craftsmen followed by the Kathi women who used bead work to replace embroidery.

The Kathi style beadwork motifs portrayed divine & human figures combined witrh flowers, cradles, racing camels, other animals & birds & were worked with translucent & semi-translucent beads set in background of white opaque beads.

The colors used were mostly orange, green, yellow, purple & red.

It is a speciality of Rajkot, Bhavnagar, Jamnagar, & Junagarh.

Decorative pieces like torans, chopals, carpets, caps & belts are some of the fine articles of beadwork.

NGOs like Kala-Raksha and Shrujan are working with the women of Kutch, helping them showcase their splendid work to a larger market and thereby making a positive change in their lives.

DESIGNERS IMPLEMENTING EMBROIDERIES OF GUJARAT IN THEIR COLLECTIONS

Hansiba's Gujarati collection makes a splash

The collection blends traditional Gujarati embroideries and prints with western cuts for a stunning collection with an international look. 

Aishwarya in Guru movie also adorned clothes worked withGujarati embroidery especiallyZari embroidery.

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