ENSEMl)LE ·RULE.5 50UTI-IERN WAVESAt the extreme left you will find one that chooses a little...

ENSEMl)LE ·RULE.5NEW YORK. - [Special Correspondence.]-

Many arc cold, but few clothen-this is afairly good description of the Riviera. Howmany confiding Americans go to the European

southland with a wardrobe inspired by posters ratherthan by real conditions I It is usually only theexperienced traveler who knows enough to take hereable and mink coats to that great refrigeratingplant of Europe where, under glacial sunshine, theflowers bloom and the inhabitants sneeze.Our own southland is more deserving of such con-

fidence. Yet even in Florida one is sometimes af-flicted by rain and cold and for this reason anywardrobe destined for our great winter resorts has tohave a dual personality. It must contain provisionfor both the bleak and the sunshiny day. It mustspend its time, like Proserpine, divided betweenwinter and summer.Now there is a classic way of preparing for the

balmy days of the south. Those who don't like tothink too much about clothes have been in the habitfor some years of getting themselves a uniform. Itconsists of a white coat of flannel, homespun, orother congenial material and of a number of crepefrocks. This .year you may operate on these fa-milial' principles and still be as correct as ever.Only, of course, you will not be individual.Undoubtedly the ensemble is one of the important

Iuetors in this yeur's Palm Beach offerings. No,1his news will not cause even the most highlyattuned nature among us to start with surprise.Ensembles hay!' always been as much a part ofthe southern landscape as have the palms themselves.Therefore the only contribution of novelty made bythis particular season is that there are bigger andbetter ensembles than ever.And such a quantity of types from which to

choose I Without going into any oppressive particu-lars let us just glance at this page. And here we donot pretend to show any of the sports costumes.This i merely a hint of the afternoon possibilitiesof the ensemble.At the extreme left you will find one that chooses

a little shoulder cape as its solution of the wrap.Both this cape and the frock are worked out inprinted chiffon in tones of maize and cornflowerblue and the latter tone is used in plain chiffon forthe scurf collar of the cape. Notice the two plaitedtiers and the fitted sleeves.Among the most startling of tiers are those pro-

vided by Patou. In the midseason offerings of thisgreat couturier one finds a certain model of blackcrepe, which is, perhaps, destined to have l\ farreaching influence upon the' spring mode. In thismodel one finds the skirt divided into five tiers, eachof which is gathered into fullness at the center front.In order to be identified with the sentiment of theskirt the bodice is seamed into widths correspondingwith those of the tier and at the front the SQuareneck line is finished by a jabot-like gathering of thematerial to echo a similar movement elsewhere. As[I final detail of interest, the narrow sleeves terminatein two tier flounces.Now a word as to the fabric selected for this first

ensemble. There is absolutely no indication that 'the pa sion for printed chiffons which we have been

'anuatp 1. 1928

50UTI-IERN

Floral printed chiffon contributes bothcape and frock of the charminq ensemble atour left.

Next, a coat of light weight cashmere indark qree« is allied with a frock of light

cherishing all these years is threatened by the presentseason. On the contrary, there are more and moreof these printed chiffons being used both for sep-arate frocks and for ensembles. In the latter typeof costume we sometimes find both frock and straightline coat executed in the printed material. Othermore reserved specimens make the frock of plainmaterial to contrast with the figured coat, and viceversa.As for evening wear, the dance frock of floral

printed chiffon which has received the recent sanc-tion of Paris has emigrated to these shores lind isabout to take out naturalization papers. There arenumerous charming examples of this type of frockfrom which to choose, but one from Miller Beeursbrought over by one of our most widely knownimporters is worthy of a special word.It shows a. charming pattern of variegated tints

TEMPTING MENUSSTAPLES.

green georgette and the two tones are recon-ciled by gold embroidery.

In the center a model of yellow chiffonshouis a contrastinq movement of fine tucksand a bow of the girdle to correspond with

WAVES

one of the scarf.Fourth, a rose colored georgette is set off

with matching lace, and last, a coat of creamcolor lace rounds out the afternoon policy ofa pale rose chiffon frock.

in which powder blue is especially accented and it isthis tint in plain chiffon which is chosen for a float-ing shoulder drapery softening the rather severebodice with its rounded neck line. 'The skirt of thismodel is true to the asymmetric ideals that stillinspire our smartest creations. That is to say, theskirt introduces circular fullness at the left side only.Now let us turn to the extreme right. Here we

find, first of all, a frock of chiffon in the palest andmost exquisite of rose tints. And what a charm-ingly conceived frock it is, too I Note the way thatminute tucks are employed on the corsage and howthe surplice closing, still so dear to the heart offashion, is carried out in the society of a narrow,twisted girdle of self material. Nor is the skirt with-out its own message of style. For does it not cor-roborate all that we have been thinking anent thevalue of irregular hem lines and diplomatic flares?

FOR

As to the coat, we see it developed in creamlace. The combination of its mesh with the palerose chiffon is most appealing, yet one need notbe absolutely controlled by this original selec-tion. The same coat would be delightful ifcarried out in one of the floral printed chiffons-unlined, of COUl'5e,and introducing the same rosetint of the gown:And how about the wool crepe double starred

in last season's fashion Baedeker? It is still-double starred I III fact, all of the light weightwoolens form a consistent part of the southernlandscape, and the afternoon or morning en-semble can do nothing more correct nowadaysthan to pose a coat of one of these materialsover a frock of georgette, flat crepe, or someother similar fabric. Often coat and frock ex-ploit two tones of the same color, and some-

5

times even such consistency is saerified to theneed of even more emphatic contrast. To have acoat of beige wool crepe combined with a gown ofsome pastel tint in green, rose, blue, or yellow-suchbehavior encounters never a frown at Palm Beach.The two tone ensemble is sketched on our page

second from the left in an attractive model inspiredby Jenny. As adapted by an American interpreterof the mode, the three-quarter coat is of dark greenin an exquisite light weight cashmere weave and ittops a frock of very light green georgette. On bothfrock and coat an embroidery of gold thread speaksonce more of the metallic touch apparent in somany southern collections. Treating of the frockseparately, consider the renewed accent placed onfour factors of our midseason modes. The surpliceclosing, the tier, the slanting line, and the wraparound skirt-each one of these is carried over tolinger in the lap of spring.In the original version of this same ensemble it is

interesting to note that Jenny employs a beautifulalpaca for the coat and flat crepe for the frock.Also that she executes the whole, not in two tones ofgreen, but in a dialogue of blues. As for the selec-tion of coat material, there is no gainsaying the factthat alpaca is quite as well endowed with lives as acertain domestic pet and that many seasons havenot been able to worry out even one of thoseexistences.In speaking of the ensemble I always seem to

take a high moral tone worthy of Epictetus orGeorge Eliot. I always remind you that it is themost extravagant way of dressing that any womancan possibly choose. Consequently I shall be for-bearing just now and merely suggest that one care-fully selected coat will do its duty by any numberof little crepe and chiffon frocks.Here on the page we are showing you two delight-

ful models of such frocks to go with a promiscuousminded wrap. In the center a pale yellow chiffonis treated to a contrast of fine tucks and to a scarfcollar tying in a voluminous bow to correspondwith a bow formed by the girdle. And fourth fromthe lef't you will see a charming rose coloredgeorgette set off with matching lace.

[Collyr!"ht: 1928: By The Chicago Tribune.)

Other views of today's models.

tyJoni'&din¢nSimplest Rice PuJJitr.g.

THE formula for the simplest rice pudding may contain the fol-lowing ingredients and no more: Four cups of milk and fourtablespoons of rice. Wash the rice well, pour boiling waterover it and let it stand five minutes. Drain well, put in but-

tered baking dish, add milk, put in 300 degree oven and cook threehours. When the top puffs up-do not allow it to push up like thetop of a balloon-and browns slightly, stir that top in, and do thisas often as it puffs up. It may be nearly an hour before it is neces-sary to do it for the first time. The ideal way to cook this pud-ding is in such a way that at no time will the oven be hot enoughto bake a dark ring on the baking dish. A light brown ringforming on the baking dish as the milk evaporates and is con-densed may be stirred in when the puffed up top is, and the twotogether give the pudding a rich and pleasant flavor which maymake sweetening unnecessary.

After the first hour it may be best to stir these brown pattsin twice an hour. At the end the pudding should have a custard-like top and be palatable either hot or cold. It can be chilled andserved with cream which is lightly sweetened and cold. It mayseem not unlike ice cream. Add no more than four tablespoonsof sweetening with one-half teaspoon of salt near the end of thecooking. At the same time you may add a little nutmeg.

H arieot. Stew.The following is what we may call a one dish meal. Pick over

and wash one cup of navy beans, and pour one cup of almost boil-ing water over them. Let them stand until this water is absorbed,then add four more cups of water, or with the most careful cookingthree more will do. Put these over the slowest fire with no covetand bring slowly to the simmering point. Then cover and simmerfor two or three hours until they are as tender as possible.

Prepare one pound of good lamb stew meat and saute thepieces in a little of the lamb fat tried out in trimming the piece ofmeat. Be sure to skin each piece of the stew meat. After thepieces have been carefully browned in the fat on all sides, add tothe kettle in which they are sauted two sliced onions, two carrotssliced and any other seasonings you like. Dried celery leaves aregood. Cover the mixture with cold water, bring to a boiling pointand simmer one hour, when the beans should be cooked and readyto add to it. Cook the combination gently for one-half hour, Someleaf lettuce cut chiffonade fashion may be added five or ten minutesbefore the stew is served. Little disks of the fine cut leaf lettucestems give a more finished appearance to such a stew and niayrequire a few minutes more of cooking- than the leaves cut fine do.

THE \VEE~RICE is one of the most fascinating staples of the world.

Rudyard Kipling makes it fascinating in many of his storiesof India. The East Indian curry, as everybody knows, is ~.largely rice. In general, in the literature of the Oriental

people, there are many exalted statements about the preciousnessof rice. And the Occident, too, knows its worth, whether in theNew England" edging" for hash, or in grand ring molds.

The Germans probably make the best rice puddings in theworld. Rice is an indispensable member of a couple in some Italiandishes such as the risotto, while the French find ris a great stand-by and have made famous their riz au lait, which is a sheet of.pudding like that we make for the" poor man."

Wheat, for good reasons, seems to be one of the most vitalstaples in the world, although the beauty of plain wheat may loseits force among peoples who are only aware of foods manufac-tured from it.

Scotland has its oatmeal and barley and that country has giventhese two enough of local color to set up a whole regiment offoods.

In America we have the corn, the Indian corn, the corn of poneand Johnny cake, and Boston brown bread (,brown bread in Eu-

\ rope means some dark, whole grained bread without any cornmealin it), and mush, and hominy and hominy grits. .

Dried fruits, dried peas and beans (,haricots), the Italianpastes. and the items housed in the old time cellar storerooms arealso soundly staple. And there is also annual permanence in thesupplementary items like dried celery leaves, dried parsley, driedpeppers. dried sage and thyme, and whatever other such season-ings one has been brought up to use-perhaps young sassafrasleaves dried and powdered, and the sassafras bark for what itmay be good for in beverages and sweets.

And considering our staples as furnishing a great immediatehuman need, we must say that the rice, the wheat, the oat, thebarley, and even the beans and peas and lentils (for diabetics)yield that food that humans need every moment in order that, likethe clock, they may merely " go." These are the quantity fuelfoods, serving always with the concentrated fats-that first givethe flame-which we must regularly and "staplely" supply tothese humpty-dumpty bodies of ours if they are not to get a fallnor any inner bruising the winter through.

Alas, these foods do not for the most part lend themselves tosketchy cookery-to yield their best and greatest returns I Withskilled cookery the appetite may get from them great satisfaction,and when it does the body gets the greater service.

MONDAY TUESDAYBreakfast

Orange JuiceWhite Cornmeal Mush

Toa'st JamCoffee

LuncheonLima Bean Stew Melba Toast

Dessert Salad Waters. H'ot Beverage

DinnerCabbage Relish

Cream or Celery SoupBroiled Ham

Baked Sweet PotatoesApple Frlttpr8 Endive Salad

Rtce PuddingCoffee

BreakfastBlack Figs StewedPrepared CerealTORst Honey

CoffeeLuncheon

Kidney Beans With RiceNut Bread Jelly Cream Cheese

BeverageDinner

Mixed OlivesBean Soup

Pork Chops Baked Idaho PotatoesHashed BeetsLettuce Salad

Lemon Cream PieCoffee

WEDNESDAYBreakfast

Baked AppleBarley Porridge

Toast MarmaladeCoffee

L1mcheonBaked Beans, Boston Brown Bread

Cooked Vegetable SaladFrench Dressing

Cookies CheeseDinner

Crisp Celery HeartsJulienne Soup

ROIl8t Lamb Mashed PotatoesMint Jelly

Baked Carrot and EggplantCasaba Melon Salad

Tapioca Fruit PUddingCoffee

-.._-_ ....•.............--_ ..._ .•.... -.. _ .., ...,. _ .. .- ....~'---

.-._--_ •...•..•._._ ..... "'- ~.... ._'-_ ....._ ..~~~-~

(

THURSDAYBreakfast

Sliced BananasOatmeal PorridgeToast Honey

CoffeeLuncheon

Haricot StewSpoon Bread

FruitBeverageDinnerRadishes

Mutton BrothMinute Steak Delmonico Potatoes

White Turnips ButteredApple Salad

Pumpkin Pie CheeseCoffee

FRIDAYBreakfastFruit

Boiled Eggs Hot MuffinsMarmalade

CoffeeLuncheon

Broiled Red HerringStuffed Potatoes in Shell

Orange SaladBeverageDinner

Mixed RelishesSplit Pea Soup

Baked Pike Boiled PotatoesStewed Green Peppers

Cucumber SaladApple Pie Herkimer Cheese

Coffee

BreakfastTangerine Sections

Big HotnlnyToast Jelly

CoffeeLuncheon

Baked Thurlnger SausagesPan Fried Potatoes

Apple Sauce Ginger Snaps CheeseBeverageDinner

Cucumber RelishPotato Soup

Pot Roast ot BeetBrowned Potatoes

Spiced Prunes Fried ParsnipsDinner SaladChocolate Pie

Col'fee

SATURDAY SUNDAYBreakfast

Sliced OrangesSour Cream Waffles, Sirup

CorteeLuncheon

Salted Nuts Curled CeleryCream or Mushroom Soup

Roast Capon. Onion DressingNew Potatoes In Cream

Cranberry JellyWinter Fruit SaladCharlotte RU8s&

Deml·TasseSupper

Yellow Cornmeal Mush and MilkCookies Cheese

Beverage[C'opyrlrht' 19::8. 11:< The Chlooj{o TrllluTle 1,